winecurrent.com
July 19th, 2008 Vintages Release

Winecurrent.com delivers a comprehensive and complete review of the Vintages Release wines tasted. No short cuts, no skimping, just honest and complete reviews of the wines that were made available for tasting at the LCBO, earning 3 stars and above, to help you make your selections.

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature on Summer Wines. The familiar country/region format follows in the 'Main Release' and has wines reviewed in the order they appear in the Vintages Release brochure.

Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

  • You'll find a number of bargain reds in the Chile section of the Main Release. Along with Argentina and the south of France, it's a go-to place for value wines.
  • The vintages of your favourite, or soon-to-be-favourite, wines change each year. Check out the bargains in the 'New in the LCBO' section following the Main Release.
  • Finally, the Consignment Wine section features a number of wines from the iconic and quirky Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyards. You may be surprised at what he's done.


An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

White Hot Summer Wines Feature


****1/2 drink now
Artesa Chardonnay 2006
Carneros, California $21.95 (657585)
Toasty oak and nuances of pineapple aromas float off this medium-bodied fully textured gem. There's a mélange of expressive flavours with ripe sweet pear, green apple and lip-smacking crisp citrus flavours on the palate. The finish is lengthy, and well balanced with ripe fruit and zesty citrus. This is perfectly paired with pan-seared white fish. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Novas 'Winemaker's Selection' Chardonnay/Marsanne/Viognier 2006
Casablanca Valley, Chile $18.95 (063909)
Gorgeous and expressive aromas of apple compote and nutty oak billow from this well-balanced blend. The sweet ripe tree fruit flavours attack in wave after delicious wave; look for peach, apple and yellow plum, with spice in the background. The 14.5% alcohol is imperceptible while the crisp and refreshing finish lingers. Pair with lobster dipped in clarified butter. (VH))

***1/2 drink or cellar
Bischöfliche Riesling Kabinett 2005
QmP, Avelsbacher, Altenberg, Germany $20.95 (071134)
This opens with nectarine and clove-infused pear aromas. There's excellent texture while the flavours—sweet ripe yellow peach, ripe honeyed pear and moderating citrus—glide along through the sweet and sour lengthy finish. It offers sweet fruit that's nicely balanced with moderating acidity and that means it's the perfect candidate for spicy Asian. Try this paired with tandoori chicken or spicy beef in lettuce wraps. (VH)

**** drink now
Henry of Pelham Pinot Blanc 2007
VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario $14.95 (618827)
Sweet peach and herbaceous aromas lead the way in this crisp and refreshing summer sipper. There's more peach on the palate along with zesty citrus flavours. It's medium bodied, medium in texture and adds some complexity on the finish with the addition of tree fruit flavours. Lovely when quaffed on its own, pair it with light appetizers - seafood or white meat. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Omaka Springs Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $17.95 (063354)
Audacious and herbaceous aromas of pungent nettles and grassy notes open this gorgeously textured SB. Once on the palate, the full bore flavours swing into high gear with a rush of tropical fruit—pineapple, honeydew melon and guava—that coalesce on the lengthy finish with wonderful lemon-lime zest. It's clean and refreshing and looking for its perfect mate—lemon sole. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Leaping Lizard Chardonnay 2006
Napa Valley, California $17.95 (067447)
Spice, herbs and cedar-like aromas form segue to this medium-bodied well textured round n' ready white. Delectable fruit flavours of citrus and spice-infused pineapple wash over the palate and crisp clean finish. There's deft balance, good structure and great value. Pair this with chicken or veal in a light cream sauce, say veal scaloppini. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Irony Chardonnay 2005
Napa Valley, California $19.95 (27409)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Cloves, exotic spice and leesy notes waft off the glass of this phenomenally expressive Chard. Fully textured and medium to full bodied, you should expect a creamy-smooth mouthful of peach, nectarine, white grapefruit and spices, predominantly nutmeg and clove. Complex and elegant, the expansive fruit-driven finish lingers. Pair with steamed lobster, pan-seared trout or all manner of veal and poultry. (VH)

*** drink or cellar
Sandihurst Riesling 2006
Canterbury, South Island, New Zealand $19.95 (063958)
Sharp, herbaceous and mineral on the nose, there's great citrus tang along with flavours of pear and crispy green apple on the palate. It's light to medium bodied and lightly textured while the finish is quite lengthy. Built for summer sipping it's also the perfect foil to pan-seared tuna under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Laroche Chablis 2006
AOC Burgundy, France $22.95 (017657)
Textbook Chablis with its minerally nose and austere profile, this offers good value from an outstanding vintage. Along with the mineral aromas there's also green apple. On the palate you'll find crisp and zesty lemon and Granny Smith apple plus a hint of pit fruit—peach and nectarine. The finish is racy and clean. Freshly shucked Malpec oysters are the classic match, and why not? (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Pikes 'Traditionale' Riesling 2006
Clare Valley, South Australia $17.95 (066894)
Pike is for fish, and for family. Andrew and Neil Pike own and manage this cool climate Clare Valley winery, producing world-class wine like this. There's a perfumed intense nose of mineral, floral and slight hints of petrol that open up to outstanding crisp and clean flavours with green apple and white peach to the fore. Classic Clare, this is not be missed. Drinking beautifully now, it will continue to develop another seven or eight years. Pair with smoked salmon or pasta salad under crumbled goat cheese. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
André Blanck et ses Fils 'Schlossberg' Riesling 2006
AOC Alsace Grand Cru, France $21.95 (744995)
This Grand Cru single vineyard Riesling offers mineral notes and sweet ripe pit fruit on the nose and palate. There's an abundance of rich flavours; sweet yellow peach, ripe pear and crisp green apple among them. This is well balanced, medium bodied and nicely textured. It finishes steely dry and crisp, making it the ideal candidate for pairing with grilled fresh water fish. (VH)

***** drink now
Sandalford Chardonnay 2005
Margaret River, Western Australia $28.95 (075978)
A prime vineyard site within this world-class region coalesce in this meticulously crafted wine. Toasty oak and tropical fruit aromas billow off this full-bodied and full-textured gem. There's perfect balance and wonderfully complementary flavours of pineapple, sweet pit fruit and crisp zesty mouth-watering citrus. The lingering finish is nutty and fruit-forward. Pair this with roasted or clay-baked chicken. (VH)

**** drink now
Burgáns Albariño 2007
DO Rias Baixas, Spain $18.95 (945063)
Mineral and herbaceous on the nose, this is pristine clean and refreshing. There are abundant delicious flavours including apple, spice, pear and racy mouth-watering citrus. It's medium bodied with good texture and a refreshing finish. It's meant to be paired with seafood, try butterflied giant prawns marinated in lime juice and grilled on the BBQ. (VH)

**** drink now
Mount Riley 'Savée' Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Marlborough South Island, New Zealand $25.95 (032326)
And now for something completely different? a sparkling SB. It delivers what you'd expect from Marlborough, grassy herbaceous aromas and a zippy zesty mouthful of white grapefruit, gooseberry and passion fruit flavours. The bubbles add a delightful dimension of tingle and refreshment. Lovely sipped on its own when outside on a hot summer day, it also pairs well with a thin crust gourmet pizza of goat cheese and pesto. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Taylor Fladgate Fine White Port
Portugal $15.95 (069856)
That's correct, 'white' Port. It's somewhat sweet, but that's okay because you add ice, and mix it with a splash of tonic and a sprig of fresh mint or citrus slice to make a refreshing aperitif. It has hints of apple and fig flavours with a focused spine of citrus acidity that keeps it crisp and refreshing. It's high octane, moderation is required. (VH)

The Main Release

Sparkling Wine


**** drink now
Château des Charmes 'Méthode Traditionnelle' Brut
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $22.95 (207944)
Lovely almond and freshly baked brioche aromas open this seriously-good sparkling wine. Fine and consistent bubbles (a mark of elegance) help to deliver a delicious mouthful of refreshing flavours that include honeyed pear, and ripe grapefruit. It's medium bodied, well structured and has a supple texture. Deftly balanced, the finish lingers with expressive fruit and moderating acidity. Serve as an aperitif or with lightly herbed chicken or veal dishes. (VH)

Canada: White


**** drink or cellar
Flat Rock Cellars Riesling 2007
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (043281)
Off dry and on target, this delivers a fully textured sweet and tang experience allowing it to pair perfectly with spicy Asian cuisine. Sweet, ripe and rich pit fruit flavours—peach, pear and apricot—are juxtaposed beautifully with racy citrus acidity. The finish is lengthy, the wine delicious. Spicy spring rolls followed by Pad Thai works swell. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Tawse 'Sketches of Niagara' Chardonnay 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.20 (089037)
Well paced and well priced; this medium-bodied white punches well above average for the vintage. Toasty oak and spicy on the nose, the flavours are robust without being too aggressive. There's peach and nectarine along with some nutty nuances. It's very well balanced with moderating zest, fully textured and the finish lingers. Crown roast of pork pairs well. (VH)

U.S.A.: Red


**** drink now
Cellar No. 8 Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
California $17.95 (068486)
Full flavoured and deftly balanced, this delivers an expressive nose of spice, blueberry and sweet mixed berry fruit aromas. Rich and layered flavours abound with cassis, black briary berry and spice to the fore. It's well balanced, has perceptible ripe tannin and sports a lengthy finish that layers on some tar and coffee notes. Good to drink now with all manner of grilled red meats. (VH)

**** drink now
Frias Family Vineyard Syrah 2005
Napa Valley $43.95 (067298)
Pricey, but still good value, it opens with mixed spice box and dark berry aromas then gets into high gear on the palate with a gusher of layered and fully textured fruit flavours—black plum, dark juicy black raspberry and cherry. The finish adds hints of black pepper and earthy tones. It's well balanced and ready to drink. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
La Crema Pinot Noir 2006
Russian River Valley, California $32.95 (906404)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent - at $44.95) Enjoy an explosion of sweet berry fruit on the palate and a generous squirt of tang on the lengthy finish of this medium-bodied red from a producer who never seems to slip up. Ripe and sweet strawberry, black berry and cherry flavours roll over the mid palate. The lengthy and well-balanced finish delivers more of the same along with ripe tannin, and moderating acidity keeping it dry and refreshing. Delicious. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Raymond Reserve Merlot 2005
Napa Valley $23.95 (038059)
Aromas of chocolate and oak open this up while the sweet mellow flavours are in the dark berry zone—blackberry, black currant and black raspberry. Medium bodied and nicely textured, the finish is fruity and attractive with fine-grained tannin that adds structure and ageability to 2014. Pair with roast leg of lamb. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Rodney Strong 'Knotty Vines' Zinfandel 2005
Sonoma County $24.95 (363358)
This has it all—a gusher of fruit, moderating tang, the ability to age, and all at a great price. There are aromas of spice box and a rush of sweet berry fruit with hints of black pepper. The flavours consist of jammy black briary fruit that are deftly balanced by zesty tang and a supple tannin structure. Simply delicious; pick up a few. (VH)

Argentina: Red


***1/2 drink now
Chakana Malbec 2007
Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza $13.95 (003509)
This is a pleasant bistro-styled wine that's light to medium bodied and ready now for easy drinking. Berry fruit and nutty oak aromas drift off the glass while the flavours are red cherry and black currant nicely supported by moderating tang. This is well suited to pair with red meat, grilled and served on the deck. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Trumpeter Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Mendoza $13.95 (723288)
Smooth and mellow on the palate, this also shows some complexity. There are aromas of spice and black plum that complement the flavours of spice, black Damson plum and cherry. This is medium bodied and very well balanced. Good moderating zest and tang on the finish. This pairs well with pasta in a tomato-based sauce - try spaghetti Bolognaise. (VH)

Chile: Red


**** drink now
Aresti 'Winemakers' Assamblage' 2004
Chile $14.95 (064113
There's a cornucopia of aromas that rise from this medium-bodied blend with black ripe berry fruit, black pepper and cherry to the fore. The firm and focused flavours produce a straightforward and well-balanced wave of sweet black raspberry and cassis flavours that are held from jammy through a moderating stream of zest and tang. It finishes lengthy and delicious. This is well made, well paced and well priced. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Viña Cono Sur 'Visión' 'Los Lingues Block' Syrah 2006
Colchagua Valley $15.95 (024661)
The expressive nose billows with rich, ripe and juicy dark berry flavours—raspberry, currant, cherry—then goes into overdrive on the palate with a lovely wave of boysenberry, kirsch liqueur and mocha flavours. It's medium bodied, fully textured and sports a deftly balanced and lingering finish. Hard to imagine that at this price it's also classy and flirts with elegance, but it does. Don't be shy, make a multiple purchase. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Viña Echeverria Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Molina, Curico Valley $13.95 (059378)
Rich, layered and complex, expect aromas of tobacco, earthiness and ripe berry fruit. The flavours are redolent of good Bordeaux, with cassis, espresso roast and hints of sweet ripe Bing cherry flavours as well as nicely integrated oak. This is delivered with an abundance of texture, on a medium-bodied frame and sporting a delicious tangy lingering finish. Stop reading, pick up a few. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Viña Montgras Reserva Carmenère 2006
Colchagua Valley $12.95 (960542)
The price-quality ratio is swung wildly in your favour earning its final half star because of it. Aromatic and full flavoured, there are black cherry and exotic spice box aromas that segue complex and exuberant flavours of mulberry, mocha, spiced black plum and rich black briary berry. It's creamy smooth and medium to full bodied with a balanced and lengthy finish. Pick up a case for drinking over the next 12 months with grilled red meat and hearty meat dishes. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Viña Morandé Reserva Carmenère 2005
Maipo Valley $13.95 (059436)
With herbaceous and spice notes on the nose, it sets up a tangy, zesty, almost tart, delivery of red currant and cranberry flavours. Medium bodied and medium in texture, it finishes clean and refreshing. Even allowing for bottle variance, it tasted nothing like the Decanter tasting notes in the Vintages Release catalogue. It would make a good partner with pizza or spaghetti Bolognaise. (VH)

Australia: White


****1/2 drink or cellar
Balnaves 'Hand Picked' Chardonnay 2005
Coonawarra, South Australia $36.95 (070458)
Layers of flavours and a lingering finish make this worthy of consideration. Heady aromas of toasty oak and vanilla open this medium-bodied nicely textured gem. Waves of flavours roll over the palate with spice, green apple and ripe white grapefruit to the fore. The finish adds nuances of tropical fruit, mainly pineapple, finishing with a lip-smacking squirt of lemony tang. Pricey, but worth it, pair with roast chicken or steamed lobster. (VH)

Australia: Red


**** drink now
d'Arenberg 'The Stump Jump' Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2006
McLaren Vale, South Australia $13.95 (606236)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) This is not a complicated decision; it's a fourteen dollar wine drinking like you paid twenty. You'll find aromas and flavours in the dark berry, licorice and dark chocolate zones that are ably supported by ripe tannins and a bright cherry finish. Splendid drinking on its own, it'll pair well to the grilled red meats you enjoy at your house. Another one to pick up by the cartful; it's drinking well now and will continue to do so into 2010. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Grant Burge 'Barossa Vines' Shiraz 2005
Barossa, South Australia $17.95 (738567)
Straightforward and drinking well now, this is a cut above most at this price point. Medium to full bodied and nicely textured, the aromas are quite expressive with mocha, tobacco and rich dark berry fruit. This theme repeats in the flavour profile with dark chocolate and boysenberry, cassis and black raspberry—thankfully, no tobacco—along with hints of tar and spice. Ripe tannin adds structure and there's good tang for balance. Pair this with grilled lamb tenderloins. (VH)

New Zealand: Red


**** drink or cellar
Oyster Bay Pinot Noir 2006
Marlborough, South Island $25.95 (590414)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) You're probably more familiar with this label via their Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc as both are Vintages Essentials. However, this gorgeously-textured Pinot rates highly on its own. Aromas of toast and black plum are evident while the flavour profile is a lovely mélange of fruit—currant, cranberry and spicy black plum—along with a ladle of tanginess for interest and balance. The medium finish layers on some tangy black cherry flavours as well, leaving it dry and clean. (VH)

France: White


***1/2 drink now
Guigal Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2006
AOC Côtes du Rhône $17.95 (290296)
From one of the most respected Rhone Valley producers, this offers floral and mineral aromas on the nose with an interesting juxtaposition of a creamy, almost waxy, texture and a focused citrus tang on the palate. This is medium bodied with the finishing flavours all about crisp and zesty citrus tang. Pair this with pan-seared scallops under a generous squirt of fresh lemon. (VH)

France: Red


**** drink now
Georges Duboeuf 'Château de Javernand' Chiroubles 2006
AOC Chiroubles $16.95 (074245)
Chiroubles is one of the ten Cru regions in Beaujolais and not to be confused with Beaujolais Nouveau—this has interest and structure. Grapey, floral and spicy on the nose, the lightly scented flavours are strawberry, blueberry and spiced black plum. The finish delivers more of the same, with nuances of lilac, in a seamless transition. Serve slightly chilled—twenty minutes in a refrigerator before serving—with deli meats and assorted appetizers. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Cazes Ego de Cazes 2006
AOC Côtes du Roussillon Village $19.95 (077701)
This bio-dynamic (reaches beyond 'organic') winery follows the practices of the late Dr. Rudolf Steiner, considered the father of this growing movement. This GSM blend—40% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 20% Mourvèdre—offers aromas and flavours of spice and sweet ripe fruit with black raspberry, black currant and mulberry to the fore. It's medium bodied, medium textured with a lengthy well-balanced finish. The price-quality ratio is tipped in your favour. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Pierre Amadieu 'Vacqueyras La Grangelière' 2005
AOC Vacqueyras $22.95 (076398)
Firm and focused, this delivers a delicious rush of red fruit tang with each delicious sip. There are spicy, earthy, and field berry aromas on the nose that segue a heady rush of red currant, strawberry and cranberry flavours. There's ripe perceptible tannin on the palate that provides texture and structure. This finishes with a glorious coating of sweet rich and ripe dark berry fruit flavours. From a southern Rhone wine region that gained its AOC appellation in 1995, this offers good value. (VH)

France: Rosé


****1/2 drink or cellar
Mas des Bressades Cuvée Tradition Rosé 2007
AOC Costières de Nîmes $12.95 (950576)
A perennial favourite with winecurrent, it's worth a multiple purchase for consumption over the next six months while it's still at its best. Strawberry, sweetened rhubarb compote and cranberry aromas and flavours emanate from this wonderfully textured and medium-bodied blend. It finishes racy, dry and clean. Built for sipping, it also pairs well with seafood, especially pan-seared salmon or grilled prawns. (VH)

Italy: Red


***1/2 drink or cellar
Antinori Pèppoli Chianti Classico 2005
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (606541)
Classic, as well as Classico, this Chianti offers a textbook version of well-made wine from this well-respected region. Floral, mineral and dark berry fruit on the nose, the palate is treated to a crisp and zesty onslaught of racy flavours that are in the red currant and cranberry zones. Medium bodied and medium textured, it layers on fresh red cherry flavours and spice on the dry finish. Pair with a spicy tomato-based sauce dish—pasta arrabiata or pasta in a puttenesca sauce would be perfect. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Corte Giara Ripasso Valpolicella 2006
DOC Valpolicella $19.95 (083964)
Ripasso is made by fermenting Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes with the skins and lees that were used to make Amarone. Toasty, earthy and dark berry fruit aromas burst from the glass of this spicy red blend. It's medium bodied, light to medium textured and gushing with heady fruit flavours, black briary berry, racy cranberry, and lip-smacking tang. Pair with spicy Italian food—pizza, lasagna or sausage. (VH)

Spain: Red


**** drink or cellar
Baron de Ley Gran Reserva 1998
DOCa Rioja $32.95 (642496)
This ten year old shows it age with a distinctive orange colouration (a.k.a 'bricky' in wine terms) on the outside rim. Not to worry, there are another six or eight years of good drinking remaining. Spice and leather aromas segue focused flavours of red cherry, blueberry and spiced black Damson plum. It's smoothly textured, integrates the oak and tannin seamlessly, and is medium bodied. The finish adds a dollop of refreshing cranberry tang. Lovely on its own, it pairs well with braised lamb shanks. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Celler de Capçanes 'Mas Donís Barrica' 'Old Vines' 2005
DO Montsant $17.95 (705863)
One of Spain's newer wine regions, Monstant is home to some of its oldest vines. This is 85% Garnacha (from 80+-year-old vines) and 15% Syrah. Earthy, spicy and floral on the nose, this delivers a wonderful mouthful of sweet cherry and cassis flavours that are beautifully balanced with racy acidity. It's medium bodied and nicely structured with seamless oak integration and ripe supple tannin. The finish begins fruity and balanced, ending with a bit of a spicy bite. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Torres Gran Sangre de Toro Reserva 2003
DO Catalunya $15.95 (315648)
This is round n' ready to drink and a certain crowd-pleaser. Loads of tar, spice and black licorice aromas on the nose, the flavours are juicy and rich—cassis and Bing cherry. Everything's in synch and balance with nice texture and medium weight. The finish delivers flavours of spiced black plum with a hint of coffee. A pretty classy effort for this price and one you'd be happy to serve or gift. (VH)

Upstream in Winecurrent

Vintages Release: August 16, 2008


**** drink now
Cono Sur Chardonnay 2007
Colchagua Valley, Chile $12.95 (61911)
Good value, this earned its final half star because of it. Herbal, pineapple and mineral aromas spin off this racy, organically-farmed, unoaked number. Crisp and refreshing, there's an abundance of zesty tang from spice-infused waves of racy and lip-smacking lemon-lime zest along with a hint of melon. The finish lingers and begs for a pairing of prawn and mango kebabs grilled then drizzled with freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)

New in the LCBO

California


***1/2 drink now
Twin Fin Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
California $12.95 (613273)
Pitched at the hip n' happening scene—a red convertible and surfboard prominently displayed on the label—it's right at home on the deck or patio. Dark berry, spice and wisps of minty aromas float of this medium-bodied and lightly textured drink-me-now red. You'll find Montmorency cherry, sweet cassis and more spice on the palate. It finishes fruity and nicely balanced. Serve with meat that sizzled on your BBQ. (VH)

*** drink now
Twin Fin Shiraz 2005
California $12.95 (34132)
Spice and coffee aromas billow from this medium-bodied and medium-textured bistro-styled red. The fruit flavour is in the black briary berry zone with a hint of spice and black plum. There's a distinctive dry finish of dark fruit flavours with a dash of aromatic bitters. Pair with grilled gourmet sausage, pizza or burgers. (VH)

Chile


****drink now
Santa Carolina Carmenère 'Reserva' 2005
Valle del Rapel $12.95 (57133)
Deep purple, almost opaque in the glass, the richly scented aromas reflect warm, ripe dark berry fruit along with spice box and notes of black licorice. Fully textured, the expressive warm flavours (14.5% alcohol) deliver the ripe fruit promised on the nose. Look for rich and raisiny flavours of black currant and, well, dark raisins. It's medium bodied and ready to drink with burgers, pizza and steak. Exceptional value, this earned its final half star from that. (VH)

Italy


***1/2 drink now
Ruffino 'Fonte al Sole' 2006
IGT Toscana $12.85 (18994)
Lovely perfumed aromas of berry fruit, spice and a touch of earthiness. This medium-bodied blend (Sangiovese-predominant with a splash of Cabernet) shows well on the palate with black cherry flavours that are nicely set off with zesty red currant and a hint of spice. It's mellow and ready to drink with imperceptible tannin and not a splinter of oak. It finishes fruity and nicely balanced. Pair with Italian dishes with a tomato-based sauce—lasagna, pasta or pizza. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Santi 'Sortesele' Pinot Grigio
IGT Delle Venezie $ 12.95 (637603)
The gorgeous straw/gold colour will capture your interest. There's an involved and lifted nose of mineral and yellow peach aromas. The flavours consist of ripe citrus and super-ripe apple compote. It offers good texture, medium weight and a zingy citrus zest bite on the finish that lines it up for pairing with seafood dishes like pan-seared white fish under a generous drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)

Portugal


***1/2 drink now
Sogrape 'Gazela' Vinho Verde Non-vintage
DOC Vinho Verde $8.40 (141432)
Named not because of colour, although this has a faint green tinge, but because it's a 'young' wine and meant to be drunk on purchase. Made from an indigenous grape blend—Loureiro, Arinto, Trajadura and Azal—and fashioned for drinking with seafood, pair this with prawns, scallops or tuna ceviché. Floral, mineral and pear aromas on the nose, the flavours are focused on lemon-lime zest and delicious tang. It's balanced, spritzy (resulting in a slight 'prickle' on the tongue), crisp and refreshing, and only 9% alcohol. This is extremely well priced. (VH)

South Africa


**** drink now
Robertson Winery Shiraz 2007
WO Robertson $11.95 (610949)
Robertson is a perennial winecurrent favourite and this Shiraz doesn't disappoint. Lifted alluring aromatics billow from the glass with mixed spice box, black licorice and mixed red and black berry fruit to the fore. There's a solid core of tangy fruit flavours—red cherry, ripe pomegranate and black Damson plum. The finish lingers with hints of kirsch liqueur, yet more spice, and racy mouth-watering zest. It's medium-bodied, nicely textured and very good value. (VH)

Spain


***1/2 drink now
Julian Chivite 'Gran Fuedo' Reserva 2003
Navarra $15.95 (479017)
This easy-drinking Tempranillo blend also has Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that add complexity. The lifted nose is a mélange of heady aromas including spice, tar and mint while the flavours are in the tangy red cherry and cranberry zones. They're carried along effortlessly on the medium-bodied and medium-textured frame. The finish is warm and full of spice and juicy black plum with hints of sweet cassis. (VH)

**** drink now
Segura Viudas Cava 'Brut Reserva' Non-Vintage
DO Cava $14.95 (158493)
This is a popular go-to sparkling wine as an aperitif or with a wide variety of seafood or white meat dishes. Gorgeously coloured—light gold with a distinctive tinge of green—you'll discover aromas of citrus and mineral. A fine perlage (a steady stream of tiny bubbles) is the mark of classy bubbly and is evident here. Ripe grapefruit and white peach flavours form a focused attack on the palate while the finish is crisp and refreshing. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Tapeña Garnacha 2006
Vino de la Tierra de Castilla $13.75 (72553)
Earthy and mineral tones on the nose, this really delivers on the palate. Rich and expressive flavours of black berry and red cherry are carried along nicely with moderating acidity and nuances of coffee and spice. Medium bodied and with just enough texture, it's one of those wines that improves with each sip due to excellent balance and a crisp refreshing finish. Serve slightly chilled, ten minutes in the refrigerator before serving, either on its own or with pizza or burgers. (VH)

*** drink now
Tapeña Tempranillo 2006
Vino de la Tierra de Castilla $13.75 (72942)
Ripe red berry fruit and maraschino cherry aromas drift off the glass of this light-bodied red. The flavours are freshly squeezed black grapes and sweet cherries. Bistro-styled and easy drinking, the good balance and lovely tang on the finish set this up as a versatile food wine. Pair with all manner of grilled meats and sausage or pizza and pasta dishes. (VH)

Consignment Wine

California

Randall Grahm, the iconic creator of the California Rhone Ranger movement, is a terroir-ist with convictions-strong convictions. In the ultimate green harvest, he pruned his winery to a mere 10% of its former size, selling off mega-brands, 'Big House Red' and 'Cardinal Zin'. Brands that had made his Bonny Doon Vineyards almost as famous as himself, and himself a slave to the boardroom. He's now back to his roots with selective small vineyard plantings, farmed bio-dynamically. The labels are still idiosyncratic, i.e. weird and wonderful, but how about the wine? Articulate and personable Alex Krause, Bonny Doon's Director of Sales, recently visited Ontario and brought the following five wines to taste with winecurrent.

**** drink or cellar
Bonny Doon Vineyard 'Ca' Del Solo' Sangiovese 2005
San Benito County $21.75
It's very expressive and involved on the nose with spice box, cedar, tobacco and mineral aromas. Fruit from a single family vineyard produced this medium-bodied red with almost perfect balance attained through focused warm fruit flavours—red currant, cranberry and Montmorency cherry—and wonderful crisp moderating acidity. It finishes dry, from the ripe and supple tannin, and delicious. Drink now to 2014. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Rob Elvy of Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Bonny Doon Vineyard 'Ca' Del Solo' Nebbiolo 2005
Monterey County $36.35
The heady and perfumed aromas include rose, lilac and dark berry fruit. You'll find considerable tang that has been perfectly balanced with racy fruit flavours of sour cherry, strawberry and blueberry. This is medium bodied and nicely textured with a lingering fruity finish that layers on hints of tar and black licorice. Drink now to 2015. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Rob Elvy of Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)

**** drink now
Bonny Doon Vineyard 'Le Cigare Volant' 2003
California $36.35
This 'Rhone blend' is Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Carignan and Cinsault. Herbaceous aromas infused with tobacco billow off this medium- to full-bodied and fully textured gem. The flavours arrive in layers—cassis and black raspberry, black plum and spice box. The finish lingers, redolent of a classic, aged Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Le cigare volant (flying cigar) is the French term for flying saucer. In 1954, winemakers in that region had a by-law passed preventing flying saucers from flying over or landing in vineyards, on penalty of being impounded.) This has ripe finely grained tannin that provides good structure. Glorious sipped on its own, it's perfectly paired with lamb daube. Drink now to 2016. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Rob Elvy of Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)

**** drink now
Bonny Doon Vineyard 'Ca' Del Solo' Albariño 2007
Monterey County $26.50
There are honeyed fruit and spiced Muscat grape-like aromas galore off the nose while the juicy crisp flavours are in the ripe citrus and white peach zones. This is medium bodied and medium textured with seamless integration of a bracing spine of acidity. It finishes with a tingle of spritz and a lip-smacking gusher of citrus verve and tree fruit flavours. Pair with pan-seared scallops or grilled prawns, both under a drizzle of fresh lemon. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Rob Elvy of Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)

**** drink now
Bonny Doon Vineyard Le Cigare Blanc 'Beeswax Vineyard' 2006
Arroyo Seco $29.00
This is a Rhone blend of 75% Grenache Blanc with the balance Roussane. An attractive light straw colour in the glass, the aromas are delicate with white flowers and mineral notes predominant. The honeyed pear and apricot fruit flavours glide along effortlessly on a supple, almost creamy, texture. Medium weight and beautifully balanced, the lingering warm finish (14.5% alcohol) sports lemon zest and melon flavours. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Rob Elvy of Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)

Chile


****1/2 drink now
Vinedos Terra Noble Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Colchagua Valley $16.35
This is a big wine with deft balance and firm structure. There's a mélange of aromas with spice, smoke, tar and chocolate among them. The layered and concentrated flavours explode on the palate and glide along on a supple texture that includes ripe fine-grained tannin. Look for sweet juicy black raspberry, coffee bean and excellent moderating acidity. The finish is medium in length and perfectly balanced. Lovely sipped on its own, it pairs perfectly with steak and gourmet burgers. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Rob Elvy of Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)

Cheers,

Vic

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar