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March 15th, 2008 Vintages Release

Vic Harradine (VH) was away for this Vintages release (he adds two reviews after the main release); he'll be back for the April Vintages release tasting. Mark Tandan (MT) is your guest reviewer. Vic has known Mark for a number of years and is pleased to have him contributing to Winecurrent.

Mark's extensive involvement with wine and wine tasting includes 15 years as a restaurant wine buyer and sommelier. He's garnered multiple awards for his wine programs at a number of culinary establishments. Currently he's the Assistant Coordinator of the Algonquin College Sommelier Program and Instructor for the Advanced Course. His tasting focus is on the ratio between a wine's quality and its price, right in line with Winecurrent's thinking.

This release begins with a 'Food and Flavour' theme. The main release follows with the familiar country/region format. Winecurrent reviews wines in the same order they appear in the Vintages Release catalogue—a logical sequence for you.

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

**** drink or cellar
D'Arenberg 'The Hermit Crab' Viognier/Marsanne 2006
McLaren Vale, South Australia $16.95 (662775)
There's plenty of depth of aroma here, with spicy pear and fresh flowers leading the way. The mouth feel is both rich in texture and high in acidity, a rare combination in whites but one that lends more food-pairing options. Nice balance and a solid finish round out this well priced wine. It's equally at home with pan-seared scallops or baked Cornish hen. (MT)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Servin Chablis 2006
AOC Chablis $19.95 (525394)
There's good concentration on the nose here, including lemon, chalk and floral notes. It's quite steely with strong acidity, bone dry and fairly light in body. However, unlike some lighter whites, this one isn't short in the finish. Try it with sole in lemon sauce. (MT)

**** drink or cellar
Darting Gewürztraminer Kabinett 2005
QmP Dürkheimer Nonnengarten, Pfalz, Germany $16.95 (944181)
More of us should be enjoying these expressive, low alcohol white wine styles. Enjoy concentrated aromas of peach, tangerine and honey with a very subtle floral undertone. Unlike many wines from this grape, the floral component does not dominate the aromas. The palate is medium sweet with exceptionally well-balanced acidity, and this ultra light wine finishes forever. A beautiful partner for New England-style clam chowder. (MT)

**** drink now
Santa Rita Medalla Real 'Reserva Especial' Chardonnay 2006
DO Casablanca Valley, Chile $18.95 (303628)
Here are all the elements of a rich oaked Chardonnay but not in an over-done style. Tropical fruits, along with pear and baked apple, join with vanilla and butterscotch to form the aromas. It's dense and full bodied, and the creamy texture has just enough acid to extend the flavours into a long finish. Try pairing with scallops finished in lemon butter. (MT)

****1/2 cellar
Miguel Torres 'Mas La Plana' Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
DO Penedès, Spain $44.95 (617456)
Here's a Cabernet with a great pedigree - the 1970 vintage beat out top international wines, including Chateau Latour, in the Paris Wine Olympiad. From a 29 hectare vineyard dedicated to Cabernet Sauvignon, Mas La Plana consistently impresses. Classic characteristics of cassis, black currant and mocha abound in the glass. The full-bodied palate has big, chewy tannins that need time in your cellar - best from 2012-2020. Pair as you would with any classic Cabernet - steak and grilled red meats. (MT)

**** drink now cellar
Grgich Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Napa Valley, California $78.95 (930206)
The bouquet reveals layers of complexity—from cassis and mint through cigar box, cherry and chocolate aromas. Plentiful dark fruit flavours mix with well-integrated oak on the slightly chalky palate. The wine has great depth and length, and while it will benefit from a few years in the cellar, you could try it tonight with rare beef tenderloin. (MT)

***** drink or cellar
Pellegrino 'Passito di Pantelleria' 2006
DOC Sicily, Italy $16.95 / 500 mL (585703)
This tremendous dessert wine is made from Zibibbo, the name Sicilians use for the Muscat of Alexandria grape. The gorgeous nose includes orange peel, apricot and tangerine aromatics with a marzipan complexity. Although quite sweet, it maintains great acid balance and is one of the more versatile dessert wines I've come across. Try it with a cheese tray, tiramisu, or on its own. (MT)

The Main Release

Canada: White

*** drink now
Black Prince Chardonnay 2006
VQA Prince Edward County $14.95 (68882)
It's wonderful to see wines from Ontario's newly minted wine region on the LCBO shelves. The wine opens with a subtle cool climate fruit profile, mainly lemon and pear aromas. It's quite crisp and light in body. Green apple flavours round out the palate of this Chablis - styled wine. (MT)

Canada: Red

**** cellar
Osoyoos Larose 'Le Grand Vin' 2004
VQA Okanagan Valley $39.95 (626325)

This wine results from the partnership of Groupe Taillan of Bordeaux and Vincor Canada (now owned by Constellation Brands), formed to create premium Bordeaux-style red from grapes grown in British Columbia. The richly scented nose includes cassis and plum with raisin and date aromas, along with dark chocolate. The full-bodied, long finishing wine is still young and needs time for the tannic structure to settle, but shows great promise. Best from 2010 to 2018. (MT)

U.S.A.: Red

***1/2 drink now
J. Lohr 'Los Osos' Merlot 2005
Paso Robles $18.95 (27516)
From a very consistent producer, here's an approachable, ready-to-drink Merlot. Very ripe raspberry, black cherry and plum combine with milk chocolate aromas. It's full bodied with supple tannins and finely balanced. Enjoy with braised lamb shank or slow-roasted short ribs. (MT)

Argentina: Red

****1/2 drink now
Alta Vista Premium Malbec 2005
Mendoza $12.95 (677443)
Expect a jammy nose of blue and black berries with clove and vanilla aromas. This full-throttled Malbec is juicy with good acidity and very soft tannins, and nicely balanced by the alcohol. It earns an extra half star for being such good value, and will go very nicely with grilled ribs coated in a smoky barbeque sauce. (MT)

Australia: White

***1/2 drink or cellar
D'Arenberg 'The Dry Dam' Riesling 2007
McLaren Vale $16.95 (942953)
I'm still sometimes surprised by the quality certain Australian producers are able to coax from Riesling, a grape I think better suited to Germany and Ontario. Here we have another solid example. This wine opens with intense grapefruit and lime aromas, together with floral and mineral notes. It's very racy and quite light in body, and would be best served as an aperitif or alongside a baby green salad in citrus vinaigrette. (MT)

****1/2 drink now
Greg Norman Estates Chardonnay 2005
Victoria $19.95 (552083)
Greg may have struggled at The Masters, but he's proving adept in the game of wine. The aromatics here are a nice balance of melon and pear with a touch of oak. Additional tropical fruits form the flavours, and the medium-bodied frame shows excellent balance and length. Enjoy this with pan-seared orange roughy and mango chutney. (MT)

Australia: Red

***1/2 drink or cellar
Fifth Leg Red 2005
Western Australia $19.95 (24950)
The Fifth Leg is a blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Its nose is refined and complex, combining blackberry, pepper and light earth aromatics with vanilla and coffee nuances. This rich, softly structured blend is full bodied and the fruit flavours linger nicely. Although a little lighter in structure than some wines from Western Australia, this wine shows a lot of finesse. Good value. (MT)

**** drink or cellar
Grant Burge 'Cameron Vale' Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Barossa $21.95 (937276)
Here's yet another solid wine from a very consistent producer. You'll find mocha, dark cherry and plum aromas with mint, pepper and vanilla on the nose. Fresh and medium bodied with very ripe tannins, this wine is superbly balanced and finishes very long with plenty of fruit. Enjoy with braised lamb in a red wine peppercorn jus. (MT)

France: White

**** drink or cellar
Château de Beaucastel 'Coudelet de Beaucastel Blanc' 2006
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône $32.95 (48892)
Viognier, Marsanne, Bourboulenc and Clairette make up the blend of this intriguing wine. Intensely aromatic, it offers green apple, lemon and orange blossom on the nose. The palate has a somewhat oily texture, and although soft in acidity, it shows wonderful balance. This non-oaked, medium-bodied wine has great length and will pair nicely with smoked mackerel. (MT)

France: Red

**** drink or cellar
Château Fougas Maldoror 2004
AOC Côtes de Bourg $33.95 (665583)
This wine's focused aromas show dark berries, cassis and oak with a touch of violet. It has refreshing acidity, soft but present tannins and is beautifully-balanced. The medium-bodied frame carries the flavours into a lengthy finish. It's drinking well today but will cellar effortlessly for a further 2 to 3 years. Try pairing it with bison stew. (MT)

**** drink or cellar
Château St. Georges 2003
AOC St-Georges-St. Émilion $35.95 (960310)
The wine opens with strong aromas of red and dark berries and further yields bell pepper, dark chocolate and savoury spices. Structurally sound, it carries nice acidity with moderately firm tannins and medium-full weight. It's well balanced today, but will integrate even more in another 3 to 4 years. I'd suggest serving it with rare roast beef. (MT)

**** cellar
Christian Moueix Pomerol 2005
AOC Pomerol $29.95 (903013)
The aromatics here are of very clean red berry fruit and none of the leafy character often found in Pomerol. Oaky notes of vanilla and milk chocolate round out the nose. The wine's still young, and the significant tannins, although ripe, are a bit much for the fruit today. An ideal cellar candidate, this effort will benefit from about 5 years aging and is good value for this tiny premiere appellation. (MT)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Château St. Estève d'Uchaux Grande Réserve 2005
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages $17.95 (996199)
Notes of garrigue with tobacco combine with red and dark plums on the nose. The palate features clean cherry fruit flavours, refined tannins, a medium body and good balance. This wine has a lengthy finish and is great value. Shovel the snow off your buried BBQ (if you can find it), grill up some gourmet sausages, enjoy this and think of spring! (MT)

Germany: White

****1/2 drink or cellar
Gunderloch Jean-Baptiste Riesling Kabinett 2006
QmP Rheinhessen $16.95 (480517)
In the world of white wines, German Rieslings are undervalued. Translation? Load up your cart with this lovely wine! It features pink grapefruit, peach and honey aromas with a subtle minerality. Medium sweet in the mouth with good acidity, it's nicely balanced and surprisingly long. Its light body would make a nice partner for seared tilapia with an apricot glaze. (MT)

Italy: Red

**** drink or cellar
Michele Satta Piastraia 2002
DOC Bolgheri Rosso $39.95 (709980)
Sangiovese is blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah to create this beauty. The nose opens with dark plum, currant and cherries, joined by tobacco and bell pepper, then dark chocolate and mineral nuances round out the complex bouquet. Well structured, but not aggressive, this is deftly balanced and medium in body. Take it to your favourite Italian BYOB restaurant, give your server a taste, and order Osso Bucco. (MT)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Zenato Merlot 2005
IGT delle Venezie $19.95 (16030)
Not everyone thinks of Merlot when they think of Italy, but a surprising amount of the grape is planted there, especially in the cooler northern regions of Veneto. Here, aromas of sweet red currants and raspberry intermingle with oak and bell pepper. This Merlot is softly structured with mellow yet persistent tannins. Medium in weight, it's well balanced and has good length. Enjoy before dinner with a selection of mild cheeses. (MT)

Portugal: Red

**** drink or cellar
Colleja Douro Reserva Red 2004
DOC Douro $17.95 (627224)
This has a deliciously concentrated nose of chocolate cherries, cassis and sweet spice. Soft in the mouth, it has very ripe, lingering tannins on a medium-bodied, long finishing frame. Try pairing this great value red with beef carpaccio. (MT)

New in the LCBO

Look for these wines in the LCBO General List

Australia

***1/2 drink now
Lindemans 'Bin 65' Chardonnay 2006
South Eastern Australia $10.90 (142117)
Trustworthy, tried and true with its twenty years plus of delivering honest value; this vintage is lean, clean and refreshing. Aromas of pineapple, melon and floral notes waft from the subtle nose while the flavours are in the tangy citrus zone with pink grapefruit and lemon-lime to the fore. It's well balanced, with just a hint of oak, and sports a zingy finish that allows it to pair beautifully with seafood under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (VH)

California


****1/2 drink or cellar
Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Paso Robles $16.85 (738823)
First, some geography—this is a 'Vintages Essentials' product you'll find in most stores, occasionally in the General List section. It takes top grade in the 3 R's; it's rich, robust n' ready-to-drink. Displaying excellent structure, with its ripe perceptible tannins and moderating acidity, it's really about a superior tasting experience—dark chocolate, ripe black cherry, a hint of vanilla and a lingering and tantalizing mélange of ripe red and black berry aromas and flavours. It's an outstanding wine, wherever they stock it. (VH)

Cheers,

Vic and Mark

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar