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An explanation of the scoring system and icons is included at the end of this newsletter.

This release begins with a very good selection of wines from Spain-a country now producing more than its fair share of good, even great wine, with many of them value-priced. The wineries represented are a mix of old favourites and new arrivals, and are listed by large geographical area. The various styles include rosé, sparkling, dessert and Sherry. The release then carries on with the usual country-by-country selections.

Spain: North and Central Area

White

***1/2 drink now
Viña Gravonia Crianza 1996
DOC Rioja $26.95 (910711)
Expect some rancio/oxidized notes overlaying the fruit on this wine. The Vintages catalog write-up suggests that the winemakers are "traditionalists, so they look for some oxidation in their finished wine." Well, they're successful, but I'm not convinced that this is the sort of "traditionalism" I'm keen on. Still, the core flavours of pear, apple, apricot pit, and white peach are pleasant, and the acidity is attractive. This made me think Fino, and I'd drink it with tapas. (RP)

Red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Marqués de Murrieta Ygay Reserva 2002
DOC Rioja $31.95 (982322)
This wine is usually a blend of 90% Tempranillo with a small amount of Mazuelo and even less Garnacha. It shows an expressive nose of spice and red cherry then delivers a layered and lovely mélange of robust flavours with black currant and cherry compote to the fore, along with hints of spice box and oak. It's well balanced and could be drunk after a two hour decant or taken with a chunk of aged cheddar or red meat grilled medium-rare. This wine is known for its longevity. Drink now to 2015. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Montecillo Gran Reserva 1998
DOC Rioja $29.95 (239277)
Almost ten years old, (by Gran Reserva regulation it was aged a minimum 2 years in oak and then bottle until December of year five before release from the winery) it's beginning to show brick-coloured tones and some interesting aromas of leather and cedar that often develop with bottle age. The flavours are mellow and varied-chocolate, tangy red cherry and red licorice predominate. The finish is medium in length and fruity, but quite restrained. I recommend drinking now and over the next three or four years with lamb daube or osso bucco. (VH)

**** drink or cellar
Muga Reserva Selección Especial 2003
DOC Rioja $40.95 (921536)
From the blistering hot '03 vintage, this is quite plush and fruity. Look for loads of cherry and currant flavours underpinned by notes of mocha and black licorice. Medium bodied, it delivers a warm and fruity finish with good acidity to keep it from jammy and some oaky notes for interest. The tannins are almost imperceptible. This is drinking well now and will until 2012 or so. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Roda Reserva 2002
DOC Rioja $47.95 (664557)
This is a gargantuan wine-a meal in itself. And yet, there's deft balance and even a touch of elegance. Sweet and concentrated red berry, cassis and currant flavours explode on the palate while a balancing spine of acidity keeps it from becoming just another fruit bomb. Ripe tannins, providing good structure and lovely texture, round out the package. The finish is quite stunning, really just more of the same, but stunning and lengthy. You won't see much change from a fifty, but you won't find many better wines for less. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Emilio Moro Vino Rojo 2004
DO Ribera del Duero $32.95 (013987)
Look for a lifted nose of black berry, oak and smoke before it shifts into overdrive with a robust and layered cornucopia of sweet (14.5% alcohol) flavours-dark chocolate, bramble berry, sweet blueberry, and creosote among them. This Tempranillo also has perceptible tannins, especially on the drying, but still fruit-forward, finish. Drink now to 2015-if now, try after a three hour decant. (VH)

**** drink now
Finca Sobreño Crianza 2003
DO Toro $19.95 (040360)
You'll enjoy the mélange of expressive aromas and flavours-tangy red cherry, licorice, tar and black currant-as they deliver a delicious medium-bodied treat. It's balanced nicely with smooth and round tannins and just enough zing for interest. It finishes off with spicy cherry flavours. Look for a tomato-based dish for a pairing, like lasagna, pizza or spicy meatloaf. (VH)

White

**** drink now
Julian Chivite Gran Feudo Chardonnay 2006
DO Navarra $12.95 (129767)
With so many Chardonnays available, it's a pleasure to taste one that has so many good qualities. The first thing that struck me was the good balance. This has solid but not in-your-face fruit flavours of peach and apple, with tropical notes, and very attractive acidity. It's smooth textured, has good weight and finish, and it's very well priced. Buy a few bottles and serve them with grilled white fish. (RP)

Northwest

White

**** drink now
Martin Códax Burgáns Albariño 2006
DO Rìas Baixas $17.95 (945063)
Whenever it's released, this is a popular wine-and deservedly so. It has lovely aromas of peach and apricot-perhaps not as aromatic as the last vintage, but lovely nevertheless. The aromas are picked up in the flavours and amplified, and they're complemented by a good dose of acidity. This is a natural for grilled, spicy seafood, and it goes well with sushi, too. (RP)

Catalonia

Red

****1/2 drink or cellar
Celler Piñol Sacra Natura 2005
DO Terra Alta $21.95 (030171)
We're seeing more wineries turn to organic practices (see my article in the Summer 2007 issue of Vines) and the results of some are quite outstanding. This red is robust and concentrated, delivering layers of dark chocolate, ripe black cherry and hints of toasty, spicy notes. It's medium bodied, fruit-forward and with good grip from noticeable tannins. Look for a lengthy finish with bramble berry and zesty spice to the fore. Drink now with medium-rare grilled red meat and on to 2011. It's excellent value. (VH)

Levante and Meseta

Red

****1/2 drink now
Bodegas Luzón Altos de Luzón Vino Rojo 2004
DO Jumilla $27.95 (685214)
For decades Jumilla, and the surrounding regions, produced a sea of red plonk, but they now fashion fine table wines from arid, almost inhospitable scrubland. This is gorgeous. Expect aromas of red berry fruit, tobacco and notes of mint followed by a glorious array of quite tangy flavours including spicy dried cranberry, creosote, sour cherry and earthy notes. It's well balanced and finishes with some sweet black fruit flavours. There's enough tannin to provide structure, but not to interfere with drinking this now. Give it a go with spicy, smoked and bar b qued back ribs. (VH)

Andalucia

Sherry

****1/2 drink now
Emilio Lustau Don Nuño Solera Reserva Dry Oloroso
DO Jerez $14.95 375 mL (043612)
(Previously reviewed in Winecurrent - tasted then from a 750 ml bottle) An extremely powerful nose of toasted hazelnuts and burnt sugar roar from the glass of this bone dry, dark amber gem. Oloroso sherries have a bit more brandy added, this is 20% alc., than some other styles, inhibiting the protective flor that might develop, causing them to oxidize and develop into dark coloured, very aromatic offerings. The flavour profile includes baking chocolate and concentrated nutty notes. This would pair beautifully with smoked duck breasts. Serve at room temperature. (VH)

Canada: white

****1/2 drink or cellar
Flat Rock Cellars Riesling 2006
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $16.95
This is a quite stunning Riesling, delicious in flavours and vibrant in texture. Look for lovely aromas and flavours of peach and tropical fruit with lime and grapefruit-dominant acidity. It's off-dry and finely balanced with the style and character of a classic. Drink it with spicy appetizers or Asian dishes. (RP)

California: white

***1/2 drink now
Santa Barbara Winery Chardonnay 2005
Santa Barbara County $17.95 (989152)
Look for apple pie spice aromas then flavours of spicy peach and pear on this medium- to full-bodied Chardonnay. There is loads of zest for balance and a gorgeously-textured, almost creamy, mouth feel. It finishes quite citrussy with a zesty lime bite. This would pair well with pan-fried trout under a generous squeeze of fresh lemon. (VH)

****1/2 drink now
Toasted Head Viognier 2005
Dunnigan Hills $18.95 (37218)
This is a really lovely Viognier. It's medium weight with smooth texture, and it delivers a mouthful of attractive typicity. Look for tropical fruit (mango, papaya) along with ripe sweet peach, all offset by a warm spiciness that hints at white pepper. Well balanced (and well priced), it goes well with garlic shrimp and with spicy sushi. (RP)

California: red

**** drink or cellar
Avalon Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Napa Valley $24.95 (684399)
This really delivers on everything. It offers all the concentrated dark fruit and berry flavours you'd expect of a Napa Cab, but is stylish in its complexity, structure and texture. The tannins are firm but quite manageable, and it's terrific with full-flavoured red meat, like steak and lamb chops. (RP)

**** drink now
Beringer Third Century Pinot Noir 2005
Central Coast $23.95 (043786)
Lifted aromas of black plum, spice and oak abound in this light- to medium-bodied classy red. Oodles of flavour here-sweet black cherry, blueberry spiced cranberry-and excellent structure from ripe tannins and deft balance supplied by a moderating zest. The finish is warm (13.8% alcohol) and redolent of ripe cherry underpinned with pleasant earthy notes. Good to go now and nicely paired with roast duck breasts. There's good value here. (VH)

***1/2 drink now
Blackstone Zinfandel 2005
California $21.95 (026427)
This is a crowd-pleaser with fruit-forward and concentrated flavours. It's medium bodied and opens with aromas of raspberry jam along with earthy and spicy notes. The flavours include bramble berry and sweet black cherry with enough zest to provide balance. It finishes with a minty, medicinal cherry flavour and ripe tannins for structure. This is looking for burgers, sausages and a warm summer afternoon. (VH)

***** drink or cellar
Clos du Bois Reserve Merlot 2003
Alexander Valley $29.95 (34900)
This is a gorgeous Merlot that will have you sitting back in wonder as you savour the first mouthful. You'll pick up swirling flavours of black plum, cherry and berries, along with notes of chocolate, toastiness, spice and herbs. There's a good seam of acidity to keep the lush fruitiness in check and the tannins are sweet and ripe. What more could you want? Maybe a hunk of red meat, grilled medium-rare. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Landmark 'Steel Plow' Syrah 2005
Sonoma County $39.95 (38141)
Look for luscious New World Syrah flavours here: rich, concentrated dark cherry and berries, coffee, chocolate, spiciness?. The texture is plush and juicy and the sweet flavours seem to swirl in your mouth. It's well balanced by a decent line of acidity, and finishes long. It's a natural for a well-seasoned rack of lamb. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Raymond Estates 'R Collection' Merlot 2004
California $23.95 (38059)
Stylish and full of flavour, this first strikes you with the richness of its fruit. The intense dark cherry and berry flavours are there on the attack, and the second wave brings in the coffee, chocolate and spiciness. It's medium bodied, softly tannic, and smooth textured. Drink it with full-flavoured, slightly spicy dishes, like well-seasoned barbecued red meats. (RP)

****1/2 drink now
St. Supery Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
Napa Valley $35.95 (423822)
The 2002 vintage in Napa was excellent, and it shows in this offering from one of the Valley's premium producers. Expect flavours of black berries and fruit, with accents of spice, herbs, smoke and vanilla here. It's smooth textured with sweet, drinkable tannins, and it's just the wine for a grilled beef tenderloin. (RP)

Argentina: white

****1/2 two glasses drink now
Del Fin Del Mundo Chardonnay Reserva 2005
Patagonia $12.95 (694588)
We both thought this wine offered exceptional value, earning its final half star rating on price. The wine is a delicious mouthful of tropical fruit flavours-melon and pineapple-along with peach and nectarine. It has zesty citrus flavours on the finish (adding balance) and a satin texture on its medium-bodied frame. Don't hesitate to pick up a few. (VH)

**** drink now
Pulenta Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Alto Agrelo, Mendoza $14.95 (037119)
South America is certainly the place to look for value wines and here's another one to consider. The pungent aromas are quite expressive-grassy, green nettles and passion fruit. Expect white grapefruit, lemon-lime and ripe pit fruit flavours on the palate while the finish is quite zesty with more citrussy notes. This really comes into its own when paired with food, especially goat cheese, seafood drizzled with fresh lemon, or seafood ceviche. (VH)

Chile: white

**** drink now
Miguel Torres Santa Digna Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Curicó Valley $12.95 (177444)
There isn't a lot to choose between this and the Pulenta Sauvignon Blanc, both are lovely, except this is a bit more aromatic. Look for aromas of grass, nettles, pit fruit and citrus plus notes of mixed herbs and spice. You'll find oodles of zesty citrus and mineral flavours on the finish along with lemon-lime keeping it clean, dry and refreshing. This is another wine that's worthy of a multiple purchase. (VH)

Chile: red

**** drink now
Viña Ramirana Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Colchagua Valley $14.95 (041467)
This highlights Chile's expertise and further potential in producing fairly-priced, full-flavoured Cab from this cooler-climate region. Look for subtle aromas of red berry fruit and mint then a lovely sensation as sweet cassis (14% alcohol), minty chocolate and earthy flavours wash over your palate. Not overdone, this is well balanced and well structured with ripe, fine-grained tannins and the perfect amount of zest for interest and a dry clean finish. This offers very good value. (VH)

Australia: white

**** drink now
First Creek Verdelho 2006
Hunter Valley, New South Wales $16.95 (037358)
Verdelho was first planted in the Hunter over 100 years ago, but used mainly as a blending grape until the mid-1990s. This has lovely aromas of grass and honey then springs forward with gorgeous fruit flavours of melon, pineapple and nectarine. It's medium bodied and provides good balance with its moderating acidity. It finishes dry and citrussy making it a natural accompaniment with pan-fried freshwater fish. (VH)

Australia: red

**** drink now
Juniper Crossing Shiraz 2003
Margaret River, Western Australia $18.95 (034231)
This is ripe, round and ready to drink. You'll find oak, toast and currant aromas. Warm sweet flavours-juicy and black cherry, black currant compote-compete for your attention in this medium-bodied, fully-textured crowd pleaser. The finish is lengthy and delivers more of those sweet berry flavours, but with enough acidity to moderate. This is quite lovely on its own served at a cool cellar temperature. (VH)

****1/2 drink or cellar two glasses
Langmeil 'Blacksmith' Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Barossa Valley $22.95 (644039)
Vic and I loved this beautiful Cabernet Sauvignon. It delivers massive complexity, and you can amuse yourself picking out flavours for as long as it takes to finish the bottle. The fruit is all black currant, black berry, and cherry, and you'll find spice, mint, chocolate, coffee and more. Full bodied with firm tannins, it demands a meaty partner, so pair it off with well-seasoned beef, lamb or game. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Pirramimma Petit Verdot 2004
McLaren Vale, South Australia $21.95 (986752)
This was fashioned from 20 year old vines in an excellent vintage by the winery that planted the first vines, and is now the largest vintner, of Petit Verdot in Australia. Mulberry and spice on the nose, this medium-bodied gem delivers a huge mouthful of flavour-currants, black licorice, sweet juicy berry fruit and spice. The finish is lengthy and luxurious with more spice and dark berry fruit to the fore. It's very well balanced and deserves a place on your table and in your cellar. Drink now to 2012. (VH)

**** drink now
Yalumba Bush Vine Grenache 2006
Barossa Valley, South Australia $19.95 (531228)
Seventy year old gnarly bush vines and 2-4 years aging in old French hogsheads coalesce to fashion another outstanding effort from Yalumba. Expect aromas and sweet flavours of red berry fruit, spice and mocha in this medium-bodied and tangy red. The expressive warm finish (14.5% alcohol) of red currant, spicy cherry and generous dollops of zesty acidity mark this a lovely food wine. Pair with spicy bar b qued ribs. (VH)

New Zealand: red

**** drink or cellar
Oyster Bay Pinot Noir 2006
Marlborough, South Island $25.95 (590414)
You're probably more familiar with this label via their Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc as both are Vintages Essentials. However, this gorgeously-textured Pinot rates highly on its own. Aromas of toast and black plum are evident while the flavour profile is a lovely mélange of fruit-currant, cranberry and spicy black plum-along with a ladle of tanginess for interest and balance. The medium finish layers on some tangy black cherry flavours as well, leaving it dry and clean. (VH)

South Africa: red

**** drink or cellar
Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2006
WO Coastal Region $14.95 (595280)
This is a striking Syrah in a definite New World style, which makes you wonder why they decided to call it "Syrah," rather than Shiraz as nearly all other South African wines from this grape variety are. No quibble about the quality, though. It's got quality fruit all through, with a slightly rustic, very attractive texture. Medium weight and nicely balanced, it has manageable tannins, and it goes very well with grilled lamb. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Serengeti Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2005
WO Coastal Region $15.95 (37580)
This is a very well-priced Cab Merlot that's great for barbecues, whether you're serving sausages, burgers, lamb or beef. The dark berry and plum flavours are accented by good spiciness, and there's a slight rusticity to the texture, which adds to its attractiveness in my book. Medium bodied and with a nice seam of acidity, it's very good value and worth buying a few of. (RP)

France: red

Bordeaux

****1/2 two glasses drink now
Château Cabaron 2003
AOC Bordeaux $22.95 (035600)
Rod and I were both impressed with the intrinsic quality of the wine as well as the price. It's rich, concentrated and powerful. Look for ripe, juicy black fruit-plum, cherry and currant-along with notes of toast and spice, all underpinned by ripe tannin. The tannins give structure and allow for short term cellaring, but don't interfere with the early drinking nature of this wine. The finish is lengthy, warm (14% alcohol) and luxurious. This is most certainly worthy of a multiple purchase. (VH)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Château Coucy 2003
AOC Montagne Saint-Émilion $28.95 (046516)
This is a quite zesty offering, rather than the more common fruit-forward reds from the unusually hot '03 vintage. It's light to medium bodied and delivers spicy, mineral, black currant flavours and a generous ladle of acidity. This food-friendly wine would be very pleased paired with a tomato-based dish like chicken cacciatore. (VH)

***1/2 cellar
Vieux Château Landon 2003
AOC Médoc, Cru Bourgeois $31.95 (035535)
This will reward a couple of years in the cellar, drinking well from 2009 to 2012. Look for sweet black juicy fruit-plum and raspberry-along with oodles of spice. You'll find grippy tannins, a long warm finish and good moderating zest for balance. Gourmet tomato-based pizza or lasagna would be a nice pairing here. (VH)

Beaujolias

***1/2 drink or cellar
Monternot Moulin à Vent les Caves 2005
AOC Beaujolais, Grande Exception $19.95 (046870)
Look for a typical Gamay nose-grapey, cherry and floral (lilac)-and a lovely mouthful of black cherry and mixed spice flavours from this medium-bodied red. There are quite apparent grippy tannins and this will reward a couple of years' patient cellaring. If you can't wait, seek out a piece of red meat, grilled medium rare, to enjoy it with. The finish is fruity and lengthy. (VH)

Burgundy

**** cellar
Domaine Parent Ladoix 'La Corvée' 2005
AOC Bourgogne 1er Cru $39.95 (41079)
This is a lively Burgundy with vibrant red cherry flavours dominant and some spiciness in the background. The texture is rich and quite generous. It's medium bodied and dry, with a fairly firm tannic grip that leads me to suggest cellaring for two or three years before starting to drink it. When you're ready, drink it with seared duck breasts. (RP)

Italy: red

**** drink now
Planeta 'La Segreta' Rosso 2005
IGT Sicilia $15.95 (936773)
This is a well-made, straightforward blend (Nero d'Avola, Merlot, Syrah) that delivers good drinking at a very good price. It has a little complexity, but it's essentially a fruit-forward number that features dark fruit and berries with a good touch of spice. Dry, with decent, drinkable tannins, it goes well with grilled red meats. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Colognole Chianti Rufina 2003
DOCG Chianti Rufina $16.95
Expect a well-structured and quite delicious Chianti at a quite exceptional price. The fruit is solid from front to back and it offers a smooth texture with ripe tannins. It's drinking now, but I would hold it another year or so to get the best from it, then drink it over the following three or four years. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Maculan Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
IGT Veneto $14.95 (987701)
This is a quite substantial Cabernet Sauvignon that delivers layers of bold, dark fruit (crushed blackberry, cherry to the fore) with spicy notes. At its core is a seam of real fruit ripeness, nicely complemented by lively acidity that makes this an excellent partner for rich meat dishes. (RP)

Upstream on Winecurrent

Vintages Release September 1, 2007

****1/2 drink or cellar
Margrain 'River's Edge' Pinot Noir 2004
Martinborough, New Zealand $TBA (684258)
Martinborough Pinot Noirs are winning wide acclaim, and it's not surprising with wines of this quality. It's an elegant Pinot Noir that over-delivers on just about everything. The dark cherry-dominant flavours are multi-faceted, with swirling pepper and herbal notes finely balanced by the acidity. It has a texture that invites food, good tannins that make themselves felt but not unwelcome, and a long herbal finish. Classy and classic, gutsy and elegant, it's quite stunning. Enjoy it with grilled chicken topped with grilled shiitake mushrooms. (RP)

Vintages Release October 27, 2007

**** drink or cellar
Penfolds Bin 28 'Kalimna' Shiraz 2004
South Australia $29.95 (422782)
This is a full-bodied, mouth-filling, fruit-forward number with loads of complexity in the layered fruit aromas and flavours. Look for black fruit and berries with spice, pepper and herbal notes, along with a hint of chocolate and vanilla. The finish is long, with the herbs and spice playing a prominent role. The tannins are ripe and gripping, and manageable now, but you can safely hold this another five or six years. (RP)

Vintages release November 24, 2007

****1/2 drink or cellar
Penfolds Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
South Australia $29.95 (414987)
Penfolds Chief Winemaker, Peter Gago, says that this wine is "proactively made to be a varietally expressive Cabernet." It's 100% Cabernet Sauvignon-the blending that takes place is of components drawn from different vineyards, not from different varieties. What you get from the 2004 effort is excellent structure and a taut texture, with flavours of cassis, black cherry and mulberry, and an array of spices. The tannins are ripe and sweet and you can drink this now or hold it another ten or more years. (RP)

Vintages release December 8, 2007

***** drink or cellar
Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz 2004
South Australia $34.95 (309625)
Penfolds Chief Winemaker, Peter Gago, declares that Bin 389 is his favourite within the Penfolds' line-up, which includes the winery's iconic Grange Shiraz. It is, he says, "the archetypal Australian red," and it's even aged in barrels made of American oak but assembled at Penfolds' own cooperage. At 53% Cabernet Sauvignon and 47% Shiraz, the 2004 blend is more evenly balanced than many; the Cabernet component has run above 80% in some vintages. As Gago says, Bin 389 "is not made to a formula, but made to a style." Look for huge complexity and gorgeous fruit here, with ripe black plum and cherry and crushed black berries. You'll find accents of black pepper, chocolate and mocha. The tannins are gripping, and this will hold ten years, but you can drink it now. (RP)

Vintages "Classics" Catalogue, November 2007

***** drink or cellar
Penfolds 'Yattarna' Chardonnay 2004
Henty, Western Victoria $90.00 (558643)
This is a stunning Chardonnay that's a total pleasure to drink. There's a hint of green to it, but no trace of greenness in the aromas and flavours. What you get is marvelous complexity, starting with flavours that are yellow peach, ripe nectarine and sweet apple and pear. There's a streak of minerality, some pungency from the lees, and vibrant lime acidity. It's quite taut in structure with a lovely brisk mouthfeel. Winemaker Peter Gago says that Yattarna, which was conceived as a white to go with Grange, "is still on probation," and that's appropriate for a wine whose name means "little by little." Still, there's a bit of unnecessary modesty here. Yattarna is consistently fine, and even though it varies each year, it's established itself as one of the great New World Chardonnays. (RP)

Vintages "Classics" Catalogue, November 2007

****1/2 drink or cellar
Penfolds 'RWT' Shiraz 2004
Barossa Valley $125.00 (564278)
'RWT' stands for 'Red Winemaking Trial', a project that began in 1995 and produced its first vintage in 1997. It's no longer a trial (except in so far as every vintage presents its individual challenges and opportunities), but the name remains. Look for lifted aromas of sweet dark cherry and plum, with notes of spicy black pepper. In the mouth it's generous and quite plush, with the aromas replaying delightfully. The tannins are sweet and firm and you can expect this wine to drink beautifully as it evolves over the next 10, 12 or more years. (RP)

Vintages "Classics" Catalogue, November 2007

****1/2
Penfolds Bin 95 'Grange' 2002
Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale $320.00 (336388)
Grange is Australia's icon wine, and older vintages command prices in the thousands of dollars. It's made to a style, and draws on the regions and vineyards the winemaker, Peter Gago (he's Grange's fourth winemaker since the brand began, in 1951), believes will produce the best Grange that vintage. The 2002 is 77.5% Barossa and 22.5% McLaren, and it's 99% Shiraz and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon. What you get is a truly elegant wine that delivers layered flavours of dark fruit and crushed dark berries, enhanced by notes of pepper, spice, chocolate, coffee bean. The effect is cumulative, as the layers pile on, but nowhere are they overwhelming. The acidity is poised and the frontier between fruit and acid is as seamless as you'd want. The tannins are ripe and sweet and will hold it over the very long term. (RP)

Vintages Release March 29, 2008

****1/2 drink or cellar
Penfolds Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz 2004
Coonawarra $29.95 (509919)
This is a medium-bodied, finely-structured Shiraz that offers lovely aromas of crushed black berries, black cherry, and black peppercorn with some floral notes. The fruit replays in the flavours, where they're joined by good peppery spiciness and some herbal accents. All this finds an excellent counterweight in a seam of clean acidity. The tannins are sweet and ripe, and drinking now, but they'll hold the wine another five to eight years. The total effect is stylish and restrained, compared to the fruit-forward styles (including Penfolds' own Bin 28 Shiraz, which is reviewed above). Winemaker Peter Gago notes that the U.K. market prefers the bigger and fuller Bin 28, while the trend in the U.S. is toward this wine. (RP)

Downstream on Winecurrent

These three wines should have been reviewed in the newsletter for the July 7 release. Because they are still widely available in Vintages, we are adding them now.

****1/2 drink or cellar
Chapel Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
McLaren Vale/Coonawarra (Australia) $17.95 (965830
This 100% Cab (92% from McLaren Vale) is beautifully textured and has wonderful fruit complexity. Dominated by black berry flavours, it's interwoven with layers of sweet spice, black plum and cherry and a hint of gaminess. Medium-bodied and nicely-balanced, this is a natural for lamb. (RP)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Chapel Hill Shiraz-Grenache 2005
McLaren Vale (Australia) $18.95 (37168)
This is a rich, plush blend that nicely shows the best of the two component varieties: the intense fruitiness of the Shiraz and the slightly gritty texture and fruit sweetness of the Grenache. They're a powerful and delicious combination here. Look for medium weight, light tannins and a nice line of acidity, all completed by a long and finely-flavoured finish. Serve it with a well-herbed rack of lamb, grilled medium-rare. (RP)

**** drink now
Hidalgo Manzanilla La Gitana
DO Jerez y Manzanilla-Sanlúcar de Barrameda (Spain) $12.95 500 mL (745448)
The expressive nose on this fully-textured Sherry is pure 'rancio'-a term almost defying description, but think of dried, spicy fruit, over-ripe cantaloupe and burnt sugar-once smelled, never to be forgotten. This is dry, fully textured and offers salty and zesty flavours of nuts, figs and dried fruit. The finish is balanced, warm and lengthy. Serve chilled with sea food, especially briny shrimp. (VH)

New in the LCBO

Look for these new wines, or new vintages of continuing wines, in the General List of the LCBO.

California

**** drink now
Black Box Wines Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Paso Robles $13.95 (38331) 1 Litre Tetra Prisma
This is ultra-smooth, ready to drink, warm and quite a bargain-it's less than $10.50 per standard 750 ml bottle-earning its final half star on value. It delivers black cherry, mint and black olive aromas while on the palate it's spicy, earthy with pleasant flavours of sweet (13.5% alcohol) red cherry and coffee notes. Look for deft balance, a zesty, fruity finish plus ripe tannins for structure. It's a step above most at this price. (VH)

Italy

**** drink now
Villa Antinori 2003
IGT Toscana $24.10 (53876)
This Sangiovese from Tuscany is notable for aromas and flavours of dark fruit and a lot of spicy complexity. It has good tannic grip and a lengthy finish. It's quite stylish and goes well with grilled lamb and other flavourful red meat dishes. (RP)

Portugal

***1/2 drink now
Aliança Foral Reserva 2005
DO Douro $8.25 (239046)
A blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca and Tinta Barroca, this well-priced Portuguese red is a bit short on aromas but offers solid flavours of sweet red cherries and spice. It's lightly tannic and goes well with foods such as pizza, burgers and not-too-spicy grilled sausages. (RP)

Spain

***1/2 drink now
Finca Antigua Tempranillo 2004
DO La Mancha $12.95 (613042)
This is a quite complex Spanish red that delivers a wide range of aromas and flavours. Look for sweet cherry and berry with spicy and earthy notes. It goes well with well-herbed grilled chicken and with grilled lamb chops. (RP)

New in restaurants

**** drink now
Tawse Winery Cabernet Franc 2004
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $29.00
This is a gorgeously-textured gem with full, ripe fruit flavours-spicy black cherry, black currant, along with hints of chocolate. There are none of the green notes often found in cool climate Cab Franc. This is medium to full bodied, has a perceptible, but acceptable tannin structure and delivers a well-balanced medium-length finish. I had mine at wine-friendly domus café in Ottawa. You can have yours there, too, or order by the case from www.tawsewinery.ca. (VH)

**** drink now
Domiciano De Barrancas 'Cosecha Nocturna' Malbec 2005
Mendoza, Argentina $14.50
A recent bronze medal winner at the 'Wines of Argentina' awards, this medium- to full-bodied red offers lovely aromas of spice, mulberry and coffee. Look for a mélange of black fruit flavours-cherry, plum and raspberry. It's well balanced with ripe, fine-grained tannins and moderating zest. It finishes lengthy, warm (14% alcohol) and spicy. It's well priced. Order by the case from Bokke Inc. This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. . (VH)

Cheers, Vic and Rod

Rating System

We use the following symbols when rating wines:

5 starsWines achieving nirvana
4 stars Wines of excellence
3 stars Wines well worth trying
2  stars Wines below average, but drinkable
1 star Wines better avoided, unless desperate
half star Represents a half star
2 glassesWe both agree —a brilliant wine!
drink nowDrink now and over the next 2 years
drink or cellarDrink now and over the next 5 years
cellarPlace in cellar