July 4, 2009 Vintages Release
This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter contains the familiar country/region format as found in the 'Main Release' with wines reviewed in the order they appear in the Vintages Release brochure. You’ll find an ‘al fresco’ section at the front of the brochure; winecurrent ignored that section as those wines are repeated in the Main Release.- LCBO strike update - It appears highly likely that the tentative agreement reached between the OPSEU bargaining team and the LCBO will be ratified by the 6000 union members and agreed to by the LCBO Board of Directors and the Government of Ontario through an Order-in-Council, thereby avoiding a strike.
- Closed Canada Day - All LCBO retail stores will be closed Wednesday, July 1 – Canada Day. Some LCBO agency stores—small outlets in rural areas—will observe their normal hours of business.
- July 1, Canada Day – Seventeen wines from Ontario are reviewed.
- A perfect ten – Ten wines scoring 4½ stars and up costing less than $20 are scattered throughout the newsletter.
- Finding Waldo – Two stunning wines rang the bell earning 5 stars.
Canada: White Wine
Cave Spring Cellars ‘Estate’ Riesling 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment $17.95 (286377)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) The '07 vintage in Niagara produced exciting wines and this is one. The lifted aromas of mineral, citrus and spice introduce a full-bodied and fully textured glorious burst of flavours—Granny Smith apple and oodles of citrus zest and raciness. It's dry, impeccably balanced and lip-smacking good. This is a Vintages Essentials and always available in selected LCBO stores. (Vic Harradine)
Cave Spring Cellars ‘Indian Summer’ Riesling 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 375 mL (415901)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) After a one year hiatus, this stunning dessert wine is back on the shelves. The partially frozen grapes were hand picked over 6 weeks at an average of 30.4 Brix (the sugar level of the unfermented grape), which is just below that of ice wine. Look for a huge mouthful of honeyed mango, candied orange, lemon peel, and spiced apple pie that's balanced with good acidity that keeps it far from cloying. Good to go now with a fruit compote dessert, you can also safely cellar this for 7 or 8 years. (Vic Harradine)
Burrowing Owl Estate Winery Chardonnay 2006
VQA Okanagan Valley $28.95 (726604) 14% alcohol
There are lifted aromas of oak and tropical fruit on the nose while the flavour profile includes a mélange of delightful fruit—ripe yellow peach, succulent pear and spice-infused nectarine. It’s deftly integrated, mid weight and sports generous texture and a lingering finish that layers on a shower of pink grapefruit tang. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)
Canada: Rosé Wine
Strewn Cabernet Rosé 2008
VQA Ontario $12.95 (467753) 10.6% alcohol
Built for easy drinking in the summer sun, this delivers aromas and flavours of freshly sliced strawberry, raspberry and cranberry. It’s light on its feet with a racy zesty finish that adds a nice touch of mixed spice. Pair with lighter-styled appetizers using chicken, veal or seafood. (Vic Harradine)
U.S.A.: White Wine
Clay Station Viognier 2007
Lodi $17.95 (025411) 13.5% alcohol
Opening with a gorgeous bouquet of orange blossom and spiced honeyed tree fruit, this delivers quite a mouthful of flavour with yellow peach and honeyed poached pear to the fore. You’ll also find a silky smooth texture, and a lengthy finish that’s well balanced and full of spicy fruit flavour. Pair it with pan-seared scallops over a bed or arugula showered liberally with lemon butter. (Vic Harradine)
Ravenswood ‘Vintners Blend’ Chardonnay 2007
California $16.95 (683847) 13.5% alcohol
Well known for their Zin, it seems they’re equally as adept with their Chardonnay. Vanilla, toasty notes and spice box on the nose, this delivers a lovely glass of sumptuous flavour—tropical fruit, apricot and ripe citrus. It’s medium to full bodied, nicely textured and has a lingering finish that layers on additional flavours of sweet oak and mixed spice. This is the perfect dance partner with supermarket rotisserie-roasted chicken. (Vic Harradine)
U.S.A. Red Wine
Bonny Doon ‘Le Pousseur’ Syrah 2005
Central Coast, California $21.95
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Black pepper, smoked bacon and tarry black licorice aromas abound on this silky-smooth round and ready-to-drink offering. There’s a 4% touch of Grenache in this, adding to the complexity. The flavours are quite focused and laser-like, look for red currant, red cherry and racy cranberry throughout. It’s restrained at the moment, needing another two year’s bottle age and a three hour aeration / decant upon opening. Pair this with coq au vin. (Vic Harradine)
Le Baron Ranch ‘Three Sisters’ Zinfandel 2006
Sonoma County $22.95 (119966) 14.3% alcohol
This is a lovely wine with more than its fair share of juicy fruit flavours; it’s weighty, bold and, surprisingly, balanced. There are aromas and flavours of black currant, dark brambly berry and spiced black Damson plum. It’s full bodied, generously textured with a ripe tannin backbone and delivers a lengthy finish that adds touches of anise and espresso roast. Tuck this away until 2011 enjoying until 2015. (Vic Harradine)
Newman’s Own Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
California $17.95 (104182) 13.5% alcohol
This is fleshy and ready to drink. Aromas of berry fruit and mixed spice waft from the glass while the flavours are concentrated and juicy with loads of sweet Bing cherry and black currant predominant. It’s medium bodied and well textured delivering a lengthy finish brimming with plump dark berry flavour. It’s a crowd-pleasing wine with all profits going to charity—a concept that’s equally crowd pleasing. (Vic Harradine)
Rodney Strong ‘Alexander’s Crown’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Alexander Valley, California $39.95 (329961) 14.1% alcohol
Well structured and filled with fruit flavours, the gorgeous aromas of exotic spice, toasty oak and bramble berry serve notice that this is special. Rich succulent flavours of black currant, black raspberry and espresso roast dazzle the palate as they’re framed by ripe supple tannin and moderating acidity. The oak’s well integrated, overall it’s well balanced, and the finish lingers with a hint of mint. (Vic Harradine)
Pedestal Merlot 2004
Columbia Valley, Washington State $75.00 (064782) 14.7% alcohol
This is one of seven labels, each with its own superstar winemaker and premium Columbia Valley fruit—the ubiquitous Michel Rolland of Bordeaux and Mondovino fame fashioned this. Involved aromas of chocolate, black licorice and ripe juicy black fruit waft from this brawny, sweet, fruit-filled gem. A tsunami wave of flavour—cassis, sweet black cherry and ripe bramble berry—washes over the palate. There’s perceptible firm tannin as the fruit continues to stream through the lengthy balanced finish. (Vic Harradine)
Sequel Syrah 2005
Columbia Valley, Washington State $75.00 (064428) 14.7% alcohol
This is one of seven labels, each with its own superstar winemaker and premium Columbia Valley fruit— John Duval, the former and still revered Penfolds Grange winemaker 1986-2002, fashioned this. The clean focused nose of licorice, berry fruit and minerality provides segue to this perfectly balanced wine displaying great purity of fruit flavour. Black currant compote, Montmorency cherry and succulent mulberry are carried along a silky smooth texture mingling with ripe supple tannin. The oak has been seamlessly integrated and the finish lingers fabulously. (Vic Harradine)
Z52 ‘Agnes Vineyard Old Vines’ Zinfandel 2005
Lodi, California $28.95 14.9% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This wine is big! There’s an expressive nose of plum and blackberry with hints of spice. On the palate the acidity starts low giving you the full impact of the big chewy fruit and the full bodied style. It then turns it on to lead you to a balanced tart finish. Ever present and underneath is the big alcohol that simply cannot be ignored. Enjoy it with a slab-sized serving of BBQ ribs. (Dave Isaacs)
U.S.A.: Rosé Wine
Delicato ‘Loredona’ Syrah Rosé 2008
California $12.95 (120246) 12.0% alcohol
This is a crisp and refreshing delightful Rosé that also provides good value—it earned its final half star because of it. Aromas of red raspberry and freshly sliced strawberry open up this slightly off-dry beauty. The flavours are an amalgam of strawberry, sugared rhubarb, spice and ripe ruby red grapefruit. They provide that wonderful sweet and tang sensation that’s so refreshing when sipped on its own and is also particularly versatile with food. Pair this with spicy Asian cuisine, a plate of antipasto or grilled chicken. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: White Wine
Hope Estate Chardonnay 2007
Hunter Valley, New South Wales $15.95 (651331) 13% alcohol
Ten individual blocks of carefully selected premium fruit were vinified separately then barrel-fermented in French oak to achieve this purity and richness of flavour and texture. Perfumed aromas and flavours include toasty oak, tropical fruit—mango and pineapple—plus ultra-ripe Golden Delicious apple. It’s medium to full bodied, the texture’s very generous and the well-integrated aftertaste adds a glorious hit of mouth-watering citrus acidity. Pick up an armful for summer enjoyment. (Vic Harradine)
Australia: Red Wine
Chateau Reynella ‘Basket Pressed’ Shiraz 2005
McLaren Vale, South Australia $34.95 (510628)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) All smoke and oak on the nose; it settles down nicely on the palate delivering a fruit basket of dark berry flavours with cherry, currant and raspberry predominant. There's tannin for structure and zesty tang for balance in this medium-bodied red. It finishes spicy with hints of licorice, spice and black plum flavours. Lovely sipped on its own, it also pairs well with rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
Rockbare Shiraz 2006
McLaren Vale $20.95 (661991)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) In this case, the 15.5% alcohol is apparent on the nose. There's also attractive dark cherry, cassis and milk chocolate aromas balanced with a touch of mint and black licorice. Peppery notes join the fruit on the palate while it's very full bodied and softly structured. There's just enough tannin to create balance with the gobs of dark, dried fruit. This wine demands the fullest-bodied of meals; I'm thinking beef tenderloin smothered in gorgonzola. (Mark Tandan)
X & Y Cabernet/Merlot 2004
Margaret River, Western Australia $17.95 (107995) 14.5% alcohol
Chocolate, red berry fruit and earthy aromas waft from the glass of this taut and tightly focused racy red. Look for tangy flavours of cranberry, pie cherry and pomegranate in this light-to medium-bodied offering. It finishes clean and a willing dance partner to tomato-based dishes like pizza and pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand: White Wine
Kim Crawford Unoaked Chardonnay 2007
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (991950)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Tropical fruit and spiced yellow plum on the nose, this delivers sweet ripe tree fruit flavours—yellow peach, nectarine, Royal Gala apple and pear—that glide along on an ultra-smooth creamy texture. It’s medium weight and provides a crisp clean finish brimming with zesty citrus flavours. With the first glass as delicious as the third, it’s great on its own or when paired with lightly herbed and spiced chicken, veal or seafood dishes. (Vic Harradine)
Villa Maria ‘Private Bin’ Pinot Gris 2007
East Coast $18.95 (727255) 14% alcohol
From one of New Zealand’s most decorated wineries, this was sourced from 3 areas—Hawkes Bay, Gisborne, Marlborough. Mixed spice, ripe apple and nectarine aromas lead the way to this medium-bodied beautifully textured wine; it was left on its lees (spent yeast cells) for 2 months to develop that silky smooth mouth feel. Laden with tree fruit flavour—yellow plum, apple and pear—it’s enhanced by a squirt of racy citrus tang on the lengthy well-balanced aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
France: White Wine
Lucien Albrecht Réserve Gewürztraminer 2007
AOC Alsace $21.95 (926931) 12.5% alcohol
This is light on its feet, the perfect summer sipper. You’ll get perfumed aromas of rosewater on the nose and even more on the palate as ripe pit fruit—yellow peach and nectarine—are infused with sweet rosewater. There’s a nice hit of white grapefruit on the finish providing good sweet and tang balance with a welcomed bite on the very end. This pairs well with spicy Asian cuisine, try tandoori chicken with buttered garlic naan. (Vic Harradine)
Beauvignac Viognier 2008
AOC Vins de Pays d’Oc $14.95 (525295)
Succulent sweet flavour and a very generous texture mark this a lovely quaffing wine. Aromas of orange blossom and honey waft off the glass while the palate’s treated to a cornucopia of flavours, peach, apple and honeyed pear among them. It’s medium weight and sports a nicely balanced finish. (Vic Harradine)
France: Red Wine
Château de Jau 2006
AOC Côtes du Roussillon-Villages $14.95 (955070) 13.0% alcohol
The price-quality balance tips in your favour—pick up an armful. Spice box, floral notes and leather on the nose, this is mellow and plump with ripe fruit flavours of cherry and black currant. It’s medium weight, nicely textured and holds those juicy flavours throughout the finish. This is just the wine to pour alongside grilled chicken, burgers and gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)
Château de la Tuilerie Syrah/Grenache 2007
AOC Costières de Nîmes $15.95 (126128) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of dark field berry and savoury garrigue drift off this rich and concentrated blend. It’s medium to full bodied and well structured with gorgeous flavours of black plum and cassis laid over a bed of ripe tannin. It finishes lengthy and deftly balanced by a squirt of moderating acidity—each sip’s as good or better than the last. Excelling with food, the folks fromVintages suggest lamb tagine with fennel—sounds perfect. Pick up six or more drinking them over the next three-plus years. (Vic Harradine)
France: Rosé Wine
Perrin & Fils Tavel Rosé 2008
AOC Tavel $19.95 (680801) 14.0% alcohol
From one the world’s premiere wineries you’d expect something special—it is. The pungent nose delivers aromas of spiced cherry, pomegranate and minerality. There’s a boatload of well-textured and nicely balanced flavours with red currant, cherry and freshly picked strawberry to the fore. The aftertaste lingers and is fully flavoured. This is lovely sipped on its own with the body and oomph to pair with main course dishes like roast chicken or pan-seared salmon steak drizzled with lemon butter. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: White Wine
Ricossa Moscato d’Asti 2008
DOCG Piemonte $14.95 (072272) 5.5% alcohol
Summer in a glass, this spritzy summer quaffer is light in body and alcohol with sweet fruit flavour galore. There are Muscat grape-like aromas and flavour along with ultra-ripe tropical fruit and lemon gelato. This is a good choice to serve arriving guests as a welcoming wine or when sitting around the yard with friends. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: Red Wine
Batasiolo Barbaresco 2005
DOCG Piemonte $33.95 (037051) 14.0% alcohol
This is brawny and full flavoured with a gorgeous bouquet of mint, leather, dark fruit and floral nuances. The delectable flavours are a-typical for Nebbiolo with minty cherry and dark sweet chocolate arriving in waves. This is full bodied, nicely textured and wrapped in a firm underpinning of perceptible tannin. The lingering aftertaste layers on a welcomed moderating squirt of tang. Drink 2012 to 2018 alongside hearty stew. (Vic Harradine)
Fontanafredda Barbera ‘Briccotondo’ 2007
DOC Piedmont $15.95 (072348)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Rich and perfumed black currant and Earl Grey tea aromas, a.k.a. bergamot, open this juicy well-balanced red. There’s a rush of intense and expressive fruit flavours with black raspberry, cassis and dark bitter-sweet chocolate predominant. It’s fully textured and well structured with ripe tannins and a lingering fruity finish. The price-quality balance is tipped crazily in your favour, pick up a cartful for drinking over the next three years. You’ll be paying well over twenty dollars for a wine of this calibre by then. This is a Vintages Essentials wine, always available in select LCBO stores. (Vic Harradine)
Menhir ‘Quota 29’ Primitivo 2006
IGT Salento $14.95 (123380)14.0% alcohol
Soft, plump and fleshy, you’ll find sweet fruit flavours galore in this straightforward crowd-pleasing red. Enjoy aromas and flavours of raspberry jam, freshly sliced strawberry and handfuls of savoury herbs and spice. It’s medium bodied with a fruit –forward finish. Pair with pasta in arrabbiata sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Bellini Riserva Chianti Rufina 2004
DOCG Chianti $22.95 (125088) 12.5% alcohol
The involved bouquet includes toasty oak, mixed field berry and hints of espresso roast. There’s excellent complexity and richness of flavour in this medium-bodied and nicely textured wine with succulent Bing cherry, sweet vanillin and spice predominant. The dry tangy finish lingers setting it up as a willing partner for veal scallopini with tomato caper sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Fattoria ‘La Ripa’ Riserva Chianti Classico 2006
DOCG Chianti Classico $26.95 (984401) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of dark berry fruit, exotic spice and floral notes stream from the glass while the lively flavours are in the red berry and cherry zones. This lives up to its breeding providing good value as well. It’s medium weight and framed by moderating acidity, ripe tannin and a lingering well-integrated finish. (Vic Harradine)
Querciabella Chianti Classico 2006
DOCG Chianti Classico $34.95 (728816) 13.5% alcohol
This is stylish and rich showing complexity and the ability to age. There are oodles of black currant and cherry aromas on the nose while the flavours are sweet and succulent—Bing cherry, bramble berry and bitter-sweet chocolate. It’s weighty—a firm tannin structure—with good texture and a lengthy finish that adds some lovely hints of mocha and spice. Pour this alongside osso bucco after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)
Torri Riserva Chianti Colli Senesi 2005
DOCG Chianti Colli Senesi $16.95 (744243) 12.5% alcohol
There’s good value in this straightforward mid-weight medium-textured red. It’s taut and racy on the palate with a stream of red currant and red cherry zing. There are few distractions with imperceptible tannin and an integrated finish. Pour with a tomato-based vegetarian sauce and pasta. (Vic Harradine)
Le Tobele Amarone Della Valpolicella 2005
DOC Valpolicella $49.95 (106898) 15.0% alcohol
Enticing aromas of spice cake, fig and tarry notes rocket off the glass of this robust and mouth-filling gem. The fruit-forward flavours are a delectable amalgam of black juicy Bing cherry, black currant, espresso roast and dark bitter sweet chocolate. It’s framed by moderating acidity and ripe tannin, and sports a lingering well-integrated finish. Amarone lovers—isn’t everyone?—will pick up a few reveling in the good value it presents. (Vic Harradine)
Portugal: Red Wine
Quinta da Corregosa Tinto 2007
DOC Douro $16.95 (115725) 14.0% alcohol
This punches well above its price starting with a focused nose of pungent savoury herb and spice with hints of coffee bean. Ripe and juicy flavours drench the palate with black currant, Bing cherry and cranberry to the fore. Medium bodied, well balanced and sporting a lingering aftertaste, this sips beautifully on its own and pairs well with grilled strip loin. Give serious thought to a multiple purchase, drinking them over the next three years. (Vic Harradine)
Spain: Red Wine
Seleccion de Torres ‘Celeste’ Crianza 2005
DO Ribera del Duero $19.95 (672691) 14.5% alcohol
Winecurrent awarded the 2004 a similar rave review at this price—a wine from a premiere producer; you could continue or start a vertical. The rich and concentrated flavours include succulent black cherry, licorice and sweet kirsch liqueur. The luxurious and lingering finish layers on bramble berry and tarry notes. It’s weighty, well integrated and will reward patience—drink 2011 to 2016. It’ll also reward impatience, providing you aerate/decant two hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)
Fortius Gran Reserva 1999
DO Navarra $23.95 (114363) 13.5% alcohol
Shop early and pick up some of this. The tantalizing and involved nose offers a bouquet of aromas with old leather, dried berry fruit and spice cake to the fore. There are restrained, almost elegant, flavours of dried cherry, spiced black plum and gamey notes that mingle effortlessly and delectably on the lengthy finish. This is well integrated, mid weight and offers fabulous value for a decade-old quality red. Drink over the next 3 years. (Vic Harradine)
Bodegas Lan Reserva 2004
DOCa Rioja $23.95 (042929) 13.5% alcohol
The quiet nose offers wisps of toasty oak, leather and dried berry fruit while the flavours are quite lively with red cherry, anise and ripe boysenberry among them. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a long luxurious finish sporting drying tannin and good berry fruit flavour. Pour with spicy tomato- and meat-based paella. (Vic Harradine)
Ontañón Crianza 2005
DOCa Rioja $16.95 (976910) 13.0% alcohol
There’s good flavour and balance in this straightforward and uncomplicated Spanish red. The bouquet offers up spice box and baked custard. Look for a solid core of mixed red field berry fruit flavour—cranberry, raspberry and currant—with a drying finish that layers on mocha, a generous squirt of tang and some green notes at the very end. (Vic Harradine)
New in Vintages
Herdade do Esporão ‘Reserve Red’ 2006
DOC Alentejo, Portugal $24.95 (606590) 14.5% alcohol
This is a gorgeous blend—Trincadeira, Aragonês (a.k.a.Tempranillo), Cabernet Sauvignon and Alicante Bouschet—flirting with 5 stars; it’s an oft-overlooked wine bargain in the LCBO. It’s rich, powerful and brimming with aromas and flavours of boysenberry, cassis and succulent Bing cherry. The tannin is ripe and supple providing solid structure for this impeccably balanced gem. The finish truly lingers with a luxurious display of ripe fruit and balancing acidity. This is a Vintages Essentials wine, always available in selected stores. (Vic Harradine)
Bodegas Julian Chivite ‘Gran Fuedo Reserva’ 2004
DO Navarra $15.95 (479014) 13% alcohol
A red blend—Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot—that was aged in American and French oak for 18 months, this delivers a solid stream of red berry and red cherry fruit flavours along with hints of mixed spice and wisps of well-integrated oak. It’s ready for the glass with medium weight, an integrated finish and a spine of moderating acidity throughout. It shines with tomato-based sauces and pasta. This is a Vintages Essentials wine, always available in selected stores. (Vic Harradine)
New in the LCBO
Argentina
Finca La Chimiza Cabernet-Merlot 2008
Mendoza $7.95 (62047) 13% alcohol
This tangy, juicy delicious blend opens with expressive aromas of savoury herb, spice and dark cherry. There’s excellent balance with loads of racy zesty flavours—sour cherry and cranberry—with an ameliorating wave of black cherry and plum. It’s medium weight, well textured and sports a juicy flavourful finish. This really shines when paired with meat-laden pizza or spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)
Australia
Hardys ‘Stamp of Australia’ Riesling Gewürztraminer 2008
South Eastern Australia $9.95 (448548) 11.5% alcohol
This off-dry blend is highly aromatic with rosewater, mineral and exotic spice notes on the nose. Gorgeous soft flavours of ripe tropical fruit are nicely balanced by racy citrus tang on the lingering finish. It’s medium weight with a silky smooth texture and a sweet and tang lingering finish. It punches well above its weight providing good value. Pour alongside spicy Asian dishes. (Vic Harradine)
Hardys ‘Stamp of Australia’ Shiraz Cabernet 2008
South Eastern Australia $10.95 (338012) 14% alcohol
This offers very good value, earning its final half star because of it. Look for fresh red berry fruit and black currant on the nose and palate. There’s also a gusher of pie cherry and pomegranate on the finish making this a delicious wine sipped on its own or a perfect pairing with chicken, veal or red meat. Pair this with burgers, pizza or whatever red meat you pull off the Weber at your place. (Vic Harradine)
Wyndham Estate ‘Bin 525’ Shiraz Grenache 2008
South Eastern Australia $16.40 (96826) 14.5% alcohol
There are loads of sweet fruit flavours on the nose and even more on the palate with ripe succulent cherry, mulberry and brambly berry to the fore. This is medium bodied, generously textured, and well balanced—sporting a solid underpinning of firm tannin and excellent moderating acidity. There’s a glorious fruity finish that layers on a few sprigs of mixed herbs and spice. Decant/aerate for a couple hours then pour alongside grilled lamb tenderloins. (Vic Harradine)
California
Gnarly Head Chardonnay 2007
California $16.95 (68932) 14.5% alcohol
There’s a lot going on in this full-bodied fully textured Chard. The involved nose gives aromas of tropical fruit, vanilla and coconut while the palate’s treated to a persistent stream of focused flavour of spiced green apple and tropical fruit. It’s round and fleshy with a buttery lengthy finish, but still well integrated and not overblown. Roasted fowl with all the fixings or lobster dipped in clarified butter pair well. (Vic Harradine)
J. Lohr Estates Chardonnay 2007
Arroyo Seco $20.55 (258699) 13.5% alcohol
This is a gorgeous offering that delivers a huge mouthful of delectable flavour. Vanilla, tropical fruit and toffee apple aromas drift off the nose while flavours are a persistent stream of spiced green apple, more tropical fruit and well-integrated wisps of seasoned oak. It’s full bodied, well textured and sports a lengthy deftly balanced finish. Pour alongside rich creamy chicken and veal dishes or roast pork tenderloin in a whiskey cream sauce. (Vic Harradine)
Smoking Loon Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
California $17.95 (55517) 13.5% alcohol
Exotic Asian spice and black plum compote aromas drift off this round, mellow and ready-to-drink Cab. Rich and concentrated dark fruit flavours—cherry, mulberry and currant—wash over the palate. It’s medium bodied with a firm finish that layers on a moderating hit of sour cherry that keeps this deftly balanced and lip-smacking good. Pair with spicy pizza or pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)
Chile
Concha y Toro ‘Casillero del Diablo Reserva’ Chardonnay 2008
Central Valley $10.95 (58420) 13.5% alcohol
This is a solid-value white wine well suited to serving with a variety of foods like roast chicken or roast pork. Nutty, vanilla and green apple aromas settle into a refreshing mouthful of crisp flavours—green apple, pear, pineapple and melon. It’s medium to full bodied, well balanced with a nicely textured with a lingering finish. (Vic Harradine)
Concha y Toro ‘Casillero del Diablo Reserva’ Merlot 2008
Rapel Valley $12.95 (427088) 13.5% alcohol
Expressive rich dark plum and spice box aromas provide segue to this gorgeously textured full-flavoured beauty. Deep dark berry fruit and tarry plum flavours wash over the palate while the ripe tannin structure adds interest and weight. It’s well balanced and sports a tangy fruit forward finish. Good to go on its own, it pairs particularly well with stuffed pork tenderloin or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)
Concha y Toro ‘Casillero del Diablo Reserva’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Central Valley $10.95 (578641) 13% alcohol
This is a delightful blend of racy freshness complemented by tropical fruit flavours; look for grassy herbaceous aromas and lip-smacking flavours of lemon-lime citrus mingling with pineapple, gooseberry and melon. It’s light to medium bodied, generously textured and finishes crisp, clean and refreshing. This is a lovely deck-sipping wine pairing well with fish and shellfish. (Vic Harradine)
Concha y Toro ‘Casillero del Diablo Reserva’ Shiraz 2007
Rapel Valley $12.95 (568055) 13.5% alcohol
Here’s a popular crowd-pleasing red that deserves a spot on your summer barbeque list. It’s dark berry fruit and mocha on the nose while the flavours that drench the palate include sweet succulent blackberry, black cherry, and spiced black plum. It’s straightforward and fleshy, medium bodied and silky smooth. It finishes the way it starts making it a willing partner with burgers, gourmet sausage and other red meats you pull off the Broil King. (Vic Harradine)
Germany
Gustav Adolph Schmitt ‘Spätlese’ 2007
Prädikatswein Niersteiner Rheinhessen (262337) $10.95 9.5% alcohol
Floral and white peach aromas open this light-on-its-feet sweet wine—a (4) on the sugar code. It hits the palate with succulent ripe fruit flavour—yellow peach, ripe apple and sweet yellow plum—then finishes well integrated with a moderating squirt of citrus. A perfect summer sipper on its own, it also pairs well with fresh fruit salads or flans. (Vic Harradine)
Italy
Montalto Pinot Grigio 2007
IGT Sicilia $9.95 (73148) 13% alcohol
Tropical fruit and ripe yellow peach on the nose, this showers the palate with crisp and mouth-watering citrus flavours along with honeyed pear and green apple. There’s a hint of yellow plum on the finish as it cleans up crisp and refreshing. This is paired perfectly with pan-seared freshwater fish under a squirt of freshly squeezed lemon. (Vic Harradine)
New Zealand
Monkey Bay Pinot Grigio 2007
New Zealand $14.95 (93666) 13% alcohol
Lovely aromas of beeswax, honeyed pear and ripe apple mingle with perfumed wild flowers dancing off the glass of this medium-weight generously textured Kiwi. There’s an abundance of flavour—mouth-watering citrus tang, exotic spice and a pristine stream of sweet succulent apple and pear—that persists through the lingering finish. This extremely well-priced offering—it earned its final half star because of it—sips beautifully on its own and pairs well with spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario
Harbour Estates Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.15 (101238) 13% alcohol
Inviting aromas of dark berry, spice box and toasty notes provide segue to this juicy, rich and complex Cab. Flavours of cherry, cassis and mixed field berry bathe the palate in a persistent stream. They’re complimented by moderating acidity and underpinned by a ripe tannin structure. You can easily smooth them out with a two-hour aeration/decant and/or a thick juicy strip loin grilled rare to medium rare. This offers exceptional value, don’t miss out. (Vic Harradine)
Spain
Conde de Valdemar ‘Crianza’ 2004
DOC Rioja $13.95 (356089) 13.5% alcohol
You’ll find a ladleful of racy and zesty sour cherry and pomegranate flavours in this powerful serious Spanish red. There’s a solid stream of fruit—mulberry and red cherry—that’s still wound in a grainy tannin structure. The finish is grippy and lengthy. This needs a couple of more years, but if you can’t wait, decant/aerate for three hours then pour with grilled rib eye, done rare to medium rare. Good value here. (Vic Harradine)
New in Ontario Wineries
Harbour Estates Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.15 (101238) 13% alcohol
Inviting aromas of dark berry, spice box and toasty notes provide segue to this juicy, rich and complex Cab. Flavours of cherry, cassis and mixed field berry bathe the palate in a persistent stream. They’re complimented by moderating acidity and underpinned by a ripe tannin structure. You can easily smooth them out with a two-hour aeration/decant and/or a thick juicy strip loin grilled rare to medium rare. This offers exceptional value, don’t miss out. Purchase direct from the winery or on-line by the mixed dozen at Harbour Estates. (Vic Harradine)
Lailey Vineyard ‘impromptu’ 2007
VQA Niagara River $45.00 13.5% alcohol
This unfined, unfiltered, estate-grown stellar red blend is 68% Syrah, 12% Malbec, 12% Petit Verdot and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon—even better than the dazzling Syrah is on its own. Elegant and pure, it washes the palate with peppery spice, succulent cherry and hints of toasty oak—aged 15 months in French oak barrels. It’s rich, full bodied and well textured with a solid underpinning of still-resolving tannin. Drinking comfortably 2011 to 2018, enjoy the wait admiring the wrapping—it arrives in its own wooden box, the cork topped with a wax capsule. Pick up one or two from the winery or order by the case of six from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)
Lailey Vineyard ‘Meritage’ 2007
VQA Niagara River $30.00 13.5% alcohol
This red blend—54% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 16% Cabernet Sauvignon—delivers a full-bodied and deftly balanced wine that’s great now with seven or more years drinking potential. You’ll experience the ripe ’07 vintage in the softly spiced fruit-driven flavour and finish—succulent boysenberry, ripe black currant and dark mixed berry fruit. There’s toasty oak, ripe supple tannin and spice on the aftertaste. Sip on its own or pair with a slab of beef, grilled rare to medium rare. Pick up some from the winery or order by the case from Lailey.
Lailey Vineyard ‘Meritage – Canadian Oak’ 2007
VQA Niagara River $30.00 13.5% alcohol
This wine is from the same fruit and vinified exactly as the wine above, except it was aged in Canadian oak for seventeen months rather than French and American for fifteen. The difference? Purchase some of each and discover it for yourself. For me? The ‘Canadian Oak’ was more integrated, even at this early stage, and there were nuances of savoury spice not detected on the first wine. Pick up a couple of bottles of each from the winery or order by the case(s) from Lailey.
Lailey Vineyard Riesling 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.00 11% alcohol
Mineral, floral and herbaceous on the nose, it blossoms on the palate with flavours of racy pink grapefruit, white peach and a stream of citrussy tang. It’s medium bodied, well textured and gorgeously balanced with sweet and tang, that delightful yin and yang that pairs so well with Asian cuisine like pot stickers and spicy spring rolls. It finishes clean, crisp and lip-smacking good. Pick up some from the winery or order by the case from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)
Peninsula Ridge Estates ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 13% alcohol
Vanilla and smoky notes on the nose provide segue for the delicious and persistent stream of fruit-filled flavours with white peach, spiced green apple, racy mouth-watering citrus and ripe tropical fruit to the fore along with nuances of hazelnuts. The ten months oak ageing is well integrated, the texture smooth as satin and the finish deftly balanced and lingering. It’s a dazzling expression of the varietal and the wonderful ’07 vintage in Niagara. For office or home delivery order wine directly from Peninsula Ridge. (Vic Harradine)
Peninsula Ridge Estates Meritage 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.95 13% alcohol
This is chockfull of fruit aromas and flavours in the dark ripe and juicy zone—black currant, Bing cherry and bramble berry along with nuances of exotic spice. The persistent stream of succulent flavour is carried along on a generously textured mouth feel on a bed of ripe supple tannin. Well balanced, the lengthy finish provides more of the same with the French oak (20% new) seamlessly integrated. This crowd-pleaser is lovely on its own shining equally as bright with food—roast chicken or duck is divine. For office or home delivery order wine directly from Peninsula Ridge. (Vic Harradine)
Peninsula Ridge Estates ‘Wismer Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $18.95 (116475) 13% alcohol
This is a joy to sip and shows great versatility when pairing with food – an outstanding wine. With notes of pineapple and white flowers on the nose, the mid-palate is treated to gooseberry and herbaceous notes while the crisp refreshing finish provides a shower of zingy lip-smacking citrus tang. It’s mid weight and generously textured throughout. Linguine with calamari and garlic or Caesar salad laden with grilled chicken strips pair exceptionally well. For office or home delivery order wine directly from Peninsula Ridge. (Vic Harradine)
Peninsula Ridge Estates Viognier 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $ 14.95 (662601) 13% alcohol
Aromas of honey and beeswax are prominent on the nose while the palate is treated to a gusher of ripe tree fruit flavours—honeyed pear, Golden Delicious apple, succulent yellow peach, and mixed spice. The silky smooth texture provides a frame for the deft balance and lingering fruit-filled finish. A lovely wine to quaff, even better paired with food; try prosciutto, goat cheese and roasted red pepper – delicious! For office or home delivery order wine directly from Peninsula Ridge. (Vic Harradine)
Srut Wine ‘Cab Couture’ Cabernets – Merlot 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $11.95 12.2% alcohol
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, this opens with a fragrant nose of spice box and dark berry fruit. Positioned for the hip n’ happening modern female, the palate receives a nice hit of juicy red berry fruit, moderating acidity and firm perceptible tannin, all in good balance. There’s good body and a nice texture. This is looking for burgers, pizza or gourmet sausage. Purchase on-line or in person at any of 160 Ontario Wine Rack stores. (Vic Harradine)
Srut Wine ‘Chardonista’ Chardonnay 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $11.95 12.8% alcohol
Fragrant aromas of ultra-ripe apple and spice waft form the glass of this straightforward and fun summer sipper. The tag line says it all, “The wine with legs.” Look for apple and pear flavours with a good surge of citrus on the finish. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and finishes clean, crisp and refreshing. Good to go on its own or paired with lighter appetizers, especially chicken or seafood. Purchase on-line or in person at any of 160 Ontario Wine Rack stores. (Vic Harradine)
Srut Wine ‘Red Over Heels’ Merlot 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $11.95 12.2% alcohol
This was built for food—meat-laden pizza, cheese burgers or pasta in a tomato sauce. Earthy with notes of camphor on the nose, look for ladles of sour cherry, savoury herb and cranberry flavours. It’s light bodied, simple and straightforward. Purchase on-line or in person at any of 160 Ontario Wine Rack stores. (Vic Harradine)
Srut Wine ‘Well-Heeled White’ Riesling - Gewürztraminer 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $11.95 11% alcohol
This is timely—light and fanciful yet full of spice and flavour—with summer-sipping weather upon us. The perfumed nose is all rosewater and exotic spice while the palate’s treated to a delectable mouthful of spicy fruit flavours with tangy citrus, ripe pineapple and spice galore. It’s light to medium bodied and finishes with a surge of mouth-watering citrus and ripe tree fruit flavour. ‘Yummy’ is an apt descriptor. Purchase online or in-person at any of 160 Ontario Wine Rack stores. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Vic
We use the following symbols when rating wines:
| Wines achieving nirvana |
| Wines of excellence |
| Wines well worth trying |
 | Wines below average, but drinkable |
 | Wines better avoided, unless desperate |
 | Represents a half star |
 | We agree —a brilliant wine! |
| Drink now and over the next 2 years |
| Drink now and over the next 5 years |
| Place in cellar |