Winecurrent

September 4, 2010 Vintages Release

This Vintages Release catalogue begins with a feature on the Southern Rhône and wines from the fabulous 2007 vintage followed by a feature on wines from British Columbia, then followed by the Main Release. The winecurrent-reviewed wines are in the order of the above format.

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
This ‘Wine Club’ may be for you – A premium Niagara winery, Tawse, introduces a compelling concept—purchase four cases per annum receiving various ‘perks’. The wines are delivered to your door every three months. They’re limited production, available ONLY to wine club members. Three of these exclusive, artisan wines are reviewed far below in the ‘New in Ontario Wineries’ section. Read more…
All LCBO stores will be closed on Labour Day, Monday, September 6 and resume business on Tuesday, September 7. Many LCBO stores in cottage and resort areas will stay open until 9:00 p.m. on Friday, September 3. All LCBO stores will observe their normal business hours on Saturday, September 4 and Sunday, September 5.
  • Southern Rhône Feature – Even in exceptional vintages, wines vary greatly in quality and value—there are a number of outstanding wines reviewed.
  • Finding Waldo – there’s a 4½ star Sauvignon Blanc in the ‘New in Ontario Wineries’ section that’ll blow you away.
  • Vic picks six ‘value-for-your-money’ wines under $16:
  1. Cuvée du Comte Côtes du Rhône 2007 $15.95
  2. Thorn-Clarke ‘Terra Barossa’ Shiraz 2008 $15.95
  3. Luc Pirlet ‘Les Barriques’ Viognier ‘Reserve’ 2008 $11.95
  4. Perrin & Fils ‘Réserve’ Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2009 $14.95
  5. Château des Charmes ‘Generation Seven – White’ 2009 $13.95
  6. Coyote’s Run Estate Winery ‘5-Mile’ 2009 $13.95

Southern Rhône Feature

****1/2 drink now
Cuvée du Comte Côtes du Rhône 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône $15.95 (178822) 13.5% alcohol

This is full of flavour and value packed. An expressive nose of smoke, oak and mixed spice opens this dark and earthy, nicely textured gem. There’s a load of flavours on the palate with black plum and juicy ripe mulberry to the fore. It’s medium bodied and sports a powerful fruit-laden aftertaste with dark berry fruit mingling with exotic spice lightly dusted with ripe tannin. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Perrin & Fils ‘Peyre Blanche’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages Cairanne 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages Cairanne $17.95 (650960) 13.5% alcohol
Look for purity of fruit and a sense of purpose in this well-structured red blend. There’s a lovely bouquet of forest floor and spice box accompanied by black licorice and black berry. A lovely medium-bodied wine that really delivers on flavour with a focused stream of succulent, ripe mulberry and racy red cherry throughout. The lingering dry finish is underpinned by supple tannin. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Château Saint Maurice ‘Les Grès Laudun’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $14.95 (177576) 14.8% alcohol
A substantial, deeply hued Rhône blend, this is a great value wine. It offers an intriguing nose of spice box, ripe red and black fruits, as well as some subtle floral and menthol notes. Dry, it has some hefty tannin and vibrant acidity framing the juicy fruit flavours. A wine with very appealing character and texture, it can be cellared or served with strongly-flavoured meat dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Promenade des Princes Côtes du Rhône-Villages Plan de Dieu 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages Plan de Dieu $12.95 (175745) 14.0% alcohol
Here’s a straightforward bistro-styled wine that matches up perfectly with pasta in tomato-based sauce, meat-laden pizza, gourmet sausage or burgers. Lively savoury spice and cherry cordial on the nose, there’s a tangy river of pie cherry and kirsch liqueur on the palate and racy, dry finish. (Vic Harradine)

*** drink now
Domaine de l’Echevin Côtes du Rhône-Villages Saint Maurice 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages Saint Maurice $16.95 (175711) 14.0% alcohol
Tangy, refreshing and dishing out a racy spine of acidity throughout, it opens with a quiet nose of cherry and spice aromas. The flavours on the palate offer ripe, racy cranberry moderated by a ladleful of dark berry fruit. The mid-length finish is dry and lively. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine Roche-Audran Côtes du Rhône-Villages Visan 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages Visan $15.95 (177667) 14.0% alcohol
There’s fair value in this long-finishing, generously textured red blend—60% Grenache, 40% Syrah. Cedar and spice-infused black berry aromas abound on the nose while the palate’s treated to a flavourful wash of dark berry fruit and kirsch liqueur. Mid weight and nicely textured, the lengthy finish is balanced and fruit forward. Good on its own it’s particularly well suited to grilled and smoked back ribs. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Pierre Amadieu ‘Romane Machotte’ Gigondas 2007
AOC Gigondas $22.95 (017400) 14.5% alcohol
The price-quality ratio skews in your favour while the alluring and lifted nose displays a cornucopia of aromas—mixed spice and savoury herbs, red licorice, Ribena and graphite among them. Hefty and nicely textured, it rolls over the palate in flavourful waves—boysenbery, spice-infused black plum and black juicy cherry. It’s balanced with moderating acidity while the ripe supple tannin on the lengthy finish adds structure. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 cellar
Vignerons de Gigondas ‘La Font ds Grières’ Gigondas 2007
AOC Gigondas $21.95 (175729) 15.0% alcohol
Garrigue, nuances of toast and black plum aromas on the nose, this gorgeous cellar dweller coats the palate with tannin-laced flavours of ripe mulberry, succulent black Bing cherry and bramble berry. It’s full bodied, quite generously textured and sports a fruit-forward finish framed by good acidity and underpinned by a solid tannin structure. Drink 2015 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Les Hauts du Castellas Vacqueyras 2007
AOC Vacqueyras $18.95 (177634) 14.0% alcohol
Here’s another great value from the Rhône. A blend of traditional grapes, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, it has powerful aromas of ripe, dried cherries, garrigue and spice. It’s medium bodied with a creamy texture, fine-grained tannin and focused fruitiness—bramble pie comes to mind—with notes of spice box, herbs and black pepper which carry through the persistent finish. A candidate for short-term cellaring, you may want a bottle or two to enjoy this fall. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine du Haut des Terres Blanches Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $36.95 (177618) 15.0% alcohol
Not for the faint of heart, this full-bodied behomoth is bold and ageworthy. The funky nose delivers a lifted array of aromas—woodsmoke, garrigue, earthiness and spice-infused dark berry fruit. It’s well balanced with good acidity and perceptible, acceptable tannin delivering a persistent wash of palate-coating flavour—black currant, dark juicy cherry and sweet bramble berry. The lengthy aftertaste lingers. Pair with a substantial full-flavoured dish like osso bucco or cassoulet—now to 2018. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Perrin & Fils ‘Les Sinards’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $19.95 (005975) 375 mL 14.5% alcohol
Predominantly Grenache, as is the entire C-d-P appellation, this is an expressive, structured wine expressing the earthy, sweet dark fruit and spicy flavours commonly found in well-made reds from here. The nose of sweet ripe fruit and spice provides segue to balanced flavours on the palate with succulent, almost jammy, black currant and spice-infiused black plum framed by moderating acidity and underpinned by ripe fine-grained tannin. It finishes in a blaze of glory with a lingering aftertaste of dark chocolate, black licorice, hints of earthiness and dark berry fruit. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $32.95 (983650) 14.5% alcohol
Tantalizing and appealing aromas of ripe, spicy berries, licorice and roses ascend from the glass. Full bodied, the wine has a mouth-filling and silky texture with ripe fruit flavours that bathe the palate along with velvety tannins and fine acidity. The extended finish displays lingering notes of dark chocolate and toast. Wonderful now, it can cellar for a decade or more—a great choice. (Susan Desjardins)

British Columbia Feature

***1/2 cellar
CedarCreek Estate Cabernet/Merlot 2007
VQA Okanagan Valley $23.95 (175604) 13.9% alcohol
This is a blend that’s predominantly the two Cabernets plus Merlot supported by an assortment of others. Rich—in flavour and price, it’s $5 more than at the winery—concentrated and darkly coloured in the glass, this delivers an earthy tannic wine that’s nicely balanced with dark berry fruit flavour and racy pie cherry. It ratchets up a notch poured with rare-grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar two glasses
Sandhill ‘Small Lots One’ 2007
VQA Okanagan Valley $34.95 (186536) 14.0% alcohol
Deeply hued, this is a fragrant blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Malbec aged in French and American oak for 20 months. It displays enticing complex aromas of red and black fruit, tobacco, toast, spice and spring flowers. Dry, medium-full bodied, nicely balanced and structured, the wine has fine tannin and bright acidity framing complex flavours of fruit, char, sweet herbs and spice that play through the extended finish. A real gem that Vic and I both think is worth the investment and… it’s winery, cellar door priced. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Sandhill ‘Small Lots’ Viognier 2009
VQA Okanagan Valley $24.95 (126862) 14.9% alcohol
Hats off to winemaker Howard Soon for crafting this astounding golden gem from the fruit of the Osprey Ridge Vineyard. There are knock-your-socks-off aromas of captivating tropical fruit—imagine roasted pineapple and spicy peach. It’s fabulous on the palate—full bodied, luscious showcasing ripe stone and tropical fruits with a hint of spice. The rich sweet fruit is nicely balanced with a crisp spine of acidity. Don’t miss out! And, when you open a bottle, try it with candied smoked salmon. (Susan Desjardins)

The Main Release

Fortified

**** drink now
C. da Silva LBV Port 2004
DOC Douro $17.95 (169755) 20.0% alcohol
The complex nose displays a harmonious range of aromas—sweet fruit, nuts, caramel, spice and cocoa. Richly textured and substantial, the flavours of dried fruit, cherries ‘n chocolate and toffee are offset with balancing acidity. Notes of spice and white pepper underlie the fruit on a lingering finish. A very nice value—enjoy with chocolate-based desserts. (Susan Desjardins)

Dessert

***** drink now
Perrin & Fils ‘Muscat de Beaumes de Venise’ 2007 

AOC Beaumes de Venise $16.95 (004713) 375 mL 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent November 21, 2009 @ $16.95) If you like your dessert/sweet wines delicate and elegantly flavoured and textured, this great-value offering is just the ticket. Lychee, exotic spice and orange rind on the nose, the palate is gently washed with sweet succulent flavours of peel marmalade, candied citrus and tropical fruit. It’s well balanced finishing with a lip-smacking underpinning of moderating citrus acidity. Paired perfectly with fruit flan, Bavarian apple torte or lemon cheesecake. (Vic Harradine)

Champagne

**** drink or cellar
J. Lassale ‘Préférence’ Brut Champagne Non-Vintage 

AOC Champagne $42.95 (027615) 12.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent December 5, 2009 @ $48.95) This bolts out of the gate with alluring aromas of biscuit, brioche, and boatloads of fine-bead bubbles. It’s crisp and refreshing in the mouth sporting good weight and a nice texture delivering tree fruit, zesty citrus and Granny Smith apple right through the mouth-watering finish. It’s lovely as a welcoming wine, an aperitif or paired with appetizers and lighter mains. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Taittinger Brut Réserve Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $52.95 (814723) 12.5% alcohol
From one of the great Grand Marque Champagne houses—only 24 members—this is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. Honeyed pear and green apple on the nose, it showcases a gorgeous attack of crisp refreshing flavours—white grapefruit, racy lemon and ripe white peach—carried along on an endless stream of fine-bead bubbles. The refreshing aftertaste is lengthy and spice-infused. It delivers excellent value. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling

**** drink now
Santa Margherita Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Brut Sparkling Wine Non-Vintage

DOC Prosecco di Valdobbiadene $17.95 (687582) 11.5% alcohol

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent March 20, 2010 @ $17.95) Mineral and floral on the nose this dishes out a surprisingly generous texture and more flavour and structure than the breeding and price would suggest—this is good value. The mousse is abundant and infused with good texture and flavour—tangy white grapefruit, red currant and lemon chiffon pie. Serve to guests as they arrive and pair with stand-around sea food appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

**** drink now
Flat Rock Cellars Riesling 2008
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $16.95 (43281) 11.0% alcohol
Straw in color and bright, the aromas of this wine are reminiscent of orchard fruit with a kick of lime and an underlying minerality. It’s light-medium bodied with a silky texture and bright flavours of tree fruit and zesty lemon-lime. Refreshing and crisp, it’s nicely balanced and offers a delightful overall experience. Pour a little more, please. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Huff Estates ‘South Bay Vineyards’ Chardonnay 2007 

VQA Prince Edward County $29.95 13.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent March 6, 2010 @ $29.95) Barrel fermented and aged fourteen months in French oak, this is a golden-coloured wine with lifted aromas and flavours of sweet toasty oak, vanilla, ripe tree fruits and sweet citrus—consistent throughout. The texture is round and full, matched with a refreshing seam of acidity. Toasty oak lingers on the extended finish. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Malivoire ‘Musqué Spritz’ 2009
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (189670) 9.0% alcohol
This light-on-its-feet spritzy aperitif-styled white delivers a delicately flavoured ripple of tropical fruit and nectarine mingling with sweet succulent pear and apple. It’s crisp and refreshing on the finish. Pour with lighter-styled appetizers or sip on its own relaxing before the meal. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

*** drink now
Big Yellow Cab Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Mendocino County $17.95 (035014) 13.5% alcohol
Straightforward and bistro-styled, this opens with a fragrant nose of smoky earthy tones mingling with mint-infused dark fruit. There are fruit-forward, mouth-filling flavours of dark berry fruit and cherry that persist through the mid-length, balanced finish. Pairs nicely with gourmet grilled sausage or backyard barbecued burgers. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Ironstone Reserve ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2008
Lodi $29.95 (659946) 14.5% alcohol
Sweet and savoury spice and dark berry aromas on the nose, this dishes up a mid-weight, well-textured Zin. The flavours of dark berry fruit and cherry are infused with generous dollops of savoury herb, spice and crisp acidity. The mid-length aftertaste replays the flavours of the palate. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Irony Merlot 2008
Napa Valley $19.95 (183186) 14.5% alcohol
A very approachable and balanced wine, this Merlot has appealing cherry berry aromas with a whiff of vanilla and toast. There are loads of ripe spicy fruit, silky tannins and just the right balance of acidity. It’s round and richly textured with attractive toasty notes on the lingering finish. A great match for pork in red wine sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

****drink or cellar
George Wyndham ‘Founder’s Reserve’ Shiraz 2005 

South Australia $23.95 (107904) 14.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent August 15, 2009 @ $22.95) A much be-medaled wine, it’s dark and brooding in the glass with whiffs of eucalyptus and mixed spice emanating from the quiet nose. This is full bodied, fully textured and mid weight delivering a solid core of ripe fruit flavour—ripe black currant and sweet bramble berry—melding nicely with nuances of toasty oak and black licorice. It finishes medium length and nicely balanced. Pour alongside rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Mount Langi Ghiran ‘Billi Billi’ Shiraz 2005
Victoria $16.95 (719575) 14.0% alcohol
Well paced and well priced, this structured and flavourful red delivers a tangy mouthful of spice-infused red cherry and racy cranberry flavour mingling with black berry and earthy tones. It’s mid weight, nicely textured sporting a lengthy, balanced, dry refreshing aftertaste. Moves up a step poured alongside pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Thorn-Clarke ‘Terra Barossa Cuvée’ 2007 

Barossa Valley, South Australia $15.95 (684357) 14.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent November 7, 2009 @ $14.95) As the Vintages catalogue suggests, there’s good value here. The quiet nose offers subtle aromas of forest floor and spice while the mouth-coating flavours—cassis, mulberry and Montmorency cherry—are delivered on a beautifully textured persistent wash. It’s mid weight with a lengthy finish of moderating acidity delivered through flavours of cranberry and pomegranate melding with a firm tannin structure. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Thorn-Clarke ‘Terra Barossa’ Shiraz 2008
Barossa, South Australia $15.95 (595306) 15.0% alcohol
Displaying its Barossa Valley provenance, this rich and concentrated Shiraz deserves your attention. The price-quality scale tips well in your favour; pick up a few. Beautifully balanced flavours—this no fruit bomb—of racy red pie cherry and tangy red currant meld seamlessly with rich succulent dark berry fruit. The lingering aftertaste delivers an endless stream of more of the same. Perfect sipped on its own or paired with grilled lamb chops. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Yarraman Shiraz 2006
Hunter Valley $21.95 (178665) 15.0% alcohol
Powerful and persistent, this is pretty bold, coming from the Hunter. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and rich and concentrated with a dark purple hue in the glass. Look for spicy, earthy dark berry fruit aromas on the lifted nose. Flavours abound with black currant, black bramble berry and rich sweet kirsch liqueur to the fore. The lengthy succulent and fruit-forward finish is warm and spicy. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Kim Crawford ‘SP Boyszone’ Pinot Gris 2007 

Marlborough, South Island $24.95 (036954) 13% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent May 23, 2009 @ $25.95) The doyen of Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc tries his hand with this spicy Pinot Gris. SP stands for ‘Small Parcels’ of unique hand-crafted fruit. There’s a quiet nose of pit fruit and rosewater—small amounts of Gewürztraminer and Riesling blended—and a lovely expression of fresh fruit flavour on the palate with honeydew melon, lemony citrus and spiced yellow plum. Light on its feet, it has good acidity and balance, finishing crisp and clean. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Sileni Estates ‘Cellar Selection’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009 

Marlborough, South Island $15.95 (662882) 12.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent May 15, 2010 @ $15.95) Focused and full of tang, you’ll discover grassy herbaceous aromas mingling with lemongrass and nuances of lemony tones. There’s a great spine of citrus acidity running through this light-bodied, delicately textured quaffer with white grapefruit and gooseberry flavour to the fore. The aftertaste lingers crisp and refreshing with oodles of nerve and verve. Pair with freshly shucked oysters. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

**** drink now
Astrolabe Pinot Noir 2008
Marlborough $24.95 (179200) 13.5% alcohol
Astrolabe makes an outstanding Sauvignon Blanc and they’ve brought the same care and expertise to this Pinot Noir. Intricate aromas—red berry, plum, floral, herbs and spice—replay in the flavours of this silky, medium-bodied wine. Nicely textured, it has a lengthy fruity finish with light spicy notes. Not to be missed! (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Steve Bird ‘big barrel’ Pinot Noir 2008 

Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand (17870) $26.95 13.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent May 15, 2010 @ $25.95) The ‘big barrel’ refers to the older 900 litre barrels, a.k.a. tonneaux, used in fermenting and ageing this wine—imparting less tannin. Alluring aromas abound with earthy tones and red berry fruit predominant. It’s deftly balanced, nicely textured and blossoms with rich fruit on the palate and lingering aftertaste—red currant, red cherry and savoury juicy black plum. There are hints of coffee on the dry refreshing finish. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Kuhlmann-Platz Hunawihr Gewürztraminer 2008
AOC Alsace $17.95 (169474) 13.0% alcohol
Alluring and aromatic, there are perfumed rosewater and exotic spice aromas on the nose. Overall, it’s a well-crafted, gorgeous Gewürztraminer. Slightly off-dry and brimming with flavour—yellow peach, lychee and tropical fruit—it’s mid weight, generously textured with an über-long sweet and tang aftertaste. Serve well chilled as an aperitif or as the perfect foil to spicy Asian cuisine—pad Thai or tandoori chicken and naan. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Bouchard Pére et Fils ‘Meursault les Clous’ 2007
AOC Burgundy $44.95 (661322) 13.0% alcohol
Bright aromas of stone fruits, citrus and light toasted nuts waft from the glass of this fine wine. Medium bodied, it has a lush texture and beautiful balance. Bright citrus fruit flows across the palate on a fine seam of acidity, finishing with a crisp flourish. Serve with herbed roasted chicken or poached salmon in a cream sauce or cellar for 3-5 years. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Luc Pirlet ‘Les Barriques’ Viognier ‘Reserve’ 2008
Vins de Pays d’Oc $11.95 (177675) 13.0% alcohol
This is rock-solid 4 stars with the price-quality ratio skewed well in your favour; don’t hesitate to arrive early to pick up a handful. Floral and spice on the nose the palate’s treated to a wave of sweet and succulent ripe fruit—honeyed pear and mango—moderated by a crisp refreshing citrus finish coupled with a tell-tale Viognier bite. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Perrin & Fils ‘Réserve’ Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2009
AOC Côtes du Rhône $14.95 (499509) 13.0% alcohol
Displaying subtle aromas—ripe stone fruit and floral notes—this medium-bodied wine is a great value. A blend of the classic white grapes of the Rhône, it’s dry, fresh and balanced with a lovely texture. Crisp fruit flavours of Golden Delicious apple, peaches and citrus linger on the refreshing finish. Buy a few bottles of this versatile wine. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Marziano Abbona ‘Terlo Ravera’ Barolo 2005
DOCG Barolo $36.95 (067918) 14.0% alcohol
Rich and powerful, this opens with a fragrant nose of mocha, spice box and floral aromas. Showcasing structure and great purity of fruit, the bold palate-coating flavours arrive in endless waves with sweet cassis, succulent mulberry and juicy black plum predominant. It’s medium-full bodied with a lovely texture and ripe supple tannin. The mid-length finish is fruity and balanced. Drink now, after a three-hour decant, and on to 2018. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Viticcio ‘i Greppi Greppicante’ Bolgheri 2007
DOC Bolgheri $23.95 (170381) 13.0% alcohol
A blend of the two Cabernets and Merlot, the wine is intensely coloured and intensely aromatic—dark fruit, toast and licorice—this is a full-bodied dry wine with soft tannin and fresh acidity. Red and black berry flavours, spice and a trace of char tease the palate and linger on the finish. Quite elegant. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Antiche Terre Amarone della Valpolicella 2007
DOCG Amarone della Valpolicella $32.95 (177733) 14.5% alcohol
Produced in the traditional fashion with naturally dried grapes, this wine was aged in new French oak. Richly aromatic, it’s full bodied with silky tannins, fine acidity and a lovely velvety texture. Complex and flavourful, there are nuances of toast, caramel and cocoa complementing the rich fruitiness. Beautifully balanced and composed, it’s a candidate for the cellar, but why wait? Decant three hours and pour with rare-grilled rib-eye. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Zenato ‘Cormi’ Merlot/Corvina 2006 

IGT Veneto $17.95 (108282) 13.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent May 2, 2009 @ $19.95) This has a gorgeous nose of ripe black berry and raisined fruit with dark chocolate, savoury spice and mint nuances. The palate is juicy with good acidity and sufficient tannin to balance the fruit. The flavours linger nicely on this well-made blend. With its pleasing medium body, it’ll be just the thing for grilled ribs and burgers. (Mark Tandan)

Spain: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Torres ‘Celeste’ 2006
DOC Ribero del Duero $19.95 (672691) 14.5% alcohol
Deep ruby with violet notes, this Tempranillo has layers of aromas and flavours—black berries, herbs, pepper and toast. Medium-full bodied and dry, it’s quite structured with firm tannin and clean acidity matched to full-flavoured fruit. There’s a toasty note on the persistent dry finish. A great partner for substantial meat-based dishes like hearty stew, it’s also a candidate for short-term cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Vintages

**** drink now
Kilikanoon ‘Killerman’s Run’ Shiraz 2008
South Australia $19.95 (925453) 14.5% alcohol
Powerful, bold and concentrated, this is a rich and luscious crowd pleaser. Aromas and flavours abound in this dark purple opaque Aussie red with mixed spice, black pepper and a gusher of dark berry fruit, minty black cherry and kirsch liqueur among them. It’s medium-full bodied with a generous mouth feel and a balanced, lingering aftertaste. It’s also a Vintages Essentials product, always available in select stores. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Rodney Strong ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir 2008
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, California $24.95 (954834) 14.4% alcohol
From the premiere California Pinot Noir region, this reflects its provenance with pride. It’s well balanced, mouth-watering delicious and chockfull of flavour—savoury dark berry fruit, cassis and spice-infused cherry. Mid weight with a lovely mouth feel, the spicy aftertaste lingers. A Vintages Essentials wine, its mandate is to be ‘always available’ in select stores. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Tawse Winery ‘Quarry Road Vineyard’ Riesling 2009
VQA Twenty Mile Creek $21.95 (198853) 10.5% alcohol
This is a must-taste for Riesling aficionados and wine lovers alike. It’s an intensely flavoured off-dry beauty with aromas of lime margarita, minerality and crisp pear. There’s a monster gusher of well-balanced flavour with racy lime, ripe pineapple and nuances of mineral and yellow plum while the minutes-long aftertaste is monumental. It’s versatile with a variety of foods—spicy Asian, pan-seared prawns and scallops, steamed mussels or lobster. Only available in 18 stores across the province, check www.lcbo.com for the store nearest you. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

***1/2 drink now
Château des Charmes ‘Generation Seven – Red’ 2009
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $13.95 (198036) 13.0% alcohol
Recognizing the Bosc family generations born into wine, this red blend—the two Cabernets, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Gamay Noir—opens with a lifted nose of mixed spice, savoury-infused dark berry fruit and hints of toasty notes. It’s rich and succulent with sweet berry fruit, tangy pie cherry and campfire smoke carried along by good weight and a generous mouth feel. It finishes mid length and pours well with smoked and grilled back ribs. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Château des Charmes ‘Generation Seven – White’ 2009
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $13.95 (197988) 13.0% alcohol
Referencing the Bosc family’s proud wine heritage (with three generations in Niagara), this aromatic blend—Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer—delivers gentle aromas of mineral, lychee and tropical fruit plus great value. It’s mid weight, nicely textured, tangy and bursting with flavour—lime, white grapefruit and white peach. It’s crisp and refreshing with deft balance and a lip-smacking finish. Lovely on its own, pour confidently with cheese tortellini in pesto sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Coyote’s Run Estate Winery ‘5-Mile’ 2009 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 11.5% alcohol 

Lip-smacking good and value-packed, this delivers a lovely mouthful of delicious flavour with lemon-lime tang and succulent white peach predominant. It’s a blend of Riesling, Pinot Blanc and Gewürztraminer showcasing a silky mouth feel and generous texture. The aftertaste is a delightful balance of ripe, sweet peach and racy citrus. It’s crisp and refreshing—made to be sipped outdoors and it works well with lighter cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Santa Carolina Shiraz 2009
DO Valle Central, Chile $9.00 (644062) 13.5% alcohol
Berry fruit and mixed spice box aromas drift from this easy-going, well-priced red. It showers a tangy splash of pie cherry and black currant flavour on the palate carried along with a nicely textured mouth feel and good moderating acidity. The mid-length finish is dry and lip-smacking pleasant. Ratchets up a notch poured with spicy barbecued back ribs. (Vic Harradine)

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Tilia Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Mendoza, Argentina $13.00 (163428) 13.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of exotic spice and field berry fruit provide segue to a rich and luscious fusion of flavour—dark Bing cherry, juicy black berry and nuances of black licorice. It’s generously textured with a long fruit-forward aftertaste. Sipping beautifully on its own, it has the structure to pair well with grilled red meat—burgers or steak. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

****1/2 drink now
Grange of Prince Edward ‘Fumé Blanc – Single Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009
VQA Prince Edward County $24.95 12.5% alcohol
Bursting with alluring aromas and deftly balanced flavour, this low-yield, limited-production gem was aged briefly in old French oak and is certainly special. White peach, nectarine and tropical fruit aromas are precursors to a glorious wash of delectable flavours—tangy key lime, gooseberry and underlying nuances of minerality. It’s mid weight and beautifully textured dishing out a crisp, refreshing and lingering aftertaste of passion fruit and spice-infused citrus. Less than 180 dozen produced, order yours now for office or home delivery by the case of 6 from the Grange. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Huff Estates ‘Reserve’ Gamay 2008

VQA Ontario $24.95 12.8% alcohol
Tangy and spice-laden, this serves up a delectably well-balanced mouthful of flavour with pie cherry, black currant and red currant galore that’s preceded by aromas of toasty oak and char. Medium bodied and nicely textured, the racy finish delivers a persistent stream of cranberry and spice-infused strawberry mingling with supple tannin. This pours perfectly with pasta in tomato-based sauce or spicy meat-laden pizza. Purchase for daily office or home delivery, no minimum, free delivery for a case of 12 or more (single wine or mixed), from Huff Estates. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar
Tawse Winery ‘David’s Block Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc 2007
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $47.95 13.5% alcohol
There were less than 70 cases produced and it’s available only to Wine Club members. Read more... The graphite, mineral and gamy aromas on the nose provide segue to a glorious rush of tangy, well-defined, deftly balanced, rich luscious flavours with juicy, succulent black Bing cherry and racy black currant framed by moderating acidity and underpinned by ripe supple tannin. This is structured, mid weight and nicely textured with a well-balanced, delectable aftertaste of dark fruit tang and sprigs of sweet herbs. (Vic Harradine)

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Tawse Winery ‘Hughes Vineyard’ Merlot 2007
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $44.95 13.5% alcohol
Toast, mixed dark berry fruit and cherry on the nose, this dishes up a delightfully rich mouthful of well-balanced tangy fruit. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and bolstered by ripe, highly polished tannin. Flavours of cassis and black plum mingle with spice-infused black juicy Bing cherry on the palate and dry racy finish. The aftertaste is lengthy layering on a substantial dollop of tangy red pie cherry. This had limited production—only 70 cases—and is exclusive to Wine Club members… Read more... (Vic Harradine)

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Tawse Winery Pinot Gris 2009
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $24.95 13.5% alcohol
This is light-peach coloured, hand made and artisanal—only 55 cases made. Delightful aromas of mineral-infused orchard fruit and nuances of tropical fruit can be coaxed from the subtle nose before a fully textured wave of flavour washes the palate with ripe pear, white peach and a lovely stream of crisp citrus acidity. It’s deftly balanced with a lengthy refreshing finish and pairs well with pan-seared scallops or prawns. This is only available to Wine Club members… Read more... (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan