Vic Harradine is visiting wineries in Australia and New Zealand, and all the reviews for the February 19 Vintages release are by Rod Phillips. 

Vic has contributed reviews to other sections, including notes on a number of Australian wines that will be featured in future Vintages releases.

Consult our rating system for a description of the symbols we use when rating a wine.

Vintages Release February 19, 2005

White wines

****1/2 drink now
Inniskillin "Dark Horse Estate Vineyard" Chardonnay 2002
VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia  $17.95 (590372)
A rich, creamy-textured Chardonnay with up-front fruit (peach, pear, tropical) and well-balanced acidity. It's quite stylish and shows the excellence that comes from the West. Pair this with grilled chicken with a tropical fruit salsa. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Barossa Valley Estates "Ebenezer" Chardonnay 2001
Barossa Valley, South Australia $29.95 (976324)
Wine-lovers may be more familiar with the Ebenezer reds from Barossa Estates, a company owned by the grape-growers who provide the fruit.  This white reaches the same quality, with elegant and complex floral and peach aromas, excellent balance, and good structure. Try it with grilled swordfish. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Esk Valley Estate "Black Label" Chardonnay 2003
Hawkes Bay, New Zealand $19.95 (595538)
Lovely fruit complexity here, with the balance more toward peach and pear than toward the tropical spectrum. There's a pleasant warm toastiness to the aromas, too, but the oak is well-enough handled that it doesn't cloud the purity of the fruit. Good balance, smooth in the mouth, this pairs well with grilled white fish. (RP)

**** drink now
Sacred Hill "Whitecliff" Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Hawkes Bay, New Zealand $14.95 (651802)
This is very well priced and shows that Marlborough doesn't have a stranglehold on Sauvignon Blanc. The aromas and flavours are al passion fruit. (If you don't know passion fruit, Loblaws has them from time to time: make sure you buy one that has wrinkled skin.) The fruit is as pungent and the acidity as zesty as you expect from a NZ Sauvignon Blanc. Screwcap-sealed for freshness. Great with oysters, of course. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Fairview Viognier 2003
WO Paarl, South Africa $19.95 (906487)
Just a very fine Viognier from one of South Africa's best wineries. It has focused ripe fruit, elegant structure, clean acidity and a hint of warmth from the 14.5% alcohol. Vintages suggests spiced shrimp, and I second that. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
St Donatus Muscat Ottonel 2003
Balaton, Transdanubia, Hungary $10.95 (608497)
Lovely flora and Muscat aromas with hints of peach and apricot. The texture is smooth, and this is made in an off-dry style that works very well with spicy seafood dishes. (RP)

Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Château des Charmes Cabernet Franc 1999
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (277236)
The 1999 vintage in Niagara has too often been overshadowed by the more spectacular 1998, but this Cab Franc shows what 1999 was capable of in the right hands. It's just a finely-made wine, with a middle seam of clean, ripe fruit that's interwoven with poised acidity and soft tannins. Medium to full bodied and  smooth-textured, it's perfect for red meat with saut�d wild mushrooms. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Thomas & Vaughan Marechal Foch 2002
VQA Ontario $14.95 (585968)
Funny how hybrids like Marechal Foch were reviled not so long ago as varieties that Canadian wineries should say good riddance to. But in the hands of a good winemaker, they make very good wine? like this one.  It has rich meaty, beet flavours that shade into sweet berry and plum. The texture is fleshy and it's well balanced.  Try it with spicy beef dishes. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Quails' Gate Estate "Family Reserve" Gamay Noir 2002
VQA Okanagan Valley, B.C. $29.95 (590679)
If you think all Gamay tastes like the fresh, fruity, lighter styles of Beaujolais, try this full-fruit wonder from one of Okanagan's best wineries. Lovely intense dark fruit here, with good acidity, fine balance, and good weight. The alcohol is 15%, but you wouldn't know it. Pair this with a veal chop in a rich, spicy tomato sauce. (RP)

**** drink now
Gray Monk Pinot Noir 2002
VQA Okanagan Valley $15.95 (251835)
The hospitable folk at Gray Monk have produced a very stylish and well-priced Pinot here. Look for aromas and flavours of sweet and tart cherries, with soft tannins and good length. Overall, very successful and ideal for lighter dishes like grilled salmon. (RP)

***** drink or cellar
Eberle Cabernet Sauvignon 2000
Paso Robles, California $19.95 (680835)
A California Cab, but not from the Napa. Paso Robles is attracting a lot of attention these days, and with wine like this, no wonder. It shows concentrated, complex dark fruit with firm but approachable tannins and good acidity. It's beautifully made and will pair well now with rare steak or lamb. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Estancia Estates Meritage 2000
Alexander Valley, California $35.95 (975920)
The soft texture is one of the attractive features of this wine. The others include the rich, complex flavours (plum, cherry, cassis) and the perfect balance of fruit and acidity. It makes for a marvelous package, and this will enhance all manner of red meat dishes. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Francis Coppola "Blue Label" Merlot 2002
California $27.95 (595686)
Here's a wine that shouts New World in the best sense. The fruit is luscious and forward, the acidity is balanced, and the tannins are bulky and prominent. Somehow it manages to achieve equilibrium between in-your-face and under-stated/brooding.  Pair it with nothing less than a hunk of rare-grilled red meat. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Firestone "Estate" Merlot 2001
Santa Ynez Valley, California $22.95 (982744)
This contains 14 per cent Cabernet Franc, which adds a little structure and complexity to the Merlot.  The flavours (cherry, berry, plum) are concentrated and plush, and the tannins are firm but drinking now.  Pair it with roast game. (RP)
 
****1/2 drink or cellar
Amity Pinot Noir 2000
Willamette Valley, Oregon $22.95 (965756]
Myron Redford is one of the characters of the Oregon wine scene, and makes wine in an idiosyncratic winery on top of a hill. Whatever he does, it works. Here he gives us a good-value Pinot Noir (a Willamette Valley specialty) with a seam of pure, sweet fruit running right through its core. The tannins are grippy, the finish is long, and the whole thing is well made. Try this with a rack of lamb. Medium rare. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ravenswood "Old Vines" Zinfandel 2001
Amador County, Sierra Foothills, California $23.95 (7325030)
This stands out above most of the Zins available. It's a big, hearty, in-your-face sort of Zin, with hefty dark fruit, firm sweet tannins, and good acid balance. In-your-face but not in your way if you want to dine while drinking it. It goes well with spicy beef dishes, like well-seasoned beef stew. (RP)

***** drink or cellar
Goundrey Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Mt Barker, Western Australia $21.95 (922195)
Goundrey (owned by Canada's Vincor) makes excellent wines and here's another.  The dark fruit is pure, concentrated and saturated, with complexity a-plenty. The tannins are firm but manageable now if you just can't wait to taste it, and the length is very good. It's stylish and very well priced. Pair it with grilled/roast game. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Tyrrell's "Lost Block" Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Victorian Alps, Australia $17.5 (595678) 
Excellent value. For under $18 you get a bottle of well-structured Cab, with intense, complex dark fruit flavours, great balance, and good length. The tannins are sweet and softening, but you can still hold this for a few years if you want to buy a few bottles. It's screwcap-sealed to keep the fruit fresh. Drink it with rich red meat dishes. (RP)

***** cellar
D'Arenberg "The Coppermine Road" Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
McLaren Vale, South Australia $48.95 (943399)
Step away from the corkscrew! Don't even think about opening this until the end of the decade at the earliest.  It's a huge, tannic, high alcohol (14.5%) fruit-bomb, black and inky, that needs time to integrate and develop a little refinement. Once it does that, it'll be a beautiful wine.  You could put this down for a child born in 2001. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Wolf Blass "Gold Label" Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc 2001
Adelaide Hills, South Australia $29.95 (590265)
The Gold Label is notable (a) because nearly all the wines are under screwcap and (b) the wines are consistently successful. This Cabernet blend shows a really elegant texture and deft handling of oak. The purity of the fruit has been maintained, and the tannins are fine and supple. Drink it now and to the end of the decade.  With red meat. (RP)

***** drink or cellar
Rosemount Estate "Traditional" Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Petit Verdot 2001
McLaren Vale, South Australia $35.95 (484097)
It's not often we get to taste a winner of the Jimmy Watson Trophy, Australia's most prestigious wine award. And to taste at this price is even better.  You get a simply gorgeous blend with full-on fruit, smooth texture, elegant structure, and firm tannins. Drink t now and for the next en years, perhaps with richly-seasoned lamb. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Angove's "Red Belly Black" Shiraz 2002
South Australia $16.95 (640557)
This is the first vintage of Red Belly Black, named after an unpleasant-looking, two-toned, venomous snake, which is found in various parts of Australia-including Sydney, where Vic Harradine is spending February. I'll stick to the vinous, rather than venomous, variety. This is great value, with intense black (of course!) fruit aromas and flavours and good, food-friendly acidity.  Great with rare steak. (RP)

***** drink or cellar
Chateau Reynella "Basket Pressed Shiraz 2001
McLaren Vale, South Australia $29.95 (510628)
Beautiful toasty black fruit on the nose, with the oak retreating to a more subtle note on the palate and giving way to vanilla and spice nuances. Just lovely flavours and a silky texture make this a winner in every way. Pair it up with well garlicked medium-rare grilled lamb. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Barossa Valley Estate "Ebenezer" Shiraz 2001
Barossa Valley, South Australia $38.95 (971705)
Many people wait for this every year, so don't wait too long if you want some. This has elegant dark fruit with eucalyptus and pepper notes, full, smooth texture, and firm tannins. Drink it now with rare red meat or stash it away for up to ten years. (RP)

***** cellar
Yalumba "The Signature" Cabernet/Shiraz 1999
Barossa Valley, South Australia $44.95 (528356)
Best to hide this one quickly, because it would be a total pity to open it this side of 2010. This has what you'd call 'brooding depth'. It's all dark fruit, tightly wound and astringently tannic.  Given it peace and quiet for five years, and it will relax, round out, soften, and reward your patience a hundred-fold. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Vidal Estate Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2002
Hawkes Bay, New Zealand $19.95 (700617)
Another screwcap-sealed wine from Kiwi-land, where the corkscrews are rusting through lack of use. Sweet dark fruit are to the fore here, with good structure, firm tannins and good acidity.  Lamb is the natural food suggestion. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Fairview Goats do Roam in Villages Red 203
WO Paarl, South Africa $14.95 (566851)
The Vintages catalogue (page 60) has an amusing account of Fairview's struggle with the wine associations in France's Rhône region over their use of the "Goats do Roam" brand. All they're doing is providing him with publicity for the very good wines, like this well-made, very well-priced blend.  It's got good fruit, good structure, good everything, and it gets a very good rating for its price. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tittarelli Finca El Retiro Syrah 2001
Mendoza, Argentina $11.95 (928283)
Wines from Argentina offer exceptional value, but this one just about beats them all. It's a fruit-bomb with saturated black fruit, good structure, nice tannins, very good balance? all for under $12. The only excuse not to buy lots of this is that it's sold out. Drink it with anything from hamburgers to steak to beef stew to hearty vegetarian dishes. (RP)
 
****1/2 drink or cellar
Concha y Toro "Trio" Merlot 2003
Rapel Valley, Chile $13.95 (433920)
It's called Trio because there are three varieties here: Merlot (65%), Carmenère (20%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (15%).  How can they call it Merlot if it's only 65% Merlot? I don't know, because a Chilean wine must contain at least 75% of the label variety. I suspect they can combine Merlot and Carmenère (which was thought to be Merlot for many decades).  Anyway, this is wonderful value, given that the wine has a soft texture, concentrated dark fruit flavours and sweet tannic structure. An amazing price for wine of this quality. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Biondi Santi Sassoalloro 2001
IGT Tuscany, Italy $32.95 (981407)
This Sangiovese-dominant wine has bright, fresh plum and berry fruit, with spice and earthy notes.  The tannins are grippy and there's lots of good acidity that makes it food-friendly.  Hold it three years or so, then open it with osso bucco. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Pesquera Crianza 2001
DO Ribera del Duero, Spain $27.95 (341461)
One of those complex wines that has you sniffing and tasting over and over to see what else you can find. Among the descriptors in my notes: mulberry, raspberry, plum, strawberry, blackberry, pepper, spice?. It has fine, forward tannins and a good acid spine. You could drink it now (with game) but you'd be happier in the long run if you held it for five years. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Casa de la Ermita Crianza 2001
DO Jumilla, Spain $17.95 (956334)
Juicy, well structured, with up-front dark fruit with mocha and tar notes, this Mourvèdre-dominant blend has brisk acidity, firm tannins, and a long, generous finish. Stewed rabbit with prunes comes to mind. (RP)

               
UP-STREAM ON WINECURRENT.COM

(Wines to watch for in upcoming Vintages releases)

June/July 2005
***** drink or cellar
Brokenwood Semillon 2004
Hunter Valley, Australia $19.25 
An internationally-acclaimed classic from the traditional home of Australian Semillon. Tantalizing lifted notes of citrus and floral waft from the yellowy-green wine now, but in 7 or 8 years these will develop into the treasured honey, almond aromatics and flavours. This is a magnificent example of a wine to be drunk now (with oysters or lobster) in its youth, fresh and exuberant, and to be kept another 7+ years to experience the mature wine, creamy, honeyed and rich. Fruit and acidity are in perfect balance. (VH)


****1/2 cellar
Brokenwood 'Cricket Pitch' 2003
South Eastern Australia $19.95 
Unlike their 'Graveyard' series (planned, but never utilized as such) some of these vines stand on a former cricket pitch in the Hunter. A 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Semillon blend, the nose has hints of gooseberries, overlaid with herbaceous and citrus notes. The tangy fruit balances off the laser-like cleansing finish. There is enough texture, citrus and toasty highlights (from lightly-spared oak) to match with lemon chicken. (VH)

****cellar
Brokenwood Chardonnay 2004
South Eastern Australia $21.95 (960492)
Toasty, leesy aromatics lead the way to this medium-bodied well structured white. Lovely white peach and nectarine flavours coat the palate whilst the lengthy finish is clean with a solid apple and pear tang. Veal, grilled fish and pasta in a creamy white sauce would all pair well. Very good value. (VH)


****cellar
Brokenwood 'Wade Block 2' Shiraz 2002
McLaren Vale, Australia $55.00 (681171)
Profusely lifted nose of black pepper, plums and currants followed by a mélange of ripe fruit flavours including black cherries and spiced figs. The good grip in this strongly textured red portends optimum drinking in 3 to 10 years. The finish is still a bit furry, but time will transform this into a top drop. (VH)

*****cellar
Brokenwood 'Rayner Vineyard' Shiraz 2002
McLaren Vale, Australia $60.00 (903922)
From unirrigated 50 year old vines, this could easily grace a table with Henschke's Hill of Grace. Characteristic aromatics of mint, pepper, plums and spice announce an astounding burst of crushed black fruit flavours that are, for now, wrapped in an almost austere tannic structure. Previous personal tastingsand international awards(the '99 awarded "Best red wine in the world" at London Int. Challenge and this '02 vintage a Decanter Gold) holdpromise of a glorious wine of stunning character and elegance in 10 to 15 years. A trophy wine for the serious oenophile. (VH)


NEW IN VINTAGES

**** drink now
Lindemans 'Reserve' Chardonnay 2003
South Australia $14.95 (415067)
A complex nose offering up brioche, pink grapefruit and cinnamon. The 6 months of French and American oak has provided a beautiful texture and willing partner to the elegantly structured pit fruit flavours and tangy acidity. Over 80% of fruit was sourced from the legendary Padthaway region. Long and luxurious, the finish is marvelously clean, crying out for a roast chicken or creamy pasta dish. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Lindemans Reserve Shiraz 2003
South Australia, Australia $15.95 (482299)
Replacing the former 'Padthaway' Shiraz, this medium-bodied red offers up rich aromatics of spice and black pepper. The silky smooth tannins add structure while the sweet core of black cherry and licorice flavours add complexity to the palate and lengthy finish. Drink now and over the next 3 years with rack of pepper encrusted lamb. (VH)

****1/2drink or cellar
Rosemount Estate 'Show Reserve' Chardonnay 2003
Hunter Valley, Australia $25.95 (324772)
Gorgeous aromatics of fig, pineapple and oak are followed by a glorious flavour profile of Granny Smith apples, lemon/lime and toasty caramel. This has hints of Burgundy in its backbone with a cornucopia of new world fruit. It finishes lengthy and smooth with hints of almonds and apricots. (VH) 


NEW IN THE LCBO

Australia

***1/2drink now
Lindemans 'Bin 50' Shiraz 2004
South Eastern Australia $11.95 (614776) 
Offers up a fresh nose of sweet plums, spice and cherries as an entry to a good quaffing wine offering excellent value. This medium-bodied red is nicely balanced from the black ripe fruit on the palate to the fresh fruity finish. Try it with lasagna or pasta with a spicy tomato sauce. (VH)

***1/2drink now
Rosemount Estate 'Diamond' Chardonnay 2004
South Eastern Australia $14.45 (265132)
Apricot, citrus and tropical melon aromas provide a nice entry to this medium-bodied perennial favourite of Aussies and Canucks. Only a hint of oak wafting from the short (old) barrique ageing. Beautifully textured and well balanced with the sweet peach flavour and citrussy finishing notes in perfect harmony. (VH)

***1/2drink now
Wyndham Estate 'Bin 777' Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2004
South Australia $11.05 (342035)
Fresh and fruity, this delightful easy drinking white offers citrus and apple aromas. It is light to medium body and has a well balanced fruit / acidity ratio that leaves the palate clean and refreshed. Predominantly Semillon, it offers very good value. As with most wise producers, these ready to drink wines are now under Stelvin cap. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Angove's Bear Crossing Chardonnay 2003
South Australia $11.95 (592758)
A well-made, well-priced, medium-bodied Chardonnay that's fruity (tropical, peach), well balanced and very versatile with food.  Try it with herbed roast chicken. (RP)


****drink now
Wyndham Estate 'Bin 222' Chardonnay 2004
South Eastern Australia $ 11.95 (93401)
Tropical fruit and leesy aromatics start the show of this extremely well-priced perennial favourite. The creamy texture is well complimented by apricot and peach flavours with a curtain call of a clean citrussy finish. Difficult to find better wine with this profile at this price point. A winecurrent.com exceptional value pick. (VH)

***1/2drink now
Wyndham Estate 'Bin 333' Pinot Noir 2003
South Eastern Australia $13.75 (179242)
The nose has confectionary and blueberry nuances and is coupled with a palate that is all fresh fruit (sour cherries, cranberries) driven. A light to medium textured red with a nice clean finish of cleansing acidity and plums. It is well priced, fresh, fruity and ready to drink. (VH)

****drink now
Wyndham Estate 'Bin 444' Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
South Eastern Australia $ 14.95 (110486)
A lifted nose of smoky black currants and a hint of cassis greet the taster, promising more in the glass and this one delivers. Almost full-bodied, the silky smooth tannins are partnered with a creamy texture (French and American oak), heaps of dense black fruit characteristics and a lengthy fruit driven finish that showcases careful and deft handling of the fruit and the oak. Well made and well priced. (VH)

****1/2drink now
Wyndham Estate 'Bin 999' Merlot 2002
South Eastern Australia $ 14.95 (336347)
Spicy, heavily extracted plum aromatics coupled with oak vanillin blast from the glass. The soft palate is like heavy cream laced with rich black crushed cherries and plums. This red has it all including a lengthy finish and beautiful balance.  Stock up when you see it.  A clutch of show medals and awards from around the world may put even this (lots produced) in short supply. (VH)


France

***1/2 drink now
Noémie Vernaux Pisse-Dru Brouilly 2003
AOC Brouilly, Beaujolais $14.55 (614024)
Beaujolais too often gets a bad rap, and sometimes I think the Nouveau strategy has not only had its day, but is starting to be counterproductive. Sell the wine as Gamay, and it might do much better.  This example has juicy red fruit (cherry, plum, berries) with a good dose of acidity and light tannins. Really, it's very good drinking with a dish like veal in a tomato-based sauce.  (RP)

*** drink now
Jeanjean Arabesque Chardonnay 2003
Vin de Pays d'Oc, France $9.05 (630681)
From the south of France, a nicely-made and well-priced Chardonnay with flavours of apple, pear, mineral, and a touch of tropical fruit. Light and crisp, it's a good partner for seafood and simple white fish. Look for the funky bottle. (RP)

****drink now
Gustave Lorentz Pinot Gris 2003
AOC Alsace, France $14.95 (649780)
From Alsace, home of notable Pinot Gris, this is very good value. It shows quite luscious fruit (peach, apricot) and has good balancing acidity. It's mouth-filling and pairs very well with spicy chicken and pork dishes. If the only Pinot Gris you know is Italian Pinot Grigio, try this for an utterly different experience. (RP)


Italy

*** drink now
Villa Ginnetti Velletri Superiore 2003
DOC Velletri, Italy $7.95 (69809)
A crisp, refreshing white blend (Trebbiano, Malvasia) from the hills south of Rome. Look for lighter fruit flavours (apple, pear, citrus) and good acidity that pair up well with seafood and simple white fish dishes. (RP)

Spain

**** drink now
Castillo de Almansa Reserva 2001
DO Almansa, Spain $9.90 (270363)
This is one of the great bargains at the LCBO, and the latest vintage has just arrived.  Castillo de Almansa is a blend of Tempranillo, Mourvèdre/Monastrell and Grenache/Garnacha that makes for a fruit-forward red with spicy notes and a juicy, generous texture. Medium weight and lightly tannic, it pairs well with rich red meat dishes like lamb stew. (RP)


NEW IN ONTARIO WINERIES

**** drink or cellar
Thomas & Vaughan Cabernet Franc Estate Reserve 2000
VQA Niagara Peninsula $26.95 
Thomas & Vaughan quickly established a reputation for stunning estate-grown Cabernet Franc, and this vintage shows why.  The 2000 Cabernet Franc shows a lot of varietal typicity, with flavours of spicy red fruit and subtle green notes that act as a brake on red ripeness rather than add unripe notes.  It's medium bodied with approachable tannins, and is ready to drink now and in the next four-five years.  It's great with a veal chop in a red wine reduction. Available only from the winery, which you can contact via the link at winecurrent.com (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham "Speck Family Reserve" Cabernet-Merlot 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $50 (616433)
This is one of a new series of super-premium wines from Henry of Pelham, already well-known for their Cab-Merlots, and it deserves all its advance billing.  The fruit is exceptionally well focused, and expresses the superlative growing conditions of 2002.  The fruit-acid-tannin balance is almost perfect, and the wine is stylistically elegant, with a long finish. Pair it with a dish that will bring out the best in both, like well-herbed rack of lamb, grilled medium-rare. Available only from the winery, so order yours using the link at winecurrent.com (RP)  

**** drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham "Speck Family Reserve" Chardonnay 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $35.00 (616466)
This gives you an opulent mouthful of pure, ripe fruit. Peach, pear and tropical fruit are all there, but in a restrained, elegant style, not the in-your-face mode, and there are hints of caramel and smoke to add complex dimensions. The oak is well handled, and enhances the fruit qualities. With a smooth, creamy texture and a long finish, this successfully expresses the quality Henry of Pelham is known for. Order directly from the winery, using the link at winecurrent.com. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham "Speck Family Reserve" Pinot Noir 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $40.00
A fine, elegant, Pinot Noir that confirms Henry of Pelham as one of Niagara's premier red wine producers, and Pinot Noir as one of Niagara's premier grape varieties. This is a medium-bodied Pinot with substantial fruit (sweet dark cherry and mulberry predominant) and spicy, earthy notes. The fruit flows right through the palate and there's a long, sweet fruit finish.  The tannins are supple. Pair this with well-seasoned grilled lamb chops. At winecurrent.com you'll find a link to the winery, where you can order this wine. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Jackson-Triggs Proprietors' Reserve Merlot 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95
Another well-made Merlot from the stellar 2002 vintage. Look for ripe dark fruit, good acidity, light tannins and good length. It's well-priced for the quality, and is a natural for a veal chop in a red wine reduction. Available from the winery and in Wine Rack stores. (RP)


NEW IN RESTAURANTS

****1/2 drink or cellar
J.M. Moueix Clos Beauregard 2001
AOC Pomerol, Bordeaux $448.20/case
A blend of Merlot (60%), Cabernet Franc (30%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%). Everything about this wine says it's classy and elegant. The aromas are refined, with ripe plum, cassis and mixed berries, with peppery, spicy and smoky notes. They replay on the palate, where the wine is well-balanced, medium-bodied, and has a smooth, even silky, texture.  All in all, this is very well made, beautifully proportioned, and a perfect foil to a well-herbed rack of lamb. You can get more information or order it from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
J. M. Moueix Château la Tour du Pin Figeac 2001
AOC Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux $697.80/case
A red blend (Merlot 70%, Cabernet Franc 30%) in a classic right-bank Bordeaux style, with restrained red and black fruit (plum, cherry, cassis, mulberry) with spicy, smoky notes. It's smooth textured with approachable, supple tannins and is one of those serious wines that give great pleasure.  Pair it with fairly well-seasoned red meat and game dishes. Look for it on wine lists, or get more information or order from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Nicolis Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2000
DOCG Amarone della Valpolicella Classico $55.00 (598219)
Featured in Vintages Classics Catalogue (Winter 2005), this is an Amarone with understated power and finesse. The aromas are all sweet dried fruit with tart cherry notes, and they replay well on the palate where fresh fruit come through strongly.  With near-perfect fruit-acid equilibrium and a long, complex finish, it's just a delight to drink. Drink it now (decant an hour or two in advance) or cellar another five years. A perfect match for well-seasoned game dishes.  To buy, contact Rob Groh at www.robgroh.com (RP)


Cheers!

Rod and Vic