winecurrent.com
June 21st, 2008 Vintages Release

Winecurrent.com delivers a comprehensive and complete review of the Vintages Release wines tasted. No short cuts, no skimping, just honest and complete reviews of the wines that were made available for tasting at the LCBO, earning 3 stars and above, to help you make your selections.

This Vintages release and Winecurrent newsletter begin with a feature on wine regions adjacent to, and affected by, rivers of Europe. This is followed by a feature on Canadian wines for July 1st, Canada Day, followed by the familiar country/region format in the 'Main Release' that follows the wines in the order they appear in the Vintages Release brochure.

Other highlights in this Winecurrent newsletter include:

  • The Canada Day Feature highlights some truly outstanding local wines
  • Some stunning wine at favourable prices in the 'Upstream in Winecurrent' section that follows the 'Main Release'
  • A number of fine wines and absolute bargains in the 'New in the LCBO' section following the Upstream wines
  • Finally, the 'Consignment Wines' section catering to the discriminating wine-lover wishing to experience wines outside the mainstream offerings

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Europe's Wine Rivers Feature

Portugal and Spain

****1/2 drink now
Manoel D. Poças Júnior Colheita Port 1991
DO Porto, Portugal $32.95 (581140)
Tawny ports, unlike 'Vintage' ports, are ready to drink (even though this is only 18) on purchase and need no decanting. This offers seductive aromas of fig, spice and raisin and expressive flavours of caramel, marmalade and honeyed dried fruits. It's deftly balanced, glides without effort on a silky smooth frame and finishes warm and lip-smacking good. Pair with crème caramel or sip on its own after dinner - cigar optional. (VH)

**** drink now
Martín Códax Albariño 2007
DO Rías Baixas, Spain $17.95 (984906)
Martin Codax is the champion in this NW corner of Spain; it's not to be passed up when seeking a crispy vibrant white to pair with mussels, scallops or pan-seared fish. Melon and citrus on the nose, look for racy flavours of white grapefruit and ripe pineapple. It's light to medium bodied, fully textured on the palate and finishes clean and refreshing. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Lan Reserva 2001
DOCa Rioja, Spain $20.95 (042929)
Coffee and oaky aromas billow off this medium-bodied supple-textured gem. Look for rich and concentrated juicy black berry-fruit flavours of currant, plum and raspberry. There's also perceptible tannin and wonderful moderating acidity. Superb value here—a top quality producer from one of the best vintages in recent memory for only twenty dollars. Pair this with grilled strip loin after a two hour aeration/decant. Drinking now to 2015. (VH)

France

***1/2 cellar
Château d'Agassac 2005
AOC Haut Médoc, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur $54.95 (075721)
The nose is fairly muted, with effort you'll find dark berry fruit and oaky notes. However, there's a ton of fruit flavours, Bing cherry, black plum and currant, along with nuances of cassis and spice box. For now, this is all wrapped quite firmly in grippy tannin. You'll need to give this quite some time in the cellar; drink 2014 to 2019. This is from a top vintage year; it should be worth the wait. (VH)

**** drink now
Château Delord 2005
AOC Premières Côtes de Bordeaux $17.95 (075713)
Look for dark berry fruit and spice on the lifted nose then a solid stream of fruit flavours in the zesty cranberry and sour cherry zones. It finishes with some sweet ripe fruit—raspberry and black currant. Medium bodied and medium textured it'll shine paired with a tomato dish that's spicy; Swiss steak would do nicely. Drink 2010 to 2014. (VH)

****1/2 cellar
Château Haut-Vigneau 2005
AOC Pessac-Léognan $27.95 (029678)
From the well-regarded '05 vintage, this will offer a glimpse into quality red Bordeaux following short term ageing. Fruit forward and deftly balanced, ripe and concentrated flavours of mulberry, briary berry and notes of earthiness cascade along the fully textured palate. It's medium bodied with drying tannin. The oak has been seamlessly integrated and the finish lingers. Drink 2010 to 2016. This delivers full value and is worth a multiple purchase. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Domaine Gérard Neumeyer Pinot Gris Le Berger 2006
AOC Alsace $19.95 (066407)
Expect a funky and expressive nose of apple compote, exotic spice and musky aromas. The flavours are quite lovely with baked apple, yellow peach and spiced pear to the fore. It's a bit off dry with that sweet and tang experience that pairs so well with spicy Asian food. Give this a go with green curry chicken. (VH)

German, Austria and Italy

**** drink or cellar
Zilliken Riesling Kabinett 2002
QmP, Ockfener Bockstein, Germany $19.95 (071241)
Zilliken delivers quality wine that's value-for-money. It's primarily mineral and floral aromas on the nose, but gets into high gear on the palate with a delicious delivery of ripe luscious sweet pit fruit flavours, yellow peach, yellow plum and nectarine. There's good zing to balance off the sweetness while the finish is lengthy and luxurious. Best served as a welcoming wine, it would also pair well with pork or veal served with a sweet mango chutney. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Rabl Grüner Veltliner Vinum Optimum 2006
Kamptal, Austria $19.95 (078642)
Not long ago, Grüner Veltliner was the best-kept secret of wine aficionados. This grape has now become more main stream; try this to discover why. Floral, apple and truffle aromas mingle on the nose while the wave of vibrant flavours includes citrus tang, white peach and Granny Smith apple. It's medium bodied, full textured (almost creamy) and finishes pure and pristine. This is the perfect mate with seafood, especially shellfish. (VH)

**** drink now
Zenato Bardolino Chiaretto 2007
DOC Veneto, Italy $12.95 (045203)
Well made, well priced and well... delicious. This light- to medium-bodied rosé offers delightful aromas and flavours of strawberry, sweet ripe red cherry and spice box. The lingering finish is clean and zesty with good ripe berry fruit and a nice spine of citrus for good balance. Perfect as an aperitif, you could also serve with a lightly herbed chicken veal, or pork dish. (VH)

Canada Day Feature

****1/2 drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham Off-Dry Reserve Riesling 2007
VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (557165)
This racy 'Wine of the Month' delivers an impressive array of rich and ripe aromas and flavours. Riesling is arguably Niagara's best suited vinifera variety and few handle it better than Henry of Pelham. Mineral, citrus and floral notes cascade from this medium-bodied gem. You'll revel in flavours of pineapple and peach that seem just barely off dry when melded with the pristine stream of laser-like citrus tang. Versatile, this is a great way to start a meal or a gathering, it can also be paired with pan-seared freshwater fish that's drizzled with ginger-infused freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Jackson-Triggs Delaine Vineyard Riesling 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (017509)
This delivers a delicious mouthful of sweet luscious ripe fruit juxtaposed with crisp and racy citrus flavours fashioning a wine that pairs with spicy Asian cuisine. It 'magically' improves both the wine and the dish. Pear and mineral aromas on the nose, expect layers and waves of pineapple, honeyed pear and spice box flavours along with a delightful and moderating spine of citrus zest. (VH)

**** drink now
Peninsula Ridge A.J. Lepp Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2007
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $19.15 (078543)
This single vineyard effort is silky smooth and oozes with crisp and racy citrus flavours—think zesty and heady lemon-lime chiffon pie in a glass. This is medium bodied, clean and refreshing with copious amounts of ripe lemon, white grapefruit and key lime flavours. Pair this with shrimp ceviche or tuna sashimi. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Flat Rock Cellars Vidal 'Sweet Revenge' Ice Wine 2006
VQA Short Hills Bench $44.95 (672410) 375 mL
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This is South African-born wine maker Marlize Beyers' first crack at ice wine and what a triumph it is. Passionate and precise, she patiently coaxed every ounce of pleasure from the fruit. Harvested at a whopping 41 Brix (incredibly sweet grapes) producing 12.6% alcohol, this is well balanced and hugely textured. And, it's full of opulent fruit flavours—honeyed apricot, nectarine and pear plus a spine of racy citrus acidity to keep it lip-smacking good. The finish is lengthy and luxurious. Drink now to 2015 with simply prepared fruit desserts. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cave Spring Brut 2005
VQA Niagara Escarpment $29.95 (049981)
Only 300 cases made, don't dally if you wish to pop a few of these corks on Canada Day. Made in the manner of fine Champagne; this Chardonnay-predominant sparkler produces a wonderfully persistent fine stream of tingly bubbles. It's medium bodied and over delivers in heady flavour—citrus, ripe apple and pear with hints of baking bread. An elegant aperitif, it's incredibly versatile with food—seafood, chicken or veal appetizers as well as mussels, clams and fresh-shucked oysters on the half shell all work well. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Mission Hill S.L.C. Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2005
VQA Okanagan Valley $29.95 (068361)
Sexy aromas of exotic spice and alluring topical fruit, and sharp citrus notes billow off this luscious Okanagan blend. Tropical fruit and citrus highlight the flavour profile and they glide along effortlessly on a fully textured frame. There's great balance on the zesty finish keeping the wine clean and refreshing and you coming back for more. (VH)

The Main Release

California: White

**** drink now
Loredona Riesling 2006
Monterey County, California $16.95 (059782)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This is a gorgeous wine in the genre of an Alsace Grand Cru or fine German Spätlese for a fraction the price. Mineral and flint on the nose; it explodes on the palate with wave after delectable wave of sweet ripe peach, alluring spice, ripe pear and citrus flavours. Delivering that wonderful yin and yang, sweet and tang; it's divine on its own or paired with spicy Asian; try Peking Duck or a simple Thai noodle dish. A (2) on the sweetness scale, you won't notice as it's perfectly balanced. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Mer Soleil Silver Unoaked Chardonnay 2006
Santa Lucia Highlands $41.95 (066159)
Pure, pristine and pricey, but it's worth it just to experience this elegant unoaked naked Chardonnay. Totally fruit driven with nary a splinter of wood, you'll experience heady flavours of green apple and citrus entwined with white peach and subtle spice. Fully textured and in perfect balance, it finishes spicy, racy and zesty making it a lovely partner to scallops or shellfish under a squeeze of lemon. (VH)

California: Red

**** drink or cellar
Camelot Merlot 2003
California $14.95 (658070)
This is a perfect wine for your next gathering or if searching for a great value red. Aromas of dark berry fruit and dark chocolate segue the round, rich and robust flavours of sweet Bing cherry, kirsch liqueur and vanilla, The texture's silky, almost creamy, and there's enough acidity for interest and balance. Pour alongside burgers, pizza or steak. For those who scan Winecurrent reviews for the highly rated / low priced offerings for a multiple buy - Bingo! (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Chateau St. Jean Sonoma Merlot 2005
Sonoma County $35.95 (067926)
Chateau St. Jean (rhymes with clean - Jean is the wife of the owner) is a trustworthy supplier of fine wine at a fair price. Complex and hedonistic, it delivers a mélange of aromas and flavours—spiced plum and leather aromas that segue to rich and concentrated flavours of ripe black cherries dripping in minty semi-sweet chocolate and heady hits of dried crushed tangy cranberry. There's a supple texture and enough ripe tannin for structure. The finish lingers in perfect balance. (VH)

**** drink now
Lyeth L de Lyeth Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Sonoma County $16.95 (061028)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) A fine wine at a favourable price; you would do well to pick up a few for BBQ season. Mint and red berry fruit aromas mingle with hints of cedar and coffee on the involved nose. It brims with well balanced flavours of boysenberry, cassis and spiced black plum delivered on a creamy smooth texture bolstered by a ripe tannin structure. Pair this with a generous slab of rib eye steak grilled medium rare. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Matchbook 'Blockhouse' 2004
Dunnigan Hills $20.95 (066670)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) A unique blend—primarily Syrah and Tempranillo, with a pinch (7% each) of Malbec and Petit Verdot—it's an involved and lovely wine. The perfumed nose offers briary berry and oak aromatics while the juicy, black, ripe flavours include cassis, Bing cherry and vanilla that arrive in waves. The oak's well integrated, the texture creamy and the balance near perfect. The price-quality ratio is skewed heavily in your favour. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Red Truck Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
California $16.95 (36905)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This is a well-made, solid Cabernet Sauvignon that's an excellent choice for your summer grilling, whether you're doing burgers, steaks or lamb chops. It's medium bodied with quite intense flavours of dark berries and tree fruit, good balance and moderate tannins. If you're looking for a Cab that will please a range of palates, you can't go wrong with this. (RP)

Chile: White

*** drink or cellar
Casa Lapostolle Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Rapel Valley $13.95 (396994)
This is light to medium bodied with a pungent stream of herbaceous aromas and flavours. It's nicely textured with intense zesty flavours of white grapefruit, lemon, and green tea leaves. It finishes racy and clean with herbaceous citrus flavours. This is just the wine for summer patio-sipping or to pair with seafood appetizers. (VH)

Australia: Red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Chain of Ponds 'The Amadeus' Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Adelaide Hills, South Australia $27.95 (746040)
Glorious gobs of sweet jammy fruit are delivered on a bed of ripe tannin and a creamy texture in this full-bodied gem. Aromas of spice, toasty oak and dark fruit pervade while the flavours that drench the palate include teeth staining and concentrated sweet black cherry, cassis and mocha. The finish is fruit forward and lengthy. There's perceptible tannin, but they provide structure rather than detract from the wine. Pour this with rosemary-rubbed gigot of lamb. (VH)

***** two glasses drink or cellar
Jim Barry 'The Lodge Hill' Shiraz 2005
Clare Valley, South Australia $24.95 (998476)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) We both loved this. Cool evenings in the Clare provide the backbone to this red, keeping it far from jammy. Tar and black licorice aromas pour from this gutsy beauty. Sweet and juicy red berry fruit flavours are served up by the ladle-full in this medium-bodied beauty that is in perfect balance with its perceptible tannin, judicious use of oak and lovely dollop of tang. The gorgeous finish portends another five years of life and the perfect foil to grilled, medium-rare, beefsteak. The price to quality ratio is well in your favour. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Tatachilla Keystone Shiraz/Viognier 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia $18.95 (673889)
This is medium bodied, well balanced with deftly integrated oak. Along with the rich and concentrated black cherry and dark berry fruit flavours you'll find a moderating dollop of acidity that's expressed in cranberry and red cherry flavours. It finishes lively and clean, making it a natural to partner with pasta in a spicy meat sauce, spaghetti Bolognese for example. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Torbreck Old Vines Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $22.95 (010223)
Torbreck's best known for their 'old vine' ultra premium single varietal bottlings of Grenache, Mataro (a.k.a. Mourvèdre) and Shiraz. They regularly score 96+ / 100, are priced between $125 and $225 per bottle on release and are listed in the 'Excellent" category of Australia's highly touted Langton's classification. This is brimming with bold dazzling rich and concentrated palate-drenching flavours—juicy and jammy black raspberry, Bing cherry, and nuances of sweet vanilla and pipe tobacco. It's well structured, in good balance and finishes fruity and lengthy. Pick up a few. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Wakefield Merlot 2005
Clare Valley, South Australia $17.95 (683201)
Look for aromas and flavours in the spicy black plum and ripe black berry zones. It's medium bodied, fully textured, and still quite tannic, although a three hour aeration/decant would help smooth it out. The finish is fruit forward and delicious. Not the first time Winecurrent's reviewed Wakefield's Merlot, loved the '04 and the '05 is equally charming. Drink 2010 to 2015. This is very good value. (VH)

New Zealand: White

**** drink now
Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Marlborough, South Island $34.95 (304469)
Probably the world's most famous Sauvignon Blanc; it was the trail blazer for New Zealand's incredible surge onto the world wine stage. Grassy, with pungent nettles and spice on the nose, it provides a nicely textured and full flavoured attack on the palate, primarily from pineapple, gooseberry and melon. Well balanced and delivering a zesty finish; it pairs well with pan-seared freshwater fish. (VH)

France: Red

**** drink or cellar
Château Mirausse Le Grand Benchant 2006
AOC Minervois $18.95 (061267)
This is a gorgeous wine offering keen value and delectable flavours. Spice box, truffles and berry fruit on the nose, it provides an intriguing array of focused fruit flavours with red currant, crushed and dried berry and red cherry to the fore. It finishes dry, spicy, lengthy and warm (14% alcohol) with additional zingy and racy fruit. There's also perceptible tannin that becomes acceptable when poured with red meat grilled rare to medium rare. If not, drink 2010 to 2014. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Mas Des Bressades Cabernet/Syrah 2006
Vin de Pays du Gard $18.95 (712174)
Spicy and chock-full of bold dark berry fruit aromas, look for this to dazzle on the palate. Rich and concentrated flavours of mulberry, black briary berry and sweet black raspberry attack in wave after delicious wave. There's deft balance throughout while the fruit forward finish is medium length. No stranger to seasoned wine-lovers, shop early to assure yourself some. (VH)

Hungary: White

***1/2 drink now
Hilltop Hungaro Irsai Olivér 2006
Neszmély $13.95 (073262)
This opens with a tantalizing and unique combination of rosewater, exotic spice, and other Muscat grape aromas. Perfect for summer quaffing, it's light to medium bodied and very zesty and refreshing. It's brimming with citrus, yellow peach and sweet Bosc pear flavours that linger on the well balanced, yet clean and refreshing finish. Pair this with a stack of mussels, steamed in leeks, garlic and this wine. (VH)

Italy: White

**** drink now
Masi Colbaraca Soave Classico 2007
DOC Soave Classico $16.95 (724161)
This is not your run-of-the-mill Soave, but then nothing from Masi is run-of-the-mill. Expressive aromas of anise and assorted citrus waft from the glass of this medium-bodied crisp and refreshing white. There are oodles of zesty and mouth-watering flavours—with green apple, white peach and pear among them. There's good balance, suitable texture and a racy and refreshing finish. Pair with all manner of seafood. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Zenato Lugana Riserva Sergio Zenato 2005
DOC Lugana $29.95 (928218)
Wisps of alluring spice box and orange blossom drift from this fully textured, silky-smooth, full-bodied thing of beauty. Older vines and very low yields contribute to the magic of this wine. The flavours are delivered in waves caressing the palate with sweet ripe pineapple, sweet Bosc pear and melon. You'll find balance and elegance in the lingering finish. A lovely sipping wine before a meal, it also pairs well with chicken or veal with roasted root vegetables like carrot, parsnip or rutabaga. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Zenato Pinot Grigio 2007
IGT delle Venezie $15.95 (037648)
Citrus and floral on the nose, expect a supremely crisp, refreshing and racy white wine that also offers some very ripe fruit flavours. You'll find sweet ripe fruit—peach, nectarine and guava—along with a zingy splash of lemon-lime tang. Light to medium bodied and well-balanced, this pairs beautifully with steamed mussels or clams. (VH)

Italy: Red

**** drink or cellar
Altesino Rosso 2006
IGT Toscana $18.95 (658369)
There are three 'Wines of the Month', this being one, and they're all worth a long look. Most red wines spend some time with oak (barrels, chips or staves), but not this one and it delivers a lovely mouthful of fruit that's in the crushed and dried black currant and sour cherry zones. There's also sweet and ripe fruit on the finish, primarily briary berry and Bing cherry. It's medium bodied, well balanced with lots of tang and sports a lingering spicy finish with drying tannin. (VH)

**** drink now
Máté Mantus Merlot 'Sant'Antimo' 2004
DOC Toscana $29.95 (073502)
This is full bodied, full textured and full value. Mulberry, black bramble berry and spice box aromas segue the rich ripe concentrated flavours that echo the nose. You'll also find hints of coffee, tar and mocha. There's enough tang for balance and the finish is medium length. It's drinking now and tourtière pairs well. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Michele Castellani Amarone Della Valpolicella 'Cinque Stelle' 2003
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella $64.95 (075127)
This is elegant, well-priced and a candidate for short term cellaring. Look for aromas of lilac and cherry on the nose with impressive focused flavours of warm sweet (15.5% alcohol) dried dark berry fruit, coffee and black licorice on the fully textured and full-bodied palate. The tannin is perceptible, but acceptable even now, it's both drinkable and suitable for the cellar—drink now to 2014. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Zenato Valpolicela Superiore 2006
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella $17.95 (995704)
This earned its final half star on flavour and price; the price-quality ratio's well in your favour. Expressive black berry fruit and tarry aromas emanate from this gorgeous red blend. You'll find sweet ripe black juicy cherry and black currant on the palate and a lip-smacking moderating tang of cranberry on the finish. Well balanced and nicely textured, this pairs perfectly with chicken rollatini.

Portugal: Red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Quinta Dos Quatro Ventos 2005
DOC Douro $19.95 (0902742)
Rich, dense and concentrated aromas and flavours burst from the glass of this opaque red blend that's made from premium Port grape varieties. Layers of succulent flavours, including cassis, chocolate-dipped cherries and black raspberry, coat the palate while the lengthy finishes layers on spice, moderating acidity and a delightful earthiness. Medium bodied and very nicely textured, give this a go with Moroccan lamb tagine. (VH)

Arrive in Style

****1/2 drink or cellar
Matchbook 'Blockhouse' 2004
Dunnigan Hills, California $21.95 (66670)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) A unique blend—primarily Syrah and Tempranillo, with a pinch (7% each) of Malbec and Petit Verdot—it's an involved and lovely wine. The perfumed nose offers briary berry and oak aromatics while the juicy, black, ripe flavours include cassis, Bing cherry and vanilla that arrive in waves. The oak's well integrated, the texture creamy and the balance near perfect. The price-quality ratio is skewed heavily in your favour. (VH)

Upstream in Winecurrent

Vintages Release: August 2 2008

***** drink or cellar
Nederburg 'Manor House' Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
WO Western Cape $16.95 (68767)
Hand picked and hand sorted, the fruit for this stunning red was sourced from two premium dryland, low-yield vineyards in the Paarl region. While in Ontario, Chief winemaker Linley Schultz predicted a further five years of optimum drinking. Wisps of toast mingling with cherry and minty notes form the aromas while the gusher of fruit flavour includes boysenberry, cassis and minty mocha. The tannins are perceptible, but acceptable, the balance perfect and the gorgeous texture is silky smooth. It was fermented in open-top fermenters, received 12 to 14 months French oak ageing and was egg-white fined. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Nederburg 'Manor House' Shiraz 2006
WO Western Cape $16.95 (68775)
Complex and classy, look for lifted aromas of black pepper, spice box and tar that segue an elegant stream of flavours with juicy black plum compote and succulent black raspberry to the fore. There's supple texture, moderating tang, deftly integrated oak and a lengthy spicy and fruity finish. Sourced from Paarl and Philadelphia sub-regions, the two lots were vinified separately then meticulously blended. Pair this with rosemary-rubbed gigot of lamb. (VH)

Vintages Release: August 16 2008

***1/2 drink now
Santa Carolina 'Barrica Selection Gran Reserva' Petit Verdot 2006
DO Rapel Valley, Chile $14.95 (7484)
The mélange of aromas are a-typical—gravelly stones, exotic spice box and ripe fig. The rich and rustic flavours are quite expressive with dried crushed red and dark berry fruit, minerally notes and a good spine of moderating acidity. The finish is warm (14.5% alcohol) and lingering. This is a great food wine that will shine with meat-laden spicy pizza or pasta in a puttenesca sauce. (VH)

Vintages Release: September 13 2008

**** drink now
Santa Carolina 'Barrica Selection Gran Reserva' Merlot 2006
DO Rapel Valley, Chile $14.95 (27276)
Expressive aromas of black Damson plum and black cherry segue into flavours of approachable and warm black currant, spiced dark field berry and more plum. Round and ready for early consumption, this is medium bodied and nicely structured with ripe tannin and moderating acidity. The lingering finish layers on flavours of dark chocolate and hints of vanilla. This is very good value and is worthy of a multiple purchase. (VH)

Vintages Release: September 27 2008

****1/2 drink or cellar
Santa Carolina 'Reserva de Familia' Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
DO Maipo Valley, Chile $19.95 (684597)
Look for mint, dark berry fruit and tarry aromas off this richly concentrated well-structured red. Scintillating layers of flavours caress the palate with dark, juicy cherry, zesty cranberry and black raspberry to the fore. It's beautifully balanced, has 12 months of perfectly integrated French oak and delivers a luxurious finish of lip-smacking ripe berry fruit, supple tannin and zesty tang. Pick up a half dozen; it's great value. (VH)

Vintages Release: October 25 2008

***1/2 cellar
Château Clos de Merle 2005
AOC Côtes de Bourg, France $17.75 (86629)
Pleasing spice and dark plum aromas form the aromatic profile while the concentrated and warm flavours of cherry, black currant and spice box are still wrapped tightly in a rustic and grippy tannic structure. The drying finish in this red blend (60% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec) is redolent of crushed red currant and dried cranberry. Drink this 2011 to 2014 with a hearty beef daube. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Santa Carolina 'Barrica Selection Gran Reserva' Carmenère 2006
DO Rapel Valley, Chile $14.95 (640888)
Subdued aromas of spice box and red berry fruit open this medium-bodied and medium-textured red. Fairly tight and well-focused, expect black berry fruit flavours infused with mint and spice. There's generous tang and acidity while finishing clean, refreshing and on an herbaceous note. Pair this with pasta in a tomato-based sauce. (VH)

New in the LCBO

Australia

*** drink now
Banrock Station Sparkling Chardonnay Non-vintage
South Eastern Australia $12.80 (534974)
Wine sales allow Banrock to enthusiastically support environmentally-friendly projects all over the world including the local 'Bring Back the Salmon' project for Lake Ontario. This delivers a nice attack on the palate of quite sweet tree fruit and ripe citrus flavours. It's light bodied and perfect for summer sipping, either on its own or paired with light appetizers, especially crab cakes. (VH)

**** drink now
Deakin Estate Merlot 2006
Victoria $9.95 (577395)
Spice, cedar and dark berry fruit aromas open this silky smooth approachable red. Medium bodied and nicely balanced, you'll find oodles of rich ripe black plum flavours on the palate and lingering finish. There are also notes of ripe cherry and spice. This offers an incredible quality-price ratio—it's under ten dollars and overly delicious. (VH)

**** drink now
Deakin Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Victoria $11.05 (560839)
Bursting with potent herbaceous aromas—grass and sharp nettles; it's medium bodied, medium textured and quite refreshing. Look for a delightful mélange of flavours—penetrating lemon-lime zest, gooseberry and ripe white peach. Built for summer quaffing and warm weather cuisine, give this a go with pan-seared scallops, or prawns hot off the Weber, both under a generous squeeze of lemon. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Hardys 'Stamp of Australia' Riesling Gewürztraminer 2007
South Eastern Australia $9.95 (448548)
Very aromatic—rosewater, exotic spic box and tropical fruit, this light- to medium-bodied sipper offers a heady experience of vibrant citrus tang and spicy flavours on the palate. It's very sensibly balanced with only 11.5% alcohol, medium texture and a medium length finish. This is delightful sipped on its own and a go-to wine for those spicy Asian dishes like pad Thai or spicy chicken stir-fry. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Katnook 'Founder's Block' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Coonawarra $18.00 (620070)
This is the real deal—lifted aromas of eucalyptus, oak, dark chocolate and cassis alert you there's something special ahead. The rich and robust flavours and supple texture are all about balance. Succulent cherry, cassis, and spiced black plum flavours meld effortlessly with the ripe tannin structure, creamy smooth mouth feel and moderating stream of tang. A wonderful wine deserving high praise - it was difficult to spit. (VH)

California

***1/2 drink now
Twin Fin Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2006
California $11.95 (70375)
Montmorency cherry, cranberry with hints of earthiness on the nose; this racy and spicy offering delivers cranberry and sour cherry flavours on a medium-weight frame. There's a supple tannin structure and a focused finish. Pour alongside pizza or burgers. It's packaged in an enviro-friendly plastic polyethylene teraphthalate (a.k.a. PET) bottle—less weight, smaller size, re-cyclable. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Twin Fin Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2006
California $11.95 (70367)
Imitation is the most sincere form of flattery, and this blend is historically Australian. The label is as green as the packaging—a re-cyclable smaller-sized light-weight plastic bottle. Yellow peach, spice and floral aromas segue this zesty and racy blend. Mouth-watering flavours of intense lemon-lime and white grapefruit flavours mark this wine to be paired with mussels steamed in a sauce that includes a splash of this wine.

**** drink now
Twin Fin 'California Sunset' Rosé 2006
Monterey County $11.95 (78600)
There's a unique twist here (along with the screw cap) and it's the grape - it's Sangiovese, of Chianti fame. Spiced cherry and strawberry aromas billow from this seriously good rosé. There's a cornucopia of vibrant flavour—strawberry, spice, rhubarb with a good spine of acidity on the finish. It's balanced, clean and refreshing. It's a great quaffing beverage with enough body, structure and flavour to be poured alongside lightly herbed and spiced chicken, pork or veal. (VH)

New Zealand

**** drink now
Nobilo 'Monkey Bay' Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Marlborough, South Island $14.45 (620062)
There's pungent grassy, herbaceous and gooseberry aromas galore in this classy Kiwi. It's also chock-full of glorious fully textured flavours—ripe zesty lemon, pineapple and key lime pie. Gloriously rich and refreshing; it finishes with that magical duo of ripe succulent fruit alongside heady and racy acidity. Had mine paired with smoked salmon on a baguette smeared with cream cheese and adorned with thinly sliced red onion - an outstanding combination. (VH)

Ontario

**** drink now
Harbour Estates Winery Riesling 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.15 (60590)
This medal winner (Silver at 2007 All Canadian) pairs well with spicy Asian cuisine. Sharp and expressive on the nose; look for pungent aromas of mineral and citrus. The flavours are quite a treat—sweet and delectable yellow peach and yellow plum that are delivered effortlessly on a smoothly textured light- to medium-bodied frame. It's beautifully balanced, has sensible (10%) alcohol, and offers an off-dry experience that's very clean and refreshing on the lengthy finish. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Pillitteri Estates Winery Unoaked Chardonnay 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (64790)
Alluring aromas of spice box, freshly baked bread and apple segue flavours of citrus and almond in this light- to medium-bodied sipper. There's nice texture, good balance and oodles of tang and citrus bite on the lemon-lime finish. This pairs well with fish and seafood served under a drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)

South Africa

***1/2 drink now
Nederburg 'The Winemaker's Reserve' Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
WO Western Cape $12.75 (111526)
Round n' ready to go; this is a friendly and approachable red. Look for minty and dark berry fruit aromas on the nose with warm flavours (14.5% alcohol) of cherry and chocolate mint. Nicely structured with ultrafine tannin and well balanced with moderating acidity; it delivers fair value. Built for easy drinking, it has the oomph to pair nicely with burgers and gourmet sausage.

**** drink now
Nederburg 'The Winemaker's Reserve' Shiraz 2006
WO Western Cape $12.85 (527457)
If looking for a rich, ripe and robust mouthful of lovely Shiraz—you've found it. Spice box, black Damson plum and slight nuances of black pepper aromas dance from the glass. This oozes with juicy ripe dark berry flavours (currant and raspberry) and delivers it all with moderating tang, deft balance and a lingering finish. A crowd-pleasing wine with structure and class, pair it with grilled lamb, beef or pork back ribs. (VH)

**** drink now
Nederburg 'The Winemaker's Reserve' Sauvignon Blanc 2007
WO Western Cape $11.45 (382713)
This over-delivers on flavour and balance and earned its final half star on value. Look for a cornucopia of aromas and flavours that include zesty citrus, ripe pineapple and white peach along with pleasing herbaceous nuances. This is pure and pristine delivering a lengthy mouth-watering finish of zesty citrus. Medium bodied and nicely textured, pair this with pan-seared tilapia under a generous drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)

Consignment Wines

Austria

**** drink or cellar
Rabl Winery 'Spiegel Vineyard' Gruner Veltliner 2006
Kamptal, Austria $17.95
Look for floral and mineral aromas to open this very well-balanced and fleshy-textured white. The grape is known for good acidity while the premium producers are found in three small areas, Kampstal being one. Elegant and fully textured, you'll enjoy a rush of citrus and yellow peach flavours that linger on the clean and zesty finish. Often found in wine-friendly restaurants (order by the glass), you can also enjoy yours at home alongside pan-grilled white fish under a drizzle of lemon. Order by the case via email from Aaron Shaw This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

California

**** drink now
Lotus Winery Chardonnay 2006
Russian River $22.95
Vanilla, butterscotch and toasty notes billow off this medium-bodied opulent Chardonnay. Very rich flavours of tropical fruit, apple and white peach drench the palate. It's fully textured with a lingering finish of succulent ripe tree fruit and moderating citrus tang. Think of a well made white Burgundy at a quarter the price. Order by the case via email from Aaron Shaw This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

Ontario


**** drink now
Niagara College Winery 'Dean's List' Sauvignon Blanc 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95
This earns top marks for its incredible flavours and silky texture. Pungent aromas of nettles, black licorice and nettles blast from the glass. There's a delicious stream of exuberant lemon-lime, pineapple and guava flavours. It's medium bodied, lip-smacking good and it finishes clean and refreshing. The unique label is a report card showing a copy of Tony Aspler's original tasting notes—Tony is Canada's best-known wine writer and author. Order by the case via email from Aaron Shaw This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (VH)

Cheers!

Vic

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar