Winecurrent

October 24, 2009 Vintages Release

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature on wines from various Australian wine regions followed by a feature on Port. Up next is the familiar country/region format found in the ‘Main Release’ with wines reviewed in the order of the Vintages Release brochure. 


Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
  • French whites and reds – hardly a highlight, but unfortunately, none were offered at this tasting
  • Australia feature – ‘Shaw & Smith’, ‘Ringbolt’ and ‘Gemtree’ stand out
  • Italy and Spain – many value-packed wines in Italian reds, and a 5 star from Palacios in Spain that deserves to be on your bucket list of wines to buy and try
  • Following the Main Release – over a dozen wines; don’t miss out
  • Punch these dates into your BlackBerry – November 6, 7 and 8. It’s the Ottawa Wine and Food Show; learn about the show and purchase tickets here.
An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Australia Feature

**** drink or cellar
Pirathon Shiraz 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $38.95 (130278) 15.0% alcohol
Expressive and vigorous, this opens with aromas of espresso roast, dark berry fruit and mixed spice. Concentrated and mouth-coating flavours wash over the palate—cassis, juicy Bing cherry and black currant. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured with a lengthy finish that layers on firm and drying tannin. Aerate/decant for two hours then sip with grilled lamb tenderloin. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Torbreck ‘Old Vines’ Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2006
Barossa Valley, South Australia $20.95 (010223) 14.5% alcohol
Spice box and cherry aromas segue a persistent stream of well-balanced flavours with pie cherry, blueberry and hints of sweet bramble berry to the fore. Mid weight and medium textured, this features a lengthy lip-smacking tang-laden finish of cranberry and pomegranate. This shines when paired with pasta in a spicy tomato-based sauce—pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 cellar
Two Hands ‘Bella’s Garden’ Shiraz 2007
Barossa Valley, South Australia $63.95 (636407) 15.5% alcohol
Subtle on the nose with wisps of allspice and mixed berry fruit, it’s a gorgeous mouthful of balanced flavour—spiced black plum, ripe succulent mulberry, black cherry and gamey notes carried along with perceptible tannin. Medium in body and texture, the finish is lengthy layering on hints of savoury herb and spice. Best held until 2012 to 2016, you could aerate/decant this for a couple of hours and enjoy it now with rare- to medium-rare grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 cellar
Wallace by Ben Glaetzer Shiraz/Grenache 2007
Barossa Valley, South Australia $24.95 (047605) 15.0% alcohol

There are copious amounts of tannin and tang in this mid-weight medium-bodied Barossa blend. Tantalizing toasty oak and cherry aromas segue racy flavours of pie cherry, pomegranate and red currant that are persistent through the lengthy lip-smacking finish. Drink 2011 to 2015 poured with Swiss steak. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Gemtree ‘Citrine’ Chardonnay 2008
McLaren Vale, South Australia $17.95 (138305) 13.0% alcohol

Gemtree, owned by the third-generation-growers Buttery family, have been following bio-dynamic principles since 2008. This is flavourful and deftly balanced. Aromas and flavours abound with yellow peach, pear, honeydew melon, lemon-lime tang and spiced yellow plum among them. The prudent barrel treatment—only 30% aged in oak—is perfectly integrated while the lively finish is crisp and refreshing with tangy citrus and spice flavour. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour; pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)

**** cellar
Coriole ‘Mary Kathleen’ Reserve Cabernet/Merlot 2005
McLaren Vale, South Australia $35.95 (745489) 14.5% alcohol

Expansive and expressive on the nose, this delivers an amalgam of aromas with tar, licorice and toasty oak among them. The focused flavours are rich, concentrated and teeth-staining—dark berry fruit, oak, mocha and mixed spice—carrying through the drying tannic lengthy finish. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and deserves time in the cellar; drink 2012 to 2016. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Gemtree ‘Uncut’ Shiraz 2007
McLaren Vale, South Australia $24.95 (627844) 14.5% alcohol

Lifted aromas of incense, tarry notes and mixed field berry precede a lovely expression of pure fruit flavour—ripe succulent mulberry, Bing cherry and black raspberry interwoven with dark chocolate and wisps of eucalyptus. Medium to full bodied with generous texture, this dishes out a lengthy well-balanced aftertaste. Give it a go with herbed and garlicky grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Shaw & Smith Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Adelaide Hills, South Australia $24.95 (965335) 13.0% alcohol

Focused, determined and respected, Martin Shaw—winemaker, non-Hodgkin's lymphoma five-plus-year survivor—and Michael Hill Smith—Master of Wine, Cordon Bleu-trained chef, Order of Australia—cut no corners, spare no effort to produce world class wine. Herbaceous and pungent aromas rip off the glass of this crisp and racy offering—gooseberry, citrus and grassy notes. The tang-laden flavours of citrus, passion fruit and red currant mingle with tropical pineapple and melon. The ’08 vintage was very hot developing these a-typical, for Shaw and Smith, tropical flavours. It’s nicely balanced, crisp and refreshing. Pour with breaded skillet-fried crispy calamari rings. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ringbolt Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 

Margaret River, Western Australia $19.95 (606624) 14.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Here’s a Cabernet Sauvignon that drinks like it should cost a fair bit more. It features nice complexity on the nose with cassis and mocha mingling alongside soft herbal and earthy characters as well hints of vanilla and black pepper. It’s well structured with firm ultra ripe tannins creating great balance. This is a rich, full-bodied wine that is expressive from the first sniff through to the expansive finish. If you can get your hands on some Kangaroo filet, it’s a quality regional match, if not, a grilled pepper steak would do quite nicely. Very impressive. (Mark Tandan)

**** drink or cellar
Sticks Chardonnay 2006
Yarra Valley, Victoria $19.95 (141275) 13.5% alcohol
Spice and tropical fruit aromas on the nose, this delivers a steady stream of vibrant flavour—citrus, green apple and ripe pear—through the dry, crisp and refreshing aftertaste. It’s mid weight, nicely textured and offers good balance and well-integrated oak. Pair with roast chicken or stuffed roast pork tenderloin. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Yarra Ridge Pinot Noir 2008
Yarra Valley, Victoria $21.95 (988568) 13.5% alcohol
Toasty, oaky and floral aromas float off this silky-smooth fruit-forward Pinot. Look for a wave of sweet ripe fruit with cherry and black currant predominant along with hints of ripe cranberry for balance. It’s medium bodied and sports a lengthy fruity finish. New World in style, it’s well priced and pairs well with roast duck breast in a reduced red wine sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Port Feature

****1/2 drink or cellar
Quinta de Ventozelo Ruby Reserva Port
DOC Porto $16.95 (141028) 20.0% alcohol
Rich, well balanced and flavourful, this offers excellent value and at just the right time of year—pick up a few for winter sipping. Raisin, sweet spice cake and vanilla on the nose, this glides over the palate with a satin-smooth texture dishing out plush black currant, dark cherry and spiced black plum flavours galore. The lengthy finish is redolent of cassis and bitter-sweet chocolate. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Sandeman ‘Vau’ Vintage Port 2000
DOC Porto $29.95 (973768) 20.0% alcohol
Fruit forward and charming, this is much more developed and accessible than most young Vintage Ports. Spiced dark berry fruit aromas introduce this medium- to full-bodied nicely textured food-friendly Port. It’s easy to sip—ripe black cherry and strawberry flavours—as the tannin is barely perceptible. It also pairs well with aged hard cheese or chocolate desserts. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Sparkling Wine

****1/2 drink now
Louis Bouillot ‘Perle d’Ivoire’ Blanc de Blancs Brut N/V 

AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $18.95 (0048801) 12.0% alcohol

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Pale straw in colour, this sparkling is dry and light bodied with a great creamy mousse, zesty acidity and 12% alcohol. Aromas of grapefruit, green apple, brioche and blanched nuts give way to a fresh finish. (Lindsay Groves)

Canada: White Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Château des Charmes ‘St. David’s Bench Vineyard’ Gewürztraminer 2007
VQA St. David’s Bench, Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (453472) 13.0% alcohol
Rosewater, exotic spice and floral notes waft from the glass of this light on its feet, nicely textured Gewürzt. There’s a refreshing splash of fruit flavour on the palate with yellow plum, sweet pineapple and spiced lemon zest predominant. It showcases a delightful sweet and tang experience that pairs so well with spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Stratus Riesling 2007 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $35.20 (131011)

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) There’s a roomful of tantalizing aromas with floral notes, ripe citrus and steely mineral nuances up front. This is medium bodied and delivers a focused stream of crisp, refreshing zest and tang flavours—lemon-lime, pineapple and Granny Smith apple—that are delivered on a surprisingly generous texture. The racy laser-like mouth-watering finish portends a magical pairing with calamari under a drizzle of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Mission Hill Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2007
VQA Okanagan Valley $19.95 (057430) 13.5% alcohol
Herbaceous and lemongrass on the nose, this washes over the palate in a racy and refreshing wave of flavour—spice-infused white grapefruit, lemon pie filling and tropical fruit. It’s particularly well balanced gliding along on a firm spine of acidity with enough fruit to handle it. It finishes in a blaze of glory with crisp green apple and citrus flavours galore. Pair it with pan-seared fresh water fish under a generous squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Megalomaniac ‘Sonofabitch’ Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (085134) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of tar and black licorice segue zesty flavours of racy cranberry and spiced pomegranate on the palate. This is light bodied with flavours of black plum and cherry mingling with lots of spice on the drying finish. This pairs perfectly with pasta in a tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
7 Deadly Zins 2007
Lodi $24.95 (059311) 14.5% alcohol
No holds barred; this is full-bore juicy succulent California Zinfandel. There are dark chocolate and dark berry fruit aromas mingling with sprigs of spice. On the palate it’s all about flavourful fruit—black berry jam and ripe mulberry, that’s interwoven with good balancing acidity and ripe plush tannin for structure and shape. It’s full bodied and fully textured. Zin-lovers shouldn’t pass on this. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Belle Glos ‘Meiomi’ Pinot Noir 2007
Sonoma Coast $27.95 (130138) 14.6% alcohol
Allspice, gamy notes and dried black currant on the nose, this delivers delectable purity of fruit and deft balance throughout. Look for flavours of black currant, strawberry and black raspberry on the palate while the lengthy finish layers on mixed spice and fennel. It’s mid weight with a satin smooth texture and predilection for food. Pour alongside smoked duck breasts laid on mixed greens sprinkled with mango chutney. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Beringer Merlot 2005 

Napa Valley $29.95 (919647) 14% alcohol

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) A terrific wine that flirted with five stars; look for a lifted nose of spiced sweet dark berry fruit and coffee with an explosion of flavours on the palate with sweet black Damson plum and cassis predominant. There’s perceptible tannin, providing structure, deft balance and the oak has been seamlessly integrated. The lengthy finish layers on ripe black cherry flavours. Grilled steak partners well. (Vic Harradine)

**** cellar
Huntington ‘California Series’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
California $18.95 (994491) 14.5% alcohol
This cellar dweller opens with a gorgeous nose of berry fruit, spice and hints of mint. Next up is a steady stream of dark field berry and espresso roast flavour wrapped in taut tannin. It’s medium bodied, well textured and sports a lengthy aftertaste that layers on a delicious flavour of cherries dipped in dark chocolate. This’ll flesh out nicely 2011 to 2015. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Toasted Head Merlot 2006
North Coast $19.95 (969816) 13.5% alcohol
There are oodles of toasty oak and mixed spice aromas on the nose of this pleasing bistro-styled red; it’s easy sipping and food friendly. The expressive flavours—berry fruit, black Damson plum and hints of coffee—ride along on a nicely balanced and smoothly textured underpinning. The finish is medium length and fruity with bramble berry and cherry flavours to the fore. Pair with a selection of charcouterie meats. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

****1/2 cellar
Chakana Reserve Malbec 2008
Mendoza $16.95 (018671) 14.0% alcohol
This has it all; it’s well balanced, flavourful and age worthy. The perfumed nose showcases floral, spice box and berry fruit aromas while the palate-coating flavours are in the sweet dark berry fruit and spice zones. It’s medium to full bodied, generously textured and dishes out a lengthy finish of black juicy cherry and coffee-scented flavours wrapped in drying tannin. Aerate/decant for two hours or pop the cork 2011 to 2014. (Vic Harradine)

**** cellar
Terrazas de Los Andes Malbec Reserva 2007
Mendoza $19.95 (029280) 14.0% alcohol
Racy, rustic with a boatload of flavour, it opens with aromas of earthiness, gamey hints and mixed spice. Underpinned by a persistent stream of lip-smacking acidity, this delivers pure fruit flavours—black currant, macerated cherry and cranberry. It’s mid weight, well balanced and nicely textured. The tannin grips on the drying finish. Good cellar potential; drink 2012 to 2016. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Terra Noble Gran Reserva Carmenère 2007
DO Maule Valley $16.95 (957050) 13.5% alcohol
A big wine in texture and flavour, it opens with lifted aromas of savoury spice and herbs, dried currants and black licorice. It coats the palate with a gusher of dense sweet succulent flavour with cassis, black juicy Bing cherry and bramble berry pie predominant. It’s full bodied with a lengthy finish underpinned by a firm tannin structure that needs some taming, either aerate/decant two hours or tuck away and uncork 2011 to 2014. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

***1/2 cellar
Kilikanoon ‘Killerman’s Run’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
South Australia $20.95 (675223) 14.5% alcohol
With menthol, red berry fruit and toasty notes on the nose, this delivers a roomful of spice along with flavours of ripe cranberry, pomegranate and pie cherry mingling with firm tannin. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and sports drying tannin and leafy accents on the finish. Give this a go, after a two hour aeration/decant, alongside a rich lamb or beef daube. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Cathedral Cellar ‘Tryptych’ 2006 

WO Coastal Region $16.95 (053124) 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) There are oodles of campfire and tarry notes on the nose of this rich and sweet full-bodied red blend and they’re omnipresent in the flavours and finish. Ripe and sweet briary berry and jammy black raspberry flavours are nicely framed by supple tannin and red cherry tang. The finish is rich and concentrated needing a hearty partner—try boeuf bourguignon with bacon added or smoked and bar-b-cued back ribs. (Vic Harradine)

Germany: White Wine

**** drink now
Dr. Loosen ‘Dr. L’ Riesling 2008
QbA Mosel $13.95 (599274) 8.5% alcohol
This is off-dry and on target for easy sipping or pairing with spicy Asian cuisine. It’s light to medium bodied with oodles of flavour—sweet yellow peach and red Delicious apple flavours interwoven with spice-infused lemony tang. There’s a lip-smacking racy finish that sets it up for pairing with pan-seared garlic, buttered and spiced prawns over a bed of mixed greens. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Lingenfelder Riesling Kabinett 2007 

QmP, Freinsheimer Musikantenbuckel, Pfalz $18.95 (087593) 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Always worth a punt, Lingenfelder seldoms disappoints. This explodes on the palate with waves of ripe sweet flavours—melon, yellow plum, ripe pineapple and an underlying stream of minerality and ripe citrus. It has that sweet and tang sensation that allows an easy pairing with spicy Asian cuisine like spicy Thai tamarind prawns. (Vic Harradine)

Greece: Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Estate Papaioannou ‘Single Vineyard’Agiorgitiko 2005
VOQS Nemea $18.95 (047977) 12.5% alcohol
This is light on its feet and nicely textured with loads of racy flavour and charm. Aromas of mixed spice and black pepper open this tightly knit red. Well-sculpted flavours of cranberry, red currant and ruby red grapefruit mingle with spiced red cherry on the palate and lingering finish. The spine of acidity marries this perfectly with pasta in a tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

**** cellar
Terre Del Barolo ‘Monvigliero’ Barolo 2001
DOCG Barola $39.95 (097535) 14.0% alcohol
Lovely lilac and savoury spice aromas open this gem from one of Italy’s premiere and northernmost wine regions, Barolo. It’s medium to full bodied and a tad rustic. Delivering a delectable and expressive mouthful of flavour—dried currant, savoury herb, earthy and gamey notes mingling with pie cherry and succulent ripe black cherry—this finishes in a firm tannic grip. Drink 2012 to 2018 alongside osso bucco and mushroom risotto. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2cellar
Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino 2003 

DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $26.95 (035295) 375 mL $49.95 (650432) 750 mL

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent after tasting the 375 mL) This is one of the treasures of the wine world at a very good price. Brunello (the grape) is a clone of Sangiovese, the grape of Chianti. Lilacs and spiced berry on the nose, expect flavours in the dark berry fruit zone plus cranberry, red currant and strong hints of mushroom and chocolate. It's full bodied, tannic with ladles of acidity that make it delectable and food friendly. Pair this with osso bucco or venison steaks 2012 to 2018. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 cellar
Frescobaldi ‘La Vite Lucente’ 2007
IGT Toscana $39.95 (747030) 14.5% alcohol
Little brother to Frescobaldi’s more expensive ‘Luce’, this delivers full-bore flavours and excellent structure—the price-quality ratio skews well in your favour. Spice box, tarry notes and dark berry fruit aromas segue a succulent stream of cassis, minty chocolate cherry and spiced black plum flavours. It finishes with dried currant, dark cherry and toasty notes mingling with firm tannin. Stash this away and open 2012 to 2016. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ravazzi Chianti Riserva 2006
DOCG Chianti $16.95 (135657) 13.0% alcohol
Bacon bits, gamey and toasty oak on the nose, this mid-weight, smooth as satin Riserva delivers a world of value. A persistent wash of ripe delectable flavour coats the palate with cassis, kirsch liqueur and ripe cranberry galore. It finishes lengthy and weighty with a firm tannin underpinning. Aerate/decant for two hours and pour with spaghetti Bolognese under a generous grind of Parmigiano-Reggiano. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Allegrini ‘Palazzo Della Torre’ 2006
IGT Veronese $24.95 (672931) 13.5% alcohol
Thirty per cent of the grapes in this blend—Corvina Veronese, Rondinella and Sangiovese—were dried for several months then blended back in to the wine made at harvest, known as the Ripasso method. This wine is expressive, full of character and unique. Aromas and flavours of tar, dark berry fruit and toasty oak interweave with good moderating acidity and drying tannin on the well-balanced finish. A plate of aged hard cheese and a selection of deli meat complements this. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Monte Zovo Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso 2006 

DOC Valpolicella Superiore $19.95 (023523) 14.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This red blend—Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara—is rich and concentrated with expressive aromas and flavours of crushed, dried berry fruit, ripe dark cherry and toasty notes. It’s medium bodied and very generously textured with a lengthy fruit-forward finish. It’s ready to drink now, either on its own or poured alongside a rich lamb or beef daube. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Zenato Amarone Della Valpolicella 2005
DOC Valpolicella $49.95 (413179) 16.5% alcohol
Harvested in August/September, the grapes were left on drying mats until January before being pressed and fermented, concentrating the sugars and flavours in this full-bodied beauty. A wash of flavour—spice cake, raisin, macerated cherry and black plum coalesce with ripe tannin and excellent moderating acidity. It’s generously textured and sports a warm lingering lip-smacking finish. This is very good Amarone that’s very well priced. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Quinta Dos Carvalhais ‘Duque de Viseu’ White 2008
DOC Dão $12.95 (980227) 13.0% alcohol
Crisp and refreshing, this also has the oomph and pizzazz to partner with a variety of lightly herbed veal and chicken appetizers and mains. Expect a solid stream of racy citrus flavour mingling with hints of pineapple and spice-infused stone fruit. Its light to medium bodied with good texture and balance sporting an attractive price. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Beronia Reserva 2005
DOCa Rioja $17.95 (050203) 13.5% alcohol
This blend—Tempranillo, Graciano, Mazuelo a.k.a. Carignan—delivers a nose of toasty oak, mixed field berry fruit and spice. You’ll get a replay of those on the palate along with pretty impressive balance, texture and weight. It finishes lengthy and redolent of new leather and gobs of up-front ripe fruit flavour interwoven with a solid tannin grip. Aerate/decant a couple of hours then sip with meat-laden tomato-based paella. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar
Descendientes de J. Palacios ‘Pétalos’ 2007
DO Bierzo $23.95 (675207) 14.0% alcohol
Iconic Alvaro Palacios, of Priorat fame, and cousin Ricardo Perez, partner in this expressive entry-level red from re-discovered old vines of the obscure Mencía grape growing on precipitous hillsides in stressed soils to make this. It opens with a fresh and lively nose of mint, charred oak and red berry aromas as segue to a mid-weight hugely textured shower of sweet succulent flavour—bramble berry and ripe mulberry interwoven with mineral and earthy accents. The lengthy well-balanced finish also showcases ripe supple tannin. It’s elegant in structure and complexity—highly recommended. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO

Argentina

**** drink now
Familia Zuccardi ‘Fuzion’ Chenin Blanc / Chardonnay 2009
Mendoza $7.45 (119800) 13.0% alcohol
This is the new 2009 vintage with a similar result to the ‘08—great for sipping and food pairing and good value. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and well balanced with flavours of ripe citrus, pineapple and spiced yellow plum. It finishes crisp and tangy making it an easy pairing with seafood or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Familia Zuccardi ‘Fuzion’ Shiraz / Malbec 2009
Mendoza $7.45 (83188) 13.5% alcohol
With spice, earthy and grapey aromas on the nose, this dishes out flavours of sweet ripe cherry and mixed berry fruit. It’s light to mid weight with good acidity and a lengthy clean finish reminiscent of spiced pie cherry with leafy accents. This pairs particularly well with pasta in a tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Familia Zuccardi ‘Fuzion Alta Reserva’ Malbec 2009
Mendoza $9.95 (8135475) 14.0% alcohol
Subtle aromas of exotic spice and dark crushed berries easily transition to flavours of blueberry, mulberry and black Damson plum on the palate. It’s mid weight and generously textured making it a lovely mouthful of well-balanced red wine. The lingering finish layers on delightful hints of milk chocolate. It’s a step up in price from their entry level red and a leap ahead of most under ten dollars. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario

**** drink now
Peninsula Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (53678) 13.0% alcohol
Sporting a spiffy new label, aromas of savoury herb and mineral accents waft from the glass. Mouth-watering flavours of white grapefruit and crisp green apple wash over the palate in waves. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a nicely balanced and lip-smacking finish of citrus tang and hints of ripe yellow plum. Crisp and refreshing sipped on its own; it ratchets up a notch paired with skillet-seared tilapia or trout under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Peninsula Ridge ‘Inox’ Chardonnay 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (594200) 13.0% alcohol
With apple and pear aromas plus accents of minerality on the nose, this delivers great purity of fruit with a persistent stream of ripe apple, waxy lemon tang and spiced white peach. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and yet another notch in the ‘Inox’ belt of wine punching well above the price. It sustains its well-paced delivery through the long refreshing finish. (Vic Harradine)

*** drink now
Peninsula Ridge Shiraz 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (70052) 12.5% alcohol
Expressive black licorice, minty and mixed spice aromas abound off this tang-laden red. There’s a solid spine of acidity throughout bolstered by fruit flavours of racy cranberry, pie cherry and red currant. It’s mid weight and textured with a dry lip-smacking finish layering on accents of savoury herb. This is paired perfectly with tortellini in spicy tomato sauce or spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Strewn ‘Barrel Aged’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $12.95 (522730) 12.9% alcohol
Ripe spiced apple aromas open this well-paced well-priced Chardonnay. There’s a bare wisp of oak, it’s generously textured delivering a delectable mouthful of refreshing fruit flavour with yellow peach, green apple and accents of ripe pineapple. It finishes lengthy balanced and delicious. Give it a go with rotisserie-roast chicken-to-go from your local supermarket. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Strewn ‘Rogues Lot’ Cabernet Franc / Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (65342) 12.5% alcohol
There are spicy, earthy and red berry fruit aromas galore on the expressive nose of this flavourful red blend. Red cherry and ripe dark berry flavours glide along a bed of generous texture in this mellow and easy-to-drink red. It’s medium weight with a firm finish of tangy cranberry and spiced black plum. It pairs well with pizza and pasta in a tomato-based sauce. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Strewn ‘Semi-Dry’ Riesling 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $10.95 (616599) 10.9% alcohol
This opens with a terrific nose of those delightful aromas of honeyed apple and pear. It’s light on its feet delivering a steady wash of that sweet and tang, yin and yang tasting experience that pairs so well with spicy Asian cuisine. This is also delicate enough to pair with all manner of seafood, spice or not. Garlic and buttered pan-seared shrimp pairs well. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa

**** drink now
Robertson Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2008
WO Robertson $10.95 (129684) 12.5% alcohol
The subtle nose of tree fruit and honeydew melon segue a well-balanced wave of ripe sweet pineapple and red licorice flavour with accents of lemon chiffon pie. It’s light to medium bodied, generously textured and dishes out a satisfying and lingering finish. It earned its final half star on value and ability to pair with food. Pan-seared fish, veal, chicken and pork are all potential partners. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

**** drink or cellar
Colio Estate Vineyards ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Franc 2005
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $20.95 12.7% alcohol
This is nicely textured and well structured. Graphite, mineral and gamey notes dominate the lifted aromas while the racy dry flavours deliver a persistent tang-laden stream of minty cherry, pomegranate and cranberry. It’s mid weight and generously textured showcasing an herbaceous finish of tobacco leaf, oak and pomegranate flavour. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours and serve with Swiss steak. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Pillitteri Estates Winery Cabernet Franc 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.00 13.5% alcohol
Bright red berry and cherry aromas segue sweet rich flavours of black currant, mulberry and minty lip-smacking cranberries. This is well balanced and structured with an underpinning of firm tannin. Generously textured and medium to full bodied, the aftertaste dishes out tang-laden red berry fruit along with a drying aftertaste. Aerate/decant for three hours and pour alongside a rare- to medium-rare grilled rib eye. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 cellar
Strewn ‘Terroir’ Cabernet Franc 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $32.00 12.9% alcohol
Spice and dark field berry fruit aromas segue full-bore flavours—ripe black cherry, cranberry and spiced black plum—that persist through the lengthy dry finish. For now, it’s the firm tannin structure that’s predominant, but two more years in the bottle or a three-hour aeration/decant will help smooth them out. It’s mid weight, generously textured and dishes out nuances of espresso roast and more ripe fruit flavours on the drying aftertaste. Drink 2012 to 2016. Order on-line direct from Strewn or pick up from the winery. (Vic Harradine)

**** cellar
Strewn Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 12.9% alcohol
Aromas of mineral, earthiness and black plum roll off this cellar dweller while the fruit-forward flavours—black currant, black Bing cherry, pomegranate, with welcomed accents of chocolate and mint. It’s medium to full bodied, nicely textured and wrapped firmly in a ripe, but firm tannin grip. It finishes well balanced, dry and full of promise. Drink 2013 to 2018 alongside a slab of strip loin grilled rare to medium rare. Order on-line direct from Strewn or pick up from the winery. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers,

Vic

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 starsWines of excellence
3 starsWines well worth trying
2  starsWines below average, but drinkable
1 starWines better avoided, unless desperate
half starRepresents a half star
2 glassesWe agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar