Winecurrent.com delivers a comprehensive and complete review of the Vintages Release wines tasted. No short cuts, no skimping, just honest and complete reviews of the wines that were made available for tasting at the LCBO, earning 3 stars and above, to help you in making your selections.

This release begins with a lengthy feature on California wines, timed to coincide with the wildly popular California Wine Fairs that are currently making their way across the country—Halifax, Ottawa, Toronto, Montréal, Québec City. Open to the public, you must purchase tickets on-line as none are sold at the door. Visit www.calwine.ca for more information.

Other highlights of this Winecurrent Vintages Release include:

• The 1985 Vintage Port from Feist that's a terrific bargain
• A classy 4 ½ star red from Chile that's under thirteen dollars
• Ch. Langoa-Barton—a 3rd growth Bordeaux for under sixty dollars
• Five wines from the Rhône Valley—all gorgeous and worth a look
• Italian reds that are not inexpensive, but provide good value

Following the Main Release, keep reading for these highlights:

• Innovative packaging from Boisset for its Mommessin brand
• Several lovely wines in the 'New in the LCBO' section - one under eight dollars
• Several wines of note in the 'Ontario Wineries' section

Rosenblum Holbrook Mitchell Trio 2004
Napa Valley $35.95 (059279)
Rosenblum produces legendary Zins; correction - Rosenblum produces legendary wines. This 41% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Franc blend is a Port-like monster weighing in with 15.7% alcohol. Luscious, succulent and chock-full of sweet ripe fruit aromas and flavours—black currant, kirsch liqueur and tarry black plum, it's full bodied, gorgeously textured and has just enough moderating acidity to keep it from tasting jammy. The oak is deftly integrated, not overpowering, and the tannins are perceptible, but ripe. Drink now, after a two hour aeration/decant, or over the next 6 years. (VH)


Clos du Val Zinfandel 2005
Napa Valley $21.95 (590216)
The muted nose is redolent of lilac and light red berry fruit. It's quite restrained, but this balanced beauty sneaks up on you, providing welcomed relief from over the top Zins that can outstay their welcome after a glass or two. Red cherry, and spicy black currant flavours intermingle with the silky, almost creamy texture. There's good structure in this medium-bodied red and the zesty finish keeps it dry and refreshing. Smoked and grilled back ribs slathered in a tomato-based sauce matches well. (VH)


Chimney Rock Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Stags Leap District, Napa Valley $51.95 (731810)
Tightly wound at present, this deserves a prime cellar spot for the next 3 years, to be consumed over the following five. From the famed and miniscule Stags Leap District of Napa—it spawned the giant-killer Napa Cab that shocked the French in 1976, and is only one mile by three miles in area. This is for trophy hunters and those looking to start or augment their cellar. Elegant fruit aromas and flavours of cassis, mint, coffee and ripe dark delicious cherries are still in the grip of serious tannins. The judicious use of oak, perfect balance and firm structure portend an outstanding wine. (VH)


Caymus 'Special Selection' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Napa Valley $155.95 (711663)
This is their flagship wine, weighing in at 14.5% alcohol and made for the ages. Black fruit on the nose—cherry and currant, it's a mouth-filling monster of frisky tannins and concentrated ripe dark berry fruit flavours. There are hints of tar and mint that add interest while the acidity moderates the intense flavours. The luxurious fruit-forward finish speaks to optimum drinking between 2015 and 2020. (VH)


Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Napa Valley $79.95 (222877)
Look for gobs of mouth-drenching teeth-staining juicy, ripe black fruit flavours in this gargantuan drop-dead gorgeous California Cab. Aromas of spice, black licorice and cassis blast from the glass. Amongst the rich and complex flavours that burst on the palate you'll experience vanilla (from the oak) sweetness (from the 15.2% alcohol) and cherry and black licorice flavours plus a pleasant nuance of aromatic bitters. The finish is lengthy and luxurious. Drink 2011 to 2018 with AAA beef tenderloin grilled rare or medium rare. (VH)


Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Napa Valley $37.65 (255513)
Velvety smooth and full of flavour, this earns its stripes with a dazzling array of aromas, flavours and moderating acidity that coalesce into a well-balanced and beautifully structured Cab. Fully flavoured—briary berry, spiced plum and black currant to the fore—and firmly textured, it manages that difficult balance between providing oodles of flavour and structure (from ripe fruit, supple tannins and 15% alcohol) and remaining approachable for drinking now. Medium to full bodied with a drying finish, it cries out for rare Beef Napoleon with roasted root vegetables. (VH)


Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc
Napa Valley $24.75 (221887)
It's forty years since the first vintage of this now iconic SB hit the shelves; it's lost none of its original appeal. Grass, tropical fruit and mineral aromas form a lovely segue to this smoothly textured and intensely flavoured beauty. It's warm (14% alcohol) and spicy with a lingering and refreshing finish. The flavours are all about lemony citrus, green apple and hints of gooseberry suggesting a pairing with pan-seared freshwater white fish under a sprinkling of herbs Provençal and a drizzle of lemon. (VH)


Frog's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Napa Valley $52.95 (932400)
Clearly the best of the Frog's Leap wines tasted in this Vintages release, you'll find wild and funky aromas of flint, aromatic bitters and spiced black berry fruit. It's medium bodied and medium textured with perceptible tannins and a touch herbaceous on the lengthy and expressive finish. Pair this with gnocchi in a mild tomato-based ragu. (VH)


Beringer Pinot Noir 2006
Napa Valley $27.95 (718668)
Aromas of smoke and red currant open up this new world Pinot. The flavours are sweet and ripe (almost candied) cherry and black currant. There's good tang on the finish for balance and all in all, a nice summer wine to be served slightly chilled. Good on its own, it matches well with smoked duck breast with a mango chutney. (VH)


Duckhorn Merlot 2005
Napa Valley $62.95 (992529)
Black plum, spice and sweet cassis aromas precede the sweet ripe fruit flavours—blackberry and cherry, that are still entwined by grippy tannins. Give it three years in the cellar or three hours in the decanter to soften them up and fully enjoy this fruit forward and spicy offering. It'll drink well from 2011 to 2015, especially with a slab of grilled red meat. (VH)


Chateau Montelena Chardonnay 2006
Napa Valley $44.95 (701748)
This outstanding Chardonnay has it all—finesse, flavour, and it's fun to drink. Up front and fruity on the nose, look for sweet vanilla, ripe apple compote and spice. Medium bodied and nicely textured, the flavours are in the apple and pear zones with an underlying hint of sweet pineapple. Deftly balanced and delicately handled—only a hint of oak and no malolactic fermentation, you have the pleasure of experiencing the fruit from unusual (for this varietal) hands-off wine making. Delicious on its own, it pairs perfectly with crab cakes or steamed lobster. (VH)


Jax Vineyards Y3 Chardonnay 2006
Napa Valley $33.95 (067264)
Tantalizing fragrances of floral notes, pit fruit, oak and spice form the perfumed nose of this medium-bodied, creamy textured Chard. Good fruit flavours—apple, tropical—abound on the palate and are joined by Bosc pear and peach on the well balanced and lengthy warm (14.2% alcohol) finish. There's a spine of pleasing acidity that allows this to pair perfectly with lemon chicken or grilled tuna under a squish of fresh lemon. (VH)


Sterling Chardonnay 2006
Napa Valley $22.95 (330233)
Scoring highly on the Wow! meter, it also displays some elegant nuances. Brioche, vanilla and smoky on the nose, the fruit gets into high gear by attacking the palate in velvety textured waves with tropical fruit, peach, citrus and green apple to the fore. Incredible balance and a lengthy finish portend a healthy four to five year drinking window. Pair with lobster bisque. This is a Winecurrent.com exceptional value pick. (VH)


Dutch Bill Creek Pinot Noir 2006
Sonoma Coast $34.95 (067207)
Sonoma Coast is a huge wine area sharing two dominant features that make it perfect for Pinot Noir; it's cool and grapes ripen slowly. The spice and tart berry nose is a bit unusual for Pinot, and so are the delicious and layered fruit flavours (cherry and cassis, plus mint and leather) that whoosh over the palate. There's good balance, perceptible (and acceptable) tannins and a very lengthy and warm (14.8% alcohol) finish. Fruit forward and almost robust, I loved it. You'll love it, too, especially with crown roast of pork with a side of baby bok choy and onion stir fry. (VH)


La Crema Chardonnay 2006
Russian River Valley $36.95 (067231)
Never a misstep from La Crema, expect tropical fruit—especially pineapple—and toasty aromas that provide segue to this robust, yet elegant Chardonnay. Apple and tropical fruit provide a huge mouthful of flavour in this medium-bodied, nicely textured and long, long finishing gem. There's enough tang for balance, and to let it match with a variety of chicken and game dishes—beer can chicken on the BBQ, for instance. (VH)


Seghesio 'Home Ranch' Zinfandel 2006
Alexander Valley $45.95 (070391)
California Zin fans looking for a blockbuster wine with abundant rich, concentrated ripe fruit flavours from gnarly old vines need look no further. There's also an unmistakable touch of class from this family-owned estate winery. In spite of the incredibly rich (15.7% alcohol) concentrated and Port-like flavours, there's enough acidity for balance and ripe tannins for structure. The texture is divine—as you might have guessed from the high alcohol and concentrated fruit. Dishes that pair well include rabbit stew and spicy beef or an after dinner treat of aged cheddar or Parmigiano Reggiano. (VH)


Francis Ford Coppola 'Director's Cut' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Alexander Valley $34.95 (061002)
Smoke, mint and tar aromas roll from the glass of this very nice medium- to full-bodied Cab. The flavours are involved and pleasing—spice, black pepper, a mélange of dark berry fruit and hints of mocha. There's good moderating acidity, enough ripe supple tannins for structure and interest and leisurely, lingering and luxurious finish of full fruit flavours, spice and pleasantly drying tannins. Good value, pair this with beef carpaccio drizzled with mustard aioli. (VH)


Cuvaison Chardonnay 2006
Carneros, Napa Valley $25.95 (988261)
The folks at Cuvaison advertise wine maker Steven Rogstad as from the midwest—and he is, except we call the midwest he's from, Saskatchewan. Smoky, oaky and tropical fruit aromas rip from the lifted nose of this gorgeous cool-er climate wine. Layers of flavours—tropical fruit, citrus and spice—wash over the palate in this medium-bodied, silky smooth, deftly balanced white. It shows good tang and finishes clean and refreshing. Redolent of a fine Burgundy, savour it on its own or pair with chicken or turkey with all the fixings. (VH)


Buena Vista Pinot Noir 2005
Carneros $29.95 (067421)
Meticulous selection and attention to detail—the multi-cloned estate grown grapes were handpicked at night, hand-sorted (twice), de-stemmed and cold soaked for 5 days. It was then fermented on the skins for 14 days and aged eight months in new French (33%) and the balance in one to three year old barrels. And the wine? It's lovely. Sharp spice and red berry aromas lead the way to a medium-bodied, deftly balanced wine that delivers gorgeous fruit flavours of red currant, cranberry and red cherry—as much Burgundy as California. The moderating acidity carries through to the finish, making it clean, refreshing and zesty. Very good value. (VH)




Feist Vintage Port 1985
Portugal $65.95 (070219)
Don't pass this by. 1985 was an exceptional year for Vintage Port and they're drinking very well now. This offers a unique opportunity; drink a 23 year old wine that someone else cellared for a pittance of its value. It's spicy, cinnamon to the fore, unctuous and a cornucopia of flavours—cassis, coffee, tar, and roasted almonds. Versatile, it can be served as the dessert, or it's magnificent with dark chocolate desserts, and wonderful with aged hard cheeses. Pick up three or four to consume over the next few years. (VH)



Nino Franco Prosecco Brut
DOC Prosecco Di Valdobbiadene $18.95 (349662)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Apple and citrus aromas and flavours flow through this light-bodied sparkler. The flavours are tight and tangy while the finish has oodles of cleansing citrus flavours that portend a gorgeous match to all manner of fish and sea food appetizers. Good, of course, to quaff on its own. (VH)

Flat Rock Cellars 'Unplugged' Chardonnay 2006
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $15.95 (068015)
Exotic aromas of spice box, lemon pie filling and green apple open up this medium-bodied sipper from one of Niagara's prominent and premiere wineries. It delivers good texture, offers a considerable spine of lemon and citrussy flavours and finishes medium in length, refreshing and clean. Steamed mussels in a white wine (this wine) sauce is a delectable pairing. (VH)


Henry of Pelham Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2006
VQA Niagara Escarpment $19.95 (268342)
Toast, oak and smoke aromas billow off this gorgeous expression of what cool climate Chardonnay grapes and meticulous wine making can achieve. Silky-textured waves of ripe tropical fruit and pear compote flavours wash over the palate in this full-bodied effort. Providing deft balance and a fruit-forward finish, this deserves a place at your family dinner table with roast chicken, a pork roast or ham. (VH)


Henry of Pelham Gewürztraminer 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (268359)
A pleasing nose of lemon, floral and other citrus notes provide segue to this approachable deck or patio sipper. Light to medium bodied, it delivers spice, citrus and melon flavours on the palate and the medium-length finish. There's a lovely bite of lime in there that makes it refreshing and a prime candidate for pairing with seafood ceviche. (VH)

Daniel Lenko White Cabernet Rosé 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.15 (075648)
There are some who have not yet cottoned on to the fact that good Rosé is just simply good wine. Look for red currant and cranberry aromas and flavours in this beautifully structured medium- to full-bodied effort. It's very well balanced with a lovely, almost velvety, mouth feel. The lengthy refreshing finish provides great sipping and for it to be paired successfully with lightly herbed and spiced chicken, veal or pork. (VH)

Francis Coppola 'Diamond Collection Gold Label' Chardonnay 2006
Monterey County $19.95 (708305)
You'll enjoy sweet tropical fruit aromas and more of the same on the palate. Melon and pineapple flavours to the fore here and it's quite rich and ripe. There's good moderating acidity on the finish of this medium-bodied uncomplicated and straightforward white. Good to sip on its own, there's enough going on to make it a candidate for pairing with chicken or veal appetizers. (VH)


Ironstone Vineyards 'Obsession Symphony' 2006
California $14.95 (355784)
Incredibly perfumed (you could dab it behind your ear) and unique; why don't more wineries use this varietal? It's a 'go to' wine when looking for a pairing with spicy Asian cuisine. Grapey, spice box and tangerine aromas waft from the glass. There's lots of residual sugar (think off-dry) with enough acidity to provide a clean finish. Pair it with Pad Thai or butter chicken. (VH)



Greg Norman 'California Estates' Pinot Noir 2006
Santa Barbara County $23.95 (687988)
Gamey and berry fruit aromas tee off this medium-weight, medium-textured Pinot. There's a bag full of flavours with red cherry, spiced plum and black currant to the fore. No rough edges here, it's very smooth and ready for early consumption, though it's a fairway from being finished, with at least three more years of good drinking remaining. The finish is especially appealing with licorice, coffee and ripe black cherry flavours intermingling with moderating acidity. Pair this smoked duck breast. (VH)



Botalcura Reserve El Delirio Syrah/Malbec 2005
Central Valley $12.95 (018630)
The price to quality balance is tipped crazily in your favour. Painstaking practices (hand-picked, egg white fined) a judicious dusting of oak (less than a third of the wine saw 6 months) and a splendid blend (60% Syrah, 40% Malbec) coalesce into this lovely wine. Spice box and black berry aromas set up this very expressive medium-bodied blend. There's a plethora of flavours including black currant, ripe black cherry, bramble berry and... well, you get the idea. The finish is lengthy, the balance near perfect, the overall experience delightful. A case or more for drinking over the next 24 months would be a wise buy. (VH)



Hope Estate Shiraz 2006
Hunter Valley, New South Wales $16.95 (059998)
Here's a big crowd-pleaser from a premium Hunter Valley winery that never misses the bulls-eye (e.g. the 'Cracker' and the 'Ripper'). Up front fruit flavours—spicy black plum, ripe Bing cherry and gobs of black currant—blend extremely well with hints of black pepper and toasty oak to fashion this well-balanced, silky-smooth, medium- to full-bodied beauty. The tannins add structure, but are quite ripe and certainly don't get in the way of easy drinking, now. Great wine and good value; pick up a few and drink over the next four years. (VH)


James Haselgrove 'Futures' Shiraz 2006
McLaren Vale, South Australia $25.95 (059857)
Oh my, this is huge. Very rich, robust and concentrated; look for aromas of black licorice and very ripe berry fruit in this full-bodied and fully textured Aussie fruit bomb. Flavours blast onto the palate with teeth-staining force—bramble berry, currant and cassis predominant. The lengthy finish is fairly well balanced and there's certainly the fruit and structure for this to keep until 2015. (VH)


Ringbolt Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Margaret River, Western Australia $19.95 (606624)
Round and ready to drink, this medium-bodied red (from a 'never miss' winery) is fully textured and impeccably balanced. Chocolate-covered cherries, spice and that Margaret River leafy/earthy characteristic are all present on the mid palate while the lengthy finish layers on a generous helping of kirsch liqueur. Give this a go with grilled and garlic-rubbed lamb tenderloins. (VH)



Seresin 'Leah' Pinot Noir 2006
Marlborough, South Island $39.95 (655167)
Meticulous handling of their land, their fruit and their wine making practices pay off in spades here—organic vineyards, hand-picked and hand sorted fruit, 3 ½ weeks skin contact, un-fined and unfiltered and just shy of one year in 25% new French Oak. This is a gorgeous wine. Nuanced and layered fruit flavours with red currant, cranberry and Montmorency cherry predominant along with hints of smoked meat and earthiness. Medium bodied, fully textured with a lengthy finish, this is very good value. (VH)



Willi Opitz 'Cuvee Red Angela' 2005
Illmitz $18.95 (071266)
The gregarious Herr Willi Opitz visited Ontario last week to lead a tasting of his wines. Luckily, this was tasted, reviewed and rated before he spoke. One might've been tempted to award 6 stars—he's very passionate. This outstanding red blend is not unlike a Cru Beaujolais in quality, taste and style. It's accessible and enjoyable with quite fruity flavours—strawberry and red cherry. There's good spice, a creamy texture and a wonderful spine of acidity, making it food friendly. Pair this with roasted crispy duck, potato pancake, Swiss chard and plum compote—Willi did. (VH)



Domaine Servin Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 2006
AOC Chablis, 1er Cru $28.95 (069146)
Great Chablis typicity here with a dry, mineral quality to this restrained, but good quality Chardonnay. The nose is muted with nuances of citrus and green apple while the palate is treated to a supple texture and flavours of lemon and white grapefruit that's infused with good minerality, especially on the lengthy clean and refreshing finish. Pair with freshly shucked Malpec oysters under a drizzle of freshly squeezed lemon. (VH)


Nicolas Potel Meursault Vielles Vignes 2005
AOC Meursault $39.95 (067850)
From the Burgundy region that arguably sets the bench mark for world class Chardonnay with its Premiers Crus, this is a delicious offering. Nutty and vanilla aromas set the tone for this medium-bodied and graciously textured gem. Ripe pit fruit (peach and nectarine) pair nicely with the citrus notes on the palate and generous finish. This shows finesse, balance and good structure. Drinking well now and on to 2015. (VH)


Domaine Bonnard Pouilly Fumé 2006
AOC Pouilly Fumé $21.95 (065987)
This is the region from which we drank our Sauvignon Blanc before the Kiwis made their Marlborough region famous. The grassy herbaceous aromas and zippy lemon-lime flavours tip you off to the varietal, but there's more to it than that. It has a supple texture, good weight and a lovely clean, refreshing citrus finish that begs for pan-grilled prawns in garlic and butter. Well priced and worthy of your consideration. (VH)



Château Langoa-Barton 2004
AOC St. Julien $59.95 (664128)
A rare opportunity presents—own one of the world's finest wines for under sixty dollars. This Chateau received high honours in the famous 1855 Classification by earning Troisième Cru Classé (3rd Growth) status, earning it a place in the box seat section of fine wines from Bordeaux. There are ample aromas and flavours of cassis and currant that are well balanced by moderating acidity. The tannins are still quite noticeable, but provide structure and ageing potential—drink 2012 to 2020. Even so, it's quite smooth and creamy in the mouth with a medium-length finish that added on some earthy and gamey notes. (VH)


Château le Doyenné 2005
AOC Premières Côtes de Bordeaux $25.95 (061739)
Particularly good value, this earned its final ½ star on price. Red licorice and mulberry on the nose, the flavour profile is nuanced, layered, and simply delicious—cassis, tangy sour cherry, chocolate and leather. Expect perceptible, but acceptable, tannins, velvety texture, and a lengthy, spicy, fruit forward finish. Drink now, after a two hour decant/aeration, and on to 2014. BBQd back spareribs slathered in a spicy tomato-based BBQ sauce would be a great pairing. (VH)

The following Rhône wines offer excellent value


Cave de Rasteau 'Rasteau Ortas Prestige' 2005
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $19.95 (985929)
From one of the best co-operatives in France and a premiere village in the Côtes du Rhône region, this is one lovely effort. Primarily a GSM blend (Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre), it's chock-a-block with ripe sweet warm (14% alcohol) bramble berry and spicy black plum fruit flavours that've been infused with a zingy shot of tang. It keeps the wine well balanced and you coming back for more. (VH)


Château d'Or et de Gueules Les Cimels 2005
AOC Costières de Nîmes $15.95 (597104)
Sumptuous, rich and robust, expect a glorious wave of concentrated flavours—cassis, tar and licorice. Hedonistic, it caresses the palate with creamy nectar. Fully textured, you'll love the well-balanced finish and the lingering spicy fruit flavours. It's a stunning wine now and will stay that way another three to five years. The price to quality ratio works in your favour; pick up a cartful while you can. (VH)


Château Pesquié Terrasses 2005
AOC Côtes du Ventoux $14.95 (652313)
From a little known southern part of the Rhône, here's another example of the fully flavoured, well priced wines produced there—this earned its final ½ star on price. Black pepper, spice box and ripe black cherry aromas and flavours abound in the medium- to full-bodied red blend. It's round and ready drink now and over the next five years. The texture is supple, and the balance is perfect as the sweet fruit flavours are offset by the lovely gusher of red currant and red cherry tang. Decant/aerate for an hour or two then serve with any manner of grilled red meat. (VH)


Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2005
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $45.95 (071888)
Wow! You expect a lot of wine for fifty dollars and this one over-delivers. Opaque in the glass, this offers a dazzling experience with its cornucopia of rich and concentrated flavours—mulberry, vanilla, black plum, blackberry, spice, cassis. Medium to full bodied, there are firm tannins and a ladleful of moderating acidity. You could drink it now with a two hour aeration/decant alongside beef that's grilled only rare to medium rare; best kept in the cellar for drinking 2011 to 2020, though. (VH)


Perrin & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape 'Les Sinards' 2005
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $19.95 (005975)
The Perrin family, of Château de Beaucastel fame, are one of the world's leading producers of fine wines and this is no exception. Oodles of fruit forward flavours—black currant, spiced Bing cherry and black plum—coat the palate in silky smooth waves. Medium bodied and sporting a medium-length finish, this shows delicate balance and elegance with every sip. Pair it with Cassoulet de Carcassonne. (VH)



Elena Walch 'Castel Ringberg' Pinot Grigio 2006
DOC Alto Adige $25.95 (937904)
This is Pinot Grigio like no other you've tasted—opulent, mouth filling, delicious. There are spice and mineral notes on the nose before getting into high gear with ripe yellow peach, Bosc pear and warm (14% alcohol) sweet apple flavours that are delivered on a bed of plush and creamy smooth texture. It finishes with a moderating lemon-lime zing that provides good balance. Stunning on its own, it has the oomph to match poultry, veal and chicken dishes. (VH)


Tommasi Soave Classico Vigneto Le Volpare 2007
DOC Soave Classico $17.95 (070870)
A gorgeous offering from a premium producer, this delivers a well-balanced wine at a very good price. Spiced ripe pear and green apple flavours mingle effortlessly with tantalizing hints of lime sherbet and lemon pie filling. This has it all, moderating acidity for balance, a nice mouth feel and a lengthy finish. Mussels steamed and served in a cream and leek sauce would partner well. (VH)



Palladino Barolo Riserva S. Bernardo 1999
DOCG Piedmont $59.95 (060814)
This is showing its age by the colour, a bricky orange, and shows its incredible promise with every swirl, sniff and sip. The perfumed nose offers tantalizing aromas of roses, cedar, dark berry fruit and mint. Medium to full bodied, it provides a mélange of flavours that include black cherry, spice box, black licorice and tangy red berry fruit. The lengthy and luxurious finish replays the aromas and flavours. It's worth every penny. (VH)


Itynera Primitivo 2006
IGT Salento $14.95 (070805)
Honest and uncomplicated, this was built for summer enjoyment while paired to burgers or gourmet sausages grilled on the barbie. You'll find oodles of sweet ripe and juicy black berry fruit aromas and flavours here. A balancing red cherry zing on the finish adds balance allowing it to be quite food friendly. Drink now and over the next twelve months. (VH)


Antinori Solaia 2004
IGT Toscana $154.95 (987586)
This cellar dweller is a stunning effort from one of the more famous 'Super Tuscans'. The nose is redolent of smoke, tar, black licorice and mint while the mammoth flavours of bramble berry, dark chocolate and kirsch liqueur are simply stunning, though still wrapped tightly in a tannic grip. This is very full bodied, complex, layered and promises incredible enjoyment 2012 to 2020. Highly recommended. (VH)


Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino 2003
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $29.95 375 mL (035295)
This is one of the treasures of the wine world at a very good price. Brunello (the grape) is a clone of Sangiovese, the grape of Chianti. Lilacs and spiced berry on the nose, expect flavours in the dark berry fruit zone plus cranberry, red currant and strong hints of mushroom and chocolate. It's full bodied, tannic with ladles of acidity that make it delectable and food friendly. Pair this with osso bucco or venison steaks 2012 to 2018. (VH)


Marsiliana 2001
IGT Toscana $46.95 (060871)
This is a whopper of a wine delivering gobs of rich and concentrated flavours—Bing cherry, black licorice and mocha on a full-bodied frame that has a supple texture and a very lengthy well-balanced finish. Cabernet Sauvignon predominant, you'll pick it up on the finish with its drying tannins, mint and cassis flavours. The tannins add structure and potential ageing. Drink after a two hour aeration/decant over the next seven years. (VH)


Melini Chianti Classico Riserva Vigneti La Selvanella 2003
DOCG Chianti Classico $24.95 (069385)
Not run-of-the-mill Chianti and a very good bargain to boot. The blistering 2003 vintage proved a boon to Melini, allowing them to produce one of their finest wines. Hugely textured and full bodied; look for rich ripe flavours of spicy black cherry, cedar and truffles. The finish is well balanced with moderating acidity and clean red fruit flavours—cranberry and currant. Pair with lasagna, or penne pasta in a ragu. (VH)



Morgadioa Da Torre Alvarinho Vinho Verde 2006
DOC, Sub-Region Monçãi $17.95 (960955)
Won't make it to Portugal this year? Here's the next best thing. It's zesty and zingy (citrussy), full of spice (ginger) and fruit flavours (peach and green apple) with a lovely creamy texture and a refreshing finish. What's not to like? Sip on its own or do as they do in Lisbon and the Algarve, drink it with grilled sardines or your favourite shellfish under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (VH)



Quinta Da Cortezia Touriga Nacional 2005
Vinhos Regional Estremadura $18.95 (070292)
Made from one of the premiere Port grapes, this delivers quite a mouthful of complex and rich fruit flavours—mulberry, black plum and red cherry, and some exotic spice box and herbal notes. Medium bodied and nicely textured, you'll find deft integration of oak, wonderful balance and a lingering finish of dark fruit flavours and chocolate. Nicely paced and nicely priced. (VH)


Quinta Dos Carvalhais Colheita 2004
DOC Dão $18.95 (013474)
(This is not Port - Colheita means 'harvest' in Portuguese.) Smoke and oak on the nose, this rich and robust red is outstanding. It'll need a three hour aeration/decant or three years in your cellar, either way, it'll be worth the wait. The lifted nose delivers spiced and ripe dark berry fruit and hunts of tar. Concentrated flavours of black currant and black raspberry attack the palate while the finish adds a dollop of moderating tang. Pair this with what you smoke and/or BBQ for guests—ribs, gourmet sausage or pork loin. (VH)



Bodegas Lan Gran Reserva 2000
DOC Rioja $24.95 (928622)
Almost always oaky, this is no exception although it's well integrated; it's also aromatic, fully flavoured and firmly tannic. The perfumed bouquet includes espresso roast, leather and ripe black berry fruit. There's loads of weight and structure on the palate along with flavours of kirsch, cassis and tar. The finish is medium length with hints of tobacco. Pair this with grilled venison or elk tenderloin. (VH)



It's hard not to notice the response by suppliers to the LCBO's call for 'alternative, environmentally-friendly packaging' (a.k.a. not glass). Boisset was first to hop on board with Tetra Pak in 2005 with the wildly-successful launch of French Rabbit. Now Boisset have shown their mettle in launching new packaging—aluminum bottles—for their Mommessin brand, the world's largest producer of Beaujolais. Lightweight, attractive and 100% re-cyclable, they've added a cool new twist besides the screw cap. It's the 'cooldot'—thermosensitive ink that changes colour, alerting you to when the wine has reached ideal serving temperature. And, it chills faster than when in glass. The wine is kept from the metal container by an inert (epoxy phenolic) liner, similar to that used in stainless steel wine vats and soft drink cans. Sure, it's innovative and enviro-friendly, but we're also here for the wine; reviews follow.


Mommessin 'Grande Reserve' Chardonnay 2006
AOC Macon-Villages $14.95 (63446)
A pleasing nose of honeydew melon and sweet floral notes opens this pure and pristine light- to medium-bodied sipper. It's clean and refreshing (citrus and assorted tangy fruit flavours) on the palate and finish. Versatile, it's quite pleasant sipped on its own and also matches up well to grilled white fish. The aluminum bottle's quite elegant—desirable for gifting or bringing along to a dinner party. (VH)


Mommessin 'Grand Reserve Red' Beaujolais 2006
AOC Beaujolais $14.95 (63438)
Quintessential Beaujolais here with exuberant aromas of spring flowers and freshly-crushed grapes—the latter due to the special process (carbonic maceration) by which Beaujolais wines are fermented. The flavours are fresh and fruity, cherry and strawberry to the fore, without the astringency (tannins) usually associated with red wine. Serve chilled, not cold—the 'cooldot' works this out—either on its own or with chicken, veal or pan-seared salmon. (VH)



Nobilo 'Regional Collection' Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Marlborough $15.60 (554444)
A knock-out wine, it delivers a raucous array of aromas and flavours—gooseberry, lemon zest, clove-infused red grapefruit and kiwi fruit. It has considerably more texture than expected from a wine with a bracing spine of acidity, but it's there and it's lovely. Well balanced and nicely structured, it finishes lengthy and refreshing. Pair with grilled prawns under a drizzle of garlic butter and fresh lemon. (VH)



Château des Charmes 'St. David's Bench Vineyard' Gamay Droit 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (582353)
Owner Paul Bosc discovered this special clone of Gamay in his vineyard and has propagated it with great success and to well-deserved accolades. Full of fresh fruity flavours—cherry, strawberry and red currant—it layers on elegance and structure with its supple texture and perfumed aromas of herbs, spice dark cherry and forest floor earthiness. It paired extremely well with roasted veal loin stuffed with pistachio and wild mushrooms. (VH)


Colio Estate CEV Lily Sparkling 2006
VQA Ontario $14.85 (509083)
A vintage sparkling wine of this calibre for under fifteen dollars certainly deserves your attention. Predominantly Riesling, this is zippy and refreshing with grapefruit and lemon peel aromas and flavours to the fore. It delivers lots of bubbles and a smooth texture throughout. It's very refreshing on the finish making it a favourite for serving to guests as a welcoming wine with freshly picked or purchased strawberries. Versatile, it sips beautifully on its own and has the body to pair with light chicken and veal dishes. (VH)


Peninsula Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (43678)
Earning its final half star on value, this tingly clean white was made for goat cheese salads and warm summer fun. Via low yields, no malolactic conversion, stainless steel tank fermentation and no oak, master wine maker Jean-Pierre Colas has fashioned a zingy SB showing hints of grass and gooseberry on the nose and generous citrus flavours on the palate. It has a nice texture from some short lees ageing and 13% alcohol. (VH)


Royal DeMaria Cabernet Franc Icewine 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $89.20 (637652)
From the world's most decorated exclusive ice wine producer, this is a stunner. Ripe sweet black plum compote and black briary berry aromas and flavours wash over the palate in fully textured wave after wave. This sensuous dessert wine is creamy smooth and, amazingly, not cloying. The moderating acidity takes care of that. Can be easily served as the dessert, it also matched well to French vanilla panna cotta with orange chutney served with a sour cherry brittle. (VH)


Strewn 'Two Vines' Cabernet Merlot 2006
VQA Ontario $12.95 (590109)
A lovely red blend—47% Merlot/36% Cabernet Franc/17% Cabernet Sauvignon, that's incredibly smooth and a treat to drink now. The 12 months in oak is well integrated and the tannins imperceptible. Fully flavoured—black currant and bramble berry flavours to the fore, it finishes nicely with good balance and a clean taste of red cherry. This earned its final half star by delivering very good value. (VH)



Navip 'Fruška Gora' Riesling 2006
Serbia and Montenegro $7.65 (9548)
What a lovely wine; off-dry, fruity and simply delicious. It's not a typical Riesling, the nose is Muscat and spiced eggnog, but it delivers an aromatic and interesting array of aromas and flavours. Medium bodied, almost creamy, the sweet succulent flavours of apple compote and sugared pears (with hints of almonds) abound. The finish delivers that wonderful sweet and citrus tang that makes pairings with spicy Asian so delicious. (VH)



Red Guitar 'Old Vine' Tempranillo/Garnacha 2005
DO Navarra $12.85 (54007)
Spice and sweet berry aromas form the interesting nose of this medium-bodied red blend. You'll experience a lovely gusher of juicy black berry and Bing cherry flavours that are infused with moderating acidity that provides excellent balance and a tang in the aftertaste. Ripe firm tannins add structure and will allow this to age gracefully to 2011 and beyond. You'll be hard pressed to find a better crowd-pleaser for burgers and steaks at this price. (VH)

Lailey Vineyard Vidal 2005
VQA Ontario $11.95
Wine maker Derek Barnett works wonders with this grape. Off-dry, it offers bold flavours (citrus and tropical fruit salad) that age has infused with honeyed pear. Look for moderating zesty tang that balances the sweetness on its medium- to full-bodied and creamy-textured frame. Pair it with rich seafood like lobster, drizzled with freshly squeezed lemon. Order your case direct from Lailey www.laileyvineyard.com. (VH)

Cheers, Vic

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desperate
	Represents a half star
	We both agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar