January 7, 2016 Newsletter

Newsletter highlights include:

• Exceptional-value wine  – 16 of 70 wines reviewed meet the strict quality-price guidelines, all under $22.95 and all easily identified throughout the newsletter. What strict guidelines? Click here.
• 5-star Wine – one wine rang the 5-star bell – Rockway Vineyards ‘Wild Ferment’ Chardonnay 2014 @ $22.95 found under New in Ontario Wineries.
• Susan Selects – Sister’s Run ‘Bethlehem Block’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 @ $15.95 found under Australia: Red Wine; Aydie ‘l’Origine’ Madiran 2012 @ $14.95 found under France: Red Wine; Valpantena Valpolicella Ripasso 2013 @ $15.95 found under Italy: Red Wine; Terra d’Uro ‘Finca la Rana’ Toro 2011 @ $17.00 found under Spain: Red Wine.
• Vic Picks – Château d’Argadens Blanc 2014 @ $17.95 found under France: White Wine; Château des Aladères ‘Sélection Vieilles Vignes’ 2012 @ $14.95 found under France: Red Wine; Michel Gassier ‘Nostre Pais’ 2012 @ $22.95 found under France: Red Wine; Honoro Vera Garnacha 2013 @ $15.95 found under Spain: Red Wine; 

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, some stores post earlier. For LCBO General List wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. It’s always best to phone first.

Vintages Release: January 9, 2016

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Vin Santo Liquoroso

Castellani Sommavite Vin Santo 

IGT Toscana, Italy $10.95 500 mL (927) 16.0% alcohol 

Apricot and spice aromas waft from the glass of this racy Vin Santo a.k.a. Holy wine. Traditionally left to ferment until around Easter, it was then offered at Mass—lucky Italians! It now is aged at least 3 years in barrel after the semi-dried grapes are crushed and fermented. The involved and interesting flavours include strong tea, almond and dried black currant. This medium-bodied gem ends on a sweet and nutty note. Serve well chilled. (Vic Harradine)

Fortified Wine: Sherry

• Manzanilla is a type of Fino sherry made in a designated area around the port of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, in the province of Cádiz, Spain. It’s often described as having salty or saline characteristics due to the moist/humid sea breezes permeating the area. It’s quite versatile at the table and can be served as an aperitif with salted nuts or cured ham and Manchego cheese on salted crackers to get the gustatory juices flowing. The following is an excellent example from a premium producer of Manzanilla.

Barbadillo ‘Solear’ Manzanilla
DO Manzilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda $14.95 (290734) 15.0% alcohol
Aromas are pungent, crisp and clean with distinctive notes of minerality/salinity interwoven with medicinal notes. It’s quite dry with piquant spice as one would expect, but it’s also uncharacteristically nicely textured and fleshed out on the palate with nutty notes and hints of citrus. There’s delightful tang and mouth-watering acidity on the crisp aftertaste. Pour with ceviche, sushi or cured ham. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

Loosen Bros. ‘Dr. L.’ Sparkling Riesling Non-Vintage

Deutscher Sekt $14.95 (296095) 12.0% alcohol 

Producing this off-dry wine in the Charmat method ensures the character of the grape shines through, seen in the lovely aromas of stone fruit, slate, sweet citrus and subtle white flowers. Clean and fresh in texture, this displays a fine, persistent, palate-cleansing mousse. There’s great intensity of ripe fruit on the palate with vibrant notes of lemon-lime and mineral, melon and white peach, the finish accenting the refreshing, lively texture. A well-crafted Sekt for any occasion – sip or serve with light appetizers. (Susan Desjardins)

Bertolani Rosé Non-Vintage
DOC Lambrusco Reggiano $15.95 (422865) 11.0% alcohol
Deep rose in hue, this is a distinctive sparkling wine that shows great balance and vitality. Red berry aromas mingle with nuances of spiced flowers and dried lavender. The palate mirrors the red berry aromas and the hint of garden herbs, the creamy mousse and racy acidity sustaining the flavours through a long-lasting, dry finish. Serve with charcuterie or with porchetta. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

 
Featherstone ‘Black Sheep’ Riesling 2014

VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (80234) 9.5% alcohol

This over-achieving flagship Featherstone Riesling is always on the mark—hand picked, hand sorted and whole-bunch pressed, it delivers a world of value, pin-point balance and purity of fruit throughout. Aromas of green apple and citrus peel introduce a persistent, sweet-tinged river of peach, green apple and lemon zest. It’s mid-weight with good mouth feel and lengthy, clean, crisp and refreshing finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside smoked, grilled duck breasts with spicy fruit condiment. (Vic Harradine)

  
Fielding ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2014
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (164491) 12.5% alcohol
Delivering to expectations, this perky wine offers aromas and flavours of crisp apple, tangy citrus and juicy melon. Dry, mid-weight, its time on the lees comes through in the creamy texture with lively acidity delivering a juicy character through the finish. It’s a fine frame for the fresh flavours of apple and pear, lemon and honeydew. Serve with grilled shrimp and a light vegetable risotto. (Susan Desjardins)

  
Gilmour ‘Orus’ Chardonnay/Riesling/Pinot Grigio 2012
VQA Ontario $19.95 (441915) 12.5% alcohol
Sweet fruit aromas dominate in this three in one play—pear, melon, tangerine—overlaid with a whiff of honeysuckle. Honeycrisp apple flavours mingle and meld with a touch of mineral and sweet citrus notes. Light-medium bodied and easy-going, this is sure to be a crowd-pleaser. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

  
Calamus Cabernet/Merlot 2013
VQA Niagara $16.95 (426411) 12.5% alcohol
This blend of the Cabs and Merlot, lightly aged in French oak, is an appealing wine that combines berry aromas with spice, herbs and notions of bell peppers. Dry, medium bodied, lively in texture, the red and black cherry/berry flavours are underlain with a smoky, earthy character and garnished with a touch of dried herbs. A great red blend to serve with pizza or burgers. (Susan Desjardins)

California: Red Wine

Bogle ‘Essential Red’ 2013
California $19.95 (394452) 13.5% alcohol
This is a crowd-friendly red blend with good balance, generous flavour and loads of charm. Aromas of spice box, savory herbs and dark berry fruit open a medium-bodied nicely textured wash of tang-laden red and dark berry fruit interwoven with mocha and passion fruit. It finishes lengthy and lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

Gundlach Bundschu Mountain Cuvée 2012
Sonoma County $19.95 (397521) 14.2% alcohol
One could say that the ‘mountain men’ have joined this party, the blend including all the heavyweights—Cabs, Merlot, Zin, Syrah, Petit Verdot and Malbec. The result is a dry, full-bodied red with bushels of dark fruit, smoky toasty aromas, hints of earth, pepper and cocoa. Velvety in texture, generous in the depth of plum and berry fruit and lively with spicy, peppery notes, the wine maintains remarkable freshness and balance. The finish is long and smooth, whispering of dark chocolate-coated fruit. Serve with rich barbequed meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Ironstone ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2013
Lodi $17.95 (951889) 14.5% alcohol
Enticing aromas of juicy ripe black cherry, tobacco, sweet spice and vanilla burst from the glass of this classic Zin produced from the fruit of 45-year-old vines. Medium-full bodied and flavourful, the concentrated sweet red and black fruit and supple frame of the wine make it approachable and appealing, notes of smoky, toasty oak adding savory notes on the tasty, plush fruit finish. Enjoy with melt-in-your-mouth spicy ribs. (Susan Desjardins)

Paso Creek Zinfandel 2013
Paso Robles $19.95 (279810) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of toasty notes, red berry fruit and baking spice unlock a racy river of red currant and sour cherry garnished with spice-laden black plum. It’s medium weight with good texture and lengthy, mouth-watering aftertaste. There are wisps of tannin, easily ameliorated with a two-hour aeration/decant. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce or meat-laden red pizza. (Vic Harradine)

Stonehedge ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Napa Valley $29.95 (25122) 14.3% alcohol
Cedar, grilled herbs and dark berry fruit on the nose, this dishes up good structure, deft balance and a generous mouthful of black cherry, charred toast and bittersweet chocolate. It’s medium-full bodied with savory notes and a firm tannin underpinning making an appearance on the finish and aftertaste. You could pour now after a three-hour aeration/decant alongside a rare-grilled, well-seasoned steak or pop corks 2017 to 2023. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

Nieto Senetiner ‘Don Nicanor’ Cabernet/Malbec/Merlot 2012
Mendoza $16.95 (640938) 14.5% alcohol
Savory, earthy aromas are blissfully married to ripe black fruits in this inky, opaque red blend. Perceptible tannin and clean acidity frame the concentrated black berry, plum and cherry fruit while oak manifests in flavours of espresso touched with spice. Full bodied, nuanced and well balanced, finishing long, dry and savoury, this wine has all the attributes to please a crowd and pair well with grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Viña Cobos ‘Felino’ Malbec 2014
Mendoza $19.95 (118067) 14.9% alcohol
Medium-full bodied, inky and opaque, this deftly balanced Malbec captivates the senses with aromas of dark fruits and enticing notes of spice and herbs, vanilla and chocolate. Velvety tannins and clean acidity frame the concentrated, palate-coating flavours of blueberry pie and black berry, while the well-integrated oak brings notes of smoky toast and dark chocolate to the full-flavoured finish—there’s great depth and balance. Serve with rare-grilled sirloin steak or herbed leg of lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: Red Wine

Montes ‘Limited Selection’ Carmenère 2012
Colchagua Valley $14.95 (256685) 14.0% alcohol
Here’s a great value, offering layered aromas of dried herbs and roasted peppers, mocha and charry toast over concentrated dark fruit. Full bodied, smooth and plush in texture, this easy-going wine delivers the goods—rich ripe fruit, savoury toasty notes, traces of dried herbs, spice and pepper, and a long, fruity finish. Stock up! (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

Don’t Hesitate Shiraz 2013
McLaren Vale $17.00 (434159) 14.0% alcohol
Deep ruby, earthy, minty and spicy on the nose, this full-bodied dry Shiraz seizes your attention with its depth of aromas and flavour. The fruit showcases a lush palate of blackberry and currant jam touched with soft notes of pepper, spice and cocoa. Supple tannin and fine, fresh acidity balance the ripeness of the fruit, framing the long plush finish. An excellent value! (Susan Desjardins)

Heartland ‘Stickleback’ Red 2013
South Australia $14.95 (116574) 14.5% alcohol
This perennial favorite doesn’t disappoint, showing good balance and freshness. Opaque ruby, the aromas surge from the glass—floral notes, sweet ripe dark fruits, spice, vanilla and smoky toast. Dry, medium-full bodied, the palate combines a tangy texture with velvety tannin creating a well-defined structure for the cherry, berry and plum flavour. Spice, pepper and charry toasty notes add dash on the flavourful finish. A great deal! (Susan Desjardins)

Sister’s Run ‘Bethlehem Block’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Barossa Valley $15.95 (360636) 14.5% alcohol
Complexity reigns on the nose and palate—aromas of cassis, roasted red pepper, spice and dried herbs, chocolate and cedar mingle and merge in harmony. Full bodied and dry on the well-orchestrated palate, the wine effectively harmonizes firm tannin, lively acidity and concentrated flavours of cassis and red raspberry. Fine herbs and a touch of spice from the well-integrated oak dance through the fruity, firm finish. You’ll need a large wagon to stock up on this award winner. (Susan Desjardins)

New Zealand: White Wine

Middle-Earth Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Nelson $17.95 (391987) 13.0% alcohol
This classic offers piercing aromas of passion fruit and gooseberry, citrus and fresh-cut herbs. Dry, medium bodied, clean and zesty, the sweet tropical fruit, lively lime and subtle herbal notes are paired with tangy, juicy acidity to deliver a clean, lively, long-lasting finish. Serve with a goat-cheese and lemon zest appetizer, or with pan-fried halibut with a lemon-caper sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

New Zealand: Red Wine

• The following wine is a well-priced Pinot from one of New Zealand’s premium, but lesser-known wine regions. Martinborough produces only 2% of NZ wine and its cooler, dry climate is perfect for Pinot. This family-owned winery uses only estate-grown fruit and has 260 acres under vine—primarily Pinot Noir and Chardonnay—at four distinct sites, all within the Martinborough appellation.

Te Kairanga Pinot Noir 2013
Martinborough, North Island $26.95 (744946) 14.0% alcohol
Sprigs of herbs, cedar, piquant spice and cherry berry aromas introduce a generous mouthful of complex flavours with ripe mulberry and tangy pie cherry to the fore. It was aged 6 months in French oak barrel, 20% new. There’s persistent purity of fruit, balance and structure. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a medium-length finish. Pour with coq au vin or boeuf bourguignon. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: White Wine

Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc 2015
WO Western Cape $14.95 (675421) 14.0% alcohol
A classic ‘Steen’ from South Africa, this showcases tropical aromas mingling with peach, pear, citrus and herbs. The palate is vividly fresh and juicy, citrus and ripe fruit replaying, as a fine mineral note emerges. Refreshing and lively on the finish, this dry, medium-bodied Chenin Blanc will pair well with crab cakes. This is great value and will easily keep another 12 to 18 months. (Susan Desjardins)

France: White Wine

Château d’Argadens Blanc 2014
AOC Bordeaux $17.95 (159111) 12.0% alcohol
Aromas of grassy/herbaceous notes mingle with floral and green apple aromas prior to bathing the palate with tangy lemon pie filling and grilled pineapple robed in ripe tropical fruit. This is a stylish, medium-plus bodied, fully textured Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blend showcasing balance, structure and delectable flavour—white-wine lovers pass this up at their peril. It finishes lengthy and lip-smacking good; pick up a few for drinking over the next couple of years with crumbled chèvre over olive-oiled mesclun salad greens or grilled/steamed/poached/pan-seared fruits de mere. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

Château Blaignan 2010
AOC Médoc $23.95 (400606) 13.5% alcohol
Toasted herbs and smoky notes furl from this juicy, lively red blend. It streaks over the palate with great nerve and verve—there’s red currant, pie cherry and notions of passion fruit sprinkled with espresso roast, earthy notes and wisps of cassis on the dry, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. It’s medium weight with decent texture and enough oomph from a ripe tannin structure to be drinking now to 2018. (Vic Harradine)

Château Saint-Antoine Réserve du Château 2010
AOC Bordeaux $14.95 (434464) 13.0% alcohol
Principally Merlot, blended with Cabernet Franc, this well-balanced wine offers aromas of berries and cherries, cedar and spice, floral and dried herb nuances. Enjoy tangy flavours of red berry—raspberry, red cherry and cranberry—underpinned with supple tannin and fresh, lively acidity. Offering hints of toast and a touch of pepper on the finish, this dry, medium-bodied red is terrific value from what’s considered an outstanding vintage. (Susan Desjardins)

Domaine Dupré ‘Vignes de 1935’ Morgon 2012
AOC Morgon $19.95 (440297) 12.5% alcohol
All the fruit in this value-packed Grand Cru red is from a unique, single-plot of Gamay vines planted 81 years ago. Aromas of lilac, mineral and smoky notes provide segue for a palate-bathing flow of ripe berry fruit—mulberry, black currant and blue berry—adorned with piquant spice and savory bits. It’s medium bodied with decent texture and lingering finish showcasing good balance and tension between ripe dark fruit and a delectable hit of lip-smacking Montmorency cherry on the aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Château des Aladères ‘Sélection Vieilles Vignes’ 2012
AOC Corbières $14.95 (431726) 14.0% alcohol
Corbières is the largest AOC in the Languedoc-Roussillon wine region accounting for almost half its total wine production. This 45% Carignan, 35% Grenache, 20% Syrah red blend opens with lifted aromas of mixed field berry fruit, savory herbs and fresh red cherry on the nose. It flows creamy-smooth over the palate with red and dark berry fruit entwined with grilled herbs and wisps of cracked black pepper. It’s mid-plus bodied, absolutely delicious, aging 6 months on lees in stainless steel tank without a splinter of oak—back up the van. (Vic Harradine)

• If you haven’t met him already, let this dazzling organic, unfiltered, red blend—Grenache/Syrah/Carignan/Mourvèdre/Cinsault—introduce you to iconic owner/winemaker, Michel Gassier. An Algerian born, fourth-generation winemaker, he’s always pushing the envelope, he and his wife own this winery and are constantly lowering their use of SO2. They scoured the region to find exactly what they wanted, finding four separate plots, some miles apart; all on slopes so that the annual heavy rainfall at harvest runs off, all facing north as that extends the ripening season, and all with calcium-rich soils to enhance acidity in the wine. ‘Nostre Pais’ translates to ‘Our Land’. If you haven’t experienced one of his wines—he also owns Château des Nages with his brother—I strongly encourage you to try the one reviewed immediately below.

Michel Gassier ‘Nostre Pais’ 2012
AOC Costières de Nîmes $22.95 (295410) 15.0% alcohol
Fruit was hand-harvested from low-yielding older vines, hand-sorted and barrel aged six months in French oak with half undergoing malolactic conversion then bottled without filtration. A complex array of aromas—dark berry fruit, black cherry and wisps of minerality—precede a gorgeously textured gusher of cassis, bramble berry pie and racy red cherry interweaving with espresso roast, spice box and black licorice. It’s medium-full bodied with a balanced, structure finish and purity of fruit through the long aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Domaine le Grand Retour ‘Plan de Dieu’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2013
AC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $14.95 (224592) 14.0% alcohol
Predominantly Grenache, accented with Syrah and Mourvèdre, this blend is bursting with ripe fruit, spice and notes of vanilla. Dry and full bodied showing good complexity and structure, the palate’s laden with cherry/berry and plum flavours, an earthy quality comparable to worn leather and attractive notes of spice and bouquet garni. Well-integrated oak offers pleasant toasty notes on the dry finish. Rebuild your wine supply and enjoy this value-packed beauty with braised beef on a cold winter’s day. (Susan Desjardins)

Domaine Saint-Roch Vacqueyras 2014
AOC Vacqueyras $21.95 (437194) 13.5% alcohol
Local wild herbs, a.k.a. garrigue, dark berry fruit and earthy aromas herald a generous tangy, rich stream of balanced and beautiful palate flavour—ripe mulberry and strawberry jam interlaced with mixed spice and black currant. This is medium-plus weight with nice texture, good structure and complexity with a fairly lengthy finish and aftertaste. Pour with rare-grilled flank steak or vegetarian portobello mushroom burger. (Vic Harradine)

Perrin ‘Nature’ Côtes du Rhône 2014
AOC Côtes du Rhône $9.95 375 mL (10363) 13.5% alcohol
Earthy, smoky and mineral aromas jump from the glass of this organic, tang-laden, somewhat austere red blend. It’s light-medium bodied with flavours of minerality, racy, red-fruit tang and pie cherry on the palate, persisting through the dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. Good to go now with rich red meat and tomato dish. (Vic Harradine)

Aydie ‘l’Origine’ Madiran 2012
AC Madiran $14.95 (343566) 13.5% alcohol
This amazing blend of Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon defies all preconceptions. Deep purple, it seduces with intense aromas of ripe black fruit, smoke, licorice and spice. It’s dry, substantial and firmly structured. Yet those big tannins are effectively paired with concentrated sweet ripe black berry and plum fruit. The oak is well integrated, spice and toasty notes accenting the fruit, which is sustained through the lengthy, dry finish. Crafted with power and finesse, it will cellar further or may be decanted and served with roast lamb or cassoulet. There’s great to be had value here. (Susan Desjardins)

Germany: White Wine

Lingenfelder ‘Bird Label’ Riesling 2013
QbA Pfalz $14.95 (568634) 11.5% alcohol
Ripe tropical fruit aromas dominate the nose and palate with notions of white nectarine. It’s light on its feet with ripe, fruit-laden flavour dominating every step of the way. A perennial favourite, it’s decidedly off dry and sweet on the finish and aftertaste. Pour with spicy Asian dishes or lightly sugared, fruit-dominated desserts—fruit flan, poached pear, baked apple. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

La Pieve Barolo 2011
DOCG Barolo $34.95 (213132) 15.0% alcohol
Produced from the Nebbiolo grape, this well-designed, medium-bodied Barolo is a lovely transparent garnet, offering intriguing aromas of red berry, leather, smoked meat and a touch of spice. Well-orchestrated, the vibrancy of the texture merges with supple tannin and well-integrated oak to underline the tasty fruit. Flavours include red berry, dried cherry, spice and an earthy quality. There’s warmth on the savoury finish. Well paced and approachable, this provides a rare opportunity to taste quality Barolo at a judicious price. (Susan Desjardins)

Tenuta Rocca Barbera d’Alba 2012
DOC Barbera d’Alba $15.95 (427583) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of spice-packed red cherry and earthy notes portend a delectable rush of red cherry, black currant and ripe, sweet mulberry on the palate. This crowd-pleasing Barbera is terrific value, mid- weight with good mouth feel and a lengthy, well-balanced, fruit-driven finish and aftertaste. It finishes dry and lip-smacking good. Pick up a few and pour with burgers, pizza, meat-lovers pasta or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)

Antico Sigillo Primitivo di Manduria 2013
DOP Primitivo di Manduria $19.95 (439596) 14.0% alcohol
Sweet ripe fruit aromas bustle from the glass, garnished with attractive notes of spice, vanilla and cocoa. Dry and full bodied, the wine is intensely fruity, flavours of red and black forest berries mingling with notes of baking spice and chocolate-flavoured licorice. There’s a lively freshness to the texture that complements the sweet fruity finish. Well designed, generous and a great match for meatballs paired with roasted vegetables. (Susan Desjardins)

Matané Primitivo 2013
IGP Puglia $14.95 (434290) 14.0% alcohol
This pleasing, straightforward Zin offers appealing aromas and flavours of vanilla, spice and dark fruit—think blueberry and blackberry. There’s good structure to it and a clean lively texture with a flavourful finish. Well defined yet easy drinking, it’ll please the crowd having a game-night pizza. (Susan Desjardins)

Bibi Graetz Casamatta Non-Vintage
IGT Toscana $14.95 (330712) 12.5% alcohol
Here’s an unusual wine produced from the fruit of 60-year vines—a blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino aged in French oak—without a vintage date. On the nose, you’ll notice a wealth of berry notes, spice, vanilla and smoky toast adding complexity. Dry, medium-full bodied and well balanced, it pairs a clean texture and supple tannin with tasty fruit and hints of earth and spice. Finishing dry and fruity, it’s approachable and tasty. (Susan Desjardins)

Valpantena Valpolicella Ripasso 2013
DOC Valpolicella $15.95 (429928) 13.5% alcohol
Ripasso get their richness and intensity from a second fermentation on the grape skins remaining from Amarone fermentation – this wine is a great example of the excellent value they offer. Notes of red fruit and dried fruit co-mingle with lovely notes of spice and vanilla. Medium-full bodied, there’s balance between the subtle, supple frame and the concentrated sweetness of the dried fruit flavours which seem to expand on the long dry finish enhanced by the nuanced spicy toast and vanilla. Well designed and flavourful, this wine will stand up to braised meats with risotto. (Susan Desjardins)

Spain: Red Wine

Honoro Vera Garnacha 2013
DO Calatayud $15.95 (432997) 14.0% alcohol
Fruit for this was sourced from dry-farmed, steep-sloped hillside, 60-year-old vines. Baking spice, savory herbs and field berry fruit aromas decorate the nose of this dazzling mid-full-bodied, nicely textured red. Flavours of black currant, black licorice and sweet vanilla swirl over the palate garnished with lip-smacking tang. It finishes with a flourish of delicious cassis and black cherry interweaving with bittersweet chocolate. What’s not to like. (Vic Harradine

Ramirez de la Piscina Crianza 2011
DOCa Rioja $15.95 (383018) 14.0% alcohol
Grilled herbs, earthy notes and pipe tobacco aromas open the door to racy pie cherry, charred herbs and tang-laden red currant flavour streaking over the palate infusing the dry, mouth-watering finish. It’s mid-full weight with decent mouth feel and pours well with pasta in tomato sauce, meat-laden red pizza or meat- and rice-stuffed, baked green pepper. (Vic Harradine)

Terra d’Uro ‘Finca la Rana’ Toro 2011
DO Toro $17.00 (424135) 14.5% alcohol
This Tempranillo is produced from bush vines pruned to protect them from intense wind and sun, also concentrating fruit flavours. Deep ruby, there’s good complexity on the nose, a whiff of spicy rose rising from the glass, with nuances of leather, forest floor and spice layered on cherry/berry aromas. Full bodied, well balanced, with a supple texture and good fruit concentration, the rich fruit flavours are framed by ripe tannin, a clean texture and nicely integrated French oak. There are elusive notes of smoked meat and dried herbs through the dry, toasty finish. Load up the trunk. (Susan Desjardins)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: February 6, 2016

  

Château des Charmes Méthode Traditionnelle Rosé 2012
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $28.95 (78055) 12.5% alcohol
Fruit—50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay—was hand-harvested, double fermented and spent approx. 24 months on lees before being disgorged. Filling the room with lifted aromas of ripe strawberry with wisps of red licorice, it bathes the palate with a soft mousse and creamy-smooth wash of strawberry tart nicely balanced with tangy red grapefruit on the aftertaste. Balanced and appealing, it pours beautifully on its own and pairs well with pan-seared fish (visually appealing with salmon) or crown roast of pork. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2013 Tawse ‘Quarry Road’ Pinot Noir will be available through the LCBO Direct Delivery Program in TBA 2016.

  
Tawse ‘Quarry Road Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2013
VQA Vinemount Ridge $35.95 13.0% alcohol
This Tawse estate red, certified organic and biodynamic, entices the nose with subtle aromas of vanilla, spice, dried flowers and earth along with red fruit bursting with ripeness. Offering great impact on the palate, the wine marries a firm structure with well-integrated oak and a wash of tangy fruit—red cherry, sweet strawberry and pomegranate. Nuanced flavours of baking spice, dried herbs and earthy notes persist through the dry, lingering finish. Serve with mushroom arrosto and rare, beef tenderloin. (Susan Desjardins)

LCBO Release: February 2016

  
Redstone ‘Brickyard’ Riesling 2014
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 10.0% alcohol
Straw hued, this offers a basket of ripe Niagara stone and tree fruit touched with pretty floral notes and a hint of sweet citrus. Off-dry, mid-weight, satin-like in texture, there’s nice balance here—juicy peach, pear, mango and tangerine paired with tangy, refreshing acidity. The sweetness of the fruit lingers on the clean finish. This is a real steal, stock up. Offer chilled on its own, with light appetizers or with chicken braised with sausages and celery. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Vintages

  
Rockway Vineyards ‘Small Lot Block 11-140’ Cabernet Franc 2012

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $24.95 13.8% alcohol

Subtle light floral notes merge with red and black berry, cocoa and classic pencil shaving aromas on this value-laden red. Dry, medium-full bodied, it showcases a beautiful velvety texture, supple yet powerful tannin paired with fresh acidity framing tasty raspberry and black berry fruit. Notes of cocoa, spice and an earthy quality add complexity through the dry, savoury finish. Serve with herbed leg of lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

  
Rockway Vineyards ‘Reserve’ Meritage 2012

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 13.8% alcohol
This equal part Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon delivers a tempting, savoury blend. There’s dark fruit, violet, dried herbs, whiffs of vanilla, smoke and pencil shaving aromas. Layers of flavour characterize this medium-full bodied red—blackberry, dried cherry, savory coffee bean, smoky toast and roasted red pepper. Soft tannin frames plush fruit while notes of graphite and bitter chocolate swirl through the long, dry finish. Good value, pour with rare prime rib—aerate/decant three hours or keep a few months before popping corks. (Susan Desjardins)

  
Small Talk Vineyards ‘Recap’ Syrah 2012
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $20.25 (415612) 13.0% alcohol
This opens with red berry fruit, spice and cedar aromas—it spent 18 months in a mix of French and American oak, both new and seasoned. A wash of lively tang—red currant and cranberry—interwoven with cherry and wisps of cola sprint across the palate infusing the balanced finish and aftertaste. It’s medium weight with good texture and lingering, lip-smacking aftertaste. It benefits greatly from a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO

Amity Vineyards Pinot Noir 2013
Willamette Valley, Oregon $27.95 (124594) 13.0% alcohol
It’s pronounced will-A-mitt, dammit. Piquant spice, tobacco and field berry fruit aromas herald a racy, dry wash of red currant and pie cherry entwined with good berry tang underpinned by fine-grained tannin. It’s mid weight with good texture and lengthy, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Pour after a two-hour aeration/decant alongside pasta in basil-tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

  
Château des Charmes Méthode Traditionelle Brut Non-Vintage
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $22.95 (224766) 12.5% alcohol
Three years on the lees is expressed in delicate aromatic notes of wild honey, lightly toasted nut and glazed brioche layered on scents of citrus, nectarine and pear. The texture is rich and round, the mousse generous and refined. Clean yet restrained acidity frames the tasty flavours of ripe apple, lively citrus and butter-brushed croutons, the sweetness of the fruit lingering through the tasty finish. Delightful to sip on its own, this’ll pair well with roast pork or chicken with apples and butternut squash. (Susan Desjardins)

Lagaria Chardonnay 2013
IGT Terre Delle Dolomite, Italy $13.55 (404483) 13.0% alcohol
Lagaria is family owned and uses only estate-grown fruit to produce quality-driven, value-packed fine wine. Alluring aromas of tropical fruit, apple and pear open the floodgates to a delectable mouthful of ripe Bosc pear, juicy white nectarine and pineapple tang. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a balanced, crisp and refreshing finish showcasing citrus tang and orchard fruit. This pours well with chicken, veal, pork and grilled or pan-seared fish or seafood. (Vic Harradine)

Lavau Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages 2011
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages, France $13.50 (421024) 13.5% alcohol
This red blend—an even split of Grenache and Syrah—offers delicate aromas of spice box and red cherry before unleashing a spice-laden river of red currant and pie cherry interlaced with kirsch liqueur and dark bittersweet chocolate. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and balanced, crowd-pleasing finish and aftertaste. Pair with burgers, steak, meat-lover’s pizza or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)

• Sherry is perhaps the least understood wine. It helps keep the prices ridiculously low—a good thing—but it also keeps hordes of wine-lovers from trying different styles—definitely not a good thing. If you’re one of the latter and have a few minutes, please read what comes up when you click this, and if so inclined, pick up a bottle of the following from one of the best Sherry producers on the planet.

Lustau ‘Los Arcos’ Amontillado Non-Vintage
DO Jerez, Spain $15.35 (375097) 18.5% alcohol
Incredibly versatile at the table, pour with consommé, rabbit stew, game paté, smoked duck, mushrooms, ibérico ham/prosciutto or aged, hard cheese. The amber-green-hued liquid gives off delightful aromas of almond and toffee caressing the palate with nutty nuances mingling perfectly with caramel notes. It’s medium bodied with a perfectly balanced finish offering magical sweet and dry tang on the aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Vintage Wine Estates ‘Tribunal – Red’ 2012
Sonoma County, California $18.95 (394817) 2012
Aromas of dark berry fruit, sharp spice and espresso roast set the stage for a fruit-forward, flavour-laden gusher of cassis, briary berry and wisps of sour cherry for balance. It’s medium bodied and creamy smooth in texture with a lengthy tang-laden finish with good tannin for structure and interest. A two-hour aeration/decant won’t hurt. (Vic Harradine)

  
Small Talk ‘Shiny’ Apple Cider
Product of Canada $3.25 (407668) 7.0% alcohol
Vegan and gluten free, produced from Ontario apples, this hard cider shines lemon-yellow and clear in the glass. It shows attractive aromas of ripe apple and fresh-cut apple peel on the nose and palate, offering a fine, mouth-filling and lingering effervescence. Refreshing and clean with a pleasant slightly bitter note on the lively and lengthy finish, it’s a delightful sipper or would pair with roast pork with a butternut squash risotto. (Susan Desjardins)

  
Small Talk Vineyards ‘Faux Pas’ 2013
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $14.95 (343384) 13.0% alcohol
A crisp and dry, tasty Riesling/Sauvignon Blanc blend, this opens with sharp spice and citrus aromas. It washes over the palate with racy lemon curd, Key lime and wisps of tangy grapefruit. The mid-length finish is quite refreshing. This is a wonderful light-on-its-feet aperitif that’ll get gastric juices flowing. It also pairs well with pan-seared fish or grilled seafood. (Vic Harradine)

  
Small Talk Vineyards ‘Burning Ambition’ 2013
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $14.95 (310433) 13.5% alcohol
This slightly off-dry, Riesling-Gewürztraminer blend dishes up lovely aromas of rose petals and lemon pie filling. It’s light-medium bodied with good texture and fruit-forward sweet and tang on the palate and through the lingering aftertaste. It’s a wonderful sipper and pours well with spicy Thai and other spicy Asian dishes. It rested 14 months in stainless steel tank, saw no oak and there’s very good value here. (Vic Harradine)

Wolf Blass ‘Gold Label’ Syrah 2013
Adelaide Hills, Australia $24.90 (399477) 14.5% alcohol
Spice-driven aromas of cherry/berry fruit and sweet vanilla portend the medium-weight, nicely textured stream of ripe mulberry and black juicy cherry juxtaposed with racy red currant and tangy passion fruit on the palate. It’s nicely balanced with good structure and fruity mid-length aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

New in Winery Only

• Order the following wine by the case for daily home, office or restaurant delivery online at Redstone Winery or pick up by the bottle or case by visiting the winery at 4245 King Street, Beamsville ON.
  
Redstone Syrah 2012
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $39.95 14.0% alcohol
Opaque, inky and oh, so alluring—dark plum, black berry and licorice mingle with smoked meat, crushed peppercorns and an elusive spicy floral note. Velvety and dry, there’s a core of expressive dark fruit wrapped around a firm structure and lively acidity. This is a substantial, captivating red that brings you back for yet another sip where you’ll find lovely nuances of smoky toast, cracked black pepper and bouquet garni. There’s an impressive freshness to the texture that lasts throughout the lengthy finish. Serve with boneless leg of lamb roasted with, of course, bouquet garni. (Susan Desjardins)

• Order the following Rockway wines by the case for delivery to your home, office or restaurant from Rockway Vineyards or pick up by the bottle or case from the winery at 3290 Ninth Street, St. Catharines, Ontario.

  
Rockway Vineyards ‘Reserve’ Meritage 2012

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 13.8% alcohol

A blend of the Cabernets and Merlot, the nose is rich with dark chocolate and dark fruit aromas, cedar, dried herbs and spice. Dry, medium-full bodied, round and rich on the palate, the spice shines through, notes of pepper and coffee bean garnishing savoury cassis and dried cherry flavours. Structured yet smooth, an engaging red blend that finishes dry and flavourful—a great match for rare roast beef. (Susan Desjardins)

  
Rockway Vineyards ‘Wild Ferment’ Chardonnay 2014
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $22.95 alcohol 13.5% alcohol
This displays stunning purity of fruit, balance, structure and charm—huge kudos to Rockway winemaker, David Stasiuk. Hand-harvested fruit was whole-cluster pressed, racked off coarse lees into French oak barrel where fermentation and malolactic conversion were followed by 7-months oak aging with lees stirring before bottling. Aromas of baking spice and orchard fruit give way to a gorgeously textured and complex medium-bodied river of pineapple, lemon-lime and quince jelly. Pour alongside roast pork tenderloin. (Vic Harradine)

• Purchase the following wines for daily home, office or restaurant delivery directly from Small Talk Vineyards or pick up by the bottle or case from the winery at 1242 Irvine Road, Niagara-on-the-Lake.

  
Small Talk ‘Dessert Anyone’ Cabernet Sauvignon Icewine 2011
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $35.00 11.0% (200 ml) alcohol
A pretty salmon tone, the aromas include candied red fruit, dried cranberry, spun sugar and a whiff of dried herbs. Luscious and full on the palate, the lively red fruit shines through, vibrant acidity offering a fine frame for the tasty honeyed berry and dried fruit flavours. Persistent, lively and long on the finish, you’ll enjoy a pairing with chocolate mousse or a cranberry walnut tart. (Susan Desjardins)

  
Small Talk Vineyards ‘Recap’ Syrah 2012
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $24.95 (415612) 13.0% alcohol
This opens with red berry fruit, spice and cedar aromas—it spent 18 months in a mix of French and American oak, both new and seasoned. A wash of lively tang—red currant and cranberry—interwoven with cherry and wisps of cola sprint across the palate infusing the balanced finish and aftertaste. It’s medium weight with good texture and lingering, lip-smacking aftertaste. It benefits greatly from a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

• The following wines are available by the case for daily home, office or restaurant delivery online at Tawse Winery or pick up by the bottle or case at the winery at 3955 Cherry Ave, Vineland ON

  
Tawse ‘Robyn’s Block’ Chardonnay 2012
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $45.95 13.5% alcohol
Crafted from 32-year-old vines and fermented with indigenous yeast, this gem entices with aromas of tropical fruit, braised pear, stone fruit and citrus overlaid with traces of baking spice and warm brioche. Dry and medium-full bodied, the creamy texture is satin-like across the palate, the ripe fruit lush, the spice of oak well-integrated with delicate acidity subtly in the background. The finish is round with a touch of warmth and a lingering note of citrus pith. It was created with restraint and your dinner table in mind—pour with pork, veal or chicken. (Susan Desjardins)

  
Tawse ‘Tintern Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2013
VQA Vinemount Ridge $44.95 13.0% alcohol
This introductory vintage of a newly producing vineyard was cultivated using organic and biodynamic practices. It offers remarkable intensity on the nose, displaying rich, ripe fruit aromas, sweet spice, notions of dried lavender and milk chocolate. Dry, medium bodied, it showcases wonderful harmony of well-defined tannin, lively acidity, cedary oak and rich, ripe fruit. Mineral notes add character along with nuances of tomato leaf merging with fruit flavours on the lively, lengthy finish. A notable first vintage – pick up a few bottles—there’ll be no 2014 or 2015 from the Tintern Vineyard due to the impact from harsh winters. Pour with braised chicken and dumplings. (Susan Desjardins)

   
Tawse ‘Cherry Ave Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2013
VQA Twenty Mile Creek $59.95 13.0% alcohol
Descriptors like elegant, sophisticated and graceful come to mind for this perennial favourite; it’s lighter styled and quite delicious. Floral notes, baking spice and charred toast aromas garnished with red cherry/berry fruit waft from this certified, organic/biodynamic beauty. A light-­medium-weight flow of racy red currant is balanced beautifully with kirsch liqueur and wisps of mocha bathing the palate before infusing the dry, mouth­-watering aftertaste. It’s drinking well now and on to 2019. (Vic Harradine)

   
Tawse ‘Lauritzen Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2013
VQA Vinemount Ridge $44.95 12.5% alcohol
This opens with aromas of pipe tobacco, currant and flinty/smoky notes and showcases good structure and persistent purity of fruit throughout. The hand-­harvested, organic/biodynamic-­farmed grapes spent 16 months in French oak barrel. It delivers a medium-bodied, palate-­bathing wash of tangy pie cherry and black plum mingling with racy raspberry and baking spice while the lingering finish and aftertaste manifest excellent tension and lip­-smacking, red-­fruit flavour. (VicHarradine)

• The following Tawse 2013 ‘South Bay Vineyard’ Chardonnay will be released spring 2016.

• Lauren Harper stepped off the plane returning from Europe with a bottle tucked under her arm. A customs officer eyed it suspiciously. She smiled and offered, ‘A bottle of wine; got it for Stephen.’ The officer nodded, ‘Great trade, Ma’am.’ Here’s another great trade, Tawse Winery from Niagara and Huff Estates from Prince Edward County swapped fruit in 2013. Huff gave Tawse Chardonnay from their vaunted South Bay Vineyard and Tawse sent Huff Pinot Noir from their premiere Quarry Road Vineyard—each made wine with the others’ grapes. Here’s a review of the Chardonnay Tawse made from the Prince Edward County, South Bay Vineyard fruit.

  
Tawse Winery ‘South Bay Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2013
VQA Prince Edward County $TBA 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of exotic spice, sandalwood and orchard fruit provide segue for a medium-weight and complex, creamy-smooth stream of lemon tang interlaced with grilled pineapple garnished with mineral notes and grapefruit pith. It’s crisp and refreshing, structured and balanced with a lingering finish that’s lip-smacking good. This was barrel fermented, inoculated with indigenous yeast, aged 12 months in French oak barrel, 25% new. Great now, even better popping corks 2017 and poured with pan-seared tuna or grilled black Cod. (Vic Harradine)

New in Private Order

• Order the following wines by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario from VinoLuna wine agency. Contact via website, VinoLuna, by Email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it., or in the GTA phone 416.587-6691.

Domaine des Deux Roches ‘Les Terres Noires’ Saint-Véran 2014
AOC Saint-Véran $24.35 13.0% alcohol  
This hails from black soil on southern slopes of the Vergisson Escarpment —rich in limestone and organic material. Orchard fruit and rosewood aromas set the table for a smorgasbord of generous flavours with white nectarine and apple mingling with ripe pear framed by Meyer lemon and toasty notes. This has good purity of fruit with deft balance and is crisp and refreshing. The aftertaste layers on blood orange and Key lime on the lengthy, lip-smacking finish. Pour this superb Chardonnay with mussels steamed in white wine. It offers terrific value. (Vic Harradine)

Domaine des Deux Roches ‘Tradition’ Saint-Véran 2014
AOP Saint-Véran $29.50 13.0% alcohol
Green apple, piquant spice and yellow plum on the nose, this bathes the palate with a glorious medium-weight, generously textured wash of apple, pear and white peach bolstered by a solid line of lip-smacking lemony tang. It’s balanced on a pin with character, pure fruit flavour, minerality, structure and a boatload of charm. It finishes lengthy with each sip as good or better than the previous. This 100% Chardonnay, value-packed gem is well made, well paced and well… simply delicious. (Vic Harradine) 

Domaine des Deux Roches ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Pouilly-Fuissé 2014
AOP Pouilly-Fuissé $38.40 13.0% alcohol  
Flinty notes, ripe apple, toast and mineral aromas abound. A spirited wash of lemon tang and white grapefruit race over the palate interlaced with wisps of Key lime and blood orange. The premium 100% Chardonnay fruit was sourced from 60- to 90-year-old vines, gently pressed, left to settle and transferred to French oak barrel for fermentation, remaining on lees for malolactic conversion and lees stirring. There’s green apple, minerality and a hint of saline on the complex palate. It’s medium weight and well textured with a lingering aftertaste showcasing excellent structure and deft balance. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan