Winecurrent

November 22, 2008 Vintages Release

Winecurrent.com delivers a comprehensive and complete review of the Vintages Release wines tasted. No short cuts, no skimping, just honest and complete reviews of the wines that were made available for tasting at the LCBO, earning 3 stars and above, to help you make your selections. There are also many more wines reviewed that are accessible to Ontario residents through various channels and widely available in most provinces and many countries in the world.

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter reviews begin with an LCBO feature on Star Quality - Premium Wines. The familiar country/region format follows in the 'Main Release' with wines reviewed in the order they appear in the Vintages Release brochure.

We’re keenly interested in what you have to say! Winecurrent receives many comments on the newsletter; see the ‘What Our Subscribers Say’ on the www.winecurrent.com website. We’d like to publish those that reflect your thoughts. Please send them to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..

Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
  • The inimitable Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon was recently in Ontario showcasing an exciting array of wines, many are reviewed in Consignment Wine.
  • Argentina comes up big with incredible value-buy reds both within and following the Main Release.
  • Finding Waldo – There’s a 4 ½ star red under $12 and a 4 ½ star white under $11 following the Main Release.
An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Star Quality: Premium White

**** drink now
Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Marlborough, South Island $34.95 (304469)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Probably the world's most famous Sauvignon Blanc; it was the trail blazer for New Zealand's incredible surge onto the world wine stage. Grassy, with pungent nettles and spice on the nose, it provides a nicely textured and full-flavoured attack on the palate, primarily from pineapple, gooseberry and melon. Well balanced and delivering a zesty finish; it pairs well with pan-seared freshwater fish. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cave Spring CSV Riesling 2006
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (566026)
The aromas are intense and tantalizing—mineral, slate and tree fruit. The palate is treated to a gusher of succulent and racy fruit with lemon-lime, ripe pineapple and a salad bowl of tropical fruit flavours to the fore. It’s off-dry and finishes lengthy and lip-smacking good with a delightful sweet and tang sensation. Pair this with steamed lobster claws and pan-seared scallops sprinkled liberally with finely grated parmigiano reggiano over a bed of arugula. This offers good value. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Bouchard Père & Fils Meursault ‘Les Clous’ 2006
AOC Meursault, Burgundy, France $52.95 (0661322)
This features a subtle nose of lime, mineral, green apple, popcorn and hazelnut with a silky textured palate. Sweet oak flavours make an appearance on the full-bodied palate with 13.5% alcohol, lean-structured acidity and followed by a long finish. A very classic white Burgundy with great finesse and balance. Avoid the temptation to open this bottle now as it will cellar well and develop a little more roundness and depth. (LG)

Star Quality: Premium Red

California

**** drink now
Beringer ‘Howell Mountain Bancroft Ranch’ Merlot 1996
Napa Valley $98.95 (0340497)
In its prime, this deep brick-coloured wine shows off with notes of cassis, mulberry, cherry, game, vanilla and mint. This is dry and full bodied with 14.1% alcohol, while the tannins have relaxed to uncover an approachable, nicely balanced offering. This is also throwing some sediment so you’ll probably want to decant this one just prior to drinking. This would go well with rosemary-garlic pork tenderloin with sweet-and-sour prunes. (LG)

****1/2 cellar
Duckhorn Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Napa Valley $78.95 (024190)
This elegant red blend—87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc—that delivers on the nose and palate. Look for toast and vanillin aromas—27 months in oak—plus minty chocolate and dark berry flavours on a fairly tannic, medium-bodied and nicely textured frame. The balanced, dry and racy finish layers on a healthy dollop of moderating cranberry and pie cherry flavours. Drink 2011 to 2018 alongside grilled strip loin. (VH)

Australia

****1/2 cellar
Hazyblur Shiraz 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $77.95 (076141)
This will set hearts a-pounding for fans of big bold Barossa Shiraz. Rich, complex and concentrated, this oozes and drips lifted aromas of savoury herbs and a boxful of spice followed by succulent bold flavours of black briary berry, dark juicy cherry and ripe mulberry. It’s medium to full bodied, generously textured (almost creamy) and laden with perceptible tannin. The finish is fruity and lingering. Drink 2011 to 2020 alongside a garlic and spice, dry-rubbed and grilled, thick steak. (VH)

***** cellar
Wolf Blass ‘Black Label’ Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec 2004
South Australia $98.95 (960468)
Found under the ‘Distinguished’ category of Australia’s respected Langton’s Classification, this has also won Australia’s highest honour for a one-year-old red wine, ‘The Jimmy Watson Trophy’, four times. Rich toasty oak and dark berry fruit aromas rip off the glass of this behometh. It’s full flavoured—sweet cassis, delectable boysenberry and ripe pomegranate—full bodied and generously textured. The finish is lengthy and chockfull of dark fruit flavour and racy tang. Drink 2012 to 2020 or longer. (VH)

Chile and Argentina

****1/2 drink or cellar
Altair Red 2004
Cachapoal Valley $64.95 (0038430)
It’s possible this bottle is as heavy empty as it is full. Despite the choice of packaging, the wine inside is excellent, with aromas of blueberry, mulberry, smoke, earth and more ripe black fruits. This is dry and full bodied with juicy acidity, 14.5% alcohol, smooth tannins and great concentration. (LG)

**** drink or cellar
Catena Alta Malbec 2005
Mendoza, Argentina $60.95 (0982355)
Apparently Nicolás Catena spent 15 years carrying out research in the vineyard and another 3 years of experimentation in the winery until he was satisfied enough to release the first Catena Malbec. Two years later in 1996, after identifying the best rows of Malbec in the Catena family’s vineyards, the first vintages of Catena Alta Malbec were made in minute quantities. This wine is a mix of a number of tiny, low-yielding plots. This is dry and full bodied with soft, velvety tannins and tons of sweet, juicy black fruit and vanilla. It has a substantial chewy/meaty texture and 13.5% alcohol with the potential to cellar for a few more years. The 2004 vintage of this wine actually took the top spot for the best wine to have with meat in the final of the ‘Malbec Made for Meat’ competition at the Gaucho Restaurant in Piccadilly. It also won the award for ‘Best with Lamb’, and the ‘Best with Beef’. I think they’re trying to give us a hint. (LG)

**** drink or cellar
Masi Tupungato Corbec Corvina/Malbec Appassimento 2006
La Arboleda, Mendoza $29.95 (0079095)
They had to come up with a new name for this unusual blend, which marries the unlikely partners of Italian Corvina and Malbec. Because that wasn’t different enough for them, they decided to make it in the appassimento fashion, which involves drying the grapes on mats for about six weeks, resulting in a more concentrated wine with lots of dried fruit aromas. This is dry and full bodied with velvety tannins, juicy acidity and notes of black fruit and herbs/garrigue. (LG)

France

****1/2 cellar
Château Taillefer 2005
AOC Pomerol $59.95 (0091413)
One of my favourites of this release, it’s a blend of 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc. The name is said to come from the iron, or ‘fer’ in French, in the soil of the property, which is owned by Catharine from the well-known Moueix family. On the nose it has notes of sweet vanilla, chocolate, blackberry pie, blueberries and cassis. It’s dry and full bodied with good acidity, and very silky tannins. (LG)

***** drink or cellar
La Croix de Beaucaillou 2005
AOC Saint-Julien $57.95 (0502054)
The second wine of Château Ducru Beaucaillou, this is a subtle and unassuming wine with a supple nose of red fruit and violets. Because of the 40% Merlot in the blend, it’s approachable and appeals to a wide range of palates. This is dry and medium to full bodied with 13% alcohol and super silky tannins tannins that easily glide over the palate. It’s a beautiful wine that deserves attention. Also a sleeper, it will develop over the next decade or more. (LG)

**** cellar
Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2006
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $61.95 (700922)
Distinctive ‘garrigue’ aromas—an amalgam of spices and herbs that grow wild in the area—along with dark berry fruit and black licorice waft from the glass of this muscular blend that’s primarily Grenache with a supporting cast of Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. Look for perceptible tannin that’s ably supported by expressive flavours of sweet cassis, ripe mulberry and spiced black plum. It’s weighty, but well balanced, with a drying finish. Drink 2012 to 2020. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine de la Vougeraie Gevrey-Chambertin ‘La Justice’ 2005
AOC Gevrey-Chambertin $61.95 (088740)
This showcases the stunning ’05 vintage in Burgundy with its expressive involved nose of red berry, mocha, toasty notes and earthiness along with fabulously rich flavours of ripe pomegranate, red currant and red pie cherry. It’s deftly balanced, very generously textured and delivers a fruity lingering aftertase with a refreshing snap of tang and zest. You wouldn’t go wrong taking this to the in-laws to match up to a festive bird, after an hour or two aeration / decant. (VH)

**** cellar
Domaine de la Vougeraie Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Les Evocelles’ 2005
AOC Gevrey-Chambertin $63.95 (088732)
This is a bit more earthy with an additional mineral component along with a more pronounced underlying stream of moderating acidity than ‘La Justice’. You’ll find earthiness and dusty slate on the nose with focused flavours of cranberry and rich Montmorency cherry on the palate. It finishes well balanced with loads of refreshing acidity. A bit austere at the moment, give it three years in the cellar and drink on to 2018. (VH)

Italy

****1/2 drink or cellar
Brigaldara Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2005
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico $50.95 (716050)
This is a gorgeous expression of the style and flavours of Amarone made in a traditional fastidious manner. Often the recipient of Gambero Rosso’s 3-glass award, this is rich, opulent and ready for the glass. Aromas and flavours of warm sweet black raspberry compote (16% alcohol), raisin and dried berry fruit are carried along on the most heavenly creamy texture and full-bodied frame. The finish is balanced, fruity, persistent and luxurious. Drink now to 2015. (VH)

Spain & Portugal

***** drink or cellar
Alion 2004
DO Ribera del Duero $80.95 (707166)
This makes the point that eight bottles of $10 wine is not always better value than one $80 wine. Vega Sicilia is one of most expensive and collectable wines in the world. They began this winery in 1991 to provide wine lovers with a ‘new world’ experience, but still made to the most exacting standards. Not wanting Alion to be considered a ‘second label’ they purchased and re-fitted a winery at a different site. They make only this single wine—100% Tempranillo; the fruit is hand picked and hand sorted, aged in 100% French oak and a fraction the price of the $300 and up Vega Sicilia. Expect aromas of toast, lilac, freshly picked sweet briary berry and earthy notes. The succulent rich flavours include kirsch liqueur, cherry clafouti and notes of licorice and tar. It’s fully textured, full bodied, has the oak fully integrated and sports a well-balanced and lingering finish of dark berry fruit. Drink 2011 to 2020. It’s a perfect gift, to yourself or others. (VH)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine

**** cellar
Quinta Vale D. Maria Vintage Port 2002
Portugal $64.95 (087585)
This is inky black in the glass, portending the rich and succulent explosion of fruit flavours including black Damson plum, cassis and dark sweet boysenberry. It’s full bodied and generously textured with a lively kick of zesty cherry and mixed spice on the lengthy finish. This pairs perfectly with hard aged cheese like Parmigiano Reggiano or cheddar, as well as rich sweet chocolate desserts. (VH)

Niagara: White

****1/2 drink or cellar
Flat Rock Cellars ‘Nadja’s Vineyard’ Riesling 2007
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (578625)
Look for expressive aromas of pungent petrol and mineral notes on this single-vineyard gem. There are flavours galore with tangy ripe lemon-lime citrus, white peach and yellow plum predominant. This is medium bodied, nicely textured and provides a delightful and lengthy finish that’s deftly balanced, dry, crisp and refreshing. Lovely quaffed on its own, it pairs well with pan-seared tilapia. (VH)

***** drink now
Stratus White 2005
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $44.00 (660704)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) A cornucopia of aromas—spice box and herbal notes, citrus and tree fruit—segue intense flavours of ripe yellow peach, tropical fruit and citrus that arrive in wave after delicious wave in this proprietary-blend white. It's full of flavour, nicely textured and provides a well-balanced, crisp, refreshing and lingering finish. Gorgeous when sipped on its own, it's also a natural pairing with mussels or pan-seared white fish under a drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)

Niagara: Red

****1/2 drink or cellar two glasses
Stratus Red 2005
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $44.00 (66072)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Lindsay loved this, as well. This is delicious and very approachable; it sports a plush texture, well-integrated oak and ripe supple tannin. Earthy, spicy and expressive on the nose, it provides a luscious wave of fruit on the mid palate—black currant, spicy black plum and ripe Bing cherry—and welcomed moderating tang and zest on the well-balanced and lingering finish. It's medium bodied, well structured and with enough oomph to provide enjoyable drinking now to 2014. Pair this with a dry-rubbed rack of lamb, grilled medium rare. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Stratus Wildass Red 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.00 (0086363)
As the name suggests, this is a fun wine. It’s a blend of Bordeaux grapes plus Gamay and Syrah. It’s medium ruby-brick in colour with an eclectic mix of aromas on the nose—cherry, leather, dill, red currant and savoury, meaty spice. Dry and medium to full bodied with balanced acidity, 12% alcohol, moderate tannins and a red fruit finish. This is the perfect wine to keep on hand over the holidays and will be popular with a wide variety of wine drinkers, from quaffers to connoisseurs. (LG)

California: White

****1/2 drink or cellar
Gallo Family ‘Laguna Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2005
Russian River Valley $29.95 (544981)
From a vineyard originally planted in the late 1800s, this consistently delivers great California Chardonnay. Binned apple, toasty notes and freshly baked bread aromas waft from the glass of this full-flavoured—tropical fruit and peach—and very generously textured, almost creamy, white wine. It’s medium bodied and well balanced with a generous finish of refreshing zest and tang. This will pour well with your festive bird or steamed lobster dipped in clarified butter. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Rodney Strong ‘Chalk Hill’ Chardonnay 2006
Sonoma County $22.95 (275552)
There’s a mélange of expressive aromas and flavours with spice box, toasty oak and tree fruit—green apple, yellow peach and ripe pear—predominant. It’s medium bodied, generously textured and delivers a lingering finish of crisp, dry and refreshing flavours. This is seeking a partner from the sea, try pan-seared scallop and prawn kebabs. (VH)

California: Red

*** drink now
Francis Coppola 'Silver Label' Pinot Noir 2006
Monterey County $27.95 (047720)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) If you don't like the characteristics (aromas, flavours) of Pinot Noir, you may enjoy this; it has virtually none of them. Aromas of berry and cherry fruit are present. Look for a medium-bodied, juicy and round red with no discernible tannin and very nice balance—the fruit, acidity and tannins are all in harmony. You'll find plum and cherry fruit on the palate and finish. Pleasant sipped on its own and pairs nicely with pork tenderloin. (VH)

**** drink now
Van Ruiten ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2006
Lodi Appellation $18.95 (0058685)
This is deep ruby in the glass with characteristic juicy, black fruit. It’s medium to full bodied and intense with plush, soft tannins and fresh acidity along with blackberry, blueberry, vanilla, charred wood and sweet spice flavours. The alcohol is pretty high on this one, weighing in at 15.5%. Oven-roasted venison chops with a wild berry reduction would pair well. (LG)

**** cellar
Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Napa Valley $49.95 (708842)
Grown at 1000 to 1600 feet these ‘wines with altitude’ are from the Mayacamas Mountains, a range separating Napa and Sonoma Valleys. No wine for sissies, this delivers an aromatic blast from the glass of rich and concentrated dark berry fruit flavours along with mocha, toasty oak (24 months in barrel) and spice. The flavours—cassis, sweet warm Bing Cherry (14.5% alcohol) and mulberry—are underpinned by a firm tannin structure, and moderating tang from the Montmorency cherry flavour. The persistent finish has good balance. This cellar dweller is to be enjoyed 2012 to 2018. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Wayne Gretzky Estate Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Napa Valley $34.95 (091256)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This is seriously good wine from a fabulous vintage; drink now to 2012. Expressive aromas of minty chocolate, black briary berry and spice box rip from the glass of this medium-bodied richly textured gem. Layered and concentrated flavours abound, espresso roast, cassis and dark juicy cherry among them. The finish lingers with well-balanced tang and fruit flavours. It's a Great One to pair with medium-rare grilled strip loin. (VH)

California: Rosé

***** drink now
Bonny Doon ‘Vin Gris de Cigare’ Rosé 2007
California $19.95 (707018)
This unique blend—47% Grenache, 27% Cinsault, 14% Syrah, 7% Grenache Blanc, 5% Rousanne—the final two are white grapes, is from the inimitable Randall Grahm. The copper-coloured liquid emits aromas of distinctive minerality and red berry fruit. Using only wild yeasts and considerable lees stirring, the result is a well-balanced, generously textured and delicious wine—red currant, cranberry and spiced black plum flavours galore. This is elegant with potential to please the most discriminating wine lover, especially when chilled and paired with a festive bird with all the fixings. (VH)

Argentina: Red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Gran Lurton 'Gran Reserva' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Mendoza, Argentina $20.95 (980334)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Smoke, spice and field berry aromas form segue to this elegant red. It's full-bodied and absolutely chock-full of flavour—sweet black cherry, dark chocolate and black licorice to the fore. Deftly balanced and well-structured, you'll also experience some perceptible tannin. You can deal with them by serving with a rare to medium rare steak and enjoying the wine now. Or, you can cellar and drink 2009 to 2014. Excellent value. (VH)

**** drink now
R.J. Vinedos Joffré E Hijas Premium Malbec 2004
Uco Valley, Mendoza $25.95 (0014068)
This winery was born as an export project, committed to producing low-quantity, high quality wines with lots of personality. With a super deep inky purple hue, this wine spent 14 months in French oak after a long 34-day maceration. It delivers very pronounced, jammy black fruit, blueberry, liquorice and vanilla aromas. This is dry and full bodied with balanced acidity and a juicy, supple texture. Who says dessert has to go with sweet wines? This would be lovely with a raspberry torte with bittersweet chocolate. (LG)

Chile: White

****1/2 drink now
Amayna Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Leyda Valley, San Antonio $20.95 (077693)
There are citrus, floral and mixed spice aromas on the expressive nose. It then opens up on the palate with impressive warm flavours (14.5% alcohol) of ripe pineapple, white grapefruit, and crisp, clean and refreshing citrus. Medium bodied and nicely textured, it sports a zesty finish of lip-smacking lemon-lime acidity. This is a lovely accompaniment to vegetarian quiche. (VH)

Chile: Red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Montes ‘Alpha’ Syrah 2006
Colchagua Valley $22.95 (000612)
This is a classy effort with the addition of 7% Cabernet Sauvignon (adding structure) and 3% Viognier (adding lift to the flavours) plus 12 months in French oak. The nose is redolent of lilac and dark berry fruit while the palate is treated to a rich and concentrated wave of involved flavours that include kirsch liqueur, mulberry, spiced black Damson plum and lashings of toasty oak. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured while the tannin is firm and the balance perfect. The finish adds a lovely layering of dark chocolate. Good value; pick up a few and drink now, after a three-hour aeration / decant, until 2016. (VH)

Australia: Red

**** drink or cellar
Blue Pyrenees Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Victoria $22.95 (0079590)
This Estate was established in 1963 as Château Remy by the then owners of the Champagne houses of Charles Heidsieck and Krug. It’s now 100% Australian owned and comprised of a whopping 437 acres of vineyard planted on predominantly sandy-loam soils. There’s a beautiful nose on this one, with black fruits and a handful of herbs including lavender, sage, rosemary, thyme and eucalyptus. It’s dry and pronounced in the mouth with moderate acidity, velvety tannins and 14% alcohol. There are flavours of black olives, sweet black fruit, plum and blackberry jam on the palate. (LG)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Clarence Hill Shiraz 2005
McLaren Vale, South Australia $20.95 (599811)
This lighter style will appeal to those finding Aussie Shiraz over-oaked and overwhelming. It delivers deft balance and focused fruit flavour, tasting just as good the third glass as the first. There are aromas and flavours of spice box, red cherry, red currant and mocha. It’s medium in body and texture with a lingering and dry refreshing finish. Sip on its own or pair with grilled red meat. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
d’Arenberg ‘The Galvo Garage’ 2006
McLaren Vale/Adelaide Hills, South Australia $27.95 (0907584)
This is a Bordeaux-style blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 18% Petit Verdot and 6% Cabernet Franc, aged in French oak for 18 months. It’s a deep ruby-brick colour with stewed fruit, blackberry, cherry, cassis, garrigue and minty-eucalyptus notes. Dry and full bodied with 14.5% alcohol, velvety tannins, fresh acidity and a little pepper and spice thrown in on the palate. (LG)

**** drink or cellar
Grant Burge ‘The Holy Trinity’ Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2003
Barossa Valley, South Australia $37.95 (0726802)
The ‘Holy Trinity’ is a Rhône-style blend of 39% Grenache, 37% Shiraz and 24% Mourvèdre. There’s a bouquet of sweet, fleshy fruit, floral notes, liquorice, blueberry, eucalyptus and earth. On the palate it’s medium to full bodied with juicy acidity, velvety tannins, 14.5% alcohol and more sweet fruit flavours. Try it with Canard aux Framboises (duck with raspberries) with herbed farro. (LG)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Groom Shiraz 2006
Barossa Valley, South Australia $37.95 (074237)
This is a ripper; it’s sourced from Kalimna fruit that’s nestled up to the Penfold’s Shiraz source for an important component of their Grange. It saw 15 months in American oak—most of it seasoned—and was fermented in small batches and punched down in open fermenters. The palate is treated to rich and succulent black briary berry, black currant and black plum flavours that are framed by moderating acidity and a firm tannin structure. The finish lingers; you shouldn’t or it will all be gone. Drink now, after a three-hour decant, until 2015. If the budget allows, pick up a few. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Kilikanoon ‘The Medley’ 2006
Barossa Valley/Clare Valley, South Australia $26.95 (675256)
A GSM blend from two premier regions, this delivers a persistent stream of tart cherry, red currant, black raspberry and a cornucopia of herbs and spice. It’s medium in body and texture, nicely balanced while the medium-length finish offers additional flavours of toasty vanillin oak and dark cherry. Pair with a mess of garlic and herb-rubbed back ribs hot off the grill. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Yalumba Wine Company ‘Mawson’s Hill Block 3’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Wrattonbully, South Australia $19.95 (0060228)
This is a nice ruby-brick colour with floral notes of eucalyptus, lavender and sage. It’s dry and full bodied with 14.5% alcohol, moderate tannins and balanced acidity. You’ll discover cocoa, liquorice, sweet black fruit and vanilla on the palate with a medium-long finish. This will last for another 3 years or so in the cellar. (LG)

**** cellar
Mount Langi Ghiran ‘Cliff Edge’ Shiraz 2004
Grampians, Victoria $24.95 (683003)
The lifted aromas are involved and complex—earthiness, tar, black licorice, blackberry and savoury herb. The flavours are delivered in a persistent stream through the generous finish—mulberry, tart cherry and blueberry. Perceptible firm tannin and good moderating acidity help round out this medium-bodied and nicely textured red. Drink 2011 to 2016 alongside a hearty meat dish like osso bucco or lamb daube. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Virgara Wines Shiraz 2004
Adelaide Plains, South Australia $29.95 (072991)
This small family-owned and operated winery comes up big here. Aromas of boysenberry, licorice, toasty oak—15 months in seasoned barrels—and black pepper waft from the glass while the flavours are succulent and delicious with gobs of ripe fruit—black currant, Bing cherry and black plum compote. Medium bodied and very nicely textured it delivers a nicely balanced and long finish of sweet ripe (14.5% alcohol) dark fruit and chocolate. There’s good value here. (VH)

New Zealand: Red

**** drink or cellar
Oyster Bay Merlot 2007
Hawkes Bay, North Island $17.95 (692343)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Well focused and beautifully textured, this is drinking well now and will do so on to 2014. You'll discover rich black plum aromas and flavours along with mixed spice box and herbal notes. It's particularly well balanced with everything melding together on the silky smooth finish. Hawkes Bay is New Zealand's über Merlot region. It's perfectly paired with braised lamb shanks. (VH)

South Africa: Red

**** drink or cellar
Boekenhoutskloof ‘Porcupine Ridge’ Syrah/Viognier 2007
WO Coastal Region $19.95 (0079442)
With just a touch of Viognier (5%), this Syrah has lots of blackberry, mulberry, cassis, blueberry and medicinal/iodine notes on the nose. It’s dry and full bodied with fresh acidity, velvety tannins, 14.5% alcohol and pronounced, rich baked fruit, tar and dust on the palate. A great buy at under $20. (LG)

**** drink or cellar
Anwilka ‘Ugaba’ 2006
WO Stellenbosch $26.95 (0083204)
The second wine of Anwilka, the ‘Ugaba’ is a blend of 42% Syrah, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon and 26% Merlot aged 10 months in French oak. A deep ruby-purple colour in the glass it has a black fruit and liquorice bouquet. This is dry and full bodied with 14% alcohol, juicy acidity and velvety tannins. Drink it over the next 3-5 years. (LG)

France: White

Alsace

****1/2 drink now
Louis Sipp Pinot Gris 2005
AOC Alsace $19.95 (731471)
Great name for a winery owner—you’ll want to Sipp some, as well. The very expressive nose offers up aromas of exotic spice, ripe yellow peach and nectarine. The rich and delicious flavours include sweet ripe apple compote and fresh peach cobbler. It’s medium bodied generously textured and sports a well-balanced finish with a dollop of ripe citrus and spice. Give it a go with baked bone-in smoked ham, garlic mashed potatoes and roasted root veggies. (VH)

Burgundy

**** drink or cellar
Domaine de la Mandelière Chablis 1er Cru Mont-de-Milieu 2006
AOC Chablis $33.95 (0087403)
Domaine de la Mandelière is located in a small village of 140 inhabitants, 4 km from the town of Chablis. They have about 16 hectares total, only 2 ha of which are classified as Chablis 1er Cru “Mont-de-Millieu”. The vines range in age from 3 to 65 years old. Pale straw in colour with a fresh nose of apple, grapefruit and mineral. This is dry and medium to full bodied on the palate with good acidity, 13% alcohol and a long lemony finish. It’s very well balanced and delicate. (LG)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine du Prieuré Savigny-les-Beaune Blanc 2006
AOC Savigny-les-Beaune $26.95 (0087437)
Located in the heart of the Côte d’Or, the monks of Citeaux founded a priory at Savigny-les-Beaune in the 18th century. The producer, Jean-Michel Maurice, inherited 4 hectares of the original vineyard holdings of the monks and has been in operation for 50-odd years. This wine was produced by fermenting part of the juice in stainless steel and the rest in barrel, followed by ageing in barrel. The colour of corn silk, the bouquet shows lime, floral and mineral notes. It’s dry and light to medium bodied with 13% alcohol and crisp acidity. A duck terrine would be a great accompaniment to this wine. (LG)

France: Red

Bordeaux

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Beauregard 2005
AOC Pomerol $67.95 (0500876)
A blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, it has an enticing nose of tobacco and a mix of spices, pepper, red fruit and floral notes. A nice amount of the Cabernet Franc character shows through, but is mixed with pretty, feminine aromatics. This is dry and medium to full bodied with 13% alcohol, smooth, fine tannins and crisp acidity. It’s very elegant and balanced, although not a steal price-wise. It will, however, last for a few more years in the cellar. (LG)

**** drink or cellar
Château Côte de Baleau 2005
AOC Saint-Émilion $38.95 (0501940)
There are lovely aromas of cherry, wood char, smoke, burnt sugar, liquorice and stewed blueberry. It’s dry and medium bodied with juicy acidity, velvety tannins and 13.5% alcohol. The price is right, as well, if you’re looking for a smooth, fruity style with a little longevity. Try it with a great cool-weather casserole of parsnips, leeks, carrots and chestnuts. (LG)

****1/2 cellar
Château Fombrauge 2005
AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru $58.00 (0503185)
This Château was built in 1410 and is named after the Seigneurs de Fombrauge. A blend of 77% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc and 9% Merlot, it aged in French oak for 18 months. It displays a fairly intense nose of cherry, cassis, old leather, faint spice and pepper. On the palate it really shines with a full figure, medium acidity and powerful, stiff tannins. There’s also some nice blackberry, raspberry and cocoa on the finish. This is one to cellar. (LG)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Gaudin 2005
AOC Pauillac $36.95 (0091421)
A hop, skip and a jump away from the more famous Château Pontet-Canet, Château Gaudin is a lesser known label found in the Pauillac appellation—this AOC is also the home of three out of the five 1st growths. A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, it has enticing aromas of chocolate/mocha, spice and concentrated red and black fruit. It’s dry and full bodied with moderate acidity, 12.5%, velvety, fine tannins and a savoury finish. Cellarable for upwards of a decade. (LG)

**** drink now
Château Larroque ‘Winter Label’ 2005
AOC Bordeaux $16.95 (0088203)
With a fun snowflake-holiday-themed label for the holiday season, this wine comes from the Vignobles Ducourt, which is the 2nd biggest family-owned vineyard in this appellation. There are aromas of spice, cured meat, cherry, cassis, mocha, mulberry and blackberry. You’ll find it dry and medium bodied with medium acidity, smooth tannins and 13% alcohol. Fairly light, but a great wine considering it comes from the largest appellation in Bordeaux. A good price, as well, coming in under $20. (LG)

**** drink or cellar
Château Le Clos du Merle 2005
AOC Côtes de Bourg $19.95 (0086629)
The appellations of Côtes de Bourg and its neighbour, Premières Côtes de Blaye, are both appellations that offer great value, especially for earlier-drinking wines. They tend to be softer and more approachable, although many producers are doing some cool things, using more modern equipment and experimenting with barrel ageing. This particular wine is 60% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Malbec. On the nose it shows game, cherry, iron and red currant nuances, with a dry and medium-bodied palate. With unexpected quality on the palate, it has friendly tannins, nice and fresh acidity and 13% alcohol. There are also some flavours of light wood and berries adding to the depth of this wine. (LG)

***1/2 drink now
Château Marjosse 2005
AOC Bordeaux $23.95 (0505776)
The Lurton family began acquiring properties in Bordeaux in the early 20th century and now own more wine estates than any other single family. Pierre Lurton, part of the younger generation of the family, has been the estate manager at Cheval Blanc as well as Château d’Yquem. With a deep ruby colour, there is lots of red fruit including cherry, cassis, raspberry, as well as pepper and spice notes. It progresses onto the medium-bodied palate, with a silky texture, approachable tannins and medium acidity. Being fairly easy-going and straightforward, it’s best consumed in the near future. (LG)

****1/2 cellar
Château Patache D’Aux ‘Cuvée Flora’ 2005
AOC Médoc $50.95 (0998377)
This winery has a long history; the Chevaliers d’Aux were the first owners of this château back in 1632. Seized as a state property during the revolution, it turned into a post house for stage coaches that were called ‘Pataches”. Since 1964 it has been owned by the Lapalu family. Deep ruby colour with a tinge of purple, this wine is dry and full bodied with velvety tannins and well-balanced acid. There is lots of flavour, including cherry, cassis, pepper, cedar, liquorice and an underlying nuttiness. Not cheap, but will be rewarding if left alone for awhile. (LG)

Rhône Valley

****1/2 drink or cellar
Vignerous d’Estérzargues La Granacha Signargues 2006
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $21.95 (082560)
This is gorgeous with the price-quality ratio skewed well in your favour. Aromas of spice, earthiness and leather nuances drift off the glass of this full-flavoured—black briary berry, cassis and mulberry—medium-weight, fully textured gem. It’s deftly balanced and lingers on the finish with flavours of Bing cherry and spiced black plum. This is well structured with ripe and supple tannin. Pair this with grilled lamb tenderloins or grilled rack of lamb. (VH)

Germany: White

**** drink or cellar
Selbach-Oster Riesling Spätlese 2007
QmP, Bernkasteler Badstube, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $28.95 (0970368)
These vineyards have been in the hands of the same family since 1661. The vines are ungrafted and planted on south-facing slopes, on rocky slate soil. It’s a medium-sweet Riesling with complementary acidity and aromas of lemon, custard, mineral and white flowers. With a light 8% alcohol, this is a wine you don’t have to feel guilty about having with lunch. It delivers delectable key lime pie flavours with a very clean finish. This is an obvious partner to seafood because of its delicacy and would be fun to try with sushi. (LG)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Lingenfelder Riesling Kabinett 2007
QmP, Freinsheimer Musikantenbuckel, Pfalz $18.95 (087593)
Always worth a punt, Lingenfelder seldoms disappoints. This explodes on the palate with waves of ripe sweet flavours—melon, yellow plum, ripe pineapple and an underlying stream of minerality and ripe citrus. It has that sweet and tang sensation that allows an easy pairing with spicy Asian cuisine like spicy Thai tamarind prawns. (VH)

Italy: White

**** drink now
Anselmi Capitel Croce 2005
IGT Veneto $25.95 (0966655)
Regarded as one of Italy’s leading white wine producers, Roberto Anselmi was fed up with the poor quality of Soave wines and decided to boycott the appellation as of 2000. Under other circumstances, this 100% Garganega wine would qualify as a Soave but instead is under the IGT Veneto designation. This wine is from a single vineyard and barrel-fermented. Medium lemon in colour, it displays buttery notes of yogurt, applesauce, pear and dried apricot. Dry and medium bodied with crisp acidity and 13% alcohol, there are more buttery vanilla flavours on the creamy-textured palate. If you want to try something out of the ordinary, have this IGT with grilled sea bass with a vanilla sauce. (LG)

Italy: Red

Abruzzo

**** drink or cellar
Terra D’Aligi Tolos Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 2004
DOC Montepulciano D’Abruzzo $29.95 (0019166)
This wine is treated to 18 months in barrel followed by another year in bottle. Although a culprit for unnecessarily heavy bottles, this wine is deep ruby in colour with lots of sweet chocolate, vanilla and cassis. It’s dry and full bodied with 14.5% alcohol and velvety tannins. You’ll find it very ripe with good concentration and notes of wood, spice, blackberry and red fruit on the palate. (LG)

Piedmont

****1/2 cellar
Ceretto Barbaresco ‘Asij’ 2005
DOCG Barbaresco $52.95 (0726133)
The Ceretto family has been producing wines for three generation and over seven decades. Medium brick-garnet in the glass, this Barbaresco has high-toned berry aromas on the nose and palate—strawberry, cherry and blueberry with slight medicinal tones. It’s dry and medium to full bodied with fine-grained tannins and juicy acidity. This is very cellar friendly, as well. It would nicely complement pappardelle with game meat and truffles, or truffle oil. (LG)

**** cellar
Poderi Colla Roncaglie Barbaresco 2004
DOCG Barbaresco $54.95 (0715763)
This is an attractive medium-garnet colour with stewed strawberry, salami, red cherry, red currant and earth aromas. It’s dry and elegant with very fresh acidity, fine firm tannins, 13.5% alcohol and a full body. Lots of finesse in this wine, and it should be put in the cellar in order to fully benefit from its quality. Try this great Barbaresco with Barolo-braised guinea fowl and roasted minted potatoes. (LG)

Tuscany

****1/2 drink or cellar
Famiglia Castellani ‘Campomaggio’ Chianti Classico 2004
DOCG Chianti Classico $21.95 (0085027)
Owned by the Castellani family, the vineyards are under the eye of agronomist Federico Comassi with wines crafted by oenologist Sabino Russo. The family also owns four other properties in Tuscany and the Campomaggio vineyard is considered to be one of its best. There is lots of earthiness on the nose along with meat, cherry, bright red fruit, cedar, sandalwood, floral tones and dried herbs. It’s dry and medium bodied with structured acidity, moderate tannins, 12.5% alcohol and great length. This is a very impressive Chianti for a reasonable price. (LG)

**** drink or cellar
Alessi, Leandro & Gabriella ‘Cennatoio’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2003
DOCG Chianti Classico $31.95 (0704205)
Leandro and Gabriella Alessi have managed this estate since 1971 with a total of 10 hectares planted on stony, marly soil with southern exposure. Four years ago the estate went organic and they also grow olive and fruit trees on the property. This Classico Riserva displays ripe cherry, anise and black fruit notes with a dry and medium- to full-bodied palate. It has velvety tannins with good structure, 13% alcohol and balanced acidity. This is one to drink over the next 3-4 years. (LG)

****1/2 drink now
Cantine Leonardo da Vinci ‘Da Vinci’ Chianti Reserva 2004
DOCG Chianti Riserva $35.95 (0082370)
This 100% Sangiovese wine spends 12 months in oak before resting another 4 months in bottle. Deep ruby in colour, there are aromas of kirsch, violet and black fruit. It’s dry and medium to full bodied with 13% alcohol, velvety tannins and good balance. I was not overly impressed by the label, but was really pleasantly surprised by what was in the bottle. Looks can be deceiving, so this is one more reason why you should adhere to the principle “don’t knock it until you try it”. (LG)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Isole E Olena Collezione de Marchi Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
IGT Toscana $72.95 (025668)
From one of the top small wine producers in the world, collectors and aficionados won’t want to miss out on this. It’s rich, layered and bursting with expressive aromas—leather, sprigs of mixed savoury herbs and dark berry fruit—and rich in succulent flavours of kirsch liqueur and moderating racy and zesty pie cherry. It’s medium to full bodied, well balanced and deftly oaked. Framed with supple tannin, it lingers on the dry finish with a dollop of moderating acidity. Drink now, after a two-hour aeration / decant, and on to 2018. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
La Vite Lucente 2005
IGT Toscana $39.95 (747030)
This ‘Super Tuscan’ opens with a promising nose of earthiness, black Damson plum and blueberry aromas that segue creamy-textured flavours of black briary berry, espresso roast and black juicy cherry. It’s medium bodied delivering ripe tannin and lovely balance throughout. It finishes with a dollop of tang making it the perfect partner with pasta in a tomato-based sauce like pasta puttanesca. (VH).

**** drink or cellar
Villa Cafaggio Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
DOCG Chianti Classico $40.95 (945196)
“Classico’ indicates this hails from the premiere area of Chianti and ‘Riserva’ signals 24 months of ageing—at least three in bottle—before release. This top-of-the-line red opens with beguiling aromas of mocha, lilac and nuances of minerality while the flavours are deep and rich—unusual for Chianti—with dark juicy cherry covered in dark chocolate and hints of spice. It’s medium to full bodied, fully textured and sports a medium-length well-balanced finish. Good to go now and on to 2014. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cantina Valpontena ‘Torre Del Falasco’ Valpolicella Ripasso 2006
DOC Ripasso delle Valpolicella $18.95 (642421)
Slipping quietly under the radar screen, this offers good value to winecurrent subscribers as the price-quality balance is tipped well in your favour. This is gorgeous with aromas of coffee, chocolate and earthiness coupled with luscious and endless black currant and cassis flavours, a supple tannin structure and near-perfect balance. This robust and fruity finish lingers, make certain you don’t—run to pick up a half dozen or so. (VH)

Spain: Red

****1/2 cellar
Juan Gil Monastrell 2006
DO Jumilla $16.95 (013656)
The ’05 was a winecurrent ‘screaming buy’ and this is no less in spite of the two dollar hike—pick up an armful. This Monastrell, a.k.a. Mourvèdre, is sweet and rich with a roomful of aromas—mixed field berry, toasty oak and hints of floral, and a glassful of flavour—mulberry, black and ripe Bing cherry and a moderating hit of red pie cherry. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and sports a fruit-forward finish. Pair this with braised short ribs alongside roasted parsnip and butternut squash. (VH)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: December 6, 2008

***1/2 drink or cellar
Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Napa Valley, California $85.95 (15578)
Aromas of earthiness, mushroom and red cherry waft from the glass while the flavours are restrained and in the red cherry and red currant zones. It’s medium in weight and texture with perceptible tannin adding interest and structure. It finishes with good red berry fruit flavours and drying tannin. Aerate / decant this for a couple of hours then serve with Swiss steak. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Sterling Vineyards ‘Three Palms’ Merlot 2004
Napa Valley $94.95 (387860)
The Merlot in this hails from a very tony vineyard and gets full V.I.P. treatment—18 months in French oak, 40% new, and is egg-white fined. There’s also 19% Cab Sauv and 4% Petit Verdot in this. Savoury spice, sweet black plum and leather aromas segue succulent flavours of mulberry, cassis and black briary berry. It’s medium weight, fully textured and sports a persistence fruity finish with balance, toasty notes and elegance. Drink 2010 to 2018 alongside a medium-rare grilled rib eye. (VH)

Vintages Release: January 2009

***1/2 drink now
Bodegas Catena Zapata ‘Alamos’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Agrelo-Tupungato, Mendoza, Argentina $13.95
This ‘Alamos’ tag signifies an honest wine delivering more-than-fair value. This is aromatic with expressive aromas of mixed spice, lilac and dried crushed berry fruit drifting off the glass. The flavours are smooth, mellow and fruit forward—black plum, minty cherry and sweet ripe mulberry. It’s medium bodied, generously textured and sports a lingering finish that layers on tart pie cherry for balance and some interesting hints of espresso roast and black briary berry fruit. Drinking now and looking for a grilled red meat partner. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Chakana Bonarda 2007
Agrelo, Mendoza, Argentina $13.95
Surprisingly, the Bonarda grape flies under the radar screen of most wine lovers in spite of being widely planted in Argentina. The nose on this is quite aromatic with spiced berry fruit and hints of licorice while the palate is treated to a persistent wave of rich spicy flavour with black currant, kirsch liqueur and bramble berry to the fore. It’s medium bodied and delivers a lingering finish of fruit and black licorice flavours plus a lovely hint of espresso roast. Great value, pick up a cartful and drink now to 2014. (VH)

**** drink now
Don Cristobal ‘1492’ Verdhello 2008
Los Campamentos, Rivadavia, Mendoza, Argentina $12.95 (81182)
A grape more commonly associated with Portugal (Madeira) or, possibly, Australia, winecurrent was told this is the only Verdhello wine from Argentina, pity. It’s very aromatic with lifted aromas of honeysuckle, tropical fruit and citrus notes. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and sports a bracing stream of lemon acidity that’s nicely supported by flavours of yellow plum and white peach. Pan-seared scallops under a drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon would make this wine sing. (VH)

**** drink now
Familia Zuccardi ‘Santa Julia Reserva’ Malbec 2007
Mendoza, Argentina $13.95
This displays many fine attributes not often found in this price range outside of Argentina. There are expressive spice and fruit aromas on the nose while the palate is enriched with a lovely bathing of layered and succulent flavours—cassis, cherry compote and rich black currant jam. The tannin is fine-grained and unobtrusive while the balance is near perfect and the finish lengthy and fruity. From the makers of Fuzion, this is a step up in quality and price. (VH)

**** drink now
Humberto Canale Estate Merlot 2007
Rio Negro, Patagonia, Argentina $13.95
This is hand-picked 100% Merlot from one of the world’s most southerly wine regions. Look for expressive and concentrated flavours of ripe red pie cherry, juicy red raspberry and red currant. It’s full flavoured, medium weight and generously textured with a delightfully lengthy aftertaste that’s redolent of plum compote and blueberry pie. With just a hint of oak and supple tannin, this is ready to drink now, either on its own or alongside braised short ribs. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tempus Two Cabernet Merlot 2006
Barossa Valley / Langhorne Creek, Australia $18.95 (91736)
Inky purple, this barrels out of the glass with lifted aromas of mixed spice and savoury herbs, aromatic bitters, toast and tarry notes. The flavours bathe the palate in rich and concentrated waves of prune plum compote, dark raisiny berry fruit and a mélange of sweet mulberry and racy pie cherry, all underpinned by ripe supple tannin. This is a superb rendering of Aussie fruit in a style that offers balance, a lengthy finish and very good value. Pick up an armful. (VH)

**** drink now
Tempus Two ‘Wilde’ Chardonnay 2007
Hunter Valley / Adelaide Hills, Australia $18.95 (91710)
Copious amounts of vanillin oak, toast and nutty aromas drift off the glass of this medium-bodied creamy-textured—barrel fermented with loads of lees stirring—gem. It was vinified using wild yeast (the play on words ‘Wilde’ is in reference to Oscar) and spent nine months in oak. Flavours of sweet yellow peach, honeydew melon, ripe pineapple and lemon zest burst forth on the mid palate while it finishes with a mouth-watering hit of ripe citrus tang and nuances of toasty oak. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Trapiche ‘Broquel’ Cabernet Franc 2006
Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina $15.95
Their mantra is ‘value wines’ and this one certainly fits the bill. It opens with a forward nose of mixed spice and herbs and freshly sliced strawberry. The texture’s plush, the weight moderate and the flavours are a gusher of black currant jam and boysenberry with zesty red pie cherry for balance. The persistent aftertaste is well balanced and sports a lovely flavours of mixed dark berry fruit. (VH)

Vintages Release: February 28, 2009

***1/2 drink now
Chakana Malbec 2007
Agrelo, Mendoza, Argentina $13.95
Seeing only three months in oak and barely a hint of tannin allows early and pleasurable consumption. Aromas of underbrush, tobacco leaf and a salad bowl of berry fruit segue racy and heady flavours of Montmorency cherry, ripe pomegranate and red currant. It’s medium in weight and texture with a generous aftertaste of berry fruit and spice. Pair this with pasta in tomato-based sauce like spaghetti Bolognese. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Dominio del Plata ‘Crios de Susana Balbo’ Syrah – Bonarda 2007
Mendoza, Argentina $18.95
This shows great depth, structure and concentration conjuring up terms like ‘elegant’ and ‘classy’. It’s a 50/50 blend of Syrah and Bonarda with the aromas nodding to both as there are both black pepper and anise. It washes the palate with richly textured flavours of juicy Bing cherry and plum compote then finishes with a never-ending stream of dark fruit flavours that are nicely framed by moderating acidity and a supple tannin structure. Unfined and unfiltered, this really has it all; you should get at least some of it. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Familia Zuccardi ‘Santa Julia Magna’ Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec/Syrah 2005
Mendoza, Argentina $14.95
This is drop-dead gorgeous; run, don’t walk, and pick up a case. Drink now, after a two-hour decant and on to 2014. Crushed dried berry and dusty mineral on the nose it explodes on the palate with rich concentrated and succulent flavours of raisined dark berry fruit, kirsch liqueur and dollops of thick creamy black raspberry jam. It’s still underpinned by grainy tannin, but will soften with bottle age. It’s medium to full bodied, fully textured and delicious on the well-balanced lengthy finish. (VH)

New in Vintages

**** drink now
Bodegas Catena Zapata Malbec 2006
Agrelo, Mendoza, Argentina $19.95 (478727)
This is a ‘Vintages Essentials’ product—always available in selected LCBO stores. This lovely red solidifies Malbec’s claim to being the signature grape of Argentina. Coffee, herbaceous savoury notes and solid dark berry fruit aromas segue rich, concentrated and layered flavours of black currant, Bing cherry and spiced German prune plum. It’s medium bodied, fully flavoured and nicely textured while the finish adds another dimension with a solid stream of moderating tang. Lovely to sip on its own it has the oomph and structure to pair with grilled spicy back ribs. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Bonterra Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Mendocino County, California $18.95 (342428)
A ‘Vintages Essentials’ product—it’s always available in selected LCBO stores. This opens with a lifted nose of earthy, spicy, forest floor aromas then shifts into high gear with a gusher of gorgeously rich and concentrated flavours—cassis, tart pie cherry and ripe juicy black raspberry. There’s excellent balance and good structure supplied by ripe and plush tannin, a generous texture and good weight. The finish layers on hints of mint and mocha. This was vinified from organically grown fruit from a winery that’s serious about sustainable agriculture. The price-quality balance is tipped in your favour. (VH)

**** drink now
Bonterra Chardonnay 2007
Mendocino County, California $17.95 (342346)
This barrel-fermented beauty was vinified from organically grown fruit. There are expressive aromas of toast, butterscotch and vanilla that are the precursors to a lovely mouthful of delicious fruit flavours with Granny Smith apple, ripe peach and pineapple to the fore. It finishes crisp, clean and refreshing with a lovely snap of citrus tang. Pour this alongside creamy chicken or turkey a la king. This is a ‘Vintages Essentials’ product—as it’s always available in selected LCBO stores. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham ‘Ice Wine’ Riesling 2006
VQA Niagara Escarpment $54.95 (430561)
Honeyed pineapple, truffles and mango aromas set up an unctuous explosion of flavours on the palate that include spicy peach, zesty peel marmalade and racy lemon acidity. This is mouth filling and creamy textured with remarkable balance and finesse. The finish is persistent, clean and refreshing. This can be served as the dessert or paired with simple fruit flan. This is a ‘Vintages Essentials’ product—always available in selected LCBO stores. (VH)

New in the LCBO

Argentina

**** drink or cellar
Bodega Norton Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza $11.00 (589556)
From a sub-appellation more famous for Malbec, this is quite special. It saw no oak barrels, was vinified from indigenous yeast and underwent 100% natural malolactic fermentation. The nose shows aromas of spice box, minerality and juicy dark berry fruit. It shifts smoothly into high gear with gorgeously restrained, yet succulent, flavours of concentrated ripe mulberry, cassis and ripe red currant fruit. There’s plush tannin for structure, a nicely developed texture and a lengthy fruity finish. This is great value. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Trapiche Malbec 2007
Mendoza, Argentina $8.95 (501551)
Bistro-styled, a.k.a. food friendly, this punches well above the price. There’s good fruit on the nose and palate with boysenberry, black briary berry and dark cherry predominant. It’s as smooth and mellow as your favourite chair while the lengthy finish delivers more of the same. This is straightforward, uncomplicated and worth every penny. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Trapiche ‘Reserve’ Malbec 2007
Mendoza, Argentina $11.95 (614651)
This is chockfull of layered and concentrated dark ripe fruit flavour. You’ll delight in the aromas and flavours of exotic spice, smoky nuances, cassis, dark plum and black raspberry that are persistent through the lengthy finish. It’s well structured, deftly balanced and will make you wonder why you pay more for your everyday red wine. Why do you? (VH)

California


*** drink or cellar
De Loach Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
California $15.95 (89250)
This organic wine bursts with aromas of mixed earthiness and minerality. The flavours are tightly focused with a persistent stream of tart pie cherry and cranberry. It’s well structured with perceptible tannin and refreshing acidity on the palate and lengthy drying finish. Aerate / decant for two hours then serve with spaghetti Bolognese. (VH)

**** drink now
De Loach Vineyards Merlot 2005
California $15.95 (89235)
This is quite flavourful, round and ready to drink. The aromas are expressive with spiced dark berry predominant along with nuances of lilac. The palate is treated to layers of sweet ripe fruit—black cherry, mulberry and black currant. The tannins are plush and the tang from ripe pomegranate is evident and welcomed on the persistent finish. It’s one smooth number offering good value. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
De Loach Vineyards Zinfandel 2006
California $15.95 (89268)
The abundant and delectable aromas and flavours include sweet black raspberry compote, black currant jam and cassis. It’s full flavoured, fully textured and weighty. The tannin adds structure while the balance is maintained through a healthy dollop of Montmorency cherry flavour on the lingering finish. This is a great food wine with spicy pasta arrabbiata a perfect pairing. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Fetzer ‘Valley Oaks’ Chardonnay 2007
California $13.95 (291674)
This will appeal to California Chardonnay-lovers as it delivers that toasty, oaky, creamy rendition that’s so popular. There are lifted aromas of baking bread, vanilla, tropical fruit and toasty oak that billow from the glass of this medium-bodied beautifully textured white. You’ll find oodles of flavours with pineapple, ripe yellow peach to the fore on the palate and the well-balanced persistent finish. For a real treat pair this with roast chicken or turkey with all the fixings. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Fetzer ‘Valley Oaks’ Merlot 2006
California $14.95 (341131)
Earthy and spicy with dark berry aromas on the nose, this delivers a silky smooth mouthful of rich fruit flavour—black currant, mulberry and pie cherry with hints of licorice and chocolate. It’s well paced with no rough edges and everything in synch. The plush tannin structure and deft balance make this exceedingly food friendly—match it with vegetarian dishes or grilled red meats. (VH)

Chile

**** drink now
Caliterra ‘Reserva’ Chardonnay 2007
Curicó Valley $9.95 (257147)
This is from cool-climate estate-grown fruit, hand picked from the Teno Vineyard. Aromas of spice and tree fruit—peach, pear and apple—segue ripe luscious flavours of tropical fruit, sweet nectarine and white peach that are ably balanced by delightful citrus tang. It’s medium bodied, generously textured and finishes clean, crisp and refreshing with additional hints of nuttiness and vanilla. Pair this with roast chicken, turkey, or seafood and pasta in white sauce. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Caliterra ‘Reserva’ Merlot 2007
Colchagua Valley $11.95 (466482)
Aromatic and flavourful, this delivers value for money. You’ll find aromas and flavours of balsamic, spice, and dark berry fruit that are plush, round and silky smooth. It’s medium in body and texture with a warm fruity finish. It’s not complex, but it’s a good quaffing wine and pairs up well with pizza or burgers. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Caliterra Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Casablanca $10.95 (275909)
Close your eyes and this might be a high-quality SB from Marlborough delivering aromas of nettles, gooseberry and grassy notes. The flavours attack the palate with gusto; there’s ripe sweet tropical fruit—pineapple, melon and mango—that’s deftly balanced with a steady stream of bracing citrus acidity. This single-vineyard gem finishes racy and ready to be served alongside salt and pepper calamari rings or spicy prawn kebabs. This is very good value, indeed. (VH)

**** drink now
Caliterra Reserva ‘Bio-Sur’ Shiraz 2006
Colchagua $11.95 (74153)
There are tantalizing aromas on the nose—earthy, gamey and rich dark berry fruit while the concentrated and rich fruit flavours are predominantly spiced black Damson plum, tart pie cherry and juicy ripe black raspberry. It’s medium weight, fully textured while the lengthy finish layers on lashings of zest, tang and ripe Bing cherry flavour. Caliterra is an incredibly enviro-friendly and responsible winery—caring for their workers as well as the environment—and this wine speaks volumes for the success of those efforts. You can hardly afford to not pick up a bottle. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Carmen Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Valle de Maipo $10.95 (78980)
There are not many good Cab Sauvs around at this price; this one’s well worth a try. It’s quite aromatic with mixed spice, minty chocolate and mixed field berry on the nose. There’s lots going with a mélange of flavours that include red pie cherry, mulberry and strawberry plus hints of mocha. There’s perceptible tannin that can be dealt with nicely with a two-hour aeration / decant while the finish is dry and racy clean. This pours well with pasta in a tomato-based sauce. (VH)

France

***1/2 drink now
Green Rabbit Merlot 2007
Vin de Pays des Bouches du Rhône, France $13.95 (87379) 1L Tetra Pak
This wine is ECOCERT organic certified and packaged in enviro-friendly Tetra. Aromas of mixed spice and sprigs of savoury herbs segue nicely balanced fruit flavours of black currant, spiced black plum and mixed berry fruit. It’s very approachable with no rough edges or perceptible tannin. The finish is pleasing and sets this up for a comfortable match with a variety of foods, burgers, pizza and gourmet sausage for instance. (VH)

Italy

**** drink or cellar
Folonari Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2006
DOC Valpolicella Classico Superiore $16.95 (481838)
Aromas of earth, handfuls of savoury herbs and dark raisins waft from the glass of this red beauty. The concentrated flavours are redolent of dried crushed berry fruit, black licorice, aromatic bitters and black currant with hints of leather and spice. It’s full bodied nicely textured and sports a lingering fruity finish. Pair this with a rich and hearty dish like osso bucco. (VH)

Quebec

**** drink now
Domaine Pinnacle ‘Ice Cider’ 2006
Quebec $29.92 (94094)
Made from hand-harvested partially frozen apples—six different varieties—this delivers a delicious mouthful of nectar-like wine. The abundant aromas include honeyed baked apple, peach cobbler with gentle hints of cinnamon and maple syrup. The flavours are expressive and lip-smacking good with apple compote, caramel / toffee-dipped Hallowe’en apples and crème brûlée predominant. This is full flavoured and generously textured with a lengthy unctuous finish that shows very good balance. Drink on its own as dessert or pair with a fruit flan. This offers good value and is attractively packaged for gifting. (VH)

New in Ontario Wineries

****1/2 drink now
Cave Spring Cellars Gewürztraminer 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench $15.95
This offers terrific value showcasing the superb ’07 vintage and with the price-quality ratio skewed in your favour. Expressive aromas of rosewater, exotic spice and lychee fruit blossom forth while the palate is treated to a generously textured mouthful of flavour with spiced yellow plum, tropical fruit and a gorgeous bite of citrussy tang on the lip-smacking finish. Pair this with spicy Asian cuisine. For daily home or office delivery in the Ottawa-Kingston area order from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; in other areas via Winery to Home. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Cave Spring Cellars Merlot 2006
VQA Niagara Escarpment $16.95
Black olives and savoury herb on the nose this delivers tang and zest via pie cherry, cranberry and red currant flavours that intermingle with lively herbaceous notes. It’s medium bodied and sets itself up as lovely food wine that’s looking for coq au vin or pasta in a spicy tomato-based sauce. For daily home or office delivery in the Ottawa-Kingston area order from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; in other areas via Winery to Home. (VH)

New in Consignment

****1/2 drink or cellar
Bonny Doon Vineyard 'Le Cigare Volant' 2004
California $38.45
There are cassis, exotic spice and dark berry aromas galore in this Châteauneuf-du-Pape-like red blend—50% Grenache, 24% Mourvèdre, 22% Syrah, 3% Carignane, 1% Cinsault. Randall Grahm couldn’t resist naming this Le Cigare Volant (flying cigar) as it’s the French term for flying saucer. In 1954, winemakers in that region had a by-law passed preventing flying saucers from flying over or landing in vineyards, on penalty of being impounded. This delivers an impressive stream of concentrated fruit flavours, especially on the mid-palate, with black raspberry, sweet black cherry and ripe German prune plum predominant. There are also gamey notes and hints of tobacco leaf and savoury herbs. It’s medium-bodied and fully textured displaying ripe supple tannin and finishes with lovely squirt of refreshing zest and tang. The monumental finish—30 to 40 seconds—is worth the price of admission. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Rob Elvy of Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Bonny Doon Vineyard ‘Bien Nacido’ Syrah 2005
Santa Maria Valley, California $48.80
The most Rhône-like of the wines offered, this hails from a cool-ish California climate and has the spice box, decisive minerality and smoked deli meat aromas to show for it. This 100% Syrah is dark and brooding in the glass springing into action with a gargantuan and complex wave of teeth-staining flavours—dark berry fruit, black juicy cherry and plum compote. Full bodied and nicely textured, you’ll find grainy tannin, terrific balance and a lengthy finish. Drink 2012 to 2020+. Order by the case for home or office delivery via Private Order from Rob Elvy of Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Bonny Doon ‘Le Pousseur’ Syrah 2005
Central Coast, California $23.65
Black pepper, smoked bacon and tarry black licorice aromas abound on this silky-smooth round and ready-to-drink offering. There’s a 4% touch of Grenache in this, adding to the complexity. The flavours are quite focused and laser-like, look for red currant, red cherry and racy cranberry throughout. It’s restrained at the moment, needing another two year’s bottle age and a three-hour aeration / decant upon opening. Pair this with coq au vin. Order by the case for home or office delivery via Private Order from Rob Elvy of Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Bonny Doon ‘Beeswax Vineyard - Le Vol des Anges’ 2007
Arroyo Seco, California $36.10 (375 mL)
Unctuous, rich, honeyed and concentrated, this is a Late Harvest wine on steroids. You’ll find a cornucopia of flavours including orange marmalade, sweet honeyed tropical fruit, caramel, sweet peach and spiced nectarine. It’s full textured and delivers a lengthy well-balanced finish. Pair this with crème brûlée or crème caramel—delicious. Order by the case for home or office delivery via Private Order from Rob Elvy of Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)

Cheers, Lindsay and Vic

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar