Winecurrent

May 29, 2010 Vintages Release

This Vintages Release catalogue begins with a feature on wines from Mendoza, Argentina then a feature on Loire Valley, France followed by the Main Release. The winecurrent-reviewed wines are in the order they appear in the Vintages Release catalogue.

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
  • Finding Waldo – a 5-star Port and a 4 ½ star Spanish red @ $12.95
  • Two 5-star reds from Niagara – Coyote’s Run and Pillitteri ring the bell. Find in the ‘New in Ontario Wineries’ section along with a bevy of Ontario beauties
  • Côtes du Rhône Red – check this out, it’s 4½ stars and $14.95
  • German Riesling – there’s a Prädikatswein Kabinett at 4½ stars for under $20.
  • Following the Main Release – discover value-driven wines, most under $15.

Mendoza, Argentina Feature

****1/2 drink or cellar
Luigi Bosca ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2007
Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza $17.95 (079293) 14.0% alcohol
Rich and perfumed—raisin, blackberry and chocolate—this is full of flavour from a rock-solid producer. Red cherry, black currant and spice box on the palate, this is mid weight with a lovely mouth feel. Nicely structured with some complexity, the finish lingers with fruit flavours and lovely balance. Drinking well on its own, grilled strip loin also pairs well. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Calathus Roble Malbec 2007
Uco Valley, Mendoza $19.95 (168435) 13.9% alcohol
This is princely, nudging five stars. Look for rich luscious complex fruit flavour—sweet succulent mulberry, black currant, ripe bramble berry with nuances of camphor carried along on a bed of ripe supple tannin. There are mere wisps of well-integrated oak; it’s deftly balanced with moderating acidity and generously textured with a lingering luxurious finish. It also offers good value. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Finca El Origen Gran Reserva Malbec 2008
Uco Valley, Mendoza $19.95 (065425) 14.8% alcohol
This Wine of the Month also provides a pretty good workout just lifting the bottle—pick one up, literally, and you’ll see what I mean. Built for food, it dishes up a tangy zesty offering of red currant, cherry and spice with a spine of acidity that keeps it focused and racy. It finishes warm with touches of ripe berry fruit. Good to go with pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or  cellar
Zuccardi ‘Q’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 

Mendoza, Argentina $19.95 (140855) 14.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent November 7, 2009) Zuccardi produces the wildly popular ‘Fuzion’—this ‘Q’ is a step up in price and a leap forward in complexity and structure. The lifted nose offers up spice box and mixed field berry fruit aromas while the pronounced dark and delicious flavours surge over the palate in waves—Bing cherry, black currant and adornments of espresso roast and toasty notes. It’s nicely textured and structured with a solid underpinning of firm tannin and moderating acidity. It finishes complex, balanced and lengthy. Aerate/decant for two hours or drink 2011 to 2016. (Vic Harradine)

****drink now
Santa Julia ‘Magna’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Mendoza $14.95 (166421) 14.0% alcohol
From one of Argentina’s other great red grapes, this Cabernet Sauvignon delivers good value at an attractive price point. It’s a drink-me-now crowd-pleaser with bright red berry fruit mingling with cassis and blackberry on the palate and throughout the lingering finish. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with hints of savoury herb on the aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 cellar
Flechas De Los Andes ‘Gran Corte’ 2006
Mendoza $38.95 (166447) 15.5% alcohol
Palate-coating and oozing flavour and texture, this is a dazzling fruit bomb. Dark and inky, there’s flavour galore—dark chocolate, minty black juicy Bing cherry and graphite—plus a long plush fruit-forward finish. It’s sumptuous, medium-full bodied, hugely textured sporting a lengthy a solid underpinning of fine-grained tannin. Not for the faint of heart and drinking well now—after a three-hour decant—and on to the 2020s. (Vic Harradine)

Loire Valley, France Feature

***1/2 drink or cellar
Cave de Montlouis ‘Sec’ Montlouis Sur-Loire 2007
AOC Montlouis Sur-Loire $15.95 (171504) 12.0% alcohol
Built for summertime sipping, it’s crisp, dry and refreshing with a solid stream of focused flavour—white grapefruit, lemon pie filling and nuances of white peach. It’s light weight, delicately textured and sports a dry, clean finish of citrus tang. Pour with pan-seared white fish and buerre blanc sauce. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Château Soucherie ‘Cuvée S’ Coteaux du Layon 2002
AOC Coteaux du Layon $18.95 (952069) 12.5% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of honeysuckle, citrus and tropical fruit waft from this rich unctuous Chenin Blanc. Honeyed tree fruit, sweet apple tart and poached pear on the palate, there’s just enough acidity for balance. The delivery is made more interesting and rich with its
eight years of age. It’s a good-value opportunity to taste aged, honeyed Chenin Blanc—pair with cheese, chèvre or époisses. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Jean-Max Roger ‘Cuvée Les Caillottes’ Sancerre 2008
AOC Sancerre $24.95 (065573) 12.5% alcohol
This is quality Sancerre combining pungent herbaceous notes with good fruit and a generous mouth feel. Grassy, savoury herb and citrus on the nose, focused flavours of Granny Smith apple, lemongrass and zesty lemon are supported by good balance and lavish texture. It’s mid weight and sports a clean, crisp finish. Pour with steamed mussels in white wine sauce. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Port

***** cellar
Graham’s Vintage Port 2007
DOC Porto $85.00 (140202) 20.0% alcohol
Opulent, complex and powerful, this delivers on all counts and should cellar well into the 2030s, possibly beyond. Aromas and flavours of dark chocolate, succulent mixed berry fruit and kirsch liqueur abound on the palate and monumental aftertaste. It’s structured and balanced in tannin, fruit and acidity portending a long and luxurious life. Aficionados, those in the know and collectors will scoop this up; now you’re in the know, be quick if you’d like some. (Vic Harradine)

Fortified Wine: Dessert

**** drink now
Kourtaki Muscat Samos
AOC Samos $14.95 (938407) 15.0% alcohol

And now for something completely different, a ‘Vin Doux Naturel’—it’s a bottle you wouldn’t give a second glance… pity. This offers good value, a fabulous welcoming wine—over the rocks with a splash of tonic or soda—and can be served as dessert. Sweet flavours of dried apricot, honeyed apple and pear coat the palate and gorgeous finish. Great at summer gatherings. (Vic Harradine)

Champagne

**** drink now
Georges Gardet ‘Cuvée Saint Flavy’ Brut Champagne Non-Vintage

AOC Champagne $39.95 (924654)

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent December 5, 2009) This has an attractive nose of mineral, floral and heady citrus notes. There’s a lovely attack on the palate with a rush of white grapefruit and green apple flavours infused with spice and mineral nuances. It’s medium in weight and texture and offers a lingering finish that’s zesty and clean. There’s enough oomph for it to be paired with light appetizers and the attractive price allows it to be served as the welcoming wine at large gatherings. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Fielding Estate Winery ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (164491) 12.5% alcohol
Well paced, well made and well priced—it gained its final half star on value. There are aromas and flavours galore with ripe Bosc pear, lemon-lime citrus and an underlying sense of slate and earthy tones. Mid weight and nicely textured, it keeps its focus throughout the crisp and refreshing finish. Sip on its own or pair with linguine con vongole. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham Reserve ‘Off-Dry’ Riesling 2008
VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (557165) 11.5% alcohol
Slate, mineral and citrus on the nose, sweet and tang flavours bathe the palate with key lime pie, crisp green apple, ripe peach and loads of glorious spice to the fore. Riesling grapes have inherent acidity while the off-dry nature and delicate balance in this allows it to be the perfect foil to spicy Asian cuisine—pad Thai or chicken biryani. It’s nicely priced. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Reif Estate Winery Chenin Blanc 2008 

VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $18.95 (172411) 12.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent May 29, 2010 @ $18.95) Perfumed honeysuckle and tropical fruit aromas waft from this flavourful and deftly balanced gem. It’s a delight on the palate with a rush of honeyed pear, mandarin orange and lip-smacking lemon zest. Mid weight and very generously textured, you’ll not find much better Chenin Blanc from this part of the wine world. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery direct from Reif Estate. (Vic Harradine)

California: Rosé Wine

**** drink now
Clos du Bois Rosé 2008 

Sonoma County $15.95 (120253) 13% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent December 5, 2009 @ $14.95) From a blend of 84% Syrah and 16% Merlot, this is sure to be a crowd pleaser. It’s bold and bright with focused red berry fruit alongside a touch of mint on the nose. It’s lively and fresh with a subtle tannic backbone providing great texture. This medium-bodied rosé will be a natural for foods close to its colour – namely salmon and Berkshire pork. Great value for a wine from this producer, so don’t feel you just have to enjoy it in the spring. (Mark Tandan)

Chile: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Laura Hartwig ‘Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Colchagua Valley $13.95 (727495) 14.0% alcohol
This is a good-value red with balance and structure. Opening with complex aromas of spice box, dark berry fruit and vanilla, the flavours wash the palate with cherry and black currant predominant. It’s mid weight, nicely textured with a lengthy fruit-driven finish mingling with mint and perceptible tannin. You could drink now after a two-hour decant and pour alongside grilled rib-eye, rare to medium rare, or cellar and open 2012 to 2017. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Santa Carolina ‘Barrica Selection’ Merlot 2008
Rapel Valley $14.95 (027276) 14.0% alcohol
The price-quality ratio skews well in your favour, consider picking up a few. Toast and dark field berry on the nose, this gets into high gear on the palate with a burst of warm, rich and concentrated flavour—bramble berry and succulent, minty, black Bing cherry. The lingering finish is nicely balanced and fruit forward. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: White Wine

**** drink now
D’Arenberg ‘The Olive Grove’ Chardonnay 2007 

McLaren Vale/Adelaide Hills, South Australia $17.95 (702845) 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent January 31, 2009) Olive trees thrive here. Birds feed on the ripe olives, dropping stones, and where they land an olive tree might grow—including between the vines. This wine has nice aromatic balance between tree and tropical fruits and the pleasant leesy notes imparted by the winemaking process. It has pleasant acidity and great balance, and at a nicely reserved 13.5% alcohol. It feels medium bodied in the mouth. This will be pretty versatile with a wide range of foods from baked fish to roasted pork, and it offers good value. (Mark Tandan)

Australia: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
d’Arenberg ‘The Custodian’ Grenache 2007
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (713040) 14.5% alcohol
The lifted aromas are an exotic amalgam of mixed spice, dried fruit and black currant. A focused and taut wave of flavour washes the palate with a cornucopia of riches—tangy black raspberry, minty red cherry and savoury spice. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured delivering racy finish that layers on hints of licorice. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Fools Bay ‘Dirty Bliss’ Grenache/Shiraz 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (165787) 15.5% alcohol
Surprisingly well balanced given the hi-octane alcohol, this delivers a powerful gusher of fruit flavour with cherry clafoutie, warm ripe mulberry and black currant jam predominant. It’s full bodied, generously textured and delivers a balanced delectable mouthful glass after glass. Give this a go matching weight for weight—rich osso bucco with wild-mushroom risotto. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Mr. Riggs ‘The Gaffer’ Shiraz 2008
McLaren Vale, South Australia $23.95 (047597) 15.0% alcohol
There’s nothing complicated here, unscrew the cap and whack it back—it’s fruity with lovely texture and a lengthy succulent fruit-forward finish. What’s not to like? Aromas and flavours of dark jammy fruit abound with bramble berry and black raspberry to the fore. Rich and concentrated, this is looking for spiced grilled back ribs. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 cellar
Yalumba ‘Menzies The Cigar’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Coonawarra, South Australia $24.95 (165829) 14.5% alcohol
This is the pick of the litter in this line-up with a measured bouquet of toast and spiced berry fruit. Palate-coating flavours wash in waves with juicy mulberry, sweet Kirsch liqueur and lip-smacking red currant galore. It’s fully textured, full bodied, perfectly balanced though still wrapped in a gentle cloak of tannin—albeit fine-grained and beginning to resolve. The monumental finish is delectable. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Zilzie Shiraz 2008
Barossa Valley, South Australia $17.95 (058016) 14.5% alcohol
Zilzie—not a small producer—is well known in Australia as a trusted supplier of value-driven wine and here’s one reason why. Tangy and balanced, look for a subtle nose of black pepper and Damson plum aromas. Rich concentrated flavours abound with bramble berry, black currant jam and mixed spice on the palate then replayed on the lengthy finish. A splash a Viognier provides good verve in the fruit. Mid weight with a generous mouth feel, this sips well and pairs perfectly with rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

**** drink now
Kim Crawford ‘Kim’s Favourite SP’ Chardonnay 2007
Gisborne, North Island $24.95 (090126) 13.5% alcohol
Toasty oak and exotic spice aromas on the nose, this showers the palate with vibrant flavours of racy citrus, ripe juicy white peach and sprigfuls of spice. Plush in the mouth there’s a lovely silky texture and pleasing balance, finishing with more toasty notes, crisp and dry. It’s a lovely drop on its own, also pairing well with deli take-away rotisserie chicken. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Matua Valley ‘Shingle Peak’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (309591) 13.0% alcohol
Quintessential Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, it explodes from the glass with pungent grassy aromas entwined with gooseberry and lemongrass. There’s a solid spine of focused nerve and verve acidity that’s nicely balanced by flavours of lemon pie filling and a fair amount of residual sugar. What does that mean to you? It’s balanced and lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: Red Wine

**** drink now
Backsberg ‘Pumphouse’ Shiraz 2006
WO Paarl $21.95 (652651) 15.0% alcohol
There’s a boatload of tar, smoke and dark berry aromas on the nose of this well-focused red. Flavours of raisin and black plum are nicely balanced with racy red currant and zesty cranberry. It’s mid weight and nicely textured sporting great balance and a warm lengthy lip-smacking aftertaste. Give it a go paired with a serious slab of beefsteak hot off the barbie. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

**** cellar
Château de Fonbel 2006
AOC St-Émilion Grand Cru $29.00 (563270) 13.0% alcohol
The nose is deeply perfumed with toast, spice, graphite and berry fruit; it’s full of promise. The promise is fulfilled on the palate with dark berry fruit, racy red currant and nuances of spice box. Mid weight and nicely textured, that mouthful of well-balanced flavour replays on the lingering finish. You’ll also find a firm tannin structure requiring time in the cellar—drinking well 2011 to 2016. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Château La Raze Beauvallet 2005
AOC Médoc $16.95 (170316) 12.5% alcohol
Bistro styled and flavour packed, this delivers a quiet nose of mixed spice and field berry aromas followed by a generous splash of flavour on the palate—cherry berry with wisps of toasty oak. Mid weight and quite plush in texture, the finish is fruity and balanced. Pour with meat-laden pizza or burgers. Very good value for Bordeaux. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Mas del Périé ‘Tradition’ Malbec Cahors 2006
AOC Cahors $18.95 (171561) 13.0% alcohol
Ripe raisined black currant and spiced plummy aromas waft from this full-bodied and fully flavoured gem. There’s a wash of rich and concentrated flavour with black currant, black licorice and hints of underbrush carried along on a generous bed of texture. There is enough tannin for structure and the finish is balanced. Perfectly paired with braised beef shanks. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ferraton Pere & Fils ‘Samorens’ Côtes du Rhône 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône $14.95 (168708) 14.0% alcohol
Here’s a plush crowd pleaser at a great price earning its final ½ star because of it—the price-quality balance tips in your favour, pick up a few for summer and fall barbies or winter and spring sipping. Delivering nicely textured smooth flavours—black juicy cherry, blueberry and spiced black plum—it’s medium weight with structure, balance and complexity. The lingering finish is fruity, mouth watering and lingering. (Vic Harradine)

France: Rosé Wine

***1/2 drink now
Mas Belles Eaux ‘Collection Languedoc’ Rosé 2009
Vin de Pays d’Oc $13.95 (117358) 12.5% alcohol
Well paced and well priced, it opens with a lovely bouquet of freshly picked strawberries, spice and floral notes. The fruit and spice is replayed along with a lovely spine of ruby red grapefruit acidity making it a mouthful of crisp and refreshing flavour on the palate and the lip-smacking finish. Pairs well with deli-platter cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

Germany: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Kruger-Rumpf Riesling Kabinett 2008
Prädikatswein Münsterer Kapellenberg $18.95 (721928) 8.0% alcohol
Scented with mineral, floral and citrus notes on the nose, this dishes up a delectable serving of sweet and tang, yin and yang flavours. Sweet apple, honeyed pear and juicy ripe yellow peach flavours are juxtaposed with snappy citrus acidity providing a sensational tasting experience. Mid weight with a glorious texture, this is a lovely welcoming wine or aperitif. It’s lovely sipping now and even better 2015 to 2018 when those petrol aromas should appear. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

***** drink or cellar
Terra d’Aligi ‘Tatone’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2006 

DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $15.95 (994616) 14.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent January 9, 2010) Concentrated and opaque with deep red hues, this is a richly aromatic wine with notes of licorice, ripe fruits and smoky oak. The full dark fruity flavors combine with silky slightly drying tannins and moderate acidity to produce a beautifully balanced wine with enduring impact. It has a long dazzling finish with lovely notes of sweet spice and rich caramel. A great wine to serve with hard cheese or beef Florentine. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 cellar
Crociani Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2006
DOCG Vino Nobile di Montepulciano $25.95 (164681) 13.5% alcohol
Structured and balanced with brush strokes of elegance, this is a keeper—drinking well 2014 – 2020. Perfumed aromas waft freely—black currant and cherry mingling with floral note, leather, spice and mocha. It’s medium-full bodied, nicely textured and flavourful. Cassis, mulberry and spiced black plum wash over the palate and lingering, well-balanced finish. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 cellar
Marchesi De’ Frescobaldi ‘Tenuta Di Castiglioni’ 2007
IGT Toscana $21.95 (145920) 14.0% alcohol
Here’s an excellent addition to the cellar. The lifted nose of camphor and dark berry fruit segues a full-bodied mouthful of rich and concentrated flavour with juicy Bing cherry, coffee-infused black currant and dark chocolate to the fore. It’s beautifully textured with good weight and balance. There’s a generous ladleful of firm tannin—drink 2015 to 2022. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Cá Isidora Ripasso Valpolicella 2007
DOC Ripasso della Valpolicella $15.95 (160267) 13.5% alcohol
Flavourful and value packed, this is a rock solid 4 stars and worth a hard look. There’s a boatload of rich dark fruit flavour on the palate—currant, raisin and cherry—that’s framed nicely with moderating acidity and underpinned by a delicate ripe tannin structure. It’s mid weight, nicely textured with a lengthy fruity finish—what’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Churchill’s Estates ‘Vinho Tinto’ 2007
DOC Douro $22.95 (166561) 14.0% alcohol
Rich and rustic, this delivers a cornucopia of aromas and flavours with sweet black plum, raisin, spice box, savoury herb, succulent bramble berry and minty cherry all in the fray. Mid weight and well textured, it sports a lengthy lip-smacking aftertaste that displays some firm tannin—best drunk 2013 to 2018, but if you can’t wait, decant two hours and pair with spicy chorizo or a few small chunks of Parmigiano Reggiano. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Vinha d’Ervideira Colheita Seleccionada 2007
DOC Alentejo $15.95 (168773) 13.5% alcohol
This is a blend of local grapes, Trincadeira, Aragonez and Alicante Bouschet along with Cabernet Sauvignon, delivering good value and a mouthful of flavour. Toast, berry fruit and mixed spice box on the nose, the palate’s treated to a well-balanced and lip-smacking wave of flavour with succulent mulberry, juicy Bing cherry and racy red currant galore. The aftertaste is a replay of the palate and lasts 20 seconds or more. Good to go now and worth picking up a few. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: White Wine

**** drink now
Martin Códax Albariño 2008
DO Rías Baixas $17.95 (984906) 12.5% alcohol
Crisp and refreshing, this doles out summer in a glass; it’s an easy-sipping al fresco white. Oodles of jazzy aromas jump from the glass with citrus, floral notes, lemongrass and spiced pear among them. It dances lightly on the palate with zesty flavours of ripe ruby red grapefruit and key lime finishing with a shower of refreshing, mouth-watering tang. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

**** drink now
Casa De Illana Tradicion 2006
DO Ribera del Júcar $12.95 (168799) 14.5% alcohol
You’ll look long and hard to find better value than this; arrive early and back up the SUV. From a newly minted Spanish wine region (2003), this offers a plush mouth feel, excellent balance and fruit flavour galore. An involved nose of spice, dark berry fruit and toasty notes segue wave after wave of palate-washing flavour with fleshy ripe mulberry, black berry and juicy black cherry predominant. There’s good acidity and enough ripe tannin for interest and structure while the finish lingers with notes of black licorice and spiced Damson plum. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: June 26, 2010

**** drink now
Quails’ Gate Chardonnay 2008
VQA Okanagan $TBA 14.0% alcohol
Produced from Mt. Boucherie estate fruit, 65% saw only stainless steel while 35% spent 10 months in French oak. Pale gold and luminescent, it’s finely balanced and well integrated with subtle aromas of toast, caramelized apple and light citrus. It’s dry and complex with a refreshing and smooth texture coupled with attractive flavours of ripe tree fruit, pink grapefruit and orange zest. The lingering finish is creamy and fresh. A great match for pasta primavera or warm chicken salad with sautéed mushrooms. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Quails’ Gate Merlot 2007
VQA Okanagan $TBA 14.5% alcohol
A deep opaque red, this Merlot is produced primarily from estate fruit that was aged 18 months in seasoned French and American oak barrels. The nose is alluring with plummy fruit and spicy, smoky aromas along with a hint of Okanagan sage. It’s well structured, displaying ripe firm tannins along with fresh acidity, ripe plum and cherry flavours mingling with exotic spice and cocoa notes. Dry and full bodied, the wine has an extended finish with lingering traces of toast and berries. Cellar up to 5 years, or serve with roast beef tenderloin and mushroom tarragon sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

Vintages Release: Summer/Fall 2010

**** drink now
Sandhill Pinot Blanc 2008
VQA Okanagan $17.95 12.0% alcohol
Sandhill was named Winery of the Year in 2009—also achieving white and red wine of the year. Half the fruit was fermented in stainless with the balance spending 6 months in French oak. Complex aromas of pear, apricot, lemon-lime with light floral and toast notes introduce this approachable fresh-tasting gem. On the palate it’s bright and crisp with zippy acidity—redolent of fresh tropical fruit salad with a squeeze of lime. It’s light-medium bodied with an extended refreshing finish. It’s also a delight! (Susan Desjardins)

Vintages Release: Fall 2010


**** drink now
Tawse Winery ‘Growers Blend’ Pinot Noir 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $31.95 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of dark briary fruit and mixed spice roll from this medium-bodied, nicely textured Pinot. The flavours replay on the palate with black raspberry, spiced pie cherry and red currant galore. The tannin is soft and supple and the finish lip-smacking good, redolent of cranberry and Christmas cake spice. Pour with smoked grilled duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: August 7, 2010


**** drink now
Gray Monk Pinot Gris 2008
VQA Okanagan $TBA 12.7% alcohol
Fermented in stainless and produced from north Okanagan fruit, it’s a clean pale gold. It displays tropical fruit aromas with notes of melon, clover honey and spice. Dry and medium bodied, it’s a fruit bowl of flavour—bright citrus, ripe apple and hints of nectarine. Crisp acidity refreshes the palate through the mid-length fruity finish. It’s a clear choice for wild BC salmon or chowder. (Susan Desjardins)

Vintages Release: September 4, 2010

**** drink now
Gray Monk Gewürztraminer 2008
VQA Okanagan $TBA 12.9% alcohol
Extended skin contact leads to the enticing, expressive aromas—lychee, ripe stone fruit, spice and elusive citrus notes. On the palate the layered ripe fruit flavours are matched with fresh acidity. Mouth filling, round and just off dry, the wine is mid weight and beautifully balanced. It offers a lovely extended finish that replays stone and tree fruits underlain with a refreshing zesty citrus note. This is a great match for all manner of spicy foods. (Susan Desjardins)

New in the LCBO

**** drink now
Coyote’s Run Estate Winery Pinot Blanc 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 12.0% alcohol
An alluring nose of subtle captivating aromas—lemon-lime, exotic spice and peach—provide delightful segue to a focused stream of sweet and tang, yin and yang flavours—honeyed pear, racy lemon and zesty ripe pineapple. It’s an easy sipping crowd-pleaser that pours well as a welcoming wine or paired with pan-seared calamari rings under a squish of fresh lemon. There’s good value here. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Coyote’s Run Estate Winery Pinot Gris/Pinot Blanc 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (112144) 12.0% alcohol
A delicate complex nose of floral, spice box, minerality and tree fruit aromas open this fruit-forward delectable gem. Spice-infused fruit washes over the palate in waves—white peach, grapefruit and racy lemon. Mid weight and quite generously textured it finishes dry, crisp, complex and lip-smacking good. Pour under the summer sun with spicy crab cakes or all manner of sea food. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Finca Flichman ‘Misterio’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Mendoza, Argentina $7.95 (163949) 13.5% alcohol
Semi opaque, this soft easy-drinking wine is deep red with a slight violet hue. It displays attractive floral notes along with aromas of cherry, black berry and spice. There are plummy notes joining bright berry flavours, spice and pepper on the palate. Medium-full bodied, the wine is fruity with supple tannin and soft acidity. The mid-length finish replays the fruit, underlain with notes of char. A great BBQ wine. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
François Lurton Pinot Gris 2009
Uco Valley, Argentina $10.95 (556746) 13.0% alcohol
Lurton was the first winery to plant this varietal in Argentina—shipped by accident instead of Chardonnay. This is an appealing crowd-pleaser characterized by fresh aromas of ripe peaches and tree fruit. It displays fresh acidity, ripe stone fruit and citrus flavours with a slightly pithy note. It’s medium bodied, with a fresh citrussy finish. Sip on its own or serve with poached fish. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
McWilliams ‘Hanwood Estate’ Chardonnay 2008
South Eastern Australia $13.95 (557934) 13.5% alcohol
Toast, tropical fruit and wisps of oak aromas on the nose set up a well-balanced mouthful of crisp, clean and refreshing flavour. Focused and flavourful on the palate, there’s good zest and tang—lemon, grapefruit and succulent white peach. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a mid length mouth-watering aftertaste that layers on hints of toasty oak. It pours and pairs well with pan-seared freshwater fish under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

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McWilliams ‘Hanwood Estate’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
South Eastern Australia $14.95 (214557) 14.0% alcohol
The delightful nose of currant, toast and dark berry fruit aromas segue a well-balanced wash of rich flavour with black currant, ripe mulberry and cassis predominant. It’s medium bodied with a generous mouth feel and sports a lengthy finish that’s underpinned by a firm tannin structure and nuances of oak. Good to go now with a two-hour decant or accompanied by a juicy rib eye, grilled rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
McWilliams ‘Hanwood Estate’ Shiraz 2007
South Eastern Australia $14.95 (610683) 14.0% alcohol
Juicy, rich and bursting with flavour, the captivating aromas—exotic spice and vanilla fusing with bare hints of oak—segue a wave of flavour washing over the palate—ripe juicy mulberry, spiced black plum and spice-infused black, ripe Damson plum. It’s mid weight, nicely balanced and ready to roll. Pour on its own—with each sip better than the last—or pair with a slab of smoked and grilled back ribs slathered with spicy BBQ sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Peninsula Ridge Estates Winery Cabernet 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (598748) 12.5% alcohol
A even-split blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, the quiet nose of red berry fruit and spice aromas segue a round and ready mouthful of well-balanced flavour. There’s black currant, mint-infused cherry and spiced black plum mingling with ripe resolving tannin on the palate and mid-length aftertaste. There’s good value here and it pairs exceptionally well with burgers, meat-laden pizza or gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)

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Peninsula Ridge Estates Winery Merlot 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (61101) 13.0% alcohol
This is smooth and mellow with good fruit flavour—just the red to serve with roast chicken or lightly herbed and spiced veal or pork. It’s chockfull of succulent red berry flavour infused with savoury herbs. It’s mid weight, very generously textured and underpinned with ripe fine-grained tannin. The finish is mid length, balanced and layered with hints of bell pepper. (Vic Harradine)

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Peninsula Ridge Estates Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (53678) 13.0% alcohol
Lovely aromas of tropical fruit, floral notes and streaks of minerality on the nose, it dishes up a round and ready delightful sipper. Waves of flavour wash over the palate with white peach, green apple and citrus galore and they carry through the lengthy mouth-watering finish. An appealing style that lends itself to sipping on its own or paired with lighter food, like thinly sliced grilled chicken over lightly oiled mesclun mix. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Peninsula Ridge Estates Winery Shiraz 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (70052) 12.5% alcohol
The price-quality balance tips well in your favour—it’s as good as you’ll get at this price from around here. It opens with an appealing nose of dark juicy briary fruit and mixed spice followed by a well-balanced and generously textured mouthful of flavour—ripe mulberry, spiced cranberry and hints of kirsch liqueur. It’s medium bodied with a fruit-forward mid-length aftertaste. Sip on its own or pour with grilled lamb. (Vic Harradine)

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Pillitteri Estates Winery Pinot Grigio 2009
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $12.95 (146787) 12.5% alcohol
This opens with exotic aromas of honeysuckle, buckwheat and citrus delivering a focused and high-toned wash of clean, crisp and refreshing flavour with lemongrass, ripe white peach and tangy lemon to the fore. There’s a replay of flavour on the zesty aftertaste coupled with a delicate dash of ginger and other mixed spice. Paired perfectly with freshly shucked oysters. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Rosemount Estate ‘Diamond Cellars’ Grenache Shiraz 2008
South Eastern Australia $12.85 (476838) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of dark sweet berry fruit and cherry swirl from the glass of this mid-weight, generously textured blend. It delivers a gusher of candied fruit with flavours of cherry, raspberry and black plum galore. The warm aftertaste is fruit-forward and redolent of cherry pie filling. Pair with a strip of smoked and grilled back ribs slathered in spicy BBQ sauce. (Vic Harradine)

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Rosemount Estate ‘Diamond Cellars’ Shiraz Cabernet 2008
South Eastern Australia $12.85 (214270) 13.5% alcohol
A rock-solid 4 stars and value packed, this red blend is fruity, fresh and lively. Look for aromas and waves of flavour with spice, minty Montmorency cherry and dark berry fruit galore. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured with a refreshing lingering aftertaste. Give it a go with what comes off your Broil King—burgers, steak or gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Torres ‘Sangre de Toro’ 2007 

DO Catalunya, Spain (6585) $12.05 13.5% alcohol
Earthy, dark and exotic aromas on the nose, this Grenache-Carignan blend bursts on the palate with concentrated flavours of black currant, pie cherry and racy cranberry. It’s medium weight and nicely textured sporting good structure underpinned by supple tannin. This certainly has body and balance to pair well with comfort food—burgers, pizza or lasagna. Added bonus—for every six bottles sold, ‘Trees Ontario’ will plant a tree in aid of the environment. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

**** drink now
Coyote’s Run Estate Winery ‘5-Mile’ 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 11.5% alcohol
Lip-smacking good and value-packed, this delivers a lovely mouthful of delicious flavour with lemon-lime tang and succulent white peach predominant. It’s a blend of Riesling, Pinot Blanc and Gewürztraminer with a silky mouth feel and generous texture. The aftertaste is a delightful balance of ripe, sweet peach and racy citrus. It’s crisp and refreshing—made to be sipped outdoors and it works well with lighter cuisine. For daily delivery to home or office order direct from Coyote's Run. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink now
Coyote’s Run Estate Winery ‘Red Paw Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc 2008
VQA Four Mile Creek $21.95 13.0% alcohol
Succulent fruit-driven flavours, interesting complexity and a silky tannin structure mark this as special. Involved delicate aromas waft from this mid-weight nicely textured red with mint-infused cherry, black pepper and brush strokes of earthy notes predominant. It bathes the palate with well-balanced flavours of kirsch liqueur, spiced cranberry and ripe succulent dark berry fruit. The finish lingers, but you shouldn’t—only 100 cases made. For daily delivery to home or office order direct from Coyote's Run. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Coyote’s Run Estate Winery ‘Red Paw Vineyard’ Pinot Gris 2009
VQA Four Mile Creek $17.95 12.5% alcohol
Soft subtle aromas of spring flowers, citrus, slate and spice open this rich, complex and beautifully structured drop. Creamy smooth and richly textured on the palate, there’s a persistent stream of crisp refreshing flavour with ruby red grapefruit, tangy lemon and spice-infused yellow plum to the fore. Well paced, well priced and delicious, it sips well on its own or when paired with a deck chair and a good book. For daily delivery to home or office order direct from Coyote's Run. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Coyote’s Run Estate Winery ‘Red Paw Vineyard’ Syrah 2008
VQA Four Mile Creek $21.95 12.5% alcohol
Spice box, toast and floral notes mingle with heady aromas of dark juicy cherry. Palate-coating flavours wash the palate extending though the lengthy and deftly balanced finish—bramble berry, ripe black Bing cherry and lashings of dark chocolate. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and brimming with pleasurable sipping—each sip, each glass, better than the one before. For daily delivery to home or office order direct from Coyote's Run. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Peninsula Ridge Estates Winery ‘Dubois Vineyard - Reserve’ Gewürztraminer 2009
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $25.00 11.0% alcohol
Exotic aromas of rosewater, Turkish delight and spice leap from the glass. Waves of focused, crisp and refreshing fruit flavour wash over the palate with ripe grapefruit, racy lemon sherbet and spiced yellow plum to the fore. It’s medium-full bodied with a fully textured mouth feel and a balanced, lingering lip-smacking finish. Fashioned by exciting new winemaker, Jamie Evans, this is low-yield benchmark Niagara Gewürztraminer which you’ll certainly not want to miss. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Peninsula Ridge. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink now
Pillitteri Estates Winery ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $32.00 13.5% alcohol
Think Ripasso… think juicy delicious wine… think you’d better get some. Right from the get-go, you know this is special—the complex nose dishes up a cornucopia of aromas with black licorice, minty chocolate-infused cherry, tar and spiced black plum. Balanced, well structured and oozing class, it delivers a focused stream of persistent flavour—ripe sweet mulberry, black currant, raisined fruit and pie cherry mingling with toasty notes and spice. Harvested in mid-December, it was washed over the pressed skins of the 2007 Vintage after spending a year in barrel—all up, spending 33 months in older oak. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Pillitteri. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Pillitteri Estates Winery Cabernet ‘Sparkling Icewine’ 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $80.00 375 mL 10.0% alcohol
Peppery spice, ginger and candied strawberry on the nose, this bursts on the palate with mouth-coating force and flavours—red berry treacle and sweet red cherry mingling with spiced ripe pear poached in red wine. This can easily be served as dessert or with just a dark truffle for company. You can easily share this at a table for six. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Pillitteri. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Pillitteri Estates Winery ‘Select Late Harvest’ Cabernet 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.00 375 mL 11.5% alcohol
The dazzling red ochre-hued burnished bronze liquid bursts with a perfumed bouquet—candied cherry and black plum compote. It bathes the palate with well-balanced flavour; there’s peppery raisin, fresh strawberry and succulent ripe red cherry to the fore. The aftertaste lingers and longs to be paired with cherry clafoutie or death-by-chocolate dessert. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Pillitteri. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Reif Estate Winery ‘Select Late Harvest’ Vidal 2006
VQA Ontario $19.95 (282855) 13.0% alcohol
An incredible bronze-gold colour, this dazzles the palate and senses with rich and concentrated succulent flavour. Mouth-coating flavours of crème brulée, sweet apricot and spiced caramelized yellow peach persist throughout the lip-smacking finish. Mid weight and generously textured, it sports a balanced, spicy and lingering finish. A gorgeous dessert wine, serve chilled and on its own. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery direct from Reif Estate. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Reif Estate Winery Chenin Blanc 2008
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $18.95 (172411) 12.0% alcohol
Perfumed honeysuckle and tropical fruit aromas waft from this flavourful and deftly balanced gem. It’s a delight on the palate with a rush of honeyed pear, mandarin orange and lip-smacking lemon zest. Mid weight and very generously textured, you’ll not find much better Chenin Blanc from this part of the wine world. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery direct from Reif Estate. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tawse Winery Gewürztraminer Icewine 2008
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $34.95 200 mL 11.0% alcohol
Rosewater, lychee nut and oodles of spice on the nose, it delivers a long rich and delectable wave of luscious flavour with spiced apricot, ripe white peach and a salad bowl of tropical fruit flavour on the palate and lingering aftertaste. It’s mid weight, generously textured and perfectly balanced with a lovely shower of citrus on the crisp lip-smacking finish. The perfect size for two; I’m free most weeknights. Order a case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan