Winecurrent

March 28, 2009 Vintages Release

The wildly popular California Wine Fair is making its way across the country – visiting Ottawa, Toronto, Montréal, Québec City and Halifax.

Sample more than 350 wines from over 100 vintners for just one admission price. Open to the public, you must purchase tickets by phone or on-line as none are sold at the door.

Next up is Ottawa on Wednesday, April 1 and it’s a sell out every year. Tickets are $60.00 - only $55.00 to wine club members. Order by phone 905.336.8932 or 1.800.558.2675 or on-line www.calwine.ca.    

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter reviews begin with a feature on Tempting Tempranillo followed by a feature on Burgundy. The familiar country/region format follows in the 'Main Release' with wines reviewed in the order they appear in the Vintages Release brochure.

Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

  • Five wines that earned 4½ stars costing less than $19.95 each.
  • Three wines reaching the elusive 5 star plateau.
  • Finding Waldo — there are 2 wines earning 4 stars costing less than $14.00 each.
An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Tempting Tempranillo

The great red grape of Spain—Tempranillo—is often the dominant partner in Spanish blends, and for good reason. It combines the qualities of excellent structure by way of tannin and acidity with moderate alcohol levels. This makes it a versatile grape for pairing with food. You’ll find Tempranillo in many of Spain’s wine regions. It’s in Portugal, as well, known as Tinta Roriz, one of the premium Port grapes.

Rioja

Perhaps Spain’s most famous wine region, Rioja, has a loyal following the world over. Reds are dominated by Tempranillo, often blended with lesser portions of Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo. In the no- too-distant past the classic production method was very extensive oak aging leading to wines with a pronounced nutty, oaky (and often oxidized) character. Today’s wines are usually much more balanced between oak and fruit. The complexity isn’t compromised and the style is appreciated by a wider consumer base.

****1/2 drink or cellar
Lealtanza Crianza 2004
DOCa Rioja $19.95 (114835) 13.5% alcohol
This is a great value wine the Vintages panel has chosen as Wine of the Month. The nose is big and fruity with significant notes of tobacco and cigar box alongside black plum, cherry, vanilla, pepper and eucalyptus. The first impression in the mouth is somewhat soft with refreshing acidity. As the wine washes over the palate the tannins increase in impact. With its medium-bodied frame, this wine is relatively well balanced today and will reward three to five years cellaring. At this price, buy some for now and a whole lot more for down the road. Enjoy with any manner of roasted game. (MT)

**** drink or cellar
Campillo ‘Campillo Reserva’ 2002
DOCa Rioja $23.95 (094870) 13.5% alcohol
Sour cherry fruits and earthy notes are the dominant aromas here, followed by intriguing aromas of espresso and toasted oak. Expect lively acidity to awaken your palate with substantial tannin leaving a lasting impression. This is quintessential Rioja—lots of structure on a medium-bodied frame. You could enjoy it today with rare red meats, but may prefer to cellar for two to four years and open it up alongside braised lamb. (MT)

***** drink or cellar
Marqués de Cáceres ‘Gran Reserva’ 2001
DOCa Rioja $39.95 (976670) 14% alcohol
This gorgeous offering blends 85% Tempranillo with Garnacha and Graciano. The nose features sour cherry and earth aromatics with vanilla and savoury spice undertones. You might also notice a touch of cola on the nose that adds to the complexity. The palate is spicy with lively acidity, belying the wine’s age, and firm tannin that are beginning to resolve nicely. All this on a medium- bodied frame equates to exceptional balance. The complex flavours linger forever, further pointing to this as an exceptional wine. Try with roasted beef or game or mild, firm cheese and let the wine shine. (MT)

**** drink or cellar
Palacios Remondo ‘La Vendimia’ 2007
DOCa Rioja $15.95 (674564) 14% alcohol
Here’s a 50-50 blend of Tempranillo and Garnacha in a more New World style than many Rioja. The result is quite impressive. Expect a fruit forward style with almost-candied plum and raspberry aromatics combined with subtle oak and herbal notes. Refreshing acidity combines with persistent refined tannin to create great balance. Even though it’s slightly fuller bodied, boasting 14% alcohol, all elements are in harmony. This is a great match with seared duck breast in a cherry glaze. (MT)

Ribera del Duero

This region is located just slightly to the west of Rioja, in the north central area of Spain. The region is known for quality reds made predominantly from Tempranillo, but often in a more New World style than from the Rioja district. It also houses the most famous of all Spanish wines – Vega Sicilia.

**** drink now
Bodegas de Los Rios ‘Prieto Prios Masiumus Roble’ 2006
DO Ribera del Duero $15.95 (103432) 13.5% alcohol
This 100% Tempranillo is from forty-year-old vines. The nose is very impressive with intense aromas of cocoa, espresso and toast followed by bitter chocolate, dark plum and a more subtle earthy tone. Fruit flavours become more prominent on the palate with refreshing acidity and lingering tannin carrying the fruit and creating deft balance. This is medium bodied sporting good complexity and length. Stock up—you won’t find too many reds this complex at this price. (MT)

Toro

Toro is located to the west of Ribero del Duero, near Portugal, also in the northern part of the Spain. It’s a warm region and until recently has been known for producing value-driven, fruit forward bold reds. The indigenous red grape, Tinta de Toro (a local clone of Tempranillo), reigns supreme. As the region becomes more recognized, we’re seeing premium products from this area.

***** cellar
Pintia 2005
DO Toro $64.95 (022954) 15% alcohol
This house is owned by Vega Sicilia, a producer of iconic Spanish wine for generations. Winston Churchill was a fan of some of their top end products. This Pintia offers a concentrated, fruit forward nose of cassis, blueberry and plum with plenty of vanilla, milk chocolate and smoky character. Savoury spice rounds out the aromatics. Made from 100% Tinta de Toro, this wine is true to form with a great core of acidity, but the structure now is dominated by mouth-coating tannin. It has a huge presence in the mouth with its full body and lingering fruit flavor. It needs at least five years cellaring to become a great choice for grilled filet mignon. (MT)

Modern Faces of Burgundy

**** drink or cellar
Château de Maligny ‘Fourchaume’ Chablis 1er Cru 2007
AOC Chablis $34.95 (718288) 12.5% alcohol
This Chablis has a nose featuring citrus and green apples with pronounced smoke and peat notes. Mineral flavours appear on the palate, which is quite dry and very typical of the style. With its light body and firm acidity this wine demands food—a meal of pan seared, crispy trout would do quite nicely. (MT)

**** drink now
Nicolas Potel ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Meursault 2005
AOC Meursault $49.95 (067850) 13% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) From the Burgundy region that arguably sets the bench mark for world class Chardonnay with its Premiers Crus, this is a delicious offering. Nutty and vanilla aromas set the tone for this medium-bodied and graciously textured gem. Ripe pit fruit (peach and nectarine) pair nicely with the citrus notes on the palate and generous finish. This shows finesse, balance and good structure. Drinking well now and on to 2015. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Nicolas Potel ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Morey-Saint-Denis 2005
AOC Morey-Saint-Denis $49.95 (110403) 13% alcohol
The nose shows red cherry, mushroom and forest floor nuances along with sweet spice and a pleasant floral side. It’s quite pretty aromatically, but gets a touch firmer on the palate. A solid core of acidity combines with firm but resolving tannin that lend good structure to this Pinot. It’s medium bodied and a little young, needing a few years before the tannin softens and ideal balance is achieved. You could drink it today with very rare red meat or let it settle for two to three years and enjoy with slow roasted duck breast. (MT)

***1/2 drink now
Chartron & Trébuchet Saint-Romain ‘Blanc’ 2006
AOC Saint-Romain $24.95 (110296) 13% alcohol
Coming from a slightly lesser-known appellation, it offers a lot for the price. Tinned pineapple and yellow apple form the fruit aromas. They’re augmented by notes of vanilla, smoke and cream. The refreshing acidity comes as a bit of a surprise based on the aromatic profile, but certainly awakens the palate and helps carry the flavours through to a lengthy finish. It’s medium in body and a touch lean, but this will just make it more versatile at your table. Cornish Hen, guinea fowl, or most manner of poultry will pair nicely. (MT)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine

**** drink or cellar
Gonzalez Byass ‘Nectar Pedro Ximenez Dulce’ Sherry
DO Jerez, Spain $18.95 (087577) 15.5% alcohol
Dessert-style sherries are a must-try for anyone who hasn’t experienced one. This is no exception with it’s dazzling aromatics of toffee, molasses and caramelized sugar. With a significantly nutty side to the nose, this also smells like crème brulée in a glass. It’s quite sweet, has a viscous texture, is full bodied and has a long flavourful finish. Pair with rich desserts, like homemade butter tarts. (MT)

Dessert Wine

***1/2 drink now
Samos Vin Doux 2007
AOC, Greece $9.95 (106658) 375 mL 15% alcohol
This aromatic dessert wine is made entirely from the Muscat grape. It shows a floral character with peach, notes of buckwheat honey and tea. Although quite sweet, it still carries a nice vein of acidity, helping to maintain freshness in the mouth. It’s very versatile when served after dinner with strong firm cheeses or white chocolate-based desserts. This lovely wine offers great value. (MT)

Champagne

**** drink now
Tarlant ‘Rosé Brut’ Champagne
AOC Champagne $59.95 (664680) 12% alcohol
Combine the colour pink with bubbles and most people are on board. This non-vintage Champagne has an intriguing nose of strawberries enveloped in a significant amount of toast, brioche and yeast. It features a creamy mid-palate texture common to fine Champagne along with a very good presence and soft mouth feel. It’s medium-bodied—serve as an aperitif or with a main course of poultry or veal. (MT)

Canada: White Wine

**** drink now
Colio ‘CEV’ Chardonnay Musqué 2007
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $15.55 (116509) 12.4% alcohol
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This lives up to it’s breeding—it’s an aromatic clone of Chardonnay—with highly perfumed orange blossom, spice box and honey aromas. It’s medium bodied and fully textured, almost creamy, with citrus, ripe yellow peach and cantaloupe flavours. It’s zesty, crisp and clean on the medium-length perfectly balanced finish. Pair this with roast chicken with dried fruit stuffing or pan-seared white fish. (VH)

**** drink now
Colio ‘CEV’ Gewűrztraminer 2007
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $15.50 (432104) 12% alcohol
This wine has all of the hallmarks of Gewűrztraminer except for that slightly bitter finish one often finds. It has a lot of aromatic finesse with notes of rose petal, orange blossom and honeyed peach. The wine is soft in acidity which leads to an oily, somewhat fat feel in the mouth—reminiscent of an Alsace wine. With its medium body and great style, this should be well chilled and enjoyed alongside California rolls. (MT)

***1/2 drink now
Mission Hill ‘Family Estate Reserve’ Sauvignon Blanc 2006
VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $19.95 (057430) 12% alcohol
Although this may not be the most typical style of Sauvignon Blanc, it’s quite a pleasant drink. Expect hay and mint aromas combined with pink grapefruit, apricot and a touch of honey. In the mouth, lively acidity sustains the fruit flavours on a light-bodied frame with all elements in good balance. It has good aromatic intensity and a nice presence on the palate. This versatile wine does nicely as an aperitif or with an appetizer of poached shrimp. (MT)

USA: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Clos du Val Chardonnay 2006
Carneros, Napa Valley $29.95 (297499) 13.5% alcohol
This is a well-made, oaked Chardonnay with good aromatic balance between the fruit and oak. Butterscotch, vanilla and coconut scents mingle pleasantly amongst pineapple, pear and a touch of spice. It’s medium bodied with a soft texture and has an excellent finish relaying the oak aromas. This is a nice choice for soft-shell crab. (MT)

***1/2 drink now
Silverado Vineyards ‘Miller Ranch’ Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Napa Valley $27.95 (001644) 14.5% alcohol
This is full bodied, even for Napa Sauvignon Blanc. There’s a boozy character to the aromas along with peach, grapefruit, fresh grass and menthol notes. Moderate acidity combines with significant alcohol to create a slightly prickly mouth feel and the flavours linger nicely on the finish. Best enjoyed young—over the next year or so. (MT)

USA: Red Wine

****1/2 drink now
‘A By’ Acacia Pinot Noir 2007
California $19.95 (118927) 13.5% alcohol
This is an extremely well-priced Californian Pinot Noir that packs a lot into the bottle. The nose is lovely with red cherry and strawberry fruit tinged with earthy aromas so typical of the grape. Vibrant acidity creates a lighter feel in the mouth than the alcohol suggests and fine lingering tannin supports the copious fruit flavours. It’s superbly balanced and has very nice length. Take it to your favourite BYO restaurant; it’s a solid match for main courses ranging from duck through poultry and firm fish. (MT)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cline ‘Ancient Vines’ Carignane 2007
Contra Costa County $23.95 (032177) 15% alcohol
This is great stuff from a very consistent producer. The concentrated nose is full of blueberry fruit along with black pepper, floral and smoky nuances. The ripe fruit flavours are enhanced by savoury spice and more smoky notes. It’s full bodied, has a good core of acidity and ripe firm tannin. Enjoy tonight with rare steak or cellar for two years allowing further development. (MT)

**** drink or cellar
Emmolo Merlot 2005
Napa Valley $38.95 (096024) 14.1% alcohol
This family-run winery dates to 1923. Despite considerable growth, their mandate is still to approach wine production as a small family business. There’s copious fruit aromas on the nose of this wine—cassis, blueberry and plum—alongside pepper and toast. Refreshing acidity and big ripe tannin create good balance. This is full-bodied, well-structured Californian Merlot. It’s just the thing for grilled Bison tenderloin. (MT)

**** drink or cellar
Ridge ‘Lytton Springs’ 2006
Dry Creek Valley $58.95 (982413) 14.7% alcohol
There’s a big difference between entry level Californian Zinfandel and premium products like this, both in balance and structure. This blend—80% Zinfandel, 16% Petite Sirah, 4% Carignane—is big from start to finish. It opens with strawberry jam and cassis aromas, followed closely by notes of pepper, vanilla and violets. With its juicy acidity and soft persistent tannins this balanced full-bodied beauty has all the stuffing to drink well into 2015. Crack it open with a hefty chunk of venison in wild berry compote. (MT)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Sebastiani Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Alexander Valley $39.95 (655506) 14.2% alcohol
Sebestiani is the oldest continuously family-owned winery in Sonoma with a history dating to 1825 and is in control of some of the oldest vineyard sites in Northern California. This rich Cabernet is blended with 14% Merlot, adding to the complexity. It features cassis and black pepper aromatics with pleasant notes of earth and toasted oak. It’s beautifully balanced with significant very ripe tannin to offset the plentiful fruit. A full-bodied style equally comfortable tonight and over the next five years. This solid effort should be enjoyed with a very fine cut of grilled beef. (MT)

Argentina: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Alamos Torrontés 2007
Salta $13.95 (081539) 13% alcohol
Overshadowed by its big red grape brother Malbec, Torrontés is Argentina’s signature white grape and can be very expressive. This one has an explosive nose of fresh flowers and tangerine fruit with an aromatic profile not unlike Muscat. It carries moderate acidity on its medium-bodied frame creating a nice round and soft feel in the mouth. This wine smells and drinks like spring—enjoy with freshly shucked oysters. At this price, pick up more than one. (MT)

Argentina: Red Wine

**** drink now
Humberto Canale Estate Merlot 2007
Rio Negro, Patagonia, Argentina (94326) $15.95
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This is hand-picked 100% Merlot from one of the world’s most southerly wine regions. Look for expressive and concentrated flavours of ripe red pie cherry, juicy red raspberry and red currant. It’s full flavoured, medium weight and generously textured with a delightfully lengthy aftertaste that’s redolent of plum compote and blueberry pie. With just a hint of oak and supple tannin, this is ready to drink now, either on its own or alongside braised short ribs. (VH)

Chile: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Casa Lapostolle Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Rapel Valley $13.95 (396994) 13.5% alcohol
Chile is making quite a reputation for itself as a producer of well-crafted, value-driven wines from Sauvignon Blanc. This features a big herbal nose (asparagus and grass) more reminiscent of a New Zealand style. There are bright lemon, green melon and slate notes that round out the aromas to create a very attractive profile. Racy acidity refreshes the palate leaving your mouth watering. This medium-bodied wine is pleasantly tart—it’ll really shine with the right food. Pair this with a salad of mixed greens and fresh goats cheese under mild vinaigrette. (MT)

Chile: Red Wine

****  drink or cellar
Concha Y Toro ‘Terrunyo’ Carmenère 2005
Cachapoal Valley $29.95 (562892) 14.5% alcohol
Similar to Zinfandel, there’s a marked difference between an entry level Carmenère and the more serious example we have here. There’s plenty to occupy your olfactory senses beginning with a smoky, meaty character followed by dark fruit, fig, pepper and earthy notes. The wine starts soft, but surprisingly solid tannin builds gradually creating a very nice texture. It’s full bodied, full of flavor and quite rich overall. Enjoy with roast beef, both now and over the next five years. (MT)

Australia: White Wine

**** drink now
Stella Bella Chardonnay 2007
Margaret River, Western Australia $21.95 (102061) 13% alcohol
Producing just a fraction of Australia’s wine, W.A. is responsible for a significant portion of its premium products. One smell of this and you’ll know it’s a quality Aussie, oaked Chardonnay. Tropical fruit aromas, especially bananas, are joined by oak influence—vanilla, caramel and butterscotch. A touch of butter rounds out the aromas. Medium to high levels of acidity create a refreshing mouth feel and help sustain the fruit flavours. It’s nicely balanced, light-bodied and a good choice for lobster salad. (MT)

**** drink now
Sticks Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Yarra Valley Victoria $17.95 (109363) 11.5% alcohol
The Yarra Valley has garnered a reputation for quality wines from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay—grapes known to thrive in cooler climates. Sauvignon Blanc also does well in similar climactic conditions. This opens with a very nice nose of fresh herbs and grass with both citrus and stone fruit joining in. In the mouth it’s quite racy with high acidity. It’s also light-bodied with sufficient fruit to balance. It’ll make a superb aperitif, leaving your mouth watering for more. Good value. (MT)

****1/2 drink now
Wits End ‘Free Settler & The Convict’ Chardonnay/Viognier 2007
South Australia $13.95 (090928) 13% alcohol
This is an intriguing blend and manages to bring out the best in both varietals. Chardonnay isn’t overly aromatic, but the Viognier certainly helps to increase the intensity. Green apple and apricot fruits are joined by a really nice floral side and the wine just becomes more aromatic the longer it sits in the glass. It’s soft and fleshy with just enough acid for balance and boasts solid length. This medium-bodied wine is a perfect pairing poured with poached chicken or salmon. (MT)

Australia: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
De Bortoli ‘Windy Peak’ Pinot Noir 2008
Victoria $18.95 (048587) 13% alcohol
This Pinot sports good varietal character, namely sour cherry and dirt, with a touch of underbrush and sweet spice for good measure. Expect more typicity on the palate with vibrant acidity and a soft tannic structure. It’s medium-bodied and features plenty of cherry fruit on the finish. Enjoy with the usual pairings for approachable Pinot Noir—roasted duck, poached salmon, even braised veal. It’s difficult to find Pinot Noir this good at this price—don’t miss out. (MT)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ringbolt Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Margaret River $19.95 (606624) 14.5% alcohol
Here’s a Cabernet Sauvignon that drinks like it should cost a fair bit more. It features nice complexity on the nose with cassis and mocha mingling alongside soft herbal and earthy characters as well hints of vanilla and black pepper. It’s well structured with firm ultra ripe tannins creating great balance. This is a rich, full-bodied wine that is expressive from the first sniff through to the expansive finish. If you can get your hands on some Kangaroo filet,it’s a quality regional match, if not, a grilled pepper steak would do quite nicely. Very impressive. (MT)

New Zealand: White

***** drink now
Kim Crawford SP Spitfire Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Marlborough, South Island $24.95 (038240)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent at $29.95) This opens with extremely rich, powerful pungent aromas of spicy gooseberry and nettles. The flavours are equally intense—herbaceous citrus, spiced pear and tangy green apple. Sauvignon Blanc can produce vibrant fruit from new vines and many winemakers say you're lucky to ever get that quality from them again. This is a whopper of a wine you won't want to miss. (VH)

South Africa: White Wine

**** drink now
Cathedral Cellar Sauvignon Blanc 2008
WO Western Cape $11.95 (662718) 13% alcohol
There’s some really good value in Sauvignon Blanc from South Africa these days and this wine is a fine example. It has attractive aromas with soft herbal notes combining with grapefruit, peach and even some banana fruit—the herbal flavours become more prominent in the mouth. It carries moderate acidity on a medium-bodied frame. It’s refreshing but not tart, with great balance and nice length. The price-quality ratio is well in your favour. (MT)

***1/2 drink now
Kleine Zalze ‘Cellar Selection’ Sauvignon Blanc 2008
WO Western Cape $16.95 (096255) 13.5% alcohol
This has a little more tropical fruit than the previous wine with ripe banana and melon fruit to the fore. The herbaceous characteristics are showcased by fresh grass, green pea and green olive aromas. It’s quite zesty with nice balance and good length. It falls between medium and full- bodied—a delightful partner for roasted chicken in a dill cream sauce. (MT)

France: White Wine

Alsace

***1/2 drink now
Cleebourg ‘Prestige’ Pinot Gris 2006
AOC Alsace $17.95 (108530) 13% alcohol
Expect a perfumed nose of honey, apricot and peach with orange blossoms appearing after a few swirls. There’s nice aromatic intensity here, a nod to the style and region. In the mouth it has an almost creamy texture coupled with a pleasant tang of acidity. The result is good balance and a richly flavoured impression. It’s a touch light bodied and very pleasant. Will do nicely with seared scallops in a mango chutney. (MT)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Hugel Riesling 2007
AOC Alsace $24.95 (042101) 11.5% alcohol
The nose here is a bit tight, initially, but eventually opens to reveal citrus, lime blossom and a significant mineral note. It’s very light in body with racy acidity and a lean profile in the mouth. This is built as an aperitif and would be enjoyed before dinner. Give it a year or two to allow it to soften and the fruit to evolve. (MT)

Loire

**** drink or cellar
Domaine Serge Laloue Sancerre 2007
AOC Sancerre $23.95 (744086) 12.5% alcohol
This wine features Sancerre aromatics of citrus fruit, minerality and a subtle herbal note. Peach and pear fruit appear as it warms in the glass. The wine is zippy and clean with medium body and good length. There’s more than enough fruit to balance the acidity. It’s enjoyable today and will be over the next three years. Baked or pan-seared white fish in a butter sauce will show this wine off to its best advantage. (MT)

France: Red Wine

Bordeaux

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Haut-Sarpe 2004
AOC Saint-Émilion, Grand Cru Classé $49.95 (959882) 13% alcohol
This Bordeaux has a gorgeous nose brimming with fruit and complexity. Red berry aromas combine with sweet spice, new leather and notes of earth and toast. This is comprised mainly of Merlot and carries lively acidity with significant, very ripe tannin. It’s medium-bodied, long in finish and could use at least a couple of years to achieve optimum balance. It matches well with mild, firm cheese, but will also suit venison medallions in a wild mushroom sauce. (MT)

Rhône

***1/2 drink or cellar
Cellier des Dauphins ‘Réserve Saint-Maurice’ 2007
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $14.95 (102970) 13.5% alcohol
Grenache is the dominant variety of this blend (65%) with Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault making up most of the balance. It has a pretty nose—strawberry and red cherry fruit up front followed by vanilla, sweet spice and a touch of forest floor complexity. There’s a nice seam of acidity with moderate tannin creating a slightly stemmy finish. If you’re drinking it tonight I’d suggest rare grilled steak, but if you’d prefer to age it a couple of years, it‘ll go nicely with slow-roasted pork tenderloin. (MT)

**** cellar
Cuvée du Vatican Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2006
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $37.95 (719120) 14.5% alcohol
This is a more than a fair price for what’s in the bottle. Red cherry and dark plum are the dominant fruit aromas with tobacco, savoury spice and smoky nuances filling in the picture. In the mouth there’s excellent structure with good acidity offset by solid tannin. Cellar for two to three years to let those tannins calm down and then enjoy with cocoa-dusted duck breast. (MT)

Italy: White Wine

Campania

**** drink now
Torre Varano Taburno Falanghina 2007
DOC Taburno $16.95 (106351) 13.5% alcohol
Don’t worry about the pronunciation—because of it there’ll be some left on the shelves when you go. Falanghina is a grape native to the region of Campania and this is a lovely expression of it. The nose is divine with apricot and tangerine fruit, sweet spice, a gentle minerality, as well as a subtle floral side. Refreshing acidity combines with its medium body to give the wine a tangy mouth feel and it finishes quite clean with a relay of the initial mineral character. Pair it with pan-fried rainbow trout in a sauce using this wine. (MT)

Veneto

**** drink now
Pieropan Soave Classico 2007
DOC $19.95 (946848) 12% alcohol
Soave is making a comeback and it’s not all the value-priced innocuous wine that has crammed shelves in the past. The aromas here combine citrus and peach fruit with straw, wax and a touch of smoke creating a very intriguing profile. Mineral flavours arrive on the clean and zesty palate. This light-bodied wine has good texture in the mouth and will make an excellent aperitif as well as a good partner for mild cheeses. (MT)

Italy: Red Wine

Piedmont

**** cellar
Marcarin Barolo ‘La Serra’ 2004
DOCG Barolo $64.95 (007807) 14% alcohol
Here’s a quality candidate for your cellar. It evokes those sought-after Barolo aromas—tar, truffles, earth and violets that are wrapped up with red cherry fruit character. It does feature great acidity, but the acids are overwhelmed at present by the tannic structure which is quite substantial. It’s medium to full bodied and needs time for the tannins to be tamed. The good news is by the time it’s ready to drink, the aromas will become even more complex. Save it until 2015 and drink through 2020. (MT)

Tuscany

****1/2 cellar
Luce Della Vite La Vite Lucente 2006
IGT Toscana $39.95 (747030) 750 mL and $89.95 (979062) 1500 mL 14% alcohol
This is serious wine and seriously good for the price. It’s a blend of 50% Merlot, 35% Sangiovese and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. The expressive nose showcases ripe black cherry fruit with violet, red licorice, a touch of earth and a generous helping of oak. This is full bodied with plenty of structure from a nice core of acidity and substantial tannin. It needs a few years to settle down, but all the ingredients are in place for it to age quite gracefully. Give it until 2014 and enjoy for six more years after that. Osso Bucco pairs perfectly. (MT)

**** cellar
Marchesi de’Frescobaldi Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino 2003
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $54.95 (650432) 13.5% alcohol
With a nose of red plum, cherry, licorice and black pepper, this wine has quite a pretty aromatic profile. It’s a tad more aggressive on the palate with big robust tannins and plenty of acidity to offset the fruit. There are good fruit relays in the mouth along with a touch of milk chocolate. It’s medium-full in body and needs at least a couple of years before being approachable. Give it until 2012 before pairing with rare-seared duck breast. (MT)

**** drink or cellar
Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto 2006
IGT Toscana $64.95 (072439) 13.5% alcohol
Here we have a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese and although pricey, this wine packs an impressive punch. Initially, it comes across as a fruit bomb with a super-ripe blueberry fruit, cassis and kirsch character. In time, milk chocolate and smoke nuances waft from the glass. It’s equally complex on the palate, starting off juicy from the acidity then becoming quite dry with mouth-coating tannin appearing on the finish. It’s medium bodied with great length and could be enjoyed today. However, it will be much nicer given about four years. Firm cheese will do nicely. (MT)

Currently in Vintages

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château du Vieux Parc ‘La Sélection’ 2005
AOC Corbieres, France $19.95 (104745) 14% alcohol
This delicious number combines Carignane, Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre. The nose is both fruit forward and complex. It opens with copious amounts of ripe dark plum and black berry fruit aromas. Next up are notes of smoke and garrigue, roast coffee and milk chocolate along with red licorice and wild flowers. In the mouth there’s juicy acidity and satiny, fine-grained tannins that create good balance. It’s full bodied with a long and rich fruity finish. Pair with firm mild cheese or sip on its own. (MT)

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**** drink now
Sonoma Vineyards Chardonnay 2006
Sonoma County California $16.95 (60624) 13.8% alcohol
This unoaked Chardonnay offers very good value. It features plenty of fruit—mainly melon and yellow apple—with gentle floral notes. In the mouth it’s refreshing without being tart and is wonderfully balanced. With medium body and good depth on the finish, this will be a great companion for baked tilapia with fresh fruit compote. This offers good value. (MT)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Sonoma Vineyards Merlot 2005
Sonoma County California $16.95 (60632) 13.8% alcohol
Initially, this smells a little more like an ‘Old World’ Merlot than one made in California. It opens with pronounced herbal and smoky aromas before dark plum and red berry fruit appear. Roasted coffee and vanilla notes are indicative of the wine’s oak treatment. It features a focused structure with a good core of acidity underneath fine-grained tannin. This medium-bodied Merlot would suit braised leg of lamb in rosemary jus. (MT)

Cheers, Mark and Vic

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 starsWines of excellence
3 starsWines well worth trying
2  starsWines below average, but drinkable
1 starWines better avoided, unless desperate
half starRepresents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar