Winecurrent
November 24, 2015 Newsletter

California Wine FairCalifornia Wine Fair dates are always worth recording—it visits seven centres across Canada from coast to coast. Highly regarded as ‘the’ wine show of the year that one does not miss; it’s often sold out. Purchase tickets @ www.calwine.ca on February 1, 2016 and have questions answered now via the California Wine Fair Hotline (905) 336-8932 or 1-800-558-CORK (2675).  There are NO tickets sold at the door! 


The 37th annual California Wine Fair tour pours across Canada on the following dates: 

  • Quebec City, PQ: Friday, April 1
  • Montreal, PQ: Tuesday, April 5
  • Ottawa, ON: Friday, April 8
  • Toronto, ON: Monday, April 11
  • Halifax, NS: Thursday, April 14
  • Vancouver, BC: Monday, April 25
  • Calgary, AB: Tuesday, April 26

Newsletter highlights include:

  • Spoiler Alert – this is a Christmas and Holiday Season Vintages release; the quality and price are upped considerably. In spite of that, there are fine wines within reach of ordinary wine-lovers reviewed far below as well as those higher-priced gems sought out by collectors or for gifting at this time of year. There are many stunning Italian reds.
  • Exceptional value wine Exceptional Value!  – only 3 of 71 wines reviewed meet the strict quality-price guidelines, all identified and all at the end of the newsletter after the Vintages Release— priced $13.95, $16.15 and $17.95. What strict guidelines?  Click here
  • 5-star Wine – eleven wines rang the 5-star bell – they’re found within and following the Vintages Release priced from $39.95 to $299.95
  • Susan Selects – Rockway Vineyards ‘Small Lot Block 11-140’ Cabernet Franc 2012 earned 4½ stars at $24.95 found under Ontario: Red Wine; Miraval Rosé 2014 earned 4 stars at $22.95 found under France: Rosé Wine; Château des Charmes Vidal Icewine 2014 earned 4½ stars at $24.95 found under Icewine.
  • Lisa Likes – Les Hauts de Cairanne 2014 earning 4½ stars and an exceptional value icon @ $16.60 found under New in Private Order; Mascarello Barolo 2011 earned 5 stars @ $64.35 found under New in Private Order. 
  • Vic Picks – Henry of Pelham Cabernet Icewine 2013 earned 4½ stars @ $39.95 for 200 mL found under Icewine; Featherstone ‘Joy - Premium Cuvée’ Sparkling Wine 2011 earned 4 ½ stars @ $34.95 found under Sparkling Wine; Inniskillin ‘Montague Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2012 earned 4½ stars at $29.95 found under Ontario: Red Wine; Château Clarke 2009 earned 5 stars at $39.95 found under France: Red Wine.
  • Private Order – is a unique opportunity to order wine by the case that’s not presently available via the LCBO to have delivered to your home, office or restaurant. There are several wines listed and two are exceptional value—found at the end of the newsletter.

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, some stores post earlier. For LCBO General List wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. It’s always best to phone first.

Vintages Release: November 28, 2015

Dessert Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Cave Spring ‘Indian Summer Select Late Harvest’ Riesling 2013

VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (415901) 375 mL 12.5% alcohol

A true treasure, if you haven’t given this a try, I can’t encourage you strongly enough. Not an icewine, but grapes from the VQA sub-appellation of Lincoln Lakeshore were hand picked and pressed while partially frozen. It pours well with pan-seared spiced pâté, aged hard cheese, foie gras or fruit flan. Perfumed aromas of apricot, herbs and spice, honeyed pit fruit and lemony citrus herald a delightful flow of poached pear, peel marmalade and lemon-pie filling juxtaposed with a balancing, tangy line of racy citrus keeping it far from cloying on the finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Icewine

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Cave Spring Cellars Riesling Icewine 2013

VQA Niagara Peninsula $49.95 (447441) 375 mL 12.0% alcohol

Lifted aromas of ripe nectarine and baked apple herald an explosion of flavours on the palate with honeyed, spiced apple, pear and nectarine to the fore. This is structured, balanced and absolutely delectable. It’s medium-plus bodied with satin-smooth mouth feel and balancing acidity on the lengthy aftertaste. Can easily be served as dessert and shared between four. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Château des Charmes Vidal Icewine 2014

VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $25.95 (565861) 200 mL 9.0% alcohol

The luscious aromas fairly leapt from the bottle as the cork was pulled—fresh-cut nectarine and apricot, poached pear, candied citrus zest and creamed honey. Underlying the ripe, rich flavours of stone fruit, tangerine, and crème caramel is the finely honed, understated backbone of clean acidity that shows the deft hand of the winemaker balancing the yin and yang, the sweet and the fresh. There’s lovely weight and roundness on the palate, extended length and a tangy lift on the finish—simply delicious. Savour a sip on its own, or serve with an apricot tart or with grilled peaches and soft artisan cheese. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Henry of Pelham Cabernet Icewine 2013

VQA Short Hills Bench $39.95 200 mL (672402) 9.5% alcohol

Aromas and flavours of spice, strawberry and mixed field berry abound. It’s balanced on a pin with sweet ripe fruit mingling with tangy acidity on the palate and stunning finish. It’s full bodied and fully textured and not the least cloying. Pour on its own as dessert for a decadent, romantic treat for two or alongside strawberries dipped in dark chocolate. (Vic Harradine)

• It was Inniskillin’s 1989 Vidal Icewine that put Canadian wine, ALL Canadian wine, on the world wine map winning the coveted ‘Grand Prix d’Honneur at Vinexpo in 1991, in Bordeaux, France. And the rest, as they say, is history. For some time after, when tasting wines around the world, once someone found out you were Canadian, the question was, have you ever tasted icewine? Because, at that time not many outside of Canada had tasted it, or any other Canadian wine. Canadian icewine went ‘viral’ by word of mouth, long before universal use of the web. It was a game changer. The following Vidal sparkling icewine, and others reviewed here, are your opportunity to find out what the excitement was, and is, all about.

****1/2 drink now Oh Canada!
Inniskillin ‘Sparkling’ Vidal Icewine 2014
VQA Niagara Peninsula $79.95 (560367) 375 mL 9.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of ripe tropical fruit, apricot and rosewater waft from the glass preceding fruit-forward flavours delicately surfing on spritzy bubbles—mango, apricot and notions of lemon drop candy. It’s light on its feet and velvety smooth on the palate with a balanced, lingering finish. It’s a perfect welcoming wine or aperitif and just the right size for two—the perfect way to set the mood for an intimate evening. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

****1/2 drink now Oh Canada!
Featherstone ‘Joy - Premium Cuvée’ Sparkling Wine 2011

VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $34.95 (310334) 12.5% alcohol

This is available only in Flagship stores. From the festooned crown-cap closure to the very last bubble, this Chardonnay - Traditional Method sparkler’s a winner. It delivers persistent, fine-bead bubbles and aromas of orchard fruit and citrus. Stylish and flavourful, the palate’s treated to lively river of lemon curd and lime yoghurt interlaced with nectarine and notions of Granny Smith apple carried along by oodles of delightful bubbles. It finishes crisp, refreshing and value packed. Bravo! (Vic Harradine) 

****1/2 drink now
Bailly Lapierre ‘Réserve’ Crémant de Bourgogne Non-Vintage

AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $19.95 (991562) 12.0% alcohol 

An almost transparent straw colour, this lovely sparkler has delicate aromas of pear, green apple and brioche. It’s quite rich and fruity on the palate—tree fruit in particular with a citrus note—and the mousse is soft and creamy. This is finely balanced, well crafted and quite flavourful. An underlying minerality and fresh fruity acidity persist on the finish. This is good value. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Saracco Moscato D’Asti 2014
DOP Piedmont $16.95 (106385) 5.5% alcohol
Liquid sunshine in a glass; there’s no better way to reminisce about sunny warm summer days. Lychee nut, musky notes and honey-soaked peach and nectarine on the nose, it replays these on the palate with a tongue-tingling, spritzy flow of this nectar of the gods. It’s low-alcohol, light on its feet, fruit-forward and sweet on the palate and aftertaste. Sip on its own or pour with fruit flan. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

**** drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Featherstone ‘Black Sheep’ Riesling 2014

VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (80234) 9.5% alcohol

This over-achieving flagship Featherstone Riesling is always on the mark—hand picked, hand sorted and whole-bunch pressed, it delivers a world of value, pin-point balance and purity of fruit throughout. Aromas of green apple and citrus peel introduce a persistent, sweet-tinged river of peach, green apple and lemon zest. It’s mid-weight with good mouth feel and lengthy, clean, crisp and refreshing finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside smoked, grilled duck breasts with spicy fruit condiment. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now Oh Canada!
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Chardonnay 2013

VQA Short Hills Bench $19.95 (268342) 13.5% alcohol

Barrel fermented and aged, this golden beauty offers well-balanced aromas of orchard and tropical fruit, buttered toast and vanilla. Dry, medium-full bodied, showcasing a lush, creamy texture, the well-defined backbone of lively acidity accents flavours of ripe pear, pineapple and tangerine. Pleasantly spicy, zesty and refreshing on the finish, it’s finely honed to deliver harmony and delight. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Calamus Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $28.95 (285809) 13.7% alcohol
Toasty oak, savory spice and dark cherry/berry fruit aromas introduce and flood of red and black berry fruit interwoven with baking spice and sweet vanilla—this spent 20 months in oak barrel—and earthy notes. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a mid-length finish that showcases racy acidity and a still-evolving tannin underpinning. Aerate/decant a couple of hours and serve with well-seasoned grilled beefsteak. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Inniskillin ‘Montague Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2012
VQA Four Mile Creek $29.95 (997353) 13.5% alcohol
Floral notes, pipe tobacco and mixed spice announce a balanced wash of red and black plum, piquant spice and bittersweet chocolate interlaced with kirsch liqueur. There’s persistent purity of fruit and great élan. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and a lingering, delicious finish and aftertaste. The 18 months of new and seasoned oak has been seamlessly integrated, the excellent acidity is lip-smacking good and the tannin underpinning provides structure and interest—it’s good to go now. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Rockway Vineyards ‘Small Lot Block 11-140’ Cabernet Franc 2012

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $24.95 (346239) 13.8% alcohol

A touch shy on the nose, subtle light floral notes merge with red and black berry, cocoa and classic pencil shaving aromas. Dry, medium-full bodied, it showcases a beautiful velvety texture, supple yet powerful tannin paired with fresh acidity framing tasty raspberry and black berry fruit. Notes of cocoa, spice and an earthy quality add complexity through the dry, savoury finish. Serve with herbed leg of lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Kistler ‘Les Noisetiers’ Chardonnay 2013
Sonoma Coast $99.95 (251223) 14.1% alcohol
One of these under the tree will thrill even the most discerning wine lover; it’s from a premium, new-world producer of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. This was bottled unfined and unfiltered evolving on its own into this thing of beauty. Baking spice and orchard fruit aromas herald a full-bodied, creamy-smooth, complex tapestry of tang-laden citrus, crisp green apple and hazelnut dazzling the palate, persisting through the lingering finish and aftertaste. This has style, persistence of fruit and good acidity; it’ll develop further with short-term bottle aging. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Shafer ‘Red Shoulder Ranch’ Chardonnay 2013
Napa Valley/Carneros $76.95 (45583) 14.9% alcohol
Lemongrass and floral notes mingle with honey-tinged pit fruit on the nose of this mouth-watering gem. 100% Chardonnay fruit was whole-bunch pressed, indigenous-yeast fermented in 75% oak/25% stainless with14 months aging in oak barrel with no malolactic conversion. It coats the palate mid-full bodied and fully textured with depth and complexity. Flavours of Meyer lemon, blood orange and pineapple interlace with white nectarine and mineral notes persisting through the lengthy aftertaste. (Vic Harradine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Candor ‘Lot 6’ Zinfandel Non-vintage
Lodi $21.95 (133389) 14.5% alcohol
A rare non-vintage table wine, it opens with aromas of spice and savory supporting dark berry fruit and black cherry on the nose of this smooth-as-silk gem. A creamy flow of bramble berry and black currant is juxtaposed with pie cherry and lip-smacking tang on the palate, persisting through the dry, refreshing finish. The price-quality ratio skews in your favour. The ripe, delectable fruit flavour offers recognition to the warm climate of Lodi. Pour alongside veal Marsala. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar
Far Niente Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Oakville, Napa Valley $218.95 (539098) 14.5% alcohol
From a fabulous vintage and an über-premium producer, this is stunning California Cab. It wafts from the glass with alluring aromas of black currant, dark cherry and wisps of sweet vanilla and minty notes. Waves of cassis and black Bing cherry entwine with black licorice, espresso roast and notions of truffle on the palate. It’s sumptuous, full bodied, fully textured and full-bore delicious. The finish lingers, balanced and beautiful. Drink now, after a three-hour aeration/decant and on to 2028, after careful cellaring. (Vic Harradine)

• Joseph Phelps was running a construction company in the late 60s when he won the contract to build a Napa Valley winery. Completely smitten by Napa, he later purchased 600 acres and took the big leap in changing careers. His first harvest, and his first Insignia, was 1974. It’s now recognized around the world as a great wine. It’s now sourced from 100% estate-grown, Cabernet Sauvignon-predominant fruit. The 2012 reviewed below is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot, 10% Merlot, 3% Malbec, 2% Cabernet Franc grown in Phelps-owned Napa Valley vineyards. 

***** drink or cellar
Joseph Phelps ‘Insignia’ 2012
Napa Valley $299.95 (710400) 14.5% alcohol
Toasted oak, grilled herbs and cassis aromas set the table for a smorgasbord of flavour with kirsch liqueur and sweet ripe mulberry nicely balanced with racy red cherry and tangy red currant surging over the palate replaying on the lengthy finish. There’s persistence of fruit with depth, structure and deft balance while the aftertaste layers on spice box, dark coffee and earthy notes. Excellent acidity and a solid fruit underpinning are joined by a lick of tannin on the aftertaste. Aerate/decant for three hours before pouring; this will drink well now to at least 2035. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar
PlumpJack Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Oakville, Napa Valley $154.95 (296483) 15.4% alcohol
Aromas of cedar, savoury, grilled herbs and espresso roast abound. A full-bodied, creamy-smooth surge of cassis, black berry and dried currant garnished with sweet vanilla, spice box and dark coffee with chocolate coat the palate. This is complex and stylish with balance, depth and charm. 85% was aged in French oak—medium-plus and heavy toast barrels—that are now seamlessly integrated. It’s full bodied with generous mouth feel and a monumentally long aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Napa Valley $159.95 (936039) 14.2% alcohol
Dark cherry/berry fruit, sandalwood and spice are clarion call for a river of rich, dark briary berry and black cherry mingling with fennel and mixed spice. It’s smooth and mellow on the palate, balanced, complex and full of charm. Medium-full bodied with an involved finish, there’s black licorice, mushroom and mocha on the aftertaste. Pour now and over the next decade with beef daube Provençal and roasted root veggies. (Vic Harradine)

Washington State: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Columbia Crest ‘Grand Estates’ Merlot 2012

Columbia Valley, Washington State $17.95 (263418) 13.5% alcohol

If you enjoy a robust, fruity Merlot, this great value is for you. The perfumed nose offers notes of black cherry and berry, hints of spice and chocolate. Dry, medium bodied, the round, ripe texture is matched to velvety tannins and fresh acidity. Plush fruit flavours are complemented by notes of vanilla, mocha, spice and a touch of pepper. Enjoy the hint of roasted coffee bean on the fruit-filled finish. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: White Wine

**** drink now
Bodega Secreto Patagónico ‘Limited Edition’ Chardonnay 2012
Patagonia $18.95 (380055) 14.0% alcohol
A gorgeous golden hue and aromas of tropical fruit, honey and binned apple herald a value-packed, creamy-smooth, nicely textured stream of baking spice-infused flavours of ripe, red apple and pear interwoven with grilled pineapple and lemon pie filling. It’s medium bodied with a finish and aftertaste that’s loaded with ripe orchard fruit and wisps of peach skin. Pour alongside chicken à la king. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Callejon Del Crimen ‘Gran Reserva’ Malbec 2008
Uco Valley, Mendoza $22.95 (357467) 13.9% alcohol
Opening with a subdued nose of floral, cedar and berry fruit aromas, it sports a lively, fresh stream of red and dark berry fruit robed in espresso roast and dark bittersweet chocolate with hints of tar and baking spice—it spent 12 months in French oak barrel. It’s medium-full bodied and nicely textured with a long, balanced, fruit-forward aftertaste. Pour on its own or with grilled beef tenderloin. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Clos de Los Siete 2012
Uco Valley, Mendoza $23.95 (622571) 14.5% alcohol
The ubiquitous, international-vigneron Michel Rolland had a hand in this impressive red blend—57% Malbec, 18% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Syrah. A delectable rush of tangy briary berry and black juicy cherry dressed in great acidity and perceptible tannin coat the palate replaying on the lengthy, dry finish and aftertaste. Aerate/decant three hours or pop corks 2018-2023. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Casas Del Bosque ‘Reserva’ Sauvignon Blanc 2014

Casablanca Valley $13.95 (974717) 13.5% alcohol

There’s lemon and tangerine on the nose with a touch of minerality. It’s a delicious, clean tasting, light-bodied white with pinch, tart and puckering flavours making it a great accompaniment to chicken, fish, pasta salad or to sip on its own. Enjoy the flinty stone aftertaste that’s lip smacking, bringing you back for another mouthful. This is versatile; keep around for those unexpected (or expected) guests. (Julie Stock)

Chile: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Concha Y Toro ‘Marqués de Casa Concha’ Syrah 2012
Buin, Maipo Valley $19.95 (19042) 14.5% alcohol
Rich aromas of dark berry fruit uncover a medium-full bodied, generously textured, fruit-filled wash of boysenberry jam, cassis and black cherry garnished with mint and mocha on the palate. There’s a consistent stream of fruit and sufficient acidity to provide good balance throughout with each sip as good or better than the previous. If good-value, brawny, fruit-filled reds are at the end of your rainbows, here’s the mother lode—don’t pass it by. Pour with all manner of red meat you grill or roast. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Barossa Valley Estate ‘E & E Black Pepper’ Shiraz 2008

Barossa Valley, South Australia $89.95 (731620) 14.5% alcohol

This is an iconic Barossa Shiraz found in the ‘Outstanding’ category in Langton’s Classification of Australia’s finest wines. This dishes up a deep, rich bouquet of exotic spice, cracked black pepper and black plum compote. Dense and rich with complexity and charm, a succulent flow of ripe mulberry and briary berry coat the palate mingling with dark chocolate and soft tannin. It finishes in a blaze of moderating acidity, balanced and lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

• There are three facets of the following wine on which one might focus. 1) The ‘man’, octogenarian Robert Oakley, listed in Forbes as Australia’s 34th richest person having made a small fortune, that’s now a large one, through ownership and sale of Rosemount Estates winery in 2002, a world famous yachtsman who now owns boutique Robert Oatley Vineyards. 2) The Robert Oatley Vineyards ‘brand’, that builds on the concept of the wildly popular Rosemount while under Oatley’s guidance, care and leadership—the wine must be ‘a darned good drink - and even better when shared with friends’ and, ‘they must show a true sense of the land—that ideal combination of grape variety and region’ 3) And finally, the much be-medaled bottle of Robert Oatley Shiraz being reviewed below from the McLaren Vale region—one of Australia’s prime wine growing regions with Shiraz accounting for approximately half of total vine plantings.

****1/2 drink or cellar
Robert Oatley ‘Signature Series’ Shiraz 2013
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (327387) 14.5% alcohol
Fruit was sourced from premium sites in the Blewitt Springs-Willunga area of southern McLaren Vale, fermented on skins in closed and open topped fermenters and aged 12-14 months in French oak. Spice-infused aromas of ripe mulberry and black currant herald a creamy smooth, medium-bodied flow of dark berry fruit garnished with wisps of piquant spice and excellent tang and acidity. This is very good value, stylish, harmonious and certainly… ‘a darned good drink.’ (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Wynns ‘Coonawarra Estate’ Shiraz 2012 

Coonawarra, South Australia $22.95 (433060) 13.5% alcohol 

You’ll find this wine in the vaunted Langton’s Classification in the ‘Excellent’ category—only Australia’s top drops make their way there. Rich and robust from the get go, it opens with heady aromas of dark berry fruit, black pepper and dark berry fruit. Intense and beautifully structured, palate-coating flavours of richly concentrated dark cherry, mint and ripe mulberry interlace with kirsch liqueur and wisps of minerality. It’s medium-full bodied with creamy-smooth mouth feel and a balanced, lingering finish—an affordable luxury. (Vic Harradine) 

New Zealand: White Wine

**** drink now
Cloudy Bay Chardonnay 2012

Marlborough, South Island $35.95 (359513) 13.5% alcohol

Aromas of toasty oak, smoke and butterscotch announce an über-tangy streak of acidity with lemon-lime interweaving with saline/mineral notes. Medium weight with good mouth-feel, the flavours replay on the dry, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Pour with grilled or pan-seared freshwater fish under a squish of freshly squeezed lemon. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: Red Wine

• KWV (Kooperatiewe Wijnbouwers Vereeniging – Cooperative Wine Farmers Association) launched the ‘Mentor’ brand a few short years ago showcasing what meticulous fruit management—the correct varietal matched to optimum terroir at the proper yield—along with stringent winery practices—100% ‘quality control’ of winery and barrel regimen and ‘intervention only when necessary’—can do to produce premium South African wine. KWV’s Chief Winemaker, Richard Rowe, an earnest, engaging Australian, shared this with winecurrent during a 2012 visit, “You can taste a marked stylistic evolution in our wines over the last four or five vintages and we’re not nearly finished. I’m unashamedly a ‘new world’ winemaker, making wine that can be benchmarked alongside what the best wine regions in the world have on offer—our wines are modern, clean, stylish and refreshing with some reaching elegance—we value structure and concentration. We’re backing off our winemaking intervention, especially with oak, allowing the terroir, meticulous vine management practices and the fruit to have more of a voice. We're pretty happy with where we are and know we're going to continue getting better.” If you want to see the results, pick up the following KWV Shiraz.

****1/2 drink or cellar
KWV ‘The Mentors’ Shiraz 2012
WO Paarl $29.95 (403618) 14.5% alcohol
Charred toast, campfire smoke and exotic spice billow from the nose of this medium-plus weight, gorgeously textured red. A gusher of ripe, red and black berry fruit robed with cassis and kirsch liqueur are ably supported by tangy acidity, fine-grained tannin and a boatload of style and charm. A lengthy, balanced finish and aftertaste place a bow on this attractive package. Pour with grilled, smoked back ribs or gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)

Austria: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Leth Brunnthal ‘1ÖWT’ Grüner Veltliner 2013
Qualitätswein, Fels Am Wagram $24.95 (12278) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of lemon-lime and peppery spice mingle with wisps of minerality on the nose of this crisp, refreshing, hand-harvested Grüner Veltliner—Groo-nur Velt-lee-ner. It streaks across the palate with lemon curd, ripe pear and Granny Smith apple. Light-medium bodied with surprisingly silky texture, it finishes with good acidity and lip-smacking tang. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Hugel & Fils ‘Tradition’ Pinot Gris 2012
AOC Alsace $25.95 (118919) 14.0% alcohol
Vines have been cultivated in Alsace for 2000 years while the Hugel family trace their Alsace roots back to the 15th C. Subdued aromas of orchard fruit, wisps of citrus and floral notes provide segue for a medium-weight, generously textured wash of ripe peach and nectarine with hints of mango and apricot. The mid-length aftertaste is balanced and refreshing. Pour with pan-seared fish or grilled prawns under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Des Malandes Chablis 2014
AOC Chablis $24.95 (111658) 12.5% alcohol
Crisp, sharp aromas of piquant spice and racy citrus pierce the olfactory senses. An explosion of flavour bathes the palate with lemon zest and lime cordial to the fore. It’s light-medium bodied with generous mouth feel and an extra-lengthy, crisp, refreshing aftertaste. Pour alongside freshly shucked, Malpec oysters under a dot of hot sauce and a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Jean-Max Roger ‘Cuvée G.C.’ Sancerre 2014
AOC Sancerre $28.95 (189126) 12.5% alcohol
Prohibited by appellation regulations from naming the specific vineyard of origin, like the noted ‘Grand Chemarin’ where the majority of fruit for this was sourced; J-M Roger, a brilliant local producer, named this, ‘Cuvée G.C..’ A lifted nose of floral notes, citrus and minerality introduce a fabulous stream of racy lemon curd and ripe pineapple interwoven with savory herbs. The gloriously refreshing, crisp, clean aftertaste lingers. Pour with grilled freshwater fish. (Vic Harradine)  

France: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Cantenac 2010
AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru $38.95 (24430) 14.0% alcohol
Tobacco leaf, sandalwood and dark berry fruit aromas open the floodgates to this gorgeous Grand Cru, Merlot-predominant red blend. A sea of black raspberry fruit and kirsch liqueur coat the palate garnished with tangy acidity, black currant, fennel and tarry bits. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a firm, fine-grained tannin structure. The finish and aftertaste linger with depth, complexity and purity of fruit—a great wine to add to the cellar, drinking now after a three-hour aeration/decant, and on to 2024. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar
Château Clarke 2009

AOC Listrac-Médoc $39.95 (503904) 13.0% alcohol

This is a wonderful opportunity for red-wine lovers of all stripes—it punches well above the price and the appellation, delivering a mouthful of flavour, complexity, purity of fruit, balance and structure. This Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend opens with floral aromas interwoven with cedar, black licorice, pipe tobacco and dark cherry. There’s full-bore fruit—black currant, black plum and dark Bing cherry along with wisps of mint. It’s fully textured, creamy smooth and accessible now with a long mellow aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 cellar
Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2013
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $89.95 (711317) 14.5% alcohol
This is one of France’s best red wines; it’s from 50-year-old vines of organically grown fruit at the far north of this famous appellation. Quiet aromas of smoke, dark toast and grilled herbs mingle with wisps of berry fruit on the nose. A tangy, spirited, complex swath of red currant and bramble berry interweave with black licorice, mixed spice and kirsch liqueur on the palate. This is firm and taut with still-evolving tannin after spending 12 months in large oak Foudres. It’s medium-full bodied with generous mouth feel and lengthy aftertaste. There’s depth and plenty of promise—drink 2018-2028. (Vic Harradine)

France: Rosé

• Famille Perrin, of Château de Beaucastle fame, provide mentorship for the vines and wines of Miraval including the Rosé in the following review. This winery is the summer home of Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie and a music recording studio since the 70s hosting such stars as Pink Floyd, Sting and The Gipsy Kings. Unfortunately, no winery visits as it’s not open to the public.

**** drink now
Miraval Rosé 2014

AOP Côtes-de-Provence $22.95 (342584) 13.0% alcohol

This wine proves the point that you just can’t go wrong with Provençal Rosé. Lifted aromas of red berries, citrus and a touch of spice seize your attention. Pale rose in hue, the delicate red fruit flavours replay on the light, refreshingly dry palate. Bright, clean and juicy, it’s a great choice to enjoy with pasta salad or sip on its own. (Susan Desjardins)

Germany: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler ‘Wehlener Sonnenuhr’ Riesling Spätlese 2013
Pradikätswein $29.95 (197186) 8.5% alcohol
Located in the heart of the middle Mosel, the bluish/grey, stony vineyard slate is thought to contribute to the minerality in the wine. Aromas of flint, citrus and wisps of petrol provide clarion call to an off-dry surge of sweet and tang with honey-dipped peach and pineapple entwined with lemon drop and Key lime pie. Pours well as an aperitif, getting gastric juices flowing, or with spicy Asian cuisine like moo shu pork or pad Thai. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Fatalone Primitivo 2011
DOC Gioia del Colle $19.95 (279729) 15.5% alcohol
Primitivo is so named for its early ripening; an idiosyncratic characteristic is its second budding—very small berries, but quite fruity. Piquant spice, pipe tobacco and red berry fruit on the nose, this dishes up a fresh, lively stream of pie cherry, red currant and cranberry. It’s mid weight with good texture and oodles of tang-laden acidity. The finish is dry and lengthy adding on a luscious layer of dark berry fruit. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce or meat-laden, red pizza. (Vic Harradine)

***** cellar
Antinori ‘Guado Al Tasso’ 2012
DOC Bolgheri Superiore $104.95 (986380) 14.5% alcohol
The Antinori family have been vignerons since 1385; Piero Antinori and his three daughters now run the firm. This was sourced from hand-harvested fruit—55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot—then aged twelve months in 60-gallon, new, French, oak barrel. The complex aromas of cedar, exotic spice, dark berry fruit, leather and earthy notes provide segue for a full-bodied, mouth-filling surge of bramble berry, cassis and black cherry garnished with dark bittersweet chocolate. There’s persistent purity of fruit, depth and concentration through the monumentally lengthy aftertaste with its solid tannin structure. Cellar now and drink 2018-2035. (Vic Harradine)

***** cellar
Antinori ‘Solaia’ 2011

IGT Toscana, Italy $252.95 (987586) 14.5% alcohol

This iconic, opaque and inky blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc captivates with powerful aromas of plum and black berry, licorice, vanilla and dark toast. Weighty, round and fresh, the firm structure is immediately present, a counterpoint to richly flavoured fruit. Savoury notes of olive, herbs and notes of slightly bitter dark chocolate add complexity and depth on the dry, lingering finish. Cellar and pull out this historic red for a celebration in a few years. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Castello Di Gabbiano ‘Riserva’ Chianti Classico 2012
DOCG Chianti Classico $22.95 (216309) 14.0% alcohol
There’s a spoonful of Merlot in this predominantly Sangiovese Riserva—both hand picked. Smoky/toasty notes mingle with floral and spice box aromas before coating the palate with pie cherry, beetroot and red currant. This is medium-plus bodied with good mouth feel and a fruit-filled finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside lasagna or pasta Bolognese. The oak is seamlessly integrated and the wisps of ripe tannin are easily ameliorated by a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 cellar
Luce della Vite ‘Luce’ 2012
IGT Toscana $114.95 (685263) 13.5% alcohol
Luce is the flagship wine of this Montalcino estate, now owned by Lamberto Frescobaldi. The blend is—55% Merlot, 45% Sangiovese—spending 24 months in French oak barrique—85% new, 15% once used. Black plum, baking spice, peppery notes and dark chocolate aromas introduce a medium-full bodied, generously textured river of black currant and juicy, black, Bing cherry entwined with black licorice and toasty oak supported by fine-grained tannin and framed by delectable, lip-smacking acidity. The finish and aftertaste linger. Pour 2018 to 2030. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2012 Ornellaia is the flagship wine of this estate—the first vintage produced was 1985. This hand-harvested, red blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 7% Petit Verdot underwent fermentation and a long maceration in stainless steel before malolactic conversion and aging in French oak barrique, 70% new, 30% once used for 18 months then bottled and cellared a further 12 months before release.

***** drink or cellar
Ornellaia 2012
DOC Bolgheri Superiore $195.95 (722470) 14.5% alcohol
Piquant spice, earthy notes and dark berry fruit aromas abound. A gorgeous wash of briary berry and cassis entwined with racy Montmorency cherry and garnished with spice box, truffles and espresso roast coat the palate. This majestic red blend delivers a broad-shouldered, structured wine that showcases elegance, deft balance and finesse; the proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove. It finishes with incredible length supported by persistent fruit, good acidity and friendly tannin. Pour 2018 to 2027 or, if you must, pour now after a three-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 cellar
Rocca Di Castagnoli Chianti Classico 2013
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (222810) 13.5% alcohol
Savory herbs, baking spice and cherry/berry fruit aromas unleash a racy streak of sour cherry and red currant framed by riveting acidity and underpinned by a taut, tannin underpinning. A red blend of indigenous grapes—90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiola, 5% Colorino—it finishes with replays on the lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour 2018 to 2023 with pasta in tomato sauce or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)

• Sassicaia roughly translates to ‘place of many stones. It’s the stuff of legends. It was prime mover in the ‘Super Tuscan’ movement and its eventual pressure legislated an entire new designation—IGT—as a result of planting international varieties where before only Italian indigenous varieties had dared tread. It’s documented that Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta longed for this back in the twenties finally planting international varieties in the 1940’s and settling on Cabernet Sauvignon as his star amongst other Bordeaux varieties he thought would thrive in the gravely soil. Wine critics weren’t impressed, but he kept making wine and sharing them on the estate with family, workers and friends. At the insistence of those who had been drinking them, the Marchese marketed the first Sassicaia in 1968. Due to the immense success, it was granted its own DOC in 1994. The rest, as they say, is history. The following wine was the 44th vintage.

***** cellar
Sassicaia 2012
DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia $199.95 (480533) 13.5% alcohol
The hand-picked fruit—85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc—blossoms from the glass with heady aromas of grilled savory herbs, piquant spice and juicy black currant. It stains the palate with a full-bodied, fully textured flow of red and black currant and juicy mulberry mingling with mixed spice and truffles. There’s depth and complexity, firm structure and persistent fruit throughout. The finish is pure ambrosia with good acidity, ripe tannin and just plain great flavour. A stunning red wine to pour 2018 to 2030. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Bottega Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2013
DOC Ripasso Valpolicella $21.95 (261453) 14.5% alcohol
A blend of the Holy Trinity of red grapes in these parts—Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara—this offers a nose of mushroom, underbrush and campfire smoke aromas. It surges over the palate with a tangy, full-bore stream of fruit and acidity—sour cherry and red currant melding with black currant and kirsch liqueur forming a glorious, balanced and delectable tasting experience. It’s medium-plus bodied with good texture and oodles of charm. Pour with mature, hard cheese—Gouda, Cheddar or Parmigiano Reggiano. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Amarone is one of the wine-world’s treasures—a Masi, single-vineyard—at a price that’s not insignificant, but certainly less than many other high flyers from tony neighbourhoods. The Boscaini family own and manage Masi. The single-vineyard, ‘Vaio Armaron’, sits on limestone/clay, terraced soil managed by the Boscaini family—the Boscaini’s are 7th generation vignerons and an outstanding Amarone producer. Speculation even has the term ‘Amarone’ associated with this ancient vineyard belonging to the Serego Alighieri family.

***** drink or cellar
Masi Serego Alighieri ‘Vaio Armaron’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2008
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico $69.95 (462812) 15.5% alcohol
This is a Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara blend, the meticulously hand-picked fruit laid out on bamboo mats in ventilated lofts to dry before pressing. The fruit loses approximately 40% of its weight, mostly water, enriching flavour, texture and character in the finished wine. It was then aged in Slavonian oak for almost 5 years followed by a brief time in traditional, cherry casks before bottling. There are aromas and flavours of black plum compote, baking spice—vanilla, nutmeg, cinnamon—and smooth mellow wisps of mocha and espresso roast. It finishes quite lengthy, fruit-forward, compact, deftly balanced with good pace and sense of purpose. A fabulous offering. (Vic Harradine)

• When reviewing Quintarelli wine, one is reminded of their tasting and literary limitations, illustrated by this quote from, ‘Trees’, a Joyce Kilmor poem, ‘Poems are made by fools like me, But only God can make a tree.’ Giuseppe Quintarelli was a wine god.

***** drink or cellar
Quintarelli Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2007
DOC Valpolicella Classico Superiore $104.95 (986117) 15.0% alcohol
A shy, taut nose of berry fruit and spice momentarily shield the nectar released on the palate. A complex, alluring river of black and red cherry, black plum and cassis entwined with soft, ripe tannin and endless mouth-watering tang engulf the palate and senses. It’s mid weight and nicely textured with a lengthy, luscious aftertaste—another stunning effort. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

• The next red is Alto Moncayo’s ‘entry-level’ Garnacha—their flagship wines are highly sought after—this is also very delicious. Fruit was sourced from vines in the stony soil of the foothills of nearby mountains—stones have slightly rounded edges of limestone, dolomite, quartzite and slate and are strewn over clay subsoil—the gnarly, old vines vary from 30 to 50 years old.

****1/2 drink or cellar
Alto Moncayo ‘Veraton’ Garnacha 2012
DO Campo de Borja $33.95 (173211) 15.5% alcohol
Inky black, the opaque liquid sports a lifted nose of black plum compote, cassis and briary berry with notions of minerality. A muscular, luscious stream of dark berry fruit and red and black cherry interplay with sweet vanilla and toasty/oaky bits on the lengthy, complex and balanced aftertaste. It’s unfiltered, full bodied, fully textured and brimming with depth and concentration—not for the faint of palate. Good now after a three-hour aeration/decant and on to 2022. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in Vintages

Vintages Release: December 12, 2015

• The following Franciacorta sparkling wine is often unofficially referred to as ‘Italian Champagne’—to the chagrin of the French. The regulations are as strict as those in Champagne with the resulting wine different, but not necessarily inferior. Only three grapes allowed, all three are in the wine below, and the distribution of those grapes in the entire appellation is 85% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir, and 5% Pinot Blanc—a genetic mutation of Pinot Noir. Designation for dosage mimcs that of Champagne. You may find this has many similarities to Champagne and Cava, fine-bead mousse, great tension and nerve. You may also find this wine has enhanced depth, complexity and soft texture. Ca'del Bosco was named 2003 Italian Winery of the Year and has been awarded 22 ‘Tre Bicchieri’—translates to Three Glasses—from Italy's esteemed Gambero Rosso. 

****1/2 drink now
Ca’del Bosco ‘Cuvée Prestige’ Franciacorta Brut Multi-vintage
DOCG Franciacorta $39.95 (105353) 12.5% alcohol
Hand-harvested 75% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Blanc, 15% Pinot Noir fruit was vinified ‘Metodo Classico’ with soft handling of grapes and blending with high-quality reserve wines before a secondary fermentation in the bottle you buy. This spent an average of 25 months on its lees gaining depth and complexity. It offers lifted aromas of lemon zest, white peach and biscuit concentrating into mouth-filling flavours of pink grapefruit, red apple and toasted brioche on the palate. It’s well balanced with fine, persistent effervescence and crisp, long finish. (Lisa Isabelle)

New in Vintages

• You will save $2.00 off the regular price shown below for each bottle purchased of the following Santa Margherita Prosecco from November 29, 2015 to January 2, 2015.

**** drink now
Santa Margherita Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore Brut Non-Vintage 

DOCG Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore $17.95 (687582) 11.5% alcohol 

Aromas of green apple and minerality herald a crisp, clean and refreshing stream of tangy lemon-lime, orchard fruit and peach skin. There’s good texture and an abundant mousse of fine-bead bubbles. The quintessential, stylish welcoming wine, serve to guests as they arrive and pair with hand-around or sit-down appetizers. This is a Vintages Essentials product, always available in select stores. (Vic Harradine) 

• You will save $3.00 off the regular price shown below for each bottle purchased of the Mitolo Jester Shiraz now to November 28, 2015.

****1/2 drink or cellar
Mitolo ‘Jester’ Shiraz 2013
McLaren Vale, South Australia $22.95 (659607) 14.5% alcohol
This is a Vintages Essentials product, always available in select stores. Dark and mysterious at first glance, it reveals itself with aromas of plum and cassis accented with cedar, mint and hints of black pepper. It starts with vibrant, juicy ripe cherry and black currant accented with dark chocolate and sweet spice, finishing warm with velvety tannins. Enjoy this full-bodied, rich and luscious red with spiced, grilled lamb chops. (Lisa Isabelle)

New in the LCBO

• You will receive 9 bonus AirMiles for every bottle purchased of the following Villa Sandi Prosecco between now and January 2, 2016

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Villa Sandi Prosecco Non-vintage
DOC Prosecco $13.95 (394387) 11.0% alcohol
This is a clean, fresh Prosecco from the area around Treviso. It asserts itself with zesty lemon and grapefruit aromas softened by ripe peach and honeysuckle. Tangy citrus, crisp green apple and a stony minerality excite the palate. It’s dry, well balanced with a lively mousse and a long, zesty fruit-laden finish. Enjoy this with an appetizer of prosciutto-wrapped melon. (Lisa Isabelle)

***1/2 drink now
Kellermeister ‘Barossa Vineyards’ ‘unoaked’ Chardonnay 2014
Barossa Valley, Australia $14.80 (400424) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of baking spice, nutty notes and orchard fruit unleash a streak of racy, tang-laden lemon curd and crisp Granny Smith apple on the palate. It’s light-medium weight with fairly long tangy finish and aftertaste. This pours well with pan-seared trout or pickerel under a generous squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Charles Smith ‘Kung Fu Girl’ 2014
Washington State $18.95 (394759) 12.0% alcohol
Piquant spice mineral notes and citrus aromas introduce a gorgeous surge of sweet and tang—grilled pineapple, nectarine and lemon pie filling. It’s absolutely delicious. Medium bodied and very nicely textured, this slightly off-dry gem sips well on its own and pours particularly well with spicy Asian dishes. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Louis Martini Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Sonoma County, California $18.95 (292151) 13.0% alcohol
Charred toast, earthy notes and pipe tobacco on the nose, this delivers a mid-plus weight red with good mouth feel and a river of chewy, dense flavour—red and black cherry, black currant and baking spice. It sports a lengthy, dry finish that’s firm and taut with still evolving tannin. Aerate/decant three hours before serving. Will reward short term cellaring; pop corks summer of 2016. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
E and J Gallo ‘Apothic Dark Red Blend’ 2014
California $16.15 (392654) 14.0% alcohol
Black plum, mocha and cooked prune aromas provide segue for a rich, luscious wash of sweet, ripe fruit with black currant, dark cherry and wisps of espresso roast on the palate and persisting through the lengthy finish, smooth and creamy. There are wisps of dark toast and loads of fruit throughout. This crowd-pleaser will stand up to steak, burgers, grilled ribs or stew. (Vic Harradine)

New in Private Order

• Order the following wines—plus those in the most recent November 10 newsletter—by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario from VinoLuna wine agency. Contact via website, VinoLuna, by Email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it., or in the GTA phone 416 587-6691.

****1/2 drink or cellar
Mascarello ‘Grandeur’ Barbera d’Alba 2012
DOC Barbera d’Alba $46.95 13.5% alcohol
Not your typical Barbera, this had extensive aging in barrel and bottle yet retains a delightful freshness on the nose and palate. There’s a tantalizing whiff of smoke from the glass, mingling with aromas of cherry and raspberry, sandalwood, sweet spice and herbs. Medium bodied, with a rush of pure red cherry and berry fruit, the wine is juicy and tangy, subtle toast and a savory quality adding further dimension. Well balanced, tangy and dry through the persistent finish, this wine is a match for braised lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Mascarello Nebbiolo d’Alba 2012
DOC Nebbiolo d’Alba $29.75 14.0% alcohol
An array of aromas lift from the glass—floral notes, red cherry/berry, sweet spice and herbs layered on savoury notes of leather and forest floor. This is a taut, structured wine with a clean, drying mouth feel; tangy red fruit flavours garnished with notes of coffee, cedar and dried herbs coat the palate. Mouth-watering through the extended dry finish, it’ll cellar long term or can be served now, after decanting 2-3 hours; pour with hearty beef or duck ragout. (Susan Desjardins)

***** drink or cellar
Mascarello Barolo 2011
DOCG Barolo $64.35 14.5% alcohol
This is a beautiful expression of Nebbiolo with grapes from the villages of La Morra and Barolo. It delivers aromas of red cherry, currant and fig with subtle floral and leather notes and an earthy dustiness. Warming on the palate, it doesn’t disappoint, offering tangy red fruit, dried cherry, sweet spices and smoke. This full-bodied red is mouth-watering with pronounced tannins allowing for future development on to +2020. Enjoy today after a two or three-hour aeration/decant with braised stew or game. (Lisa Isabelle)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Mascarello ‘dal 1927’ Nebbiolo d’Alba 2011
DOC Nebbiolo d’Alba $51.40 14.0% alcohol
Juicy red fruit, delicate floral and spice notes with vanilla and pipe tobacco entice the nose while flavours of pie cherry, blackberry and spices bathe the palate. This is a more modern wine-making style using large and small oak barrels for ageing and stainless steel for blending resulting in a lengthy finish of fresh, red fruit backed by vibrant acidity and pleasing, well-integrated tannins. (Lisa Isabelle)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Provolo Amarone 2010
DOC Amarone Della Volpolicella, Italy $58.80 15.5% alcohol
This rips from the glass with alluring aromas of espresso roast, fig, black plum and spice box. This red blend of 80% Corvina, 10% Rondinella, 10% Oseleta spent 3 years in oak. It dishes up a medium-full bodied and fully textured stream of smooth, mellow flavours coating the palate with raisins, black cherry, black plum compote and dark spice cake. It lingers on the aftertaste with oodles of dark coffee, bittersweet chocolate and charm. This is lovely Amarone. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine de Beaumière 2014
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône $14.30 13.0% alcohol
Ripened red currant and cherry combine with aromas of savory beet root, smoke and fresh cedar in this 80% Grenache/20% Syrah blend. Flavours of juicy black currant, ripe strawberry and hints of spice enrich the palate. This medium-bodied red finishes with fresh fruit backed by bright acidity and well-integrated tannins. Try this with a weeknight pizza dinner. (Lisa Isabelle)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Les Hauts de Cairanne 2014
AOC Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages $16.60 14.0% alcohol
The grapes from Cairanne combine the best of northern-Rhône Syrah and southern-Rhône Grenache in this 60% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 5 % Mourvèdre blend. Aromas of ripe red and dark fruit are reined in with savoury bay leaves, sweet tobacco and spicy charcuterie. On the palate the fruit is warmed with pepper and sweet spice. It finishes dry and full bodied with enough acidity for balance, leaving a lasting impression of dried cherries, savoury herbs and gamy notes. Pair with cassoulet or grilled spicy sausages. (Lisa Isabelle)

***1/2 drink now
Domaine d’Aigues Luberon 2014
AOP Luberon, France $12.30 13.0% alcohol
Campfire smoke, berry fruit and fresh grape aromas precede a racy red river of pie cherry and red currant mingling with mixed spice. This bistro-styled red is light-medium weight with candied cherry, good acidity and wisps of tannin peeking through the mid-length finish and aftertaste. It really shines with pasta in tomato sauce or meat-laden red pizza. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine René Bessac ‘Plan de Dieu’ Côtes du Rhône Villages 2012
AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages $18.35 15.0% alcohol
This Grenache/Mourvèdre/Syrah blend was sourced from the Plan de Dieu plateau with its rounded-stone-strewn landscape storing the sun’s rays releasing their warmth on fruit during cool nights. Charred toast, ripe cherry/berry fruit and floral notes on the nose, a meaty, mid-plus bodied wash of dark cherry and black currant garnished with savory herbs and notions of espresso roast, gamy notes and good acidity coats the palate. There’s a long balanced finish with good fruit, supporting tang and delightful tannin adding interest and structure. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic, Susan, Lisa