winecurrent.com
September 13th, 2008 Vintages Release

Winecurrent.com delivers a comprehensive and complete review of the Vintages Release wines tasted. No short cuts, no skimping, just honest and complete reviews of the wines that were made available for tasting at the LCBO, earning 3 stars and above, to help you make your selections.

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature on wine from the four Ontario VQA wine regions followed by a mini-feature on wine under Italy’s Indicazione geografica tipica (IGT) classification. The familiar country/region format follows in the 'Main Release' with wines reviewed in the order they appear in the Vintages Release brochure.

Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:
  • Winecurrent visited a number of premium Niagara wineries, tasting though barrel samples, '07 whites and '06 reds in the bottle. Be on the cutting edge with winery profiles and timely reviews in this first installment. Read more...
  • Fortified wines signal fall and winter on the horizon; there are 4 gems reviewed
  • New world reds dazzle; there’s a 4 star from Chile for only $12.95
  • Old world reds shine—a 5 star from the Rhône and a 4 star at $13.95 from Spain
  • Looking for whites? Check out Niagara, Germany and a beauty from Italy
  • New in the LCBO —after the Main Release— showcases three value-plus wines
An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Niagara Feature

***1/2 drink now
Mike Weir Estate Pinot Grigio 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.15 (043364)
The first thing you’ll notice is the lovely pink hue from minimal skin contact during pressing—this is a grape that comes in many different shades. Mixed spice and floral notes drift off the subdued nose while the expressive and racy flavours really explode on the palate—ripe citrus, white peach and hints of pear are evident. The crisp and clean finish portends a lovely pairing with steamed mussels in a curried cream sauce. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Hillebrand ‘Trius’ Red 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (303800)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This is a 'Vintages Essentials' wine; it should always be available in (selected) LCBO stores. The blend is 41.5% Merlot, 29.5% Cabernet Franc, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon and the aromas and flavours are all about concentrated tangy ripe, red fruit—cranberry, cherry, plum and currant, infused with savoury spice. It's medium to full bodied, fully textured, with a long warm fruity finish. Very good value. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Jackson-Triggs ‘Proprietors’ Reserve’ Shiraz 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (089359)
There are more tightly focused Rhône-like Syrah characteristics in this ‘Niagara Wine of the Month’ than Aussie Shiraz fruit bombs. Aromas of dried dark berry fruit, spice and herbs abound. The flavours consist of pie cherry, spice-infused cranberry and ripe pomegranate. It’s medium textured, light to medium in weight and finishes tangy and full of zest, but still well balanced. This is best enjoyed with a tomato-based dish like lasagna, or Swiss steak. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Cave Spring Estate Riesling 2006
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $18.00 (286377)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) The 20 year old vines that produced this fruity off dry gem also provide a bracing spine of acidity to deftly balance it. A nose of citrussy mineral aromas segue to a luscious mouthful of flavours—honeycomb, white grapefruit and a hint of anise. The racy finish is laser-like and extremely refreshing. A perfect aperitif wine, it's also perfectly paired with a piquant Thai dish like spicy fish cakes. (VH)

**** drink now
Featherstone ‘Black Sheep’ Riesling 2007
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $17.15 (080234)
Involved and expressive aromas of mineral, peach and floral notes form the alluring nose while the flavours are a huge gusher of flavour and zesty tang in the key lime and sweet and juicy pit fruit zones. It’s fully textured and sports a nicely balanced finish exhibiting that sweet and tang sensation that pairs so well with spicy Asian – try it poured alongside curried chicken. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Malivoire Chardonnay 2006
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (573147)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Meticulous winemaking procedures—hand picked, whole cluster pressed, partial French oak barrel fermentation, full malolactic conversion and lees ageing for eight months—coalesced with eco-friendly vine management producing this medium-bodied fully textured gem. Expressive aromas, grapefruit and apple compote, segue a gorgeous array of fruit flavours with pineapple, ripe citrus and muskmelon predominant. The crisp clean finish lingers. Pair with roast pork tenderloin stuffed with dried apricots and cranberries. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Thirty Bench Riesling 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $18.20 (024133)
Very crisp and lip-smacking good, this gem starts off with pungent mineral and citrus aromas that are followed by a gorgeous rush of expressive and zesty flavours that include white grapefruit, ripe lemon-lime and plenty of mixed tree fruit flavours—green apple, pear, and hints of herbs and spice. Light to medium bodied with a heady and crisp finish, this pairs well with Alsatian onion tart. (VH)

**** drink now
Henry of Pelham Gamay 2007
VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (291112)
The Don Rickles of the wine world, Gamay commands little respect, but it’s an unfair knock, especially in Niagara, where good, even very good, Gamay is produced. Earthy, gamey and spice box on the nose, you’ll discover lots going on in this medium-textured, medium-bodied red. Look for flavours of sweet ripe berry fruit supported by perceptible tannin—adds structure, with moderating acidity giving balance. A bistro-styled red, serve with burgers or pizza. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Château des Charmes ‘St. David’s Bench Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2005
VQA St. David’s Bench, Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (430991)
Barrel fermented and barrel aged, this rested gracefully in Tronçais French oak for 12 months after undergoing full malolactic fermentation. Mineral notes, toasty oak and mixed spice aromas on the nose, there is a cornucopia of flavours with ripe pear, Granny Smith apple and bright and racy citrus predominant. It’s well balanced, medium bodied and nicely textured with a lingering finish. Match this with stuffed crown roast of pork. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Inniskillin ‘Montague Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (586347)
This is a round and ready white that’s light bodied, medium textured and nicely positioned as an aperitif (only 12% alcohol) or for matching with light appetizers. You’ll find aromas and flavours of sweet ripe fruit—peach, nectarine and apple—that are well balanced with citrus flavours, especially on the clean and refreshing finish. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Jackson-Triggs ‘Delaine Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (623454)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Quite charismatic, this expresses finesse and elegance on its firm and focused medium-bodied frame. It's well structured and medium textured with Granny Smith apple and white grapefruit flavours on the palate. The finish is well balanced with nuances of well-integrated French oak along with a lovely clean and refreshing hit of zippy citrus and honeydew melon. Pour alongside Chicken Kiev. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Colio State ‘CEV’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $19.95 (619510)
Lifted aromas of smoky oak, black licorice and minty black cherry drift off this medium-bodied creamy textured gem. There’s a rich concentrated stream of expressive fruit flavours—black cherry and currant—overlaid with exotic spices and a generous dollop of balancing tang. The tannins are perceptible, but supple. The finish is medium in length with definite hints of herbs and mint. Drink now to 2012 alongside a slab of beefsteak grilled rare to medium rare. (VH)

Italy ‘IGT’ Feature

***1/2 drink or cellar
Banfi ‘Centine’ 2006
IGT Toscana $17.95 (947440)
There’s considerable tang and zest in the flavours of this light to medium-bodied taut red blend—60% Sangiovese, and 20% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. There are red berry fruit aromas along with wisps of toasty notes that reflect the six months spent in oak. The racy sour cherry and red currant fruit flavours are still wound up with perceptible tannin. It’s medium textured and light to medium in weight with a dry clean finish. Pair with spaghetti Bolognese. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Ornellaia ‘Le Volte” 2006
IGT Toscana $25.95 (964221)
One of the more popular ‘Super Tuscans’—so-named because they chose to blend in grape varieties (Merlot and Cabernet) that fell outside the appellation regulations; they now have their own ‘IGT’ designation. This one shows aromas of cherry and licorice while the flavours are very zesty and chockfull of tang. Sour cherry, cranberry and pomegranate flavours are nicely supported by a supple tannin structure. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Apollonio ‘Valle Cupa’ 2001
IGT Salento Rosso $20.95 (084046)
This is a gorgeous effort that delivers on all counts, and then some. Earthy, toasty and smoked bacon aromas rip off the glass of this medium-bodied fully textured red blend. There’s a wave of cassis, spice box and black raspberry flavours that carry through to the lengthy, fruit-forward, but balanced finish. A somewhat hedonistic tasting experience, it will still be drinking well into 2012. (VH)

**** drink now
Allegrini ‘Palazzo Della Torre’ 2004
IGT Veronese $24.95 (672931)
Look for an expressive nose and gobs of sweet jammy fruit flavours in this medium-weight, medium-textured drink-me-now blend. Aromas of mocha and dark berry fruit form the lifted nose while there’s an explosion of ripe and juicy black raspberry jam and sweet black plum compote flavours on the palate. It finishes with a lingering replay of those expressive flavours along with a dollop of ripe black cherry. (VH)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine

****1/2 drink now
El Maestro Sierra Pedro Ximenez Sherry
DO Jerez, Spain $22.95 (069534)
Amazing that a relatively young Solera—the oldest wine in this being only15-years old—can produce such an unctuous dessert wine. Bronze coloured, almost brown, this delivers a creamy mouthful of caramel, peel marmalade, dried figs and raisin flavours. It finishes nutty and lengthy. Have a glass, probably no more than two, with hard aged cheese, cheddar or Parmigiano Reggiano. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Emilio Lustau ‘East India Solera’ Sherry
DO Jerez, Spain $16.95 (713636)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) When you see "Lustau" on a wine, it is akin to a gold seal of approval. This perennial favourite is showing toffee, raisin and caramel on the nose coupled with a most scrumptious mélange of sweet fig, raisin and nutty flavours. Dense and intense, deftly balanced, the effect is amazing. Serve this dessert wine chilled; either on its own or matched to crème caramel, crème brûlée or any manner of dark spiced fruit cake. Stock up and drink over the next two years. (VH)

**** drink now
Dow’s Late Bottled Vintage Port 2003
DOC Douro, Portugal $18.95 (613927)
This is well-priced and offers a Port that’s drinking well now and that’ll continue to do so for the next couple of years. There are oodles of spice and dried fruit on the nose—black currant and raisin—while the palate is treated to a medium-weight LBV that offers a delicious and lip-smacking gusher of sweet and juicy black berry fruit and candied cherry flavours. This is a lovely accompaniment with aged hard cheeses or dark chocolate desserts. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Dow’s ‘Quinta Do Bomfim’ Vintage Port 1996
DOC Douro, Portugal $49.95 (487850)
Do Bomfim (good end) is the premium Quinta for Dow; this was produced from low-yielding vines within a premium single vineyard in an average vintage year. However, it’s terrific value given its provenance. Dusty, earthy and spice box aromas segue this medium-weight and medium-textured fortified red. The flavours are all about sweet berry fruit, figs and raisins. The finish lingers and provides enough acidity and tannin for balance and structure. Drink this over the next eight or ten years. (VH)

California: White

****1/2 drink or cellar
Hagafen Chardonnay 2007
Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley $28.95 (011502)
Licorice, tropical fruit and vanilla aromas open this very friendly, round and smooth Chardonnay. Medium weight and texture, it delivers lovely fruit flavours with peach, pear and apple up front with hints of pineapple and citrus layered on the lengthy and well-balanced finish. It pairs extremely well with Cornish game hens stuffed with dried nectarines and dried apricots, and offers good value. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Newton ‘Red Label’ Chardonnay 2005
Sonoma and Napa County $27.95 (067439)
This is deftly balanced, exhibiting a glorious array of aromas and flavours. Rich, layered and gorgeous, the expressive aromas include yellow peach, pineapple and ripe citrus. The flavours are a replay of the aromas, integrating the oak and warm sweet fruit flavours (15.5% alcohol) extremely well. Pair with roast turkey or game bird. This is worth every penny. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Toasted Head Chardonnay 2005
Russian River Valley $22.95 (686840)
They toast the ends a.k.a. ‘heads’ of the barrels, not just the sides, as is usually done. This is also bigger and fleshier than most with aromas of mixed spice and citrus followed by a solid display of fruit flavours—green apple, pineapple and spiced yellow plum to the fore. Medium bodied, fully textured and fairly well balanced, this deserves to be served alongside a special bird, consider this for Thanksgiving dinner. (VH)

California: Red

**** drink now
Blackstone Merlot 2005
California $19.95 (606327)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Spice and smoky aromas billow off this magical Merlot. Ripe (but perceptible) tannins for structure, spiced black plum, chocolate and hints of cassis flavours and a perfectly balanced and lengthy finish coalesce in this medium-bodied well-priced red. Great quaffing on its own, it's paired perfectly when served with roast beef, horseradish, gravy and garlicky mash. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Clos du Val Pinot Noir 2005
Carneros, Napa Valley $32.95 (003384)
Think ‘new world’ as the style for this—it’s mostly about sweet ripe fruit, fully textured with only enough acidity to provide balance—as opposed to one from ‘old world’ Burgundy. The aromas are quite delicate with ripe berry fruit and hints of leather while the flavours are sweet mulberry and black cherry fruit. It’s all underpinned by perceptible tannin that would benefit from a two-hour aeration/decant before serving. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Innisfree Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Napa Valley $28.95 (038125)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) The 2005 California vintage has been characterized by long-ageing Cabs with generous amounts of fruit flavours—this gem fits that general description. You'll discover aromas and sweet fruit flavours galore here, but it's far from jammy. In fact, it's deftly balanced by moderating acidity, rich in black berry fruit (black currant to the fore), spice box and mocha flavours, and offers good structure from ripe tannins. In summary, it's powerful with touches of elegance. Drink now to 2015. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Jax Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Napa Valley $59.95 (067256)
This is rich and concentrated with elements of elegance; it also flirted with five stars. Look for expressive and heady aromas of mint, black licorice and sweet berry fruit that introduce this medium-weight California Cab. There’s wave after wave of richly textured flavours with cassis, black briary berry and spiced black Damson plum predominant. There’s good grip from perceptible, but acceptable, tannin and a lingering well-balanced finish that delivers moderating acidity and hints of Bing cherry. (VH)

**** drink now
White Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Napa Valley $35.95 (684233)
There’s a touch of Merlot (7%) in this meticulously made Cab—hand-picked, 20 months in 60% new oak and left unclarified. There’s also considerable tannin requiring time to tame; drink 2011 to 2018. It’s bold and expressive with focused aromas of flavours in the Bing cherry and black briary berry zones with clove and cinnamon in the background. It’s well balanced and medium in weight and texture. You could drink it now after a three-hour aeration / decant alongside a grilled rare to medium-rare beefsteak. (VH)

Mexico: Red

*** drink now
L.A. Cetto Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California $10.95 (405597)
The price is certainly inviting and the wine delivers a round and ready mouthful of uncomplicated crowd-pleasing red wine. The aromas and flavours are mixed field berry with hints of spice. It exhibits almost no perceptible tannin, is medium weight and medium textured with a balanced and fruity finish. Bistro-styled, this will pair with all manner of deli meats, burgers and pizzas. (VH)

Argentina: Red

**** drink now
Navarro Correas ‘Coleccion Privada’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Mendoza $14.95 (028910)
Herbaceous and zippy aromas segue this sweet and rich medium-bodied and nicely textured Cab. Look for flavours of sweet bramble berry and exotic spice that are nicely juxtaposed with pie cherry and cranberry. It’s ready to drink and the finish is well balanced and medium in length. It earned its final half star on the favourable price-quality ratio. (VH)

Chile: Red

**** drink or cellar
Intriga Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Maipo Valley $19.95 (057901)
This is a big wine, from its purple-hued (almost opaque) colour, grainy grippy tannin structure and perceptible oak ageing to its lengthy concentrated finish; it’s not for the faint of heart. Aromas of cedar, berry fruit and black licorice waft off the glass of this full-bodied and fully textured behemoth. The sweet and succulent flavours are redolent of black cherry and black raspberry, as well as espresso roast. Drink now, after a three-hour aeration / decant, and on to 2015 with grilled rib eye. (VH)

**** drink now
Santa Carolina 'Barrica Selection Gran Reserva' Merlot 2006
DO Rapel Valley, Chile $14.95 (27276)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Expressive aromas of black Damson plum and black cherry segue into flavours of approachable and warm black currant, spiced dark field berry and more plum. Round and ready for early consumption, this is medium bodied and nicely structured with ripe tannin and moderating acidity. The lingering finish layers on flavours of dark chocolate and hints of vanilla. This is very good value and is worthy of a multiple purchase. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Tamaya Reserve Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah 2005
Limari Valley $12.95 (062497)
This punches well above its meagre price. Aromas of black berry, toast, herbs and spice-infused black currant provide the entry for the rich and concentrated flavours—kirsch liqueur, cassis and aromatic bitters. It’s medium to full bodied, nicely textured with a perceptible, but supple, tannin structure. Get in line with other red-wine-loving winecurrent subscribers (including me) to pick up a few of these—the price-quality balance is tipped well in your favour. (VH)

Australia: Red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Barossa Valley Estate ‘Ebenezer’ Shiraz 2003
Barossa Valley, South Australia $39.95 (971705)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) From premium fruit (low yields, old vines, tiny berries), just shy of making the final cut for the fabulous E & E Black Pepper Shiraz, this is less than half the price per bottle. Pepper and spiced black plum on the nose, this blossoms in the glass, showcasing oodles of rich dark bramble berry and cassis flavours, ripe and perceptible tannin, incredible balance, full-bodied texture and a soft finish. This is gutsy without being jammy. Drink now, with a 3 hour decant, but better 2009 to 2014. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Grant Burge ‘150th Anniversary Release’ Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2003
Barossa, South Australia $30.95 (067900)
A wine of depth and complexity, the lifted aromas that blast off the glass include ripe mulberry, exotic spice, black cherry and a touch of earthiness. The hedonistic and concentrated flavours—cassis, black plum and dark chocolate—are evident throughout the luxurious and lingering finish. It’s full bodied, richly textured and deftly balanced. Drink now to 2012. This provides great value and an opportunity to taste a wine from a living Barossa icon. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Penfolds Bin 28 ‘Kalimna’ Shiraz 2004
South Australia $34.95 (422782)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This is a full-bodied, mouth-filling, fruit-forward number with loads of complexity in the layered fruit aromas and flavours. Look for black fruit and berries with spice, pepper and herbal notes, along with a hint of chocolate and vanilla. The finish is long, with the herbs and spice playing a prominent role. The tannins are ripe and gripping, and manageable now, but you can safely hold this another five or six years. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Penfolds 'Thomas Hyland' Shiraz 2004
South Australia $20.95 (611210)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) A ‘Vintages Essentials’, this is always available in selected stores. Penfolds' chief winemaker, Peter Gago, has his stamp of excellence all over this. It is elegant, refined and balanced to perfection. Everything is aligned to produce an aromatic—rose petals and cassis, gorgeously flavoured—black currant, sweet black plum and hints of toast, thing of beauty. A hint of oak, moderate alcohol (13.5%), firm texture and a lengthy finish all coalesce to provide a sense of place and varietal typicity. (VH)

South Africa: Red

**** drink or cellar
Guardian Peak SMG Syrah/Mourvèdre/Grenache 2005
WO Western Cape $22.95 (083972)
This is a lovely wine with many endearing features; it’s richly flavoured, nicely textured, well balanced and offers value for the money. The Syrah and Mourvèdre were aged separately in 100% new French and American oak for eighteen months while the Grenache was left unoaked. Look for aromas of cinnamon and mocha while the succulent warm (14.5% alcohol) flavours include ripe and juicy dark berry fruit, chocolate, tar and espresso roast. The dry finish lingers and is beautifully balanced. Drink now to 2014 with a curried lamb dish like bobotie. (VH)

France: White

***1/2 drink or cellar
Lorentz Gewürztraminer ‘Altenberg de Bergheim’ 2002
AOC Alsace Grand Cru, Vieilles Vignes $32.95 (021311)
Rosewater, exotic spice and honey aromas form the enticing nose while the flavours are an involved mix of honeyed pear and apple. It’s medium in texture, weight and length of finish. Lovely served as an aperitif, it also pairs well with lighter seafood canapés that have a hint of spice. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Willm Riesling Réserve
AOC Alsace $16.95 (011452)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Mineral and slate aromas segue to this classy Alsatian. You'll experience bracing acidity, in the form of zesty and refreshing citrus flavours that are infused with spice and hints of white peach and apple. Supple velvet-like texture adds to the experience while the finish is lengthy and cleansing—everything a fine dry Riesling should be. This Vintages Essentials product (stocked continuously) is perfectly matched with German sausage and sauerkraut. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
William Fèvre Chablis ‘Premier Cru Montmains’ 2006
AOC Burgundy $34.95 (977587)
Citrus and mineral notes on the nose, this is a nicely textured and zesty offering. There are oodles of lemon-lime and white grapefruit aromas and flavours that are nicely integrated with ripe white peach and green apple. Medium bodied and delivering a moderately lengthy finish, this will pair well with freshly shucked oysters on the half shell under a generous squeeze of lemon. (VH)

**** drink now
Domaine des Dorices Muscadet Sèvre et Maine ‘Cuvée Hermine d’Or’ 2006
AOC Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, Vieilles Vignes, Sur Lie $14.95 (692707)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) The price-quality balance is tipped heavily in your favour. The grape is Melon de Bourgogne, not 'Muscadet', which is a style of wine. This opens with expressive aromas of baking bread and mineral notes then washes the palate with a gusher of tantalizing flavours including white grapefruit, lemon zest and juicy white peach. It's medium bodied, well textured and delivers a dry crisp and lip-smacking finish. Pair with seafood, mussels, oysters or prawns. (VH)

France: Red

Rhône Valley

***** drink or cellar
Alain Jaume et Fils ‘Clos de Sixte’ 2005
AOC Lirac $26.95 (076349)
Lirac is a nearby neighbour of Châteauneuf-du-Pape capable of producing wines of similar quality at half the price; this is one. A red blend—50% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre—the aromas are consistent with many in the area, garrigue, dark berry fruit, toasty notes and spice box. It’s medium to full bodied, fully textured and deftly balanced. There’s a gusher of persistent flavours—cassis, black briary fruit and dark chocolate. The finish lingers, layering on flavours of black cherry and black licorice. Make a multiple purchase and drink now to 2015. Highly recommended. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Cuvée Exceptionnelle’ 2006
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $54.95 (957274)
Herbs, ripe dark berry fruit, tar and gamey aromas open this gorgeously balanced and creamy-textured red. This is a focused and concentrated effort with excellent structure and rich ripe flavours—kirsch liqueur, briary berry and notes of tar. The oak has been seamlessly integrated, the tannin is ripe and supple, while the finish is lingering and luxurious. All this portends long life; drink now to 2020. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine Lucien Barrot et Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2005
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $41.95 (076364)
Mixed herbs Provençal, coffee and hints of tar on the nose, this fully textured red blend slides along the palate with effortless ease; there are ripe juicy flavours of mulberry, black currant, cassis, and notes of dried berry fruit. Medium bodied and sporting a supple tannin structure plus a lingering fruity finish, this pours beautifully alongside gigot of lamb. Drink now to 2016. (VH)

Southwest

****1/2 cellar
Château Aydie Madiran 2005
AOC Madiran $30.95 (719765)
This is a gorgeous wine with an attractive price tag. Look for aromas of toasty oak, herbs and spices and an array of mixed berry fruit. The tannin provides firm structure while the expressive flavours—black currant, Bing cherry and black plum—glide along on a satin smooth texture. It’s medium bodied while the lengthy finish adds dark chocolate and espresso roast flavours. Drink 2010 to 2015 with osso bucco or lamb daube. (VH)

France: Rosé

**** drink now
Domaine Lafond Roc-Épine Tavel Rosé 2007
AOC Tavel $19.95 (950709)
Lots of verve and raciness in this lip-smacking, very good-value Rosé. It opens with a lifted nose of strawberry, raspberry and hints of minerality. The flavours are all about zesty, crisp and clean flavours with cranberry and pomegranate predominant, and they’re nicely melded with piquant spice and ripe strawberry on the deftly balanced finish. It’s medium in weight and texture, making it a candidate for pairing with grilled salmon under a dribble of lemon butter. (VH)

Germany: White

****1/2 drink or cellar
Studert-Prüm Riesling ‘Spätlese’ 2006
QmP Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $25.95 (912659)
The ’05 vintage in Mosel was the best in recent memory and the ‘06 is just a tick off that. This is a great Spätlese a.k.a. ‘late harvest’, with a generous ageing potential—drink now, or wait to 2014 - 2020 to experience the much-sought-after honeyed, oily and petrol characteristics. This delivers a luscious sweet mouthful of lemon-lime, mineral and spiced white peach flavours that roll endlessly through the lengthy honeyed finish. Medium bodied and creamy in texture, this delivers very good value; it’s worthy of a multiple purchase. (VH)

Italy: White

****1/2 drink or cellar
Attems Cicinis 2006
DOC Collio $29.95 (075432)
This is an atypical blockbuster white that would hardly be nailed as Italian, never mind Friuli, in a blind tasting. It’s from 40-year-old vines, a tiny plot (5 Ha) owned by Frescobaldi, barrel fermented and barrel aged (only 2 months). The aromas and flavours are all about floral notes, spiced apple compote, and lemon meringue pie. It’s full bodied, medium textured and delivers a well-balanced lengthy finish. Gorgeous on its own, you can also pair with roast pork tenderloin stuffed with dried apple and nectarine, or Thanksgiving turkey with all the fixings. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Zenato Pinot Grigio 2007
IGT delle Venezie $16.95 (037648)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent.com) Citrus and floral on the nose, expect a supremely crisp, refreshing and racy white wine that also offers some very ripe fruit flavours. You'll find sweet ripe fruit—peach, nectarine and guava—along with a zingy splash of lemon-lime tang. Light to medium bodied and well balanced; this pairs beautifully with steamed mussels or clams. (VH)

Italy: Red

**** drink or cellar
Banfi Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
DOCG Chianti Classico $33.95 (998328)
Earthy, gamey and very expressive dark chocolate aromas present on the nose. The zesty and heady fruit flavours of sour cherry, strawberry and cranberry are nicely infused with hints of spice and herbs. It’s medium in texture and weight while the lingering finish is still showing grippy tannin along with flavours redolent of black cherries dipped in dark chocolate. Aerate / decant two hours before serving or cellar 2010 - 2015. (VH)

**** drink now
Contessa Di Radda Chianti Classico 2004
DOCG Chianti Classico $20.95 (082313)
The lifted nose of cassis, dark berry and leather introduce a very well-balanced red with loads of zesty flavours and a lingering and expressive finish. There’s considerable tang from pie cherry, cranberry, and pomegranate flavours. They’re delivered within a medium weight and nicely textured frame and they carry on through the lengthy finish; that finish layers on black cherry flavours. This is an excellent-value wine to be consumed now to 2012. (VH)

***1/2 cellar
Guado Al Tasso ‘Il Bruciato’ 2006
DOC Bolgheri $29.95 (674135)
A grainy and powerful wine, this opens with mixed berry fruit, coffee and aromatic bitters aromas. There are scads of dark berry flavours—black currant, blueberry and Bing cherry—that are still in the grip of a firm tannin structure. Medium bodied and nicely textured; aerate / decant this three hours before serving or consume 2010 to 2015 alongside steak tartare, or beef carpaccio with arugula and Parmigiano Reggiano. (VH)

**** cellar
La Braccesca Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano 2004
DOCG Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano $27.95 (566216)
Although it’s from a cool-ish and wet vintage, this still shows well. It’s primarily Sangiovese (70% +) and oak-aged a minimum of 12 months. Toasty notes, black currant plus mixed herbs and spice aromas show up on the quiet nose. It opens up considerably on the palate with nervy and layered flavours of sour cherry, blueberry and ripe red currant. The tannin is quite firm—providing optimum drinking 2010 to 2018—while the texture and weight are both medium. It finishes nicely with black currant and espresso roast flavours. (VH)

Spain: Red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Arrocal Selección 2004
DO Ribera del Duero $32.95 (079764)
A lifted nose of cherry, smoked bacon and earthy nuances segue powerful and expressive flavours of dark berry fruit and kirsch liqueur. It’s medium to full-bodied and nicely textured with a slightly grainy and grippy finish. This is drinking well now, after a two-hour decant, and will cellar gracefully until 2016. Pour alongside T-bone steak grilled rare to medium rare. (VH)

**** drink now
Bodegas Castaño Hécula 2005
DO Yecla $13.95 (718999)
A perennial winecurrent favourite, this Mourvèdre doesn’t disappoint; it provides impressive drinking at an attractive price. Smoky, earthy and gamey on the nose, the flavours attack with a gusher of cassis and juicy black raspberry flavours that are carried along on a creamy texture that’s followed by perceptible tannin on the expressive and fruity finish. All in all, a bit chunky now, but will smooth out with another year in the cellar or a two-hour aeration / decant before serving. A handful will make their way to my cellar for drinking now to 2011, you might want to do the same. (VH)

**** drink now
Raimat Viña 43 Tempranillo 2004
DO Costers del Segre $16.95 (743039)
There’s lots going on here with expressive aromas of toasty oak—ten months in American, a further six in French—dried berry fruit and spice. Lovely, sweet and juicy, fully textured fruit flavours wash over the palate with ripe black cherry, mulberry and black currant front and centre. It finishes well balanced with a high note of piquant red berry fruit. Another wine deserving serious consideration of a multiple buy. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Ònix Fusió 2006
DOCa Priorato $27.95 (074872)
This is a gargantuan fruit bomb with gushers of sweet and warm (14.5% alcohol) fruity flavours—cherry, peppery black plum and fig amongst them. It’s medium to full bodied, nicely textured and sports a fruit-forward finish. This is one of those crowd-pleasers that drinks well on its own, but with enough versatility to pair well with most red meats you grill at your home. (VH)

New in Vintages

Ontario

****1/2 drink now
Cave Spring Cellars 'Estate' Riesling 2007
VQA Beamsville Bench $18.00 (286377)
The '07 vintage has produced exciting wines and here's one of them. It has it all, aromas of mineral, citrus and spice that introduce a full-bodied and fully textured glorious burst of flavours—Granny Smith apple and oodles of citrussy zest and raciness. It's dry, impeccably balanced and lip-smacking good. This is a Vintages Essentials product, always available in selected LCBO stores. (VH)

France

**** drink now
Presqu'ile de Saint-Tropez 'Carte Noire' Rosé 2007
AOC Côtes de Provence $14.85 (319384)
A Vintages Essentials product; it’s always available in selected LCBO stores. The pink-coral colour is a dazzling treat for the eye. The subtle aromas are primarily floral, spice and minerality. This hits its stride on the palate with a delicate, but steady, stream of piquant spice accompanied by citrus tang and spicy lemon zest. Medium in texture, weight and length of finish, it’s a well-balanced Rosé with good versatility at the table—on its own as an aperitif, or matched with light canapés, especially white meat, or seafood. (VH)

New in the LCBO

Argentina

**** drink now
Marcus James Malbec 2007
Mendoza $9.25 (518431)
Deep, dark and purple-hued in the glass, the aromas are heady spice box with perfumed red berry and earthy notes. It’s gutsy on the palate with a consistent rush of black cherry and cassis flavours captured within a well structured frame of grainy, but acceptable tannin and wonderful moderating acidity. The finish is warm and nicely balanced. How do they manage delivering so much wine for so little price? It earned its final half star on its terrific value. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Marcus James Merlot 2007
Mendoza $9.30 (336008)
There are mixed spice, black plum and tarry aromas that segue smooth and plush flavours of black currant and ripe juicy black cherry. It’s medium in weight and texture with pleasing fruit flavours that carry through the balanced finish. It’s a lovely quaffing wine with the oomph and stuffing to pair with burgers, pizza, gourmet sausages and the like. Bistro-styled and uncomplicated, it warrants a buy given the attractive price-quality ratio. (VH)

Ontario

**** drink now
Pillitteri Estates Winery 'Fusion' Gewürztraminer Riesling 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $12.95 (349126)
Aromas of lychee fruit, ginger-infused citrus and mixed spices roll off the highly perfumed nose of this easy-to-drink quaffer. You'll experience an amazing rush of ripe sweet tropical fruit flavours—pineapple and guava—melding with bracing citrus acidity and spice. An excellent wine to be served as an aperitif with spicy canapes, it also has the oomph to pair perfectly with dishes like Pad Thai and Birhyani chicken. You should find this in your local LCBO retail store, if not, ask them to stock it, it's a popular item. (VH)

New in Ontario Wineries


Winecurrent visited a large number of premium Niagara wineries, tasting though barrel samples, '07 whites and '06 reds in the bottle. Be on the cutting edge with winery profiles and timely reviews in this first installment. Read more...

**** drink now
Cave Spring Cellars 'Estate' Chardonnay Musqué 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.05 (246579)
This opens with a burst of perfumed aromatics with musk, exotic mixed spiced box and hints of orange up front. This is medium weight and fully textured, almost creamy, with robust flavours of yellow peach, ginger and zesty citrus. There's a gentle wisp of sweetness from the ripe fruit that's balanced perfectly with the moderating citrus acidity. The finish is clean and refreshing portending a lovely food pairing with spicy Asian cuisine. Purchase via Winery to Home. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Cave Spring Cellars 'Dolomite' Riesling 2007
VQA Niagara Escarpment $16.05
This is sourced from various prime sites within the appellation that provide the desired lime-rich soil structure. There are key lime and steely minerality aromas galore off the nose providing segue to racy and heady flavours of white grapefruit and lemon zest that are deftly married to a gentle touch of moderating sweetness. This is, surprisingly, given its zesty nature, very fleshy on the palate. The mouth-watering and lingering finish suggests a pairing with Alsatian onion tart. Purchase via Winery to Home. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Marynissen Estate Winery Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $
This was barrel fermented and aged 7 months in American oak. It opens with glorious aromas of pit fruit, citrus, and dessicated coconut. This age-worthy and mouth-watering Chard delivers a fully textured mouthful of ripe citrus, piquant spice and Granny Smith apple flavours. It finishes dry and crisp, but not before layering on succulent yellow peach and pear flavours. Pair this with pan-seared scallops over a bed of arugula under a drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon. Order for daily home or office delivery directly from the winery: 1-905-468-7270 or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

**** drink now
Marynissen Estate Winery Gewürztraminer 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $
Hand-picked estate-grown fruit was used to produce this aromatic and deftly balanced white. Lifted rosewater and exotic spice aromas abound while the expressive flavours include warm and ginger-infused yellow plum and orange peel citrus. It’s medium in texture and weight and sports a nicely balanced lingering finish. Perfect as an aperitif or welcoming wine, spicy butter chicken also pairs perfectly. Order for daily home or office delivery directly from the winery: 1-905-468-7270 or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Marynissen Estate Winery Riesling 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $
This ‘off-dry’ gem delivers near-perfect balance between succulent fruit flavours—a hallmark of this vintage—and wonderful crisp cleansing acidity. Racy and zesty aromas of mineral and citrus segue a cornucopia of flavours including tropical fruit—pineapple and melon—along with white grapefruit, ripe yellow peach and green apple. The sweet and tang finish delivers that wonderful yin and yang experience that pairs so well to tandoori or Szechuan chicken. Only 250 cases made. Order for daily home or office delivery directly from the winery: 1-905-468-7270 or email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Pillitteri Estates Winery Pinot Grigio 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $15.00
Floral, mineral and spice on the nose, this delivers a medium weight fleshy textured mouthful of lip-smacking wine. You'll revel in the expressive flavours—lemon-lime, spicy white grapefruit and minerality­—as they wash over the palate in successive waves. The finish is dry clean and mouth-watering. Pair this alongside chicken or seafood appetizers or seafood mains—mussels, scallops or prawns. Purchase via  Pillitteri Estates Winery. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Pillitteri Estates Winery 'Ice Wine' Vidal 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $40.00 375 mL
Wine maker, Marc Bradshaw, uses specialized yeast clones to flesh out every gram of texture and flavour and the result is spectacular. The lifted nose bursts forth with aromas of peel marmalade, caramel and candied fruit. The flavours include a delightful mélange of sweet ripe and juicy tree fruit—pear, lemon and mango—underpinned by laser-like acidity that keeps it from becoming cloying. It's fully textured and sports a lengthy and, suprisingly, very well-balanced finish. Sip on its own as dessert or pair with crème caramel, blue cheese or for a hedonistic experience, pan-seared foie gras. Purchase via Pillitteri Estates Winery. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Southbrook Vineyards 'Triomphe' Chardonnay 2006
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $21.95
Toast, oak and vanilla aromas roll off the glass of this highly expressive generously textured Chardonnay. It was barrel fermented and aged in French oak before being bottled under Stelvin closure a.k.a. screwcap. Look for flavours of green apple and yellow peach with nuances of what will develop over the next few years—honeyed pear and caramel apple flavours. Beautifully structured, it delivers a lingering and impeccably balanced finish.This would be a lovely accompaniment with Thanksgiving turkey, sage dressing and roasted root veggies. Order in mixed case lots for daily home or office delivery directly from Southbrook Vineyards or 1.888.581.1581.
(VH)

****1/2 drink now
Southbrook Vineyards 'Triomphe' Sauvignon Blanc 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95
Vinified from two separate lots in cooler parts of the region, this reflects the warm vintage through highly aromatic fruit flavours, and the judicious selection and handling of fruit as it delivers pristine acidity and deft balance. Grassy, herbaceous and mineral aromas segue a rich and heady gusher of green apple, white grapefruit and spice-infused ripe lemon flavours It's medium in weight and texture delivering a crisp and refreshing lengthy finish. Pair with lime-marinated prawns grilled on your BBQ then drizzled with butter. Order in mixed case lots for daily home or office delivery directly from Southbrook Vineyards or 1.888.581.1581. (VH)

**** drink now
Southbrook Vineyards 'Triomphe' Syrah 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95
There's a touch of Cabernet Franc (7%) in this nicely structured red. The alluring nose delivers aromas of dried berry fruit, black pepper and mulberry. On the palate there's a mélange of flavours including blueberry, tangy red cherry and red currant. This is medium in weight, texture and finish; everything's in synch. A challenging varietal in Niagara, made even more challenging in this mediocre vintage, produced this very fine wine—hats off to Southbrook. Pair this with herb-rubbed and grilled rack of lamb. Order in mixed case lots for daily home or office delivery directly from Southbrook Vineyards or 1.888.581.1581. (VH)

Cheers!

Vic

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar