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September 15, 2007 Vintages Release

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter. 

This release begins with a feature on Ontario wines including Niagara Rieslings. That's followed by the usual wine-style and country listings.

Ontario feature
****1/2 drink now
Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay 2004
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (681247)
No doubt about it. Chardonnay is one of the grape varieties to keep in Niagara's portfolio. This is one luscious example from Flat Rock, which seems to be doing everything right. Look for generous fruit (peach-ripe apple/pear) with vibrant complementary acidity. The oak notes are in excellent harmony and this makes great drinking with lobster or turkey. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Maleta 'Grape Brain' Cabernet/Merlot 2004
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $15.95 (049908)
This opens with an impressive nose of chocolate and dark berry fruit. The flavours are quite expressive, as well; expect sweet brambleberry, black currant and a hint of cassis. There's just enough acidity to provide very good balance and the warm, lengthy and layered finish adds pleasant savoury notes. This pairs well with burgers and, as the Vintages catalogue suggests, gourmet sausages. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Château des Charmes Estate Pinot Noir 2005
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $18.95 (256834)
Among the reds, Pinot Noir is proving consistently successful in Niagara, as this one from Château des Charmes suggests. In a restrained Old World style, it delivers solid fruit flavours (black and red cherry to the fore) with notes of earthiness and spice. Medium bodied and with a good acid backbone, it goes well with roast chicken or grilled duck breast. (RP)

**** drink now
Peninsula Ridge Viognier 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (662601)
This is an excellent price for a very attractive Viognier. Expect to find the classic characteristics: flavours in the slightly-under-ripe peach and apricot zones, with some muskiness and spice. There's a slight bitter click at the end that adds an exclamation mark to the clean finish. Mouth-filling and smooth, this is one you can drink alone or pair with simple seafood dishes. (RP)

**** drink now
Ridgepoint Wines Pinot Noir Rosé 2006
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $14.95 (50021)
Fall might seem like an odd time to release a rosé, but rosés are year-round wines, even if we're more likely to choose them during the summer. This one from Ridgepoint adds up nicely, as the winery's accountant owner will appreciate. You'll find some clear varietal notes in the red cherry and berry flavours. The acidity comes through clear and strong, too, making this an excellent partner for herbed, grilled chicken breasts and many spicy chicken dishes. (RP)

**** drink now
Malivoire Gamay 2005
VQA Niagara Escarpment $15.95 (591313)
Oozing cherry and red currant aromas, this is a medium-bodied gem from a premium VQA winery. It's a great choice for serving slightly chilled on those warm, late summer (often humid) days. There is a great spine of acidity to complement the fruit flavours of cranberry, red currant and cherry. Pair this with a deli plate of sliced meats, condiments and a baguette, or with cold pasta salad with plenty of dried tomatoes in the dressing. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Kittling Ridge 'Symmetry' Old Vine Foch 2005
VQA Niagara Escarpment $13.95 (049932)
Lots of 'hybrid' (Marechal Foch is a hybrid grape) characteristics here. Look for smoky, tarry (some say 'burnt') aromas along with sweet, jammy flavours—black berry and black currant to the fore. It has loads of acidity to balance off the sweet fruit flavours, providing a very smooth and smoothly-textured red. There are no rough edges here. This wine would be very happy being served alongside burgers. (VH)

**** drink now
Mike Weir Estate Pinot Gris 2006
VQA Ontario $14.95 (43364)
We have a fairway to go be-fore! we reach saturation point for strained puns in golfer wines. This is a nicely-pitched Pinot Gris with rich, complex structure and good, solid fruit. Look for floral notes on the aromas and attractive peach and apricot predominating in the flavours. It finishes with a long, accurate putt that's balanced and clean. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Willow Heights 'Tresette' Meritage Reserve 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (049973)
This is an interesting wine and you'll have to make a choice; serve it with something that will tame the tannins—a steak, grilled rare or medium rare, or a dish with or in a cheese sauce. Or, you could tuck it away for a couple of years to allow it to knit and become a tad more approachable. Toast and cherries form the aromas while the flavours are red cherry, black pepper and spice notes—and, it's a bit gamey. The tannins are grainy and the overall effect is an enjoyable rustic wine. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Angels Gate Cabernet Sauvignon
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (049924)
A subtle nose greets the taster with ripe berry, mocha and toasty notes to the fore. Black currant and red cherry flavours abound on this medium- to full-bodied Meritage. It's well balanced, well priced and a lovely wine with great potential. If you're looking for a short term cellaring wine, look no further. Of course, some will enjoy it upon purchase, served with grilled steak or rack of lamb, neither too well done. Drink now to 2011. (VH)

Niagara Rieslings
**** drink or cellar
Thirty Bench Riesling 2006
VQA Beamsville Bench $17.95 (24133)
This is a Riesling that delivers a whack of bracing acidity accompanied by flavours of white peach, white grapefruit, lemon, lime and some hints of tropical fruit. You'll want some acidity in the food you pair this with, so as to counter the slight tartness in the wine, so pair it with seafood with a liberal squeeze of lemon. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Flat Rock Cellars 'Nadja's Vineyard' Riesling 2006
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 (578625)
Another Riesling where the acidity really stands out. Some Ontario Rieslings are pushing the limit of acidity in relation to fruit, but this one walks that line quite successfully. Here you'll find hints of peach in the flavours, along with grapefruit and other citrus fruit. With some mineral notes, this should go well with grilled fresh-water fish (like trout) with fresh lemon juice. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Henry of Pelham Off-Dry Reserve Riesling 2006
VQA Short Hills Bench $14.95 (557165)
This is a quite delicious Riesling that harnesses a complex flavour profile and zesty acidity in a winning combination. The flavours are mostly in the rich, slightly sweet citrus zones (red grapefruit, lemon zest, orange zest) while the acidity is clean and well pitched. This is an excellent price, making it an affordable wine you can enjoy (often) with Thai cuisine or with any spicy chicken or pork dish. (RP)

Main Release

Sherry

****1/2 drink now
Gonzalez Byass Oloroso Dulce Solera 1847
DO Jerez, Spain $15.95 (972109)
You'll notice the dark amber colour of the liquid streaming into your glass, alerting you to the fact it has considerable age. Aromas of orange peel marmalade, rancio (that distinctive aroma that informs you it's Sherry), toffee and nutty notes form the lifted nose. The texture is rich and plush with flavours of caramel, almonds, sweet, rich marmalade and subdued citrussy undertones that provide a wonderful balance to this sweet wine. The finish is quite lengthy. Serve well chilled. (VH)

Champagne
**** drink now
Drappier Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru 1990
AOC Champagne $59.95 (040584)
This is a rare opportunity to taste 17 year old Champagne from the absolutely fabulous 1990 vintage. It's fully mature, showing a deep rich gold colour in the glass as well as aromas and flavours that will not improve with more age. The nose is an alluring mélange of brioche and leesy notes with the flavours a rich vanilla, honey and nutty affair. It's still fairly well balanced (may have been a touch fresher a year ago) but well worth a purchase on its own merit and doubly so at this exceptional-value price. (VH)

California: white
****1/2 drink now
Macrostie Chardonnay 2005
Carneros $27.95 (663054)
Wow, what an incredibly aromatic and alluring nose! Tropical fruit and vanilla aromas, with a hint of floral, fairly bound from the glass. The flavours are layered and luscious—ripe yellow peach, pear, spice and citrus. The texture is plush and the balance is near perfect with its excellent spine of acidity that keeps the experience clean and refreshing. Superb on its own, it also pairs well with roast chicken. (VH)

California: red
****1/2 cellar
Clos du Val Oak Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Napa Valley, Stags Leap District $67.95 (720961)
Expressive, rich, concentrated and tannic—you're looking at big dollars and a big wine that's worth every penny. Look for aromas of smoke, oak and cassis. The structure is all about the tannins, for now, but there are copious amounts of dark rich and ripe flavours—cherry, crème de cacao and blackberry—all biding their time and you'll need to bide yours, too. Hide this in the depth of your cellar for a 2012 celebration, accompanied by grilled steak. This is quintessential quality California Cab. (VH)

****1/2 cellar
Duckhorn Vineyards Merlot 2004
Napa Valley $64.95 (992529)
This opens with a soft subtle nose of black currant and black plum, but it's a bruiser of a wine. It's full flavoured—briary berries, cassis and dark chocolate—with oodles of grippy tannins. It has a firm structure, a plush mouth feel and a long and luxurious finish that adds on some gorgeous sweet black cherry nuances. This is a cellar-dweller that will pay great dividends when drunk 2010 to 2015. Pair with boeuf bourguignon. (VH)

Argentina: red
**** cellar
Doña Paula Estate Shiraz-Malbec 2005
Mendoza $16.95 (998492)
Rich and red berry aromas open up this gem that would be a great choice for a burgeoning cellar master. It's big and powerful, due in part to the low-yields, but also to the rich, ripe fruit that was harvested. Look for earthy, black licorice and spicy aromas and a huge attack on the palate with pronounced juicy, currant and brambleberry flavours that are still held in the strong grip of a ripe, but powerful tannic structure. That's where the cellar comes in; drink it from 2011 to 2016. There's very good value here. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Gran Lurton Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva 2005
Mendoza $20.95 (980334)
Smoke, spice and field berry aromas form the segue to this elegant red. It's full-bodied and absolutely chock full of flavour—sweet black cherry, dark chocolate and black licorice to the fore. Deftly balanced and well-structured, you'll also experience some perceptible tannin. You can deal with them by serving with a rare to medium-rare steak and enjoying the wine now. Or, you can cellar and drink 2009 to 2014. Excellent value. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Santa Julia Malbec Reserva 2005
Mendoza $13.95 (665026)
If you've never purchased multiple bottles of wine from a winecurrent review, this would be the one on which to cut your teeth. The lifted nose offers rich black plum, espresso roast and black currant aromas and the texture is medium-bodied and smooth. The flavours are concentrated with cherry and black plum to the fore. Expect good balance and a lengthy, dry finish. It's not overdone in any way and sports an acceptable 14% alcohol level. This earned its final half-star on its great taste and incredible value. Stock up; I will. (VH)

Chile: red
**** drink now
Los Vascos Grande Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Colchagua Valley $17.95 (032078)
Cherry, spice and earthy aromas waft from the glass of this medium-bodied red from the cool coastal climate of the Colchagua Valley. It offers a beautifully textured mouth feel and carries the flavours of chocolate, sweet currant and red cherry along on a stream of moderating acidity. You get lovely balance, firm structure and good value here. Burgers or grilled steak would provide lovely partners. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Viña Tabali Carmenère Reserva 2005
Limarí Valley $14.95 (044008)
Nothing to get mad at here, it offers aromas and flavours of brambleberry, sweet rich cherry and spice. It's round and ready to go with no discernible tannins and only enough acidity to keep it from becoming too jammy. You'll enjoy the wine and its lengthy finish when sipped on its own or paired with grilled spicy gourmet sausages or a spicy meat loaf. (VH)

Australia: red
****1/2 drink now
Clarence Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia $18.95 (043729)
Brace yourself for a teeth-staining, heavily-extracted, powerful robust monster—don't say you weren't warned. This full-flavoured bruiser oozes with blackberry liqueur and black currant flavours that are ably supported by ripe tannins, moderating acidity and a lengthy and layered finish that adds some high notes of mint and spice. A slight chill will tame this a bit, then pair it with grilled rack of lamb slathered with garlic and rosemary. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Richard Hamilton 'Hut Block' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (567917)
Paul Gordon, the wine making wizard for Richard Hamilton, worked his magic on this beauty—it's elegant and restrained, yet lip-smacking good. Look for blueberry and mint on the nose then a gusher of flavour with currant, mint and brambleberry to the fore. The lengthy finish adds a hint of cassis. You'll be pleased with the deft balance and food-friendly nature of the wine. It pairs nicely with lamb, beefsteak, burgers or stew. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet/Shiraz/Merlot 2005
Coonawarra, South Australia $19.95 (511600)
Always a winner, and this vintage doesn't disappoint. Look for a smoky, red berry nose and an intriguing wine that's expressive with interesting flavours and nuances, but not an in-your-face fruit bomb. There are pronounced fruit flavours of black plum and spice on the palate with layers of spice, pepper and cherry infusing the finish. It also needs a couple of years cellaring to soften those ripe, but perceptible tannins. Don't want to wait? Pair with a grilled-rare strip loin. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Yalumba Barossa Shiraz & Viognier 2004
Barossa Valley $19.95 (524926)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Deep, dark and brooding in the glass, look for violets and spice box on the nose then a gusher of rich and concentrated flavours - black juicy cherry, creosote and black licorice. It is medium bodied and quite full textured with some edgy tannins still hanging around. The finish is layered, lengthy and luxurious. A couple of years in the cellar will help it knit together. Can't wait? A three hour decant and a steak grilled rare should do it. (VH)

New Zealand: white
**** drink now
Gunn Estate Unoaked Chardonnay 2006
$17.95 (694885)
From the subtle nose of peach and floral notes to the long dry and refreshing finish, this is very well made and surprisingly (no oak) textured and weighty. It's fairly bursting with full-fruit flavours—sweet ripe peach, pineapple and citrus. It's impeccably balanced and offers a fabulous alternative to over-oaked Chardonnay. This is seeking a pan-grilled freshwater fish (bass or trout) drizzled with freshly-squeezed lemon. (VH)

South Africa: red
***1/2 drink now
Dornier Merlot 2004
WO Stellenbosch $15.95 (694224)
You'll experience oodles of those distinctive S.A. red aromas and flavours of smoke, creosote and charred wood that clearly divide those that that love it and those that don't. There's also juicy ripe fruit flavours—blackberry liqueur and sweet cherry. This is medium bodied and well balanced. The finish is quite lengthy and adds on a bit of tannin, but nothing to interfere with the enjoyment of this wine now. Grilled burgers or grilled spicy sausages would be the go. (VH)
France: white
Midi

**** drink now
Viognier de Campuget Cuvée Prestige 2006
Vin du Pays du Gard $19.95 (041871)
There's an enchanting nose of honeycomb and floral notes to get you started on this gloriously aromatic (honey and stone fruit) and full-flavoured wine. You'll experience a cornucopia of rich flavours including honey, tangy citrus, orange peel and yellow peaches in syrup that carry through to the medium-length finish. It displays good balance and offers good value. Pork tenderloin stuffed with dried fruits (apricot, peach) is a lovely pairing. (VH)

France: red wine

Rhône
****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Pradelle Crozes-Hermitage 2004
AOC Crozes-Hermitage $21.95 (674192)
A delicious Syrah that delivers impressive complexity and balance, and makes a wonderful partner for well-seasoned barbecued lamb. The aromas deliver lifted notes of flowers on dark plum and berries. The fruit replays on the palate, where it's joined by notes of caramel and leather. This is a medium-full bodied wine with a smooth texture and tannins that are drinking easily now. (RP)

Italy: white
*** drink now
Maculan Pinot Grigio 2006
DOC Breganze $14.95 (734921)
This begins with a subdued and subtle nose of mineral and hints of citrus. There's decent texture and weight here, it's light to medium bodied and delivers flavours of white grapefruit and Granny Smith apple. The citrus really comes to the fore on the dry and cleansing finish. This is straightforward and very refreshing, making it a perfect partner for pan-seared white fish under a drizzle of freshly-squeezed lemon. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Monte del Frá Soave2006
DOC Soave $15.95 (051631)
Look for floral, mineral notes and a touch of spice on the nose and a nice array of fruit flavours including green apple, pink grapefruit, yellow peach and lemon on the palate. It's light to medium bodied, 100% Garganega grapes, all nicely balanced, very clean and refreshing on the finish with a little bitter bite, and quite good value. It pairs well with lemon chicken, pan-seared white fish or lemon veal. (VH)

Italy: red

Abruzzi
**** drink now
Tatone 'Terra d'Aligi' 2003
DOC Montepulciano d'Abruzzo $15.95 (994616)
This seems to find its way to my 'drinking cellar' every vintage; this year will be no exception. Reflecting the blazing hot 2003 vintage, you'll find sweet ripe fruit aromas and flavours including Bing cherry, brambleberry and kirsch. In spite of that, there's a reasonable tannic structure and enough acidity to earn it a 'well balanced and not overly jammy' rating. You'll experience a pretty lengthy and layered finish, as well. As the Vintages catalogue suggests, it will pair well with stew; osso bucco for me, please. (VH)

Emilia-Romagna
****1/2 drink or cellar
Drei Donã Pruno Sangiovese Superiore Riserva 2003
DOC Sangiovese di Romagna $37.95 (667394)
This is a classy, powerful rich red that oozes with sweet ripe fruit, perceptible, but acceptable, tannins and a lengthy, luxurious and layered finish. The sweet ripe fruit flavours include black currant compote and cassis, and you also may discover some tar and earthy notes. It's full bodied with a wonderful tannic structure and moderating acidity, providing interesting drinking and balance. You can drink now to 2012 alongside smoked and grilled, garlic-rubbed back ribs. (VH)

Tuscany
**** drink now
Altesino Rosso 2004
IGT Toscana $18.95 (658369)
Expect a very refreshing red with more finesse than most at this price and one that exhibits some very fragrant aromas of lilacs, cherry and earthy notes. Look for refined flavours that are in the spiced red berry zone along with nuances of blueberry and currant. It's medium-bodied and exhibits fine balance. It shows a surprisingly supple texture given its brief time in oak; only three months. This would make a suitable complement to meat sauce pasta like spaghetti bolognaise. (VH)

Portugal: red
*** drink or cellar
Sogrape Callabriga Tinto 2003
DOC Douro $18.95 (682591)
Although made from traditional Port grapes of the Douro region, this is definitely not sweet; it's dry, exceedingly dry. Aromas of red cherry and spice form the segue to this medium-bodied red. The fruit flavours of Montmorency cherries and cranberry are omnipresent right through to the finish. The finish does add a dollop of some sweeter fruit like black cherry and black raspberry. This is a wine built for those who like their wines dry or can be enjoyed by everyone with tomato-based sauces and pasta. (VH)

Spain: red

**** drink or cellar
Bodegas Castaño 'Hécula' 2004
DO Yecla $15.95 (718999)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Hécula is always popular, and the 2004 vintage offers the quality and value that will ensure that it sells through quickly. Its 100% Mourvèdre delivers quite powerful depth of flavour. You'll find black fruit and berries with notes of coffee, chocolate and spice, all within a well-structured frame. Drink it now (with well-seasoned red meat) or hold it two or three years, but make sure you get some. (RP)

**** drink now
Real Sitio de Ventosilla 'Prado Rey Roble' 2005
DO Ribera del Duero $16.95 (674465)
This blend (and others in this mode) of 95% Tempranillo, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Merlot, makes one wonder why they didn't simply go with 100% Tempranillo. Do those miniscule portions of Cabernet and Merlot make a difference? Maybe they do; it's quite delicious. Expect lifted aromas of cherry and pronounced fruit flavours of sweet black cherry and black plum, with hints of vanilla—from four months in oak—from this medium-bodied crowd pleaser. It's silky smooth; you'll revel in the experience. (VH)

Cheers, Vic and Rod

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar