April 11, 2009 Vintages Release

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter reviews begin with a feature on wines designed to pair with an Easter celebration followed by ‘eco-friendly’ wines and a mini-feature on wines from Ontario exhibiting ‘somewhereness’. The familiar country/region format follows in the 'Main Release' with wines reviewed in the order they appear in the Vintages Release brochure.

Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

• An even dozen wines costing $15.00and less.
• An Italian red made from Malbec.
• Finding Waldo — there are four great Viogniers reviewed.

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Bright and bubbly – Burgundy

Dufouleur Père & Fils Crémant de Bourgogne Brut 2005
AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $21.95 (047241) 12.5% alcohol
Made from Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Aligoté, this is good value and a solid sparkling wine. Plenty of toast, nougat and almond aromas mingling with strawberry, citrus and baked pear fruit. This light-bodied style is lively and crisp in the mouth with good balance and length. An ideal aperitif or partner with smoked fish appetizers. (MT)

Sweetness in harmony – California

Ironstone Vineyards ‘Obsession’ Symphony 2007
California $14.95 (355784)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Musky, floral and Turkish delight aromas waft off the extremely fragrant nose of this idiosyncratic gem. It’s medium in weight and texture delivering a mouthful of sweet and ripe flavours with musk melon, fresh grape and spiced lemon to the fore. There’s good moderating acidity on the lingering finish. As the Vintages catalogue suggests, it’s a popular go-to wine for pairing with spicy Asian dishes. (VH)

Ripe and ready red – Puglia

Mastoleo Salice Salentino ‘Riserva’ 2004
DOC $15.95 (121632) 13.5% alcohol
This pleasing red is made mainly from the Negroamaro grape from Italy’s south east region of Puglia. It’s a fruit-forward wine with candied cherry and strawberry fruit alongside a note of currant liqueur. The fruit flavours continue on the palate coupled with good acidity and soft, lingering tannin that provide solid balance. There’s enough stuffing to allow it to drink well into 2012, but this wine is also very approachable today. Glazed ham will work nicely. (MT)

Perfumed and peachy – Midi

Domaine de Gourgazaud Viognier 2007
Vin de Pays d’Oc $15.95 (732533) 13.5% alcohol
It’s sometimes hard to find a Viognier so expressive and providing great value, but this wine delivers on both counts. The enchanting nose features orange blossom and tree fruit—pear and peach—aromatics. With a soft, smooth texture, this full-bodied wine feels rich in the mouth and is nicely balanced and pleasantly long in the finish. Match it with roasted turkey or game bird with fruit chutney. (MT)

Robust red – Rhône

Clos du Mont-Olivet ‘Font de Blanche’ Côtes-du-Rhône 2006
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône $16.95 (102947) 14% alcohol
This blend is dominated by Grenache and the characteristics of that grape shine through. Expect red plum and strawberry aromas with more subtle notes of black pepper and menthol. On the palate, ripe tannins are present in just the right amount to create good balance now and for short term cellaring up to four years. Fruity and full bodied, this value-packed red will pair effortlessly with braised red meats. (MT)

Crisp and clean – Australia

Stella Bella Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Margaret River $18.95 (048546) 13% alcohol
The nose here is reminiscent of a well made Californian Fumé Blanc, where Sauvignon Blanc is often blended with a touch of Semillon and the winemaker adds a dash of oak in the process. Expansive aromas of butterscotch and caramel are evident alongside tropical fruit and grass notes. In the mouth, the refreshing acidity balances the fruit and there’s a nice round texture in the thanks to the Semillon. This is medium to full bodied with good length, and will suit milder, firm cheeses. (MT)

Fruit and oak harmony – Burgundy

Loron & Fils ‘Bourgogne Blanc’ Chardonnay 2007
AOC Bourgogne $19.95 (110304) 13% alcohol
Lemon, plus green and red apple fruits are the dominant aromas here with subtle oak treatment evident by the note of caramel. This wine is soft, with gentle acidity creating good balance for the fruit. It’s a lighter style that will suit lighter main dishes such as seared salmon or trout. Good value for a well-crafted Burgundian Chardonnay. (MT)

Sprightly springtime Rosé – California

Clos du Bois Rosé 2008
Sonoma County $14.95 (120253) 13% alcohol
From a blend of 84% Syrah and 16% Merlot, this is sure to be a crowd pleaser. It’s bold and bright with focused red berry fruit alongside a touch of mint on the nose. It’s lively and fresh with a subtle tannic backbone providing great texture. This medium-bodied rosé will be a natural for foods close to its colour – namely salmon and Berkshire pork. Great value for a wine from this producer, so don’t feel you just have to enjoy it in the spring. (MT)

Textured and tangy – Ontario

Cave Spring Cellars 'Estate' Riesling 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment $17.95 (286377)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) The '07 vintage has produced exciting wines and here's one of them. It has it all, aromas of mineral, citrus and spice that introduce a full-bodied and fully textured glorious burst of flavours—Granny Smith apple and oodles of citrussy zest and raciness. It's dry, impeccably balanced and lip-smacking good. This is a Vintages Essentials product, always available in selected LCBO stores. (VH)

Bursting with berries – Rhône

Domaine Maby La Forcadière Tavel 2008
AOC Tavel $18.95 (701318) 14% alcohol
Grenache-based Rosés of Tavel can be incredibly versatile with food and this is no exception. Raspberry, strawberry and cranberry fruit aromas are at the fore with a subtle note of fresh herbs. The palate is packed with ripe fruit flavor balanced by a nice core of acidity and a very subtle tannic backdrop. This full-er bodied wine is delicious on its own but will be a great choice for a mixed plate of poultry, salmon and red meat. (MT)

Delicious and balanced – Ontario

Konzelmann Special Select Late Harvest Vidal 2006
VQA Ontario $19.95 / 375mL (409474) 10.5% alcohol
This has a beautiful nose of honeyed apricot and baked golden apple fruit with lychee and floral notes creating even more character. It features lively acidity to balance the sweetness—the result is a wine that is both rich and refreshing. This lighter bodied beauty pairs well with dessert, but will also make a great partner for a salad of steamed spinach and sweet potatoes with feta cheese. (MT)

Luscious and luxurious – Sicily

Pellegrino Pantelleria Passito Liquoroso 2007
DOC $19.95 / 500mL (585703) 15% alcohol
The nose reminds one of Grand Marnier with liqueured apricot and orange rind alongside a fresh grape and floral character. The aromas jump out of the glass and the intensity on the nose develops on the palate. It’s certainly sweet, but not at all cloying as excellent acidity provides balance while helping extend the flavours into a memorable finish. This is a very versatile dessert wine and can be enjoyed with chocolate cheesecake, dried fruits, or simple firm cheeses at the end of a meal. (MT)

Feature: Being Green

This feature includes wines that are organic, biodynamic as well as from wineries employing sustainable agriculture. More and more consumers and wineries are opting for products that are considered to be made in a ‘natural’ and ‘eco-friendly’ manner.

Organic Wines

Frogpond Farm Organic Riesling 2006
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, Niagara Peninsula $11.95 / 500mL (590190) 12.2% alcohol
The pleasant nose includes aromas of orange and honeyed peach with a subtly sweet nature. On the palate the wine is bone dry with enough racy acidity to make your mouth water. This light-bodied wine has nice length and is a good choice as an aperitif or with salads in a light vinaigrette dressing. The 500mL format is quite handy for those wanting to share less than a full bottle before the main course. (MT)


Malivoire Chardonnay 2006
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment $22.00 (573147)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Meticulous winemaking procedures—hand picked, whole cluster pressed, partial French oak barrel fermentation, full malolactic conversion and lees ageing for eight months—coalesced with eco-friendly vine management producing this medium-bodied fully textured gem. Expressive aromas, grapefruit and apple compote, segue a gorgeous array of fruit flavours with pineapple, ripe citrus and muskmelon predominant. The crisp clean finish lingers. Pair with roast pork tenderloin stuffed with dried apricots and cranberries. (VH)


Bonterra Chardonnay 2007
Mendocino County, California $18.95 (342346)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This barrel-fermented beauty was vinified from organically grown fruit. There are expressive aromas of toast, butterscotch and vanilla that are the precursors to a lovely mouthful of delicious fruit flavours with Granny Smith apple, ripe peach and pineapple to the fore. It finishes crisp, clean and refreshing with a lovely snap of citrus tang. Pour this alongside creamy chicken or turkey a la king. This is a ‘Vintages Essentials’ product—as it’s always available in selected LCBO stores. (VH)


Bonterra Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Mendocino County, California $19.95 (342428)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) A ‘Vintages Essentials’ product—it’s always available in selected LCBO stores. This opens with a lifted nose of earthy, spicy, forest floor aromas then shifts into high gear with a gusher of gorgeously rich and concentrated flavours—cassis, tart pie cherry and ripe juicy black raspberry. There’s excellent balance and good structure supplied by ripe and plush tannin, a generous texture and good weight. The finish layers on hints of mint and mocha. This was vinified from organically grown fruit from a winery that’s serious about sustainable agriculture. The price-quality balance is tipped in your favour. (VH)


Bonterra Zinfandel 2007
Mendocino County, California $18.95 (530139) 14.5% alcohol
Expect a nose full of good old-fashioned Californian Zinfandel goodness—blueberry pie and strawberry jam aromas with a dollop of oak and sweet spice. The palate is juicy initially with surprisingly big tannins lurking under all of the fruit. The result is great balance and the potential for this wine to age at least another five years. This is full bodied and dense, pairing well with rare game in a wildberry jus. (MT)


Natura Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Casablanca Valley, Chile $15.95 (093914) 13.5% alcohol
The aromas here are nicely balanced with fresh grass and herbs offset by lime, grapefruit and dried mint. There’s good acidity, yet the wine isn’t at all sharp and has very nice balance. This is light bodied with good fruit relays on the finish. Pan-seared sole in a lemon dill butter will suit. (MT)


Las Lomas Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Maule Valley, Chile $15.95 (917922) 14% alcohol
This well-priced, fruit-forward wine offers plum and cassis fruit with a touch of violet and menthol on the nose. Substantial, ripe tannins provide plenty of structure and a chewy mouth feel. This is full bodied and could easily age another four years. Or it could be enjoyed tonight with rare steak. At this price, you’re a winner either way. (MT)


Pargua II 2006
Maipo Valley, Chile $19.95 (093279) 15.1% alcohol
Here’s a blend of 6 grapes: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Carmenère, 15% Syrah, 10% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Black currant and Bing cherry fruit combine with significant notes of black pepper, tobacco leaf and vanilla. On the palate there are ripe, nearly syrupy, fruit flavours coating the tongue while the soft structure creates a very smooth overall impression. This is full bodied and drinking very well today—enjoy with firm cheese or braised red meat. (MT)


Domaine du Petit ‘Coteau Les Grenouilles’ Sec Vouvray 2007
AOC Vouvray $17.95 (106815) 13% alcohol
Here’s a great price for a Vouvray that will improve with time. It has a complex profile of buckwheat honey, wet hay and mushroom combined with grapefruit and pear fruits. It’s light bodied and lively with a solid stream of acidity from entry to finish. It also sports a touch of mineral character on the finish. Enjoy today with poultry in cream sauce or cellar five years to enjoy more complex aromas and flavours. This is very good value. (MT)

Sustainable Agriculture

Louis Sipp Sylvaner 2007
AOC Alsace $15.95 (106799) 12.5% alcohol
Sylvaner may not be the most popular grape in Alsace, but it is capable of creating very fine wines. The intense nose here offers up plenty of lime, chalk and floral complexity. In the mouth this is lively, light and clean with a crisp mouth feel. It’s well balanced with moderate length, and an excellent choice as an aperitif. (MT)

Feature: Ontario ‘Somewhereness’

Flat Rock Cellars ‘The Rusty Shed’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment $24.95 (001552) 13.5% alcohol
Enjoy great aromatic balance here with toasty oak notes offset by ripe pear and yellow apple fruit. In time, the oak becomes more dominant and caramel aromas evolve. In the mouth, soft acidity creates a creamy and rich sensation on this medium- to full-bodied effort. It has solid length and will be a delicious partner for butter poached scallops. Very nice. (MT)


Malivoire ‘Mottiar Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment $34.00 (125252) 13% alcohol
Focused black cherry and strawberry fruit aromas mingle with mocha, vanilla and a subtle earthiness. This well-structured wine has good acidity and substantial tannin that could use a bit of time to soften. It’s medium in body with a long finish and will reward patient cellaring of two to three years. Pair with oven roasted duck breast. (MT)


Norman Hardie ‘County’ Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Prince Edward County $35.20 (125310) 11.5% alcohol
While it’s rare to find a wine that exhibits true ‘barnyard’ aromatics, this one gets pretty close. Cranberry and pie cherry aromas combine with the manure and mushroom farm complexity that gets diehard Pinot Noir fans truly excited. There’s a touch of mineral complexity underneath everything else, creating a very intriguing profile. The wine is lean on the palate with high acidity and negligible tannins and quite light in body. It’s a food wine for certain and grilled salmon in a fruit sauce will soften the acidity and enhance the fruit character. (MT)


Stratus White 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $44.20 (660704) 13.5% alcohol
This is a proprietary blend that may include Chardonnay, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. The nose is pleasantly fruity with honeyed peach and red apple. Subtle minerality adds complexity, as does a note of sweet oak, indicating some of the wine in this blend spent time in barrel. It’s medium to full bodied with balanced acidity providing structure. This is both rich and lively with refreshing acidity combining with firm density on the palate. Broiled lobster tail with drawn butter is a decadent match. (MT)


Tawse Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $32.20 (054809) 13% alcohol
There’s plenty of aromatic complexity here with rhubarb and cranberry combining with leather, mushroom and sweet spice notes. The palate offers ripe and vibrant fruit character, lively acidity and soft lingering tannins. This is medium in body with more ripe fruit on the long finish. It’s very enjoyable today and will continue to evolve for at least another five years. Roasted Cornish hen in a wild mushroom ragout will do nicely. (MT)

The Main Release

Champagne

Jacquart Extra Brut Champagne
AOC Champagne $49.95 (092817) 12.5% alcohol
Expect plenty of lemony and green apple goodness in this non-vintage effort along with subtle notes of toast, biscuit and white flowers. It features vibrant acidity up front with a slightly creamy mid palate balanced wonderfully by the persistent mousse. This Champagne is medium in body with very nice length and will look quite nice beside steamed King crab with a squeeze of fresh lemon. (MT)

USA: White Wine

Jocelyn Lonen Chardonnay 2006
Carneros, California $39.95 (090076) 14.5% alcohol
The expansive nose of this well-crafted Chardonnay offers butterscotch, papaya, butter and spice. This is full bodied and nicely balanced with a creamy texture and a powerful impact in the mouth. Whereas many producers of oaked Chardonnay are now emphasizing the acidity of their wines, that’s not the case here. This is soft, rich and luscious, with a mouth-coating texture built just right for soft shell crab. (MT)

Argentina: White Wine

La Chamiza ‘Polo Professional’ Chardonnay 2007
Mendoza $12.95 (093864) 14% alcohol
The nose here is all about tropical fruit—mainly kiwi and passion fruit. There’s a subtle oak note in the form of vanilla, but this is really a fruit driven wine. It features a ripe and dense palate, with just the right amount of acidity for balance. This is full bodied and very solid for the price. (MT)


Viniterra Terra Viognier 2008
Mendoza $14.95 (057919) 14% alcohol
Notes of pear and peach waft from the glass and are joined by orange blossom, tangerine and just a touch of eucalyptus. In the mouth it’s full and juicy with plenty of acidity that really helps sustain the flavours into a long finish. This well balanced wine is quite enjoyable on its own and will also enhance a meal of baked white fish with a fruit compote. Excellent value. (MT)

Argentina: Red Wine

Trapiche ‘Broquel’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Mendoza $14.95 (017202) 14% alcohol
Enjoy intense aromas of cassis and tobacco leaf with more subtle notes of bell pepper, vanilla and savoury spice. This wine carries solid acidity and moderate tannin, leading to good balance and a nice extension of the fruit flavours through the finish. This is full bodied and quite enjoyable today but will be even more approachable in just a couple of years, and at this price you could certainly buy enough for down the road. Grill up a nice porterhouse—that’s the regional match called for here. (MT)

Chile: Red Wine

Tabali Reserva Merlot 2006
Limari Valley $14.95 (093740) 14% alcohol
The nose is chock full of fruit with cassis, black plum, blueberry and red cherry all surrounding a splash of vanilla. The ripe fruit flavours continue through the palate with refreshing acidity and very soft tannins creating a juicy feel in the mouth. This is full bodied, fruit forward and fun, and enjoyable on its own or with braised veal. (MT)

Australia: Red Wine

D’Arenberg The Ironstone Pressings Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2006
McLaren Vale $49.95 (974816) 15% alcohol
Yummy would be the most fitting, if not technical, word to describe this gorgeous offering. The lovely nose is big and fruity with blueberry fruit alongside vanilla, white pepper and cedar. There’s even a touch of mint for further complexity. This is very full-bodied and richly structured, showcasing voluptuous ripe tannin that coats the palate and creates terrific balance. The finish is long and enjoyable and the wine deserves a couple of years in the cellar before approaching an optimal drinking range of 2012 to 2018. (MT)


Heartland ‘Stickleback Red’ 2007
South Australia $15.00 (116574) 14.5% alcohol
This wine combines Cabernet Sauvignon with Shiraz, Dolcetto and Grenache. It has an intriguing nose that combines fruit with both spice and earthiness. Black plum and cherry fruit, white pepper and leather notes all grab your olfactory attention here. The palate is fruit driven, supported by fine lingering tannins and a full-bodied frame. It has very good length and will pair quite well with pork tenderloin and veal dishes. Excellent value. (MT)


Hewitson ‘Ned & Henry’s’ Shiraz 2007
Barossa Valley $22.95 (054221) 13.5% alcohol
Copious amounts of blueberry and blackberry fruit waft from the glass followed by hints of dark chocolate, baking spice and vanilla. This is medium to full bodied with good finesse. At 13.5% alcohol, it isn’t nearly as heavy as many wines from this very warm region. It’s soft in the mouth with just enough tannin to balance the fruit—best consumed today and over the next year. Pair with mild, firm-textured cheese. (MT)


Sandalford ‘Estate Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Margaret River $26.95 (022293) 14.5% alcohol
Expect aromas of cassis and eucalyptus with a touch of black pepper and roasted coffee. The palate is all about rich dark fruit flavor while a nice core of acidity and ripe tannin create balance. This is full bodied and ready for drinking today and over the next three years. Roast beef will suit. (MT)

South Africa: Red Wine

Delheim Shiraz 2005
WO Simonsberg-Stellenbosch $16.95 (959080) 14.5% alcohol
Here’s a well made wine from a very consistent producer. Concentrated aromas of black and blueberry fruit are joined by black pepper and oak notes of toast and smoke. There’s plenty of ripe fruit on the palate, offset by lingering tannin wrapped up under all the fruit. This is well balanced and sports a lengthy finish. It will be at its peak between 2011 and 2015. Pair with grilled rack of lamb. (MT)

France: White Wine

André Blanck et ses Fils ‘Clos Schwendi’ Pinot Gris 2007
AOC Alsace $19.95 (686311) 14% alcohol
The expressive nose includes aromas of lime, tangerine and pear fruit, as well as smoke and mineral notes. This is a full-bodied, off-dry style which sports lively acidity and excellent balance. It’s as enjoyable to taste as it is to smell and the fruit flavours linger pleasantly through the lengthy finish. Pad Thai on the spicy side will be just right. (MT)


Hugel ‘Gentil’ 2006
AOC Alsace $15.95 (367284) 11.5% alcohol
This wine is a blend and although the winery doesn’t release the specifics the likely suspects include Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Sylvaner. It has a nose of honeyed peach and floral character, with sweet spice (ginger) and a note of green peas. It’s crisp, light and lively and just ever so slightly off-dry. Good choice as an aperitif or with pan-seared rainbow trout. (MT)

Burgundy

Domaine Roger Luquet ‘Terroir Pouilly-Fuissé’ 2007
AOC Pouilly-Fuissé $29.95 (907931) 13% alcohol
Here’s a white Burgundy from a true specialist—Roger Luquet only produces Chardonnay. This wine has a rich nutty nose with Anjou pear, butter and mineral character. In the mouth there’s lively acidity that both refreshes and provides good balance for the fruit. This is light to medium in body with a pleasantly long finish that showcases more mineral character. Poached sablefish will make a good pairing. (MT)

France: Red Wine

Bordeaux

Château Tourte des Graves Rouge 2005
AOC Graves $29.95 (117630) 12.5% alcohol
This Bordeaux blend is dominated by Merlot, but the Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc elements are also quite apparent. It has red berry and plum aromas with further nuances of bell pepper, earth and smoke. The medium-bodied palate is currently dominated by tannin, yet this wine has sufficient fruit character to evolve into a wonderfully balanced wine with about five to seven years in the cellar. This is very good value for an age-worthy wine of this vintage, and will suit rare rack of lamb or venison. (MT)


Christian Moueix Pomerol 2006
AOC Pomerol $29.95 (903013)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This offers a smooth and fruity wine for anyone wishing to experience a good 'entry-level' Bordeaux at a reasonable price. Expect black plum and mixed spice on the nose while the fruit flavours are redolent of sweet and juicy black raspberry, Bing cherry and mulberry. There are also nuances of black licorice and espresso roast lurking here. The balanced finish is fruit forward and friendly. Pair with beef daube. (VH)

Rhône Valley

Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2006
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $49.95 (070888) 15.3% alcohol
Enjoy a very pretty nose offering aromas of red plum and floral character with baking spice, vanilla, smoke and garrigue all adding complexity. The palate is full of supremely ripe fruit and when combined with the hefty alcohol gives the wine a somewhat sweet character—as far as dry red wines go. It’s very full bodied with soft acidity and deceptively big tannins that are resting beneathy the fruit. This will continue to drink nicely for at least a dozen years. The earlier it’s consumed, the more rare the grilled red meat will need to be. (MT)


Le Gravillas Gigondas 2006
AOC Gigondas $27.95 (078808) 15% alcohol
Just across the river from Châteauneuf-du-Pape lies the Gigondas region and the grape selection is often quite similar. This is complex stuff with dark fruit combining with cocoa, smoke and spice, as well as some herbal and leather notes. The wine is full bodied with a nice vein of acidity reducing the impact of the substantial tannin. It has good length and all the components to achieve optimal balance after about five years in the cellar. Firm cheese will help show off all the elements of this lovely wine. (MT)

Southwest

Château la Caminade Cahors 2005
AOC Cahors $18.95 (102954) 13.5% alcohol
This is tremendous value if you’re looking to start or augment your cellar. Made from 70% Malbec, 25% Merlot and 5% Tannat, this impressive red needs a few years to settle down but will be a whopper when it does. The nose combines black cherry, blueberry and raspberry fruit with pepper, vanilla and milk chocolate aromas. The significant tannin seems soft initially but builds in time to coat the tongue and create a firm, chewy mouth feel. This is full bodied, rich and lengthy and will reward patient cellaring of four to six years. Pair with rare filet mignon. (MT)

Germany: White Wine

P.S. Biumler Becker Erber Riesling Auslese 2001
QmP Wehlener Sonnenuhr $21.95 (114769) 8% alcohol
2001 might not seem that long ago, but this wine is now 8 years old. It’s developed a lot of the complexity good German Rieslings can achieve with bottle age. A really lovely mineral profile, bordering on petrol, grabs your attention before lime and pear fruit appear. White flowers round out the nose, and each element takes centre stage at different times when nosing the wine. This is medium sweet in the mouth with gorgeous balance achieved through mouth-watering acidity. All of this on a featherweight frame that boasts a finish approaching one minute in duration. No food here, please, enjoy on its own. (MT)

Italy: Red Wine

Friuli

Di Lenardo Refosco 2007
DOC Friuli, Grave $15.95 (117150) 13% alcohol
This wine has a dark, brooding character featuring black fruit, bitter chocolate, coffee, earthiness and minerality. It’s well structured with a solid seam of acidity playing off ripe tannin, balancing off the fruit very nicely. This medium-bodied wine will be just the thing to complement a pasta dish with beef tenderloin and wild mushrooms in a gorgonzola sauce. Great value. (MT)

Piedmont

La Vigna Vecchia Barbera d’Asti 2005
DOC $15.95 (106278) 13.5% alcohol
This fruit-forward version offers plentiful amounts of candied red and black cherry with sweet spicy notes underneath. The palate is ripe with lively acidity and also a nice tannic core, combining to create exceptional balance. This light- to medium-bodied wine will pair wonderfully with pepper-crusted seared tuna. (MT)

Tuscany

Castellani Vignette Campomaggio Rosso 2003
IGT Toscana $22.95 (072371)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This 'Super Tuscan' is 85% Sangiovese blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. It's round and fleshy on the palate with exuberant aromas and flavours—ripe Bing cherry, black currant and loads of spice. Medium to full bodied with a ripe tannin structure, the finish is redolent of cassis and black licorice. Perfect to cellar short term with optimum drinking now to 2012 or you can pop the cork now and serve beside osso bucco. (VH)


Fattoria Aldobrandesca Vie Cave 2006
IGT Maremma Toscana $24.95 (101618) 14% alcohol
The wine is unusual in more than name as it’s made from Malbec, a bit of a rarity in Tuscany. True to form, powerful black plum aromas are at the fore with milk chocolate, cinnamon and floral notes all making an appearance. It has very good structure with refreshing acidity playing off lingering, mouth coating tannin. This is full bodied with a lingering finish. Although drinking well today, it will easily last another four years. Roasted beef dishes will do nicely. (MT)


Rocca Delle Macie ‘Sasyr’ Sangiovese/Syrah 2006
IGT Toscana $18.95 (068510) 13.5% alcohol
The nose here is fruit driven with blackberry, dark cherry and prune fruits dominant. A touch of vanilla and potpourri notes complement the aromatic profile. The wine is fruity and juicy in the mouth with very fine, persistent tannin creating balance. It’s medium bodied and best enjoyed over the next two years alongside gourmet pizza with smoked sausage. (MT)


Tenuta di Castelgiocondo Lamaione 2005
IGT Toscana $49.95 (978411) 14% alcohol
Made from 100% Merlot, this vineyard-specific wine has an expressive nose evoking plum fruit, black pepper, tobacco leaf and milk chocolate aromas. The palate is driven by a ripe, syrupy fruit character and is balanced by significant tannin creating a chewy texture. It’s a full-bodied wine that will really hit its stride in about two years and continue drinking well through 2016. Enjoy with grilled bison strip loin. (MT)

Spain: Red Wine

Bodegas Muga ‘Reserva’ 2004
DOCa Rioja $24.95 (177345) 14% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This is a gargantuan effort that will reward careful cellaring (cool and dark) by delivering a richly concentrated wine that will drink well 2011 to 2017. It’s a blend—70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha and a 10% mix of Mazuelo and Graciano—that offers a lifted nose of smoky oak and dark berries. It’s richly textured and full of flavour with gobs of ripe briary berry and sweet warm (14% alcohol) cherry fruit. There’s excellent balance from moderating acidity and a grippy tannin structure. It offers good value for those with patience. This is a ‘Vintages Essentials’ product—always available in selected LCBO stores. (VH)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: May, 2009

Keltie Brook Merlot 2004
North Coast, California $23.95 (104141) 13.5% alcohol
This is a gorgeous Merlot from MacRostie Winery and Vineyards. This wine has a big fruit nose with layers of musty earth and a touch of spice. It’s silky smooth on the palate with a medium body and flavours of chocolate and blackberry jam. There are still tannins to spare, if you want to cellar this for a few more years, but the tannins are beautifully integrated making this wine ready to drink right now. Enjoy it with a medium-rare pepper steak. (DI)


Cuvaison Chardonnay 2007
Carneros, Napa Valley, California $25.95 (988261) 14.5% alcohol
Here’s an attractive Chardonnay from one of the cooler climate regions of California. This wine has a predominant nose of smoked oyster with layers of tropical fruit. It’s clean and crisp on the palate with a medium body, good acidity for balance and flavours of apple and pineapple. Try this wine with grilled Cornish hen. (DI)


Cuvaison Pinot Noir 2006
Carneros, Napa Valley, California $42.95 (714519) 14.5% alcohol
This wine hits you right away with a big nose of cherry and spice with an added touch of dry leaves and barnyard. It’s a bit more reserved on the palate with red jammy flavours supported by a medium body, medium acidity, and medium tannin. You could put this in the cellar for a year or two, but why not pull it out this fall and have it with your Thanksgiving turkey. (DI)
Vintages Release: June, 2009

Clay Station Viognier 2007
Lodi, California $17.95 (25411)
This is a stand-out among Viogniers tasted and was a double-gold winner at the 2008 California State Fair. It has a very expressive nose of nectar, honeysuckle, pear and peach. On the palate it’s medium bodied with crisp acidity and loads of fruit flavour. All this flavour and value is partially explained by their free-draining soils, sustainable viticulture practices and unique terroir—set high above the valley floor with cooling evening breezes. Enjoy with steamed white fish with a mango salsa. (DI)


Gnarly Head ‘Old Vines’ Zinfandel 2007
Lodi, California $17.95 (678698) 14.5% alcohol
The old "gnarly" vines that grow the fruit for this wine are free standing and head-trained (as opposed to growing on a trellis) and must therefore be harvested by hand. This helps deliver a wine with a complex nose of musty earth, dry leaves, smoke and vanilla. On the palate it has a full body, lots of fruit, tart acidity and alcohol. It's a real mouthful that leaves a long lingering pie cherry finish. A great BBQ wine that is also great value. (DI)

Vintages Release: July, 2009

Ravenswood ‘Lodi’ Zinfandel 2006
Lodi, California $22.95 14.5% alcohol
This wine is part of Ravenswood’s "County Series" and is 84% Zinfandel with Petite Sirah making up the bulk of the difference. It gives off muted smoke, cedar with spicy notes on the nose exploding with sour cherry in the mouth. The medium tannins and medium length finish make this a very approachable wine that would be well matched with peppered meat loaf. (DI)


DeLoach ‘Russian River Valley’ Pinot Noir 2007
Russian River Valley, California $29.95 14.5% alcohol
This is a nicely structured light-bodied Pinot with a light raspberry nose. You’ll find medium tannin and tart acidity. Flavours of cherry and raspberry linger in a pleasantly mouthwatering long finish. The fruit was hand picked then fermented in small open-top wooden vats and aged in French oak. Enjoy with pork tenderloin or duck. (DI)


Cline 'los carneros' Viognier 2007
Carneros, California $14.95 14% alcohol
This wine has a very pleasant nose of orange blossoms, honey and pear. The pear continues right through to the finish, and is balanced by a dry and crisp acidity and a medium-to-full body. The grapes were handpicked and de-stemmed without being crushed and the wine is unoaked—all showcasing the pure fruit flavours. Enjoy with Asian dishes such as Thai green curry. (DI)

Vintages Release: Summer, 2009

Loredona Syrah Rosé 2007
California $TBD
This is a definite summer-sipper, but without the cloying sweetness of some California rosés. Instead, you get lots of strawberry on the nose and the palate, a medium-to-light body, crisp acidity and just a hint of sweetness. Drink this on the back deck with some savoury hors d'oeuvres while firing up the grill at your summer BBQ party. (DI)


Z52 'Agnes Vineyard Old Vines’ Zinfandel 2005
Lodi, California $28.95 14.9% alcohol
This wine is big! There’s an expressive nose of plum and blackberry with hints of spice. On the palate the acidity starts low giving you the full impact of the big chewy fruit and the full bodied style. It then turns it on to lead you to a balanced tart finish. Ever present and underneath is the big alcohol that simply cannot be ignored. Enjoy it with a slab-sized serving of BBQ ribs. (DI)

New in Vintages

Ravenswood ‘Vintners Blend’ Zinfandel 2006
California $17.95 (359257) 13.5% alcohol
If it’s been a couple of years since you’ve tasted this wine, you’ll be happy to re-discover it. Strawberry pie and jam aromas leap out of the glass with cinnamon spice and a healthy dose of vanilla and milk chocolate. On the palate it’s juicy before persistent, lingering tannin provides plenty of structure. This is medium in body, not nearly as heavy as some Californian Zinfandels, which will make it more versatile at your table. Grilled lamb burgers would be great. This is a Vintages Essentials product, always available in select stores. (MT)

New in General List

Peninsula Ridge Merlot 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (61101) 13% alcohol
This is an absolute stunner at this price point—and even better, it’s an Ontario red. The nose offers good intensity of dark plum, black cherry and even raisin fruit with subtle notes of vanilla and violets. The palate is juicy initially with lively acidity then silky persistent tannin appears on the mid palate giving plenty of structure and balance. This medium-bodied Merlot has a long finish showcasing plenty of dark fruit. Enjoy with venison stew. (MT)


Nobilo ‘Monkey Bay’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Marlborough, New Zealand $14.95 (620062) 13% alcohol
Pleasant aromas include kiwi, jack fruit and tangerine peel with fresh grass and a touch of minerality. This is lively in the mouth but not at all tart with plenty of fruit to balance the mouth watering acidity. Medium in body with a nice finish, this is great value for New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Pair with a salad of heirloom tomatoes and soft goat cheese. (MT)

New in Ontario Wineries

Pillitteri Estates ‘Reserve Bradshaw Bottle Blonde’ 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $23 12.5% alcohol
This is a very interesting blend of Semillon (56%) with oaked Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc, Sur Lie Chardonnay and Riesling. The Semillon is immediately apparent with a nice beeswax character followed by lemon and floral notes. There’s a touch of tree fruit, a splash of vanilla and the overall aromatic impression is somewhat floral and sweet. In the mouth this feels ever so slightly off-dry with and crisp acidity creating a zingy mouth feel. This medium-bodied white is lively yet also sports a creamy texture on the mid palate, creating good depth. It has a clean, long finish and will pair well with seared scallops or poached shrimp. Order direct from Pillitteri. (MT)


Pillitteri Estates Chardonnay ‘Sur Lie’ 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15 12.5% alcohol
The benefits of Sur Lie aging are twofold—additional complexity without the added cost of oak barrel aging. This wine exhibits plenty of yeast aromatics alongside baked apple, grapefruit and a touch of cinnamon. It’s refreshing and medium-bodied with excellent structure and pleasing richness on the finish. Pair with roasted turkey or game bird. Order direct from Pillitteri. (MT)


Pillitteri Estates Sauvignon Blanc 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18 12% alcohol
The nose here features pink grapefruit with lemon, fresh grass and a subtle mineral note. Grapefruit and lime flavours greet the palate, which is lean, crisp and light bodied. There’s plenty more citrus on the finish, and this wine will work wonders with pan-fried trout in a lemon butter sauce. Order direct from Pillitteri. (MT)

Cheers, Mark, Dave and Vic

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desperate
	Represents a half star
	We both agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar