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This is the last Winecurrent newsletter to which Rod Phillips will contribute. Rod is pursuing new ventures in wine writing. Vic wishes Rod the very best in these new ventures. Rod can be contacted at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..

This release starts with a Cabernet Sauvignon feature, highlighting Cabs from the usual (and some less usual) regions. It's followed by the main release.

Vic was away for this tasting, so Rod handled it. Vic has contributed reviews to the other sections of the newsletter.

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

Cabernet Sauvignon feature

Bordeaux

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Lalande les Moulins 2005
AOC St Julien $29.95 (61036)
This is a really delightful St. Julien with delicious fruit (black cherry, cassis) and notes of coffee and chocolate. Smooth textured with slightly edgy acidity, and well structured, with a good but very manageable grip, it's drinking well now and will last another ten years. The usual food: red meats. (RP)

California

**** drink or cellar
Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Napa Valley $45.95 (718452)
Look for black cherry and cassis dominant in the aromas and flavours in this big, juicy Napa Cab, with notes of spice and black pepper with a hint of cedar. It's medium-plus in body, has a tangy texture and a good finish. (RP)

***** drink or cellar
Dominus 2004
Napa Valley $90.95/750ml (63057) or $201.95/1500m (63487)
This is one beautiful Cabernet, and if you can run to the magnum for long-term cellaring, do. You'll have an elegant Cab with powerful, stylish texture, fine structure, and delicious and dense flavours. Look for lots of complexity, with dark fruit and berry accented by coffee, spice, pepper, chocolate, herbs and tobacco. Best drunk from 2012 and for many, many years after. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Dominus 'Napanook' 2004
Napa Valley $39.95 (63065)
If you had to choose between two bottles of Napanook or one bottle of Dominus, which should you choose? For long-term cellaring, go with The Master, but if you want a wonderful Cab to drink now and over the next five-six years, take this. It's big and stylish, full of concentrated dark fruit, with complex notes of herbs, cloves, pepper and coffee. It has a generous, plush texture and makes excellent drinking with grilled red meats. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Rodney Strong 'Alexander's Crown' Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $39.85 (329961)
Here's a very well-made Cabernet that offers intense flavours of sweet black cherry and plum and cassis, with spiciness to spare and hints of mint. It's well structured, has good tannic grip and delivers a long, flavour-filled finish. Drink it now or cellar for three or four years, then drink it until 2015. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Rodney Strong 'Alden Vineyards' Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $39.80 (599795)
The fruit here (dominated by sweet dark plum and cherry) is remarkably concentrated and pure, and you'll find good complexity in the accents of spice and herbs. The prominence of the fruit doesn't detract from the excellent structure, and this stylish Cabernet makes fine drinking with grilled red meats. It's drinking now, and the good grip from the sweet, ripe tannins allows you to hold it another ten years. (RP)

Chile

****1/2 drink or cellar
Montes 'Alpha' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Colchagua Valley $21.80 (322586)
From Montes' Apalta Vineyard, this blend (it's 10% Merlot) really delivers for the price. It's almost floral and perfumed on the dark fruit nose, and the dense fruit flavours (blueberry, black cherry and plum) are accented with notes of mint, spice and smoke. It has a silky texture, mature tannins, and a long, focused finish. This wine is aged to the sound of Gregorian chants. It sings, too. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Morandé Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2005
Maipo Valley 13.85 (57984)
Pablo Morandé is one of the pioneers of the modern Chilean wine industry and here he's offering a very well-priced Cabernet that delivers across the board. The fruit (black cherry and cassis) is concentrated and complex, the structure is very good, and the tannins are drying and drinkable. In all, there's excellent value here, and if you're looking for wine with you're next steak, grab a bottle of this. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Santa Rita 'Medalla Real' Reserva Especial Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Maipo Valley $19.90 (275594)
This wine's as much a mouthful as its name, and it demonstrates that Chile is continuing to produce excellent wines at very reasonable prices. Santa Rita's 'Medalla Real' line is terrific, and this Cabernet delivers intense flavours of dark fruit (cherry, cassis, plum, black berry) with notes of chocolate, coffee, spice, herbs and pepper. The sweet tannins are still firm and, if you can hold off, I suggest opening this from 2010. (RP)

Argentina

**** drink or cellar
Catena Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Mendoza $19.95 (985002)
This is a very good Cabernet from one of Argentina's top producers. It delivers rich, dense dark fruit flavours with lots of complexity, but it's a little close to the jammy end of the spectrum for my personal taste. However, it will appeal to you if you like that opulent, slightly over-the-top flavour. It's complex, has good structure, and an attractive tannic grip. Drink it now and over the next five or six years. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Eral Bravo Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Mendoza $18.55 (58081)
Maybe the price will make you think of the 1855 Bordeaux classification? Maybe not classified growth quality, this is nonetheless very good value and makes an excellent partner for grilled and roasted red meats. It delivers blackberry and blackcurrant in the aromas, and black fruit, with spice and black pepper, in the flavours. It's richly flavoured, well structured, and overall a very good buy. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Famiglia Bianchi Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
San Rafael, Mendoza $13.95 (677567)
Oh, yes! This is excellent value. If you're looking for a dense, richly-flavoured Cabernet with plenty of complexity (cloves, coffee, spices), and good structure and balance, here you go. It's for drinking now and over the next two or three years, so stock up and enjoy some now with hearty winter meals and more with your barbecues next summer. (RP)

Australia

**** cellar
Kaesler Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Barossa Valley $30.85 (4200)
This is a big, gutsy, intense Cabernet Sauvignon that needs three or four years before you can appreciate it. It has concentrated black fruit and berry flavours, plenty of complexity, and it's well structured. The tannins are a touch aggressive right now, but once they're tamed by time, this will make delicious drinking with grilled red meats. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Saltram of Barossa 'Mamre Brook' Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Barossa Valley $19.90 (48579)
This is a serious, fruit-forward Cabernet that delivers powerful crushed black berry aromas and flavours. It has very good structure, an attractive and tangy texture, and a long, dense, finish. The tannins are ripe and sweet, and still gripping quite tenaciously, so you might want to hold off a year or two. It will last a good 10 years. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Wolf Blass 'Gold Label' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Coonawarra $29.80 (606939)
The 'Gold Label' line has delivered quality and value since it began, and this continues the tradition. It's fruit-forward and plush-textured, with good structure and a nice tannic grip. Full of dark fruit with notes of mint, coffee, spice and chocolate, it makes great drinking with steak. (RP)

France

**** drink now
Domaine Lamargue Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Vin de Pays d'Oc $14.85 (60897)
This is great value, a Cabernet from southern France that delivers dense, saturated flavours of cherry and cassis with a range of notes such as spice, herbs, coffee, and chocolate. The gripping tannins are sweet and ripe, and the length is good and tangy. This makes a perfect partner for well-seasoned, red meat-based winter stews. (RP)

Italy

**** drink or cellar
Rizzuto Piconello Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
IGT Sicilia $15.85 (61838)
This well-made Cabernet offers very good value. It delivers attractive dark fruit flavours (cherry and plum) with good spicy complexity. The structure and balance are good, and the tannins are ripe and drying. It's drinking well now and will continue to for another three or four years. Overall, it's nicely paced and makes a very good partner for well-seasoned grilled red meats. (RP)

Spain

**** drink now
Rosell Mir Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
DO Penedès $18.45 (60970)
Expect a big Cabernet, with rich flavours of cassis and black cherry accented by spice and black pepper. There's good acid balance here (making this especially good for slightly lighter foods than you'd normally think of for Cabernet Sauvignon), and rich, firm tannins. Try pairing it with coq au vin. (RP)

The main release

Fortified wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Warre's Colheita Single Year Tawny Port 1986
DO Porto $57.75 (20917)
It's already been aged nearly 22 years, and you can hold it a bit longer if you want to. But why wait? Open this delicious Port next time you're serving fairly strong cheeses. It's slightly viscous and sweet, with complex flavours of dried fruit, roasted nuts and orange peel, and there's a good spine of acidity for balance. (RP)

Canada: red wine

**** drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham Reserve Merlot 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.75 (291120)
A very successful Ontario Merlot that displays solid dark fruit flavours throughout with some nice spice and herb complexity, and a note of black olives. With good weight and structure and light drying tannins, it's an excellent red to pair with grilled veal. (RP)

California: red wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ridge Geyserville 2005
Sonoma County $47.75 (723072)
Mainly Zinfandel (77%) with some Carignan (17%) and Petite Sirah (6%), this is a beautiful red that's both bold and stylish. The flavours are red/dark fruit and berries, with good complexity and notes of sweet spice and herbs. With a soft texture and sweet tannins, this is a lovely wine that will enhance the pleasure you get from a well-seasoned, grilled rack of lamb. (RP)

**** cellar
Ridge Lytton Springs 2005
Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County $39.85 (982413)
This Zinfandel (77%), Petite Sirah (17%) and Carignan (6%) blend delivers sweet, almost musky, dark fruit (black cherry, cassis) with notes of spice and herbs. The tannins are firm enough that you might want to tuck this away for three or four years, then drink it sometime during the following ten. (RP)

Australia: red wine

**** drink or cellar
Rosemount 'Traditional' Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Petit Verdot 2002
South Australia $35.20 (484097)
Fruit-forward and well-structured, this blend is characterized by dense flavours of black berries and fruit that are both complex and pure. Spice and herbal notes fill them out, and they're framed by a firm tannic structure. Medium bodied and well balanced, it's an ideal wine to serve with grilled lamb chops. (RP)

Austria: white wine

**** drink or cellar
Freie Weingärtner Wachau Grüner Veltliner 2006
Wachau $18.45 (61127)
This starts off with a lovely nose of sweet lemongrass then graduates to attractive and complex flavours where you'll find white peppery spiciness and lemon zest. It's refreshing and crisp in texture, medium bodied, and a delicious partner for grilled shrimp with garlic, ginger and a squeeze of lemon. (RP)

France: white wine

**** drink or cellar
Pierre Sparr Pinot Gris Réserve 2005
AOC Alsace $18.85 (983395)
A delicious Pinot Gris with dominant flavours of ripe peach and apricot with notes of musky spiciness. The texture is smooth and quite plush, even verging on creamy, but the good acid spine keeps the wine this side of fat. This is an excellent choice for spicy Thai dishes with pork or chicken. (RP)

France: red wine

**** drink or cellar
Château Lamothe de Haux 2005
AOC Premières Côtes de Bordeaux $16.85 (641555)
This well-priced Bordeaux delivers what are often called "pretty" flavours, flavours with substance but light on their feet. Here they're dark plum and cherry, and they're presented with good structure, complexity and with approachable tannins. In all, this is a very good buy and a fine partner for roast beef. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Vincent Girardin Bourgogne Cuvée Saint-Vincent 2005
AOC Bourgogne $21.75 (727966)
The 2005 vintage in Burgundy was a real stand-out, so look for 2005s from any appellation in the region. This example is very well priced, and it embodies the winning combination that characterizes so much of the vintage: a delicacy combined with substance where it matters. Starting with floral notes on the nose, going through focused fruit and balanced acidity and tannins on the palate, and ending with a refreshing complex finish, you have an impressive and unusually versatile wine. Pair it with red meats, pork or chicken. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine de la Colline Saint-Jean Vacqueyras 2004
AOC Vacqueyras $23.45 (38661)
This is a lovely blend of Grenache (70%) and Syrah (30%). The rich flavours are dominated by crushed red berries and dark fruit, with notes of spice and pepper. The texture is smooth, the tannins are ripe with a good but manageable grip, and the finish is long. Enjoy it with grilled red meats. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Cros de Romet Cairanne 2006
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $17.85 (42986)
There are beautiful, complex flavours in this 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah blend. Starting with black fruit, add descriptors like spice, pepper, wild herbs, and lavender. It has a tangy, slightly edgy, texture that's very attractive, and the acidity makes it ideal for roast or grilled red meats. (RP)

Germany: white wine

**** drink now
Prinz Salm Schloss Wallhausen Riesling Kabinett 2006
QmP Nahe $21.75 (993766)
We don't see many wines from the Nahe region, but you'll be looking for them after you taste this. It's a fine Riesling with pure fruit flavours (peach, tropical, orange zest) and vibrant, clean, lime acidity. Beautifully balanced, it's a natural for slightly spicy, sautéed seafood. (RP)

Italy: red wine

**** drink now
Botter 'Carlo' Doppio Passo Primitivo 2005
IGT Salento $14.45 (60780)
This is a very intensely-flavoured wine==thanks to the 'doppio passo' winemaking technique==that sets it apart from many other Primitivos. Look for flavours of spicy, ripe black fruit and berries, but don't expect jamminess. The balance is good here, as is the structure, and the tannins are light. Pair this with any full-flavoured red meat dish. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Castiglioni Cabernet Sauvignon/Sangiovese 2006
IGT Toscana $22.95 (974394)
Big and sweet, fruit-forward and nicely-structured, this is a wine to enjoy with red meat dishes that have intense flavours. The wine is dominated by spicy black fruit, the texture is tangy, and the tannins are firm and ripe. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Sa'Solin Ripasso della Valpolicella
DOC Ripasso della Valpolicella $16.75 (650713)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) If you haven't tried an Italian red recently, this will show you the way back. It has lovely sweet fruit (cherry, berries) with that's forward but complex. It's very well balanced, medium bodied, and lightly tannic, and it goes nicely with anything from pizza to burgers, from veal to lamb. (RP)

Portugal: red wine

**** drink or cellar
Quinta da Falorca Vinho Tinto 2006
DO Dão $16.55 (67512)
This wine offers a lot of style and quality for the price. The flavours are very complex, with notes of smoke, spice and pepper on a solid base of black fruit. There's a prominent seam of acidity that balances the fruit very well. With moderate tannins, this is a very good choice for hearty meat stews. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Vale do Bomfim Reserva 2005
DOC Douro $14.85 (66944)
This is a rich, bold red made from varieties commonly used in Port==and it displays some of the complex Port flavours like spice, coffee, chocolate and sweet herbs. Well balanced and with very good structure and firm tannins, it goes well with aged cheeses. (RP)

Upstream on Winecurrent

Vintages release of March 29, 2008

****1/2 drink or cellar
Katnook Merlot 2005
Coonawarra, South Australia $29.95
Katnook winemaker Wayne Stehbens does it again. This is a gorgeous Merlot that has full-on, intense fruit: black plum and berries to the fore. But this is no jammy number, and it keeps its complexity and structure, all enhanced by poised acidity and ripe tannins. Derek Butler, Katnook's Canadian representative, describes this as "Merlot grown up." He might be a little biased, of course, but I think he's dead on. (RP)

Vintages release, March 29, 2008

****1/2 drink or cellar
Peter Lehmann Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.75 (605741)
Like Peter Lehmann himself, this Cabernet makes its presence felt in the room. It's big, brash and bold. There the analogy ends, unless Lehmann is full of dark fruit and berry flavours, with notes of licorice, chocolate and coffee. It's well structured, well balanced, and has a firm tannic grip. Drink it with red meats, of course. (RP)

Vintages release, March 29, 2008

**** drink or cellar
Schild Estate Shiraz 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $22-25
There's a hint of soy sauce on the nose, but the flavours settle in to rich crushed black berries and dark cherry, with notes of pepper and mint. Look for a tangy texture, good balance and a long spicy finish. It goes well with well-seasoned, grilled red meats. (RP)

New from Ontario wineries

These new wines from Ontario wineries are available from the wineries or from winery-owned retail stores.

****1/2 drink or cellar
Flat Rock Cellars 'Nadja's Vineyard' Riesling 2006
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95
This is a really delicious Riesling, stylish and opulent and indicative of the quality that this winery is sustaining. Look for quite luscious tropical flavours, some minerality, and a spine of vibrant acidity that sets everything in motion. It makes excellent drinking on its own, and pairs well with well-seasoned, grilled seafood. Order from www.flatrockcellars.com. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Inniskillin 'Niagara Series' Pinot Noir 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $11.95
This is a simple, well-made Pinot Noir, that's quite well priced. It's made in a lighter style, but it has Pinot typicity. Look for vibrant red cherry flavours with a little spiciness and depth, light tannins, and medium weight. It goes very well with roast chicken, and it's available from Wine Rack stores. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Lailey Vineyard Chardonnay 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95
Drawn from three vineyards, this Chardonnay delivers full, focused flavours of white peach, apple and pear, paired with a broad seam of soft citrus acidity. The result is a slightly edgy texture that makes the wine an excellent partner to grilled fish or chicken in a cream-based sauce. Order from www.laileyvineyard.com. (RP)

**** drink now
Reif Estate Chenin Blanc 2006
VQA Niagara River $18.95
There are some very successful Chenins coming out of Niagara, and here's another. It's richly flavoured and textured, with attractive flavours of peach, apricot and nectarine, with some honeyed notes. It's smooth and plush and goes well with slightly spicy chicken and pork. Order from www.reifwinery.com. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Tawse Pinot Noir 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $32.00
Tawse quickly established a reputation for its Pinots, and here's another success. The fruit here has depth, solidity and some elegance. You'll find there's real sweetness at the core, with hints of caramel, surrounded by sour cherry and notes of herbs and spice. Drink it with grilled lamb or duck. Order from www.tawsewinery.ca. (RP)

New in the LCBO

Look for these wines in the LCBO General List

Australia

***1/2 drink now
Lindemans 'Bin 85' Pinot Grigio 2007
South Eastern Australia $11.45 (668947)
This is a refreshing white with decently-concentrated flavours of white peach, apricot pit and citrus, partnered with good acidity. It's refreshing and crisp, and can be drunk on its own or with fish and seafood dishes. (RP)

**** drink now
Wolf Blass ‘Yellow Label’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
South Australia $16.85 (251876)
This has become so familiar one tends to pass it by—don’t. Aromas of mint, mulberry and cedar waft from the glass while the flavours are a delicious mélange of red and black berry fruit infused with licorice and juicy black Bing cherry. Smooth as silk, medium bodied and deftly balanced, it’s not overdone—the second glass is as delicious as the first. This is perfectly matched with grilled rack of lamb. (VH)

Chile

**** drink now
Santa Carolina Reserva Merlot 2006
DO Valle De Colchagua, Chile $12.85 (324590)
Certainly one of the better buys in the General List, the price to quality ratio is skewed heavily in your favour. Rich and concentrated aromas and flavours ooze from this medium-bodied well balanced red. Dark chocolate, cherry and hints of espresso roast are clearly evident and they glide along on ultra smooth and ripe tannins right through the fruit-forward finish, illustrating why Chile is a go-to country for value wine. (VH)

Ontario

***1/2 drink now
Pillitteri 'Fusion' Gewürztraminer/Riesling 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (349126)
It's called 'Fusion' partly to get around the difficulty many people have with 'Gewürztraminer'. It's a crisp, off-dry white with flavours of musky peach and tropical fruit. It's refreshing, makes a pleasant aperitif, and also goes very well with spicy fish, seafood or chicken dishes. (RP)

Cheers!

Rod and Vic

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar