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An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

This Vintages release starts with a feature on the south of France—a source of many wines that deliver very good value. The feature is followed by the usual wide range of wines organized by style and country. Following our reviews of the best of the release, look for our pointers to wines in upcoming Vintages releases ("Upstream on Winecurrent"), new wines on the LCBO General List and from Ontario wineries, as well as wines available for order directly from the agents.

South of France Feature

Northern Rhône: red wines

****1/2 drink or cellar
M. Chapoutier 'Petite Ruche' Crozes-Hermitage 2005
AOC Crozes-Hermitage $23.95 (39255)
This is very well-structured and delivers very good complexity; a nice and affordable example of the appellation. The fruit is predominantly black cherry and berries, with attractive notes of peppery spice and a little gaminess. The tannins are manageable now and will hold the wine for another couple of years. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cave de Tain Cornas 2003
AOC Cornas $35.95 (972117)
This is a really attractive Cornas, with all the dense fruit flavours and structure you would expect. The smooth, plush texture envelops rich flavours of black cherry and berries, with notes of spice, smoke and a hint of earthiness. There's good grip from the tannins, and you can either tame it with lamb chops, cooked medium-rare, or let time do its work for the next three or four years. (RP)

Southern Rhône: red wines

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Grosset Cairanne Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2004
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $17.95 (33852)
Côtes du Rhône covers a wide range of quality, but the "Villages" suffix offers you some sort of assurance of quality. No problem with this one, a quite delicious wine with luscious and intense flavours of sweet black fruit and berries enhanced by a scattering of pepper and spice. Very dry, with moderate tannins, this is a natural for well-seasoned grilled lamb and other red meats and game. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Château du Trignon Sablet Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2004
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $20.95 (33878)
Another well-made and well-priced Côtes du Rhône-Villages. This delivers concentrated flavours of dark fruit, with the accent on cherry and blackberries, long with good spiciness and a touch of smoke. It's nicely balanced, with fruit, acid and tannins aligned for drinking now and in the next two years. Again, lamb seems to be the obvious choice, but you wouldn't go wrong with a veal chop and garlic mash. (RP)

****1/2 cellar
Domaine du Galet des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2004
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $45.95 (708164)
For the price you get a lovely Châteauneuf-du-Pape that delivers rich and layered flavours of sweet black fruit with some attractive savoury notes. This is classic and classy, finely textured and it needs a little time for the components to integrate. Put it away for five years, then enjoy it with a fine cut of red meat and sweet root vegetables. (RP)

Midi & Provence: red wines

**** drink or cellar
Château Lamargue Cuvée Aegidiane 2003
AOC Costières de Nîmes $20.95 (33993)
A big, bold, Syrah-dominant (80%) blend, this delivers intense flavours of sweet black fruit—just what you'd expect from the torrid conditions of 2003—that stay this side of jamminess. With manageable tannins, it's ready for drinking now (although you can certainly hold it another two or three years). The texture is quite plush and mouth-filling, although you should try to find room for some grilled lamb. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine de Roquemale 'Les Terrasses' 2005
AOC Coteaux de Languedoc $16.95 (42978)
Think of a blend of Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah and you know you're in for something full of flavour. No disappointments in this bottle, which contains a nicely-paced, medium-weight red that's complex, layered and really quite interesting. The dominant flavours are black cherry and kirsch, but there are spices, pepper, savoury notes and a hint of meat here. Drink it with full-flavoured red meats. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Clos Bagatelle 'Veillée d'Automne' 2003
AOC Saint-Chinian $20.95 (41863)
This is a delicious wine that's worth every cent. Mainly Syrah, with contributions from Mourvèdre and Carignan, it delivers deep, dense flavours of spice, dark fruit and berries with a broad sweet core. The tannins are quite firm, giving you the opportunity of putting a few of these away to knit for two-three years. You might want to road test one right away, of course, in which case you should grill a piece of well-season red meat. (RP)

Sherry

**** drink now
Lustau 'Papirusa' Manzanilla Solera Reserva
DO Jerez y Manzanilla-Sanlúcar de Barrameda $17.95 (043307)
Most Manzanilla is made to be drunk very soon after bottling, so you have a bit of a rarity here. You also have a lovely refreshing aperitif that will be a hit when welcoming guests or served at the table at the start of a meal. This is light and refreshing, sporting nutty, salty notes with a beautiful tanginess on the palate and finish. Serve well chilled and pour half glasses to keep it that way. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Lustau Península Palo Cortado
DO Jerez $14.95 / 375 mL (677856)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Another exotic offering from Emilio Lustau, the vaunted producer of quality Sherry. Nutty and spicy on the nose and palate, you will find this medium-bodied, copper-coloured glorious nectar simply stunning. This is tangy, yet offers a generous texture and diversity of structure and character that was gained from its age and multi-vintage roots. It finishes clean with hints of coffee and chocolate. Serve slightly chilled as a welcoming wine or dinner aperitif for very special guests; also the perfect match to consommé. (VH)

Dessert Wine

**** drink or cellar
Graham Beck 'Rhona' Muscadel 2003
$21.95 500 mL (607739)
Dazzling aromas of dark honey, toffee and almond follow through to a fully-flavoured—orange peel marmalade, honeycomb and intriguing highlights of sweet grapes—and full-bodied dessert wine. The viscosity is perfect and moderated by good acidity, keeping it far from cloying. The finish is layered, lengthy and quite luxurious. You could serve this as the dessert or alongside spiced fruit cake, well chilled either way. (VH)

Sparkling Wine

*** drink now
Neirano Brachetto d'Acqui
DOCG Piedmont, Italy $16.95 (047225)
DOCG is the highest quality rating in Italian wine. Sweet and candy-like, this sparkler needs to be quite well chilled and served with a fruit dessert like a red plum crisp. It's very low alcohol (6.5%) and just the thing for the end of a meal that's already been accompanied by wine(s). (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Freixenet 'Brut Nature' Vintage Cava 2004
DO Cava, Spain $15.95 (182014)
Look for a subtle and subdued nose of yeasty notes and hints of floral. The attack is quite robust with loads of citrus and mineral flavours that carry through from the palate to the medium-length finish. This is clean, refreshing and good value for well made Vintage sparkling wine (made only in selected years). It pairs well with breaded, salted calamari or dishes made with bacalau a.k.a. salt cod. (VH)

Canada: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Flat Rock Cellars 'Gravity' Pinot Noir 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (001560)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) A lilac and earthy nose introduce this
beautifully balanced red. Round and smooth flavours of spiced plums and black cherry fruit abound on the mid palate and it has been carefully complemented with deftly handled oak and well integrated acidity. Enough ripe and smooth tannin to help it cellar until 2010, but why wait? Boeuf bourguignon would be proud to be served alongside. (VH)

Canada: rosé

***1/2 drink now
Creekside Cabernet Rosé
VQA Niagara Peninsula $12.95 (48819)
A well-flavoured, medium-bodied, dry rosé that delivers just a hint of sweetness in the finish. The core flavours are red berries and plum, and they're nicely complemented by a crisp texture. Drink it with turkey, and maybe buy a few bottles for Thanksgiving. (RP)

U.S.A.: white

California

*** drink now
Fiddlehead Cellars 'Happy Canyon' Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Santa Ynez Valley $31.95 (046359)
Mineral and vanilla aromas waft off the glass. There's a bracing spine of acidity running through the flavours, providing backbone for this light- to medium-bodied refreshing white. Expect flavours of white grapefruit and lemon on the palate and a clean, tart finish. Pair with pan-seared freshwater fish, like trout, under a generous squeeze of freshly-squeezed lemon to help highlight the fruit flavours in the wine. (VH)

U.S.A.: red

California

***** cellar
Caymus Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Napa Valley $83.95 (222877)
The alluring nose offers spice box and sweet ripe berry fruit aromas. It pours forth layered and expressive flavours of dried, crushed currants, cassis, eucalyptus, incense and ripe juicy field berries. There's good structure from perceptible tannins and lovely balance from generous helpings of sweet fruit and moderating acidity. The lengthy finish adds on a veneer of dark chocolate. Enjoy now with steak, grilled rare to medium rare or squirrel away in your cellar until 2010 for gorgeous drinking until 2015. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Clos du Val Merlot 2004
Napa Valley $29.95 (720953)
Black plum and toasty aromas to the fore, this medium-bodied red showcases quality Merlot from Napa. You'll find oodles of cranberry and red currant flavours that are ably supported by a glorious ladleful of black plum fruit on the lengthy and clean finish. There's good structure from perceptible, but acceptable, ripe tannins. No fruit bomb, this pairs extremely well with food that offers acidity—tomatoes, for instance—like veal scallopini or spaghetti bolognese. (VH)

**** drink now
Frog's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Napa Valley $53.95 (932400)
There's a lifted and extremely complex nose and palate here; expect a mélange of aromas and flavours including, chocolate and mint, and copious amounts of black, juicy and sweet brambleberry fruit. This drink-me-now red offers a gorgeous texture that's smooth as silk, bordering on creamy. There's good balance and a medium-length finish. Lovely on its own, it also pairs well with grilled back ribs. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Greg Norman 'California Estates' Zinfandel 2003
Lake County $23.95 (038042)
The Shark comes out swinging with this grip it and rip it Zin. It tops the leader board with rich and concentrated aromas of spice and raspberry then chips in with dense and concentrated flavours of sweet jammy brambleberry fruit. It's a fairway from subtle, and this will suit Zin-lovers to a tee, especially those who revel in a blockbuster style. They'll fill up their carts—it's good value—then putt it alongside a rich stew like lamb or beef daube. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Joseph Phelps 'Innisfree' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Napa Valley $28.95 (038125)
The 2005 California vintage has been characterized by long ageing Cabs with generous amounts of fruit flavours—this gem fits that general description. You'll discover aromas and sweet fruit flavours galore here, but it's far from jammy. In fact, it's deftly balanced by moderating acidity, rich in black berry fruit (black currant to the fore), spice box and mocha flavours, and offers good structure from ripe tannins. In summary, it's powerful with touches of elegance. Drink now to 2015. (VH)

**** drink now
Ravenswood 'Vintners Blend' Merlot 2004
California $19.95 (505065)
Never a misstep with Ravenswood—they produce delicious, well-made wine that delivers very good value and here's a lovely example. There's loads of aromas and flavours—sweet brambleberry, cassis and black raspberry. However, it's well supported and balanced by moderating acidity and enough tannin for structure. This is akin to California Zin, for which they are famous, but off steroids. Drinking beautifully now; it's a lovely partner to rich stews. (VH)

Argentina: red

****1/2 drink now
Jean Bousquet Malbec 2005
Tupungato Valley, Mendoza $12.95 (036988)
The lifted nose sports aromas of cherry, currant and spice box. The layered and luxurious flavours (carried along by very good texture) are in the black cherry and sweet black raspberry zones with good acidity for balance. The finish is idiosyncratic, but for me, added complexity and interest—there's good fruit flavours, but also hints of smoky and gamey nuances. It earned its final half star on the price to quality balance that's swung well in your favour. Don't buy a bottle of this wine—buy multiple bottles. (VH)

Chile: white

**** drink now
Cousiño-Macul 'Antiguas Reservas' Chardonnay 2006
Maipo Valley $14.95 (730044)
This is a lovely wine at an attractive price. Toast, vanilla and green apple aromas drift off the nose while the expressive flavours—spice, peach and nectarine—are balanced off nicely with citrussy undertones. It's medium bodied with a plush mouth feel that's very appealing, and has a refreshing clean finish. Pair this with lightly herbed chicken or veal. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
William Fèvre Chardonnay 'Gran Cuvee' 2006
Maipo Valley $18.95 (045146)
This opens with a very subtle nose of brioche and tropical fruit aromas then delivers white grapefruit and other citrussy flavours on a light- to medium-bodied frame. You can sense the influence that was carried from Chablis and you might try similar food pairings like oysters or shellfish under drizzled lemon juice. (VH)

Chile: red

***1/2 drink now
Toro de Piedra Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Curicó Valley $14.95 (039362)
This a crowd-pleasing wine that's ready to drink with sweet fruit flavours and no rough edges. You can afford to offer it to a crowd given the fairly attractive price. You'll find sweet, a bit jammy, fruit aromas and flavours—black cherry and raspberry—throughout this medium-bodied Cab. You'll also enjoy the long warm finish. Enjoy with burgers, grilled gourmet sausages or pizza. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Valdivieso Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Chile $17.95 (032110)
Looking for a red with firm structure, expressive fruit flavours and good balance? You've found it. You'll also experience aromas, as well as flavours, of ripe, sweet black berry fruit, a nice spine of acidity for balance, and ripe tannins. The warm and lengthy finish is a replay of these flavours. As the Vintages catalogue suggests, this was made to be paired with grilled steak. Drink now to 2011. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Viña Maipo Carménère Reserva 2006
Rapel Valley $13.95 (663047)
One of the better Carménères tasted recently, this earned its final half star on the excellent value it provides. There are alluring aromas present—chocolate, and black licorice—and the flavours are equally as appealing—rich black cherry and cassis to the fore. It's very plush on the palate, while the finish is gorgeous with its replay of full fruit flavours plus dry, earthy nuances. This is drinking well now and pairs nicely with all manner of grilled meats, pasta in a tomato and meat sauce or meat-laden pizza. (VH)

Australia: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Elderton 'Friends Vineyard Series' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Barossa, South Australia $19.95 (595389)
This winery is always at the top of their game. You'll discover a mélange of aromas of flavours including licorice, eucalyptus, tar, black cherry, currant and kirsch. It's medium bodied, well balanced and delivers a lengthy finish. What's not to like? A few of these, this vintage will be no exception, seem make their way to my cellar every year. Gorgeous when drunk on its own, it pairs well with rack of lamb. Good to go now to 2012. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Kilikanoon 'Killerman's Run' Shiraz 2005
South Australia $19.95 (925453)
This offers lifted aromas of vanilla, mint and dark berry fruit than really takes off with soaring flavours that are richly concentrated and very fruit-forward. You'll notice brambleberry, currant and sweet cherry, as well as spice box, mocha and toasty notes. It's medium to full bodied with good texture and decent balance. This flirted with a 5 star rating, how about 4 and ½ plus? It's good value, as well. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Langmeil 'Three Gardens' Shiraz/Grenache/Mourvèdre 2005
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (644047)
Langmeil has a cult-like following and for good reasons. This Rhône blend exhibits some typical characteristics—aromas and flavours of spice and cherry, with good balancing acidity. It also shows some that are atypical—cherry cordial, incense and new leather. Typical or not, it's a lovely drop. Medium bodied, it provides a medium-length finish and an interesting drinking experience now to 2011. Drink on its own to well and truly appreciate its many qualities. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Leconfield Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Coonawarra, South Australia $29.95 (441501)
Owned by Richard Hamilton Wines, Paul Gordon is wine maker for both and one of the most talented in the Coonawarra. Minty and rich dark berry aromas abound here while the flavours are a richly concentrated cornucopia of sweet, spicy cherry and spice-infused black currant. Well structured (ripe, but perceptible tannins) and well balanced (moderating acidity), this offers a medium-length finish and seven or eight more years of optimum drinking. If you can't wait at least two or three; serve alongside beef, grilled rare to medium rare. (VH)

New Zealand: red

**** drink or cellar
Kim Crawford Pinot Noir 2006
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (626390)
Marlborough produces superb Pinot Noir to book end their world class Sauvignon Blanc. Look for loads of nuanced and classy touches here, like aromas and flavours of smoke, cherry, espresso roast and dried, crushed cranberry. There is a lovely addition of sweet berry fruit on the finish of this well-balanced value Pinot. This is a perfect match with smoked duck breast served with a tart cranberry reduction sauce. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Sileni 'The Triangle' Merlot 2004
Hawkes Bay, North Island $18.95 (586081)
Hawkes Bay is another Kiwi area producing fine reds, especially Merlot. This was produced from warm, free-draining, gravelly soils adjacent to the winery. You're greeted with an expressive and impressive nose of dried fruit and earthy tones. The flavours are layered, with coffee, chocolate, black, juicy plum and spice to the fore. It's well-integrated with ripe tannins for structure and moderating zing for balance. Drink now to 2011 with roast turkey and all the fixings (Thanksgiving dinner?) or roast pork tenderloin stuffed with dried fruit. (VH)

South Africa: red

**** drink or cellar
Stellenrust 'Simplicity' 2005
WO Stellenbosch $19.95 (037465)
Copious amounts of those distinctive S.A. aromas and flavours—you either love them, or not—smoke, oak, tar and nuances of campfire char. Cherry, cassis and spicy notes also abound in this medium-bodied, zingy red. The finish is fruit-forward and quite lengthy. There's lots of life here to enable enjoyment now to 2012, and it's a lovely pairing with spicy beef meatloaf or a curried beef dish. (VH)

Italy: red

****1/2 cellar
Prunotto Barolo 2003
DOCG Piedmont $48.95 (928721)
From the searing '03 vintage you'd expect gobs of fruit flavours—and you get them—but the pleasant surprise is the elegant structure and balance that defines this wine. Aromas of spice, dried berry fruit and lilac form the nose while the flavours include German prune plum, dark chocolate, earthy notes and currants. It's full bodied and still in the grip of some serious tannins. The good news is those tannins will play a major role (along with fruit and acidity) in making this a thing of beauty to be drunk 2011 to 2018. (VH)

**** drink now
Banfi 'Centine' 2005
IGT Toscana $16.95 (947440)
This earned its final half star on value. It's round, ready and very easy to drink with its good balance and expressive flavours of sweet black plum, spice box and earthy tones. Medium-bodied, it also provides a long warm sweet fruit finish. You might chill for ten minutes before serving, if you don't have it stored in your wine cellar. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tedeschi 'Capitel Dei Nicalo' Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2004
DOC Veneto $16.95 (984997)
Tedeschi is a premium producer of Amarone. What a bargain this is—you get an Amorone-like wine for one third the price. It's rich, rustic and robust. Look for aromas and flavours that are expressive, even a touch feral—spicy cherry, incense-infused plum, aromatic bitters, portobello mushroom—and absolutely scrumptious. The dry, lengthy finish puts icing on the cake with more ripe berry fruit flavours. Stock up. (VH)

Upstream in Winecurrent

Vintages Release: October 13, 2007


**** drink or cellar
Viljoensdrift Wines 'Serenity' 2004
WO Robertson, South Africa $26.60 (37523)
This Bordeaux blend reflects the hot dry region of Robertson and the deft wine making principles that kept this far from jammy, yet fully flavoured. It has the rich flavours of South Australia—black plum, cassis and cherry—plus the gorgeous nuances of well-made Bordeaux—spice, chocolate and black cherry, with an added dash of smoky and gamey notes. It's well structured with beautifully integrated oak (24 months in French oak) and provides a very dry, racy and clean finish. (VH)

Vintages release: November 10, 2007

**** drink or cellar
Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils Beaune du Château Rouge 2005
AOC Beaune Premier Cru $41.95 (901199)
Red licorice and earthy aromas open up this gorgeous red Burgundy. It's medium bodied with a firm structure provided by perceptible tannins and a glorious hit of full-flavoured fruit in the sweet and ripe dark berry zone. Quite powerful, it's also well balanced with a lengthy dry finish. It's good to drink now—pairing well with roast turkey, cranberry sauce and savoury stuffing (an up-scale option for Christmas dinner)—or tuck it away until 2010 for smooth and silky drinking until 2014. (VH)

Vintages "Classics Collection" January 2008

****1/2 drink or cellar
Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault 'Genevrières' 2004
AOC Meursault Premier Cru $82.00 (46532)
Luc Bouchard, ninth-generation member of the Bouchard family, says, "For me, this is a very interesting Premier Cru—it has wonderful balance and complexity." No argument with that. Under a lovely veneer of toasty oak, which it wears lightly, this Meursault delivers a mélange of pure fruit—peach, apple and pear—with lifting minerality. It's both powerful and classy and makes a delicious complement to richly-flavoured, grain-fed chicken. (RP)

New in the LCBO

**** drink now
Antinori 'Casasole' Orvieto Classico 2005
DOC Orvieto Classico, Italy $11.15 (52308)
This is an off-dry—'Amabile' on the label indicates this—beauty with gorgeous aromas of tropical fruit and honeycomb. It's very well balanced and has a profusion of sweet ripe fruit flavours with peach and nectarine to the fore. The finish sports that fabulous yin and yang, sweet and tangy experience that pairs so well with spicy Asian dishes, lobster or creamy pasta. Antinori is one of the wine world's most respected producers. (VH)

**** drink now
Bouchard Père & Fils 'La Vignée Pinot Noir 2005
AOC Bourgogne $17.75 (605667)
This exhibits deft balance and lovely fruit flavours that far exceed its lowly 'Bourgogne' provenance, tasting more like a 1st Cru. The aromas are sweet lilac and crushed dried berries while the generous flavours are red cherry, cranberry and spice. It's light to medium bodied and offers amazing balance with the moderating acidity, ripe tannin and fruit flavours forming a wonderful and pretty amazing partnership. If price has previously prohibited you from trying good red Burgundy, this removes that barrier. (VH)

New in Ontario Wineries

****1/2 drink now
County Cider Company Ice Cider 2006
Prince Edward County, Ontario 375 mL $44.95
Like ice wine made from frozen grapes, this is made from frozen apples picked from the tree—only those varieties that do not fall when ripe are chosen—and pressed quickly. Cider-lovers will adore it; late harvest- and ice wine-lovers, will more than adore it. Gorgeous aromas of caramelized apple and peach pie waft from the glass while the sweet (but not cloying) flavours include crème caramel and baked apple. It's glorious on its own and stunning when paired with apple torte. Purchase at County Cider, County Road 8, RR 4 Picton, ON - contact This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (VH)

**** drink now
County Cider Company Sparkling Cider 2000
Prince Edward County, Ontario $19.95
If you're a cider aficionado you'll want to get your hands on this, if you're a novice, it's a great wine on which to broaden your horizons. The nose reflects the care taken in the selection and handling of the fruit—delicate aromas of ripe, fresh apple fruit without a hint of over-ripeness. This is very light and refreshing on the palate with a generous attack of mousse (made méthode champenoise) that carries along the acidity and fruit flavours with flair. The low amount of alcohol (8%) allows you to serve this as an aperitif, it'll get the juices flowing in readiness for the cuisine, while the flavours and mouth feel allow it to be paired with roast pork tenderloin with a side of apple sauce. Purchase at the winery—County Cider Company, County Road 8, RR 4 Picton, ON - contact This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (VH)

New in restaurants

The following Best's wines were tasted with winemaker, Adam Wadewitz. They have two regions from which their fruit is sourced—all vines owned by the winery with no contract growers—both are cool-er climate regions in Australian terms, although one's a tad warmer, supplying riper fruit and allowing for a lovely finished wine. They remain family-owned, a rarity these days, reaching back five generations.

****1/2 drink now
Best's Chardonnay 2005
Victoria, Australia $16.95
Tropical fruit and citrus form the aromas in the generous nose while the flavour profile is rich and robust—yellow peach, ripe apple and citrus yet quite refined and clean with a laser-like finish of beautifully balancing spicy tanginess. The mouth feel is quite plush—achieved through a delicate balance of partial malolactic (one-third) and partial barrel fermentation, also one-third. The result is a gorgeous mouthful of full-flavoured wine with deft balance and imperceptible well-integrated oak. This offers great value and can be purchased by the case of 12 via www.pacificwineandspirits.com. (VH)

**** drink now
Best's Cabernet / Merlot 2004
Victoria, Australia $18.95
This blend—70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot—delivers a well-structured and gorgeously balanced drop. Spice, eucalyptus and earthy notes form the nose and segue to this medium-bodied blend. Very good intensity of flavours—dark ripe plum, spiced red cherries, and a hint of mint—carry effortlessly to the medium-length finish. Mostly from 40+ year old vines, the flavourful result will pair well with richly-flavoured beef and lamb dishes. Purchase by the case of 12 via www.pacificwineandspirits.com. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Best's Shiraz 2004
Victoria, Australia $19.95
This is quite elegant and flirted with 5 stars; it's an example of the finesse that gives cooler climate Shiraz its good name. Spice, black plum and currant on the nose, the flavours are dense and racy—sweet (14% alcohol) black cherry, cassis and spice—while the mouth feel is a divine medium to full body delivering a very creamy texture. It also offers great balance with its moderating acidity. One wonders how they do it at this low price, so I asked. "This wine was stored in French and American barriques until blending and is from vines that are 77 years old, but were sourced from cuttings from vines that would now be 147 years old, from a picture perfect vintage." answered winemaker, Adam Wadewitz. Purchase by the case, or better still cases, of 12 via www.pacificwineandspirits.com. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Fattoria di San Quintino Chianti 2006
DOCG Chianti, Italy $16.95
This gorgeous ruby liquid offers a lifted nose of spicy, earthy red berry fruit aromas. It gets into high gear with well-knit flavours of spice, black cherry and dried currants. Medium bodied, it has deft balance, moderating tanginess and a lengthy luxurious finish of cherry, currant and cranberry. A classical blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo grapes that's perfectly paired with meat sauce and pasta dishes or traditional pizza. Order by the case from Carlo at www.mamasboywines.com. (VH)

**** drink now
Friulvini 'Le Uve' Pinot Grigio 2005
IGT Delle Venezie, Italy $10.50
Look for mineral and floral notes on the nose then a medium-bodied white that is quite tasty, with tangy flavours of white grapefruit and white peach. The finish layers on a superb hit of fruit flavours—tart yellow plum, then finishing with tropical fruit. There's no oak treatment, leaving you with a clean and refreshing white that can sipped as an aperitif or paired with fish, shellfish or chicken. Purchase by the case (home delivery) from Hobbs and Co. This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. in Ottawa and This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. elsewhere in Ontario. (VH)

**** drink now
Domaine Lichtlé Reserve Gewürztraminer
AOC Alsace, France $22.55
Alluring aromas of rosewater and mixed spices are very evident from this medium-bodied gem. The sweet ripe fruit flavours include white peach and nectarine, along with spiced poached pear. There's also a dollop of citrus and the effect is quite lovely—that sweet and tanginess - yin and yang that matches so well to spicy Asian dishes. Purchase by the case (home delivery) from Hobbs and Co. This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. in Ottawa and This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. elsewhere in Ontario. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
McManis Family Vineyards Syrah 2005
California $19.95 (658104)
There's a fabulous array of aromas and flavours in this beauty—expect spice, dark chocolate, cassis, dried, crushed berry fruit and a generous dollop of perfectly balanced tanginess throughout and on the lengthy, warm (14.5% alcohol) luxurious finish. It also offers an interesting and delightful component of aromatic bitters on the palate. You can drink yours where I did, the fabulous Ei8hteen restaurant in Ottawa or, for delivery to your home by the case in Eastern Ontario, E-mail Lauren This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. and elsewhere in Ontario This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (VH)

**** drink now
Poggio Nordoni 'Rivus' 2005
IGT Toscano, Italy $16.95
Oodles of aromas here—smoke, spice, dried and crushed red berries—and they follow through to the flavours. Almost perfectly balanced, look for a medium body, a warm (14% alcohol) and plush mouth feel, good structure and a lengthy finish. That finish adds a dollop of sour cherry and black currant making it zingy and delicious. This is truly a Tuscan treasure. Order by the case from Carlo at www.mamasboywines.com. (VH)

**** drink now
Tinpot Hut Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Marlborough, New Zealand $21.15
This delivers a stunning array of delicious flavours and a spine of moderating acidity that keeps it fresh and you coming back for more. Look for a cornucopia of aromas and flavours including green nettles, passion fruit, goose berry, citrus and white peach. Expect a fairly lengthy finish and a wine that pairs perfectly with pan-seared freshwater fish under a drizzle of freshly-squeezed lemon. For speedy home delivery, order by the case from Hobbs and Co. This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. in Ottawa and This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. elsewhere. (VH)

***** drink now
Tenuta Argentiera Donoratico 2004
DOC Bolgheri, Italy $30.00
Bolgheri' is the region of the 'Super Tuscans' Sassicaia and Ornellaia. The blend here is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, all vinified separately in French barriques. Alluring aromas of chocolate and cherry translate to a beautifully-layered and medium- to full-bodied red. Look for ripe tannins for structure, zesty acidity for balance and a flavour profile and a finish that's fruit-forward—cassis, black licorice and currants—and lengthy. This is simply stunning. Order by the case with free home delivery from the user-friendly site www.liffordwineagency.com. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Volker Eisele Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Napa Valley, California $55.00 (53926)
Inky purple and virtually opaque in the glass, expect a glorious nose of dense, dark cherry fruit and mint. The intense flavours are spicy, layered and fruit-forward—Bing cherry, black plum, with pepper and licorice on the lengthy finish. There are bits of Merlot and Cabernet Franc in this, as well. It's warm(14.8% alcohol), shows deft balance and is lip-smacking good. They've been farming organically for over thirty years. Recently offered in the LCBO's Classics Collection, you can source yours by the case, if you live in Eastern Ontario - Lauren Hayes This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. , elsewhere in Ontario - Rita Zlici This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (VH)

Cheers, Rod and Vic

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar