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November 10th, 2007 Vintages Release

Book cover: The 500 Best-value Wine in the LCBO Vic and Rod's new book, The 500 Best-Value Wines in the LCBO, is now in major bookstores across Ontario. It provides an easily-used guide to the best value wines in the General List and Vintages Essentials sections.

It's like having your own wine professional identifying wines you'll enjoy and, most importantly, that are affordable. Many bottles in the book are under $10 and most are under $15.

This is a great book for your own use, and a unique and useful gift for friends.

We have a winner! The winner for the draw of 4 Riedel "O" series wine glasses—courtesy C. A. Paradis on Bank Street in Ottawa—is Natasha Ruspic. The draw was held on the weekend at the Ottawa Wine and Food Show. Thanks to all who entered.

Rod was unable to attend this Vintages release tasting, but Vic tasted and spat through it and has reviewed many fine wines below. This release begins with a myriad of categories including - Burgundy, Big Reds, small reds, After-Dinner treats then, finally, settles into the wines in the main release.

Burgundy
**** drink or cellar
Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils Beaune du Château Rouge 2005
AOC Beaune Premier Cru $41.95 (901199)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Red licorice and earthy aromas open up this gorgeous red Burgundy. It's medium bodied with a firm structure provided by perceptible tannins and a glorious hit of full-flavoured fruit in the sweet and ripe dark berry zone. Quite powerful, it's also well balanced with a lengthy dry finish. It's good to drink now—pairing well with roast turkey, cranberry sauce and savoury stuffing (an up-scale option for Christmas dinner)—or tuck it away until 2010 for smooth and silky drinking until 2014. (VH)

Big Reds
***** cellar
d'Arenberg 'Dead Arm' Shiraz 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia $119.95 (037283) 1500 mL
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent - tasted in the 750 mL format) This is a stunner. The dark, opaque, brooding nectar gives off aromas of dusty black cherry and floral notes. The gargantuan flavours drenching the palate are a sweet and juicy mélange of black licorice, tar and kirsch. There are hints of black pepper that intermingle with the gobs of fruit, plush tannin and moderate acidity on the luxurious finish. A hedonist's treasure trove in a bottle that will drink well 2010 - 2020. (VH)

Small Reds
***1/2 drink or cellar
Wolf Blass 'Premium Selection' Shiraz 2003
South Australia $12.95 375 mL (662122)
Quite racy, this offers up aromas of oak, red berry and mint. It's full bodied with a generous dollop of acidity and a perceptible tannic structure. There's just enough fruit here to balance that off—look for red cherry and red currant flavours and generous spice. The finish is dry and seeking a tomato-based dish. Pair this with veal parmigiano between now and 2011. (VH)

****1/2 cellar
Antinori Tignanello 2004
IGT Toscana $56.95 375 mL (677336) 750 mL (986786)
Deep rich purple-black and almost opaque in the glass, this gem is full bodied, gorgeously textured and sports a lengthy and luxurious finish. Vanilla, currant and oaky aromas form the nose while the palate's treated to a cornucopia of fruit-forward flavours that include cassis and black cherry, and there are hints of black licorice. Expect the grainy tannins to provide considerable grip. The finish offers more of the same. You'd be wise drinking 2010 to 2014 in the small format and until 2016 in the large. (VH)

After-Dinner Treats

**** drink or cellar
Royal Tokaji Aszú Blue Label 5 Puttonyos 2000
Hungary $19.95 250 mL (972836)
My experience with this is that it improves with age. It's a world class dessert wine that offers a mélange of delightful flavours—peach and orange rind marmalade, caramel, candied tangerine, citrus and toffee, to name a few. It has some characteristics of ice wine, as well as grapes affected by noble rot (as these have been) and produces a nectar that must be tried to be believed. If you have a sweet tooth, this'll surely satisfy it. (VH) 

The Main Release

Sherry
****1/2 drink or cellar
Emilio Lustau 'East India Solera' Sherry
DO Jerez, Spain $13.95 375 mL (713636)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) When you see "Lustau" on a wine, it is akin to a gold seal of approval. This perennial favourite is showing toffee, raisin and caramel on the nose coupled with a most scrumptious mélange of sweet fig, raisin and nutty flavours. Dense and intense, deftly balanced, the effect is amazing. Serve this dessert wine chilled; either on its own or matched to crème caramel, crème brûlée or any manner of dark spiced fruit cake. Stock up and drink over the next two years. (VH)

Ontario: red
**** drink or cellar
Tawse Cabernet Franc 2004
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $29.20 (055079)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This is a gorgeously-textured gem with full, ripe fruit flavours—spicy black cherry, black currant, along with hints of chocolate. There are none of the green notes often found in cool climate Cab Franc. This is medium to full bodied, has a perceptible, but acceptable tannin structure and delivers a well-balanced medium-length finish. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Tawse Échos Bistro Red 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.20 (055095)
Loads of smoky oak and spice on the nose, this red blend offers sweet ripe fruit flavours with black raspberry and black currant to the fore. It's medium bodied, well structured (generous mouth feel, ripe tannins) and deftly balanced. The warm finish replays the nice fruit flavours and adds some spice and savoury notes. It's quite pleasant on its own and matches up well to braised veal shanks. (VH)

California: white
****1/2 drink or cellar
Calera Chardonnay 2005
Central Coast $22.95 (713313)
This is one fine California Chard that captures the delicious richness and flavour that can make them so great and avoids the pitfall of being either over-oaked or flabby, which can make them so awful. You'll experience tropical fruit (pineapple, melon), citrussy notes (lemon and grapefruit) spice and vanilla off the aromas and flavours of this medium-bodied gem. The lengthy finish is consistent with the above flavours. Drink this now to 2012 with lobster, chicken or your holiday bird. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Ironstone Vineyards 'Obsession' Symphony 2006
California $14.95 (355784)
The incredibly lifted aromatics of Muscat in this are a treat to experience. You can drink it or dab it behind your ears as perfume. Look for rosewater and expressive aromas of sweet flowers, oranges and sweet fresh grapes. There's enough acidity here for balance and the flavours are orange, apple and pear. This could easily be your 'go to' beverage when pairing with spicy food; it has that magic balance of sweet and tang that allows you a solid alternative to the more common choice - beer. (VH)

California: red
****1/2 drink or cellar
J. Lohr 'Seven Oaks' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Paso Robles $19.95 (656561)
A perennial favourite, this opens with a nose of predominantly gamey and earthy notes then provides a taste treat supreme. It's medium bodied and very well balanced offering a delightful mouthful of full-bore fruit flavours—sweet ripe bramble berry and black cherry, with fennel and spice box in a supporting role. The finish is lengthy and luxurious and there's enough tannin structure to keep this until 2014. This is a very good buy. (VH)

Argentina: red
**** drink now
Altos Las Hormigas Malbec 2006
Mendoza $13.95 (640490)
Smoke and mixed field berry aromas drift off the nose of this crowd-pleasing red. It's smooth and ready to drink with the flavours in the red currant, cranberry and red cherry zones, certainly not sweet. The finish is racy, dry and well balanced. It's a nice wine at this price and even better alongside pizza and/or wings. (VH)

Chile: red
**** drink or cellar
Casa Lapostolle Cuvée Alexandre Merlot 2005
Apalta Vineyard, Colchagua Valley $32.95 (459206)
A roomful of savoury and herbaceous aromas blast off the glass of this compact and medium-bodied red. Black plum and black currant flavours are nicely balanced with a firm and drying tannic structure and generous acidity. The oak has been deftly integrated, as well. The finish adds some mocha and espresso roast notes for complexity and interest. Drink now to 2012 and pair it with red meat grilled rare- to medium-rare. (VH)

Australia: red
****1/2 drink or cellar
Barossa Valley Estate 'Ebenezer' Shiraz 2003
Barossa Valley, South Australia $39.95 (971705)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) From premium fruit (low yields, old vines, tiny berries), just shy of making the final cut for the fabulous E & E Black Pepper Shiraz, this is less than half the price per bottle. Pepper and spiced black plum on the nose, this blossoms in the glass, showcasing oodles of rich dark bramble berry and cassis flavours, ripe and perceptible tannin, incredible balance, full-bodied texture and a soft finish. This is gutsy without being jammy. Drink now, with a 3 hour decant, but better 2009 to 2014. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Kilikanoon 'The Lackey' Shiraz 2005
South Australia $17.95 (005199)
This is a full-bore and fully-flavoured red with crowd-pleaser written all over it. It provides a huge mouthful of rich and concentrated fruit flavours—spiced black plum compote, sweet mulberry and oodles of ripe black cherry. The finish is warm (15% alcohol) and lingering, adding on some notes of pepper and chocolate. There's nothing shy about this, so give it a go with a bold and hearty stew. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Olsen Merlot 2004
Margaret River, Western Australia $17.95 (025270)
Delivering what one would hope for from this premium cooler climate Aussie wine region, this is well balanced and sporting a touch of class. There are focused aromas and flavours of black plum and black currant. There are enough tannins to carry this for awhile and enough tanginess to provide good balance now and on to 2012. It's a wine for those looking to enjoy the third and fourth glass as much, or more, as the first. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Pfeiffer Pinot Noir 2004
Rutherglen, Victoria $19.95 (961219)
Smoky notes and a lovely fragrance of lilacs form the lifted nose and segue to this light- to medium-bodied Pinot. There's good fruit here, mostly cranberry, strawberry and red currant, along with a firm spine of acidity. There's good balance along with some spicy notes on the dry finish. This is a great pairing served with spaghetti Bolognese. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Yalumba 'The Signature' Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2002
Barossa, South Australia $44.95 (528356)
There's loads of smoke and vanilla off the nose of this beautifully-crafted red that was gained by spending 22 months in oak. The flavours are rich, dense and extracted with bramble berry, cassis and black licorice to the fore. The finish is warm (14.5% alcohol) and layers on some interesting spice and tobacco notes. It's also well endowed with ripe tannins, moderating acidity, and a creamy texture. This is a big wine to be enjoyed now and on to 2015. It's very well priced. (VH)

New Zealand: white

**** drink or cellar
Cloudy Bay Chardonnay 2005
Marlborough, South Island $39.95 (359513)
More well known for their world famous Sauvignon Blanc, this shows they're also no slouch with Chardonnay. There's lots going on with the aromas—toast, mineral, citrus and pit fruit—and the expressive mélange of flavours—ripe yellow peach, pineapple and citrus. The texture's quite creamy and the finish is warm and sweet (14.5% alcohol), well balanced, fruit-forward and lengthy. (VH) 

South Africa: red
****1/2 drink now
Graham Beck 'The Ridge' Syrah 2002
WO Robertson $26.95 (607812)
It would be difficult to find any fault with this classy red. Look for spice and mocha off the nose then a beautiful gusher of pure fruit flavours—Bing cherry, black raspberry and black currant. The oak is now perfectly integrated with the ripe tannins providing only structure and interest. There are no hard edges here. The finish offers more of the sweet and ripe dark fruit flavours and is fairly lengthy. The quality to price balance is tipped well in your favour. (VH)

France: white
**** drink or cellar
Hugel Riesling Vendange Tardive 1996
AOC Alsace $38.95 375 mL (954685)
We don't see many Alsatian 'Vendange Tardive' (a.k.a. late harvest) wines here—they must reach a determined ripeness level in the unfermented grape and then the wine is tested and approved by an independent tasting panel before release. This one offers a seamless transition from aromas to flavours—mandarin orange, candied fruit, citrus and spice. Quite viscous and creamy on the palate, the finish is very sweet and lengthy. Serve well chilled and pair it with a sweet fruit dessert. (VH)

France: red
****1/2 drink or cellar
Château le Carillon 2005
AOC Pomerol $34.95 (051417)
A lovely wine; it's very well balanced, fruit forward and offers good value. Spice and plummy notes form the lifted nose, while the flavours consist of ripe and juicy black plum, black currant and spice box. It's medium bodied with a compact structure and balance provided by ripe tannins, moderating acidity and deftly integrated oak. While lovely sipped on its own, it pairs well with grilled lamb tenderloins. (VH)

Georgia: red
***1/2 drink now
Talavi Napareuli 2004
AOC Napareauli, Kakheti $15.95 (048116)
Georgia is often referred to as the 'birthplace of wine'; that's unproven, but they have a very long history of wine making. This wine deserves your consideration—primarily on merit, but also to expand your wine tasting experiences. It's made from one of the region's most popular grapes, Saperavi, and the label is as modern and readable as you'll find from Eastern Europe. Smoky and toasty on the nose, look for a smooth tasting red with mixed berry and spice notes on the palate and medium-length finish. It's good value and pairs well with roast beef. (VH)

Italy: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Luce Della Vite 2004
IGT Toscana $99.95 (685263)
I really liked this muscular and age worthy red, from its oaky, smoky and chocolate nose to its lengthy and luxurious finish. It's a bit pricey, but for those that have started, or are thinking of starting, a vertical; you won't want to miss this vintage. There's good red cherry and spicy black plum flavours, lots of oak and ripe, but firm tannins. The finish has ripe berry fruit and lots of tanginess. Best 2009 to 2017, but drinking now when paired with red meat grilled rare- to medium-rare. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Sa'Solin Ripasso della Valpolicella 2004
DOC Ripasso della Valpolicella $15.95 (650713)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) If you haven't tried an Italian red recently, this will show you the way back. It has lovely sweet fruit (cherry, berries) with moderate complexity that's forward but complex. It's very well balanced, medium bodied, and lightly tannic, and it goes nicely with anything from pizza to burgers, from veal to lamb. (RP)

Cheers,

Vic and Rod 

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar