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Winecurrent newsletter September 1 2007 release

An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

This release starts with a major Pinot Noir feature, follows up with an Austria feature, then moves on to the main release.

Vic was in France when these wines were tasted, so Rod looked after them, but Vic has contributed to the “Upstream” and other sections of this newsletter with an array of Champagnes tasted at various Champagne houses during his trip.

Pinot Noir feature

Burgundy (more French regions below)

**** drink or cellar
Albert Bichot Pinot Noir Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes 2005
AOC Bourgogne $18.95 (43331)
This is a good price for a well-made, solid Burgundy. The fruit is predominantly red cherry and berry, but there’s nice complexity in some spice and earthy notes, too. It has refreshing acidity and light tannins. With medium weight and a tangy texture, it’s a good match for turkey with cranberry sauce. Buy some in anticipation of Thanksgiving. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Joseph Drouhin Gevrey-Chambertin 2005
AOC Gevrey-Chambertin $61.95 (993063)
This lovely wine delivers concentrated, complex and focused flavours of vibrant red fruit (cherry, plum, berries). It displays excellent structure, with a good seam of acidity and ripe, gripping tannins. Stylish, rich and dry, it’s a pleasure to drink, and it pairs well with grilled duck breast. (RP)

California

**** drink or cellar
Carneros Creek Pinot Noir Reserve 2005
Carneros $29.95 (918151)
This is a Pinot that offers generous fruit and good structure. Look for flavours of ripe dark cherry, blackberry and mulberry, with some spicy and toasty notes. It’s dry with a light grip from its ripe tannins, and it’s drinking well now. Pour it with grilled lamb chops. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Kenwood Pinot Noir 2005
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County $20.95 (943225)
A well-made Pinot that delivers flavours of sweet, ripe red fruit—plum, berries, cherries—with some attractive herbal notes. It’s nicely balanced with a refreshing texture, and has light tannins. Drink it with grilled chicken or turkey and cranberry sauce. (RP)

New Zealand

**** drink or cellar
Hunter’s Pinot Noir 2006
Marlborough $22.95 (586115)
This is a well-made, food-friendly Pinot that has a prominent and refreshing seam of acidity that harmonizes with the solid flavours of red cherry and berries. Medium bodied and lightly tannic, it’s a good partner for roast veal tenderloin lightly rubbed with herbs. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
Margrain River’s Edge Pinot Noir 2004
Martinborough $30.95 (684258)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) Martinborough Pinot Noirs are winning wide acclaim, and it's not surprising with wines of this quality. It's an elegant Pinot Noir that over-delivers on just about everything. The dark cherry-dominant flavours are multi-faceted, with swirling pepper and herbal notes finely balanced by the acidity. It has a texture that invites food, good tannins that make themselves felt but not unwelcome, and a long herbal finish. Classy and classic, gutsy and elegant, it's quite stunning. Enjoy it with grilled chicken topped with grilled shiitake mushrooms. (RP)

France

**** drink or cellar
Pierre Sparr Pinot Noir Réserve 2005
AOC Alsace $18.95 (38992)
We don’t see a lot of reds from Alsace, but here’s your chance to taste a very good one from a well-known producer. This Pinot Noir is dry, with good, firm tannins, and offers soft flavours of red fruit (cherry, plum) with some light spice and earthy accents. It’s medium bodied and the bright balanced acidity steers it toward grilled or roast chicken. (RP)

**** drink now
Fournier Sancerre Rouge 2003
AOC Sancerre $29.95 (925693)
Did I say we don’t see many reds from Alsace? How about Sancerre, home of Sauvignon Blanc? This is a very good product of the hot 2003 vintage. You get quite concentrated and pungent flavours of cherry and plum, with firm earthy notes. It’s medium bodied with decent ripe tannins, and it goes well with grilled Atlantic salmon. (RP)

Australia

**** drink now
Yarra Ridge Pinot Noir 2005
Yarra Valley $19.95 (988568)
A fruity and quite delicious Pinot that’s ready to drink now. The flavours are dominated by dark cherry and red and black berries, with good spice and slightly peppery notes. It’s medium bodied, nicely balanced, and is a versatile wine for food. Drink it with well-seasoned chicken or pork. (RP)

Ontario

**** drink or cellar
Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir 2005
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 (1545)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This is a well-made, well-priced and very attractive Pinot Noir. The flavours are dominated by sweet black and red cherry, strawberry, and savoury notes. Look for an underlying earthiness that gives added complexity. Medium bodied and nicely balanced with good acidity and tannic grip, this makes a great partner with grilled lamb chops. (RP)

British Columbia

**** drink now
Mission Hill Reserve Pinot Noir 2005
VQA Okanagan Valley $24.95 (545012)
A nicely-paced Pinot Noir in a lighter style that’s an excellent partner for salmon grilled on a cedar plank. It has solid fruit flavours of red cherry and berries, with notes of spice and a hint of earthiness. It’s dry, with a good spine of acidity, and has fine, firm tannins. (RP)

Chile

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cono Sur ‘Visión’ Pinot Noir 2006
Colchagua Valley $15.95 (689992)
Cono Sur is Chile’s biggest producer of Pinot Noir, and this is one of their premium lines. What you get is a delicious and classy New World Pinot, full of plush dark cherry flavour with notes of smoke and oak. Thanks to a good seam of acidity, it has a refreshing texture that makes it an excellent partner for a rack of lamb. (RP)

Champagne and Sparkling Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Laurent-Perrier ‘Cuvée Rosé’ Brut Non-Vintage Champagne
AOC Champagne $89.95 (158550)
This rosé Champagne is the gold standard against which others are measured. It’s made from 100% Pinot Noir gaining its vibrant salmon-pink colour from short (12 to 72 hours) skin contact—a method considered difficult to replicate each vintage and known as saignée. Surprisingly, most rosé Champagne gains its pink colour from the addition of small amounts of still red wine. Strawberry, raspberry and spice aromatics form the lifted nose on this medium-bodied gem. Look for similar flavours through to the lengthy and refreshing finish that adds on some cherry notes. Often served as an aperitif, it has the heft to be enjoyed with food—soft cheeses, poached salmon, pan-seared tuna or turkey. Serve well-chilled, straight from the refrigerator or the ice bucket. (VH)

Austria feature

**** drink or cellar
Domaine Wachau Grüner Veltliner Federspiel 2006
Wachau $16.95 (47902)
This is an interesting white that’s worth having a look at. You’ll appreciate the fruit purity here, with nice clean flavours of apple, pear and citrus and a touch of white pepper and spice. It’s medium bodied and clean textured, and goes well with grilled seafood. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Moorhof Muskat Ottonel 2006
Neusiedlersee-Hugelland $15.95 (628667)
This makes a very pleasant late summer sipping wine and also goes well with spicy seafood and chicken dishes. Try it with moderately spicy Thai dishes. It’s aromatic and flavourful, with floral notes and flavours of white peach, apricot pit and green globe grapes. Light to medium in weight, it’s quite dry and nicely balanced. (RP)

Main release

Ontario: white

****1/2 drink now
Château des Charmes Gewürztraminer 2005
VQA St. Davids Bench $19.95 (453472)
This is a quite delicious Gewürztraminer with an excellent fruit profile and structure. Look for musk, spicy peach and apricot, with a clean seam of acidity for balance. Medium bodied and food-friendly, it’s a great complement for Thanksgiving, with its roast turkey, sauce and root vegetables. (RP)

**** drink now
Hillebrand 'Trius' White 2006
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent) This the first Trius White, and it augurs exceptionally well for the new line. It's a blend of Gewürztraminer (33%), Riesling (30%), Pinot Gris (28%) and Chardonnay (9%) that more than delivers on flavour and elegance. The aromas and flavours are primarily in the peach and apricot zones, with attractive splashes of floral and spice. The flavours are quite delicate but they're well defined, and the overall effect is elegant and flavourful. A spine of clean acidity makes this a more-ish wine that drinks well by itself or with slightly spicy seafood and chicken dishes. (RP)

California: red

****1/2 drink now
Clos du Bois Zinfandel 2003
North Coast $21.95 (38000)
This is as New World as you get in style, with its full-flavoured, up-front fruitiness. Unlike so many Zinfandels, it’s not heavy and sticky, but delivers fresh fruit—in the plum and berry zones—and a lively texture. As the Vintages catalog suggests, barbecued backribs and this Zin would make a delicious meal. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Duckhorn Vineyards Decoy 2005
Napa Valley $41.95 (41343)
This is a pure Bordeaux blend, with Cabernet Sauvignon (45%), Merlot (36%), Cabernet Franc (11%) and Petit Verdot (8%). The result is a richly-flavoured (black cherry and berry, spice, and vanilla) and very well-structured effort. It has a refreshing texture and firm, manageable tannins. Pair it with a richly-seasoned, roasted rack of lamb. (RP)

***** drink or cellar
Franciscan Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Napa Valley $29.95 (39388)
This is a beautiful Cabernet Sauvignon at a very good price for the quality. With its firm, long tannins, you can drink it now (with red meat) or cellar it three to five years. The fruit flavours—with black currant, black plum, black cherry to the fore, with notes of spice, pepper and vanilla—are up-front but not in your face. This is a well-structured wine, not a brash fruit-bomb, and it has good balancing acidity. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Qupé Syrah 2005
Central Coast $24.95 (655878)
A well-made, well-balanced Syrah that delivers quite concentrated cherry and berry flavours. Look for a good core of acidity here, cutting through the fruit sweetness and adding some lightness to the texture. This goes well with grilled lamb or veal. (RP)

Argentina: white

**** drink now
Lurton Chardonnay Reserva 2006
Valle de Uco, Mendoza $13.95 (591743)
This has an extraordinarily creamy texture, to the point that it might be too much for some palates. It’s chock full of up-front, ripe, luscious fruit flavours—peach and tropical fruit predominate—with some lighter leesy notes. This is such a big textured wine, it’s hard to suggest a food it won’t smother. Drink it on its own? (RP)

**** drink now
Lurton Malbec Reserva 2005
Alto Valle de Ueo, Mendoza $14.95 (903153)
This is great value for a delicious Malbec. Look for rich, intense flavours of dark plum and berries, with notes of spice, coffee and chocolate. It’s dry, softly tannic and well balanced, and it’s a versatile red for many barbecued red meat dishes. (RP)

Chile: red

**** drink or cellar
Gran Araucano Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Colchagua Valley $32.95 (675579)
Quite a delicious Cab, with concentrated flavours of crushed blackberry, black cherry, coffee, spice and vanilla. Medium to full-bodied, it’s dense and dry with good tannic grip and an attractively tangy texture. Pair it with grilled beef, bison, or venison. (RP)

Australia: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Evans & Tate Shiraz 2003
Margaret River $19.95 (606905)
This is a very good price for an Australian Shiraz that stands out from the crowd—and there really is a crowd of Australian Shirazes. The fruit—mainly black cherry, with notes of spice, mint and vanilla—is concentrated and layered, and the texture is smooth. It has high alcohol, but it’s well managed and doesn’t interfere with your enjoyment of the wine. The tannins are ripe and sweet, and this is a lovely partner to grilled red meat. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Richard Hamilton Lot 148 Merlot 2005
McLaren Vale $18.95 (39461)
My first impression of this wine was the plush richness of the fruit. It’s fruit-forward, all right, but not in the amorphic way of so many fruit-bombs. This has complexity and the structure to last another 10 years. Look for dominant flavours of black plum and cherry, with spicy vanilla notes. It’s drinking well now and goes well with veal and spicy sausages. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Torbreck ‘Woodcutter’s’ Shiraz 2005
Barossa Valley $25.95 (927533)
This is a delicious Shiraz that’s exceptional value. It delivers complex and concentrated flavours of dark fruit accented with spice, caramel, smoke and tar. The texture is smooth, the tannins are fine, and the balance is poised. All in all, it’s an excellent effort and a wonderful partner to a roasted rack of lamb with a maple sauce-Dijon mustard glaze. (RP)

New Zealand: white

**** drink now
Shingle Peak Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Marlborough $17.95 (32854)
Another fine Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, this delivers quite pungent passion fruit and gooseberry flavours with zesty citrus (lemon-lime) acidity. It’s dry, crisp and clean, and makes a great partner for freshly-shucked oysters or for grilled shrimps with a squeeze of lemon. (RP)

France: white

**** drink now
Simonnet-Febvre Chablis 2005
AOC Chablis $19.95 (41780)
This is a lean and minerally Chablis in the best tradition of the region. The flavours are predominantly white peach and pear with assertive lemon-lime acidity, and the overall effect is clean and quite concentrated. Drink it with seafood or freshwater fish served with a little lemon. (RP)

France: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Michel Gassier ‘Les Piliers’ Syrah 2004
AOC Costières de Nîmes $18.95 (678086)
This is always an attractive wine and the 2004 vintage carries on the tradition. It’s a little less plush than the 2003, as you’d expect, but the familiar richness is here. Look for dominant flavours of red berries, cherry and peppery spice. It’s dry, quite tannic, well balanced, and a great partner for well-seasoned grilled lamb. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Monpertuis Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2004
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $39.95 (956326)
Dry, rich, complex and delicious are the four adjectives that come to mind immediately. This well-structured blend is full of dark and red fruit flavours, along with spice, pepper, leather, smoke and meat. It’s nicely layered with firm tannins and a decent backbone of acidity. You can drink this now, but you could easily hold it another year or two before starting. Then drink over the next five to eight years. (RP)

Italy: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Luigi Righetti Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2005
DOC Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso $17.95 (575787)
I wavered between 4 and 4.5 stars and was finally persuaded by the price. This is really very good value—an attractive, dry red that delivers on fruit (pungent cherry, plum, spice and earthiness), texture (tangy) and balance (good). It’s weighty enough to handle substantial red meat and game dishes. (RP)

***** drink or cellar
Speri Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2003
DOC Amarone della Valpolicella Classico $62.95 (38950)
An intensely-flavoured wine in conventional vintages, this is even more so in the torrid 2003 growing season. Despite all the fears about the consequences of the heat (early ripening, low acidity) many producers handled the conditions deftly. It’s full bodied with sweet fruit: plum and berries, with notes of spice and herbs. The balance is there, too, and this makes great drinking with full-flavoured red meat and game. (RP)

Spain: red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Muga Reserva 2003
DOC Rioja $23.95 (177345)
Buy lots of this to enjoy with grilled red meats from the barbecue and rich beef and lamb stew during the fall and early winter. It’s well-flavoured, with dark cherry and plum accented by spice, pepper and vanilla. The texture is smooth with a slight tanginess, and the complex finish is long. (RP)

Upstream on Winecurrent

Vintages Release, September 29, 2007

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine de Roquemale ‘Les Terraces’ 2005
AOC Coteaux du Languedoc $16.95 (42978)
This is a very attractive blend that’s 40% Cinsault, 40% Grenache and 20% Syrah, all from fairly mature vines (ranging from 17-year-old Syrah to 40-year-old Cinsault). The aromas and flavours are predominantly black berries and dark cherries, with spicy notes and the slightest hint of pepper. Medium bodied, it has easy-going tannins, and a smooth texture. A good line of acidity makes it an excellent partner for grilled red meats. (RP)

Vintages Release, September 29, 2007

**** drink or cellar
Château Lamargue ‘Cuvée Aegidiane’ 2003
Costières de Nîmes $20.95 (33993)
This is an appealing blend of Syrah (80%) and Grenache (20%) that delivers fairly high-toned aromas and concentrated flavours of black and red cherry, black berries and spice, all complemented by more refreshing acidity than you’d expect from the 2003 vintage. The tannins are ripe and the texture is edgy and interesting. It’s a wine that demands food, and an excellent match is grilled, well-seasoned lamb chops. (RP)

Vintages Release October, 2007

****1/2 drink now
Taittinger Brut Réserve Non-Vintage Champagne
AOC Champagne $59.95 (814723)
Tattinger’s total production is 5 million bottles per annum and 4 million is this very popular Brut Réserve. Uncharacteristically for a Champagne with such high production, it’s predominantly Chardonnay (40%) with the balance an even split between Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Twenty percent of the wine is from previous vintages—15% from the previous year’s harvest and 5% from 2 years before with the wine cellared 3 to 4 years before release. Look for an aromatic nose of citrus, green apple and floral notes then a riveting attack on the palate of a frothy expansive mousse delivering citrus (white grapefruit and lemon), mineral notes and pear. This exhibits delicate balance and an air of elegance, finishing clean and refreshing. It’s a natural as an aperitif and pairs extremely well with pan-seared white fish under a drizzle of freshly-squeezed lemon. (VH)

Vintages Release November, 2007

***** drink or cellar
Gosset ‘Celebris 1998’ Brut Champagne
AOC Champagne $150.00 (990796)
This outstanding Vintage delivers robust and expressive Champagne without sacrificing elegance or finesse. The blend, chosen from 8 Grand Crus (averaging 95% in the Champagne scale of quality vineyards), is 64% Chardonnay (all from the favoured Côte des Blancs) and 36% Pinot Noir. Fermented partially in cask and kept in small lots, it’s also riddled by hand. Incredibly aromatic, expect a profusion of lifted aromas—lemon blossom, honeycomb and citrus among them. There’s a lively mousse followed by a steady stream of fine bubbles in this medium- to full-bodied gem. The flavours are layered and expressive, look for pineapple, tangy citrus, yellow plum, peaches in syrup and spice. These follow through to the extremely lengthy and well-balanced finish. This is drinking beautifully now and will hold this level of excellence well into 2015. Divine served with oysters or saltwater fish. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Gosset ‘Grand Millésime1999’ Brut Champagne
AOC Champagne $89.00 (596973)
An unusual trio of great Champagne vintages occurred in 1998, 1999 and 2000. With ’99 classified ‘warm’, it’s no surprise this fairly explodes with fruity aromas and flavours. The blend is 56% Chardonnay and 44% Pinot Noir and presented in a uniquely-shaped (18th century) and coloured (brown) glass bottle. Expect a cornucopia of aromas—tropical fruit, honey, spice box and orange blossom—followed by flavours of white peach and moderating citrussy notes that are carried along by its medium body and profusion of mousse (frothy bubbles). The finish is lively, refreshing, lengthy and deftly balanced; look for peach, white grapefruit and spice. This is drinking beautifully now and will continue to do so over the next 4 to 5 years. Pair this Vintage offering with sweetbreads, veal medallions or roast pork tenderloin with a dried fruit stuffing. (VH)

New in the LCBO

Look for these new wines, or new vintages of continuing wines, in the General List of the LCBO.

Chile: Caliterra

I recently tasted the latest vintages of Caliterra’s General List wines with the Chief Winemaker, Sergio Cuadra. I was especially impressed by the whites, and the reds are very solid, too.

**** drink now
Caliterra Sauvignon Blanc Reserva 2006
Curicó Valley $11.35 (275909)
For this price, it’s a stunning Sauvignon Blanc, with rich fruit flavour and vibrant acidity in excellent harmony with each other. Look for core flavours of tropical fruit, with notes of gooseberry and passion fruit. It’s excellent with calamari. (RP)

**** drink now
Caliterra Chardonnay Reserva 2005
Curicó Valley $11.35 (257147)
A luscious Chardonnay that features pure and concentrated flavours of peach and tropical fruit. (It’s 30% aged in stainless steel, the rest in a mix of new and used barrels.) The texture is smooth and creamy—a marvelous mouthfeel. Well-balanced, it’s food friendly and goes well with chicken, turkey and pork. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Caliterra Merlot Reserva 2005
Colchagua Valley $12.35 (466482)
Look for bold flavours of plum and crushed berries, with notes of pepper and spice. (A little Carmenère adds to the density and spiciness.) It’s medium-plus in weight and has a smooth and tangy texture. Pair it up with grilled lamb. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Caliterra Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2005
Colchagua Valley $12.35 (257329)
A nicely-structured, medium-bodied Cab that delivers flavours of red cherry, plum and mulberries, with attractive spicy notes. It has a good tangy texture with just enough bite to make you hungry. Pair it, as I did, with a steak grilled medium-rare. (RP)

Cellared in Canada: Wild Horse Canyon wines

“Cellared in Canada” wines are the bane of many Canadian wineries. They’re blends of Canadian and non-Canadian wines (usually a very small percentage of Canadian) but poor labeling and erroneous shelving in many LCBO stores lead many consumers to think they are Canadian wine. Wild Horse Canyon is a new brand to the LCBO and it takes a new tack by announcing more boldly “West Coast Appellation. British Columbia. Washington California” on the front label. So we know it’s a multi-regional (and international) blend, and where the components are from, which is a big improvement on most blended wines. These wines are already available in western Canada.

***1/2 drink now
Wild Horse Canyon Sauvignon Blanc 2006
British Columbia/Washington/California $13.95 (54445)
This is surprisingly acidic—not too acidic at all, but assertive—for a wine aimed at a broad consumer group. I like it. It’s got good fruit character (lots of white grapefruit, lemon and lime), zesty texture, a rounded mouthfeel, and it’s a natural for white fish served with lemon. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Wild Horse Canyon Chardonnay 2006
British Columbia/Washington/California $13.95 (54437)
This is packed with rich, full-flavoured fruit: ripe peach, sweet pear and pineapple, and tropical. It’s got a lively texture and a full, smooth mouthfeel. The finish is sweet and crisp, and this goes well with chicken breast served with a sweet salsa. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Wild Horse Canyon Merlot 2005
British Columbia/Washington/California $13.95 (54411)
Rich and quite intensely fruity, but it has a good seam of acidity that makes it versatile with food. The dominant flavours are spicy plum, cherry and red berries and the texture is quite tangy. It’s dry with light tannins. There’s a little warmth from the 14% alcohol, but this will pair well with red meat dishes, burgers or with a meat-heavy pizza. (RP)

***1/2 drink now
Wild Horse Canyon Shiraz 2005
British Columbia/Washington/California $13.95 (54429)
The flavours are concentrated and dominated by sweet black berries and cherries, with some appealing peppery, spicy notes. It’s fruit-forward with good balance, dry, and tangy-textured. With soft tannins, this is a natural for barbecued sausages, burgers or ribs. (RP)

France

****1/2 drink now
Gosset ‘Excellence Brut’ Non-Vintage Champagne
AOC Champagne $54.10 (669143)
Gosset is the oldest wine house in Champagne, dating back to 1584. This blend—45% Pinot Noir, 42% Chardonnay and 13% Pinot Meunier—exhibits some of its black grape predominance in the deep rich gold colour. It’s a blend of the 2004/2005 vintages. The only wine from Gosset to undergo malolactic fermentation, look for a medium to full body, with a plush mouthfeel. The aromas are involved and quite intense—sweet spice, nutty and floral notes, plus lovely leesy undertones. It delivers a huge attack of mouth-filling flavours—citrus, honey and white peach—with more of the same on the glorious finish, plus a hit of yellow plum. This is dry, refreshing and perfect when served to guests as an elegant aperitif. It also pairs well with poultry and simply-prepared white fish. Also available via Halpern Wine 1-416-593-2662 is a 375 ml at $29.35. (VH)

Germany

*** drink now
Relax Cool Red 2004
QbA Rheinhessen $5.65/375ml (32698)
In its shiny red metal bottle, this looks more like an energy drink—except that the “Relax” brand implies anything but energy. It’s a blend of Pinot Noir and Dornfelder that’s quite intensely flavored; look for dark plum, cherry, and a little spiciness. I expected a bit more acidity, but it’s still a decent choice for barbecued red meats and aged cheddar. And it’s light and portable, making it a good wine to take on trips. (RP)

New in Ontario wineries

**** drink or cellar
Daniel Lenko Reserve Riesling 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95
This Riesling is drinking very well now, but will gather complexity over the next two to four years. Right now you’re looking at bright, crisp acidity and very attractive, slightly honeyed flavours of lime and orange zest with core flavours of sweet pear and apple. There’s a hint of petrol that will intensify a little over time. All in all, a delicious wine that goes well with spicy shrimp. Order from This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. (RP)

*** drink now
Reif Estate Chardonnay 2005
VQA Niagara Peninsula $10.95 (127977)
This is a well-made Chardonnay that delivers solid flavours of apple, pear and citrus, with a hint of caramel. It’s dry and medium bodied, with a smooth texture and the refreshing acidity makes it a versatile partner for food. Try it with white fish or chicken dishes. Order from reifwinery.com or 905-468-7738. (RP)

New in Restaurants

France

****1/2 drink now
Gosset ‘Grand Réserve’ Brut Non-Vintage Champagne
AOC Champagne $65.00 750 ml (669143) / $21.45 200 ml
This is a blend of only ‘declared’ Vintage years and in this wine that’s1998, 1999 and 2000. The blend of grapes is 46% Chardonnay, 44% Pinot Noir with the balance Pinot Meunier. It’s a rich golden yellow and displays some of the wonderful aromatic characteristics of an aged Champagne—nutty, yeasty and toasty, along with notes of white flowers. Look for a huge mousse, an excellent flavourful attack on the palate plus deft balance and no small amount of finesse. The rich and complex flavours include lemon, yellow plum and a lovely dollop of honey. The finish is lengthy and adds on a layer of ripe nectarine. This pairs beautifully with roast turkey or chicken Kiev. The 200 ml is available now and the 750 ml in November. Best to pre-order now as the allotment is not large. Order via Halpern Wine at 1-416-593-2662. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Laurent-Perrier ‘Brut L-P’ Non-Vintage Champagne
AOC Champagne $57.95 (340679)
The blend is 45% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 15% Pinot Meunier grapes that have been sourced in vineyards with an average rating of 94/100 in the Champagne scale of quality vineyards. It’s also been aged more than twice as long as regulations require (3 to 4 years as opposed to 15 months) allowing the development of some complexity in appearance, aromas and flavours. This pours a rich golden colour in the glass and delivers a mélange of aromas including, brioche, white flowers along with some leesy notes. It offers a refreshing attack of citrus, apple and pear with a wonderful mousse and a steady stream of small bubbles. The finish is lengthy and layered, adding on a flavour of delicious white peach. It’s refreshing, well-balanced and flavourful. There are a very few bottles of this in LCBO stores. However, if you’re too late to get those a new shipment will be arriving mid-December and you can place your order now, by the case of 6, direct from the agent Philippe Dandurand Wines at 1-888-820-2087. (VH)

**** drink now
Taittinger ‘Brut Prestige Rosé’ Non-Vintage Champagne
AOC Champagne $72.95
Blended with 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, the vibrant colour is achieved by blending in 15% still red wine (Pinot Noir) from the Grand Cru village of Ambonnay. The lively nose delivers delightful aromas of freshly picked strawberries and pink grapefruit. The palate offers a medium texture that carries along tangy and refreshing flavours of currants and red field berries. The finish is balanced, and medium in length with flavours of strawberry and raspberry to the fore. Serve this as a wine to welcome guests. A very limited allotment of 20 cases will arrive in December, but you will need to place an order soon as it sells quickly. Order from Pacific Wine and Spirits 1-416-622-8000. There’s no minimum order and no delivery charge in the GTA. (VH)

Italy

**** drink or cellar
Vietti ‘Tre Vigne’ Dolcetto d’Alba 2004
DOC Dolcetto d’Alba
It’s a striking ruby red in the glass, with lovely intense aromas of plum, cherry and spice, with distinct notes of smoke and bacon. The meaty notes drop off on the palate, where you get cherry, plum and pepper, wrapped in a tangy texture. It’s dry with light tannins and makes an excellent partner to red meat or veal in a tomato-based sauce. Order from Rogers & Co. at 416 961 2294. (RP)

Cheers, Rod and Vic

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2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar