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January 5, 2008 Release

Following December's release of high priced and high quality wine, this is an embarrassment of riches if looking for good quality wines at affordable prices. In fact, you'll find many outstanding bargains in the reviews below.

You may find these wines an even better bargain (ever so slightly) when you reach the cash, as the GST was lowered a point and not all these published prices reflect that reduction.

The release begins with what has now become the norm==a myriad of headings and/or sub headings e.g. "What's new?" as the heading, with "the big 'little' grape" and "southern hemisphere", along with many others, constituting sub headings. Thankfully, it eventually evolves into the main release with country and regional headings.
Vic tasted through this Vintages release on his own as Rod was out of the country.

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

What's new?

California: red

**** drink now
Echelon Merlot 2003
Central Coast $19.95 (054817)
Our stronger Canadian dollar gains a good deal of traction in the U.S. category. Rich and robust, there are aromas and flavours of black plum and ripe black cherries in this medium-bodied gem. The flavours transfer seamlessly to the lengthy finish where they're joined by a sweet cassis flavour with hints of mint. Nicely structured and well balanced, it offers good value. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Hahn Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Central Coast $15.95 (057877)
Medium bodied and deftly balanced, this punches well above its price. Rich, yet restrained, it offers a solid core of cherry and currant flavours that are well supported by ripe supple tannins and just enough acidity for balance. Gorgeous when sipped on its own, it also has the oomph to match up to backyard burgers and grilled gourmet sausages. Pick up a half dozen and keep them for summer and fun in the sun. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Concannon Limited Release Petite Sirah 2004
Central Coast $16.95 (048629)
Full bodied and fully textured, there's a lot going on here. It's a bit on the wild side with gobs of rich cherry and currant flavours, tannins that are still quite grippy and bracing acidity that keeps those juicy fruit flavours from becoming jammy. The finish adds on a dollop of spiced black plum and some gamey notes. A three hour decant or 3 years in the cellar will tame this to the point where you can enjoy it with venison or elk tenderloin, seared to rare to medium rare. (VH)

Australia: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Teusner 'The Riebke Ebenezer Road' Shiraz 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $25.95 (048470)
This is a restrained, yet rich and round Barossa Shiraz. The nose offers red berry, black pepper and spiced black plum aromas. Look for mulberry, licorice and rich kirsch liqueur flavours that wash over the palate in wave after delightful wave. Sporting deft balance and a fruit forward lengthy finish, you're left hoping for more once the glass is drained. This will drink well now to 2015 either on its own or paired with leg of lamb. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
De Bortoli 'Windy Peak' Pinot Noir 2006
Yarra Valley, Victoria $19.95 (048587)
Racy and understated, this is a Pinot that delivers fair value from a respected producer. Aromas of muted floral and spice box form segue to this light- to medium-bodied zingy red. There's a mélange of flavours==red currant, cranberry, red cherry==that stream from the palate through the medium-length finish. This wine showcases its fruit flavours paired with a goat cheese and mesculan salad sprinkled with a light vinaigrette. (VH)

Argentina: red

****1/2 drink now
Doña Paula Los Cardos Malbec 2005
Luján de Cuvo, Mendoza $12.95 (048332)
If, like me, you search in vain for a well-priced good tasting red to serve with summer bar b ques, only to realize those wines were offered months ago and are now long gone - you need to pick up an armful of this. Delightful aromas of spice, tar and ripe black berry morph into a rich and diverse cornucopia of flavours with currant, cassis and spice to the fore. There's ripe tannin for structure, moderating acidity for balance and a racy finish. The quality to price balance favours you. (VH)

South Africa: red

****1/2 drink now
Lammershoek Zinfandel LBV Cape Vintage 2002
WO Coastal Region $18.95 (058172)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This fortified (16.5%) Port-like red would be the perfect foil to chunks of aged cheddar, parmigiano reggiano or any 'death by chocolate' dessert. It offers a glorious nose of cinnamon, fig and dark ripe berry fruit. The texture is creamy and full-bodied with robust flavours of spiced black plum and bramble berry infused with sweet cassis. It has a lengthy warm finish as well as generous acidity to give balance and take away from cloying. (VH)

France: white

**** drink now
Domaine de Mirail Colombard 2006
Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne $13.95 (061606)
Wine from the Colombard grape is most often distilled into cognac in France, blended in cheap California 'jug' wine, and also used to blend, usually with Chardonnay in Australia. This 100% Colombard wine, however, deserves your attention; it's flavourful, clean and crisp, offering excellent value. Floral and spicy on the nose, the flavours are zingy citrus (white grapefruit) infused with lovely hints of white peach and Granny Smith apple. It's medium bodied and offers a long clean finish. Pair with pan-seared freshwater fish. (VH)

Spain: red

****1/2 drink now
Taja Gran Reserva 1998
DO Jumilla $19.95 (539148)
It's not often you have the opportunity to purchase a ten year old wine of this calibre for under twenty dollars; take advantage of it. Black currant and black olive aromas give way to a delicious mouthful of rich black berry fruit (currant and raspberry) flavours. The tannins are ripe and almost imperceptible while there's just enough acidity for balance. The finish is lengthy and provides yet more dark ripe fruit flavours with lovely notes of spice box and mint. (VH)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine

***** drink now
Emilio Lustau Solera Reserva 'Rare' Amontillado 'Escuadrilla'
DO Jerez $15.95 (660324) 375 ml
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This is a racy offering in the classic bone-dry style that will appeal equally to aficionados and tentative 'first-timers'. Wine-lovers will happily stretch their horizons here. Almond and toffee notes waft from the amber brown liquid. Made from 100% Palomino white grapes that have been exposed to air, this oxidization causes the colour and the beguiling aromatics. The flavour profile is tangy and nutty. A versatile medium-bodied gem that would be well matched (serve chilled, not cold) with blue cheese or veal and chicken dishes with a piquant mayonnaise. (VH)

Ontario: white

**** drink now
Kacaba 'Escarpment Series' Chardonnay Sur Lie 2003
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (058578)
Sweet and ripe fruit aromas and flavours gush from this medium-bodied, beautifully-textured and aged Chardonnay. Flavours of sweet apple compote, peach cobbler, and poached pear are beautifully balanced with tart red grapefruit and clean refreshing lemon. Melding together, they provide a round, ready and interesting white at a very good price. It finishes clean and crisp making it a perfect match with steamed lobster dipped in clarified butter. (VH)

Ontario: red

**** drink now
Colio CEV Reserve Merlot 2002
VQA Lake Erie North Shore $19.95 (500447)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) A juicy and nicely-paced Merlot from a very good year in LENS. The fruit is solid right through, with dark plum and cherry to the fore, with hints of spice and pepper. It's dry and very manageably tannic now, just right for drinking with grilled red meat. (RP)

California: white

**** drink or cellar
Markham Wines 'Glass Mountain' Chardonnay 2005
Napa Valley $13.95 (533208)
Apple and pear aromas stream through to the palate expressing themselves as crisp green apple and ripe Bosc pear. You'll also find hints of vanilla and spice. It's lightly-textured, but the core of flavour lasts completely through the medium length finish. A lean- and clean-styled Chardonnay, this earned its final half star on price. Pair with seared scallops under a light drizzle of lemon. (VH)

**** drink now
Ironstone Chardonnay 2006
Lodi $15.95 (355776)
Lovely aromas of brioche and tropical fruit introduce this medium-bodied and well balanced beauty. Never a misstep from these folks; expect rich flavours and good bang for your buck, wine after wine. On the palate the flavours are vibrant and diverse==pineapple, citrus, peach and yellow plum to the fore. It finishes fruit forward and refreshing; pair it with lemon chicken or chicken Kiev. (VH)

Argentina: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Famiglia Bianchi Malbec 2005
San Rafael, Mendoza $13.95 (677559)
A perennial favourite, the final half star was awarded on price. Smoke and oak on the nose, the flavours are all about dark, rich, ripe and sweet fruit==currant, cherry, mulberry and plum. There are also perceptible tannins for structure and ageing potential and racy acidity to nicely moderate all that sweet fruit. You also get a medium- to full-bodied red and a fairly lengthy finish for your fourteen dollars. Another wine to stock up on for future grilled red meat meals; it's good to drink now and on into 2012. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Fincas Patagónicas 'Zolo Reserve' Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Mendoza $16.95 (054098)
You need to choose your prey carefully, but Argentina is great hunting grounds for wine-lovers on the prowl for value wines==here's one that's worth the chase. There's a lifted nose of toasty oak and sweet dark berry fruit and rich and robust fruit flavours that drench the palate==Bing cherry, bramble berry and black currant being the more prominent. You receive balancing racy acidity, drying tannins, a lengthy finish and great value here. Drink now, after a two hour decant, and over the next five years. (VH)

Chile: red

***1/2 drink now
Haras Character Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Maipo Valley $17.95 (054502)
Distinctive herbal and sharp savoury aromas form the nose of this medium-bodied Wine of the Month. It softens up on the palate with red cherry and spicy black plum flavours to the fore. There are subtle tannins and good zing from the mid palate right through to the medium-length finish. This would be best paired with spaghetti bolognaise or other dishes featuring tomato-based sauces. (VH)

Australia: white

**** drink or cellar
Ingoldby Chardonnay 2006
McLaren Vale, South Australia $14.95 (047647)
Tropical fruit (melon, pineapple) and toasty aromas drift off this fully-textured and well balanced drop. There are plenty of rich ripe fruit flavours in the mouth including peach, nectarine and sweet Mirabelle plum. These are balanced with a good dollop of citrussy zing (grapefruit and lemon) and the slightest hint of oak on the finish. All in all, it's a pretty nice wine that's enhanced by the attractive price. (VH)

**** drink now
Wolf Blass 'Gold Label' Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Mount Gambier, South Australia $19.95 (008110)
A more restrained Wolf Blass than usual, this should really appeal to those who are looking for a Sauvignon Blanc that's flavourful, but without the pungency often associated with the grape. Grassy and herbal on the nose, look for soft and round flavours on the palate of white peach, nectarine and sweet pink grapefruit. The finish is clean and crisp, marrying well with pan-seared shrimps and scallops. (VH)

Australia: red

**** drink or cellar
Camelback Shiraz 2003
Sunbury, Victoria $19.95 (665125)
Opaque and inky in the glass, the glorious aromatics of spice, mocha and vanilla leap from this rich and robust Aussie red. It fairly drips with sweet concentrated flavours of dark berry fruit and lashings of dark chocolate, especially on the mid palate. Ripe tannins provide structure and interest while the racy acidity comes to the fore on the lengthy finish. Pair this with spicy beef or grilled lamb tenderloin slathered with garlic. (VH)

**** drink now
d'Arenberg 'The Stump Jump' Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2006
McLaren Vale, South Australia $13.95 (606236)
This is not a complicated decision; it's a fourteen dollar wine drinking like you paid twenty. You'll find aromas and flavours in the dark berry, licorice and dark chocolate zones that are ably supported by ripe tannins and a bright cherry finish. Splendid drinking on its own, it'll pair well to the grilled red meats you enjoy at your house. Another one to pick up by the cartful; it's drinking well now and will continue to do so into 2010.

**** drink now
Evans & Tate Cabernet/Merlot 2004
Margaret River, Western Australia $19.95 (721548)
This is a deftly balanced and refined wine from one of Margaret River's, and Australia's, top producers. Spice and black currant on the nose, the aromas morph into a seamless stream of rich flavours==cherry compote, Belgian chocolate and notes of mint. Never over the top, it still manages to deliver great value (I paid more at the winery then coddled it halfway round the world) and a lovely wine to pair with roast pork tenderloin stuffed with dried cranberries and dried cherries. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Kilikanoon 'Killerman's Run' Shiraz/Grenache 2005
South Australia $19.95 (009225)
Big, bold, rich and concentrated, look for a mélange of aromas and flavours that include coffee, prune plum and cassis; I could go on, cherry, licorice and tar, but I won't. A surefire crowd pleaser registering high up on the Wow! meter. This is one of those easy to take Aussie reds with no sharp edges, just a pleasing experience with a fruit-forward and smoothly textured approach. The finish is quite lengthy and the oak has been deftly integrated. What's not to like? (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Leasingham 'Bin 56' Cabernet Sauvignon 2202
Clare Valley, South Australia $25.95 (39545)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) The warm days and cool nights of the Clare had a hand in fashioning this rich and concentrated red. Above all, expect understated elegance and absolutely perfect balance. The aromas and flavours are redolent of sweet kirsch liqueur, bright red cherry and savoury notes. Nothing over-the-top (14% alcohol) and everything is in synch including the fruit-forward (more cherry and spice) lengthy finish. This is a lovely drop at a price that clearly favours you, the purchaser. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
St. Hallett 'Faith' Shiraz 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (980631)
A perennial favourite that often makes its way to my cellar; this vintage certainly will. A nuanced nose of floral, berry fruit and earthy characteristics provides segue to this beautifully crafted wine. The flavours are focused==black cherry and cassis==while the tannins and acidity are faint brushstrokes in the tapestry of this warm (14.5% alcohol) and inviting red. The finish lingers, displaying perfect balance and lots of charm. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Water Wheel 'Memsie' 2006
Bendigo, Victoria $14.95 (656637)
Wine-lovers lined up for the '04 and so they will for this. Spicy and smoky on the nose this robust blend (Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec) explodes on the palate with teeth staining palate drenching flavours of rich dark ripe berry fruit along with high notes of chocolate, spice and coffee. Supple tannins and moderating zing round out the delightful package. The quality to price balance is tipped heavily in your favour - back up the van. (VH)

New Zealand: white

****1/2 drink or cellar
Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Marlborough, South Island $21.95 (677450)
This is quintessential Marlborough SB and a sneak preview of how many of the sensational '07 vintage wines will taste==savoury and pungent with heaps of fruit flavour. Zesty and full of tang, expect sharp aromas of nettles, grass and gooseberry along with flavours in the citrus, yellow plum and peach zones. All these transfer seamlessly to the luxurious finish, making it a perfect partner with pan-seared scallops or white fish. (VH)

France: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Perrin & Fils Cairanne Peyre Blanche 2005
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $17.95 (650960)
Mineral-infused black raspberry and dried crushed cherry flavours abound in this fully textured gem. Everything's in balance (ripe supple tannins, moderating tanginess) while the finish layers on subtle tones of roasted nuts and black pepper. Lovely when quaffed on its own, it sparkles paired to cassoulet. A much better than average vintage and a winery of exceptional status coalesced to make this outstanding red blend. It will drink well into 2012 and is worthy of a six bottle purchase. (VH)

Germany: white

***1/2 drink now
Dr. Loosen Dr. L Riesling 2006
QbA Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $14.95 (599274)
An entry level wine for this vaunted producer, but it's certainly worth a purchase. It opens with an engaging nose of white flowers and over-ripe pit fruit. Sweet and ripe flavours of yellow peach and red apple are juxtaposed to lemon and lime citrus flavours on the creamy palate and medium length finish. This yin and yang, sweet and tart taste sensation makes it a perfect partner to spicy Asian dishes. (VH)

Italy: red

***1/2 drink now
Illuminati Riparosso Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2005
DOC Montepulciano d'Abruzzo $12.95 (328997)
Uncomplicated, straightforward and honest, this fruity red delivers aromas and flavours of currants, raisins and black plum that intermingle with notes of aromatic bitters. There's good balance with just the right amount of acidity and the tannins are imperceptible. The medium-bodied frame and fruity finish make this a suitable wine to be paired with a lighter-styled red meat aperitif. (VH)

Cheers, Vic and Rod

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar