Winecurrent

May 23, 2009 Vintages Release

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature on red wines from New Zealand followed by a listing of some of the popular ‘Vintages Essentials Collection’ wines. The familiar country/region format follows in the 'Main Release' with wines reviewed in the order they appear in the Vintages Release brochure.

Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
  • Sixty plus wines reviewed in various categories after the Vintages Release wines.
  • Well over a dozen Ontario wines reviewed in the ‘New in Ontario Wineries’ section, many from the dazzling ’07 vintage.
  • A ‘Consignment Wines’ section with myriad good-value high-quality wines.
  • Finding Waldo —well over a dozen wines with excellent price-quality ratios earning at least 4 stars costing less than $15.
An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

New Zealand Red Wine Feature—Pinot Noir and other reds

****1/2 drink or cellar
Carrick Pinot Noir 2006
Central Otago, South Island $39.95 (919837) 14% alcohol
Definitely the pick of this Pinot litter, it’s rich, complex and just the ticket for pouring alongside smoked duck breast. There are floral and gamey aromas off the nose while the flavours are an amalgam of sweet juicy boysenberry, cassis and bitter sweet chocolate. It’s deftly balanced, nicely textured and sports a lingering fruit forward finish. The price would be doubled with a Burgundy appellation—this is good value. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Oyster Bay Pinot Noir 2007
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (590414) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas and flavours abound in this medium-bodied, generously textured Pinot with freshly picked strawberry, sweet cranberry and spiced red cherry predominant. The supple tannin structure and spine of acidity keep it refreshing and far from jammy. Rock solid and priced fairly, this ‘Wine of the Month’ offers a lovely wine for sipping or pouring alongside coq au vin, roasted chicken or turkey. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Palliser Estate Pinot Noir 2006
Martinborough, North Island $28.95 (120766) 14.4% alcohol
This is all fresh red fruit on the nose with aromas of cherry, raspberry and strawberry competing for attention. The mid-palate is divine with all manner of flavours—ripe cranberry, red currant and sliced strawberry. Medium bodied and very smoothly textured, it turns ultra dry on the finish with ladles of zingy tang. Pair this with cuisine that offers a tomato-based sauce like veal parmigiano. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Ngatarawa ‘Stables’ Merlot 2007
Hawkes Bay, North Island $19.95 (120832) 13% alcohol
Straightforward and uncomplicated, this blend—87% Merlot, 8% Malbec, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon—delivers a pleasant nose of spiced Damson plum and hints of roses. It’s light on its feet and nicely textured with bright and fresh red fruit flavours—predominantly cherry and strawberry with nuances of blood orange. The finish is dry, slightly herbaceous and nicely balanced. (VH)

Vintages Essentials Collection—product available on a consistent basis in selected LCBO stores. They also deliver quality and value consistently.

****1/2 drink now
Cave Spring Cellars 'Estate' Riesling 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment $17.95 (286377)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) The '07 vintage has produced exciting wines and here's one of them. It has it all, aromas of mineral, citrus and spice that introduce a full-bodied and fully textured glorious burst of flavours—Granny Smith apple and oodles of citrussy zest and raciness. It's dry, impeccably balanced and lip-smacking good. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Marlborough $18.95 (316570)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Pungent and herbaceous aromas of nettles and passion fruit leap from the glass. The expressive flavours are an explosion of spice-infused citrus, pineapple and sweet melon. This is well balanced, silky smooth on the palate, and sports a generous level of alcohol—up to 13% from the 11% in 2007. The dry, clean lip-smacking finish lingers luxuriously. This is excellent value. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ravenswood ‘Vintners Blend’ Zinfandel 2006
California $17.95 (359257) 13.5% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) If it’s been a couple of years since you’ve tasted this wine, you’ll be happy to re-discover it. Strawberry pie and jam aromas leap out of the glass with cinnamon spice and a healthy dose of vanilla and milk chocolate. On the palate it’s juicy before persistent, lingering tannin provides plenty of structure. This is medium in body, not nearly as heavy as some Californian Zinfandels, which will make it more versatile at your table. Grilled lamb burgers would be great. (MT)

**** drink now
Bodegas Catena Zapata Malbec 2006
Agrelo, Mendoza, Argentina $19.95 (478727)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This lovely red solidifies Malbec’s claim to being the signature grape of Argentina. Coffee, herbaceous savoury notes and solid dark berry fruit aromas segue rich, concentrated and layered flavours of black currant, Bing cherry and spiced German prune plum. It’s medium bodied, fully flavoured and nicely textured while the finish adds another dimension with a solid stream of moderating tang. Lovely to sip on its own, it has the oomph and structure to pair with grilled spicy back ribs. (VH)

The Main Release

Sparkling Wine

****1/2 drink now
Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Brut
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (0616441) 12% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) The Cuvée Catharine Brut is officially one of my favourite sparklings. A bargain at under $30, I would dare anyone to pick it out of a line-up of Champagnes. With an exquisite nose of floral, brioche, sweet grapefruit, pear, apple and apricot aromas, it’s dry and light to medium bodied on the palate with bracing acidity, 12% alcohol and a fine, persistent mousse. (LG)

Canada: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Hidden Bench Estate Chardonnay 2006
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (068817) 13% alcohol
My first tasting from this winery and it’s impressive. Vanilla and toasty oak aromas drift from the glass of this medium- to full-bodied Chard. There’s a complex and rich array of flavours on the palate—Granny Smith apple, white peach and yellow plum underpinned by zesty white grapefruit tang. Impeccable balance, seamless integrated oak and a lengthy lip-smacking finish provide a delightful imbibing experience. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Malivoire Pinot Gris 2008
VQA Niagara Escarpment $18.95 (591305) 12.5% alcohol
This flavourful and aroma-laden organic Gris delivers very good value. The perfumed nose offers up spice, lychee and Muscat-like aromas while the palate is drenched with flavours of ripe yellow peach, succulent apricot and an explosion of lemony citrus. Medium bodied and generously textured, it finishes dry, refreshing and mouth-watering delicious. Pair with pan-seared scallops over arugula lightly sprinkled with verjus. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Megalomaniac ‘Narcissist’ Riesling 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (067587) 10.9% alcohol
From the spectacular ’07 vintage, this VQA ‘Wine of the Month’ packs quite a punch. It begins with pungent aromas of citrus, mineral and exotic spice. The palate is treated to waves of complex, ripe tree fruit flavour—white peach, spiced yellow plum and orange / lemon peel marmalade. Medium bodied, well balanced and smooth as satin, this finishes lip-smacking good with a rush of white grapefruit tang ameliorated by sweet ripe nectarine. Good value here, pick up a few. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Quails’ Gate Chardonnay 2006
VQA Okanagan Valley $19.95 (377770) 14% alcohol
An interesting nose of green apple, mineral notes and fennel introduce this medium-bodied very generously textured gem—we see far too few from B.C.—reach with both hands for this one, it’s gorgeous. Aromas and warm flavours of citrus, peach, honeydew melon and spice abound. It’s complex, deftly balanced, well structured and finishes dry and lengthy. Lovely sipped on its own, it pairs well with pan-seared firm fish like Tuna. (VH)

U.S.A.: White Wine

**** drink now
Arrowood Chardonnay 2005
Sonoma County $34.95 (270694) 14.2% alcohol
Aromas and flavours of honeyed fruit abound —predominantly apple and pear—ably supported by citrus and pineapple tang. This is medium to full bodied and silky textured with a lingering, refreshing and well-balanced finish. This has the character and richness to be the perfect dance partner with steamed lobster dipped in clarified butter. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Cuvaison Chardonnay 2007
Carneros, Napa Valley $25.95 (988261) 14.5% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Here’s an attractive Chardonnay from one of the cooler climate regions of California. This wine has a predominant nose of smoked oyster with layers of tropical fruit. It’s clean and crisp on the palate with a medium body, good acidity for balance and flavours of apple and pineapple. Try this wine with grilled Cornish hen. (DI)

****1/2 drink now
Greg Norman ‘California Estates’ Chardonnay 2005
Santa Barbara County $19.95 (029264) 13.5% alcohol
This earned its final half star on the value it offers. Complex aromas rip from the glass—tropical fruit, edgy citrus and notes of minerality. The crisp flavours include green apple, pear and tangy lemon zest. Clean and refreshing, it exhibits pure Chardonnay flavour having not undergone malolactic fermentation or having touched any oak. (VH)

U.S.A.: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Cuvaison Pinot Noir 2006
Carneros, Napa Valley $42.95 (714519) 14.5% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This wine hits you right away with a big nose of cherry and spice with an added touch of dry leaves and barnyard. It’s a bit more reserved on the palate with red jammy flavours supported by a medium body, medium acidity, and medium tannin. You could put this in the cellar for a year or two, but why not pull it out this fall and have it with your Thanksgiving turkey. (DI)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Gnarly Head Merlot 2005
California $17.95 (104158) 14.5% alcohol
Toasty notes and smoke and oak aromas mingle with vanilla—aged 6 months in French and American oak—on the nose of this medium- to full-bodied crowd-pleasing red. There are gobs of sweet dark fruit flavours with plum, cherry and brambly berry amongst them. This is full bodied and rich with a fruit-forward finish layering on mint and dark chocolate. Not for sissies, this demands hearty cuisine; pair with smoked and grilled backed ribs slathered in spicy tomato-based barbeque sauce. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Guenoc Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Lake County $23.95 (104240) 14% alcohol
The subdued and quiet nose offers aromas of dark, juicy Bing cherry—the kind just now arriving in stores—and mixed spice box. It gets into high gear with a glorious array of dark fruit flavours including mulberry and black currant supported by lashings of sweet cassis and a wave of dark chocolate. It’s simply delicious. Medium bodied, silky smooth with a lingering finish that adds a touch of minty cherry, this deserves your attention. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Liberty School Syrah 2005
California $16.95 (942383)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Very soft and approachable, everything's in synch with no rough edges. Black cherry and ripe currant flavours are balanced off nicely with a squirt of moderating acidity and supported by ripe fine-grained tannins for structure. The lengthy finish is also well balanced and adds on a layer of spice and smoky nuances. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Shafer Vineyards Merlot 2006
Napa Valley $72.95 (346262) 14.9% alcohol
For collectors, connoisseurs and recession-proof wine lovers, here is a taste treat. Perfumed aromas of black licorice, leafy spice and herb and bramble berry provide segue to this full-bodied, muscular and powerful, beautifully balanced Merlot. Rich complex flavours arrive in waves—bitter sweet chocolate, juicy black cherry and black plum to the fore. The finish is lingering and luxurious. It’s drinking well now to 2015. (VH)

Argentina: Red Wine

**** drink now
Chalten ‘Gran Seleccion’ Malbec 2007
Neuquén, Patagonia $18.95 (114215) 14.5% alcohol
Inky dark and brooding in the glass, this provides a huge aromatic nose of spiced dark berry fruit, some earthiness and a touch of vanilla. Concentrated, complex and rich, the palate is laced with juicy succulent flavours of black currant, kirsch liqueur and tarry cherries. It’s medium bodied with a generous texture and dollops of vanilla and warm cassis on the finish. Pour alongside grilled and garlicked lamb chops. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Mendel Malbec 2007
Mendoza $31.95 (108225) 13.9% alcohol
Getting past the sticker shock is the only challenge with this Malbec as it’s seriously delicious and worth every penny. Expressive aromas and persistent flavours abound in this well-structured deftly balanced red—blackberry, wood smoke, espresso roast and juicy succulent black raspberry. It’s medium bodied with a solid tannin underpinning. The finish lingers and layers on a hint of minerality. Drink now to 2014 with grilled strip loin steak. (VH)

Chile: White Wine

**** drink now
Conchy Y Toro ‘Marques de Casa Concha’ Chardonnay 2007
Pirque, Maipo Valley $17.95 (342857) 14% alcohol
These folks just don’t miss when it comes to making good quality value-driven wine. You’ll find toasty and vanilla notes on the nose from the 9 months ageing in French oak, but imperceptible and perfectly integrated on the palate. There are plenty of green apple and Bosc pear flavours that are balanced perfectly by tangy pineapple and lemon zing. It’s medium to full bodied, very generously textured and sports a long well-balanced finish. (VH)

Chile: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
G7 ‘Reserva’ Carmenère 2006
Loncomilla Valley $14.95 (094177) 13.5% alcohol
Aromatic, rich and chockfull of flavour, this delicatetly balanced, nicely textured red punches well above the price. Spice and licorice on the nose, the succulent flavours are all about ripe mulberry and tangy red cherry. It’s medium-bodied and sports a lengthy finish with ripe supple tannin. This is a terrific buy, pick up an armful early Saturday morning before the word gets out. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
William Cole ‘Columbine Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Curicó Valley $15.95 (093856) 13.5% alcohol
Deserving of a multiple purchase, this packs a boatload of fruity aromas and flavours including aromatic bitters, balsamic, tangy pie cherry and spicy boysenberry. It has a firm tannin frame and delivers a riveting spray of tang and zest. The lengthy finish accentuates the many rich dark fruit flavours with hints of mocha and black licorice. Versatile at the table, pair with grilled red meat, pizza or hearty stews. (VH)

Australia: White Wine

****1/2 drink now
Evans and Tate Chardonnay 2006
Margaret River, Australia $19.95 (677765)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This is from a lengthy cool vintage that was tough on reds, but magic for quality whites. The expansive nose offers up smoky, nutty, vanilla and tropical fruit aromas. Most of those aromas are from the seamlessly integrated oak regimen—1/2 new French and the other half in one-year-old barrels. There’s a pronounced and persistent attack of rich tropical fruit with sweet pineapple and ripe melon to the fore. There’s also deft balance that’s supplied by a focused citrus tang. It’s medium weight, generously textured and sports a lingering finish. Give this a go with roast turkey or chicken, savoury dressing and all the fixings. (VH)

Australia: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Ferngrove Shiraz 2007
Frankland River, Western Australia $16.95 (090282) 14.5% alcohol
Mellow, round and very approachable, you’ll find perfumed aromas of roasted herb, spice and plum on the lifted nose. Damson plum, ripe black Bing cherry and cassis flavours all make an appearance on the medium-bodied nicely textured palate. There’s a fruit bowl of berry fruit flavours and a generous dollop of tang on the lingering finish. Drink now to 2014 with rack of lamb. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Hazyblur ‘Baroota’ Shiraz 2005
South Australia $35.95 (052126) 14.7% alcohol
Fleshy and jammy with a bucket load of sweet fruit flavours, you’ll enjoy the complexity in the nose—toasty oak, brambly berry, exotic spice and raisined fruit. A crowd pleaser to be certain, the flavours drench the palate with raspberry jam, plum compote and kirsch liqueur. Medium in texture and body, the sweet fruit flavours carry through the finish. Spicy back ribs, hot off the barbie, pair well. (VH).

****1/2 drink or cellar
Two Hands ‘Angels Share’ Shiraz 2007
McLaren Vale, South Australia $27.95 (009480) 15.5% alcohol
The inky black liquid in the glass is a portend of the gargantuan experience to follow. This is not a wimpy wine; it’s full bodied, heavily textured and brimming with flavour. The hedonistic warm flavours that drench the palate include boysenberry, cassis, pomegranate and pie cherry. Not just a fruit bomb, it has good complexity, a firm tannin structure and a spine of balancing acidity. Drink now, after a three-hour aeration/decant, and on to 2015. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Two Hands ‘Gnarly Dudes’ Shiraz 2007
Barossa Valley, South Australia $27.95 (660043) 14.3% alcohol
This is a ripper—a treasure trove of aroma and flavour with aromatic mixed spice—cinnamon and clove—and fruit-forward flavours of black currant, black raspberry and blueberry. There’s a river of lip-smacking tang and a firm tannin underpinning for structure. The well-balanced finish hangs on for thirty or more seconds. You wouldn’t go wrong pairing this with slow-roasted crispy-skin pork belly. (VH)

New Zealand: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Kim Crawford ‘SP Boyszone’ Pinot Gris 2007
Marlborough, South Island $24.95 (036954) 13% alcohol
The doyen of Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc tries his hand with this spicy Pinot Gris. SP stands for ‘Small Parcels’ of unique hand-crafted fruit. There’s a quiet nose of pit fruit and rosewater—small amounts of Gewürztraminer and Riesling blended—and a lovely expression of fresh fruit flavour on the palate with honeydew melon, lemony citrus and spiced yellow plum. Light on its feet, it has good acidity and balance, finishing crisp and clean. (VH)

**** drink now
Kim Crawford ‘SP The Mistress’ Riesling 2005
Waipara, South Island $24.95 (090134) 13.5% alcohol
The ‘SP’ series features their flagship wines. The yellow gold colour first gets your attention, but it’s the silky texture and delicious flavour that holds it. You’ll find a gusher of honeyed fruit flavour—apple and pear—along with a lovely spine of lemon tang. This is satiny smooth and finishes with a lovely stream of refreshing flavour—ripe pineapple and grapefruit to the fore. Give it a go with a mess of steamed mussels Provençal. (VH)

**** drink now
Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Marlborough, South Island $14.95 (686675) 13% alcohol
Tell-tale Marlborough SB aromas of gooseberry, nettles and grassy notes blast from the glass of this medium-bodied good-value white. The sharp and zesty flavours of gooseberry, citrus and edgy herbaceous notes are persistent throughout the clean and refreshing lip-smacking finish. Pick up a slew for summer quaffing and for versatile food pairing with smoked salmon and cream cheese on a bagel, Caesar salad, sushi or spicy vegetarian. (VH)

South Africa: White Wine

**** drink now
Mulderbosch Chardonnay 2005
WO Stellenbosch $20.95 (717090) 13% alcohol
Toasty oak and vanilla aromas roll off the nose, dissolving on the palate, fully integrated. There’s a cornucopia of flavours including green apple, tropical fruit, ripe sweet pear and lemon-lime citrus. It’s quite well balanced, generously textured and delivers a lingering refreshing finish that adds some nutty nuances. Lovely sipped on its own, it has the stuffing to pair with stuffing, along with roast chicken, of course. (VH)

France: White Wine

Alsace

****1/2 drink now
André Blanck ‘Rosenbourg’ Pinot Blanc 2007
AOC Alsace $15.95 (626606) 12.5% alcohol
From a splendid winery, this doesn’t disappoint. The aromas fill the room with quince jelly, ripe apple compote and spice-laden peach and apricot. Following through on the palate you’ll find the spice, apple and peach flavours augmented by a glorious gusher of balancing pink grapefruit tang. It finishes dry, refreshing and mouth-watering delectable. It picked up its final half star on value—you pick up an armful for summer enjoyment. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Pierre Sparr ‘Réserve’ Gewürztraminer 2007
AOC Alsace $18.95 (747600) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of lightly spiced rosewater and apple provide segue to pear, peach and apricot flavours with a generous sprig of spice. This is light on its feet and refreshing. It’s nicely balanced and textured sporting a clean dry finish of spice-laden orange peel marmalade. This is paired perfectly with spicy Asian cuisine like Pad Thai or shaking beef. (VH)

France: Red Wine

Bordeaux

***1/2 cellar
Château l’Argenteyre 2005
AOC Médoc $24.95 (117655) 13.5% alcohol
This deserves a look and a lengthy rest in your cellar. It’s tight and taut now with red cherry and blueberry aromas and a serious tannic frame. The flavours lurk beneath that tannin—spice, cherry and plum—and should blossom with patience. Drink 2011 to 2017 alongside a juicy medium-rare grilled steak. (VH)

*** drink or cellar
Château Le Caillou 1998
AOC Pomerol $48.95 (045682) 12.5% alcohol
An alluring nose of Christmas cake spice, exotic insence and dried raisiny fruit gives way to a funky set of flavours including smoky oak, tar, licorice, dark cherry and a thread of earthy ‘goût de terroir’, possibly Brettanomyces. The tannins are still grainy and perceptible—aerate / decant for three or four hours and pour with a slab of venison steak, done rare. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Château Verdignan 1999
AOC Haut-Médoc $29.95 (125286)
Classified ‘Cru Bourgeois Superieur’, this Left Bank red blend is predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon. The shy nose offers aromas of plum and spice while the palate is treated to persistent and well-balanced flavours that include black currant and kirsch liqueur. Supple tannin and moderating acidity provide a solid frame for the lingering fruity finish. Providing good value, it’s also a rare opportunity to taste a decade-old Bordeaux for under thirty dollars. (VH)

Burgundy

***1/2 drink or cellar
Vincent Girardin ‘Les Vergelesses’ Savigny-Les-Beaunes 1er Cru 2006
AOC Savigny-Les-Beaunes $44.95 (110353) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of toast, spice and field berry roll off the glass of this medium-bodied red. It’s tightly focussed on the palate with cranberry, pomegranate and sour cherry zest and tang predominant. There’s a perceptible tannin underpinning while it finishes with warm sweet black currant flavours. Aerate / decant for a few hours then serve alongside coq au vin. This provides optimum drinking now to 2012. (VH)

France: Rosé

***1/2 drink now
Mas Belles Eaux Rosé 2008
Vin de Pays d’Oc $14.95 (117358) 12.5% alcohol
Just in time for summertime sipping, this delivers a perfumed nose of freshly sliced strawberry along with a handful of mixed spice. It’s light in the mouth with excellent balance and a pleasing wave of ripe sweet strawberry and tangy pink grapefruit flavours. It finishes dry, crisp and refreshing. Lovely sipped on its own--chill as you would a white—or pour with a mixed deli plate. (VH)

Italy: White Wine

Alto Adige

****1/2 drink now
Cantina Tramin Gewürztraminer 2007
DOC Süditrol-Alto Adige $19.95 (117028) 13.5% alcohol
The highly aromatic nose delivers a roomful of rosewater, lychee and exotic mixed spice. Flavour laden and lip-smacking delicious, look for delightful flavours of apricot, ripe pear and a scintillating gusher of ripe peach and nectarine. It’s full bodied, generously textured and leaves an off-dry impression on the finish. Pair with spicy Asian cuisine or a fresh fruit salad. (VH)

Italy: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Di Majo Norante Ramitello 2005
DOC Biferno Rosso $22.95 (973214) 13.5% alcohol
A lovely blend—80% Prugnelo (Sangiovese) and 20% Aglianaco—that’s rich, robust and rustic. There’s a lifted nose of dark cherry, balsamic, tar and black licorice and an explosion of fruit flavour on the palate—black currant, black plum and Bing cherry, along with nuances of toast and espresso roast. It’s well balanced, nicely textured and finishes lengthy with good fruit flavour. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Marco Bonfante Barbaresco 2004
DOCG Piemonte $39.95 (117119) 14.5% alcohol
This is a lovely expression of the Nebbiolo grape that’s complex, rich and well crafted. Aromas of lilac, earthiness and small dark berry fruit open this medium- to full-bodied, nicely textured red. The flavours include ripe mulberry, Bing cherry and hints of fennel and roasted herbs. It finishes balanced and lengthy with good acidity and a firm tannin structure. Aerate / decant for three hours and serve with osso bucco. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Renato Ratti Torriglione Barbera d’Alba 2007
DOC Piemonte $19.95 (047266) 14% alcohol
Barbera and Sangiovese are Italy’s two most planted red wine grapes and this Barbera is true to its breeding—low tannin with a good spine of acidity. This is also plush and mellow with a lovely mouth feel. There’s an abundance of sweet ripe fruit—dark cherry and black plum—along with hints of mocha and a generous dollop of spicy tang. It’s medium bodied and sports a medium-length finish laced with Montmorency cherry and nuances of dark rich spice cake. This is worthy of a multiple purchase. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Masi ‘Brolo di Campofiorin’ 2005
IGT Rosso del Veronese $24.95 (976092) 14% alcohol
One of the most-trusted names in Italian wines, Masi seldom, if ever misses the mark. ‘Brolo’ translates to a walled single vineyard where this red blend—80% Corvina, 20% Rondinella—sourced its grapes. It’s rich and elegant beginning with a lifted nose of mixed field berry, toasted oak and hints of plum. Dark succulent flavours of black currant and cassis mingle effortlessly with bitter sweet chocolate, savoury spice and supple tannin. It’s silky smooth, medium bodied with a balanced lingering finish. Drink now to 2016. The quality-price balance is tipped well in your favour. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Monte Zovo Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso 2006
DOC Valpolicella Superiore $19.95 (023523) 14.5% alcohol
This red blend—Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara—is rich and concentrated with expressive aromas and flavours of crushed, dried berry fruit, ripe dark cherry and toasty notes. It’s medium bodied and very generously textured with a lengthy fruit-forward finish. It’s ready to drink now, either on its own or poured alongside a rich lamb or beef daube. (VH)

Portugal: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Casa Santos Lima Sousão 2006
Vinho Regional Estremadura $21.95 (107177) 14% alcohol
Sousão is one of the myriad indigenous grapes used in the blending of Port (who knew?) with more plantings in California and South Africa than its ancestral home in northern Portugal. Concentrated and complex aromas and flavours abound in this dark-coloured dry full-bodied gem. Look for dark berry fruit, black currant, dark raisin and distinctive hits of espresso roast and nuttiness right through the balanced finish. Give this a go with a thick juicy slab of beefsteak. (VH)

Spain: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Barón de Ley ‘Reserva’ 2004
DOCa Rioja $21.95 (958868) 13.5% alcohol
Smoke, oak and vanilla drift from the glass of this well-structured red while the flavours glide over the palate on a bed of silky smooth texture and ripe supple tannin—boysenberry, pie cherry, black currant and leather. It’s medium to full bodied and deftly balanced with a finish redolent of spiced currant cake with a balancing dollop of tang. Drink now to 2012 with rack of lamb. (VH)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: June 20, 2009

***1/2 drink now
Hunyady Kékfrankos 2006
Kéthely, Hungary $16.95 (108498) 12.5% alcohol
Highly perfumed—spice redolent of expensive cologne, dark berry fruit and gamey notes—this delivers quite a mouthful of tangy zesty flavour—cassis, pie cherry and yet more spice to the fore. It’s light bodied with a firm tannic structure—aged 12 months in new Hungarian oak—and a dry sour cherry finish. Hungarian csirke paprikás (chicken paprikash) provides a geographical pairing that also works perfectly on the palate. (VH)

**** drink now
Poole’s Rock Wines ‘Cockfighter’s Ghost’ Verdelho 2008
Hunter Valley, Australia $18.95 (90985) 13% alcohol
Pale yellow with hints of green, this unheralded varietal offers excellent value punching above its price point. The pleasant nose offers floral and citrus notes while the palate is treated to a cornucopia of fresh fruit flavours with green apple, sweet yellow peach and a salad bowl of tropical fruit. It’s medium bodied, generously textured and finishes well balanced and lengthy in a blaze of clean refreshing citrus tang and sweet pit fruit. Versatile at the table, pair it with sea food or spicy Asian cuisine. (VH)

Vintages Release: July 18, 2009

****1/2 drink or cellar
Santa Carolina ‘Barrica Selection’ Chardonnay 2007
DO Valle de Casablanca, Chile (928580) $14.95 14.5% alcohol
Vanilla and tropical fruit aromas rip from the expressive nose of this medium-bodied, generously textured gem. The delicious stream of ripe fruit flavour includes sweet pineapple, melon and yellow peach followed by a lip-smacking wave of citrussy notes keeping it all in good balance. The eight months in French oak has been seamlessly integrated—adding complexity, but otherwise imperceptible. Grilled or roast chicken pairs perfectly. Pick up a few; there’s excellent value offered here. (VH)

Vintages Release: August 15, 2009

**** drink now
Viña Tabalí ‘Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Limari Valley $14.95 (58446) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of cherry, mulberry, black plum and toasty oak—12 months in French and American—roll from this earthy, rich red. There’s a gusher of expressive dark chalky fruit flavour with bramble berry and bergamot orange to the fore along with tar and aromatic bitters. It delivers a medium-bodied frame from approachable tannin, a generous texture and an extremely well-balanced finish. This offers good value and pairs well with marinated and grilled flank steak. (VH)

Vintages Release: August 29, 2009

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ironstone ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Sierra Foothills, California $34.95 14.5% alcohol
Well structured, the addition of 15% Merlot has certainly mellowed out the fruit flavour. This is loaded with succulent ripe dark fruit—black currant, black plum and brambly berry—along with hints of toasty oak (24 months in French and American), mint and vanilla. It’s full-bodied, fully textured and offers a perceptible tannic frame with a deftly balanced lengthy warm finish. Drink now to 2014 alongside marinated flank steak, grilled medium rare. (VH)

Vintages Release: Fall 2009

***** drink or cellar
Francis Ford Coppola ‘Diamond Collection Blue Label’ Merlot 2007
California $27.95 13.8% alcohol
From a fabulous vintage, this is a stunning Merlot with blended amounts of Petite Sirah (9%) and Syrah (5%). Aromas of dark juicy cherry, mixed spice and ripe black plum provide segue to waves of rich and succulent flavours—Bing cherry, dark chocolate, plum compote and nuances of vanilla. It’s medium bodied, silky smooth and framed beautifully by a firm tannin structure, 16 months of seamlessly integrated French oak and an agreeable stream of balancing acidity. The finish is lengthy and luxurious. Drink now to 2014, happily on its own or paired with grilled lamb. (VH)

New in the LCBO

Argentina

***1/2 drink now
Familia Zuccardi ‘Fuzion’ Syrah Rosé 2008
Mendoza $7.45 (122424) 13% alcohol
There are aromas of gently spiced red cherry and floral notes on the nose of this light- to medium-bodied nicely balanced spicy Rosé. Pie cherry and freshly picked strawberry flavours glide easily along the palate making this tangy, refreshing and a pleasing summer sipper. Good quaffing on its own—chill as you would a white—it also pairs well with lightly herbed and spiced veal or chicken. (VH)

Australia

***1/2 drink now
Banrock Station Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
South Eastern Australia $13.75 (668970) 1 Litre Tetra Prisma 13.5% alcohol
Packaged in enviro-friendly Tetra providing easy packing for picnics and safety around the pool. Freshly pressed grapes, floral notes and hints of earthiness comprise the aromatic profile of this value-driven Cabernet—approximately $10 per 750 mL. Look for bright red cherry flavour along with perceptible chalky tannin and hints of espresso roast on the finish. Best served with spaghetti Bolognaise or Swiss steak. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Banrock Station Unwooded Chardonnay 2007
South Eastern Australia $12.95 (668954) 1 Litre Tetra Prisma 13.5% alcohol
Banrock contributes over one million dollars to Lake Ontario’s ‘Bring Back the Salmon’ conservation project and provides support to various other conservation initiatives in Ontario. Tangy lemon drop candy, binned apple and sweet tropical fruit flavour abound in this light-bodied value-packed pleasant quaffer. Perfect for patio or deck sipping, it also pairs well with summer fare like grilled chicken strips over a garden fresh salad. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Banrock Station Shiraz 2007
South Eastern Australia $13.75 (668962) 1 Litre Tetra Prisma 13.5% alcohol
Banrock is seriously committed to improving the environment around the world having contributed over five million dollars world-wide to various water-conservation projects, many in Canada. Red berry fruit and cherry cordial aromas provide segue to flavours of cherry and red currant laced with earthy and spicy notes. It’s medium bodied with a warm ripe fruity finish. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Hardys ‘Stamp of Australia’ Chardonnay-Semillon 2007
South Eastern Australia (129825) 250 mL $4.25 13% alcohol
This single-serve shuttle conveniently combines a plastic bottle, acrylic wine glass—both recyclable—and a good blend of Aussie white. Aromas of green apple, honey and pear lead to a zesty surge of crisp apple, ripe pineapple and mixed spice flavours. It’s medium in body and texture with a refreshing finish. Perfect for around the pool or other areas and venues where glass isn’t welcomed. (VH)

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Hardys ‘Stamp of Australia’ Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
South Eastern Australia (129833) 250 mL $4.25 14% alcohol
This offers very good value, earning its final half star because of it. Look for fresh red berry fruit and black currant on the nose and palate. There’s also a gusher of pie cherry and pomegranate on the finish making this a delicious wine sipped on its own or a perfect pairing with chicken, veal or red meat. This handy serving format—a single-serve bottle and a glass—contains the same quality wine you find in the 750 ml glass bottle. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Shingleback ‘Red Knot’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
McLaren Vale, Australia $16.80 (619395) 14% alcohol
The Davey family goes from strength to strength vinfying wines with character and gusto at every price point. Aromas and flavours of ripe juicy Bing cherry, black currant and minty tar are ably supported by a ripe, but perceptible tannin underpinning and a lovely spine of balancing tangy acidity. This is full bodied, generously textured and delivers a fruity and lingering finish. Pour this alongside pepper steak. (VH)

**** drink now
Wolf Blass ‘Red Label’ Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
South Eastern Australia $14.95 (311795) 13.5 % alcohol
Exotic incense, spiced mulberry and eucalyptus rip off the expressive nose of this medium- to full-bodied blend. The palate is treated to a round and fleshy mouthful of fruit flavours—black currant, ripe Damson plum and black raspberry—along with the zesty tang of Montmorency cherry. Impeccably balanced with a lengthy finish, the soft ripe tannin is barely perceptible. This crowd pleaser is well priced. (VH)

**** drink now
Wolf Blass ‘Yellow Label’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
South Australia $16.45 (251876) 13.5 % alcohol
This perennial go-to Cab from one of Australia’s most-recognized wineries hasn’t lost a step in value or drinking pleasure over the years. If you’ve drifted away, you’ll want to return for this vintage. It’s chockfull of aromas and flavours in the succulent cherry, dark berry and juicy black plum zones along with hints of vanilla and mocha. It’s full bodied, generously textured with a lip-smacking lingering finish. Barbequed steak or grilled spicy back ribs pair perfectly. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Yalumba ‘Y Series’ Shiraz Viognier 2007
South Australia $15.95 (624494) 13.5% alcohol
This is a terrific blend—94% Shiraz, 6% Viognier—from a top notch winery. Earthy, dusty and black currant aromas segue into concentrated rich dark fruit flavours—cassis, mulberry and Bing cherry among them. It’s medium to full bodied, generously textured with spot-on balance. The spicy finish lingers and it’s mouth-watering delicious. Lovely on its own, rack of lamb makes it even better. There’s good value here. (VH)

California

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Francis Ford Coppola ‘Bianco’ Pinot Grigio 2008
California $17.60 (56424) 13.5% alcohol
This rich fruity blend—89% Pinot Grigio, 6% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Chardonnay—delivers an aromatic nose of citrus and floral notes. It’s light on its feet and nicely textured with crisp flavours of apple and zesty citrus followed by sweet yellow peach and pineapple. There’s good complexity and balance here. Versatile and food friendly; serve as an aperitif, with lighter fare such as cold cuts and appetizers or with a main of chicken, veal or seafood. (VH)

**** drink now
Francis Ford Coppola Presents ‘Rosso’ Shiraz 2007
California $16.00 (57034) 13.6% alcohol
Sourced from both dry-farmed vines in Lodi and fruit from Paso Robles, this delivers a juicy mouthful of sweet dark fruit. Aromas of freshly pressed grapes and cherry cordial waft from the glass while the flavours are in the sweet cherry cola and dark berry fruit zones. It finishes well balanced with a stream of zesty lip-smacking tang. Pair this with smoked and grilled back ribs slathered in spicy barbeque sauce. (VH)

**** drink now
Robert Mondavi ‘Woodbridge’ Merlot 2007
California $13.45 (494492) 13.5% alcohol
This is a rock-solid red blend—small parcels of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Sangiovese blended in—that delivers a smooth and mellow mouthful of fruit-forward flavour. The aromas and flavours meld perfectly—spiced black plum, ripe black bramble berry and nuances of coffee and toast—it was aged in small French and American oak. It’s beautifully framed by ripe supple tannin and moderating acidity that provides good balance and a dry refreshing finish. Lovely on its own, burgers and gourmet sausage pair perfectly. (VH)

**** drink now
Robert Mondavi ‘Private Selection’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008
California $15.75 (405753) 13.5% alcohol
Gooseberry, ripe tropical fruit and herbaceous aromas roll easily off the nose of this medium-bodied generously textured gem from one of California’s most-recognizable labels. Flavours wash over the palate—gooseberry, pineapple and white peach—finishing with a lingering and generous dollop of white grapefruit tang. Crisp and refreshing, this is looking for pan-seared scallops over a green salad drizzled with light vinaigrette. (VH)

Canada

***1/2 drink now
Colio Estate Cabernet/Merlot 2007
VQA Ontario (432054) $11.95 12.5% alcohol
An expressive nose of dark berry fruit, anise and aromatic bitters opens up this medium-bodied red blend. There are crushed berry fruit flavours—red and black currant—along with mouth-watering pie cherry, hints of mixed spice and herbal notes. This is nicely textured and sports a lengthy balanced finish. Pair this with burgers or gourmet sausage. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Colio Estate Cabernet Franc 2007
VQA Lake Erie North Shore (297184) $11.95 12.8% alcohol
Floral notes mingle with intriguing aromas of oriental spice and mint. It delivers a fine mouthful of mulberry fruit, spiced black plum and herbal nuances. Medium bodied, nicely textured and delivering a lengthy balanced finish, this is the perfect foil to chicken cacciatore. (VH)

**** drink now
Colio Estate Chardonnay 2008
VQA Lake Erie North Shore (432062) $11.75 12.7% alcohol
Soft and pleasant aromas of ripe pear, peach and green apple set up this light- to medium-bodied, nicely textured summer sipper. There are clean and zippy flavours on the palate with crisp green apple and ripe peach among them. It’s well balanced and finishes very refreshing. Pair it with roast chicken strips over a garden fresh salad and light vinaigrette. (VH)

**** drink now
Colio Estate Wines ‘CEV Lily’ Sparkling 2007
VQA Ontario $14.85 (509083) 12% alcohol
One of the best-value sparkling wines in the LCBO, put it on your shopping list. It’s leesy (a fresh yeast aroma) and floral on the nose while the frothy mousse attack on the palate is delightfully full of ripe fruit flavours—peach and nectarine—and crisp lemon-lime. It finishes lip-smacking good making it the perfect aperitif. This splendid blend—77% Riesling and 23% Chardonnay—was a huge hit at a recent dinner served with prawn, chicken and veal canapés. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Colio Estate Shiraz/Cabernet 2007
VQA Ontario (53652) $12.75 12% alcohol
Earthy, spice box with cherry/grapey notes on the nose, this medium-bodied well-textured red delivers a good mouthful of flavour. Expect tangy pie cherry, cranberry and hints of herbal notes on the palate and the lengthy balanced finish. This is looking for a meat loaf or meat-laden pizza. Not overly complex, but delivering fair value. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Henry of Pelham Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (13904) 13% alcohol
Rich and elegant, this top drawer Pinot from the fabulous ’07 vintage opens with complex aromas of wild berry, exotic spice and earthy tones. The palate is treated to wave after wave of well-balanced fruit flavour with ripe pomegranate, tangy cranberry and juicy black raspberry to the fore. Medium bodied and silky smooth, the finish is lengthy and luxurious. Gorgeous sipped on its own, it pairs perfectly with marinated grilled flank steak. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Peninsula Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.75 (53678) 13% alcohol
Aromas of tropical fruit—pineapple and honeydew melon—with subtle hints of herbaceous herbs showcase the ripe ‘07vintage in this light- to medium-bodied sipper. There are ripe yellow peach and sweet pear flavours that are nicely balanced with the zippy zesty tang of white grapefruit. This is well balanced nicely textured and delivers a crisp dry finish. Pan-seared fresh water fish under a squirt of lemon pairs perfectly. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Peninsula Ridge ‘Inox’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.75 (594200) 13% alcohol
Spiced Granny Smith apple and yellow plum aromas provide segue to this value-driven gem—always expect it to be under priced and to over deliver in character and flavour—it earned its final half star on value. Winemaker J. P. Colas hails from Chablis as this unwooded crisp and clean Chardonnay testifies. A persistent and focused stream of green apple and ripe pear with hints of spice bathe the palate while the laser-like finish is full of citrus tang and is mouth-watering good. Sip on its own or pair with lighter appetizers, it’s a winecurrent.com exceptional value pick. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Peninsula Ridge Merlot 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.75 (61101) 13% alcohol
Plummy, earthy and spicy on the nose, this blossoms on the palate with a lip-smacking surge of flavour—dark ripe cherry, ripe cranberry and crushed dried dark berry fruit. It’s medium bodied, plushly textured and delivers a lingering fruity finish that’s balanced with good acidy and perceptible tannin. Aerate / decant for a couple of hours and serve with the kind of comfort food you serve around your house—chili, pizza, meat loaf or burgers hot off the Weber. (VH)

France

**** drink or cellar
french Tom Merlot 2006
Vin de Pays d’Oc $13.95 (114082) 13.5% alcohol
Aromatic and expressive on the nose—dark spiced berry fruit and toasty oak—this medium-bodied gem showers the palate with succulent flavours of cassis, pie cherry and nuances of mocha. It’s silky smooth on the delivery with a ripe tannin underpinning and nicely integrated oak—12 months in new French and American. The lengthy well-balanced finish portends versatile food-pairing with grilled red meat and spicy vegetarian included. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
french Tom Shiraz 2005
Vin de Pays d’Oc $13.95 (11567) 13% alcohol
This begins with a quiet nose of mixed field berry and peppery notes. There’s a ton of fruit flavours on the palate with black juicy cherry and Damson plum mingling with hints of espresso roast and black pepper. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and wrapped in a firm tannin structure—aerate / decant for three hours before serving to smooth them out or serve with red meat, grilled rare to medium rare. It finishes lengthy with good flavour. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Château de Gourgazaud 2007
AOC Minervois (22384) $12.55 13% alcohol
Here’s a good-value blend—Syrah and Mourvèdre—that’s medium bodied, silky smooth and full of flavour with dark berry fruit, some earthiness and mixed spice all present. On the lengthy and well-balanced finish you’ll find cassis and mulberry with a nice sprig of mint. There’s enough tannin for structure and zingy tang for good balance making this a versatile partner for grilled burgers and steak or a meat-laden pizza. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Maison Louis Latour ‘Ardèche’ Chardonnay 2006
Vin de Pays des Coteaux des l’Ardèche (132498) $12.00 13.5% alcohol
Vanilla, tropical fruit and distinctive almond aromas provide segue to expressive and tangy flavours of spiced green apple and pear along with zesty citrus peel throughout, especially on the mouth-watering finish. This is medium bodied, nicely textured—full malolactic fermentation—and matches up well to roast chicken or turkey. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Maison Louis Latour Chardonnay 2007
AOC Burgundy (55533) $15.95 13% alcohol
Pleasing aromas of Granny Smith apple, floral and mineral notes open up Latour’s medium-bodied entry-level white Burgundy. The generous flavours include green apple, ripe pear and nuances of white peach that are nicely supported by a very agreeable spine of citrussy tang. This is well priced and delivers a well-balanced mouthful of Chardonnay when drunk on its own or when paired with all manner of light appetizers or with a main course of roast chicken. (VH)

*** drink now
Maison Louis Latour Pinot Noir 2007
AOC Burgundy (69914) $18.45 13% alcohol
Look for red cherry and spice with underlying notes of forest floor aromas. Pie cherry, spiced red cranberry and hints of red raspberry form the tangy zesty flavour profile. This has plenty of verve from focused acidity pairing extremely well with cuisine that includes tomato-based sauce—pair with veal parmigiano or spaghetti bolognese. (VH)

**** drink now
Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Réserve Particulière Non Vintage
AOC Champagne $50.60 (537605) 12% alcohol
This medium-bodied nicely textured bubbly opens with an expressive nose of leesy, floral and pit fruit aromas. Complex flavours of spiced Granny Smith apple, ripe lemon citrus tang and sweet yellow peach are carried along with a zesty mousse that’s clean and refreshing on the palate. Versatile and approachable, this sips beautifully on its own with the body and character to pair well with a variety of foods—spicy Asian and all manner of fowl and sea food. (VH)

Italy

***1/2 drink now
Italia Montepulciano 2007
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $10.40 (35154) 14% alcohol
There’s a distinctive silver circle with a lower case ‘i’ on the label marking the path to this medium-bodied nicely textured value-driven red. It opens with a rich and complex nose of dark berry fruit and black plum then coats the palate with a persistent stream of red raspberry, cranberry and pie cherry flavours. It finishes dry with perceptible tannin, making it the perfect partner to pizza and spaghetti Bolognaise. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Italia Pinot Grigio 2007
IGT Provincia de Pavia $10.35 (35147) 12% alcohol
There’s a lifted nose of apricot, honeyed pear and floral notes in this well-priced light- to medium-bodied summer sipper. Look for binned apple, tropical fruit and nectarine flavours throughout with a hint of spice on the medium-length finish. Definitely built for deck and patio sipping, it also matches up well to light appetizers—chicken, veal or seafood. (VH)

**** drink now
Luna di Luna Shiraz Merlot 2006
IGT Sicilia $12.25 (621714) 13% alcohol
This 50/50 blend is easily recognizable in its fluorescent orange bottle. There are black pepper, ripe mulberry and plum aromas on this medium-bodied plush-textured beauty. The palate is treated to a lovely wave of fruit flavours with red cherry, plum and sweet red berry fruit to the fore. It’s well balanced with perceptible tannin and a finish that layers on hints of roasted herbs. Pour it alongside meat-laden pizza or beefsteak grilled medium rare. (VH)

*** drink now
Pasqua Pinot Grigio-Chardonnay 2007
IGT Delle Venezie $9.95 (530451) 12% alcohol
The subdued nose of apple and spiced tree fruit introduces this light on its feet, nicely textured citrussy blend. There’s a stream of fruit flavours with lemony citrus and yellow plum predominant. Excellent as a sipping aperitif, this also pairs well with sea food starters such as prawns or scallops under a drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)

South Africa

****1/2 drink now
Nederberg ‘The Winemaster’s Reserve’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008
WO Western Cape (382713) $10.90 13% alcohol
This delivers a delicious mouthful of zesty Sauvignon Blanc for a pittance—stock up for summer-time sipping. Gooseberry, nettles and canned pea aromas set up this medium-bodied, nicely textured fruity and value-driven white. Look for zingy flavours of ripe lemon-lime and gooseberry as well as binned apple and pear. It cleans up with mouth-watering citrus tang, making it a natural partner with all manner of grilled white fish under a drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon. This earned its final half star on value. (VH)

New in Ontario Wineries

**** drink or cellar
Coyote’s Run ‘Black Paw Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc 2007
VQA Four Mile Creek $20.00 12% alcohol
This is a gutsy Cab Franc with age on its side. The heavy dark clay soil and 14 months in oak contribute to its density and charm. There are aromas and flavours galore—ripe dark berry fruit, anise, spiced black plum and herbal notes among them. It’s medium to full bodied with perceptible grainy tannin and a lingering finish. Drink 2011 to 2014 or pour now with a strip loin grilled medium rare. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Coyote’s Run or Winery to Home. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Coyote’s Run ‘Black Paw Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Four Mile Creek $21.00 13.5% alcohol
Look for expressive aromas and flavours in this classy barrel-fermented Chard. Mixed spice, pear and apple aromas give way to rich and intense flavours with Granny Smith apple, ripe lemon citrus and delicious nectarine to the fore. It wraps up clean, refreshing, well balanced and lip-smacking good. It’s paired perfectly with roast chicken or turkey with root veggies. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Coyote’s Run or Winery to Home. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Coyote’s Run Pinot Gris/Pinot Blanc 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.00 12% alcohol
Enjoy lifted aromas of ripe yellow peach and pear along with floral and spice notes in this medium-bodied gem. Succulent flavours—tropical fruit and refreshing citrus—are delivered via a silky smooth texture and mouth-watering finish of lemon-lime verve. Impeccably balanced, this delightful patio-sipping blend has the structure and character to pair well with food; try pan-seared scallops on a bed of arugula or tarte d’Alsace. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Coyote’s Run or Winery to Home. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Konzelmann ‘Red Moose’ 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.00 12.5% alcohol
Austria is home to Zweigelt, the grape used to make this barrel-aged red, but it’s also grown in Niagara and B.C.. There are spicy and gamey notes on the quiet nose while the flavours are in the sweet mulberry and pie cherry zones. There’s a generous dollop of lip-smacking zesty tang on the finish redolent of a spicy Pinot Noir. A versatile food wine, pair with pizza, burgers and gourmet sausage. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery direct from Konzelmann. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Konzelmann ‘Winemaster’s Selection - Barrel Aged’ Shiraz 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.00 13% alcohol
The fabulous ’07 vintage, 9 months in oak and meticulous vine management and winemaking technique coalesce in this lovely Shiraz that earned its final half star on the value it presents. Peppery, earthy and fruity on the nose, the flavours arrive in wave after delicious wave—sweet succulent plum, black berry and ripe sweet mulberry. It’s light to medium bodied, incredibly well balanced and sports a lingering silky smooth finish. It’s simply delicious. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery direct from Konzelmann. (VH)

**** drink now
Lailey Vineyard Vidal 2008
VQA Ontario $14.00 11.5% alcohol
Clean, refreshing and brimming with tangy fruit; aromas and flavours of sweet white peach, ripe nectarine and crispy lemon flow smoothly through the lingering mouth-watering finish. There’s good texture, deft balance—a scant (2) on the sugar scale, it tastes like a (1)—in this medium-bodied beauty providing a summer sipper as well as a perfect partner with seafood, veal, chicken or spicy Asian cuisine. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey Vineyard. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Lailey Vineyard ‘Old Vines’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara River $40.00 13% alcohol
This is stunning and provides terrific value—if from Burgundy, double the price. Delivered in a wooden box, it’s low yield, estate fruit—35 year old vines—unfined and unfiltered. Vanilla, smoky notes plus apple and pear aromas abound. The sensory experience gets into high gear on the palate—complex and perfectly balanced you’ll find caramel, tropical fruit and crisp Granny Smith apple. Only 100 dozen of this premium wine made, far fewer remain. Purchase by the 6 bottle case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey Vineyard. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Lailey Vineyard Cabernet Merlot 2007
VQA Niagara River $20.00 13.5% alcohol
A gorgeous red blend—45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc—offering expressive aromas and rich succulent dark fruit flavour—ripe black currant, tangy pie cherry and spiced black plum galore. This is medium bodied, boldly textured and offers a solid underpinning of perceptible tannin. Decant/aerate two hours before serving and pair it with marinated barbecued flank steak and stuffed green peppers. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey Vineyard. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Lailey Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2007
VQA Niagara River $30.00 13.5% alcohol
It’s concentrated and gutsy, look for expressive aromas of vanilla, bramble berry fruit and toasty notes. The palate is drenched with ripe dark fruit, black raspberry, Damson plum and Bing cherry to the fore. It’s medium to full bodied, well balanced and finishes warm and lengthy with a lovely gusher of cassis. The 2007 vintage really shines here with ripe dark and juicy fruit flavours. Glorious sipped on its own, it also pairs well with grilled red meat. Purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey Vineyard. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Pillitteri Estates Winery ‘Select Late Harvest’ 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (71761) 375 mL 11% alcohol
This blend—95% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon—is just a tad off being ice wine for a fraction the cost. It was pressed from the same grapes used to make ice wine, but just as they reached 0+ degrees C. It’s a hedonistic experience with sweet succulent bright cherry and ripe cranberry flavours galore. There’s incredible balance from a firm stream of zippy acidity and it finishes very clean and refreshing. Absolutely divine paired with blue-vein cheese or Tiramisù. Order a case for home or office daily delivery directly from Pillitteri. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Tawse Winery ‘Laundry Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc 2007
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $29.00 13% alcohol
Aromas of spice and mineral with undertones of chalk introduce expressive flavours of succulent pie cherry, ripe cranberry, red currant and nuances of mocha. The serious spine of lip-smacking acidity is deftly balanced by the ripe red cherry, red berry fruit and chalky tannin. It’s young and a bit tight right now, handsomely rewarding short-term cellaring—enjoy 2010 to 2014. Order a case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (VH)

**** drink now
Tawse Winery Chardonnay Musque 2008
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $22.00 11% alcohol
This limited-production—only 110 cases made—single-vineyard beauty deserves a spot on your spring/summer patio table. The aromas of exotic spice and ripe pear provide segue to rich flavours of spiced green apple, ripe lemon citrussy tang and white peach. It’s light to medium bodied, nicely textured with a brief, but well-balanced dry finish. Sip on its own or pair with grilled prawns marinated in lemon and garlic. Order a case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (VH

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tawse Winery ‘Growers Blend’ Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $38.00 13% alcohol
Perfumed and tantalizing aromas of ripe red cherry, black plum and incense drift from the nose of this well-structured red. The mouthful of gorgeous flavour includes a gusher of tangy cherry, ripe mulberry and red currant along with hints of chocolate and mixed spice. It’s medium in texture and body with a lingering well-balanced finish of dark berry fruit. This saw 15 months in oak—already perfectly integrated—and was farmed and bottled respecting organic principles. Pair this with marinated pork tenderloin or smoked duck breast. Order a case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (VH)

**** drink now
Tawse Winery ‘Misek Vineyard’ Riesling 2008
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $22.00 10% alcohol
Mineral, honeyed citrus peel and floral notes form the aromatic profile of this medium-bodied silky-textured off-dry Riesling. There’s a spectacular explosion of sweet and tang flavours with spiced citrus, pineapple and white peach drenching the palate. The lengthy finish has deft balance. Pair with pan-seared lemon and garlic prawns and scallops or any spicy Asian dish. Order a case for home or office daily delivery from Tawse Winery. (VH)

New in Consignment

****1/2 drink or cellar
Carrick ‘Unravelled’ Pinot Noir 2007
Central Otago, South Island, New Zealand $30.50 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of dark berry fruit along with earthy and spice-driven nuances announce this medium-bodied gem. This is a juicy delicious drop with understated oak and a glorious array of ripe luscious fruit flavours—mulberry, ripe cranberry and pie cherry to the fore. There’s bracing acidity for excellent balance and a lingering fruit-forward finish. A top notch well-priced effort. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lifford Wine Agency. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Meerlust Merlot 2005
WO Stellenbosch, South Africa $33.95 13.7% alcohol
Respected around the world, Meerlust meticulously fashions their wines—estate hand-picked grapes, 11% Cabernet Franc blended in for complexity, French oak aged for 17 months then cellared two additional years in bottle before being released. The result is a dazzling, inky, powerful red offering aromas of spiced black plum along with nuances of smoke. There’s a solid and powerful gusher of flavour—cassis, juicy ripe black plum and bitter-sweet chocolate framed by a ripe tannin structure. This is medium bodied, generously textured and sports a well-balanced and lingering finish. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lifford Wine Agency. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Meerlust Pinot Noir 2006
WO Stellenbosch, South Africa $38.95 14% alcohol
Mixed spice box and floral aromas waft from the glass of this juicy tangy Pinot. The flavours are complex and fruit driven, look for spiced pie cherry, mulberry and tangy red currant. The seamless integration of French oak—70% new, aged eleven months—and the ripe supple tannin add complexity and structure to this medium-bodied, nicely textured wine. The finish is lengthy, impeccably balanced and lip-smacking delicious. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lifford Wine Agency. (VH)

***** drink now
Poole’s Rock Wines ‘Cockfighter’s Ghost’ Pinot Gris 2008
Victoria, Australia $32.50 13.5% alcohol
Easily the best Pinot Gris tasted in recent memory, this is grand in scope and flavour laden. Ultra-premium fruit was used to fashion the medium-bodied, satiny-textured dry crisp beauty. Aromas and flavours abound with nectarine, orange-lemon peel marmalade, spiced pear and fennel among them. The fruit-driven finish shows perfect balance and ends with a mouth-watering wave of citrus. Pair this with lightly breaded calamari, fried golden crisp. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lifford Wine Agency. (VH)

**** drink now
Siam Winery ‘Monsoon Valley’ 2007
Chao Praya Delta, Kingdom of Thailand $11.95 12% alcohol
Here’s an aromatic great-value white that’s built for spicy Asian cuisine. You may have enjoyed this in better Thai restaurants, now you can enjoy it at home. Spice-laden aromas introduce this light-bodied, well-balanced blend of Malaga Blanc and Colombard grapes. It’s flavour laden—green apple, ripe pear and sweet succulent yellow peach—crisp and refreshing. It finishes with the sweet and tang that’s made for pairing with spicy cuisine. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery from Kolonaki Group, in Eastern Ontario from Antonios at 613.265.8233. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Viña Seña ‘Arboleda’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Leyda, Casablanca, Chile $15.95 14% alcohol
This is outstanding. Focused and pungent aromas jump from the glass with mineral, nettles and lemongrass to the fore. The flavours are vibrant and luscious with gooseberry, tangy lemon-lime and sweet ripe pineapple predominant. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and refreshing on the well-balanced finish. There’s enough residual sugar to pair this perfectly with spicy Asian cuisine or an asparagus quiche. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lifford Wine Agency. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Viña Seña ‘Arboleda’ Carmenère 2007
DO Colchagua, Chile $23.50 14.5% alcohol
This stunning wine was vinified from hand-picked estate fruit—12 year-old vines—then aged 12 months in new French and American oak. Inky black, almost opaque in the glass, this is medium bodied, impeccably balanced and brimming with fruit-forward aromas and flavours. Look for brambly berry, cassis and spiced black plum on the palate along with a lip-smacking rush of tangy black raspberry and Bing cherry on the lengthy finish. It’s framed by ripe tannin that’s very approachable now. This offers good value. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lifford Wine Agency. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Viña Seña ‘Arboleda’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
DO Aconcagua, Chile $23.50 14.5% alcohol
The lifted aromas of mint, toasty notes and dark cherry open up freely in the glass. There’s a glorious array of flavours to dazzle the palate—black cherry compote, pie cherry, spiced mulberry and espresso roast. Rich and concentrated, the single-vineyard fruit was hand-picked and aged twelve months in French and American oak, 55% new. It’s well balanced and sports a gargantuan finish. Pick up a case and drink over the next eight years. Order by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lifford Wine Agency. (VH)

Cheers, Vic

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 starsWines of excellence
3 starsWines well worth trying
2  starsWines below average, but drinkable
1 starWines better avoided, unless desperate
half starRepresents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar