June 20, 2009 Vintages Release

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature on Malbec from Argentina followed by a feature on Ontario wines for Canada Day and a mini feature on wine to gift on Father’s Day. The familiar country/region format follows in the 'Main Release' with wines reviewed in the order they appear in the Vintages Release brochure.

Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• Feeling patriotic – celebrate Canada Day choosing from over 20 Canadian wines reviewed, many found following the June 20 Vintages release
• Value-driven wines – twelve wines well under $20—most under $15—are to be found after the main release in the ‘New in the LCBO’ section
• Finding Waldo – eleven wines scoring 4½ stars and costing less than $20 are scattered throughout the newsletter

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Argentine Malbec

Andean Vineyards Malbec 2007
Mendoza $15.95 (125963) 13.5% alcohol
Toasty, smoky and oaky on the nose, it settles down nicely on the palate delivering a steady stream of spice and dark berry fruit on a medium-bodied and nicely textured frame. There’s good complexity and concentration plus a lengthy finish. The fruit was sourced from high-altitude organically grown 25 year-old vines. This punches well above its price delivering a juicy mouthful of well-balanced Malbec; pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)


Chakana Malbec 2008
Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza $13.95 (003509) 14% alcohol
There’s an abundance of sweet fruit flavour here—kirsch liqueur and black currant jam—that will have wide appeal at backyard get-togethers. It’s fleshy, straightforward and uncomplicated delivering good value and offering versatility with food—burgers, gourmet sausage along with most inexpensive cuts of red meat you pull off your barbie during the week. (Vic Harradine)


Navarro Correas ‘Alegoría Gran Reserva’ Malbec 2006
Mendoza $18.95 (028928) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of savoury herb and mixed field berry fruit roll off the glass of this medium-bodied nicely textured red. The flavours are rich and compelling with ripe mulberry, red licorice and dark brambly berry to the fore. There’s a hint of leafiness on the well-balanced drying finish. Aerate / decant for two hours before pouring alongside a prime cut of rare to medium-rare grilled beef. (Vic Harradine)


Kaiken ‘Ultra’ Malbec 2006
Mendoza $19.95 (50849)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) ‘Kaikenes’ are apparently wild geese that are indigenous to Patagonia. Who knew? This certainly has a lot of colour—deep inky ruby-purple, with super concentrated dark fruit on the nose. Pronounced on the palate as well with a full body, juicy acidity, 14.5% alcohol and flavours of raspberry, vanilla and smoke. (Lindsay Groves)


Dominio Del Plata ‘Susana Balbo Signature’ Malbec 2007
Mendoza $27.95 (079798) 14% alcohol
There’s good structure and concentration of flavour in this from the 10% Cabernet Sauvignon that also contributes a solid enjoyable underpinning of ripe tannin. The quiet nose offers spice box and dark berry aromas while the palate is treated to a persistent and silky smooth stream of flavour—ripe juicy Bing cherry and black raspberry. It’s medium to full bodied and offers a lingering finish that layers on hints of espresso roast. Aerate / decant a couple of hours before pouring. (Vic Harradine)


Trapiche ‘Broquel’ Malbec 2006
Mendoza, Argentina $15.95 (17210)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) With the price-quality balance heavily in your favour, keep a few on hand for barbeques. Fruit from vines 25 years old (on average) was hand picked and hand sorted spending 15 months in oak after fermentation and before bottling. Expressive aromas of spice box and field berry fruit segue rich and succulent flavours of black briary berry, spiced dark cherry and nuances of dark chocolate. There is perceptible tannin and a moderating spine of acidity that provides excellent balance. The finish is fruit forward and lengthy. (Vic Harradine)


Trivento ‘Golden Reserve’ Malbec 2006
Mendoza $24.95 (588731) 14.8% alcohol
Dark purple and brooding in the glass, it opens with an involved nose of exotic spice, dark berry fruit and roasted nuts. It’s thick, juicy and concentrated on the palate with a glorious rush of warm flavours—black currant, cherry and spiced black Damson plum compote. There’s a solid underpinning of moderating acidity and ripe tannin and a juicy, lip-smacking finish. Wonderful sipped on its own, it pairs particularly well with rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)


Viña Cobos ‘Bramare’ Malbec 2006
Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza $39.95 (123729) 15.2% alcohol
The top gun in this flight is pricey, but worth it; rocket-fuelled aromas and flavours dazzle the palate and senses. Asian spice and dark juicy berry aromas open this full-bodied fully textured behemoth. Flavours of cassis, boysenberry and moderating pie cherry are streamed in endless waves through the lingering mouth-watering finish. Drink now to 2015 alongside a slab of strip loin grilled rare and accompanied by a mess of grilled Portobello mushrooms. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

Château des Charmes Estate Riesling 2006
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $16.95 (277228)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This opens with lifted aromas of peaches and apples, with mineral and floral notes. A gorgeously textured surge of pit fruit flavours, yellow peach and yellow plum to the fore, is deftly balanced with clean and refreshing citrus tang on the lingering finish. A top drawer Riesling at a rock bottom price, pair with Sole Meunière. (Vic Harradine)


Malivoire Chardonnay Musqué 2008
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $11.95 (129759) 9% alcohol
Lifted aromas and gorgeous flavours will grab your attention and hold it with this gorgeously textured, clean and refreshing summer sipper. Look for sweet succulent flavours of orange marmalade, lemon drop candy and spritzy ripe citrus throughout. Good sipped on the patio on its own or when paired with fresh fruit desserts. Best when served well chilled. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine


Palatine Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $19.95 (121699)
This begins with a quiet nose of toasty notes and hints of floral and berry fruit, but shifts into high gear on the palate with a glorious array of luscious succulent fruit flavour—cassis, Bing cherry and boysenberry with a moderating squirt of balancing acidity. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and sports a well-balanced and lingering finish. Doff your hat to Palatine with one hand and grab a few bottles with the other; it offers great value. (Vic Harradine)

Father’s Day Gift Wine

Chateau St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Sonoma County, California $39.95 (977173) 14.2% alcohol
Deftly balanced, this delivers a delightful, almost elegant rendition of delectable California Cab. Aromas and flavours of dark juicy berry fruit—raspberry and cranberry—mingle with savoury spice, black plum and glorious hints of minty cherry. Medium bodied and very generously textured, it delivers a sumptuous lingering fruit-forward finish that sets it up as a natural partner with braised lamb shanks in a red wine sauce. (Vic Harradine)


Nick Faldo Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Coonawarra, South Australia $19.95 (001685) 14% alcohol
Winemaker Wayne Stehbens, Cabernet Sauvignon and Coonawarra on the same label commands attention. The subtle nose is redolent of savoury spice with hints of lavender. There’s a good delivery of dried dark berry fruit, black cherry and currant with loads of moderating acidity and drying tannin coupled with some minty green notes on the finish. Aerate / decant an hour or two and pour with spicy gourmet sausage or rare to medium-rare lamb tenderloins rubbed with rosemary. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Sparkling Wine

Astoria ‘Val de Brun’ Extra Dry Prosecco
VSAQ, Italy $16.95 (121020) 11% alcohol
You’ll discover leesy (a.k.a. yeast), nutty and floral notes on the nose along with zippy and zesty flavours of Granny Smith apple, pear and peach all carried along on a wonderful bed of bubbles. It’s refreshing and clean on the finish—the perfect summer-time sipper. Pour as an aperitif to welcome guests or with lightly herbed and spiced chicken or veal appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

Greg Norman ‘California Estates’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
North Coast $24.95 (008722) 14.4% alcohol
This is a juicy mouthful of California Cab delivering boatloads of succulent flavour with bramble berry, black raspberry and spiced dark plum to the fore. It’s not complex or complicated, but it is delicious. Medium bodied, nicely textured and very well balanced, the finish is nicely framed by supple tannin and moderating acidity. (Vic Harradine)


La Crema Pinot Noir 2007
Sonoma Coast $32.95 (719435) 13.9% alcohol
The ’07 rendition of this popular Pinot is well crafted delivering an array of tantalizing aromas—smoke, toast and black licorice. There’s a focused stream of flavour that follows—tangy sour cherry, zesty plum and black currant. It’s light to medium bodied, well textured and sports a well-balanced lip-smacking tangy finish that layers on lovely notes of savoury herb. (Vic Harradine)


Scott Harvey ‘Mountain Selection’ Zinfandel 2006
Amador County $22.95 (118752) 14.5% alcohol
There’s a lot to like here including the slightly restrained style compared to many California Zins. You’ll find lifted spice and toasty notes on the nose—the latter from 19 months in French oak—and a well-defined stream of deftly balanced flavours including tangy red cherry and black currant compote. The finish lingers, but it’s not the least bit overblown or jammy. Lovely sipped on its own, with the second glass as enjoyable as the first, it pairs well with pepper steak. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

Viña Cobos ‘Bramare’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza $39.95 (119297) 14.9% alcohol
Well structured, well balanced, well bred and well... delicious. Smoke, oak and spice box aromas rip off the glass of this medium-bodied, satiny-smooth gem. Pronounced flavours of succulent dark cherry, spicy cassis and dark minty cherry run through the lengthy finish. The tannins are just now resolving, best to aerate / decant for two hours before serving. Drink now to 2014 alongside a 2-inch-thick strip loin grilled medium rare. A hefty wine with a price tag to match. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

Concha Y Toro ‘Terrunyo Vineyard Selection’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Pirque, Maipo Valley $29.95 (562918) 14.5% alcohol
Dark purple in the glass, the aromas are all about dusty spicy dark berry fruit. Expect gobs of rich concentrated flavour with blackberrry, Bing cherry and berry fruit compote among them. It finishes with yet more of those delightful sweet fruit flavours framed by a solid underpinning of good acidity. Drinking well now, delightful poured alongside lamb kebabs. (Vic Harradine)


Santa Carolina 'Reserva de Familia' Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
DO Maipo Valley, Chile $19.95 (684597)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Look for mint, dark berry fruit and tarry aromas off this richly concentrated well-structured red. Scintillating layers of flavours caress the palate with dark, juicy cherry, zesty cranberry and black raspberry to the fore. It's beautifully balanced, has 12 months of perfectly integrated French oak and delivers a luxurious finish of lip-smacking ripe berry fruit, supple tannin and zesty tang. Pick up a half dozen; it's great value. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: White Wine

Poole’s Rock Wines ‘Cockfighter’s Ghost’ Verdelho 2008
Hunter Valley, Australia $18.95 (90985) 13% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Pale yellow with hints of green, this unheralded varietal offers excellent value punching above its price point. The pleasant nose offers floral and citrus notes while the palate is treated to a cornucopia of fresh fruit flavours with green apple, sweet yellow peach and a salad bowl of tropical fruit. It’s medium bodied, generously textured and finishes well balanced and lengthy in a blaze of clean refreshing citrus tang and sweet pit fruit. Versatile at the table, pair it with sea food or spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)


Sandalford ‘Element’ Classic White 2008
Western Australia $13.95 (090969) 12.5% alcohol
Sandalford lists this as 76% Chenin Blanc, 21% Verdelho, 2.5% Semillon, but it has the pungent herbaceous aromas of Sauvignon Blanc. The racy flavours are all about white grapefruit, zesty lemon-lime and hints of white peach. This is an enjoyable summer quaffer at a reasonable price. Give it a go with spice and garlic pan-seared prawns. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

Eldredge ‘Blue Chip’ Shiraz 2006
Clare Valley, South Australia $25.95 (963678) 14.8% alcohol
The price-quality ratio swings crazily in your favour—pick up a few for drinking now to 2015. Earthy, toasty and dark berry fruit aromas provide segue to this full-bore red from the cool-ish climate of the Clare. Spiced black plum, peppery cherry and warm black currant jam flavours run the entire length of this full-bodied, generously textured and deftly balanced wine. The lingering luxurious finish is lip-smacking delicious. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Rosé Wine

Peter Lehmann Rosé 2008
Barossa, South Australia $15.95 (034298) 12.5% alcohol
Old Grenache vines and the deft touch of the winemaking magicians at Lehmann coalesced to produce this brilliant-pink wine. Floral, spicy and red berry aromas introduce this crisp and refreshing Rosé. The flavours are zesty, refreshing and clean—strawberry, pomegranate and red raspberry. It’s medium bodied and sports a dry, zesty, tangy finish. Gorgeous as a summer aperitif, it pairs well with pan-seared salmon alongside steamed, barely wilted bok choy any time of year. (Vic Harradine)

Austria: White Wine

Schloss ‘Gobelsburg Steinsetz’ Grüner Veltliner 2007
Kamptal, Niederösterreich $23.95 (117473) 13% alcohol
This is another fine expression of the grape, Grüner Veltliner, that’s quickly gaining traction with knowledgeable wine-lovers. The lifted aromas consist of savoury herb and apple while the expressive flavours are in the ripe citrus and racy green apple zones with a distinct thread of minerality. It’s medium bodied, fairly textured and finishes crisp and refreshing with lovely hints of spice and herb. Pour alongside roast chicken with tarragon and crumbled goat cheese. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

Domaine de la Grange ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie 2007
AOC Muscadet Sèvre et Maine $14.95 (682625) 12% alcohol
Made for freshly shucked briny oysters, pour this alongside for a delicious treat. It’s light bodied and very nicely textured with distinctive spice and mineral nuances along with racy citrus tang. Those yeasty rising bread aromas come from the ‘sur lie’—the wine rested for a while on its ‘lees’ a.k.a. spent yeast cells, before bottling. It finishes crisp, clean and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

Bordeaux


Château Beaumont 2005
AOC Haut-Médoc $25.00 (500108) 13.5% alcohol
This opens with subtle aromas of rosewood, spice and hints of leather. The ripe black berry and dark juicy cherry flavours bathe the palate within a well-balanced frame of moderating acidity and generous texture. It’s medium to full bodied and sports a generous whack of firm tannin, especially on the lengthy finish. This will repay patient cellaring handsomely, drink 2011 to 2018. (Vic Harradine)


Château Courrèges 2005
AOC Premières Côtes de Bordeaux $24.95 (117606) 14% alcohol
Smoke, camphor and toasty aromas waft from this medium-bodied tangy red. There’s a generous and persistent stream of racy zesty flavours with cranberry, sour cherry and spiced plum that are underpinned by a firm tannin structure. Pour 2011 to 2015 alongside osso bucco or Swiss steak. (Vic Harradine)


Château Fougas ‘Maldoror’ 2005
AOC Côtes de Bourg $39.00 (500587) 13% alcohol
This shows great promise with an optimum drinking window 2012 to 2018. The lifted nose displays aromas of charred wood and dried currant. There are pronounced fruit flavours with black currant and pomegranate to the fore and they run through the lengthy finish. It’s medium bodied, fairly textured and well balanced with high notes of savoury herb at the end. It would be paired perfectly with rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

Loire

Domaine Pierre Sourdais ‘Tradition’ Chinon 2005
AOC Loire $20.95 (108506) 13% alcohol
This is a lovely expression of Cabernet Franc from terroir that seems to embrace it best. The quiet nose offers spice and floral notes while the palate is treated to zesty flavours of tangy red cherry, succulent blackberry and hints of cranberry. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with perceptible, but acceptable, tannin that melts away in the presence of a thick strip loin grilled rare to medium rare. (Vic Harradine)

Rhône Valley

Domaine Galévan ‘Paroles de Femme’ Côtes du Rhône 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône $15.00 (125930) 14.5% alcohol
You’ll go a long way to beat this price-quality ratio—load up the trunk. The perfumed nose delivers savoury herb, dark berry and plum jam aromas while the palate is washed in full-bore fruit flavours of warm sweet kirsch liqueur, succulent Bing cherry and spiced black plum. Full bodied and silky smooth, it’s surprisingly well balanced with enough structure and moderating acidity to keep it on track and enjoyable, glass after glass. It’s perfect for backyard barbies and on into winter with heartier meats and stews. (Vic Harradine)

Hungary: Red Wine

Hunyady Kékfrankos 2006
Kéthely, Hungary $16.95 (108498) 12.5% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Highly perfumed—spice redolent of expensive cologne, dark berry fruit and gamey notes—this delivers quite a mouthful of tangy zesty flavour—cassis, pie cherry and yet more spice to the fore. It’s light bodied with a firm tannic structure—aged 12 months in new Hungarian oak—and a dry sour cherry finish. Hungarian csirke paprikás (chicken paprikash) provides a geographical pairing that also works perfectly on the palate. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

Vesevo ‘Beneventano’ Aglianico 2006
IGT Campania $16.95 (120907) 13.5% alcohol
The expressive nose delivers aromas of red licorice, mixed red berry and freshly pressed grapes. It’s medium bodied, well textured and delivers mouth-filling waves of sweet succulent dark fruit flavour—brambly berry and cherry—with nuances of spice cake and fig showing up on the lingering well-balanced finish. There’s ripe acceptable tannin for structure and enough acidity for balance; what’s not to like? Pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)


Conti Sertoli Salis ‘Sassella Valtellina Superiore’ 2004
DOCG Lombardia $28.95 (119479) 12.5% alcohol
This is an interesting wine delivering complex and involved aromas and flavours. Savoury herb, fennel and espresso roast on the nose, it showcases a cornucopia of flavour that begins with simple red cherry then broadens and deepens with blackberry and cassis. It’s medium bodied and fairly textured with a dry lingering well-balanced finish that layers on hints of tar. Good to go now, after a two hour aeration / decant, it has the oomph to drink well into 2014 pouring nicely with rich meats and stews. (Vic Harradine)


Tenuta Cocci Grifoni ‘Le Torri’ 2005
DOC Rosso Piceno Superiore $18.95 (994863) 13% alcohol
Mellow and round, this is ready to drink now providing a nice mouthful of uncomplicated enjoyable wine. Red cherry and mixed field berry aromas abound in this medium-bodied and nicely textured well-balanced red. It finishes fruit forward with added nuances of red licorice. Pour with pasta in a tomato-based sauce like spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)


Firriato ‘Chiaramonto’ Nero d’Avola 2006
IGT Sicilia $18.95 (121145) 14% alcohol
The signature grape of Sicily, this delivers a good representation. Earthy and toasty on the nose, the flavours are straightforward and focused—red cherry and spiced red plum. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured sporting a lengthy juicy finish that layers on hints of spice box and mint. Roast game and rich meat dishes pair well. (Vic Harradine)


Fattoria dei Barbi ‘Morellino di Scansano’ 2006
DOC Toscana $17.95 (720177) 14% alcohol
Providing an uncomplicated glass of red, this offers up aromas of dried crushed dark berry fruit and spice-laden black plum. Flavours of dark berry fruit are underpinned by ripe supple tannin and framed by moderating acidity. The finish is medium length and balanced. This perks up considerably with food; pair with veal marsala. (Vic Harradine)


San Jacopo da Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico 2007
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (710194) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of blueberry and mint waft from the glass of this medium-bodied lightly textured Sangiovese. On the palate there’s a stream of red cherry and ripe cranberry flavour that’s tangy and well balanced. Winemaker and owner John Matta—three times Italian Winemaker of the Year—delivers yet another well-made, well-priced wine. As the Vintages catalogue suggests, it’s a good match with pasta in a meat sauce or pizza. (Vic Harradine)


Villa Trasqua Chianti Classico 2006
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (121160) 14.5% alcohol
Leather and dried fruit aromas provide segue to a succulent array of mouth-filling flavour with luscious blackberry, sweet Bing cherry and ripe cranberry galore. It’s medium bodied and fairly textured with a firm spine of moderating acidity and drying tannin on the lingering minty finish. This really shines with food, pair with braised lamb shanks. There’s good value here, consider a multiple purchase. (Vic Harradine)


Terri di Verona Ripasso Valpolicella 2006
DOC Valpolicella $17.95 (117127) 13.5% alcohol
Easily a star in this group (as illustrated on the label), you’ll want to consider a multiple purchase; it earned its final half star on the excellent value it offers. Floral and mixed spice on the nose, this shifts into high gear on the palate with succulent ripe fruit flavour—cherry and bramble berry—along with nuances of fig and dried fruit. It’s nicely textured medium bodied and sports a well-balanced lengthy fruit-driven finish. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in Vintages

Vintages Release: August 1, 2009

Finca Flichman ‘Expresiones - Reserve’ Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Mendoza, Argentina $15.95 (017111) 14.5% alcohol
Rich complex aromas rip from the glass of this well-structured generously textured beauty—black juicy Bing cherry, camphor and ripe boysenberry. It’s full bodied, richly textured and chockfull of delicious flavour with deep dark berry fruit and tangy black cherry to the fore. It received meticulous treatment—hand picked and 8 months in American and French oak. The finish lingers, but you shouldn’t as the word is out—this is divine. Delightful on its own, it pours well alongside grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: August 15, 2009

Finca Flichman Reserva Malbec 2007
Mendoza $12.95 (746727) 13.5% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Expressive aromas of ripe black fruit and spice box roll off this well-structured and medium-bodied red. This is rich and ready to drink with a cornucopia of flavours including black raspberry, cherry and kirsch liqueur. The lingering finish layers on espresso roast and date flavours. Serve with all manner of backyard BBQ fare—burgers, gourmet sausage or steak. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: September 12, 2009

Finca Flichman ‘Expresiones - Reserve’ Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Mendoza, Argentina $15.95 (507707) 14% alcohol
This well-bred red—8 months in new French and American oak, hand-harvested fruit, 60% Malbec from 30 year-old estate vines—delivers a racy mouthful. There’s exotic spice, leather and blackberry on the nose while the flavours are zesty and tangy with sour cherry, black currant and pomegranate to the fore. It has persistent grainy tannin and minty notes on the drying finish. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: September 26, 2009

Finca Flichman 'Gestos' Malbec 2007
Mendoza $15.95 (068999) 14% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Complex and alluring, expect a subtle nose that includes aromas of briary berry and gamey notes then a gorgeous mouthful of rich sweet concentrated fruit flavours with spiced black plum and Bing cherry to the fore. There's enough tannin for structure and interest plus generous acidity for impeccable balance; the 8 months of French oak has been seamlessly integrated. Give thought to a multiple purchase. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 (001545) 12.5% alcohol
Opening with a subdued nose of floral, earthy and toasty notes, it delivers a steady stream of focused flavour and zesty tang. There’s sour cherry, beetroot and ripe cranberry that’s framed by a firm tannin structure. It finishes with a burst of red cherry fruit and sprigs of savoury spice. This is a Vintages Essentials wine, always available in select LCBO stores. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO

After tasting and spitting through a whack of General Purchase reds and whites, here are a few of my top picks for value-driven wines.

Australia

Jindalee Shiraz 2008
South Eastern Australia $10.95 (591818) 14% alcohol
Reeling from the recession? Here’s a red that rocks—it’s flavour filled, crowd pleasing and budget friendly. Look for sweet juicy fruit flavours of succulent black cherry and ripe sweet brambly berry. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured delivering a lengthy well-balanced finish of delicious spicy dark berry fruit. Good bang for the buck and it pairs well with burgers, pizza and pasta dishes. (Vic Harradine)

California

Black Anvil Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
California $12.90 (45575) 13.5% alcohol
Punching well above its price, this California Cab offers a huge mouthful of ripe sweet fruit flavour with cherry and black raspberry to the fore. It has good balance (offering moderating acidity), is well structured (the tannins are perceptible and acceptable) and sports a lingering fruity finish. Good to go now with grilled red meats, pizza and burgers. (Vic Harradine)

France

Francois Lurton ‘Les fumées blanches’ 2008
Vin de Pays du Comte Tolosan $11.45 (472555) 12% alcohol
There are herbaceous notes of nettles and cut grass on the nose along with hints of smoke in this Sauvignon Blanc. It’s pungent and zesty on the palate with expressive flavours of gooseberry, white grapefruit and lemon zest—more Kiwi than French. This is medium bodied, nicely textured, well balanced and delivers a mouth-watering lip-smacking finish of citrussy tang. Pour alongside pan-seared fish, prawns or scallops under a squirt of freshly squeezed lemon. (Vic Harradine)

Italy

Casa Girelli ‘Canaletto’ Primitivo 2006
IGT Puglia $11.95 (94565) 13.5% alcohol
A famous baroque painter, Giovanni Canal—ironically born in Venice—was known as ‘Caneletto’ – the little Canal (in deference to his dad, also a famous painter). One of his paintings is on the label. Roasted herb, dark berry fruit and whiffs of oak on the nose, this fills the palate with rich flavours of tarry cherry and sweet dark brambly berry fruit intermingling with spice and black plum. It finishes lengthy and involved. Amazing it’s under $12.00—it earned its final half star on value. It’s a go-to wine for summer backyard get-togethers, especially when on your credit card. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand

Stoneleigh Pinot Noir Rosé 2008
Marlborough, South Island $16.95 (122275) 12.5% alcohol
A step up in quality and price from many Rosés, this delivers a solid and focused stream of flavour with tangy pie cherry, ripe cranberry and spicy zesty red grapefruit tang. It’s light to medium bodied, well balanced, generously textured and sports a crisp mouth-watering finish. Perfect for summer quaffing, serve chilled as you would a white wine, this also pairs well with Caesar salad, smoked salmon and antipasto. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario

Cave Spring Cellars Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (417642) 12.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of earth, spice box and fennel waft from the glass of this well-structured Pinot. Look for tart flavours of Montmorency cherry and cranberry mingling with ripe Bing cherry, black currant and hints of beetroot—great balance of flavours. There are supple tannins and seamlessly integrated oak—aged 8 months in French oak barrels, 25% new. It finishes tangy and spicy. It’ll drink well over the next 3 years; pick up a few as this ’07 vintage is special. (Vic Harradine)


Cave Spring Cellars Riesling 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.25 (234583) 11% alcohol
Orange blossom, mineral and citrus on the nose, this delivers a delectable mouthful of sweet and tang that’ll keep you coming back for more. It’s off-dry with flavours of pink grapefruit and lemon that are juxtaposed with ripe pineapple and Golden Delicious apple. It’s medium bodied with a well-balanced finish. You’ll enjoy this sipped on its own and equally well with spicy Asian dishes. The quality-price ratio is certainly in your favour. (Vic Harradine)


Henry of Pelham ‘Sibling Rivalry’ Red 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (126151) 13.5% alcohol
This drinks like you paid much more than asked—very good value. It delivers a spicy smoky nose announcing a delicious tangy mouthful of fruit flavour—sweet mulberry, pie cherry and hints of currant. It takes the best from each grape in the blend—Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon—delivering a well-balanced wine that’s underpinned by firm tannin structure and blessed with a lingering spicy black plum finish. Give it a go with brats or burgers. (Vic Harradine)


Henry of Pelham ‘Sibling Rivalry’ White 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (126144) 12% alcohol
The lifted and involved nose is chock full of delightful aromas—tropical fruit, mixed spice and sweet ripe pear. The flavours wash over the palate in waves with ripe yellow peach and nectarine, spiced honeyed apple and moderating citrus zest galore. There’s enough spice, sweet and tang for a perfect summer sipper and the versatility to pair well with spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)


Reif Estate Winery ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay 2006
VQA Niagara River $16.95 (252163) 13.5% alcohol
Tantalizing aromas of vanilla, toasty oak and toffee rip from this well-balanced expressive wine—it’s a top drop and worth the price. You’ll also find a cornucopia of fruit flavours on the palate —pineapple, yellow plum, apple and citrus—with the solid finish layering on hints of spice and peach. It sports a nice texture and pairs well with take-away supermarket rotisserie chicken. (Vic Harradine)


Reif Estate Winery Cabernet Merlot 2007
VQA Niagara River $13.95 (565713) 12.5% alcohol
This is round and ready to go delivering aromas and flavours of dark berry fruit, red cherry/cranberry tang and spiced black Damson plum. It’s well balanced with just a wisp of oak—6 months in seasoned barrels—adding structure and interest. This red blend—40% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc—delivers solid value. Pour alongside grilled red meat or roast beef with root veggies. (Vic Harradine)

Quebec

Domaine Pinnacle ‘Ice Cider’ 2006
Quebec $29.95 (94094) 12% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent – this has won over 40 International Gold medals!) Made from hand-harvested partially frozen apples—six different varieties—this delivers a delicious mouthful of nectar-like wine. The abundant aromas include honeyed baked apple, peach cobbler with gentle hints of cinnamon and maple syrup. The flavours are expressive and lip-smacking good with apple compote, caramel / toffee-dipped Hallowe’en apples and crème brûlée predominant. This is full flavoured and generously textured with a lengthy unctuous finish that shows very good balance. Drink on its own as dessert or pair with a fruit flan. This offers good value and is attractively packaged for gifting. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

 

Calamus Estate Winery Cabernet Franc 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.00 12.9% alcohol
This opens with aromas of mint, dark berry fruit and savoury spice leading to a racy mouthful of flavour—sour cherry and exotic Asian spice. This is medium bodied with a firm tannin structure. The finish layers on some delightful ripe berry tones. Aerate / decant for two hours then pour with rare to medium-rare grilled red meat. Two more years of age will boost this up the star ladder. (Vic Harradine)


Calamus Estate Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $23.00 12.6% alcohol
The quiet nose offers berry fruit and tobacco aromas while the palate’s treated to a fresh and lively stream of red berry fruit flavour underpinned by a racy spine of acidity. Everything’s wrapped in a firm tannin structure at present—18 months in French oak barrels, but there’s enough fruit to predict this softening up to provide good drinking after 2010; be patient. (Vic Harradine)


Calamus Estate Winery ‘Barrel Aged’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.00 12.6% alcohol
Alluring aromas of lemon-lime sherbet and floral nuances drift from the nose of this medium-bodied silky-smooth, almost creamy, wine. It’s from a very good vintage and the ultra-ripe flavours showcase it—caramel apple, sweet succulent pear and ripe citrussy acidity—while the 18 months in French oak has been well integrated. It finishes nicely balanced with solid fruit flavours and mouth-watering tang. Pour it alongside prawns, pan-seared in butter and garlic. Purchase by the mixed case of six, with daily home or office delivery, from Calamus. (Vic Harradine)


Calamus Estate Winery Pinot Gris 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.50 12.2% alcohol
(Previously, and mistakenly, reviewed as a 2007 in winecurrent) A plethora of lifted aromas jump from the glass of this full-bodied, generously textured silver medal winner at the All Canadian Wine Championship. Exotic Asian spice, honeydew melon and honeyed pear aromas provide segue to sweet fruit flavours exploding on the palate—Mirabelle plum, poached pear and lemon drop candy among them. It finishes sweet and spicy with a bit of spritz. Purchase by the mixed case of six, with daily home or office delivery, from Calamus. (Vic Harradine)


Colio Estate Wines ‘CEV Lily’ Pinot Noir Sparkling 2007
VQA Ontario $16.35 11.5% alcohol
This is a pleasing and colourful—almost ruby red—sparkling wine that delivers delightful mouthfuls of bubbles and fun. There’s a load of flavour in the fizz—strawberry, raspberry and candy floss. It finishes dry with a clean and refreshing crispness. Serve as an aperitif or pair with chicken or veal appetizers. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery from Colio or pick up a bottle from one of their 14 Ontario retail stores. (Vic Harradine)


Colio Estate Wines ‘CEV Reserve’ Riesling 2007
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $15.35 11.5% alcohol
Tantalizing green apple, mineral and honeyed pear aromas waft from this medium-bodied very generously textured gem. There’s an explosion of flavours on the palate with tropical fruit, lemon-lime sherbet and sweet succulent yellow peach among them. The finish turns crisp and refreshing with a lovely surge of ripe citrussy tang. This is well focused and deftly balanced making it a willing partner with spicy Asian cuisine like pad Thai and green curry chicken. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery from Colio or pick up a bottle from one of their 14 Ontario retail stores. (Vic Harradine)


Coyote’s Run Pinot Blanc 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.00 13% alcohol
Only 270 cases produced, less remain. There’s a roomful of spice and floral aromas as it gets in gear to treat the palate to a lip-smacking array of tang and flavour with nectarine, mango, sweet pear and moderating citrus acidity to the fore. It’s slightly off-dry, medium bodied and silky smooth. The finish delivers that sweet and tang that pairs so well with friends on the deck during the day and with spicy Asian cuisine during the evening meal. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Coyote’s Run or Winery to Home. (Vic Harradine)


Coyote’s Run ‘Red Paw Vineyard’ Pinot Gris 2008
VQA Four Mile Creek $18.00 13% alcohol
From a very limited production, less than 300 cases remain; you’ll need to be quick off the mark to snag some. Spice box, mineral and floral on the nose, this provides a delicious imbibing experience with mouth-filling flavours of succulent peach, pear and honeyed apple. It’s light to medium bodied, nicely textured and delivers a crisp bone-dry finish of ripe citrussy tang. Give this a go with a creamy cheese like brie. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Coyote’s Run or Winery to Home. (Vic Harradine)


Coyote’s Run ‘Red Paw Vineyard’ Syrah 2007
VQA Four Mile Creek $24.00 12.5%% alcohol
This is aptly named ‘Syrah’ rather than ‘Shiraz’ as it has the structure and elegance Syrah from the northern Rhône often displays. Look for a lifted nose of toasty notes, black pepper and mixed spice. The flavours wash over the palate and provide a steady stream through the well-balanced lengthy finish—ripe mulberry, red cherry and spiced black plum. The oak treatment—14 months in French and American barrels—has been deftly integrated and the ripe supple tannin adds underpinning and structure. Pair with grilled lamb tenderloins rubbed with garlic butter. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Coyote’s Run or Winery to Home. (Vic Harradine)


Lailey Vineyard ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.00 13% alcohol
There’s a sense of purpose and purity of flavour displayed in this wine—it’s the level to which well-made Chardonnay, without the usual adornment of oak ageing, can aspire. There’s a lovely array of aromas and flavours including crisp green apple, sweet ripe pear, tropical fruit and crisp lemony tang. The texture is satiny smooth and the finish lingering, clean and refreshing. Pour this alongside lightly breaded and skillet-seared calamari under a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)


Lailey Vineyard ‘Canadian Oak’ Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Niagara River $35.00 13% alcohol
Aged in Canadian white oak, this Pinot is complex and compelling with a subtle nose of earthiness, floral and fennel notes. The stream of fruit-driven flavour includes fresh red cherry, tangy cranberry and strawberry—there’s a ton of fruit without being jammy. It’s quite nicely textured and sports a clean refreshing finish redolent of cherry clafoutie. This really shines in the light of the dinner table; for a treat, pour it alongside coq au vin. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers!

Vic

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desperate
	Represents a half star
	We both agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar