winecurrent.com
July 5th, 2008 Vintages Release

Winecurrent.com delivers a comprehensive and complete review of the Vintages Release wines tasted. No short cuts, no skimping, just honest and complete reviews of the wines that were made available for tasting at the LCBO, earning 3 stars and above, to help you make your selections.

This Vintages release and winecurrent newsletter begins with a feature on Argentina's signature grape, Malbec, from various regions. This is followed by a feature on Italy's Tuscany region and its classic grape, Sangiovese. The familiar country/region format follows in the 'Main Release' and has wines reviewed in the order they appear in the Vintages Release brochure.

Other highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Argentine Malbec Feature

***1/2 drink now
Finca El Origen Reserva Malbec 2006
Uco Valley, Mendoza $14.95 (065664)
This100% Malbec is from their high altitude (+1000 metres) La Esperanza vineyard. Look for expressive aromas of coffee and forest floor with ripe juicy fruit flavours—black raspberry and black currant—gliding smoothly on the fully textured and medium-bodied frame. This is an easy-drinking red that provides good value. Pair with shepherd's pie. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Finca Flichman 'Gestos' Malbec 2007
Mendoza $15.95 (068999)
Complex and alluring, expect a subtle nose that includes aromas of briary berry and gamey notes then a gorgeous mouthful of rich sweet concentrated fruit flavours with spiced black plum and Bing cherry to the fore. There's enough tannin for structure and interest plus generous acidity for impeccable balance; the 8 months of French oak has been seamlessly integrated. Give thought to a multiple purchase. (VH)

**** drink now
Finca Flichman Reserva Malbec 2007
Mendoza $12.95 (746727)
Expressive aromas of ripe black fruit and spice box roll off this well-structured and medium-bodied red. This is rich and ready to drink with a cornucopia of flavours including black raspberry, cherry and kirsch liqueur. The lingering finish layers on espresso roast and date flavours. Serve with all manner of backyard BBQ fare—burgers, gourmet sausage or steak. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Finca Sophenia Reserve Malbec 2006
Tupungato, Mendoza $16.95 (066837)
Another high altitude offering here with Tupangato amongst the most elevated—up to 1400 metres. Wines from this region are often marked by racy acidity. Certainly well priced, it delivers a chunky mouthful of ripe fruit flavours—cherry, currant and cranberry—oodles of moderating acidity and still perceptible tannin. Temper this with a two-hour aeration/decant then serve alongside a rare to medium-rare grilled strip loin. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Navarro Correas Gran Reserva Malbec 2005
Mendoza $18.95 (028928)
One of those Wow! wines that immediately grabs your attention with its great balance, delectable fruit-forward flavours and lengthy finish. Minty chocolate, cherry and spice box aromas segue to complex and concentrated Bing cherry, black briary berry and tarry flavours. These are echoed on the lingering finish along with a zesty hit of red cherry. Pair this with medium-rare roast beef, garlic mashed potatoes and Yorkshire pudding. (VH)

**** drink now
Weinert Malbec 2003
Mendoza $18.95 (556795)
This is round n' ready to go, but is certainly not without class or complexity. This crowd-pleasing red includes aromas of vanilla-flavoured coffee and spice box along with flavours of racy red berry fruit, and cassis. It's medium bodied, richly textured and sports a lengthy well-balanced finish. Divine when sipped on its own, it pairs well with clay-baked or beer can chicken. (VH)

Sangiovese in Tuscany Feature

**** drink now
Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
DOCG Chianti Classico $39.95 (719864)
Earthy, floral and oaky aromas on the nose, this silky-textured offering is full-bodied and fully textured. Richly concentrated flavours of dark berry fruit and cassis drench the palate then linger on the lengthy and well-balanced finish along with a fresh layer of spice and black plum. Pour this alongside Chateaubriand with béarnaise sauce. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Canneto Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano 2003
DOCG Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano $39.95 (065854)
From one of the crème de la crème variations of Sangiovese—called 'prugnolo gentile' in this region—it's been blended with a touch of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Expressive aromas and rich succulent flavours of dark bitter-sweet chocolate, Bing cherry and black currant meld perfectly with the moderating dollop of zesty tang that provides perfect balance. The finish is lengthy and redolent of spiced cherry. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Frescobaldi 'Tenuta di Castiglioni' Cabernet Sauvignon/Sangiovese 2006
IGT Toscana $22.95 (974394)
Opaque and brooding in the glass, this opens with aromas of spice, lilac and oaky nuances. There's plenty of tannin, oodles of racy zest and copious amounts of sweet ripe berry fruit on the full-bodied palate that fashion a lip-smacking mouthful of juice. It finishes with good tang delivered with a gusher of Montmorency cherry and racy cranberry flavours. Pour this paired with rare to medium-rare grilled pepper steak. (VH)

The Main Release

Dessert Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Commandaria St. Nicholas
Cyprus $17.95 (692491)
Fashioned from indigenous grape varieties on the Mediterranean island of Cyprus, the winery is located in the southern (Greek) portion of the island. This is lovely sweet wine with a mélange of flavours including candied and honeyed fruit, marmalade and sweet caramel. It's creamy in texture with a warm (15% alcohol) sweet lingering finish. Pair this with crème caramel and a fig bar. (VH)

**** drink now
Bacalhôa Moscatel De Setúbal 2001
DOC Setúbal, Portugal $11.95 (996181)
This is certainly one of the LCBOs most under-priced offerings. Made from the Moscatel grape, a.k.a. Muscat, this was fortified (17% alcohol) with aguardente (brandy) and saw at least 3 years in large seasoned barrels. Exotic aromas of honey, floral, spice, and citrus peel nuances set up this gorgeously textured nectar. The rich flavours are a fruit basket of ripe fig, sweet sultana raisin, honeyed pit fruit, and spice. Dark fruit or spice cake is a match made in heaven. (VH)

Ontario: White

****1/2 drink or cellar
Flat Rock Cellars 'The Rusty Shed' Chardonnay 2006
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (001552)
Full bodied, fully textured and chock-full of ripe tree fruit, this is a classy effort. Aromas and flavours of ripe tree fruit abound—ripe sweet pear, yellow peach and citrus. There's an underlying firm structure, terrific balance (from a spine of moderating acidity) and a finish that arrives in waves of sweet fruit and citrus tang then lingers for quite some time. (VH)

**** drink now
Pillitteri Estates Pinot Grigio 2006
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $14.95 (076018)
There's a gorgeous pink hue to this wine as Pinot Grigio (a mutation of Pinot Noir) can be a chameleon on the vine. Straw, floral and mineral on the nose, it's all about racy, crisp and refreshing tang on the palate. Expect a glorious rush of nicely textured red grapefruit, green apple and ripe lemon-line flavours to get and keep those gastric juices flowing. This is an appealing aperitif or can be enjoyed with all manner of seafood appetizers. (VH)

Ontario: Red

***** drink now
Pillitteri Estates Family Reserve Merlot 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $39.95 (071753)
A marvelous wine—it would beat the pants off most 2002 Bordeaux—it's been carefully crafted from a very good vintage. Highly perfumed aromas of menthol, blueberries and truffles billow from this medium-bodied silky-textured gem. A seamless stream of perfectly integrated flavours—sour cherry, cassis and black currant—glide effortlessly through the lingering finish. It's elegant and delicious; a fine wine to sip on its own or pair with Boeuf Bourgignon. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Pillitteri Estates Merlot 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (071738)
Quite expressive; enjoy spice, black plum and hints of aromatic bitters on the nose. It's medium bodied and nicely textured delivering a racy mouthful of flavour with red currant, ripe rhubarb tang and spiced black plum to the fore. Well balanced with a dry finish, it has enough perceptible tannin for good structure. This hits its stride with spicy food—chicken cacciatore or piri piri chicken. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Pillitteri Estates Select Late Harvest Cabernet 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 375 mL (071761)
This is delicate and delectable—expect a juicy mouthful of freshly sliced strawberry, rhubarb compote and ripe red raspberry flavour. There's no sign of cloying sweetness with its beautifully managed moderating acidity for counterbalance. It's medium bodied and nicely textured. This matches well with simple, not too sweet, fruit flans. Had mine with strawberry-rhubarb cobbler - dee-licious! (VH)

California: White

*** drink or cellar
Dry Creek Vineyards Dry Chenin Blanc 2007
Clarksburg $14.95 (994442)
This is a pleasant summer quaffing wine. It offers crisp citrus and green apple aromas then delivers a mouth-watering rush of zesty flavours including ripe lemon, white grapefruit and hints of pineapple and pear. It finishes very clean and racy making it a perfect partner for pan-fried freshwater fish under a generous drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon. (VH).

****1/2 drink or cellar
Grgich Hills Chardonnay 2005
Napa Valley $58.95 (346304)
Toast, vanilla and apple flavours waft from the glass of this classy and elegant Chardonnay. You'll find tropical fruit—pineapple and melon—on the fully textured and full-bodied frame along with ripe yellow apple and honeyed pear flavours. The oak has been seamlessly integrated while the finish displays impeccable balance between citrus and ripe pit fruit flavours. Lobster dipped in clarified butter matches well. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
St. Supéry Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Napa Valley $24.95 (339663)
Pungent, grassy and herbaceous on the nose, it shows textbook varietal aromatic characteristics. You'll also experience heady and racy herbal, citrus and pineapple flavours that mingle effortlessly on the palate. It's medium bodied, displays a firm texture and finishes clean and refreshing. Its perfect mate would be oysters in Pernod-laced cream. (VH)

California: Red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Rodney Strong Merlot 2004
Sonoma County $24.95 (497933)
This is expressive and succulent with gobs of rich dark chocolate, ripe mulberry and dark juicy cherry flavours. It's nicely textured, medium-bodied, extremely well balanced and sports a lengthy and luxurious finish that includes black raspberry and spiced black plum fruit flavours. This pairs very nicely with braised lamb shanks. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Sebastiani Zinfandel 2006
Sonoma County $18.95 (672667)
The strength of this wine and the Canadian dollar coalesce to make this a great bargain—liked it better than the '05 and it's almost 20% less money. Pick up a handful. The muted nose barely gives off red and dark berry fruit aromas while the fully textured succulent flavours—sweet black briary berry, blueberry and black Damson plum—are an absolute joy. This is medium bodied and really delivers on the lengthy finish; it's perfectly balanced by zesty sour cherry and deliciously fruit forward. (VH)

Argentina: White

***1/2 drink now
Alta Vista Premium Torrontés 2007
Mendoza $13.95 (037127)
This opens with a perfumed nose that would make Dior envious. Muscat-like aromas mingle with exotic spice box and Turkish delight before settling in to a wine that's a terrific summertime aperitif. Light to medium bodied, there's good texture and refreshing fruit flavours in the lemon and grapefruit zones with hits of yellow plum and peach providing good flavour balance. Serve with light appetizers—chicken, veal or seafood. (VH)

Argentina: Red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Bodegas Graffigna Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Pedernal Valley, San Juan Province $17.95 (060202)
High altitude fruit (1400 metres) with significant diurnal temperature variation has provided impeccable balance in this stunning wine. There's oak (it spent 12 months in French and American), dark espresso roast and ripe berry fruit aromas on the nose. The richly concentrated and juicy flavours include sweet cassis and dark Bing cherry while the texture is silky smooth and the balance perfect. The finish is warm (14.5% alcohol), but not too sweet, making it a lovely wine to have on its own—glass after enjoyable glass. (VH)

Chile: Red

***1/2 drink or cellar
Anakena Ona Cabernet/Merlot/Carmenère 2005
Rapel Valley $17.95 (059493)
There's loads of flavour, zest and tang in this medium-bodied red blend. Aromas of mocha and dark berry fruit provide segue to a well-balanced stream of black currant, assorted spices and kirsch liqueur flavours. It finishes with a mouth-watering tang that sets it up as a match for pasta with pork and tomato ragu. (VH)

Australia: White

****1/2 drink or cellar
Devil's Lair Chardonnay 2005
Margaret River, Western Australia $39.95 (543447)
This is a beautiful expression of Chardonnay from, arguably, the premiere Australian wine region for this varietal. It's bursting with vanilla, citrus and tropical fruit aromas. There are oodles of flavours with nectarine, zesty citrus and Granny Smith apple to the fore. Well balanced and buttery in texture, the medium-length finish is clean and refreshing and impeccably balanced. Pricey, but provides fair value. (VH)

Australia: Red

**** drink now
Barossa Valley Estate 'Ebenezer' Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Barossa Valley, South Australia $39.95 (039537)
Stuart Bourne, the brilliant winemaker at BVE, is a huge proponent of sustainable agriculture and value-for-money wines. Mint, berry fruit and hints of chocolate aromas emanate from this medium-bodied Barossa beauty. There's good fruit flavour—sweet and juicy black briary berry and cassis—that's held in check with good acidity and a supple tannin structure. This is looking for a Sunday roast of beef. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Chateau Reynella 'Basket Pressed' Shiraz 2005
McLaren Vale, South Australia $34.95 (510628)
All smoke and oak on the nose; it settles down nicely on the palate delivering a fruit basket of dark berry flavours with cherry, currant and raspberry predominant. There's tannin for structure and zesty tang for balance in this medium-bodied red. It finishes spicy with hints of licorice, spice and black plum flavours. Lovely sipped on its own, it also pairs well with rack of lamb. (VH)

**** drink now
De Bortoli DB Selection Petite Sirah 2006
Southeastern Australia $14.95 (694802)
(Previously reviewed in winecurrent) Petite Sirah (a.k.a. Durif) is not 'little Syrah' although Syrah is one of its parents. The lifted nose emits alluring spice box and ripe mulberry aromas. There's a big gusher of dense ripe fruit flavours—dark berry, spiced black plum and tangy red cherry—that drench the palate. It's full bodied and incredibly well balanced. Dusty tannins add structure and longevity; drink 2010 to 2017 or after a couple of hours in a carafe. The lengthy finish is fruit forward. Pick up an armful. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Devil's Lair Red 2003
Margaret River, Western Australia $49.95 (543454)
Minty and menthol aromas intermingle with nuances of chocolate-covered cherries on the expressive nose of this well-structured blend. There's still (after 5 years) noticeable tannin, but it's not out of whack as the flavours—cassis and dark berry fruit—match up to it well. This is good to go now after a two-hour aeration/decant, or serve with medium-rare grilled strip loin. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Taltarni Shiraz 2003
Pyrenees, Victoria $24.95 (937219)
We need more Shiraz from cool-ish Victoria; it's usually more balanced and often more elegant than Shiraz from warmer Aussie regions. Subtle aromas of spice box, black pepper, berry fruit and wisps of toast provide the opening notes to this harmonious red. The outstanding flavours sneak up on you—zesty red cherry, black plum compote and black raspberry—and are in perfect synch with the ripe ultrafine tannin structure and supple texture. Each taste is a little better than the last. Drink now to 2015. (VH)

New Zealand: White

****1/2 drink now
Mahi Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (063941)
Brian Bicknell, former winemaker at Seresin, is now the driving force behind this exciting new label. Stunning aromas and layers of flavours gush from this herbaceous and electrically charged SB—nettles, asparagus, and green pepper. On the palate it's all about zingy flavours of passion fruit, ripe citrus and gooseberry. It's very well balanced with a lengthy clean and refreshing finish. (VH)

New Zealand: Red

**** drink or cellar
Oyster Bay Merlot 2007
Hawkes Bay, North Island $18.95 (692343)
Well focused and beautifully textured, this is drinking well now and will do so on to 2014. You'll discover rich black plum aromas and flavours along with mixed spice box and herbal notes. It's particularly well balanced with everything melding together on the silky smooth finish. Hawkes Bay is New Zealand's über Merlot region. It's perfectly paired with braised lamb shanks. (VH)

New Zealand: Rosé

**** drink now
Sileni Cellar Selection Cabernet Franc Rosé 2007
Hawkes Bay, North Island $13.95 (599951)
This is a brilliant iridescent pink in the glass, but the real treat is in the tasting. It delivers a gutsy array of aromas and flavours—wild strawberry, zesty blueberry, spiced red currant with wisps of pipe tobacco. It's medium bodied and nicely textured with a medium-length spicy finish. Lovely sipped on its own as an aperitif, it has the stuffing to pair with chicken, veal and pork dishes. (VH)

South Africa: White

****1/2 drink now
KWV Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay 2005
WO Coastal Region $14.95 (328559)
Not for the faint of heart, there's smoke and oak on the nose before delivering a huge mouthful of delicious flavour on a full-bodied and hugely textured frame. On the palate there's a tsunami wave of expressive flavours that includes buttery oak, green apple, racy lemon zest plus ripe yellow peach and pear. The finish goes on and on, as do I... pick up an armful. (VH)

South Africa: Red

*** drink or cellar
Tumara Titan 2003
WO Stellenbosch $15.95 (922211)
There's dramatic and distinctive creosote and smoky aromas here that some love, others not. The flavors also incorporate them along with black currant and spice box. This is medium bodied, medium textured and finishes with good balance and fruity notes. As the Vintages catalogue suggests, have this with smoky meats. (VH)

France: Red

**** drink or cellar
Hecht & Bannier Minervois 2005
AOC Minervois $21.95 (017764)
Hecht & Bannier are Languedoc-Roussillon negociants sourcing premium fruit from carefully selected growers and sites. François Bannier provided this information directly to Winecurrent subscribers. “2005 was a very dry year and we sourced prime fruit (approximately 80% Syrah, 20% Grenache) primarily from the La Livinière and Aignes areas. We achieved a silky texture and vivacious blend by using only seasoned oak for ageing with just 60% in oak and the balance in stainless steel tank.” Oodles of ripe sweet dark berry and oaky aromas billow from this lovely wine. Boysenberry and other sweet luscious ripe dark berry fruit flavours drench the palate. There’s good balance and perceptible tannin, both providing ageing possibilities. Drink, after a two hour decant/aeration, now to 2014 along with a prime cut of grilled red meat. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine de Beaurenard Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2006
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $46.95 (324822)
This is a top drop from one of the all-time great producers, still family-owned, of this region in an excellent vintage. Toast, dried berries, spice box and raisin on the nose, the flavours are expressive and focused—black currant, cranberry and spiced black plum. It's full bodied and gorgeously textured with a lingering finish of dark berry fruit and mocha. Good to go now and will cellar a further ten years. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Château le Raz Cuvée Grand Chêne 2005
AOC Bergerac $18.95 (718932)
Bergerac is just east of Bordeaux and grows many of the same grape varieties; this wine is 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Round and ready to be enjoyed now, this delivers a juicy mouthful of fruit flavours with ripe Bing cherry and black plum predominant. It's well balanced with moderating zest and nicely structured with ripe and supple fine-grained tannin. It finishes with a generous dollop of sweet berry fruit. All in all, it provides good drinking and good value. (VH)

Italy : Red

***1/2 drink now
D'Angelo Aglianico Del Vulture 2004
DOC Basilicata $20.95 (971689)
There's loads of character in this rustic and gregarious offering. Aglianico (pronounced 'all yaw neeko') is not exactly a mainstream grape, but it can produce delicious wines such as this. Along with the black currant and black cherry fruit flavours there's an interesting mixture of aromatic bitters, exotic spice box and quite tangy cranberry. It's a bit grainy from perceptible tannin, but provides an interesting tasting experience. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours then serve with rare to medium-rare grilled red meat. (VH)

**** cellar
Sette Ponti Oreno 2005
IGT Toscana $77.95 (735597)
Layered, expressive, gargantuan—big wine, big dollars, fair value. There's a plethora of aromas and flavours including aromas of black licorice, chocolate and espresso roast and juicy ripe flavours of cassis and briary black berry fruit, and mixed spice. Impeccably balanced and satin textured, the finish in this medium- to full-bodied beauty is lengthy and luxurious. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto 2004
IGT Toscana $67.95 (072439)
Forget about buying five lesser wines for the price of one of these, if you have the budget this is worth every penny. This neighbouring vineyard to Sassicaia has produced a rich balanced and expressive wine that should delight trophy hunters and wine-lovers alike. If you've a cellar, it's worth picking up three or more. Look for floral, herbal, toast and black currant jam aromas on the nose with an explosion of flavours with cherry compote, spiced black plum and black currant to the fore. The finish layers on more solid fruit flavours, supple tannin and moderating acidity. Drink now to 2015. (VH)

Portugal: White

**** drink now
Alvarinho Deu La Deu Vinho Verde 2006
DOC, Sub-Região de Moncão $18.95 (040642)
This is textbook Vinho Verde made for warm-weather sipping and seafood. Crisp, clean and refreshing, it delivers a bracing spine of lemon-zest acidity and a delicious ladleful of ripe peach, pear and apple flavours. It's nicely balanced and offers a mouth-watering finish. Pair with grilled prawns drizzled with garlic-infused fresh lemon juice. (VH)

Portugal: Red

***1/2 drink or cellar
Adegaborba.Pt Reserva 2004
DOC Alentejo $20.95 (080606)
A blend that's predominantly vinified from the indigenous grape, Trincadeira, there's also 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Alicante Bouschet. This is marked with an outstanding and seemingly endless wave of fruit flavour—ripe, sweet and juicy cassis, black currant and dark cherry. There's good tannin structure and it's nicely balanced. Pair this with a generous helping of beef daube. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Luis Soares Duarte 'Perfil' 2005
DOC Douro $18.95 (080424)
Luis, former 'Port Winemaker of the Year', is also the winemaker for Quinta do Infantado. This is a blend of three top Port grapes. It begins and ends with a steady stream of ripe black berry fruit—raspberry and currant—infused with licorice and exotic spice. It's nicely textured and medium bodied with a persistent finish. Enough interest and flavour to be sipped on its own, it also pairs well with grilled chouriço (spicy smoky Portuguese sausage). (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Quinto Do Valdoeiro Touriga Nacional 2006
DOC Bairrada $21.95 (080333)
This is made from Touriga Nacional, the king of Port grapes, and showcases the fact this grape also produces excellent table wine. This is very smooth and drinking well now; look for ultrafine supple tannin, layers of expressive and mouth-watering flavours with racy boysenberry, dark Belgian chocolate and juicy briary berry among them. Medium bodied and medium textured, it sports a nicely balanced fruity finish. (VH)

Consignment Wines

Are you a wine-lover living in Ontario? You don't know the half of it! Less than half the wine selection of the LCBO reaches retail shelves. (read more)

Argentina

***** drink now
Dolce Stefania Malbec 2005
Mendoza $14.65
Rich, involved, balanced to perfection, this combines an explosion of sweet juicy fruit flavour held in check by zesty tang and a focused structure. The lifted nose delivers dark chocolate, mint and cherry aromas The dense and concentrated flavours arrive in wave after wave and include black currant, dark juicy raspberry and spiced black plum. It finishes with fruit and mouth-watering tang. The price-quality ratio is skewed so heavily in your favour this earned its final half star on value plus. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Rob Elvy of Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)

Australia

****1/2 drink now
Red Ridge Chardonnay Semillon 2004
Coonawarra $15.19
This Aussie blend (56% Chardonnay, 34% Semillon and 10% Sauvignon Blanc) punches well above its price. The alluring and expressive nose delivers billowing aromas of floral, melon and honeyed pit fruit. The layered and zesty flavours include ripe citrus tang, green apple and luscious sweet pineapple on its fully textured and medium-bodied frame. Incredibly well balanced, the lengthy finish is crisp and refreshing. Fabulous sipped on its own, it's perfect with chicken, veal or seafood. Order by the case of 12 for home or office delivery from Lifford Wine Agency. (VH)

California

****1/2 drink now
Clayhouse Vineyards Petite Sirah 2005
Paso Robles $33.15
The perfumed nose offers truffles, tar, spice box and ripe red- and black-berry fruit aromas. The palate-drenching flavours form a steady stream of Montmorency cherry, dried and crushed cranberry and kirsch liqueur. It's deftly balanced, well structured and layers on black plum and black pepper aromas and flavours—primarily from the 24% Syrah—on the lingering fully textured finish. Forty-year-old vines produced this gem. Order by the case for home or office delivery via e-mail from Aaron Shaw This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Halstead Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Central Coast $17.75
Hugely extracted and concentrated, expect big things from this big blend—Cabernet Sauvignon 80%, Petit Verdot 12%, Tempranillo 7%. (I know, but it's not my math) Expect a cornucopia of aromas and flavours that include chocolate-covered cherries, zesty cranberry and kirsch liqueur. These dramatic flavours are supported by medium- to full-bodied weight, a supple texture and wonderful ultrafine tannin for structure. The lingering finish delivers more of the same along with some mint and good moderating zest for balance. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Rob Elvy of Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
McManis Family Vineyards Viognier 2006
California $19.85
Nectarine, honey and melon aromas billow from the glass of this unctuous gem. It's well balanced, medium bodied and delivers its rich flavours of honeyed tree fruit—ripe pear, yellow peach and juicy nectarine—with a gorgeous, almost oily texture. It finishes clean and flavourful with notes of apple compote with a hint of spiced lemon. Pair with pan-seared scallops or grilled prawn kebabs. For delivery to your home or office by the case in Eastern Ontario, e-mail Lauren This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. and elsewhere in Ontario via www.robgroh.com. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Tin Roof Syrah-Cabernet 2005
California $16.15
Seventy-five percent Syrah, you'll find this offers tremendous value with the price-quality balance tipped in your favour. Smooth as silk and round n' ready to drink, look for harmonious and compact aromas and flavours of freshly picked red cherry and spice-infused black Damson plum. There's just a hint of sweet oak (aged only two months in a blend of French and American) in the wave of rich fruit flavours on the lengthy finish. For delivery to your home or office by the case in Eastern Ontario, E-mail Lauren This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. and elsewhere in Ontario via www.robgroh.com. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Wayne Gretzky Estate Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Napa Valley $45.19
This is seriously good wine from a fabulous vintage; drink now to 2012. Expressive aromas of minty chocolate, black briary berry and spice box rip from the glass of this medium-bodied richly textured gem. Layered and concentrated flavours abound, espresso roast, cassis and dark juicy cherry among them. The finish lingers with well-balanced tang and fruit flavours. It's a Great One to pair with medium-rare grilled strip loin. Order by the case from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. in the Ottawa area and Hobbs and Company elsewhere for home or office delivery. (VH)

Chile

**** drink now
Viña La Rosa Carmènere 2005
DO Cachapoal $19.19
This bistro-styled red really struts its stuff when paired with spicy and tomato-based food, meat-laden pizza and spaghetti Bolognese, for example. Cedar, mint and gamey on the nose, you'll find a mélange of tang and zest on the palate with red cherry and black plum to the fore. Medium bodied and nicely textured, it finishes with well-balanced and lingering flavours of kirsch liqueur and perfumed spice box. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Lifford Wine Agency. (VH)

France

**** drink or cellar
Château de Montmirail 'Cuvée des Deux Frères' 2004
AOC Vacqueyras $27.64
This is a rich and expressive GSM blend (predominantly Grenache Noir, plus Syrah and a touch of Mourvèdre) that displays deft balance and lip-smacking tang—both providing opportunity for food pairing. The sweet warm flavours (14.5% alcohol) are layered and persistent with cassis and spicy red cherry to the fore. The medium length aftertaste layers on yet more spice and finishes dry and zesty. Pair this with hearty fare, like curried lamb, steak tartare or pepper steak. Order by the case from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. in the Ottawa area and Hobbs and Company elsewhere for home or office delivery. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
François Lichtle Pinot Blanc 2005
AOC Alsace $18.42
Mineral and floral aromas plus nuances of hay drift off this gorgeously-textured beauty. The explosion of heady flavours that bathe the palate includes ginger-infused white grapefruit, spice, ripe lemon zest and white peach. It's medium bodied and sports a texture that's creamy and smooth as silk. Medium to full bodied with a crisp and refreshing finish, you'll want to pair this seafood—try spicy blackened fish. Order by the case from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. in the Ottawa area and Hobbs and Company elsewhere for home or office delivery. (VH)

Italy

****1/2 drink now
La Monacessa Verdicchio 2006
DOC Verdicchio di Matelica $22.35
You may have experienced Verdicchio, but probably not from this tiny appellation or of this quality. Animated aromas of mineral, spice and floral nuances billow from this fully textured pearl. Concentrated and involved flavours of sage, green apple and honeyed pear are underpinned by a focused spine of moderating ripe citrus acidity. There's a crisp and refreshing finish making this the perfect partner with seafood, especially shellfish. Pour alongside mussels steamed in this white wine. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Rob Elvy of Small Winemakers Collection at 613.530.0575. (VH)

**** drink now
La Torraccio di Presura 'Il Tarocco' Chianti Classico 2005
DOCG Chianti Classico $ 35.85
The alluring nose is very involved and complex, look for the following aromas—spice box, licorice, tar and hints of earthiness and smoked meat. The flavour on the palate is vibrant and focused with sour cherry and red currant to the fore. Medium bodied and medium in texture, this delivers a mouth-watering and lengthy finish of zest and tang plus compatible red cherry fruit flavours. Pair this with chicken cacciatore or lamb tagine. For delivery to your home or office by the case in Eastern Ontario, e-mail Lauren This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. and elsewhere in Ontario via www.robgroh.com. (VH)

New Zealand

****1/2 drink now
Staete Landt Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Marlborough $26.70
Intensely perfumed and richly concentrated, this is in a class of its own. Gooseberry and pungent herbaceous aromas segue scintillating flavours of zesty ripe citrus, white peach and ginger-infused lime. It's crisp and fully textured with a lengthy finish that's mouth-watering and lip-smacking good. A treat sipped on its own, it certainly has the balance, depth and oomph to pair with food. Try breaded calamari rings or pan-seared scallops. Order by the case for home or office delivery from Lifford Wine Agency. (VH)

Portugal

**** drink or cellar
Fita Preta Vinhos 'Sexy' 2005
Alentejo $22.45 - 750 mL / $15.95 - 375 mL
This unique blend (50% Touriga Nacional, 25% Tempranillo, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Syrah) was made by two young Turks—one a fabulous wine maker and the other a renowned viticulturist. Premium fruit selection, indigenous yeast fermentation and 20 days maceration helped fashion this fabulous gem. The dramatic nose and ripe, juicy flavours include briary berry, cassis, racy cranberry and wisps of oak. It's fully textured with perceptible tannin and a lingering zesty finish. Drink now to 2014. Order by the case for home or office delivery via email from Aaron Shaw This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

Spain

****1/2 drink now
Bodegas Hermanos Peciña Crianza 2000
DOC Rioja $24.95
Organically farmed forty-plus-year-old vines and three years in seasoned French and American oak have fashioned this unfiltered blend (95% Tempranillo with a titch of Garnacha and Graciano) into a tour de force in vine and wine management. Expressive aromas of dark berry fruit, leather and spice box segue rich and concentrated flavours of black currant and Bing cherry that wash over the palate in waves. Medium to full bodied and nicely textured; look for a well-balanced finish with good moderating acidity. Order by the case for home or office delivery via email from Aaron Shaw This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

New in the LCBO

California

**** drink now
Beringer 'Founders' Estate' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
California $19.80 (534263)
Dark cherry and cherry cola aromas waft from the glass of this medium-bodied and nicely textured Cab. Look for sweet and juicy fruit flavours on the palate that linger on the finish, as well; there's cassis, Bing cherry and boysenberry. Pair this with a rack of lamb rubbed with rosemary and grilled medium rare. This offers very good value. (VH)

**** drink now
Beringer 'Founders' Estate' Chardonnay 2006
California $18.80 (534230)
This is a wonderful expression of top-notch warm climate Chardonnay—full flavoured, deftly balanced, crisp and refreshing. Vanilla and honeydew melon on the nose, there's an abundance of luscious pit fruit and tropical fruit flavours—pineapple, melon, apple and yellow peach—along with a lovely stream of ripe citrus and hints of oak. It's plush in texture and crispy and refreshing on the aftertaste. Pair this with chicken or veal, lobster or crab. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Beringer 'Napa Valley' Chardonnay 2005
Napa Valley $27.90 (348342)
Expressive and involved, this is an elegant wine. Lots going on in the nose with aromas of smoke, oak, melon and tropical fruit delivered on a medium- to full-bodied frame with medium texture. There are layers and waves of endless juicy flavours that coat the palate with sweet pineapple, zesty citrus, melon and nutty nuances among them. The finish is well balanced. This wine is beautifully paired with chicken or turkey à la king. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Beringer 'Founders' Estate' Merlot 2004
California $19.80 (534255)
Assorted spice, red berry fruit and cranberry aromas drift off the glass of this medium-bodied and medium-textured red. The fruit flavours are all about tang and zest; look for red currant, red plum and cranberry infused with a generous dollop of spice. It finishes with sour cherry and imperceptible tannin. Match with pasta in a tomato-based sauce, try spaghetti Bolognese or Swiss steak. They'd both work well. (VH)

**** drink now
Beringer Founders' Estate Pinot Grigio 2006
California $17.95 (45641)
In a wine world awash in mediocre Pinot Grigio, this is welcomed relief. All floral and ripe sweet melon on the nose, this medium-bodied beauty delivers a delicious mouthful of racy juice with a fully textured mouth feel. The flavours are expressive and heady; expect ripe zesty citrus flavours infused with hints of candied ginger. The finish is lengthy, clean and refreshing. Seafood, especially shell fish, pairs well. (VH)

Chile

****1/2 drink now
Viña Carmen Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Maipo Valley $16.85 (358309)
This is a classy drop with much in its favour—deftly balanced, seamless oak integration, a supple tannin structure and gobs of delicious fruit flavours. Oh yes, it's well priced, earning its final half star on terrific value. Chocolate, cassis, minty and toasty on the nose; there's a cornucopia of flavours including zesty red currant, cranberry and chocolate-covered cherries. The finish echoes the palate along with wisps of espresso roast. Pair with AAA strip loin grilled medium rare. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Viña Carmen Reserva Carmènere Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Maipo Valley $16.85 (439166)
Exotic spice, cedar and ripe dark berry fruit aromas roll off this medium- to full-bodied blend (60% Carmenère, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon). The flavours are a rich gusher of tar, licorice and bitter sweet chocolate-covered Bing cherry. This is nicely balanced, fully textured and delivers a zesty and racy finish that's quite dry and markedly herbaceous. Pair with mint-rubbed rack of lamb. (VH)

**** drink now
Viña Carmen 'Classic' Chardonnay 2006
Valle de Casablanca $9.90 (235663)
Expressive and racy on the nose, look for citrus, mineral and alluring floral notes. The flavours are in the apple compote zone, complete with cinnamon and a touch of lemon zest. It's warm (13.5% alcohol), well balanced with a lengthy finish.. The quality-price ratio is skewed quite heavily in your favour and it earned its final half star on value. (VH)

France

***1/2 drink now
Château de Montguéret 'Crémant de la Loire' Brut Non-Vintage
AOC Crémant de la Loire $19.60 (621896)
Leesy, floral and notes of mineral on the nose, this delivers a light and tingly stream of bubbles with racy flavours of Granny Smith apple, white peach and key lime. Made from a different grape blend than sparkling wine from Champagne, it's made in the same meticulous manner. This is light bodied and well suited to be served as a welcoming wine or as an accompaniment to appetizers of chicken, veal or seafood. (VH)

New in Vintages


****1/2 drink or cellar
Beringer 'Knights Valley' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Knights Valley $39.95 (352583)
Knights Valley is rural, away from the hustle and bustle of touristy Napa, but certainly makes uptown wines. This is gorgeous—fragrant aromas of black currant and rosemary form an enticing segue to this plush and classy number. It's fully textured and medium bodied delivering a gusher of well-balanced and juicy ripe flavours—cassis, black raspberry and the moderating racy tang of plump red cherry among them. The finish is fruity, warm and incredibly lengthy with the ripe tannin structure showing through. This is a Vintages Essentials product, always in stock in selected stores. (VH)

Cheers!

Vic

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar