Winecurrent
April 8, 2016 Newsletter

As promised: Due to the delayed tasting dates at the LCBO, here are reviews from the most recent April 2 release along with many other available wines shown immediately after the Vintages release wines in the following newsletter. Enjoy!

Newsletter highlights include:

  • Exceptional-value wine Exceptional Value!  – 8 of 76 wines reviewed meet the strict quality-price guidelines; all are highly recommended and all are easily identified throughout the newsletter with 5 of the 8 found after the Vintages Release wines. What strict guidelines? Click here.
  • 5-star Wine – 2 wines rang the 5-star bell – Burrowing Owl Syrah 2013 @ $40.95 found under Okanagan Valley: Red Wine and Azienda Agricola S. G. Arcangelo ‘Cuccuvaia’ 2009 @ $47.85 found under New in Private Order.
  • Susan Selects – Burrowing Owl Syrah 2013 @ $40.95 with 5 stars found under Okanagan Valley: Red Wine; Château Haut Philippon Entre-deux-Mers 2014 with 4 stars @ $14.95 under France: White Wine; Viña Vilano Crianza 2011 with 4½ stars @ $21.95 under Spain: Red Wine. 
  • Vic Picks – Iris Vineyards Pinot Gris 2013 @ $19.95 with 4½ stars under Oregon: White Wine; Ravenswood ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2014 @ $19.95 with 4½ stars under California: Red Wine; Stoneleigh ‘Latitude’ Sauvignon Blanc 2015 @ $21.95 with 4½ stars under New Zealand: White Wine. 

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, updated every 24 hours, some stores post earlier. LCBO Portfolio wines (not Vintages) should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. However, it’s always best to phone first.

Vintages Release: April 2, 2016

Fortified Wine: Port

****1/2 drink or cellar
Dow’s ‘Quinta Do Bomfim’ Vintage Port 2004
DOP Porto, Portugal $29.95 (8193) 375 mL 20.0% alcohol
Bomfim is one of the finest single vineyards in the entire Port region receiving the highest ‘A’ classification in the regulated system. This is brawny, well sculpted and a tour de force with aromas of piquant spice and warm spirits introducing an intense gusher spice cake and bramble berry and sweet black berry nectar. It coats the palate with sweet black berry and persists, with great focus and charm, through the lengthy lip-smacking finish. Good to go now, decanted, alongside Stilton or dark chocolate dessert and on to 2030—in this 375 mL format. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

**** drink now
Marques de Gelida ‘Exclusive Brut Gran Reserva’ Cava 2010
DO Penedès, Spain $19.95 (441956) 11.5% alcohol
From a winery owned by six families whose roots go back centuries in the Penedès, this gem is produced Méthode Champenoise on a dry-farmed estate. This is a vintage, medium-bodied Cava showcasing classic fruit of the region—Xarel-lo, Macabeo—blended with Chardonnay and aged 2½ years in bottle, it proffers subtle aromas of flaky butter pastry, white flowers, orchard fruit, and a whiff of citrus. It’s characterized by bracing acidity, a fresh yet satiny texture and a notable cleansing mousse. The flavours of pear/apple tart and tangy citrus replay on the palate and through the clean, dry, spirited finish. Good value. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

***1/2 drink now Oh Canada!
Cave Spring ‘Estate Bottled’ Chardonnay Musqué 2014
VQA Beamsville Bench $16.95 (246579) 13.5% alcohol
There’s the honeyed sweetness of melon on the nose of this unique Chardonnay clone—known for its perfumed character—mingling with floral notes and hints of ripe stone fruit. Off-dry, light-mid weight, the wine is fruity and fresh, the floral character in evidence on the palate, fine acidity harmonizing with the sweet fruit, a hint of spice tantalizing. Tasty and easy drinking, you’ll enjoy this with crab cakes or lobster ravioli in a cream sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now Oh Canada!
Featherstone Four Feathers 2015
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (341586) 12.5% alcohol
This blend of four noble white varieties brings to the fore some of the unique characteristics of each, including the floral character of Gewürztraminer and Riesling, the ripe orchard fruit of Chardonnay, and the freshness of Sauvignon Blanc. Just off dry, notes of peach, melon, citrus zest and spice are framed by fine acidity, while residual sweetness manifests on the fresh, fruity finish. Serve this value-packed beauty with pan-fried white fish. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Riesling 2012

VQA Short Hills Bench $17.95 (557165) 11.5% alcohol

Pale straw, this wine offers lovely mineral notes mingling with orchard fruit and citrus. Dry, medium bodied, dashing clean acidity underlines the flavours of lime zest, ripe apple and pear. The fine silky texture and crisp refreshing finish make it a must-have wine and a great choice for ham or turkey. Pick up a few bottles. (Susan Desjardins)

*** drink now Oh Canada!
Tzafona Cellars ‘Cold Climate’ Riesling 2014
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (445569) 12.0% alcohol
The opening vintage of this ‘Kosher-for-Passover’ Riesling offers subdued aromas of orchard fruit, citrus and mineral. Off dry, light-medium bodied, the flavours are true to the nose, wrapping around a core of clean acidity. The mineral quality persists through the mid-length finish. Serve with seafood or soup. (Susan Desjardins)

Okanagan Valley: White Wine

**** drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Gray Monk Gewürztraminer 2014
VQA Okanagan Valley $19.95 (321588) 13.0% alcohol
Intertwining aromas of rosewater, juicy peach and green grapes, along with a nuance of spice, this off-dry, mid-weight wine has a lovely clean texture. There’s a zing of fresh-grated ginger on the palate, along with tasty flavours of lime, melon and pear. With a touch of bitterness paired to ripe fruitiness on the persistent finish, this is a great match for spiced Asian dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Coyote’s Run ‘Red Paw Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2013
VQA Four Mile Creek $24.95 (79228) 14.0% alcohol
Semi-transparent ruby, this classic cool-climate Pinot Noir opens with aromas of red fruit, cedar, earth and a whiff of vanilla. Dry, medium-bodied, it’s vibrant and savoury, tangy red fruit flavours of cranberry, red cherry and pomegranate underlain with a mineral quality and hints of tomato leaf, dusted with a touch of spice. The racy verve of bright acidity delivers a long, lively finish. Serve with venison or duck. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now Oh Canada!
G. Marquis ‘The Silver Line – Epic’ 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (310367) 13.9% alcohol
From an epic Niagara vintage, this blend of Merlot and the Cabernets, aged 18 months in French oak, has a complex, evolved nose—notions of dried fruit layered on hints of tapenade and cedar, cassis and strawberry jam. Medium-full bodied, it’s round, velvety and flavourful, the ripe tannin and fine acidity in harmony with the fully ripened flavours of black fruit. Appealing savoury notes of dried herb, smoky toast and balsamic add complexity and persist through the finish. A wine you’ll enjoy contemplating on its own, it’ll also pair well with roast beef and Yorkshire pudding. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Nomad Wanderlust 2013
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $24.95 (451328) 13.5% alcohol
Semi-transparent, notes of spice testify to its aging in French oak while lifted berry aromas drift from the glass mingling with elusive floral notes. Ripe and round in texture and medium bodied, the wine’s supple tannin and fine acidity are an ideal counterpoint to the tasty cherry/berry fruit, a note of roasted red pepper adds an earthy vegetal quality. A pleasing, approachable wine with a tasty savoury finish, you’ll enjoy serving it with roast meats and root vegetables. (Susan Desjardins)

Okanagan Valley: Red Wine

***** drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Burrowing Owl Syrah 2013
VQA Okanagan Valley $40.95 (73072) 14.5% alcohol
This opaque and inky red is a powerhouse pairing a well-defined, integrated structure with great intensity and depth of flavour. The panoply of aromas include bramble berry, spice, black licorice and dark-chocolate coated berries. Dry and full bodied, this maintains a fresh texture while well-integrated oak offers a touch of spice and attractive notes of mint and cracked pepper mingle with concentrated dark fruit flavours. Finishing with length and vigour, this wine is designed for cellaring although it pairs beautifully now with roast leg of lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

**** drink now
Clay Station ‘Unoaked’ Viognier 2014
Lodi $17.95 (25411) 13.5% alcohol
Baking spice, honey and tropical fruit aromas unveil a creamy-smooth, fleshy river of ripe peach and pear. This is fully textured with good weight and a lingering fruit-filled aftertaste replaying palate flavours with just enough acidity to clean it up nicely. Pour on its own as an aperitif or pair with baked ham or fruit flan. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Clos du Bois ‘Calcaire’ Chardonnay 2013
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County $29.95 (421941) 14.5% alcohol
This was barrel fermented and aged sur lie in French oak—it’s an exemplary California Chardonnay: fruit forward, great balance with unobtrusive, well-integrated oak. Aromas of apple, pear and minerality with wisps of vanilla introduce a persistent, mid-weight, gorgeously textured river of ripe apple, white nectarine and lemon curd bathing the palate infusing the crisp, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. With each sip as good or better than the previous, and as prices go for premium California Chardonnay, this is delicious and very good value. Give it a go with roast poultry. (Vic Harradine)

Oregon: White Wine

• The following wine is made from the white grape, Pinot Gris, an interesting variety as it’s a mutation of the black grape, Pinot Noir. With Pinot Noir in its DNA, it ripens multi hued, from grayish/blue all the way to deep blue with some grapes almost white and others brownish-pink. Take a white piece of paper and place it on a well-lit surface. Pour an ounce or so of the following Iris Vineyards Pinot Gris in a wine glass and tip it slightly toward, not over, the rim of the glass then look at the paper through the wine. You may be able to pick up its copper-pink hue. As this wine, and most white wine, is fermented with little or no contact with grape skins—the colour of wine is derived from the skins—there’s only a slight hue to this fabulous wine.

****1/2 drink now
Iris Vineyards Pinot Gris 2013
Oregon $19.95 (445726) 12.6% alcohol
This Gris offers a unique treat—low alcohol and not a splinter of oak—enjoy pure, delectable fruit flavour without adornment. Alluring aromas of buckwheat honey, ripe pear and flecks of minerality introduce a medium weight, creamy smooth, seamless wash of apple, pear and tangy lime cordial on the palate and lingering, lip-smacking aftertaste garnished with mandarin orange and peach skin. It’s great value, balanced on a pin and highly recommended. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Bridlewood Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Paso Robles $19.95 (449751) 13.0% alcohol
Deliciously fragrant, the ripeness of the fruit shines through mingling with attractive aromas of cedar, dried herbs and vanilla. Medium-full bodied, deftly structured with supple tannin and fresh acidity, this delivers the velvety texture of ripe fruit—cassis, blackberry and cherry—with notes of dark chocolate, baking spice and grilled herbs lingering through the well-defined dry finish. Balanced and plush, it’s a great match for rare-grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Kenwood ‘Jack London Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Sonoma Mountain $39.95 (944843) 14.5% alcohol
Dark chocolate, baking spice and minty aromas herald a full-bodied, fully textured, wash of palate-coating flavour with Black currant and juicy, dark Bing cherry to the fore. This has strong bones and is firmly structured with persistence and focus throughout. The lingering aftertaste reveals savoury herbs and notions of sweet vanilla. Aerate/decant for three hours serving with grilled red meat or pop corks 2018. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
MacMurray Pinot Noir 2013
Russian River Valley $26.95 (48207) 14.2% alcohol
Semi-transparent ruby, blended fruit from four vineyards in one of California’s cooler climates, this well-heeled mid-weight red showcases aromas of sweet crushed herbs and forest floor interwoven with bright red fruit, vanilla, and fragrant spice. The generous silky texture is fused to a clean, juicy spine of acidity, the layered flavours of red berries and black cherry accented with well-integrated notes of cinnamon toast. The appealing earthy quality lingers on the dry, round, flavourful finish. Crafted with finesse and depth, this’ll pair well with grilled beef fillet accented with roasted tomatoes and Portobello mushrooms. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ravenswood ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2014
Lodi $19.95 (942599) 14.5% alcohol
Sage and thyme aromas meld with dark berry fruit on the nose of this gorgeous, fruit- and spice-laden Zin. A fully textured wash of crowd-friendly, luscious dark fruit—bramble berry, plum and cherry—garnished with baking and peppery spice coat the palate infusing the balanced, juicy aftertaste. There’s a fine-grained tannin underpinning that’s easily ameliorated with a three-hour aeration/decant. Pour alongside barbecued back ribs mopped with spicy red sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

Sonoma County $22.95 (226944) 13.5% alcohol

This opens with a funky nose of earthy notes, tapenade and grilled herb aromas. It spills over the palate with a racy, mouth-watering wash of sour cherry and red currant garnished with spice, vanilla and savory bits. It’s medium bodied with good texture and a substantial finish garnished with good acidity and a lick of tannin—the tannin’s easily ameliorated with a three-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

• Yes, there is a California AVA (American Viticulture Area) named ‘Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara’. It’s the warmest AVA in Santa Barbara and the following wine from Star Lane is sourced from vineyards reported to be in the warmest and highest area of Happy Canyon.

****1/2 drink or cellar
Star Lane Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara $52.95 (101774) 14.1% alcohol
Rich and luscious with bold flavours and texture, this reverberates with ripe fruit, tangy acidity and explosive Wow factor—not for the faint-hearted. Expressive aromas of bramble berry, black Bing cherry and black plum robed in racy acidity and whiffs of cocoa and black licorice abound. It flows over the palate showering black plum compote, bramble berry jam, anise and toasty notes throughout. It finishes lengthy with replays. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Fabre Montmayou ‘Reserva’ Malbec 2013
Mendoza $18.95 (261867) 15.0% alcohol
Hand-harvested, 100% Malbec fruit was hand sorted twice, first by bunch, then grape by grape, fermented then aged one year in French oak. This is balanced and nicely structured with good purity of fruit and excellent aftertaste. Aromas and flavours of bramble berry and dark juicy cherry garnished with black licorice, dark chocolate, minty notes and baking spice fill the air and dazzle the palate. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and balanced by sweet ripe fruit and racy tang throughout. This offers very good value. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Emiliana ‘Coyam’ 2012
Colchagua Valley $29.95 (63891) 14.5% alcohol
Sandalwood, earthy notes and dark berry fruit on the nose, this dishes up a medium-plus bodied, delicious river of boysenberry and black cherry mingling with red currant on the palate. It showcases perfect balance, generous mouth feel, persistent purity of fruit and a supple tannin underpinning. The dry, lengthy finish and aftertaste layer on vanilla, espresso roast and mouth-watering tang. Stunningly good now, it’ll improve with another 12 months in bottle. Can’t wait? Aerate/decant a couple of hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Viña Tarapacá ‘Gran Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

Maipo Valley $17.95 (18721) 14.5% alcohol

On the nose, delightful aromas of minty notes mingle with aromas of cassis, cedar, chocolate and spice. Full bodied and velvety smooth, this rich dry wine displays a subtle underlying structure, ripe plummy black fruit flavours and the definite warmth of spice and pepper through the extended finish. Good value and one to enjoy with roast beef. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Jim Barry ‘The Lodge Hill’ Shiraz 2013
Clare Valley, South Australia $24.95 (998476) 14.0% alcohol
Legions of red wine-lovers anxiously await each release of this well-priced, Aussie Shiraz from cooler-climate Clare Valley—this won’t disappoint. It opens with aromas of red and black berry fruit, licorice, spice and grilled herbs. A balanced-on-a-pin, medium-plus bodied wash of ripe mulberry and black currant is joined by racy red currant on the palate along with peppery spice. It finishes dry and mouth watering-good. Good to go now, a two-hour aeration/decant amplifies its many attributes. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Piping Shrike Shiraz 2013
Barossa Valley, South Australia $18.95 (48504) 14.0% alcohol
Cedar, floral notes and blueberry aromas set the table for a medium-plus weight, nicely textured mouthful of Barossa Shiraz—mulberry jam, black currant and peppery spice bathe the palate. This crowd-friendly red is well balanced and shows no rough edges finishing with replays on the mid-length aftertaste. Pour with gourmet sausage, burgers or grilled lamb. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Thorn-Clarke ‘Shotfire’ Shiraz 2013
Barossa Valley, South Australia $21.95 (18796) 14.5% alcohol
Piquant/peppery spice and red cherry/berry fruit aromas announce a medium-weight, textured flow of palate-bathing flavour—red cherry and ripe mulberry mingling with savoury herbs, espresso roast and red licorice. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a balanced, lengthy aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

**** drink now
Momo Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (9167) 13.5% alcohol
An explosion of aromas—grassy nettles, lemon zest and lime joined by ripe peach—unfurl from this medium-bodied Sauvignon Blanc. There’s a laser-like beam of citrus acidity and flinty minerality mingling with racy passion fruit and fleshier ripe pit fruit skating across the palate inundating the crisp, mouth-watering finish. Pour with grilled calamari rings under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

• With 2015 the driest year for Marlborough in decades, many wines are now showing excellent quality and flavour concentration.

****1/2 drink now
Stoneleigh ‘Latitude’ Sauvignon Blanc 2015
Marlborough, South Island $21.95 (324228) 13.5% alcohol
This delivers a concentrated, nicely balanced, full palette of rich flavours and lip-smacking acidity. Floral notes and pit fruit aromas provide segue for a gusher of honeydew melon, white peach and pineapple robed in excellent citrus acidity on the palate and through the lengthy, refreshing, mouth-watering finish. Very fresh and lively, pour with all manner of fish, seafood or a green salad under crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: White Wine

• The following wine from Waterkloof is quite special. It was sourced from 30-year-old, dry-farmed bush vines from the prime WO Stellenbosch area on a site overlooking False Bay. Fruit was hand-harvested then whole-bunch pressed followed by 6-month fermentation in large barrel and tank using indigenous yeast then lightly filtered before bottling. In 2008 they made the decision to farm according to biodynamic principles and in 2015 they gained their biodynamic certification from Demeter.

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Waterkloof ‘Seriously cool’ Chenin Blanc 2014
WO Stellenbosch $16.95 (443382) 13.5% alcohol
Lifted, lively aromas of lanolin, honeysuckle and mango unleash a gusher of über-ripe pineapple with sugared and grilled red grapefruit spilling over the palate persisting through the monumentally long finish—complexity, elegance and pinpoint balance reign supreme. Wisps of honey, peel marmalade and nutty notes garnish the crisp, lip-smacking, lengthy aftertaste. Pick up six or more—it’s quite stunning. Kudos to winemaker, Nadia Barnard. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
The Chocolate Block 2013
WO Western Cape $39.95 (129353) 14.5% alcohol
This Boekenhoutskloof perennial favorite—the winery’s name is taken from the indigenous Cape beech tree—is a blended red of principally Syrah and it really delivers. Aromas of dark chocolate-coated cherry, kirsch, sweet red fruits and spiced rose seduce the nose, while the lovely balance of ripe tannins, lively acidity and bright cherry/berry fruit caresses the palate. Naturally, the tasty chocolate flavour reappears, mingling with spice and oaky notes and tantalizing the senses through the dry finish. Eminently ageable, this full-bodied wine is a great match for grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Austria: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Loimer Langenlois Grüner Veltliner 2014
DAC Kamptal $21.95 (142240) 12.0% alcohol
From one of the top Grüner sites and a winemaker formerly crowned as Austrian Winemaker of the Year, this sustainably farmed, pristine gem comes with impeccable credentials even at entry level. Sharp spice and minerality notes on the nose introduce a tension-filled, bracing line of acidity—lemon zest, lime and passion fruit. The long crisp finish is bone dry and über-refreshing. Pour and enjoy with freshly shucked oysters. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

**** drink now
Baron de Hoen ‘Reserve’ Riesling 2014
AOC Alsace $14.95 (446427) 12.0% alcohol
This is light on its feet and terrific value. Floral notes and honeydew melon aromas herald a lighter-styled Riesling with deft balance, good mouth feel and a tangy wash of lime cordial and lemon curd—crisp, clean and refreshing. Flavours persist through the finish as the lengthy aftertaste layers on wisps of green-apple skin. Pour with chicken paillard over egg noodles. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Château Haut Philippon Entre-deux-Mers 2014
AOC Entre-deux-Mers $14.95 (445171) 11.5% alcohol
Principally Sauvignon Blanc blended with Semillon and Muscadelle, this captivates with pungent aromas of passion fruit, citrus, nettles and a whiff of wet gravel. Bone dry, it’s tangy yet silky in texture, enlivening the palate with a rush of grapefruit and lemon zest, notions of fresh herbs and a touch of green apple skin. The vibrant, lip-smacking, long-lasting finish cleanses and refreshes. Serve with fresh-shucked oysters or filet of sole. This is very good value. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now
Domaine Millet Chablis 2014
AOC Chablis $26.95 (447193) 12.5% alcohol
Aromas of floral notes, tropical fruit and minerality meld on the nose of this complex, fabulous Chablis with its oodles of flavour and racy tang—sourced from 30-year-old Chardonnay vines and not a splinter of oak. A medium-weight, creamy-smooth river of ripe peach and pear framed by a solid line of lemony tang with a touch of white grapefruit race over the palate infusing the crisp, lip-smacking finish and lingering aftertaste. Try with Fillet of Trout w/Fennel - here’s the winery’s recipe. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Henri de Villamont ‘La Canée’ Auxey-Duresses 2012
AOC Auxey-Duresses $39.95 (445270) 13.0% alcohol
This has elegance and charm combining ripe fruit flavour with good acidity, overall balance and lip-smacking finish. Pit fruit, pineapple and spice box aromas precede a mid-weight, generously textured and balanced river of white peach, ripe pear and Meyer lemon bathing the palate robed in sweet vanilla, juicy tang and oodles of charm. It finishes with more of the same and is quite delicious. Pour with milk-marinated, pan-seared scallops. (Vic Harradine)

• Father, Bernard, and daughter, Veronique, are, respectively, viticulturist and winemaker for the following wine. Fruit—100% Melon de Bourgogne—was sourced from south-facing, 65-year-old vines from 70 hectares consisting of three prime sites near Nantais, France, This allows them to use the term, ‘Communal Cru terroir’, certifying high-quality fruit within this wine region.

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Grand Fief de la Cormeraie ‘Sur Lie’ Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2014
AOC Muscadet Sèvre et Maine $16.95 (81745) 12.0% alcohol
Lemon-lime, mineral notes and yeasty aromas go before a riveting line of lemon zest, peach skin and flinty/mineral notes streaking over the palate, tensile and mouth-watering. It’s medium bodied, crisp and clean with citrus, minerality and flecks of nectarine on the finish. Pour with fish and all manner of sea food. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Roland Tissier & Fils Sancerre 2014
AOC Sancerre $27.95 (108514) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of flint, minerality and grassy notes make way for an austere bracing stream of lemon curd and grapefruit pith making its way laser-like across the palate. The finish and aftertaste are replete with nerve, verve and racy acidity. A pairing with sushi, prawn ceviche or briny oysters would be divine. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Beau-Site 2009
AOC Saint-Estèphe $47.95 (967844) 13.5% alcohol
This is well balanced, fruit forward and absolutely delicious. Involved aromas of earthy/gamy notes, gilled herbs and cedar unleash a juicy, lively stream of black currant, raisin and peppery spice bathing the palate, medium bodied and nicely textured. It finishes in quite a blaze with loads of dark fruit, piquant spice and excellent acidity. It’s good to go now and pairs well with grilled rack of lamb, crown roast of pork or roast beef. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Maison Chanzy en Rosey Rully 2013
AOC Rully $26.95 (446153) 13.0% alcohol
Here’s a Burgundy, Pinot Noir with a price-quality balance tipped well in your favour. It’s tangy and spice packed with persistent purity of fruit and a long, long, mouth-watering aftertaste. Aromas of forest floor, red berry fruit and savory herbs herald a racy stream of red currant, cranberry and sour cherry robed in grilled herbs and piquant spice. It finishes lengthy, bone dry and lip-smacking good. Pour with grilled, smoked duck breasts. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Gérard Bertrand ‘Grand Terroir’ La Clape 2011

AOP La Clape, Coteaux de Languedoc $18.95 (370262) 14.0% alcohol 

This hand-picked southern France red blend—Syrah, Carignan, Mourvèdre—hails from one of the sunniest wine regions in France. Heady aromas of pipe tobacco, menthol and black currant leap from the glass. It’s mid-full weight with a smooth and mellow wash of tangy pie cherry framed by good acidity underpinned by a soft, fine-grained tannin structure. This really soars poured alongside pastitsio—here’s a recipe—or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine) 

**** drink or cellar
Brunel de la Gardine Crozes-Hermitage 2014
AOC Crozes-Hermitage $23.95 (339861) 13.0% alcohol
Toasty/oaky notes and roasted herb aromas dominate the nose of this medium-bodied, nicely textured Syrah. The palate’s treated to a flow of red fruit—pie cherry, cranberry and raspberry—with peppery spice framed by tangy acidity underpinned by a perceptible and acceptable tannin structure. Pour after a three-hour aeration/decant alongside braised lamb shanks. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Mas de Bressades ‘Cuvée Tradition’ 2014
AOP Costières de Nîmes $16.95 (143099) 13.5% alcohol
This is a favourite of many red-wine lovers and a fairly even split of Syrah and Grenache. This offers up aromas of charred wood, savory herbs and piquant/peppery spice. A tangy wash of spice, herbs with red and black fruit bathes the palate infusing the lengthy, crisp, refreshing aftertaste. This is all underpinned by supple, soft tannin providing structure, interest and depth. Good to go now with grilled red meats you pull from the Weber. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Lamartine ‘Cuvée Particulière’ Cahors 2011
AOC Cahors $26.95 (441238) 14.0% alcohol
This 90% Malbec, 10% Tannat red blend is inky black in the glass. Aromas of dried currant and red cherry set the table for a smorgasbord of flavour—briary berry and black Bing cherry entwine with red currant and cranberry in a profusion of balancing sweet and tang. There’s perceptible tannin here; aerate/decant two hours or pop corks 2018 to 2025. This is quite special and certainly worth a flutter. (Vic Harradine)

Germany: White Wine

• German quality wine regulations have recently (2009) been revised. Top quality German whites now use the term Pradikätswein, a.k.a. quality wine with specific attributes. This is the top level of German wines. The major difference of that designation and the following wine is that the Qualitätswein designation (a basic level of everyday, mostly inexpensive quaffing wines) allows the addition of table sugar to the wine if desired grape ripeness was not achieved on the vine in a particular vintage.

***1/2 drink or cellar
Dr. Hermann ‘From the Slate’ Riesling 2013
Qualitätswein Mosel $17.95 (446617) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of peach, apple and honeyed tropical fruit make way for an off-dry wash of pear, peach and honey bathing the palate and joined by lemon-lime cordial on the aftertaste. This is light on its feet, pouring well as an aperitif, an accompaniment to fresh fruit desserts or lightly spiced Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Papale ‘Linea Oro’ Primitivo di Manduria 2013
DOP Primitivo di Manduria $19.95 (261784) 14.0% alcohol
This rich Italian cousin of Zin is opaque and expressive enticing with aromas of dried fruit, plum and cherry interwoven with savoury notes of smoked meat, earth and grilled toast. It’s full bodied, round and approachable delivering a mouth-filling wash of succulent ripe fruit garnished with tasty spicy, peppery notes. The earthy quality underlies the weighty fruit, the smoky toasty notes replaying on the full-flavoured finish. This is a real crowd pleaser offering good value. Serve it with ribs. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Rocca di Castagnoli ‘Poggio a’Frati Riserva’ Chianti Classico 2011
DOCG Chianti Classico $32.95 (23358) 14.0% alcohol
A delicious rendition of a classic, this award-winning Sangiovese initiates you with tantalizing vanilla, spice and fresh herbs, notions of pipe tobacco and seductive aromas of ripe cherry and berry. This is medium-full bodied showing great depth and intensity of fruit underpinned with fine-grained supple tannin and well-defined acidity. It’s a velvety caress on the palate, pleasantly dry on the finish, notes of earth and spice lingering. Structured for cellaring, it’s an absolute delight now. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ruffino Modus 2012
IGT Toscana $29.95 (912956) 13.5% alcohol
This blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot showcases the best qualities of its components and the finesse of winemaking that makes it more than the sum of its parts. The aromas are complex and layered—a mineral nuance, a whiff of chocolate, notions of spiced rose and fragrant fruit—pomegranate, black currant and cherry. Smooth and silky, the succulent cherry and berry fruit is framed by a well-defined structure and accented by well-integrated oak. Full bodied, offering layers of flavour, the mineral notes and hints of herbs and spiced toast replay through the extended dry finish. Serve with beef filet garnished with grilled mushrooms, tomato, red onion and a dab of blue cheese. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Corte Majoli Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2013
DOC Valpolicella Superiore $19.95 (84061) 14.0% alcohol
Bright fresh fruit fragrances—think cassis, black cherry and raspberry—mingle with hints of dried fruit, spice, vanilla and toast. Dry, medium bodied, the clean bright texture makes this a very tasty wine. Loaded with juicy red fruit—cranberry, raspberry, cherry and wild berry—it replays that touch of spice and shows the tang of balsamic. Underpinned with supple yet perceptible tannin, the fresh texture and lively fruit deliver a dry tangy finish. It’s a great wine to pair with Osso Bucco or mushroom arrosto. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Zenato Valpolicella Superiore 2013
DOC Valpolicella Superiore $17.95 (995704) 13.5% alcohol
Opaque ruby, this gem combines a smooth texture with ripe tannins, clean acidity and great depth of fruit. On the nose, you’ll find ripe berry aromas garnished with a floral note, baking spice and a whiff of mocha. Dry and medium-full bodied, tasty flavours of black plum, berry and cherry are accented by sweet spice and dried herbs, while a note of chocolate-coated coffee bean plays through the lengthy finish. Well crafted and balanced, this is a great value you’ll enjoy pairing with meat-based pasta. (Susan Desjardins)

Portugal: White Wine

****1/2 drink now
Deu La Deu Alvarinho 2014
DOC Moncão e Malgaço, Vinho Verde $19.95 (40642) 12.5% alcohol
Delightful aromas of piquant spice, floral notes and citrus set the stage for a bracing stream of sour lemon, blood orange and wisps of peach and apple streaking over the palate with nerve, verve and great tension from this 100% Alvarinho. It softens a bit on the still crisp finish with grilled pineapple and lemon curd. The aftertaste adds bits of mineral and salinity. Pour with grilled calamari or tuna ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Coto de Imaz ‘Reserva’ 2010
DOCa Rioja $22.95 (23762) 13.5% alcohol
Vanilla, sweet/spiced oaky aromas, pipe tobacco and smoke are layered on the scent of juicy ripe cherries. The wine is a model of harmony, the clean vibrant acidity matched to defined, supple tannin and well-integrated oak. This frame is wrapped around a core of tasty red cherry/berry fruit, an earthy quality and attractive toasty notes adding complexity and depth through the finish. Structured for cellaring, showing great freshness of texture, this wine is meant for food. Enjoy it with moussaka or herbed grilled lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

• The DOQ on the following wine is Spain’s highest designation for wine under EU regulations; it replaces the previous DOCa. Fruit was sourced from reclaimed/replanted ancient vineyards formerly belonging to the 9th C Monks of La Cartuja, boasting volcanic soils known as, licorella—a dark slate layered with quartzite. This aged 14-16 months in French oak before bottling.

****1/2 drink or cellar
Torres ‘Salmos’ 2014
DOQ Priorat $35.95 (60772) 14.5% alcohol
This stunning red blend—Cariñena, Garnacha, Syrah—offers aromas of dark chocolate, black plum and exotic incense. A seamless flow of cassis, black berry and dark Bing cherry bathe the palate robed in grilled herbs and excellent red berry tang. It’s medium-plus weight with a creamy-smooth mouthful and lingering, lip-smacking aftertaste. This is nicely structured with persistent purity of fruit and touches of elegance—it flirts with 5-stars. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Viña Vilano Crianza 2011
DO Ribera del Duero $21.95 (82180) 14.0% alcohol
Produced from the fruit of 25-year-old vines, this dense, opaque red shows complex aromas of vanilla and spice, black plum and currant, elusive notions of black licorice and warm tar. Medium-full bodied and finely orchestrated, the well-defined ripe tannin combine with fresh texture to frame tasty red and black berry flavours. Suave and smooth with attractive nuances of cocoa and an earthy quality, you’ll savour the dry, intensely flavourful finish. Serve with braised lamb and roasted root vegetables. (Susan Desjardins)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

White Wine

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Bolla Soave Classico 2014
DOC Soave, Italy $12.90 (438945) 12.5% alcohol
This is a lovely Soave with racy tang. It’s crisp and refreshing from cork pop to last drop with a price-quality balance tipped in your favour. Aromas of tropical fruit and peach lead the way for a mid-weight stream of apple, pear and peach nicely balanced with racy lemon curd. Pours well on its own or with lighter-styled dishes like roast chicken, veal, fish or seafood. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
Peller Estates ‘Family Select’ Riesling 2014
VQA Niagara Peninsula $11.95 (582817) 11.5% alcohol
Offering delightful floral notes, citrus and mineral, with a whiff of stone fruit, this technically off-dry Riesling is crisp and lively. The tasty flavours of lime and green apple are complemented with an underlying roundness that translates as ripe pear and lifted by a well-defined backbone of lively acidity. Finishing slightly pithy and refreshing, you’ll enjoy sipping this tasty value on a warm day or pairing with light appetizers. (Susan Desjardins)

Red Wine

**** drink now Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
Château des Charmes ‘Estate’ Cabernet Franc 2013
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $13.95 (162602) 13.0% alcohol
Arguably one of Niagara’s top red grapes, Cabernet Franc, when handled properly as it is here, is rich and quite delicious. Aromas of grilled herbs, roasted red peppers and earthy notes abound. This is value-packed, savoury-laden, rich and complex with a lush, delicious, medium-bodied stream of black currant, raspberry and wisps of passion fruit framed by savoury herbs, deft balance, ripe fruit, soft tannin and racy acidity. The lengthy finish and aftertaste is quite special. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Terre del Barolo Barolo 2011
DOCG Barolo, Italy $27.25 (264333) 14.0% alcohol
Floral notes, tar and tobacco aromas abound. A gorgeous river of ripe red cherry and red currant bathe the palate robed in excellent acidity and tang. This is dry, medium bodied with good mouth feel and a lengthy, lip-smacking finish. This large cooperative produces good-quality wine at a favourable price. Pour with roast Cornish game hens accompanied by root veggies. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
The Wanted Zin Primitivo 2014
IGT Puglia, Italy $13.95 (416487) 14.5% alcohol
You wouldn’t be faulted for thinking this is Zinfandel from California as the front label would certainly lead you there. However, it’s Primitivo from Puglia, Italy. Whatever… it’s very good. Piquant spice and red cherry berry aromas set the table for a lively wash of red cherry and pomegranate coating the palate robed in spice and tang. It’s mid-full weight with good texture and the perfect foil for a pulled pork sandwich, ribs or wings. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Mauro ‘Alberello’ Primitivo 2014
IGT Del Salento, Italy $11.95 (441790) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of roasted herbs, tobacco and dark berry fruit abound. It streaks over the palate with racy tang from red currant, cranberry and pie cherry flavours. This is medium bodied with oodles of racy tang and a lip-smacking finish of red berry fruit along with a hefty, pungent bite on the aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Ascheri Barbera d’Alba 2014

DOC Barbera d’Alba, Italy $16.00 (219790) 13.0% alcohol
Exotic incense and red cherry/berry fruit aromas introduce a savory-laden river of tangy pie cherry and earthy notes along with roasted herbs and cranberry. This is mid weight with good texture and wisps of grainy tannin on the aftertaste. Aerate/decant a couple of hours, enjoying this 100% Barbera with beef fajitas, burritos or chili con carne. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Fantini ‘Numero Uno’ Primitivo 2014 
IGT Puglia, Italy $12.90 (442491) 13.5% alcohol
Charred toast and pipe tobacco aromas open this medium-full bodied, nicely textured red that punches well above the meagre price point. A balanced wash of red and dark berry fruit—mulberry, currant and bramble—along with dark cherry and earthy notes coat the palate. It finishes with replays—fruit-forward, smooth as silk, delicious. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Ciao Sang Org Sangiovese Non-Vintage
IGT Terre Di Chieti, Italy $11.85 (29090) 1L Tetra Pack 13.0% alcohol
Ripe cherry/berry on the nose, it unleashes a palate-bathing wash of creamy-smooth sweet cherry and sweet bramble berry on the palate persisting through the lengthy aftertaste. This Non-Vintage, Tetra Pack goes well around the pool with plastic glasses along with grilled pork ribs slathered in spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

• Pick up a bottle of the following, newly released red and give it a try. If you’re pleased, go back and pick up a few—you’ll receive 9 bonus AirMiles for each bottle purchased May 22 - June 18, 2016.

***1/2 drink now
Le Clairon des Anges Costières de Nîmes 2014
AOP Costières de Nîmes, France $13.45 (441741) 13.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of cedar, piquant spice and berry fruit open the door to a dry, racy wash of grilled herbs, red berry fruit and wisps of kirsch liqueur robed in warm spice and chalky notes. It’s medium weight and nicely textured with a mid-length finish and aftertaste. Pour with pasta and meatballs in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

• Purchase the following wine in person at their Niagara-on-the-Lake winery at 1025 York Rd, St. Davids ON or in their Ottawa or Toronto retail store, or online by the two-bottle minimum for daily home, restaurant or office delivery from Château des Charmes.

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Château des Charmes Equuleus 2012
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $40.00 14.0% alcohol
Opaque, bold and powerful, this robust blend—predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon enhanced with Cabernet Franc and Merlot—was aged 16 months in French oak. The scents of oak aging include smoked meat, spice and cedar, complemented by ripe dark fruit, licorice and dried herbs. Full bodied and velvety in texture, the well-defined tannic structure is paired with finely etched acidity and well-integrated oak. There’s an abundance of flavour with dark, tangy fruit—cassis, blackberry, cherry and raspberry—showing depth and intensity. Notes of spice and herbs mingle with a touch of espresso on the lengthy, dry finish. A match for rare prime rib now, this wine will improve with age. (Susan Desjardins)

• Order by the bottle for daily delivery to home, office or restaurant online from Henry of Pelham or pick up from the winery at 1469 Pelham Rd, St. Catharines ON

****1/2drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family - Reserve’ Cabernet - Merlot 2012
VQA Short Hills Bench $39.95 14.0% alcohol
Sourced from fruit of their oldest vines then aged 18 months in French and American oak, this approachable, rigorously crafted red shows complex aromas of sweet exotic spice, tobacco and licorice, vanilla and toast, wrapped around a core of fragrant ripe fruit. Velvety textured and firmly yet subtly framed with concentrated dark fruit flavour, it expands on the palate with elusive flavours of dark chocolate, espresso, cedar and spice. It’s well orchestrated and finishes, long and dry with an agreeable toasty note. Its power and presence make it a fine match for roast leg of lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

• Order by the bottle for daily delivery to home, office or restaurant online from Westcott Vineyards or pick up from the winery at 3180 Seventeenth Street, Jordan ON.

**** drink now Oh Canada!
Westcott Vineyards ‘Violette’ Brut Sparkling
VQA Ontario $24.95 12.4% alcohol
Violette is light, bright and bubbly with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay harvested in 2013. This was produced in the Charmat method thus retaining lovely aromas and flavours of fresh fruit while offering a slight hint of yeast. The mousse is delicate and persistent in the mouth enlivening the clean fresh flavours of orchard fruit and citrus. The finish offers a pleasing, cleansing pithy note; sip on its own or enjoy with smoked salmon canapés. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Private Order

• Order the following wine by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario along with those published in the previous newsletters from Nokhrin Wines or Email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it., if in the GTA phone 416 704-8617.

**** drink now
Vina Stekar ‘Emilio’ 2014
Goriška Brda, Primorske, Slovenia $35.00 12.5% alcohol
This blend of Sauvignonasse/Rebula/Pinot Gris is from Certified Organic, hand-harvested, estate-grown fruit. Floral and mineral notes blend with aromas of quince jelly. It bathes the palate with a light-on-its-feet, nicely textured stream of ripe pear and apple mingling with Meyer lemon and wisps of honeycomb. Flavours replay on the balanced and beautiful, lengthy aftertaste. This is excellent sipped and a terrific ‘food wine’ given the pinpoint balance; pour with fish, seafood or roast chicken. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Vina Stekar Sivi Pinot 2014
Goriška Brda, Primorske, Slovenia $35.00 12.0% alcohol
Produced from organically grown grapes, fermented with wild yeasts then aged in neutral oak for several months, this Pinot Gris offers delicate floral notes and aromas of musk melon, apricot and citrus. Dry, light-medium bodied with a lovely satiny texture, it shows excellent balance and refinement. The tasty flavours of orchard fruit, grapefruit and lime are paired with well-defined acidity, hints of spice and a mineral undertone. Showing good length and an attractive note of pithy bitterness on the finish, the wine is an ideal sipper, or may be paired with appetizers, salads or light meat dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Vina Stekar Merlot 2014
Goriška Brda, Primorske, Slovenia $40.00 14.0% alcohol
Smoky/gamy aromas mingle with exotic spice, incense and dark cherry/berry fruit on the nose of this creamy-smooth medium-bodied red. It bathes the palate with fig, raisin and dark ripe berry fruit with replays on the balanced, lengthy finish and aftertaste. This was indigenous-yeast fermented then aged 12 to 14 months in seasoned oak barrels, now seamlessly integrated. Pour on its own or with mild chicken paprikash or Carniolan sausage. (Vic Harradine)

• Order the following wines—plus those in the previous March 15, 2016 newsletter—by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario from VinoLuna wine agency. Contact via website, VinoLuna, by Email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it., or in the GTA phone 416 587-6691.

• The following spectacular, organic, hand-harvested, 100% Sangiovese was sourced from a 7.5 ha plot at 300m above sea level. It was wild-yeast fermented in oak, aged 5 years in large French oak puncheons and 2 years in bottle before release.

***** drink or cellar
Azienda Agricola S. G. Arcangelo ‘Cuccuvaia’ 2009
IGT Toscana $47.85 15.0% alcohol
A bouquet of grilled herbs, earthy/gamy notes and dark berry fruit aromas abound. It’s structured and complex with persistent purity of fruit, good balance and a monumentally long finish and aftertaste. A gusher of dried cherry, soy/balsamic and glorious, ripe fruit—black currant and cherry—blanket the palate, medium-full bodied and smooth as silk. The finish lasts a minute or more with replays of fruit, ripe figs, wonderful acidity and a soft tannin underpinning. In two words… absolutely delicious. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Pavone Sangiovese 2013
IGT Toscana $40.75 15.0% alcohol
Sourced from hand-harvested organic grapes, fermented with native yeast, then aged 18-24 months in French oak, this is a lively, balanced, complex wine. The rich, lifted aromas invoke notions of exotic spice and vanilla, cedar, smoked meat and rich, ripe cherry/berry fruit. Dry, medium-full bodied, the palate is brimming with flavours of black cherry and currant, hints of smoke, dried herbs, sweet spice and dark chocolate. Ripe, drying tannin and a bright fresh texture frame and accent the bountiful fruit pervading the finish garnished with a delightfully decadent note of dark chocolate. Serve with grilled red meats or with aged Italian cheese and charcuterie. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Poggio Torselli ‘Torsellino del Poggio’ Rosso 2013
IGT Toscana $15.30 12.5% alcohol
This 100% Sangiovese will truly come to life with pasta in tomato sauce, lasagna or a roasted, meat-stuffed green pepper. A lively, fresh nose of spice, herbs, sweet vanilla and red cherry/berry aromas introduce a racy streak of tang with pie cherry and red currant to the fore joined by a sweet lick of kirsch liqueur on the finish. There’s a tell-tale Sangiovese bite on the aftertaste—this saw no oak aging; it’s good value. (Vic Harradine)

**** cellar
Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico DOCG 2013
DOCG Chianti Classico $24.85 13.5% alcohol
Subtle alluring notes of rose petal are interwoven with an earthy/mineral quality, a touch of spice and aromas of red cherry/berry. This juicy, mid-weight wine delivers focused flavours of red fruit paired with chalky, drying tannins and lively clean acidity. Notes of spice, pepper and charry toast emerge on the long, dry finish. It will benefit from a further year or two of cellaring, but may be paired now with tagliatelle with duck ragu, or bistecca fiorentina. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Poggio Torselli ‘Riserva’ Chianti Classico 2011
DOCG Chianti Classico $29.95 13.0% alcohol
This has it all, complex and refined aromas, bold and rich flavours and deft balance with a lengthy, fruit-forward and tang-laced finish. Espresso roast, kirsch liqueur and violets on the nose, it coats the palate with black juicy Bing cherry and dark berry fruit garnished with bittersweet chocolate and wisps of gamy notes. It’s medium-plus weight with good mouth feel and a lingering aftertaste that’s luscious and lip-smacking good. It’s an exceptional red from a premium producer at a favourable price. (Vic Harradine)

• The town of Carmignano is 12 miles NW of Florence; this DOCG is Italy’s oldest and smallest wine zone. Tenuta Capezzana, a family-owned producer of the following two wines, is one of the oldest wineries in Tuscany with documented winemaking back to 804. In the 14C Cabernet Sauvignon was introduced with small amounts blended into Sangiovese and indigenous varieties. It’s now enshrined in DOCG regulations; wine must contain between 10 – 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. The following wine, Villa di Capezzana, was sourced from vineyards at 700m with sustainably grown fruit—they gained their organic certification in 2015 becoming one of Tuscany’s first to be certified. This was wild-yeast fermented in stainless steel, undergoing malolactic conversion in large, seasoned, French oak barrel, 12 months oak aging and 12 months in bottle before release. Susan and I both thought this was delicious now with great aging potential.

**** cellar Two Glasses!
Tenuta Capezzana ‘Villa di Capezzana’ 2012
DOCG Carmignano $34.40 15.0% alcohol
This excellent red blend—80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon—is creamy smooth, fully textured and fruit-laden. An alluring bouquet of cedar, exotic spice and wisps of chocolate herald a firmly structured flow of black currant and red cherry robed in excellent red berry tang plus herbs and spice underpinned with fine-grained tannin. Pop corks 2018—it should reward you handsomely—drinking through 2023. (Vic Harradine)

• The following wine was sourced from de-classified fruit from younger vines than what’s in the DOCG Carmignano above. It also has 10% of the softer, indigenous grape Canaiolo blended in to ameliorate the tannin—the full blend is 70% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Canaiolo, 5% Cabernet Franc. It spends less time aging in barrel—6 to 12 months—and only 3 months in bottle before release.

**** drink or cellar
Tenuta Capezzana Barco Reale di Carmignano 2014
DOC Barco Reale di Carmignano $19.90 13.5% alcohol
Fresh lively aromas of bright red cherry and wisps of piquant spice open a mid-weight wash of ripe briary berry and pie cherry mingling with earthy notes and grilled herbs. This is quite smooth and silky on the palate. It ends with a warm, tangy/savoury Sangiovese bite on the mid-length finish. Pour alongside pasta with Bolognese sauce under grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan