Winecurrent

January 23, 2010 Vintages Release

This Vintages catalogue begins with a feature on Argentine wine followed by the familiar country/region format found in the ‘Main Release’ with winecurrent-reviewed wines in the order of the Vintages Release catalogue. 


Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

  • Argentine and value-packed – both 4½ stars, the white is $13.95, the red $14.95.
  • Ringing the 5 star bell – from Niagara, Le Clos Jordanne’s Pinot Noir.
  •  Two Glasses – 2 tasters, same conclusion – it’s red, it’s Italian, it’s gorgeous.
  • Finding Waldo – an old world red at $12.95 rated 4 ½ stars.

Argentina’s Peak Performers’ Feature

****1/2 drink now
Catena Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Mendoza $19.95 (985002) 13.5% alcohol

Catena’s Cabernet Sauvignon is blended from fruit grown at a variety of altitudes in the Andes adding character and complexity to the wine. Inky coloured with classic aromas—cassis, dark berries and notes of eucalyptus and cigar box—this is a medium to full-bodied wine showing good structure and concentration. The wine’s ripe fruit flavors are well balanced with woodsy tannins and fine acidity. Nuances of vanilla and mocha feature in the long, lingering fruity finish. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Alamos Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 

Mendoza $13.95 (467944) 13.5% alcohol 


(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Toasty oak and dried berry fruit aromas form the nose of this good-value nicely fashioned bistro-styled red. It’s medium in weight and mouth feel with fruit-forward flavours of kirsch liqueur and black raspberry. It finishes nicely balanced and fruity with a moderating hit of ripe cranberry flavour. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Alamos Torrontès 2008
Salta $13.95 (81539) 13.0% alcohol

Produced from an intensely aromatic varietal originating from Spain, the floral and tropical fruit aromas of this bright pale gold wine are dramatic. And the intensity carries through in the honeyed tropical fruit flavour washing across the palate. The sweet fruit is balanced with racy acidity and a pleasant tart note. Medium bodied, the wine has a lingering finish. Well priced and well poured alongside pad Thai, vegetarian egg rolls or pan-seared prawns. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Kaiken ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2008
Mendoza, Argentina $14.95 (58339) 14.5% alcohol

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Dark purple, almost opaque in the glass, aromas of red cherry segue an uncomplicated stream of flavour-packed fruit with pie cherry, ripe mulberry and spice-infused bramble berry predominant. It’s mid weight and smooth as silk on the delivery. There’s a wisp of nicely integrated oak on the warm, sweet and value-packed finish. This is a (new) Vintages Essentials product, always available in select stores. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Viña Cobos ‘Felino’ Malbec 2008
Mendoza $19.95 (118067) 14.7% alcohol

A well-made wine, this Malbec offers aromas of spice, licorice, plums and dark berries. The flavors carry through to a plush mouthful of berry fruit and ripe spiciness. It’s medium bodied with supple tannin and warm notes of white pepper on the finish. A nicely balanced wine that is showcased when poured alongside not-too-spicy chicken wings. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Viña Cobos ‘Felino’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Mendoza $19.95 (132365) 14.7% alcohol

Here’s a well put together Cabernet with über-ripe fruit aged in American and French oak for 8 months. It’s loaded with aromas and extracted flavors of fresh-from-the-oven berry pie and black plums. The toasty oak nose and hints of cocoa on the palate join with fine-grained tannins to balance the jammy fruit. It’s round and full with a long warm finish featuring a pleasant lingering note of wood char. Pair with kebabs—spicy pork or curried lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now
Santa Julia ‘Magna’ 2008
Mendoza $14.95 (93799) 14.0% alcohol

A blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah; this wine brings a broad range of aromas and flavors to the glass. It opens with a subtle nose of spice box, raspberry pie, roses and vanilla. Rich and mouth filling on the palate, it offers spice, mint and chocolate with impressive flavors of ripe plums and berries balanced by a soft seam of acidity. Medium to full bodied, it has a long warm finish. It’s a good-value wine with all components achieving harmony. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Zuccardi ‘Q’ Tempranillo 2006
Mendoza $18.95 (973503) 14.0% alcohol

Made with fruit harvested from decades-old vines, this is a dense, purple-coloured red wine. The aromas include ripe black fruits, some woodsy notes and a hint of black pepper. It’s full bodied and well balanced with spicy berry fruit on the palate. There’s moderate acidity and gentle tannins with a long warm peppery finish. Bring on a rare steak or prime rib roast. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now
Santa Julia ‘Reserva’ Chardonnay 2008
Mendoza $13.95 (932368) 13.5% alcohol

This is named after owner Don Zuccardi’s only daughter who was instrumental in the expansion of his export business. It’s pale gold, bright and aromatic with rich ripe tree fruits, vanilla and traces of toasty oak. Flavors of ripe pears, sweet apples and honeyed oak are balanced with fresh acidity to create an appealing and vivacious wine. Well balanced, the finish is long and buttery. It’s paired perfectly with take-out rotisserie chicken. This gained its final ½ star on value. (Susan Desjardins)

Fortified Wine

**** drink now
Fonseca ‘Bin 27 Fine Reserve’ Port Non-vintage 

DOC Porto $16.95 (156877) 20.0% alcohol 


(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Dark fruit aromas—plum, raisin and field berry—drift from the glass of this sweet and succulent dessert wine. Ripe and generously textured flavours flow over the palate with spice cake, black plum compote and currants predominant. This is best sipped at the end of a meal on its own or with a mixed plate of hard aged cheese and nuts or with dark chocolate. There’s good value here. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Inniskillin ‘Commemorative Edition’ Vidal Icewine 2006 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $59.85 (87775) 375ml 9.0% alcohol


(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Inniskillin is the original icewine producer in Ontario and has gained an international reputation – for good reason. There are classic floral aromas on the nose, with peach, honey, ripe apple and lemon drops. Sweet and low alcohol (9%) it’s light- to medium-bodied palate is well balanced with crisp acidity. Luscious and opulent, save it for dessert or for a twist; pour it along with your favourite vodka for icewine martinis! (Lindsay Groves)

**** drink or cellar
Southbrook ‘Triomphe’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $21.95 (117572) 13.4% alcohol

Bright and golden, this full-bodied richly oaked Chardonnay features a nose of fully ripened tree fruits mingling with toasty buttery aromas. The flavors are consistent with luscious pears, spicy apple pie and sweet vanilla. Perceptible citrus acidity balances the fruit and lingers on the long toasty, creamy finish. This was designed for aging and to be poured with pork roast and root veggies. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Strewn Pinot Blanc 2008
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $13.95 (522748) 12.6% alcohol

You don’t see much of this grape in Niagara…pity. The pale straw colour gives way to vibrant aromas and flavors. Rich ripe tree fruit aromas waft from the glass combining with notes of toast and musky honey. Medium bodied, the wine is reminiscent of juicy ripe apples touched with a drop of honeyed lemon. There’s a medium-long finish characterized by refreshing acidity, mineral notes and a hint of toast. Sip on its own or pour with spicy Asian dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Jackson-Triggs ‘Delaine Vineyard’ Cabernet / Merlot 2007 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.95 (989269) 13.7% alcohol 


(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This showcases its breeding—it’s from one of the top vineyard sites in the country—and the warm 2007 vintage. Expressive aromas of ripe cherry, spice-laden black currant and toasty notes soar from the glass. Medium weight with good texture, the rich and complex flavours persist throughout —succulent ripe dark berry fruit, mocha and pie cherry. It’s well sculpted with deft balance, seamlessly integrated oak and firm tannin underpinning. There are adornments of mint and tobacco on the lengthy finish. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Lailey Vineyard Cabernet Merlot 2007 

VQA Niagara River $20.00 13.5% alcohol 


(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) A gorgeous red blend—45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc—offering expressive aromas and rich succulent dark fruit flavour—ripe black currant, tangy pie cherry and spiced black plum galore. This is medium bodied, boldly textured and offers a solid underpinning of perceptible tannin. Decant/aerate two hours before serving and pair it with marinated barbecued flank steak and stuffed green peppers. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar
Le Clos Jordanne ‘La Petite Colline’ Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Twenty Mile Bench $40.00 (33944) 13.5% alcohol

A gem of a wine, this mid-weight Pinot Noir is beautifully balanced and expressive. Consistent in quality with previously released single-vineyard and ‘Villages’ wines, this reveals an outstanding vintage, an award-winning winemaker and the unique sandy loam of the 3-hectare hillside vineyard. It’s a deep burgundy color with aromas of fresh red berries, sweet spice and roses. Fine tannin, fresh acidity, tart fruit and a hint of white pepper are integrated in a lovely tasting experience. The finish lingers along with the ability to linger in your cellar. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Ménage à Trois White 2008
California $17.95 (665166) 13.5% alcohol

An unusual blend of Chardonnay, Moscato and Chenin Blanc, this is an expressively fruity wine with great aromas of ripe tree fruits with some tropical and vanilla notes. These follow through on the palate, where toasty notes are balanced with racy citrus notes. The wine is medium to full bodied, well balanced and integrated with a long fruity finish. Pour and pair with lighter appetizers—veal, chicken or vegetable. (Susan Desjardins)

California: Red Wine

**** drink now
Château St. Jean Merlot 2006
California $19.95 (25304) 14.2% alcohol

A bright semi-transparent ruby color, this medium-bodied Merlot has a lively nose of spicy fruit and a hint of mint. It’s chock full of jammy red berry fruit on the attack followed by refreshing acidity and medium tannin. Well structured, it has a warm mid-length fruity finish. You won’t go wrong pairing this with a meat and seafood paella. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Five Rivers Pinot Noir 2008
California $18.95 (684514) 13.5% acidity

Lightly oaked, this new world Pinot Noir is a lightly hued ruby gem that’s true to the varietal. The expressive nose includes aromas of woodland berries and flowers, as well as sweet spices. Tart red fruits and fresh acidity contribute to the fine balance. Medium bodied, it has a mid-length finish with a hint of minerality dancing with the fresh fruit and spice. Good value and paired well with tourtiere. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Clos de los Siete 2007
Mendoza $23.95 (622571) 14.5% alcohol

From one of the many properties developed by globe-trotting French wine consultant, Michel Rolland, this is a blend of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. It’s deep purple and opaque with a lovely bouquet of dark berry fruit, spices and a hint of earthiness. There’s depth of flavors—blackberries, black currants, plums, spices, white pepper, minerals. A full-bodied, balanced and integrated wine, there’s a long intense dry finish. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: White Wine

**** drink now
d’Arenberg ‘The Hermit Crab’ Viognier/Marsanne 2008
McLaren Vale/Adelaide Hills $17.95 (662775) 13.5% alcohol

A bright pale gold, this blend of Rhône varietals has lots of personality—aromas of pears and apricots mingling with mineral notes. It’s full bodied and tastes just off-dry with a classic hint of Viognier astringency. A portion of the Viognier was aged in older French and American barrels producing a slightly tropical, honeyed character to the fruit flavors. It has nicely balanced acidity and a long luscious finish allowing it to pair perfectly with pan-seared, orange and ginger-spiced tilapia fillets. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now
Yalumba ‘Y Series’ Pinot Grigio 2008
South Australia $15.95 (138586) 12.5% alcohol

Here’s a well-made flavorful Pinot Grigio that you’ll want to taste more than once. It’s quite aromatic, think pears and sweet citrus. Impactful and well balanced, the flavors range from ripe pears through lime and tangerine. It has a clean seam of acidity and spritzy minerality which carries through on the long, fresh fruity finish. This well-priced winner sips well on its own and pours well alongside spiced, lightly breaded and pan-fried calamari rings. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
d’Arenberg ‘The Footbolt’ Shiraz 2006
McLaren Vale $22.95 (984021) 14.5% alcohol

Here’s a substantial deep red wine with loads of aromas and flavors—smoky oak, spices and brambly berry pie. It was barrel fermented and aged in French and American oak. It’s dry and well structured with perceptible tannins. Expect a lengthy finish characterized by cherry and blueberry flavors and a hint of pepper. Drinkable now, it’s built to age for a few more years. When you pop the cork, give it a go with rack of lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now
Greg Norman Shiraz/Cabernet 2007
Limestone Coast $24.95 (586156) 14.5% alcohol

This is a very attractive ruby red wine with well-defined tasty berry and stone fruit aromas. It has lush fruit flavors—raspberry and blueberry—matched by fresh acidity. The tannins are silky and the long finish offers notes of spicy cedar, pepper and cocoa. A finely balanced wine delivering good bang for your buck. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Penmara ‘Reserve’ Shiraz 2007
Orange $19.95 (912782) 14.0% alcohol

Vivid and bright with a slightly purple robe, this is a mid to full-weight Shiraz with expressive aromas of berry fruit and spicy oak. Sourced from premium fruit, the flavors are ripe berries and dark chocolate. Well-integrated acidity and tannins create a balanced wine with a lengthy, dry finish. Try it with Manchego cheese or your favorite barbequed meat. (Susan Desjardins)

New Zealand: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Sileni ‘The Triangle’ Merlot 2007
Hawkes Bay $17.95 (586081)

Ruby red, this aromatic wine brings to mind summer flowers mingling with sweet stone and berry fruit. Lovely fruit flavors—ripe cherries, blackberries and plums—join with a nuance of black pepper that replays on the long fruity finish. Medium to full bodied, the wine is dry and well structured. Drinking beautifully now, it will easily cellar for 4-6 years. (Susan Desjardins)

France: White Wine

****1/2 drink now
Pierre Sparr ‘Réserve’ Gewürztraminer 2008
AOC Alsace $17.95 (747600) 13.5% alcohol

With its golden hue and viscous quality, this delivers intense and classic aromas of rose water, lychee nut and sweet tropical fruits. There’s a well-balanced ratio of acidity to fruit as well as some refreshing slightly bitter note. The finish is long and lingering with all components in delightful equilibrium. At this price, one bottle may not be enough. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
La Chablisienne Sauvignon Blanc ‘Saint-Bris’ 2008
AOC Chablis $14.95 (641753) 12.5% alcohol

Crisp, bright and tangy, this is not a commonly seen varietal from Chablis. Nonetheless, it’s a lovely wine with classic aromas and flavors of Sauvignon Blanc—gooseberry, some grassiness, and a floral note. It’s light to medium weight, tart and refreshing with a medium-long finish characterized by citrus fruit and a pleasant tartness. It’s also very good value. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

**** drink now
Château La Bouscade ‘Old Vine’ Carignan 2007
AOC Minervois $18.95 (78758) 14.5% alcohol

Not often found as a single varietal, this is a medal-winning inky, opaque Carignan from the south of France produced from the fruit of 60-year-old vines. It has lovely aromas of tart berries, leather and cassis, as well as a savory note. Fresh acidity complements the dark berry, spice and smoky oak flavors. It’s consistent and well made, medium bodied with a mid-length fruity finish. Lovely on its own, it matches up well with roast leg of lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
La Réserve du Crouzau St. Gervais 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $14.95 (142943) 15.0% alcohol

The inky black color suggests very ripe and highly extracted fruit. The lush aromas of cassis and black berry set a theme that persists throughout with plush jammy fruit, vanilla and spice—and everything nice—on the palate. Despite the high alcohol, the wine has quite good balance and structure. The finish is long, toasty and somewhat dry. At this attractive price you can enjoy a few bottles. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now
Château Bellevue la Forêt 2006
AOC Fronton $12.95 (198085) 13.0% alcohol

A unique blend of Négrette—particular to this appellation—Syrah, Gamay, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon; this very interesting wine is produced on the largest single family-owned estate in Southwestern France. It has aromas of slightly charred oak and plummy ripe fruit. The fruit, acidity and tannin integrate into a rich, mouth-filling wine with a long, dry finish. This is great value at the price—scoop up an armful. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar two glasses
Apollonio ‘Valle Cupa’ 2001 

IGT Salento Rosso $19.95 (084046) 


We both loved this. (Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This is a gorgeous effort that delivers on all counts, and then some. Earthy, toasty and smoked bacon aromas rip off the glass of this medium-bodied fully textured red blend. There’s a wave of cassis, spice box and black raspberry flavours that carry through to the lengthy, fruit-forward, but balanced finish. A somewhat hedonistic tasting experience, it will still be drinking well into 2012. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Barone Ricásoli ‘Rocca Guicciarda’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
DOCG Chianti Classico $24.95 (943613) 13.5% alcohol

Intensely coloured and expressing rich aromas of plums, leather and spicy floral notes, this is a richly flavored and full-bodied beauty. The texture is soft and silky with flavours of dark berries and classic acidity. The tannins are fine and well integrated. This is an absolutely lovely wine with a long, elegant finish. A classic—stop reading, start driving, stock up. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ruffino ‘Lodola Nuova’ Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2006
DOCG Montepulciano $23.95 (332411) 14.0% alcohol

Mainly Sangiovese, this semi-transparent ruby red Tuscan is characterized by well-developed berry aromas with notes of spice and cocoa. It’s dry and full bodied with noticeable acidity and great red berry flavors. It’s a food wine—rare-grilled strip loin and stuffed bell pepper pairs well—with an ability to cellar as marked by the emphatic tannin. It also has a long expressive finish. This is well balanced offering up a quality red at a fair price. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Ruffino ‘Santedame’ Chianti Classico 2007
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (523076) 14.0% alcohol

This is a straight forward well-priced Chianti with a vibrant nose of mature dark berries, herbs and spices. There’s an interesting range of flavors—cherries, chocolate, vanilla—as well as firm tannins and typically refreshing acidity. It’s medium to full bodied, well integrated and satisfying. The finish is long with nuances of black pepper. Give it a go with marinated grilled hangar steak with grilled sliced red pepper and onion. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Monte Zovo ‘Sa’ Solin’ Ripasso della Valpolicella
DOC Valpolicella $17.95 (650713) 14.5% alcohol

We see this most vintages and it’s always welcomed back. Opening with a lively nose of fresh ripe berries and a hint of mint and spice, this is a real crowd pleaser. It’s soft and full bodied with flavors of berry jam, sweet spices and a hint of char. The tannins and acidity are restrained and the finish lingers with notes of char and ripe red stone fruit. (Susan Desjardins)

Portugal: Red Wine

**** drink now
Quinta do Infantado Red 2007
DOC Douro $23.95 (95158) 14.0% alcohol

From one of the few family-owned Port houses in Portugal, it’s inky black in the glass. Look for persistent aromas and flavors—ripe black plum, smoky oak and spice—consistent throughout. It’s full bodied, somewhat dry, yet smooth with good balancing acidity. There’s a beautiful texture and a long dry finish complementing the rich ripe fruit. It’s perfectly paired with osso bucco and mushroom risotto. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
São Miguel dos Descobridores Colheita Seleccionada 2007
Vinho Regional Alentejano $13.95 (146092) 13.5% alcohol

This is an interesting blend of some of the indigenous grapes traditionally used in Port, as well as Tempranillo. It has aromas of toasty, earthy minerality, and ripe berry fruit on the nose. The palate is awash with dark brambly fruit, cocoa and warm sweet spices. It’s a well-made and good-value wine, medium to full bodied with a spicy fruity finish. Drink it now with friends and grilled chorizo. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Ontario Wineries

***1/2 drink now
frogpondfarm 'Organic' Riesling 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake 500 mL $12.00 11.9% alcohol

The expressive aromas of mineral, slate and precursors to petrol mingling with floral notes roll easily off the glass of this zesty refreshing number. Look for racy and tangy flavours of lemon-lime, white grapefruit and lip-smacking crisp, green apple. From 'Ontario's only certified organic winery', it finishes dry, crisp and mouth-watering good; especially when served with herbed pan-seared trout or salmon under a generous squirt of freshly squeezed lemon. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
frogpondfarm 'Organic' Cabernet Franc 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $17.00 12.9% alcohol

Expressive aromas of toasty oak, aromatic bitters and spiced dark berry fruit waft from this tasty number. It’s well balanced and brimming with flavour—ripe black juicy cherry and zesty spiced black plum. The tannins are ripe, silky and perceptible, adding structure and interest. Give this a go with strip loin or rib eye, grilled rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)

*** drink now
frogpondfarm 'Organic' Cabernet-Merlot 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake 500 mL $16.00 13.2% alcohol

From Niagara’s exceptionally fine red-wine vintage of 2007, this offers aromas of savoury green herb, wisps of oak and espresso roast. The mouth-filling flavours—fresh cranberry and spiced pomegranate—are underpinned by barely perceptible tannin, leafiness and a persistent stream of pie cherry tang. This ratchets up a notch poured alongside roast leg of lamb rubbed and decorated with sprigs of rosemary served with mint jelly. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 starsWines of excellence
3 starsWines well worth trying
2  starsWines below average, but drinkable
1 starWines better avoided, unless desperate
half starRepresents a half star
2 glassesWe agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar