Winecurrent

December 5, 2009 Vintages Release

This Vintages catalogue begins with a glossy feature on ‘holiday wines’, many with bubbles, and photos of cuisine dishes—the recipes for those in the back of the book. Up next is the familiar country/region format found in the ‘Main Release’ with winecurrent reviewed wines in the order of the Vintages Release catalogue. 


Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

  • It’s that time of year – Check out Champagne and sparkling wine in the Main Release and the many categories following it, including 2 interesting ‘Gift Packs’.
  • The reign in Spain – Spanish red wines continue to rule—it’s a go-to place for wines with structure and complexity that punch well above their price.
  • Finding Waldo –There’s a 4 star for under $8, while Susan and Vic found 3 they both loved—look for two glasses
  • Virtual winery – In the ‘New in Ontario Wineries’ section there’s also a new virtual winery with a limited-production red—it’s certainly worth a long look.
An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

The Main Release

Champagne

**** drink now
Georges Gardet ‘Cuvée Saint Flavy’ Brut Champagne Non-Vintage 

AOC Champagne $39.95 (924654) 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This has an attractive nose of mineral, floral and heady citrus notes. There’s a lovely attack on the palate with a rush of white grapefruit and green apple flavours infused with spice and mineral nuances. It’s medium in weight and texture and offers a lingering finish that’s zesty and clean. There’s enough oomph for it to be paired with light appetizers and the attractive price allows it to be served as the welcoming wine at large gatherings. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
J. Lassale ‘Préférence’ Brut Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $48.95 (027615) 12.0% alcohol
This bolts out of the gate with alluring aromas of biscuit, brioche, and boatloads of fine-bead bubbles. It’s crisp and refreshing in the mouth sporting good weight and a nice texture delivering tree fruit, zesty citrus and Granny Smith apple right through the mouth-watering finish. It’s lovely as a welcoming wine, an aperitif or paired with appetizers and lighter mains. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

**** drink now
Domaine Chandon Blanc de Noirs Sparkling Wine Non-Vintage

California $23.95 (0100693) 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) With a pale coppery-straw colour in the glass, the bouquet has notes of fresh country flowers, grass, apples and tree fruit. In the mouth it’s dry and medium bodied with 13% alcohol, a velvety mousse and medium acidity. Some light red fruit and vanilla bean flavours also come across on the palate. (Lindsay Groves)

****1/2 drink now
Roederer Estate Brut Sparkling Wine Non-Vintage

Anderson Valley $28.95 (0294181) 12.0% alcohol

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Made from 100% estate grown grapes, this sparkler is an assemblage of four different vineyards and some of the reserve wines are oak aged resulting in great complexity and roundness on the palate. Aromas of apple, pear and lightly toasted coconut are displayed on the nose followed by sweeter, riper fruit on the palate. In the mouth it’s dry and medium bodied with bright acidity, a creamy mousse and 12% alcohol. (Lindsay Groves)

**** drink now
No. 1 Family Estate ‘Cuvée No. 1’ Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Wine Non-Vintage
Marlborough, South Island $36.95 (056358) 12.5% alcohol
Tantalizing aromas of lemon biscuit and orange blossom segue a gorgeous attack of energetic mousse that delivers full-bore flavours of persimmon, lemon-lime and oodles of racy citrus. It’s crisp and refreshing on the aftertaste with green apple mingling with spice-infused yellow plum. This has the oomph and character for you to pair with spicy Asian cuisine appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Domaine Louis Bouillot ‘Perle D’Aurore’ Brut Rosé Sparkling Wine Non-Vintage

AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $18.95 (0048793) 12.0% alcohol

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Made from Pinot Noir and Gamay Noir in the traditional method, this sparkling is a pretty pale copper-salmon colour with a berry-floral nose. Very fresh and delicate with a creamy mousse, crisp acidity, 12% alcohol and medium bodied. There are also some nice peppery notes on the palate. I was very impressed by this wine, especially for the price, it’s a great bargain. (Lindsay Groves)

**** drink now
Santa Margherita Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Brut Sparkling Wine Non-Vintage
DOC Prosecco di Valdobbiadene $17.95 (687582) 11.5% alcohol
Mineral and floral on the nose this dishes out a surprisingly generous texture and more flavour and structure than the breeding and price would suggest—this is good value. The mousse is abundant and infused with good texture and flavour—tangy white grapefruit, red currant and lemon chiffon pie. Serve to guests as they arrive and pair with stand-around sea food appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château des Charmes Vidal Icewine 2006 

VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $25.95 (0565861) 200 ml 9.5% alcohol

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Rich aromas of petrol, apple, citrus, honey and pear. Sweet and medium bodied in the mouth with low alcohol (9.5%) and balanced acidity. This would go perfectly with a simple crème brulée. (Lindsay Groves)

**** drink or cellar
Flat Rock Cellars ‘Nadja’s Vineyard’ Riesling 2008
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 (578625) 10.5% alcohol
Produced from hand-picked grapes sourced from a single vineyard named after owner Ed Madronich’s mother, this is an expressive aromatic Riesling. Hints of slate, tree fruits and citrus waft from the glass. Characterized by minerality, sweet citrus and ripe apple flavors, the wine is medium bodied and crisp. The finish is long and refreshing. (Susan Desjardins)

***** drink or cellar two glasses
Le Clos Jordanne ‘Village Reserve’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.00 (33936) 13.5% alcohol
Drinking like a premier cru Burgundy, Vic and I fell in love with this. Winemaker Thomas Bachelder has produced a wine of elegance and refinement from organically grown grapes sourced from Le Clos estate vineyards. Pale gold and bright, this lightly oaked wine has wonderful aromas of vanilla, butter and baked apples. It’s full bodied with beautifully balanced acidity and tree fruit flavors lingering on the lengthy finish. A great purchase for the holiday season—the price-quality balance tips crazily in your favour. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

****1/2 drink now
Coyote’s Run ‘Red Paw Vineyard’ Syrah 2007 

VQA Four Mile Creek $23.95 12.5%% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This is aptly named ‘Syrah’ rather than ‘Shiraz’ as it has the structure and elegance Syrah from the northern Rhône often displays. Look for a lifted nose of toasty notes, black pepper and mixed spice. The flavours wash over the palate and provide a steady stream through the well-balanced lengthy finish—ripe mulberry, red cherry and spiced black plum. The oak treatment—14 months in French and American barrels—has been deftly integrated and the ripe supple tannin adds underpinning and structure. Pair with grilled lamb tenderloins rubbed with garlic butter. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar two glasses
Inniskillin ‘Reserve Series’ Cabernet Franc 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (91140) 13.0% alcohol
Vic and I both loved the wine and the incredible value it offers. This is a fabulous Cabernet Franc from the great 2007 vintage! The optimal growing conditions and extended hang time created fully-ripened, deeply flavorful fruit leading to a deep ruby red wine. The nose is ripe with rich berry fruit and peppery notes. It is full bodied, with layers of flavor—blackberries, plums, raspberries, pepper. These are complemented by rich notes of cocoa and coffee beans. It’s a scrumptious and robust wine, yet balanced with well-integrated tannins and some refreshing acidity on the finish. At this price, given the unique vintage, a case might be in order. (Susan Desjardins)

***** drink or cellar
Le Clos Jordanne ‘Village Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.00 (33894) 13.5% alcohol
A delicate ruby red, this Pinot is outstanding. The refined nose is redolent of field berries and sweet spices with a hint of vanilla. The wine is elegant and smooth, like a strawberry mousse, with soft, well-integrated tannins. Medium bodied and well balanced, it has a slightly spicy, fruit-filled and lingering finish. Turkey anyone? (Susan Desjardins)

British Columbia: Red Wine

*** drink now
Gray Monk Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Okanagan Valley $17.95 (060491) 12.5% alcohol
Light on its feet, the quiet aromas are in the red berry and red cherry zones. On the palate, there’s a nice stream of tangy flavours with ripe cranberry, pomegranate and spice-laden tart cherry predominant. There’s tannin hanging around in the background with nuances of spice and leather while the finish is dry and crisp. This will pour well with spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Ghost Pines ‘Winemaker’s Blend’ Chardonnay 2007
Monterey/Napa/Sonoma Counties $19.95 (136408) 14.3% alcohol
My first taste of the Ghost Pines banner and it’s flavour packed and full of value. Oak, smoke and vanilla on the nose, there’s a wave of palate-coating well-balanced flavour—tropical fruit, ripe apple and oodles of ripe pineapple. This is mid weight, fully textured—100% malolactic fermentation—and sports as nice a finish as you can imagine—refreshing, nutty, sweet ripe fruit and flavourful. Lovely sipped on its own, it also goes well with supermarket take-out rotisserie chicken. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ghost Pines ‘Winemaker’s Blend’ Merlot 2006
Napa & Sonoma Counties $19.95 (135384) 14.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas of tar, graphite and dark berry fruit abound from this full-bodied generously textured gem. There’s a huge wave of sweet succulent Bing cherry and cassis mingling with pie cherry, espresso roast, cinnamon and black licorice. The oak and tannin has been seamlessly integrated while the lengthy aftertaste layers on a delightful shower of bramble berry flavour. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Gnarly Head ‘Gnarlier Head Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2006
Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma $27.95 (067785) 15.0% alcohol
Zin lovers won’t want to pass this by—it’s hedonistic alright, but there’s also balance, structure and complexity. It’s imbued with flavours of bramble berry jam, spice-infused black plum compote and sweet vanilla mingling with moderating elements of red cherry and pomegranate. It’s beautifully textured, plush and smooth as silk. It finishes full bore and fruit packed with an added hit of dark chocolate. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
J. Lohr ‘Los Osos’ Merlot 2007
Paso Robles $19.95 (27516) 14.5% alcohol
This Merlot looks velvety in the glass, and it doesn’t disappoint. The nose is very fragrant with aromas of blackberries, black plums and chocolate mousse. Full-bodied and well balanced, the wine is characterized by juicy acidity, soft tannins and rich berry flavors. There are tasty secondary notes of cocoa, espresso and char on the lengthy, smooth finish. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Macrostie Pinot Noir 2006
Carneros, California $25.95 (674911) 14.2% alcohol
Showing a slight mahogany tint, this Pinot offers fresh cherry flavors with a complementary earthiness. It is medium bodied, fruity—ripe cherries, red plums—and slightly peppery, with fine tannins. The finish is warm, soft and flavorful. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 cellar
Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Napa Valley $125.95 (936039) 13.9% alcohol
Opulent and headstrong, this cellar dweller blend—86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot—will drink beautifully 2012 to 2022. Seductive aromas of exotic spice and dark berry fruit segue a gorgeous explosion of succulent flavour with cassis and chocolate-dipped cherry and sweet oak to the fore. It’s full bodied and hugely textured, sporting a lingering finish that’s still in the grip of firm tannin. This definitely will reward careful cellaring. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Bodegas Santa Ana ‘La Mascota’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Maipú, Mendoza $17.95 (066720) 14.0% alcohol
Earthy, dusty and berry fruit aromas on the nose, this over-delivers on the palate with rich and concentrated flavour. Look for a wash of ripe mulberry, kirsch liqueur and moderating Montmorency cherry. It’s medium weight, has a nice texture and delivers a tannin-infused finish of mixed field berry fruit. Give this a go with a thick strip loin grilled medium rare after aerating/decanting two hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Zolo ‘Reserve’ Malbec 2006
Mendoza $16.95 (081091) 14.0% alcohol
Wisps of dark berry fruit and toasty oak aromas curl off the quiet nose while the palate’s treated to a juicy well-balanced mouthful of flavour with tart cherry and black currant predominant. It’s mid weight with a generous mouth feel and medium-length finish that’s underpinned by supple tannin mingling with tobacco leaf. Pair it with grilled rosemary-rubbed rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Penfolds ‘Thomas Hyland’ Chardonnay 2007 

Adelaide Hills, South Australia $18.95 (611228) 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Thomas was the son-in-law of winery-founder Dr. Penfold. The wine is quite expressive on the nose with aromas of spice box and ripe honeydew melon. On the palate it's crisp, clean and refreshing with a stream of tang delivered on green apple and racy citrus flavours. This is medium bodied and a versatile food wine—beer can chicken, and grilled stuffed pork tenderloin are good matches. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Penfolds ‘Bin 389’ Cabernet/Shiraz 2006
South Australia $37.95 (309625) 14.5% alcohol
One of Australia’s rock-solid reds, it’s listed in the ‘Excellent’ category of Australia’s Langton’s Classification. Dark berry fruit, cherry and spice box aromas segue succulent lip-smacking flavours of Bing cherry, brambly berry and hints of espresso roast. Medium-bodied, generously textured and deftly balanced, you’re left with a lengthy and luscious aftertaste—it was tough to spit. Drink now, after a two-hour aeration/decant and on to 2020. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Penfolds ‘St. Henri’ Shiraz 2005
South Australia $74.95 (510875) 14.5% alcohol
Dark berry, cherry and mixed spice box on the nose, this perfectly balanced gorgeously sculpted red delivers a luscious mouthful of flavour that persists in waves, black currant, ripe black cherry and bittersweet chocolate. It’s mid weight, generously textured and finishes in a blaze of glory with supple tannin, moderating acidity and gobs of rich spice-laden fruit flavour. Listed in the ‘Excellent’ category of Australia’s Langton’s Classification; in the early days it was considered the equal of Grange. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Pirramimma Shiraz 2005 

McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (987784) 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) The producer is a winecurrent favourite and this wine showcases why. It’s very soft and approachable with a full body, quite plush texture and a rich and concentrated wave of ripe dark berry fruit flavours—black currant, black raspberry and mulberry. There’s also a lovely layering of chocolate flavour and refreshing moderating acidity. The finish lingers and is well balanced. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Wolf Blass ‘Gold Label’ Shiraz 2007
Barossa Valley $27.95 (590273) 14.5% alcohol
Expansive and expressive on the nose and palate this unabashedly delivers a ‘New World’ beauty full of flavour and complexity. Cinnamon, toasty oak and dark fruit aromas abound on the nose while the teeth-staining, palate-coating delectable flavours are redolent of cassis, black pepper and ripe mulberry. They’re also nicely balanced and carried along on a bed of firm tannin. It’s full bodied, fully textured and sports a lengthy finish. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before pouring. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

***** drink now two glasses
Astrolabe ‘Voyage’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (10421) 13.5% alcohol
Vic and I both loved this, it’s pungent and powerful. With a classic nose – dare I say cat’s pee on a gooseberry bush – it has interesting aromas of green beans and thyme. But the surprise is in the glass. It’s silky and rounded with complementary flavors of sweet citrus, minerality and tropical fruits. The long, lingering finish is chock full of citrus with a hint of thyme. A good value and an excellent match for a goat cheese appetizer with a dressing of olive oil, lemon rind and chopped sun-dried tomatoes. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cloudy Bay Chardonnay 2007
Marlborough, South Island $37.95 (359513) 14.0% alcohol
Renowned for their Sauvignon Blanc, their Chardonnay often outshines it. This bristles with an expressive nose of savoury notes, mineral nuances and pungent citrus. It’s quite different on the palate with a silky smooth delivery, generous mouth feel and luscious well-balanced flavours—nutty caramel apple, ripe lemon and nuances of musk melon and pineapple. The finish is lengthy, complex and refreshing. A strong consideration to pair with that holiday bird. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

***** drink now
Anne Boecklin ‘Reserve’ Gewürztraminer 2008
AOC Alsace $19.95 (141226) 12.5% alcohol
A winner, this wine is luscious gold in a glass. It has great intensity, with generous floral and sweet tropical aromas. It is full-bodied with a rich, round mouth feel balanced by a crisp texture. Sweet fruit, hints of lychee and a zesty pithiness carry through on the long, lingering finish. An outstanding wine at a great price. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Château Haut Selve 2007
AOC Graves $21.95 (682369) 12.5% alcohol
A classic Bordeaux blend primarily of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, this Graves combines aromas of citrus and tree fruits with a hint of spice. It refreshes the palate with bright citrus flavors and a hint of rind. Medium-bodied, it has a long crisp finish and would go well with a roast chicken dressed with tarragon and lemon rind. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Hauchat 2006
AOC Fronsac $15.00 (123489) 13.0% alcohol
There’s a compelling argument for this wine, and it starts with the dense deep color. Layers of aromas—sweet berries, cassis, cedar, caramel—lead you to a well-structured wine with ripe fruit, hints of vanilla and spice, and slightly chalky tannins. The finish is lingering and offers wonderful notes of dark chocolate and char. Certainly a good match for prime rib now, but the wine will cellar for a few more years. An extra ½ star for the price/value equation. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Henri de Villamont Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2007 

AOC Bourgogne $19.95 (084616) 12.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) There’s really good value here in a friendly, approachable style. The aromas are red berries—cherry and strawberry—with cinnamon spice and just a hint of forest floor. It’s structurally sound with lively acidity and mellow tannins and being lighter bodied. It’ll be delicious before dinner or with coq au vin. This is very attractively priced when compared to other French Pinot Noir. (Mark Tandan)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Château L’Hospitalet ‘La Reserve Rouge’ 2007
AOC Coteaux du Languedoc - La Clape $19.95 (682492)
Leather, mixed field berry and fields of garrigue—the wonderful wild herbs of the area—waft from this mid-weight, nicely textured Rhône-styled blend. There are also distinctive underbrush and spice-driven flavours on the palate mingling with black currant, cherry and black plum. There’s a nicely balanced aftertaste adorned with ripe tannin and hints of mint. Pour alongside a hearty beef daube. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Grand Veneur ‘Les Champauvins’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2007 

AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $19.95 (076331) 15.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This is a great bargain. Beguiling aromas of lilac, mixed spice box and licorice pour from the glass of this full-bodied hedonistic blend—Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre—that was sourced from vines nestled up to the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation. A few metres this way or that and you’d be paying $50 or more for this. Robust flavours of succulent Bing cherry, cassis and brambly berry coat the palate through the lingering well-balanced finish. Scoop up an armful for enjoyable drinking over the next three years. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cascina Bruciata ‘Rio Sordo’ Barbaresco 2004
DOCG Barbaresco $49.95 (135905)
Balanced, hugely textured and flavour packed this aged five-year-old leads with an alluring bouquet—mixed field berry fruit, lilac, exotic spice and mocha. It coats the palate and senses with a steady stream of juicy flavour, predominantly cassis, bramble berry and red cherry. It’s mid weight, generously textured sporting a well-balanced aftertaste of fresh red berry fruit and spice—Nebbiolo at its best. It drinks well now after a two hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Leone de Castris ‘Villa Santera’ Primitivo di Manduria 2007
DOC Primitivo di Manduria $16.95 (730952) 14.5% alcohol
Structured and interesting, this jumps from the glass with earthy, toasty and raisiny aromas. The tangy succulent flavours attack in waves with red cherry, mulberry and spice-infused black raspberry predominant. It’s mid weight, generously textured with racy flavours persisting through the lingering lip-smacking finish. Good to go on its own, it also pairs well with grilled pork back ribs slathered with BBQ sauce. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Antinori ‘Guado Al Tasso’ 2006
DOC Bolgheri Superiore $89.95 (986380) 14.5% alcohol
Other-worldly and elegant, this lovely blend—65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Syrah—is resplendent with charming flavour—cassis, kirsch liqueur and pie cherry mingling with spice and hints of red licorice. It’s full bodied and amply textured with a solid underpinning of firm tannin. It finishes dry and racy with adornments of fennel. Drink 2012 to 2012 alongside medallions of herb-rubbed venison grilled rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Corte Majoli Amarone Della Valpolicella 2006
DOC Valpolicella $34.95 (081943) 15.0% alcohol
Raisin, grapey and cedar on the nose, this value-packed gem gets into high gear on the palate with flavours of tart cherry, tangy cranberry and juicy black currant galore. It’s medium weight, nicely textured and dishes out a well-balanced and flavour-packed finish. Poured and paired perfectly with osso bucco or lamb daube. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Atteca ‘Old Vines’ 2007
DO Calatayud $21.95 (103473) 14.5% alcohol
Dark toast, mixed berry fruit and exotic spice on the nose, this is succulent, full bodied and seductive. The juicy complex flavours bathe the palate in wave after delectable wave with bramble berry, cassis and cherry pie filling ably supported by adornments of savoury spice. The generous texture is further supported by moderating acidity and an almost perfect balance throughout. It finishes lengthy and lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

**** cellar
Bodegas Ontañón Reserva 2004
DOCa Rioja $25.95 (725895) 13.0% alcohol
This red blend—95% Tempranillo with the balance Graciano—dishes out an astounding mouthful of fruit flavour with sweet black raspberry and spiced black plum predominant. It’s beautifully textured, medium bodied and showcases a well-sculpted, well-balanced lingering finish delivering ripe supple tannin and moderating mouth-watering tanginess mingling with milk chocolate-dipped cherries. There’s considerable tannin, portending a drinking window 2011 to 2016. Pour alongside a thick hunk of rib eye steak grilled rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Herencia Remondo ‘La Montesa’ 2006
DOCa Rioja $19.95 (674572) 14.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of smoke, nuttiness and berry fruit introduce this nicely textured red. Black juicy Bing cherry, roasted coffee bean and spice-laden black Damson plum coat the palate mingling with perceptible tannin and toasty notes. The medium-length finish is nicely balanced with adornments of cinnamon toast and cranberry for balance. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Juan Gil Monastrell 2008
DO Jumilla $15.95 (013656) 15.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas soar from the glass with forest floor, spice box and fresh-picked black berries. Sweet succulent flavours of black licorice, black currant and boysenberry mingling with ripe succulent Bing cherry and savoury spice coat the palate. This Mourvèdre is mid weight, nicely textured and dishes out a lingering aftertaste of gamey notes and lip-smacking tart cherry. The price-quality ratio skews well in your favour; once you’re assured I have mine, pick up your case. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink now
Vinos Sin-Ley ‘Puerta Bonita G5’ Garnacha 2007
DO Vinos de Madrid $19.95 (132266) 14.5% alcohol
This is one über delicious, innovative, value-packed red, offering great purity of fruit, lovely balance using not a splinter of oak. Exotic and complex aromas abound—red licorice, gamey nuances, mocha and bright red cherry. A persistent stream of balanced flavour—cassis, bramble berry, red currant and kirsch liqueur—delight the senses. It’s mid weight, medium textured sporting a satisfying plush and lengthy finish that leaves you wanting another sip—it’s simply gorgeous. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: January 23, 2010

****1/2 drink or cellar
Jackson-Triggs ‘Delaine Vineyard’ Cabernet / Merlot 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.95 (989269) 13.7% alcohol
This showcases its breeding—it’s from one of the top vineyard sites in the country—and the warm 2007 vintage. Expressive aromas of ripe cherry, spice-laden black currant and toasty notes soar from the glass. Medium weight with good texture, the rich and complex flavours persist throughout —succulent ripe dark berry fruit, mocha and pie cherry. It’s well sculpted with deft balance, seamlessly integrated oak and firm tannin underpinning. There are adornments of mint and tobacco on the lengthy finish. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

****1/2 drink now
Cave Spring Cellars ‘Estate’ Riesling 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment $17.95 (286377)
Flinty, slate and citrus on the nose, this offers more complex flavour than previous years, possibly reflective of the warmer conditions in ’07. There’s a tsunami wave of succulent fruit on the palate with key lime pie, yellow peach and ripe white grapefruit gliding along on a most generously textured mouth feel. The purity of fruit is focused and persistent, ending with a lengthy finish that layers on crisp green apple and peel marmalade. This is a Vintages Essentials product, always available in select stores. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Louis Jadot ‘Bourgogne’ Chardonnay 2008
AOC Burgundy $19.95 (933077) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of ripe tree fruits, light toast and vanilla waft from this beautifully balanced white Burgundy. It’s full bodied and complex with a soft texture. Citrus and ripe apple flavors are balanced with perceptible acidity. The finish is long and warmly satisfying. Consider having it with roast chicken or turkey. This is a Vintages Essentials product, always available in select stores. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Louis Jadot ‘Combe Aux Jacques’ Beaujolais-Villages 2008
AOC Beaujolais-Villages $16.95 (365924) 12.5% alcohol
Racy and full of verve, this opens with aromas of mixed spice, red berry fruit and red cherry. The flavours—red pie cherry, cranberry and ripe pomegranate are carried along on an assertive spine of acidity. It’s light to mid weight and well textured with a racy and lip-smacking finish. This is looking to partner with tomato-based food like a grilled chicken breast smothered in tomato mushroom sauce or lasagna. This is a Vintages Essentials product, always available in select stores. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Kilikanoon ‘Killerman’s Run’ Shiraz 2006
South Australia $19.95 (925453) 14.0% alcohol
An inky, purply red, this wine is a blockbuster! Intense blackberry, smoky oak and vanilla aromas waft from the glass. Soft and well rounded, the wine is nevertheless balanced and tastes of berry fruit pie with a touch of sweet spices and pepper. It has a long warm, peppery finish. Try it with venison or lamb tenderloin. This is a Vintages Essentials wine, always available in select stores. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Pèppoli Chianti Classico 2006
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (606541) 13.0% alcohol
A great value from Antinori, this is a more modern-style Chianti. Opaque in the glass, the nose is reminiscent of berry pie or fresh black cherries, with hints of vanilla and cedar. The wine is well balanced and well structured with slightly drying tannins and strong berry flavors. Notes of espresso complement the ripe fruit on the lingering finish. This is a Vintages Essentials wine, always available in select stores. (Susan Desjardins)

New in the LCBO

Argentina

Packaged in an attractive gift pack, you get both of the following for $19.95 and it’s the only way you can purchase the sparkling wine, it’s not available separately. The wildly popular red Shiraz/Malbec can be purchased on its own and as it’s the new 2009 vintage, it’s reviewed in detail.

***1/2 drink now
Familia Zuccardi ‘Fuzion’ Brut Sparkling Wine Non-Vintage
Mendoza Available only in Gift Pack (131409) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of perfumed white flowers, citrus and spice waft from the glass of this racy, crisp and refreshing sparkler. There’s a lovely explosion of tangy citrus rind and spice-infused yellow peach on the palate while it finishes zesty and clean with a lip-smacking surge of lemon-lime. A crowd-pleaser served before the meal, it’ll also pour well with sea food and shell fish under a drizzle of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Familia Zuccardi ‘Fuzion’ Shiraz/Malbec 2009
Mendoza $7.45 (83188) 13.5%
Red cherry, grape bubble gum and spice-driven aromas curl from the glass of this light-bodied blend. There are tangy flavours of tart cherry and cranberry mingling with sweet berry fruit on the mid palate delivered with a light texture that’s virtually oak- and tannin-free. This bistro-styled red pairs well with a plate of mixed deli meats, spicy black olives and roasted red peppers. (Vic Harradine)

Australia

**** drink now
Red Knot Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
McLaren Vale $17.95 (91702) 14.0% acohol
Here’s a robust red bursting with aromas of dark fruits, spices, earth, minerality and fennel seed. Rich dark fruits—cassis and blackberry—are matched by clean acidity and supported by fine tannins. The long fruity, spicy finish also displays traces of cocoa and black licorice. Well structured, this wine can cellar for 3-5 years, so buy a few bottles. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile

***1/2 drink now
Concha y Toro ‘Casillero del Diablo Reserva’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008 

DO Central Valley $10.95 (578641) 13.0% alcohol
This opens with expressive and pungent aromas of grass, nettles and asparagus. On the palate it’s light bodied with a nice mouth feel and a tangy wash of flavour with loads of lip-smacking white grapefruit, gooseberry and lemon-lime flavour. Dry, crisp and mouth-watering on the finish, this is the perfect foil for a mesclun salad drizzled with olive oil and topped with crumbled goat cheese. (Vic Harradine)

*** drink now
Concha y Toro ‘Frontera’ Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2008 

DO Central Valley $8.45 (116426) 750 mL $14.95 (286187) 1500 mL 12.5% alcohol
Another good-value red with two convenient sizes to choose from, this opens with aromas of spice and berry fruit then splashes on the plate with dark cherry and mixed field berry fruit. It’s lightly textured and finishes dry with nuances of red currant and spice-infused cranberry. This pairs well with pizza, lasagna or spaghetti Bolgnese. (Vic Harradine)

*** drink now
Concha y Toro ‘Frontera’ Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 

DO Central Valley $14.95 (669093) 1500 mL 12.0% alcohol
This red blend—60% Shiraz, the balance Cabernet Sauvignon—opens with funky aromas of forest floor, black pepper and dark berry fruit before delivering a steady wash of red currant, black berry and sweet cherry flavour. The spine of acidity portends a lovely pairing with Swiss steak or a mushroom, green pepper and pepperoni pizza. (Vic Harradine)

France

**** drink now
Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Réserve Particulière Champagne Non-Vintage 

AOC Champagne $49.85 (537605) 12% alcohol 

This froths over with value and versatility, it’s also food friendly and flavour packed. There’s a persistent stream of fine bubbles in the glass and silky texture on the palate. Mid weight with a nice mouth feel, it sports a lifted nose of white flowers, peach, and baking bread. Alluring flavours abound with zesty citrus and crisp green apple predominant. Take along as a hostess gift, serve to friends, sip on its own or pair with appetizers and lighter mains. (Vic Harradine)

Italy

**** drink now
Astoria Prosecco ‘La Robinia Extra Dry’ Non-Vintage
DOC Prosecco di Valdobbiadene $12.80 (593855) 11.0% alcohol
A well-priced, bright, dry sparkling wine, this Prosecco presents floral notes with hints of citrus and brioche. The light airy mousse dances crisply on the palate and offers tangy citrus and tree fruit flavors. A medium-long finish refreshes and awakens the appetite. Consider it to kick off a festive gathering. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now
Montalto Nero d’Avola/Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
IGT Sicilia $9.95 (621151) 14.0% alcohol
Another great value option, this purple-hued wine has rich aromas of dark berries—blueberries and blackberries—as well as cinnamon toast. It’s medium to full bodied with a plush texture and strong dark fruit flavors. Well balanced, it has a long fruity finish with a hint of char and silky tannins. Enjoy it with hearty meat-based sauce and pasta. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Montalto Pinot Grigio 2008
IGT Sicilia $9.95 (73148) 13.0% alcohol
The subtle aromas are primarily pit fruit, floral and spice while the tangy flavours wash over the palate in gentle waves with Granny Smith apple, melon and zesty citrus rind to the fore. It’s light on its feet, clean, crisp and refreshing throughout showcasing its affinity for sea food. Pair with skillet-seared tilapia, steamed mussels or store-bought fish and chips. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand

**** drink now
Stoneleigh Chardonnay 2007
Marlborough $16.95 (288795) 13.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of tropical fruit, spiced ripe apple and nutty, toasty notes waft from this mid-weight nicely textured Kiwi. There’s a generous wash of flavour on the palate with ripe pear, yellow plum and lemon pie filling while the lingering finish is crisp and refreshing with flavours of key lime pie and white grapefruit. This is paired perfectly with pan-seared scallops, prawns or fish under a squeeze of fresh lemon over a bed of greens. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario

**** drink now
Creekside Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2007
VQA Ontario $13.95 (620724) 12.0% alcohol
Pungent grassy herbaceous aromas abound in this lip-smacking racy gem. Dancing lightly on the palate, it provides a steady wash of zesty flavour with white grapefruit, ripe pineapple and hints of mint predominant. The finish is crisp and mouth watering, looking for a heaping plate of lightly breaded and skillet-fried calamari rings sprayed with a generous squirt of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal

**** drink now
Otima 10 Year old Tawny Port
DOC Douro $22.95 500 mL (566174) 20.0% alcohol
This light-on-its-feet Port is ready to drink and chockfull of value. It’s also light coloured, but don’t be fooled, it delivers a creamy smooth mouthful of heavenly sweet flavours with candied orange peel, toffee and crème brûlée to the fore. Versatile, it’s a lovely way to end a meal, either sipped on its own or with blue-veined cheese, spice cake, chocolate or fruit desserts. You can drink at room temperature or slightly chilled and it will stay fresh a week or two by storing in the fridge once opened. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa

**** drink now
The Beach House 2009
WO Western Cape $9.95 (122390) 12.0% alcohol
A blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, this is a well-made wine at a great price. Fermented in stainless steel, it has pungent grassy aromas with a hint of tropical fruit. It’s juicy and fresh with tangy citrus notes. The long zesty finish will make it a real hit, whether you’re at the beach, or just wishing . . . (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Bellingham Wines Shiraz 2006
WO Paarl $13.95 (554360) 14.0% alcohol
There’s also 8% Viognier enhancing the flavours in this medium-bodied, nicely textured red. Look for charred campfire and dark berry fruit bouquet on the nose. It bathes the palate with rich fruit flavours of black currant and spice-infused tart cherry. It’s mid weight with a nice mouth feel delivering a long finish of espresso beans and dark toasted oak. Lovers of RSA reds will especially appreciate this aged Shiraz. (Vic Harradine)

Spain

**** drink now
Finca La Chamiza ‘Classic Series’ Cabernet/Merlot 2009
Mendoza $7.95 (620476) 13.7% alcohol
Planning a party – this wine’s for you! A bright ruby color, the wine has winning aromas of ripe berries and vanilla. It’s uncomplicated and fruity with a balancing acidity and perceptible light tannins. The medium-length finish has notes of ripe fruit, white pepper and cocoa. For the price, it’s great value, earning its final ½ star because of it. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Freixenet ‘Carta Nevada’ Cava Brut Non-Vintage

DO Cava $11.75 (74757) 12.0% alcohol

Made in the manner of Champagne, this is versatile and affordable. It’s an outstanding selection as an aperitif, food wine or a special occasion bubbly. A muted nose of toast and citrussy zest leads to a lovely burst of white peach and watermelon in the mouth. This lighter-styled sparkler has a crisp, clean finish that would pair well with seafood or chicken appetizers. Stock up. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Freixenet ‘Cordon Negro’ Cava Brut Non-Vintage

DO Cava $13.95 (88591) Gift pack w/ 2 flutes (898478) $18.25 12.0% alcohol
Perhaps the most popular bubbly in North America, the familiar black bottle is also packaged in a black gift box with 2 flute glasses—you can purchase either. This opens with lifted and friendly aromas—hints of baking bread, floral, mineral and citrus notes. It delivers a fine bead of persistent bubbles, a lovely froth in the mouth and crisp refreshing flavours of lemon zest, zippy red currant and juicy ripe pineapple. It finishes on the same racy note—lip-smacking delicious. If flying solo this Holiday Season take this to the party, you won’t be alone long. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Freixenet ‘Cordon Rosado’ Cava Rosé Brut Non-Vintage

DO Cava $12.95 (352369) 12.0% alcohol
A lovely salmon-pink in the glass, the aromas are strawberry and pungent notes of spice-laden citrus. All Freixenet sparklers are made with local grape varieties—Trepat and Garnacha here—but in the same labour-intensive manner as Champagne. This delivers smooth and refreshing flavours of red berry and Montmorency cherry mingling with ruby red grapefruit. It’s clean and refreshing on the finish leaving you looking forward to the next sip. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

****1/2 drink now
Cave Spring Cellars ‘CSV’ Chardonnay 2006
VQA Beamsville Bench $29.95 (529941) 13.5% alcohol
Reflective of its breeding—30-year-old low-yielding vines and prime terroir—this flagship wine is structured, balanced and downright delicious. Lifted aromas of toasty notes, vanilla and baking brioche introduce mouth-watering flavours of ripe Bosc pear, crisp Granny Smith apple and spice-infused tangy yellow plum. Mid weight with a fully textured mouth feel, it has a complex lengthy finish with notes of vanilla, tree fruit and exotic spice. In Eastern Ontario e-mail Lauren This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. to order by the case for daily office or home delivery—everywhere else in Ontario via Cave Spring Cellars. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Cave Spring Cellars ‘Estate’ Chenin Blanc 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench $18.95 12.0% alcohol
This is tangy, rich and drinking well now, promising even more in a year or so. Aromas of mineral, floral and gunflint segue firm and focused flavours—orange rind, red currant and racy laser-like citrussy tang. It’s mid weight and nicely textured sporting a crisp, refreshing mouth-watering finish. Poured and paired well alongside pan-seared scallops over arugula under a generous drizzle of lemon butter. In Eastern Ontario e-mail Lauren This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. to order by the case for daily office or home delivery—everywhere else in Ontario via Cave Spring Cellars. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Daredevil Wines Cabernet 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $36.00
Two young Turks from Niagara fashioned this red blend—a 50-50 split of Franc and Sauvignon—at their newly minted virtual winery. However, their recipe is as old as dirt—take a crackerjack winemaker—Marc Bradshaw, the only one from Canada on the short list for Wine Innovation’s ‘Young Winemaker of the Year - 2009’—and a sales/sommelier visionary—Marcel Morgenstern, and let ‘er rip! Expansive aromas of toasty oak, espresso roast, savoury and spice-infused berry fruit segue a surge of fully textured, beautifully balanced flavour with cassis, black currant and ripe mulberry galore. The lingering finish dishes out a moderating hit of minty red cherry. Only 4 barrels produced—move quickly on this unique offering. Order by the case of six for daily office or home delivery from Daredevil. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Hidden Bench Vineyards and Winery ‘Estate’ Chardonnay 2007 

VQA Beamsville Bench $35.20 14.3% alcohol 

Vanilla, oaky and persimmon on the nose, this complex and beautifully structured white doles out a generously textured stream of flavour—it was barrel fermented, lees stirred and aged in French oak—with caramel-infused apple, nutty notes and lip-smacking citrus to the fore. It’s balanced throughout with the lingering finish layering on exotic spice and a peel marmalade flavour. Drop-dead gorgeous now, it’ll improve in bottle over the next two to three years. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Hidden Bench. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar
Hidden Bench Vineyards and Winery ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir 2007 

VQA Beamsville Bench $45.20 13.3% alcohol 

My highest compliment—it was tough to spit. Elegant and subtle on the nose—toast and dark berry fruit—it provides a special experience beginning with a generously textured palate-coating wave of flavour—brambly berry, minty cherry, black currant and moderating acidity via tart cherry and red currant flavours. This is rich, complex and beautifully sculpted with perfect balance and a lengthy finish. It was basket pressed, wild yeast fermented, hand plunged, gravity drained, spending 14 months in French oak, 4 more in stainless then bottled unfined and unfiltered. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Hidden Bench. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Pillitteri Estates Merlot 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.00 13.5% alcohol
This is a unique wine from Niagara’s great ‘07 vintage, aged by winemaker Dr. Marc Bradshaw in older barrels—some as old as 10 years—for the particular flavors they impart. A rich ruby red, the wine has aromas of ripe berries, sweet spices and a hint of mint leaf. It’s well structured and balanced with a complexity of flavors—rich fruit, light toast, leafiness and red pepper. A great food wine, it married well with braised chicken thighs with mushrooms prepared in a red wine sauce. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Pillitteri. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Pillitteri Estates Winery Viognier 2008
VQA Short Hills Bench $20.00 12.5% alcohol
Pillitteri’s first crack at Viognier as a single varietal and it’s a beauty. Honeysuckle, ripe pear and spice on the nose, it washes the palate with delicately textured flavours of honeyed pear, tangy citrus and nuances of melon. It’s light on its feet and dishes out a nicely balanced, crisp and refreshing aftertaste. A lovely aperitif, it pours well alongside pan-seared scallops under a squirt of freshly squeezed lemon. Order by the case for daily office or home delivery from Pillitteri. (Vic Harradine)

New in Consignment

***** drink or cellar
Cambria ‘Julia’s Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2007
Santa Maria, California $35.25 14.5% alcohol
Chockfull of flavour and charm, this is a monumental full-bore Pinot. Expressive aromas of tar, graphite, black licorice and mixed berry fruit rip off the glass. Complex and palate-coating flavours of succulent brambly berry, kirsch liqueur and spice-laden black Damson plum persist throughout carried along on a silky texture and wonderful moderating acidity. The finish is well balanced, lengthy and redolent of dark chocolate-coated cherries. In Eastern Ontario e-mail Lauren This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. to order by the case for daily office or home delivery—everywhere else in Ontario via The Vine – Robert Groh Agency. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Clairault Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Margaret River, Western Australia, $24.35 13.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of black berry fruit, tar and gamey nuances segue a well-structured mouthful of black currant, mulberry and chocolate-coated cherries. It’s full bodied, complex and nicely underpinned with ripe supple tannin. The balanced and lengthy finish is adorned with hints of eucalyptus and espresso roast. Give this a go with grilled lamb tenderloins and roasted root veggies. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery from Hobbs Wines. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Cuttaway Hills Pinot Gris 2008
Southern Highlands, New South Wales, Australia $24.40 14.5% alcohol
Purity of fruit flavour, deft balance and delightful complexity all mark this as special. Floral nuances, baking bread and ripe apple aromas drift from the glass while the rich flavours coat the palate in waves—ripe pear, Red Delicious apple and yellow peach coalesce with lemony tang. It’s medium bodied and generously textured—close your eyes and you’re in Alsace—with a lingering balanced finish. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery from Hobbs Wines. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tenuta Cocci Grifoni ‘Vigna Messieri’ Rosso Piceno Superiore 2004
DOC Rosso Piceno Superiore, Italy $30.80
This is a sophisticated red blend—60% Sangiovese, 40% Montepulciano—that oozes flavour, structure and character. It’s showing a little age with a bricky rim in the glass, but is fresh and alluring on the palate with red pie cherry, cassis and dark berry fruit flavours. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a lengthy well-balanced finish of mint and nuances of truffles and boysenberry. In Eastern Ontario e-mail Lauren This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. to order by the case of 6 for daily office or home delivery—everywhere else in Ontario via The Vine – Robert Groh Agency. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Langtry Estate ‘Guenoc’ Chardonnay 2007
Lake County, California $21.25 14.7% alcohol
This cool-ish climate Chardonnay—marked diurnal variation with warm days and cool nights—jumps from the glass with expressive aromas and solid fruit flavour. Tropical fruit, toast and vanilla on the nose, the complex flavours include tree fruit—peach, pear and apple—mingling with crisp and refreshing citrus. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and sports a lengthy balanced finish. Great value here. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery from Hobbs Wines. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Lassegue 2004
AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, France $68.95 13.0% alcohol
Red berry fruit, graphite and mineral on the nose, this expressive and perfectly balanced gem delivers a textured wash of persistent flavour—black currant, spice-infused cranberry and mixed dark berry fruit mingling with hints of mint and cedar. It’s medium bodied and sports a well-balanced lingering finish that’s underpinned by a supple tannin structure and delectable fruit flavours. Drinking well now, it’ll easily cellar another 5 to 8 years. In Eastern Ontario e-mail Lauren This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. to order by the case of 6 for daily office or home delivery—everywhere else in Ontario via The Vine – Robert Groh Agency. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Lignères ‘Le Signal’ Corbières 2003
AOC Corbières, France $22.95 14.0% alcohol
The price-quality ratio skews well in your favour, it’s drop-dead gorgeous and under priced. Mixed spice box, berry fruit and toasty aromas abound from this mid-weight, generously textured blend of Syrah, Carignan and Grenache. Rich, concentrated and luscious flavours coat the palate with ripe mulberry and succulent black Bing cherry predominant. It’s deftly balanced and sports a lingering fruit-filled finish. In Eastern Ontario e-mail Lauren This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. to order by the case of 6 for daily office or home delivery—everywhere else in Ontario via The Vine – Robert Groh Agency. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tenuta Mosole ‘Eleo Rosso’ 2006
DOC Lison-Pramaggiore, Italy $24.90 13.0% alcohol
Exotic and alluring aromas abound with flint, mineral, Asian spice and dark berry fruit among them. Palate-coating, dark and rich flavours wash in waves with cassis, spice-laden bramble berry and kirsch liqueur to the fore. It’s mid weight with a silky-smooth texture, balance, structure and a lengthy warm flavourful finish layering on nuances of mocha and fine-grained tannin. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour.
In Eastern Ontario e-mail Lauren This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. to order by the case of 6 for daily office or home delivery—everywhere else in Ontario via The Vine – Robert Groh Agency. (Vic Harradine)

New in Private Order

The following wines, and Villard’s wines from the previous newsletter, were tasted with François Villard and his agent Frederic Brouca at a spirited Canadian and Latin American Wines (CLAWS) tasting in Ontario. These wines were also sampled with food and to say they were food-friendly would be an understatement.

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine François Villard Condrieu 2008 

AOC Condrieu, Rhône Valley $90.00 13.5% alcohol
Perfumed and powerful aromas curl from the glass of this gorgeously textured gem—floral, honeyed tree fruit and apricot. The mouth feel is plush and flavourful with well-balanced powerful flavours of citrus, lychee and Mirabelle plum. The monumental finish layers on minerality, wisps of new oak and hints of melon. From an über premium site, this more than lives up to its breeding. Order by the case of six via Private Order from Hexagon Wines by e-mail This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (Vic Harradine)

*** drink now
Domaine François Villard ‘Appel des Serienes’ 2008 

Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes, Rhône Valley $25.00 12.2% alcohol
Lifted pungent aromas of savoury spice and dark crushed berry fruit waft freely from this tangy uncomplicated red. It’s mid weight, nicely textured delivering a persistent stream of nervy racy flavour—cranberry, pomegranate and pie cherry mingling with perceptible tannin and loads of spice. Waiting a few months and pouring alongside a meat-laden pizza would ratchet the rating up a notch or two. Order by the case of six via Private Order from Hexagon Wines by e-mail This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine François Villard ‘Mairlant’ 2007 

AOC Saint Joseph, Rhône Valley $45.00 12.8% alcohol
Alluring aromas of spice, red cherry and vanilla segue a rich and refined wash of palate-pleasing flavour—black currant, Montmorency cherry and spiced black Damson plum—framed by moderating acidity and underpinned by ripe supple tannin. This is medium in body and texture with a lingering lip-smacking finish redolent of cherry and red currant. Order by the case of six via Private Order from Hexagon Wines by e-mail This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 starsWines of excellence
3 starsWines well worth trying
2  starsWines below average, but drinkable
1 starWines better avoided, unless desperate
half starRepresents a half star
2 glassesWe agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar