October 25th, 2008 Vintages Release

Winecurrent.com delivers a comprehensive and complete review of the Vintages Release wines tasted. No short cuts, no skimping, just honest and complete reviews of the wines that were made available for tasting at the LCBO, earning 3 stars and above, to help you make your selections.

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature on Amarone & Ripasso wines from Italy followed by a mini-feature on ‘Party Wine’. The familiar country/region format follows in the 'Main Release' with wines reviewed in the order they appear in the Vintages Release brochure.

We’re keenly interested in what you have to say! Winecurrent receives many comments on the newsletter and we’d like to publish those that reflect your thoughts. Please send yours to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. with permission to print, using your first name only.

Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
  • Lindsay was impressed with a 5 star red Bordeaux while Vic reviews a 5 star Italian ‘Super Tuscan’; both offer good value.
  • Look in Chile: Red for a 4½ star two glasses they both loved for under $15.
  • Zoltan Szabo, good friend and acclaimed wine personality, contributes an article and reviews on Ravine Vineyard, a brand-spanking-new Ontario winery. Read more...
  • After the Main Release, you’ll discover reviews on many treasures.
An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Amarone & Ripasso Feature

****1/2 drink or cellar
Bertani ‘Villa Arvedi’ Amarone della Valpolicella Valpantena 2004
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella $56.95 (0013417)
Sensual raisin, kirsch, cassis, prune, fig and spice aromas lead into a dry and full bodied palate with firm tannins and a long, pleasantly bitter finish. 14.5% alcohol. This would be a great companion to pan-seared venison with blueberries and aged balsamico. (LG)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Roncolato Amarone Della Valpolicella 2005
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella $43.95 (081778)
Well balanced, well priced and well... delicious. A tell-tale orange-red hue in the glass a.k.a. ‘bricky’, it washes the palate with succulent, ripe juicy fruit with black briary berry, black Damson plum and mulberry up front. It’s full bodied, richly textured and finishes fruity and lengthy with added notes of dried berry fruit. There’s good tang and zest throughout while the price-quality balance tips in your favour. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Zenato Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2004
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico $52.95 (413179)
Amarone is made from grapes that are pressed after drying on straw mats, losing much of their water thereby concentrating flavours. Spice, leather and mocha on the nose, this delivers a solid stream of rich fruit flavours including jammy black raspberry and loads of truffles and tar. Nicely textured and extremely well balanced it delivers a drying finish with good fruit flavours. Pair this with osso bucco alongside mushroom risotto. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Zonin Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso 2006
DOC Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore $19.95 (084798)
Ripasso wines undergo a second fermentation on the lees of previously fermented Amarone thus adding texture, a little more alcohol and better depth and flavour. Aromas of dark cherry and earthy notes segue flavours of rich and concentrated boysenberry, espresso roast, bitter dark chocolate and savoury herbs. It’s medium bodied, generously textured and sports a lingering finish with deft balance and lots of flavour. (VH)

Appassimento Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ruffino Serelle Vin Santo del Chianti 2004
DOC Vin Santo del Chianti $19.95 (0001008)
Light amber in colour with nutty, dried fruit, raisin, maple syrup and slightly oxidized aromas. This is a medium-sweet dessert wine that is full bodied with high alcohol (15.5%) and a medium-long finish. Serve this after dinner or on its own as a treat, it's great with biscotti and cantucci. (LG)

Party Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay 2006
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (0681247)
Medium straw in colour, the nose boasts leesy, nutty, pineapple and baked apple notes. Balanced and elegant, the fresh acidity lifts up the full-bodied palate and 12.4% alcohol, finishing off with tangy fruit salad flavours. This would be sensational with poached flounder with mango chutney. (LG)

**** drink or cellar
Two Hands ‘Lucky Country’ Shiraz 2006
Barossa Valley, South Australia $17.95 (0077883)
Ripe red and black fruit, fig, plum and liquorice aromas on the nose. Once on the palate, it is dry and full bodied with moderate tannins, a warm 14.7% alcohol and a long, savoury finish. A nice accompaniment would be lamb kababs marinated with rosemary, cumin and coriander seed. (LG)

****1/2 drink now
Beaulieu Vineyard Zinfandel 2005
Napa Valley, California $25.95 (0080242)
A concentrated and jammy Zin with aromas of mulberry, cassis, blackberry pie, strawberry and liquorice. Medium to full bodied and dry, it’s got nice, juicy acidity, plump 14.9% alcohol and easy-going tannins. Try this with sweet roasted duck with plums and star anise alongside chargrilled marinated vegetables. (LG)

Fortified Wine

****1/2 drink now
Gonzalez Byass ‘Apostoles’ Very Old Palo Cortado Viejo
Jerez $33.95 (969527) 375 mL
Mahogany coloured, this sports aromas of orange, caramel and hints of Christmas cake spice. It’s not as dry as one would expect, but there’s certainly good balance and flavour. The finish layers on a good zest from a marmalade flavour along with warm (20% alcohol), sweet flavours of fig and nutty nuances. This is drop-dead gorgeous paired with pan-seared foie gras dotted with kosher salt. (VH)

Sparkling Wine

****1/2 drink now
Wolf Blass Gold Label Pinot Noir/Chardonnay 2004
Australia $20.95 (0606285)
Attractive aromas of applesauce, subtle spice and biscuit. With a fine mousse, it's dry and light to medium bodied with crisp acidity and 12% alcohol. No need to wait for a special occasion to pop a bottle of this! (LG)

**** drink now
Graham Beck Blanc de Blancs ‘Premier Cuvée’ Brut 2005
WO Robertson $21.95 (0907568)
A slightly nutty nose with shortbread, citrus and applesauce. Crisp with good complexity and 12% alcohol, an active mousse brings to life the dry and medium bodied palate. This is a great example of Cap Classique, which can be a good bargain if you can manage to find it. (LG)

****1/2 drink now
Louis Bouillot ‘Perle d’Ivoire’ Blanc de Blancs Brut N/V
AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $19.95 (0048801)
Pale straw in colour, this sparkling is dry and light bodied with a great creamy mousse, zesty acidity and 12% alcohol. Aromas of grapefruit, green apple, brioche and blanched nuts give way to a fresh finish. (LG)

Ontario: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château des Charmes Vidal Icewine 2006
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $25.95 (0565861) 200 ml
Rich aromas of petrol, apple, citrus, honey and pear. Sweet and medium bodied in the mouth with low alcohol (9.5%) and balanced acidity. This would go perfectly with a simple crème brulée. (LG)

***** drink or cellar
Coyote’s Run Riesling Icewine 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $55.00 (012658) 375 mL
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Lifted aromas, dazzling flavours and an unctuous texture coalesce to mark this a stunning wine. Honeyed mandarin orange and tropical fruit aromas perfume the air while the flavours drench the palate in waves of candied pineapple, citrus peel and caramelized apricot. Robust and viscous, it cleans up with a refreshing spine of moderating acidity. Serve chilled with a peach or apricot dessert and a generous crumble of Roquefort. (VH)

Ontario: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Mike Weir Estate Cabernet/Shiraz 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.20 (0081638)
A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Shiraz, it shows complex aromas of coffee, tobacco, cocoa, spice, cedar, cherry, cassis and leather. Dry and full bodied on the palate with firm and structured tannins, 13% alcohol and a long finish. A great wine to stick in the cellar for a few more years. (LG)

California: White

**** drink or cellar
Murphy-Goode Chardonnay 2006
Sonoma County $21.95 (000745)
Starting with a subtle nose of yellow peach, ripe pear and mixed spice aromas, this settles into a well-paced offering. It’s medium in body and texture, nicely supported by a solid stream of appealing fruit flavours—Granny Smith apple, white peach and ripe citrus. It offers deft balance and a clean crisp finish. Pair it with grilled freshwater fish, pickerel or trout, under a drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)

New York: White

**** drink now
Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling 2006
Finger Lakes $24.95 (0070631)
A respectable effort from the Finger Lakes, this Riesling is a pale straw hue with a subtle citrus, petrol, herbal, apple and pear bouquet. Dry, light bodied and crisp with a clean, fruity finish and 12% alcohol. Why not try it with a simple lemon linguine topped with a touch of parmigiano and sweet basil. (LG)

California: Red

**** drink now
Bonterra Zinfandel 2005
Mendocino County, California $19.95 (0530139)
An organic wine with an upbeat bouquet of jammy black fruit, blueberry, tobacco, liquorice and earth. Dry and medium to full bodied with good acidity, 14.5% alcohol, friendly tannins and good intensity of fruit on the palate. (LG)

**** drink now
J. Lohr ‘Seven Oaks’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Paso Robles, California $39.95 (0016915) 1500 mL
Aged for 14-16 months in Hungarian and American oak barrels, this wine is packed with jammy raspberry, vanilla and sweet spice aromas. Dry and full bodied with firm tannins and a long, nutty finish. In the magnum format, this will cellar well for 4-6 years. (LG)

*** drink now
Red Truck 2006
California $16.95 (693903)
This is a bistro-styled red blend with no rough edges that delivers an uncomplicated and straightforward mouthful of ripe fruit flavours. There are aromas and flavours of cherry and raspberry with subtle hints of black plum. It's medium in weight and texture with a decent finish. It's just the wine to enjoy with grilled burgers or gourmet sausage. (VH)

Washington State: Red

**** drink or cellar
Hedges Cellars ‘CMS’ 2006
Columbia Valley $17.95 (0948992)
CMS stands for the blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah, it has delicious red berry aromatics on the nose. On the palate it's dry and full bodied with good tannin structure and 13.5% alcohol. Savoury flavours of smoke, pepper and a little spice are countered by sweeter plum, blackberry and vanilla notes. Balanced, it has the potential to age for another couple of years. (LG)

Argentina: Red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Finca El Origen Gran Reserva Malbec 2006
Valle de Uco $24.95 (065425
Classy, elegant, complex and alluring, this is from a winery in partnership with Chile’s Santa Carolina. Mixed dark berry fruit aromas and hints of toasty oak segue flavours of rich, ripe and succulent mulberry, black Bing cherry, black plum and cassis. From the high-altitude (1200 m) La Esperanza vineyard, the 14 months in French oak was seamlessly integrated. Good balance and a lengthy fruity finish make this a perfect partner with grilled venison steak. This is not to be missed. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Lurton ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2006
Mendoza $13.95 (903153)
The Lurton’s are at it again—pick up a cartful of this ripe, juicy, great-value red. Expressive aromas of dark chocolate, wild herbs and mulberry fruit waft from the glass of this full-bodied, well-textured and bursting-with-flavour Malbec—dark briary berry, sweet cassis and lashings of tangy red cherry. It’s nicely balanced, has imperceptible tannin and delivers a lengthy lip-smacking finish. Match this with all manner of grilled red meat, prepared the way you like it. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Prodigo Malbec 2005
Mendoza $15.95 (077867)
Sweet dark berry fruit and vanilla provide entry to a medium-bodied and fruit-forward Malbec. There’s a load of sweet ripe fruit with black plum, cherry and black currant up front. The medium-length finish layers on hints of mixed spice box and aromatic bitters. Pair this with pasta in a vegetarian Bolognese sauce with slow-roasted tomatoes. (VH)

Chile: Red

****1/2 drink now
Casa Silva Reserva Carmenère 2006
Colchagua Valley $14.95 (0024679)
Complex and eclectic aromas of ripe red fruit, bell pepper, peppercorn, vanilla and plum along with a little bay leaf/menthol character. Dry with a full mouth feel it is given some shape by moderate tannins and 13.5% alcohol. Terrific value. If you're looking for a food match, try blackened barbecued pork fillets. (LG)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Haras Character Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Maipo Valley $19.95 (0054502)
A striking deep ruby colour, with the fragrance of mulberry, cassis, juicy black fruit, violet and vanilla. Dry and full bodied in the mouth with 14.5% alcohol, moderate tannins and an overall pretty, feminine character. (LG)

****1/2 drink now two glasses
Santa Carolina ‘Barrica Selection’ Gran Reserva Carmenère 2006
Rapel Valley $14.95 (0640888)
Carmenère headlines this blend with 12% Cabernet Sauvignon thrown in for good measure. Juicy red fruit, pomegranate, dates, fig and pepper aromas. Dry, full bodied and 14.5% alcohol, there's more black fruit jammed in on the palate. Excellent value, it definitely gets extra brownie points for the price. Vic and I both loved this wine. (LG)

**** cellar
Santa Ema Amplus Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Cachapoal Valley $22.95 (076307)
Mint, wild herbs and spice box on the nose, this delivers gorgeous fruit flavours of cassis, red cherry and black currant that are wrapped in a firm tannin structure. The fruit was hand picked then aged 12 months in French oak, 70% new. It’s medium to full bodied and complex, finishing lengthy, dry and dusty. Lay this away and drink 2011 to 2015 alongside grilled leg of lamb. (VH)

Australia White

**** drink or cellar
Lillypilly ‘Noble Blend’ 2006
Riverina, New South Wales $24.95 (0015255) 375 mL
A bargain of a sticky, this medium lemon coloured dessert wine includes concentrated marmalade, apple, honey, pineapple and floral aromas. A medium-sweet and medium to full bodied treat on the palate, with soft acidity and low alcohol (11%). This could be really nice with a classic bread pudding. (LG)

Australia: Red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Amadio Reserve ‘Block 2A’ Shiraz 2005
Adelaide Hills, South Australia $39.95 (0072843)
The Block 2A Reserve Shiraz is aged in French and American oak for 18 months. Showing off with notes of black fruit, cedar, anise and pepper, it's dry and full bodied with 14.5% alcohol, moderate tannins, good balance and a juicy finish. A nice match for this wine would be a lamb rib risotto topped with a little rosemary and crumbled stilton. (LG)

**** drink or cellar
Wolf Blass ‘Gold Label’ Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc 2005
Adelaide Hills, South Australia $31.95 (0590265)
Fairly intense in both colour and flavours, this juice is dry and full bodied with moderate tannins and aromas of cherry candies, eucalyptus/mint, black fruit, smoke, vanilla and dust. This is all moderated by a splash of acidity and weighs in at 14.5% alcohol. (LG)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Wynns Coonawarra Estate Shiraz 2006
Coonawarra, South Australia $20.95 (433060)
Vanilla, hints of black pepper and oaky notes intermingle with ripe berry aromas on the lifted nose. It’s medium bodied and full of concentrated and well balanced flavour—Bing cherry, milk chocolate and a mélange of ripe and juicy berry fruit. It’s a flavourful cool-climate red with a lingering finish of red berry fruit and toasty oak flavours. Lovely sipped on its own, it pairs exceptionally well with crown roast of pork and roasted root veggies. (VH)

New Zealand: White

**** drink now
Kim Crawford Unoaked Chardonnay 2007
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (991950)
Tropical fruit and spiced yellow plum on the nose, this delivers sweet ripe tree fruit flavours—yellow peach, nectarine, Royal Gala apple and pear—that glide along on an ultra-smooth creamy texture. It’s medium weight and provides a crisp clean finish brimming with zesty citrus flavours. With the first glass as delicious as the third, it’s great on its own or when paired with lightly herbed and spiced chicken, veal or seafood dishes. (VH)

New Zealand: Red

**** drink now
Kim Crawford Pinot Noir 2007
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (0626390)
With a nose of cassis, red currant, vanilla, strawberry and leaves, this NZ Pinot is dry and medium bodied with bright acidity and 13% alcohol. Balanced and tasteful, the sleek tannins are followed by fresh red fruit on the finish. (LG)

****1/2 drink now
Sileni ‘The Triangle’ Merlot 2006
Hawkes Bay, North Island $18.95 (0586081)
A piece of useless trivia for your next cocktail party, this winery was named after the half-man half-horse creatures called 'sileni' (similar to satyrs) from Roman mythology who hung around with Bacchus, drinking wine and playing flutes and lyres. This medium bodied and nicely balanced wine flaunts pepper, spice, cherry, cassis, strawberry jam and cedar aromas. Dry and 14% alcohol, it is supple, plush and curvy. For an interesting match, try it with a herbed-lamb moussaka. (LG)

South Africa: White

****1/2 drink now
KWV Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay 2005
WO Coastal Region $14.95 (328559)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Not for the faint of heart, there's smoke and oak on the nose before delivering a huge mouthful of delicious flavour on a full-bodied and hugely textured frame. On the palate there's a tsunami wave of expressive flavours that includes buttery oak, green apple, racy lemon zest plus ripe yellow peach and pear. The finish goes on and on, as do I... pick up an armful. (VH)

South Africa: Red

***1/2 drink or cellar
Cathedral Cellar ‘Tryptych’ 2006
WO Coastal Region $16.95 (053124)
There are oodles of campfire and tarry notes on the nose of this rich and sweet full bodied red blend and they’re omnipresent in the flavours and finish. Ripe and sweet briary berry and jammy black raspberry flavours are nicely framed by supple tannin and red cherry tang. The finish is rich and concentrated needing a hearty partner—try boeuf bourguignon with bacon added or smoked and bar-b-cued back ribs. (VH)

French: White

Alsace

**** drink now
Domaine Fernand Engel Gewürztraminer Reserve 2005
AOC Alsace $22.95 (0080481)
Opening with apple, sweet spice, lychee syrup and wet straw notes, this Alsacian beauty is dry and medium bodied with a ripe 13% alcohol, moderate acidity and lemon candy flavours on the palate. The simplest way of matching this Gewürz to food? Go back to basics and pair it with traditional Alsacian cuisine. (LG)

**** drink or cellar
Léon Beyer Riesling ‘Les Ecaillers’ 2005
AOC Alsace $29.95 (0955401)
This wine possesses beautiful aromatics of honeysuckle, floral, citrus, lime blossom and petrol. Dry, light bodied and 12.5% alcohol, the palate features mouth-watering acidity and loads of lime popsicle/Kool-Aid flavours. A perfect accompaniment to coriander and baby greens salad with a lime and green mango vinaigrette. (LG)

Burgundy

***1/2 drink or cellar
Château de Meursault Meursault 2005
AOC Meursault $56.95 (520213)
There’s much less oak apparent than previous vintages and it has enhanced the wine. It begins with a quiet nose of citrus and floral notes then provides a stream of ripe tropical fruit flavours with honeydew melon, guava and pineapple to the fore. It’s quite plush in the mouth and medium in weight. It finishes lengthy and a little shy of acidity. This pours well alongside roast chicken. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Isabell et Denis Pommier Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet 2006
AOC Chablis $37.95 (0023747)
The Côte de Léchet vineyard is located on a steep, pebbly slope and is known to produce wines with elegant minerality and a focused core of acidity. A portion of the wines are also barrel fermented, adding soft nuances of oak and a round and luxurious texture. This wine features touches of coffee, lemon, pear and pineapple on the nose. On the palate it's dry, full bodied and 12.5% alcohol with balanced acidity and a long, nutty finish. This is a wine that will improve with another 3-5 years of bottle age. (LG)

France: Red

Bordeaux

***** cellar
Château Brillette ‘Comte du Perier de Larsan’ Cru Bourgeois Supérieur 2003
AOC Moulis-en-Médoc $42.95 (0086652)
A blend of 52% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot. Rich and complex aromas of coffee, cocoa, leather, animal and spice followed by a dry and muscular 13% alcohol palate, with well-built tannins and a long flavourful finish. (LG)

**** drink or cellar
Château Preuillac 2005
AOC Médoc $29.95 (0713925)
Fresh red fruit aromas on the nose. On the palate it’s a dry and full bodied wine with grippy tannins, 13% alcohol and notes of cassis, black cherry, pepper and liquorice. This is classic Bordeaux for a very reasonable price. (LG)

****1/2 drink now
Domaine des Graves D’Ardonneau ‘Cuvée Prestige’ 2005
AOC Premières Côtes de Blaye $24.95 (0087692)
This is a blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon that spent 12 months in French oak. With a bouquet of red cherry, cassis, blueberry, plum, spice and vanilla, it's dry and full bodied on the palate with moderate tannins and 13.5% alcohol. Some of the best-value reds in Bordeaux can be found within the Premières Côtes de Blaye appellation, and this ‘Cuvée Prestige’ is a great example. (LG)

Loire

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon 2006
AOC Chinon $19.95 (0940783)
This winery boasts hand-picked grapes with no herbicides used. Red cherry, earth, leather and red liquorice aromas are followed by a palate that is dry and medium bodied with restrained cherry fruit. Well-structured tannins, balanced acidity and 13% alcohol. A suggestion would be to try this lovely Chinon with an oven-baked rigatoni with wild boar salami. (LG)

Midi

**** drink or cellar
Domaine Hegarty-Chamans ‘Cuvée 2’ 2004
AOC Minervois $23.95 (079038)
This is 70% Grenache, 20% Carignan, 10% Syrah and weighs in at a healthy 14.5% alcohol. Herbaceous and minty on the nose, the flavours are in the ripe red currant and spicy red plum zones. It’s nicely textured and medium weight with a medium-length finish redolent of mint-chocolate cherries. It’s well balanced with good moderating acidity throughout. Serve braised short ribs when your pour this. (VH)

Italy: Red

****1/2 cellar
Travaglini Gattinara 2003
DOCG Gattinara, Piemonte $29.95 (0713354)
Medium brick verging on russet colour. Dry and full bodied with well-built tannins and bright acidity. Notes of cherry juice, delicate floral, earth and dried herbs. 13.5% alcohol. For a nice pairing, try this with aubergine parmigiana. (LG)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Antinori ‘Pian delle Vigne’ Brunello di Montalcino 2003
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany $63.95 (0651141)
This deep garnet-coloured gem is left unfiltered, showing nuances of fig, sweet spice, tobacco, clove, red currant, prune, raisin and vanilla. Dry and full bodied with 13.5% alcohol, quality tannins fall away to a dried fruit finish. (LG)

**** drink or cellar
Fontodi Chianti Classico 2005
DOCG Toscana $27.95 (933317)
There are leather, dried fruit and herbs on the aromatic nose. It offers a taut and steady stream of moderating acidity via flavours of sour cherry and cranberry that balance nicely with a solid mid palate of succulent black briary berry flavours. There are supple tannins present, but not in the way, as they add structure and interest to this well-paced, medium-weight red. Pair it with a seafood and chorizo paella. (VH)

**** drink now
Frascole Chianti Rufina 2005
DOCG Chianti Rufina, Tuscany $18.95 (0085167)
A nice and gritty, very old-world nose of animal, sweat and earth. Medium bodied and 13% alcohol with smooth tannins and cherry fruit on the palate. This is most definitely a food wine - the perfect partner for this rustic Tuscan would be game ragù with pappardelle. (LG)

***** drink or cellar
Le Serre Nuove Dell’Ornellaia 2006
DOC Bolgheri $59.95 (606194)
This second label (at a third of the price) of world-famous ‘Super Tuscan’, Ornellaia, will take you by storm. It’s complex, rich and saturated with succulent fruit and a bracing tang. Mixed herbs and spice, cherry and leather on the nose, it offers up a gusher of flavours with Bing cherry, red currant and mulberry predominant. The tannins are dry and dusty, but manageable, while the weight and texture are generous. There’s deft balance and good depth on the lingering finish. Drink now, after a three-hour aeration/decant, and on to 2018. This is an excellent addition to a carefully chosen cellar. (VH)

****1/2 cellar
Luce Della Vite Luce 2005
IGT Toscana $99.95 (685263)
A blend of 55% Sangiovese and 45% Merlot, this is full bodied and richly textured. Expressive aromas of black licorice, mocha and dark berry fruit segue concentrated flavours of black raspberry, cassis and dark chocolate that percolate throughout. It’s well balanced and sports a fruit-forward lingering finish that introduces firm tannins and hints of mixed spice. Drink 2012 to 2018 alongside braised short ribs or osso bucco. (VH)

Spain: Red

**** drink or cellar
Capçanes Costers del Gravet 2005
DO Montsant $25.95 (707059)
Montsant is a newly minted wine region offering primarily red grapes with the three in this blend—Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and Carignan, amongst the most-widely planted. It begins with a quiet nose of cigar box and red berry fruit then shifts into gear with a firm tannin structure and persistent offering of pie cherry, red currant and spiced red plum flavours. There is a generous ladleful of acidity that is juxtaposed to sweet berry fruit on a lengthy well-balanced finish. Aerate/decant for two hours before serving. (VH)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: November 8, 2008

****1/2 drink or cellar
Beckett’s Flat Shiraz 2004
Margaret River, Western Australia $22.95 (585869)
This is from a small family-owned and run winery using only estate-grown fruit from this premiere Aussie wine region. Expressive aromas of spice, hints of black pepper, and ripe dark berry fruit segue complex and concentrated flavours of sweet succulent berry fruit—mulberry, black currant and black plum. It’s medium bodied with a creamy mouth feel and a lengthy well-balanced finish. Pick up three or more, it’s delicious and good value. (VH)

Vintages Release: December 6, 2008

**** drink or cellar
Dornier ‘Donatus’ 2004
WO Stellenbosch $24.95 (606020)
This red blend, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, was aged 18 months in new French oak. There are mixed spice, smoky oak and aromatic bitters aromas on the alluring nose. The flavours are expressive and concentrated with succulent dark cherry, cassis and hints of tar to the fore. It’s medium in weight and texture sporting ripe supple tannin and a lingering nicely balanced finish of sweet (14.5% alcohol) rich dark berry fruit flavours. (VH)

Vintages Release: Spring 2009

****1/2 drink or cellar
Barossa Valley Estate E & E ‘Black Pepper’ Shiraz 2004
Barossa Valley, Australia $99.95 (731620)
Elegant and concentrated, it’s ready to drink now and has the ability to age to 2015. The ’04 vintage was chosen from only two vineyards from the 80+ group of growers that form this cooperative. This low-production (1000 cases) red is from dry-grown, low-yield, sixty-year-old vines, aged 18 months in American and French oak, a 50/50 split, only 30% new. Warm, sweet (14.2% alcohol) and seductive flavours of briary berry, dark chocolate and tarry notes abound in this plush-textured medium bodied gem. It finishes well balanced and lengthy, layering on dark berry fruit flavours and notes of espresso roast. (VH)

New in Vintages

**** drink or cellar
Rocca delle Macie Chianti Classico 2006
DOCG Chianti Classico $18.95 (741769)
Dusty, earthy and dried fruit aromas form the involved nose while the flavours deliver a gorgeous mouthful of rich red berry fruit—pie cherry and red currant up front. It’s deftly balanced and nicely textured, look for ripe and supple tannins and a lingering zesty finish. This pairs particularly well with pasta puttanesca. It’s a ‘Vintages Essentials’ product—always available in selected LCBO stores. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Duca di Castelmonte ‘Cent’are’ Nero d’Avola 2006
IGT Sicilia $14.95 (546192)
Hailing from the southern tip of Sicily, Nero d’Avola is often favourably compared to Shiraz. A crowd-pleasing gem, this opens with expressive aromas and flavours of kirsch liqueur, ripe black currant and spiced black plum. It’s ready to drink, well-structured, medium bodied, fully textured and sports a lingering, well balanced and lip-smacking finish. This 'Vintages Essentials' product, always available in selected LCBO retail locations, is one of the best-value wines in the category. (VH)

New in the LCBO

Australia

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Banrock Station ‘Unwooded’ Chardonnay 2007
South Eastern Australia $10.95 (455022)
Ginger-infused citrus aromas mingle with nuances of tropical fruit on the alluring nose of this Aussie white. It’s refreshing and crisp on the palate and certainly doesn’t lack fruit as it delivers a lovely mouthful of warm (13.3% alcohol) tree fruit flavours—pear, apple, and lemon. It’s light to medium bodied, generously textured and punches well above the price. Pair with all manner of lightly herbed and spiced fish, chicken or veal. (VH)

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Banrock Station Shiraz 2006
South Eastern Australia $11.95 (455014)
Spice box, dark berry fruit and nuances of cherry cordial on the nose, it hits the palate with a persistent salvo of sweet and ripe cherry and cassis flavours that are nicely balanced with some moderating acidity on the generous finish. Medium in weight and texture, it provides a nice quaffing red at a more than fair price. It pairs well with grilled red meats, pasta in meat and tomato sauce, or meat-laden pizza. (VH)

Champagne, France

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Charles Heidsieck ‘Brut Réserve’ Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $55.50 (36962)
From the house of Charles-Camille Heidsieck a.k.a. ‘Champagne Charlie’, comes this stunningly complex Champagne that has the depth and concentration of Vintage Champagne, without the price tag. It was bottled in 2003 and disgorged in ’06. Very deep yellow with a persistent stream of froth, this delivers a lovely attack on the palate of crisp and refreshing ripe citrus and Granny Smith apple flavours. It’s fully textured and delivers a racy finish. Paired mine with oysters Pernod and it was delicious. (VH)

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Piper-Heidsieck ‘Cuvée Brut’ Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $57.65 (462432)
This is elegant and light on its feet with an expressive nose of white flowers, citrus and hints of baking bread. An even-split blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, it’s light bodied and nicely textured delivering a refreshing mouthful of froth. The flavours include lemon zest and green apple and they’re persistent through the medium-length finish. This is a perfect aperitif or it can be paired with seafood or chicken appetizers. (VH)

Chile

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Santa Carolina Chardonnay 2007
Casablanca $10.95 (304022)
Meticulous vine and winemaking management coalesced here—estate grown, drip irrigated, harvested in two stages two weeks apart, 10% barrel fermented in new oak, left on lees for four months with regular lees stirring, no induced malolactic. This is a medium-weight, nicely textured mouthful of ripe citrus, binned apple and vanilla flavours. There are sweet vanilla and spice aromas on the nose that carry through to the crisp and clean, well-balanced finish. This delivers a lot of wine at a very reasonable price. (VH)

Italy

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Rocca delle Macie ‘Straccali’ Chianti Classico 2006
DOCG Chianti Classico $16.60 (19695)
This is a classy red with oodles of rich, dark and concentrated flavours—cassis, spiced Bing cherry and black raspberry. It’s medium bodied with a firm mouth feel. There’s good balance, perceptible tannin and a lengthy finish along with lashings of French oak; it saw 12 months in barrel. Lasagna and spaghetti Bolognese both pair well. (VH)

New Zealand

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Coopers Creek ‘Fat Cat’ Chardonnay 2006
New Zealand $14.90 (576124)
Vanilla, hints of toasty oak and binned apple aromas waft from the glass of this medium-bodied nicely textured Kiwi. Flavours of warm (13.5% alcohol), sweet tropical fruit, ripe apple and pear abound on the palate and persist through the lingering finish. It’s deftly balanced and pairs well with roast chicken. A portion of the purchase price will be donated to the Ontario Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. (VH)

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Coopers Creek ‘Sally Cat’ Pinot Noir 2006
New Zealand $14.95 (610667)
A portion of the purchase price will be donated to the Ontario Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. Spice box, cherry Kool-aid and kirsch liqueur aromas open up this medium-weight and nicely textured Pinot. The flavours on the palate are quite sweet—cherry cordial and maraschino cherry—while the finish layers on some zest and tang for balance. It’s light to medium bodied and drinks better with food rather than without; try roast beef in a Port-reduction sauce. (VH)

South Africa

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Durbanville Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2007
WO Durbanville $11.95 (22251)
Herbs, nettles and gooseberry on the nose, this delivers a generous gusher of white grapefruit flavour with hints of fig and honeydew melon. It’s nicely textured and medium bodied while the finish layers on a crisp bite of lime. Enjoyed mine paired with Sambuca-marinated and prosciutto-wrapped grilled prawns. (VH)

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Durbanville Hills Shiraz 2005
WO Durbanville $11.95 (22269)
This opens with an expressive nose of smoky (as in campfire), oaky and tarry aromas that make their way into the flavours. The flavours are quite involved with ripe red juicy berry fruit, spice box and moderating zest and tang through the medium-length finish. It was aged twelve months in new and seasoned French and American oak. This hits its straps with smoked meat—duck breasts or bar-b-qued ribs. (VH)

New in Ontario Wineries

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Colio Estate Baco Noir 2007
VQA Ontario $9.35 (559179)
Loads of toasty, oaky and spice box aromas on the nose while the fruit flavours—raspberry jam, spiced black plum and black currant—are ripe and with gamy nuances. There’s also good acidity to balance off the residual sugar (2 g/l). It’s a big wine in flavour, weight and texture and deserves a hearty dish to match; pair this with chili con carne, osso bucco or boeuf bourguignon. Available from Colio Estates and their many winery retail stores. For daily home or office delivery, by the case, e-mail Gord Weber This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (VH)

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Colio Estate Gamay Noir 2007
VQA Ontario $11.55 ( 597980)
The nose is quite subtle, but there are aromas of lilac, black currant and leafy tobacco in this bistro-styled red. It delivers a lovely mouthful of tang and zest expressed in sour cherry, cranberry and minty notes. Medium weight and textured, it’s ready to drink and shows best alongside traditional deli foods—sliced smoked meats, black olives and tapenade. Available from Colio Estates and their many winery retail stores. For daily home or office delivery, by the case, e-mail Gord Weber This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (VH)

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Colio Estate Marechal Foch 2007
VQA Ontario $9.35 (277459)
There are interesting aromas of cigar box, spice and dark berry fruit on the nose while flavours are fruit-forward and persistent—pie cherry, red currant and cranberry are predominant. There’s good acidity for balance and the tannin is perceptible on the finish. It’s a well-priced hybrid red that shines with rich cuisine and strong cheeses. Pair with coq au vin or La Sauvagine cheese from Quebec. Available from Colio Estates and their many winery retail stores. For daily home or office delivery, by the case, e-mail Gord Weber This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (VH)

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Lailey Vineyard Cabernet-Merlot 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.00
Poured this alongside thirty or more wines at a charity event recently, it was clearly the 'people's pick'. Aromas of mint, dark berry and spice segue rich and focused flavours of red currant and ripe cherry with undertones of leafy tobacco and pie cherry tang. It's medium in weight and texture and everyone enjoyed it on its own and with bison burgers. Winemaker Derek Barnett crafted an exceptionally delicious wine in this challenging vintage. Order by the case for daily office and home delivery from Lailey. (VH)

Cheers, Lindsay and Vic

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar