Winecurrent

June 26, 2010 Vintages Release

This Vintages Release catalogue begins with a feature on wines for Canada Day followed by the Main Release. The winecurrent-reviewed wines are in the order they appear in the Vintages Release catalogue.

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
  • Niagara and the Okanagan – team up for 5 wines earning 4 ½ stars in this release and 2 more following the Vintages Release section
  • Finding Waldo – two wines deliver exceptional price-quality ratios; a white at $12.95 and a red at $13.95 with both rated 4 ½ stars
  • Gigondas – is an AOC region in southern Rhône producing powerful Grenache-predominant red blends and there’s a beauty here under France: Red Wine

Canada Day Feature

****1/2 drink now
Tawse Winery ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Riesling 2009 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (089029) 10.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent May 1, 2010 @ $17.95) Delicate mineral, floral and lemon-lime aromas waft from this mid weight, generously textured off-dry beauty. With a glorious fusion of sweet and tangy flavour on the palate—sweet ripe tropical fruit and bracing citrus—it delivers that sweet and tang, yin and yang that pairs so well with spicy Asian cuisine. The finish lingers 30 seconds or more, well balanced and delectable. It’s a lovely wine delivering very good value. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
13th Street Winery Gamay Noir 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (177824) 12.0% alcohol
Wood smoke and gamy aromas roll from the lifted nose of this mid-weight nicely textured Gamay. There’s a focused stream of tangy racy flavour throughout with a predominance of red berry fruit—red currant, strawberry and ripe cranberry mingling with sweet savoury notes. It’s nicely balanced with a dry, lingering mouth-watering aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Quails’ Gate Merlot 2006
VQA Okanagan Valley $24.95 (169961) 14.0% alcohol
Fleshy and full of flavour, this dishes out perfumed aromas of camphor, dried berry fruit and savoury notes. There’s plenty of body and weight in the mouth with the ripe succulent flavours washing in waves—juicy black bramble berry, tangy pie cherry and spiced black plum along with delectable adornments of mocha and espresso roast on the lengthy lip-smacking aftertaste. Pair with roast pork stuffed with dried red fruit. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Port

**** drink now
Quinta Do Tedo Fine Tawny Port
DOC Douro $15.95 (170233) 19.0% alcohol
As smooth as silk and great value, it delivers a mouthful of delicious sweet flavour with fig, raisin and spiced dried fruit galore. It’s medium bodied and very generously textured, doling out a lasting aftertaste of spice cake and nuances of caramel. Good value offered here. Serve slightly chilled with crème caramel. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cave Spring Estate Chenin Blanc 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (627315) 12.0% alcohol
Very good value and brimming with perfumed aromas and complex flavours, this doles out honeysuckle, spice box and mandarin orange on the nose. A mélange of flavours wash over the palate with tangy peel marmalade, honeyed citrus and spiced yellow plum to the fore. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a crisp and refreshing aftertaste. Perfect for sipping al fresco, it has the character and oomph to pair well with lemon veal or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Daniel Lenko Unoaked Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.15 (091173) 13.0% alcohol
Bursting with texture and flavour with nary a splinter of oak, this throws down the gauntlet to the ABC—anything but Chardonnay—crowd; it’s absolutely delicious. Richly flavoured and silky smooth, it delivers a persistent focused stream of well-defined fruit flavour with ripe Bosc pear, racy lemon zest and hints of spiced white peach. The lengthy aftertaste is refreshing and fruit forward ending in a blaze of mouth-watering tang. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Hidden Bench Vineyards and Winery ‘Estate’ Riesling 2008 

VQA Beamsville Bench $24.20 (183491) 11.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent November 21, 2009 at $24.20) Low yields, wild yeasts and meticulous vine and wine management coalesce to produce this racy gem. Mineral, slate and yellow plum on the nose, there’s a focused stream of zesty flavour with lemon-lime, pineapple and white grapefruit to the fore. It’s balanced, refreshing with a lingering lip-smacking finish that adds adornments of nectarine and the promise of desirable petrol characteristics after three to five years of careful cellaring. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Liberty School Chardonnay 2007 

Central Coast, California $17.95 (960120) 13.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent May 1, 2010 @ 17.95) Toasty notes, vanilla and alluring tropical fruit aromas abound on the nose of this mid weight and very generously textured beauty. Ripe citrus, persimmon and green apple flavours persist throughout while the moderating acidity provides a clean and lip-smacking finish. Seamlessly integrated oak, luscious fruit and deft balance coalesce in this value-packed offering. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
McManis Family Vineyards Viognier 2008
California $19.95 (658112) 13.5% alcohol
Full disclosure – I have liked or loved every vintage of McManis Viognier tasted. Oozing aromas and flavours of honeyed tree fruit—apple, pear and peach—that mingle with a steady stream of zippy citrus tang, this is full flavoured and perfectly balanced. Medium bodied with a generous mouth feel and a crisp, lengthy lip-smacking aftertaste, it deserves your attention. Pour with grilled garlic prawns. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

**** drink now
Newman’s Own Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
California $17.95 (104182) 13.5% alcohol
Sweet herb and spice mingling with berry fruit aromas on the nose segue a balanced wash of round and ready California Cab. Flavours of kirsch liqueur and spiced black plum coat the palate, all nicely framed with moderating acidity and a ripe supple tannin structure. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured with a fruit-forward finish. Paul Newman’s legacy lives on with all profits donated to charity—the wine’s good, that makes it better. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Seghesio Family Vineyards ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2007 

Sonoma County, California $39.95 (56879) 15.6% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent May 1, 2010 @ 39.95) Parcels of this were sourced from vines 100+-years-old. Attractive aromas of rich dark berry fruit, floral notes and camphor segue luscious palate-coating flavours of kirsch liqueur, black currant and spiced black Damson plum. Smooth and mellow on the palate, this is marked by deft balance, firm tannin structure and a lengthy involved finish of spice, bramble berry and pie cherry. Good to go now and safely cellared until 2020. (Vic Harradine)

Oregon: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Redhawk Vineyard ‘Grateful Red’ Pinot Noir 2008
Willamette Valley $21.95 (048710) 13.5% alcohol
Round, smooth and chockfull of glorious red fruit tang, this opens with savoury herb and spice-driven aromas. There are balanced and persistent fruit flavours washing in waves with tangy red currant and juicy black Bing cherry predominant. This is light on its feet with delicate texture and a savoury lip-smacking finish. It’s paired perfectly with thin-crust pizza lightly dressed with olive oil, mozzarella and herbed tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
St Hallett Sémillon 2005 

Barossa Valley, Australia $19.95 (658005) 12.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent April 3, 2010 @ $19.95) Just beginning to show treasured aromatics of toast and honeysuckle, plus kaffir lime leaf, this will handsomely repay a further four or five years careful cellaring. It’s bone dry, medium bodied and nicely textured with ripe pear, nuances of persimmon and a spine of bracing lemon-lime acidity. The crisp refreshing finish showers a spray of white grapefruit and green apple. It’s drinking well now poured with freshly shucked oysters or pan-seared scallops; don’t forget to tuck away a couple, as well. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Wynns Coonawarra Estate Chardonnay 2008
Coonawarra, South Australia $16.95 (468728) 13.0% alcohol
Crisp, clean and refreshing, this sets up with lots of flavour, texture and hi-toned character. Tropical fruit, toasty oak and nutty nuances on the nose, it floods the palate with generously textured flavours of ripe lemon tang, apple and pear mingling with hints of hazelnut. It’s medium-full bodied with a lingering aftertaste that’s clean and crisp. Pour alongside rotisserie roast chicken and potato salad. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

**** drink now
Dandelion Vineyards ‘Lionheart of the Barossa’ Shiraz 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $18.95 (167189) 14.5% alcohol
This was gently basket-pressed followed by 12 months in oak then left unfiltered and unfined. That undoubtedly added to the complex, rich, concentrated flavours—fig, plum compote, raisin and licorice—also reflecting the über-hot heat spike during the ‘08 vintage. It’s medium-full bodied, hugely textured and oozing with sweet ripe fruit throughout the lengthy finish. There’s good texture and it’s drinking well now and over the next three years. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Jazz Wines ‘The Shiraz’ 2005
South Australia $18.95 (567826) 14.5% alcohol
Toast, campfire smoke and sprigs of savoury aromas open this mid-weight, nicely textured value-packed red. There’s a boatload of rich luscious juicy fruit flavour with bramble berry and black currant mingling with kirsch liqueur and spice. The finish layers on an underpinning of ripe fine-grained tannin and a dark juicy cherry flavour. Good sipped on its own, better with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Tyrone Estate Wines ‘Home Block’ Merlot 2007
Riverland, South Australia $16.95 (165969) 13.5% alcohol
The warm wine area of Riverland accounts for more than half of South Australia’s crush with most of it exported overseas. This is racy and lively sporting a firm tannic presence. Look for zingy and tangy flavours of cranberry and sour cherry with hints of spice and gamy notes. It’s mid weight and lightly textured dishing out a crisp dry finish that sets this up as a suitable dance partner with grilled back ribs and spicy tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Wakefield ‘Eighty Acres’ Shiraz/Viognier 2007
Clare Valley, South Australia $15.95 (165852) 14.5% alcohol
Subtle aromas of floral, dark berry and spice waft from this mid-weight, nicely textured gem. The additional splash of Viognier in this cool-climate Shiraz creates a rich and luscious lift to the flavours. And there are well-balanced flavours galore with succulent mulberry, luscious black currant and spiced black plum persisting though the lingering fruity aftertaste. Divine when sipped or paired with lamb kebabs. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Rosé

**** drink now
Skuttlebutt Shiraz/Merlot Rosé 2008
Margaret River, Western Australia $16.95 (169383) 13.5% alcohol
There’s lots going on in this nicely structured Rosé; it’s mid weight, nicely textured with good complexity and a lingering lip-smacking finish. Nicely balanced flavours ripple throughout with sweet strawberry, tangy red currant and spiced blood plum predominant. Lovely on its own, it pairs well with roast chicken or veal scaloppini. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Two Tracks Sauvignon Blanc 2009 

Marlborough, New Zealand $16.95 (163980) 12.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent February 20, 2010 @ $16.95) Both value and flavour packed, this jumps from the glass with distinctive aromas of grapefruit and tropical fruit salad. It’s medium bodied with a lovely texture offering flavours of key lime and gooseberry delivered on a crisp and refreshing spine of tangy citrus. The aftertaste is lip-smacking good—the perfect foil to pan-seared or grilled prawns or fish fillets under a squirt of freshly squeezed lemon. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Craggy Range ‘Gimblett Gravels Vineyard’ Merlot 2007
Hawkes Bay, North Island $21.95 (685560) 14.5% alcohol
A premium winery sourcing superior fruit from prime real estate coalesce in this rich and deftly balanced Merlot. Look for a generous mouth feel in this medium-bodied gem. It’s beautifully balanced showcasing ripe succulent dark berry fruit and tangy red cherry with mocha and spice on the palate adding adornments of chocolate and lip-smacking fruit flavour on the lengthy finish. The price-quality balance tips in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

**** drink now
Willy Gisselbrecht ‘Tradition’ Riesling 2007
AOC Alsace $15.95 (169011) 12.0% alcohol
Crisp and refreshing, this is rock-solid four stars at a pretty neat price. Racy lemon-lime, ripe pineapple and lemongrass flavours are carried along on a wonderful bed of acidity. This is light-medium bodied with good texture and a mouth-watering finish. Built for deck and patio sipping, it also pairs well with pan-seared fresh water fish. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Château Canon de Brem 2003
AOC Canon-Fronsac $19.95 (178806) 13.5% alcohol
The price-quality ratio skews well in your favour with this crowd-pleasing Bordeaux red blend from the super-warm ‘03 vintage. It’s mid weight and nicely textured. Savoury herb and sweet ripe fruit aromas make way for a persistent current of flavour with sweet blackberry, ripe succulent cherry and nuances of toast and cassis. It finishes lengthy in a blaze of rich sweet fruit and savoury herb. Drinking well now after a two hour decant and still fresh in 2015. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
M. Chapoutier ‘Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Côtes du Roussillon-Villages’ 2008
AOC Haut Côtes du Roussillon-Villages $15.00 (168716) 13.5% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of garrigue and dark berry fruit abound. A Rhone blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan, it dishes out a generous helping of flavour with black and red currant, juicy Bing cherry and mulberry to the fore. Medium-full bodied and generously textured, it finishes lengthy in a blaze of ripe juicy fruit and spice. Pour alongside a stack of smoked grilled back ribs slathered in spicy BBQ sauce. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Domaine de Pierredon Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages Signargues 2008
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages Signargues $13.95 (175257) 14.5% alcohol
Signargues has the most southerly vineyards within the larger CDR-Villages appellation with red grape blends only—minimum 50% Grenache plus a minimum 20% Syrah and/or Mourvèdre. This is a 50-50 Grenache-Syrah blend and it’s a beauty, oozing gobs of flavour—black currant, sweet plum compote and gamy notes mingling with raisined and ultra-ripe fruit. Mid weight and nicely textured, it sports a lingering balanced aftertaste of juicy, tangy cherry/berry fruit. It earned its final ½ star on value. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
E. Guigal Saint-Joseph 2006
AOC Saint-Joseph $29.95 (030031) 13.0% alcohol
Toasty notes and charred wood on the nose, this showers the palate with a focused and steady stream of racy flavour—tangy red currant, ripe cranberry and sour cherry. It’s medium weight with a light mouth feel and a mouth-watering racy finish. It jumps a notch poured alongside pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Le Gravillas Gigondas 2007
AOC Gigondas $22.95 (078808) 14.5% alcohol
One of the nicest reds of the release, you won’t want to pass it up. There’s a gusher of dark chocolate-infused ripe black cherry, lip-smacking red currant, succulent cassis and underlying hints of mixed spice and herbs. It’s medium bodied, generously textured handing out a lingering luxurious aftertaste of well-balanced mineral-infused fruit—this has it all, you should have some, too. Drinking well now to 2017, either on its own or paired with rare-grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Clos La Coutale Cahors 2007
AOC Cahors $13.95 (171579) 13.0% alcohol
From a region of grainy, tannic reds, this 80:20 - Malbec:Merlot blend is surprisingly smooth and approachable. Brimming with flavour—red cherry, kirsch liqueur, gamy and minty notes coat the palate. It’s light-medium bodied, not heavily textured and perfectly balanced—a food wine, to be certain. The finish adds adornments and layers of focused fruit—red cherry and ripe cranberry with hints of cassis flirting in the background. This punches well above the price. Pour and pair with grilled beef tenderloin. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Illuminati Riparosso Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2008
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $12.95 (328997) 13.5% alcohol
There’s always great value in this 100% Montepulciano; it’s the same price now as in 2003. This vintage it dishes out a lip-smacking rush of well-defined flavour with red cherry, ripe juicy strawberry and sweet savoury notes. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a lengthy aftertaste that’s dry, balanced and mouth-watering good. Good to go now alongside meat-laden pizza or pasta in tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Casa Catelli Primitivo 2004
IGT Puglia $13.95 (174151) 14.0% alcohol
Fennel, spice and berry fruit on the nose, this bursts onto the palate in juicy succulent waves with cassis, spiced black plum and sprigs of herbs. It’s medium bodied and blessed with a generous texture and balance. Crowd pleasing and uncomplicated, it delivers a good splash of moderating acidity along with a ripe tannin underpinning. It earned its final ½ star on value. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Caruso & Minini ‘Cutaja’ Nero d’Avola 2007
IGT Sicilia $14.95 (174763) 14.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas of mixed field berry, sweet floral notes and mocha segue a persistent wash of ripe juicy fruit flavour with black currant and mulberry entwined with hints of camphor. It’s mid weight with a generous mouth feel and a drying finish from chewy tannin. It’s best poured after a two-hour decant alongside rare to medium-rare grilled beef. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Spadina ‘Una Viola Signature’ Syrah 2006
IGT Sicilia $15.95 (171629) 13.5% alcohol
An amalgam of spice box, earthiness and berry fruit aromas open this well-sculpted southern belle. Lively racy flavours of cranberry and pie cherry are borne along a good spine of acidity. There’s a nice mouth feel and the dry lengthy finish layers on ripe fine-grained tannin and red raspberry flavour. This is looking for spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Montiverdi ‘Vigneto Cipressone’ Chianti Classico 1998
DOCG Chianti Classico $24.95 (954370) 13.0% alcohol
One of the stars of the release, this Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon blend offers a dozen years of careful cellaring, solid fruit flavour, good structure, deft balance and complexity. There’s a lifted involved bouquet of vanilla, leather and plum compote that segues a complex and richly flavoured wash of kirsch liqueur, blackberry and spiced black currant on the palate. It finishes dry, lengthy, balanced and lip-smacking fruity. It’s a great sipping wine with the character to pair nicely with beef carpaccio. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Scopetani Chianti Riserva 2006
DOCG Chianti Riserva $13.95 (164814) 12.5% alcohol
Well paced and well priced—earning its final ½ star on value—it jumps from the glass with heady aromas of toast, sweet field berry and mixed spice. There are racy flavours of Montmorency cherry and cranberry adorned by herb and spice. Nicely balanced and still showing a perceptible tannin backbone, it finishes dry with nice fruit balance. Try with thin crust tomato and pepperoni pizza or pasta in arrabbiata sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: White Wine

**** drink now
Bodegas Agnusdei ‘Terra Firme’ Albariño 2008
DO Rías Baixas $13.95 (166751) 12.5% alcohol
This is a go-to wine for seafood in Spain and it works just as well here. Very floral on the nose with tree and pit fruit in the background, there’s a shower of crisp refreshing flavour with lemony citrus, succulent white peach and honeydew melon predominant. It’s light on its feet, surprisingly well textured and full of tang on the mid length lip-smacking finish. Pour with pan-seared scallops over a bed of arugula. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Miguel Torres ‘Viña Esmeralda’ 2009
DO Catalunya $12.95 (113696) 11.5% alcohol
This always gets my vote for a permanent listing with the LCBO—expressive, exotic, erotic aromas of musk, rosewater, floral and spice waft seductively from this light-medium weight charmer. It’s off-dry and fruit forward—honeyed peach and pear with lemon-pie filling for balance and interest—providing that sweet and tang matching so well to spicy Asian dishes like pad Thai or chicken Biryani. It’s also the perfect deck chair or patio-sipping wine. Be warned, it won’t stay on shelves long, especially where I shop. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ardal Crianza 2005
DO Ribera del Duero $17.95 (167601) 14.0% alcohol
Another excellent selection for Wine of the Month, this red blend opens with a richly perfumed nose of dark berry fruit, vanilla and floral aromas. It’s well balanced, medium-full bodied with a textured mouth feel and flavour galore—racy red berry and sweet ripe red cherry adorned by spice and hints of toasty notes. There’s a lip-smacking lingering finish that sets it up for a delightful pairing with meat and prawn paella. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
García Carrión ‘Antaño’ Crianza 2007
DOCa Rioja $13.95 (166686) 13.5% alcohol
There’s a certain charm to this chewy, savoury blend with price making it even more attractive. Sweet savoury herb and spice meld with cherry and cedar aromas on the nose. It’s mid weight and medium textured with fair balance. There’s a rush of mineral-laden flavour with bramble berry and black currant to the fore finishing with a firm aftertaste of dried fruit and an underlay of supple tannin. It goes well with osso bucco and mushroom risotto. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Señorio de Uñuela Crianza 2006
DOCa Rioja $14.95 (172544) 14.0% alcohol
A well-priced crowd-pleasing red, there are aromas of toasty oak, vanilla and ripe red cherry/berry. Mid weight with a silky mouth feel, it gushes with gorgeous succulent flavour—cassis and blackberry balanced and moderated by tangy pie cherry. There’s ripe tannin and fruit flavour galore on the long mouth-watering finish. Give it a go with grilled chorizo. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: August 21, 2010

***1/2 drink now
Fielding Estate Winery ‘Red Conception’ 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 13.0% alcohol
This Merlot-predominant blend has a lifted nose of toasty oak and dark briary berry fruit mingling with hints of sweet savoury herb. Mid weight and nicely textured, you’ll find a wash of balanced flavour on the palate with fennel-infused pie cherry and ripe black currant along with an underpinning of supple tannin. It finishes lengthy and dry with an affinity for food pairing—try beef and mushroom kebabs or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: Fall – Winter 2010

****1/2 drink now
Flagstone ‘The Music Room’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
WO Western Cape $17.95 14.0% alcohol
Premium fruit sourced primarily from cool-climate areas plus meticulous cellar and winemaking practices coalesce in this beautifully balanced, complex and well-structured Cab. The nose is subtle—floral, spice, toasty oak and berry fruit—the flavours are anything but, with rich succulent Bing cherry, cassis, espresso roast and dark chocolate galore. Medium-full bodied with a generous silky-smooth texture, it‘s underpinned by supple ripe tannin and blessed with a lingering lip-smacking fruity finish. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

**** drink now
Fielding Estate Winery Riesling 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 10.5% alcohol
Flavour and value packed, there isn’t much of this on LCBO shelves; it’s worth seeking out. The delicate nose offers soft floral notes and some minerality. The off-dry, palate-coating flavours of racy lime, ripe pineapple and succulent nectarine provide that glorious fusion of sweet and tang that pairs well with Asian cuisine. This is mid weight, very nicely textured dishing out a fabulous lip-smacking finish. Speaking of dishes, try pad Thai. Also available for daily home or office delivery from Fielding. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Flagstone ‘Dragon Tree - Cape Blend’ 2007
WO Coastal Region $15.95 (37549) 14.5% alcohol
(Released earlier, not reviewed in winecurrent—still a few cases remaining and well worth seeking out.) This eclectic red blend, primarily Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Pinotage, rips from the glass with perfumed aromatics of fennel-infused dark berry fruit, spice and black juicy cherry. It’s rich and concentrated on the palate with a gusher of succulent mulberry, tangy red currant and oodles of kirsch liqueur. It’s medium-full bodied nicely textured and well balanced with a gloriously lengthy finish layered with a solid core of spiced ripe sweet fruit. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Flagstone ‘Free Run’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008
WO Cape Agulhas $13.55 (96537) 12.5% alcohol
(Released earlier, not reviewed in winecurrent—still a few cases remaining and worth a search) This punches well above the price, once tasted, you’ll wish there were more. With grapes assiduously sourced from the tiny, but emerging cool-climate ‘Elim’ ward, it dishes out vibrant waves of complex fruit-forward flavour with racy lemon-lime and vibrant pineapple mingling with ripe succulent white peach. It’s mid weight and generously textured with a tangy, crisp refreshing aftertaste. Lovely to quaff on its own and divine paired with pan-seared tilapia under a squirt of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO

***1/2 drink now
Fish Hoek Sauvignon Blanc 2009
WO Western Cape $9.95 (129726) 12.5% alcohol
Bistro-styled and balanced, it deserves a spot in your cart. There’s a lovely wash of crowd-pleasing flavour on the palate with tropical fruit, citrus and melon predominant. It’s mid weight, nicely textured with a refreshing fruity finish. Perfect for sipping on the patio, balcony or deck, it has the oomph to pair well with seafood, both fish and shellfish. (Vic Harradine)

****drink now
Fish Hoek Shiraz 2009
WO Western Cape $9.95 (129734) 14.5% alcohol
Here’s that hidden gem someone else always brings to the party—now it’s your turn to be the frontrunner. It’s fresh, lively and chockfull of rich fruity flavour—red cherry/berry, spiced black plum and hints of cassis. It’s balanced with good mouth feel and a deliciously long finish—a food-friendly crowd-pleaser at a great price. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

**** drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $35.00 (616446) 13.5% alcohol

With grapes sourced from older Chardonnay vines hand-planted in 1998, the juice was then fermented in French oak barrels. Opening with a sharp nose of flint, gun smoke and tree fruit, this bathes the palate with ripe juicy apple, apricot, spiced yellow peach and delicate brushstrokes of buttered toast. Medium-full bodied and quite nicely textured, it sports a crisp, refreshing finish. Drinking especially well 2012 to 2017. For daily home or office delivery order from Henry of Pelham—also available in select LCBO stores. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Short Hills Bench $40.00 (657874) 13.5% alcohol
Savoury spice, black currant and mineral aromas waft easily from this mid-weight fruity gem. There’s a persistent and well-balanced stream of flavour that washes over the palate with succulent red cherry and spiced black plum mingling with a moderating spine of acidity underpinned by firm tannin structure. It delivers good texture and a lengthy, dry tangy finish. Enjoyable now, it’ll improve with careful short-term cellaring. For daily home or office delivery order from Henry of Pelham—also available in select LCBO stores. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 cellar
Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Cabernet - Merlot 2007
VQA Short Hills Bench $50.00 (616433) 14.0% alcohol
Toasty oak and black bramble berry fruit on the nose, this medium-full bodied blend with its fully textured mouth feel delivers a lovely wash of spicy palate-coating flavour with racy pie cherry, boysenberry and nuances of sweet cassis to the fore. There’s plenty of ripe, fine-grained tannin and moderating acidity to provide balance and the promise of superb drinking 2013 to 2020—decant 3 hours if you become impatient. For daily home or office delivery order from Henry of Pelham—also available in select LCBO stores. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Fielding Estate Winery ‘Jack Rabbit Flats Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2008
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $25.15 12.5% alcohol
This punches well above the price and it’s delicious. Two Pinot Noir clones—115 and 777—were vinified separately and blended after 14 months in premium French oak and scrupulous barrel selection. The spice-driven nose offers smoke and dark berry notes as segue to a wave of well-balanced flavour with good complexity—red currant, strawberry and ripe red cherry with nuances of earthiness and mocha. There’s red-fruit tang on the lingering mouth-watering finish. Hats off to winemaker Richie Roberts. Order for daily home or office delivery from Fielding. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 cellar
Fielding Estate Winery Syrah 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $45.15 13.0% alcohol

With premium fruit from a near-perfect vintage sourced from 2 separate vineyards, this bursts from the glass with involved aromas of dark briary berry, forest floor, black pepper and mixed herb/spice notes. Profound flavours of spiced black plum and succulent mulberry coat the palate. It’s medium-full bodied, generously textured with good complexity and a lingering fruity, toasty finish wrapped in firm tannin. Rich, concentrated and full of promise, it’s lovely now and will reward careful cellaring—drink 2012 to 2016. Order for daily home or office delivery from Fielding . (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Fielding Estate Winery ‘White Conception’ 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.15 12.5% alcohol

An aromatic blend of 5 grapes including Pinot Gris, Chardonnay Musqué and Gewürztraminer, this delivers a perfumed nose of exotic spice, incense, and floral notes. It’s fresh, lively and fruit driven on the palate with a persistent stream of racy flavour including key lime, white grapefruit and spice-infused yellow plum. It’s light-medium weight and nicely balanced finishing lengthy crisp and refreshing. A perfect aperitif, it sets the gustatory juices flowing. Order for daily home or office delivery from Fielding. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Pillitteri Estates Winery Merlot Bianco 2008
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $12.00 12.0% alcohol

Fashioned in a traditional Saignee style from the skins of Merlot, it provides one of those rare ‘matches made in heaven’ with seafood, chèvre or deli foods. Fresh and lively, this bursts on the palate with a shower of generous and persistent spine of acidity and focused flavour—freshly picked strawberry, unsweetened cran-apple juice and racy red currant. The riveting tang lingers throughout the mouth-wateringly dry finish. Order online from Pillitteri. (Vic Harradine)

****drink now
Pillitteri Estates Winery Pinot Grigio 2009
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $13.00 12.5% alcohol

Pink-tinged, zesty, crisp and refreshing, this is everything traditional Pinot Grigio should be. Mineral, floral notes and crisp green apple on the nose, this dishes out a focused spray of crisp citrus acidity, mixed tree fruit and nuances of lemon tart. It’s light on its feet with good mouth feel and a racy lip-smacking finish. A great al fresco sipping wine, it pairs well with prawn or scallop ceviche or freshwater bass or pickerel pan-seared and showered with freshly squeezed lemon. Order online from Pillitteri. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic