Winecurrent
October 14, 2015 Newsletter

Newsletter highlights include:

  • Exceptional value wine Exceptional Value!  – 6 of 50 wines reviewed meet the strict quality-price guidelines, all identified throughout the newsletter—priced between $13.95 and $26.95. What strict guidelines?  Click here.
  • 5-star Wine – four wines rang the 5-star bell - Shafer ‘One Point Five’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 @ $126.95 under Feature: Napa Valley; Fontanafredda ‘Serralunga d’Alba’ Barolo 2010 @ $44.95 under 2010 vintage, Barolo, Barbaresco; Creekside Estate ‘Queenston Road Vineyard - Reserve’ Viognier 2013 @ $26.95 under Ontario: White Wine and Domaine De Bila-Haut ‘Occultum Lapidem’ 2013 @ $25.95 under France: Red Wine.
  • Julie’s Jewel – Solo Torrentés 2014 earned 4½ stars @ $14.95 under Argentina: White Wine also earning ‘exceptional-value’ status.
  • Vic Picks – Creekside Estate ‘Queenston Road Vineyard - Reserve’ Viognier 2013 earned 5 stars @ $26.95 under Ontario White Wine, as well as exceptional value status: Featherstone ‘Red Tail’ Merlot 2013 earned 4 stars @ $19.95 and Salomon Undhof ‘Groovy’ Grüner Veltliner 2014 earned 4 stars @ $14.95 under Austria: White Wine. 

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, some stores post earlier. For LCBO wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. It’s always best to phone first.

October 17, 2015 Vintages Release

Feature: Napa Valley

****1/2 drink or cellar
Napa Cellars Chardonnay 2013
Napa Valley $23.95 (225342) 14.2% alcohol
This drink-me-now Napa Chardonnay is medium-full bodied with generous mouth feel and pairs well with roast bird or pan-seared fish. Aromas of toasty, nutty notes and mixed spice open a gorgeous wash of lemon curd and grilled pineapple mingling with pear and peach skin on the palate and persisting through the crisp, refreshing finish. There’s good value here. (Vic Harradine).

**** drink or cellar
Chateau Montelena Chardonnay 2013
Napa Valley $72.95 (701748) 13.8% alcohol
Piquant spice and particularly fresh notes of lemon-lime aromas herald a tang-laden river of lemon zest, white grapefruit, notions of crisp green apple and mineral notes. It spent time in tank and French oak with only 10% new. It’s mid-plus weight with a solid line of acidity throughout. This pairs well with grilled calamari rings, sushi or freshly shucked oysters under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Stonehedge Reserve Chardonnay 2013
Napa Valley $22.95 (311548) 14.1%% alcohol
Aromas of exotic spice and heavily perfumed floral notes lead the way to a nicely textured, full-bodied wash of white nectarine and poached pear balanced with wisps of lemon tart. It’s more of the same on the finish and persistent aftertaste. Mellow and smooth throughout, give it a go with chicken Kiev or leftover roast turkey with dressing. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Duckhorn Chardonnay 2013
Napa Valley $39.95 (418319) 14.1% alcohol
This lovely Chardonnay is over $45. Cdn standing at the winery cellar door at today’s exchange rates; given the pedigree, it’s good value. Aromas of caramel, nutty notes and sweet vanilla usher in a tapestry of flavour with almond, tropical fruit and lemon zest interwoven with ripe pear and apple. This is full bodied, lush and plush on the palate—it was barrel fermented with lees stirring—with a balanced, lingering aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Napa Valley $99.95 (222877) 14.9% alcohol
Aromas of dark chocolate and black cherry abound garnished with hints of mint and mocha. A rich luscious wash of sweet vanilla, dark berry fruit, camp coffee and milk chocolate blankets the palate persisting through the long finish and aftertaste. It’s full bodied and fully textured. Decant a couple of hours and pour alongside thick, grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ca’ Momi Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Napa Valley $25.95 (315002) 13.8% alcohol
Red and black berry fruit, mocha, smoky notes and spice aromas leap from the glass of this mid-full bodied, well-textured gem. It’s dominated on the palate by a laser-like line of crisp acidity with sour cherry, passion fruit and red currant to the fore. It’s nicely balanced on the finish with a rush black plum compote and briary berry. Considering the tony neighbourhood and the exchange rate, this offers very good value. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Black Stallion Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Napa Valley $32.95 (256768) 14.5% alcohol
This Silverado Trail, value-packed, red blend—91% Cab Sauv, 5% Merlot, 2% splash of Malbec with a teaspoon each of Cab Franc and Petit Verdot—opens with a blockbuster nose of hi-toned aromas—baking spice, dark berry fruit and juicy black cherry. Palate-bathing flavours of cassis and kirsch liqueur mingle with well-integrated toasty oak and sweet vanilla. The purity of fruit persists and it’s balanced on a pin with a lengthy fruit-laden, lip-smacking finish—an outstanding ‘Wine of the Month’ selection. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar
Shafer ‘One Point Five’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Stags Leap District, Napa Valley $126.95 (45476) 15.5% alcohol
The unusual name is from father John Shafer and son, Doug, having been together since 1983 as owners/winemakers. Although 2 separate generations, it’s thought of as One Point Five. This has it all, full, rich aromas—gamy notes, earthiness and black berry fruit—and complex, dense flavours—cassis, juicy black cherry dipped in bitter sweet chocolate interlaced with black licorice, hints of tar and vanilla. It’s balanced, full bodied and fully textured with a lengthy aftertaste and lots of time on its side. Aerate/decant three hours popping corks now to +2030 (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Napa Valley $89.95 (642124) 14.5% alcohol
Mixed spice, raw bacon and dark berry fruit aromas introduce a tang-laden line of red currant, sour cherry and cranberry streaking across the palate infusing the finish and aftertaste. It’s mid-plus weight with decent mouth feel and a lip-smacking finish that layers on savoury herbs and notions of spice box. Pour with pastitsio or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Napa Valley $116.95 (119065) 14.4% alcohol
Dark coffee, bramble berry and savory herbs dominate the nose while a complex, teeth-staining array of black currant, black and pie cherry with notions of tapenade coat the palate. It’s full bodied and full-bore textured with a lingering, fruit-laden finish and aftertaste. Expect a fair bit of tannin lurking under the flavour; aerate/decant three hours or best wait until 2017 to safely pop corks. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Clos du Val Zinfandel 2013
Napa Valley $31.95 (590216) 14.5% alcohol
Founded in 1972 they were an iconic winery from their very first vintage, their 1972 Cab Sauv was entered in the 1976 Judgment of Paris tasting. Red berry fruit and spice aromas on the nose set the table for a smorgasbord of flavour via a rich, dense, bountiful stream of bramble berry fruit and dark cherry entwined with baking spice and wisps of tannin. It’s medium-full bodied with good texture and a balanced, mid-length aftertaste. Aerate/decant a couple of hours pouring with roast beef or grilled red meat. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Freemark Abbey Merlot 2012
Napa Valley $39.95 (1602) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of savory herbs, pipe tobacco and dark, field-berry fruit waft easily from this mid-plus weight, creamy-smooth beauty. It washes over the palate with black plum compote and black juicy cherry mingling with espresso roast and dark chocolate. Elegant and stylish, it finishes balanced, lengthy and lip-smacking good. Gorgeous sipped on its own, it fronts up well to osso bucco or boeuf bourguignon a la Julia Child.

**** drink or cellar
Atalon ‘Pauline’s Cuvée’ 2012
Napa Valley $36.95 (432310) 13.5% alcohol
A long cool growing season helped fashion this supple, fruit-laden, right-bank inspired red blend—75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc with a splash of Cab Sauv and Malbec. Piquant spice, tobacco and black plum aromas set the stage for a symphony of flavour with red cherry, red currant and briary berry front and centre. It’s medium-full weight with generous mouth feel and a balanced, lip-smacking finish showcasing racy tang, toasty notes and baking spice—it aged a little over 14 months in primarily French oak, 63% seasoned— and juicy dark cherry. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 cellar
Beringer ‘Quantum’ 2012
Napa Valley $69.95 (362400) 14.9% alcohol
Two Beringer brothers began the winery in 1876. The great-great-grandson of one is winemaker Mark Beringer, at what is now California’s longest continually operating winery. This red blend—Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Sirah, and Malbec—leaps from the glass with hi-toned aromas of spice, box, red berry fruit and wisps of espresso roast. It coats the palate with a full-bodied, fully textured stream of briary raspberry and ripe sweet mulberry interweaving with pencil shavings and exotic spice. It finishes with good purity of fruit, deft balance and oodles of charm. (Vic Harradine)

Feature: 2010 vintage, Barolo, Barbaresco

• Barbaresco and Barolo are two sub-wine regions in the NW Italy wine region of Piedmont; both fashioned from 100% Nebbiolo grapes and both are grown in lime-rich soils. As Barbaresco has the richer-in-nutrients soil, it tends to produce wine with less tannin. Barolo is often more expensive and tends to age longer. The regulations reflect the latter with Barolo allowing release no sooner than January 1 the fourth year after the harvest and Barbaresco one year earlier. Barolo Reserva cannot be released until January 1 the sixth year after the harvest. Both require a minimum 18 months in wood, produce wines with considerable acidity and often develop aromas of roses and cherry.

****1/2 drink or cellar
Casetta Barbaresco 2010
DOCG Barbaresco $27.95 (412247) 13.5% alcohol
Piquant spice, floral notes and black licorice on the nose, this skates over the palate with a solid line of tangy acidity—red currant and pie cherry—along with wisps of licorice notes. It’s medium-bodied and nicely textured with a tang-laden finish and aftertaste underpinned by perceptible, but highly acceptable, soft-grained tannin. Pour now with pasta in tomato sauce or coq au vin—very good value. (Vic Harradine)

**** cellar
Prunotto Barolo 2010
DOCG Barolo $40.95 (928721) 13.5% alcohol
Owned by the Antinori family, they’ve invested heavily over the past decade bringing this winery to state-of-the-art status in terms of equipment and winemaking techniques. This will handsomely reward a few more years in bottle, pop corks 2020-2025. Aromas of red cherry/berry fruit mingle with violets on the nose preceding a solid line of tang with red cherry and red currant mingling with piquant spice. It finishes lengthy with racy red fruit persisting through the aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Silvio Grasso ‘Bricco Manzoni’ Barolo 2010
DOCG Barolo $89.95 (422105) 14.0% alcohol
Fruit was sourced from +40-year-old vines, fermented in stainless steel then aged a minimum 24 months in French oak barrique, resting further up to 12 months in bottle before release. This is drenched with tang and full of nerve and verve. It streaks across the palate, medium bodied, well textured, with red berry fruit and sour cherry garnished with flecks of mixed spice and sprigs of savory herbs and all persist through the racy, lip-smacking aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Tenuta Rocca Barolo 2010
DOCG Barolo $36.95 (395103) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of spice-laden wild berry fruit with earthy accents make way for a racy river of red cherry laced with peppery spice and floral notes bathing the palate persisting through the tangy finish and aftertaste. This is finely knit with good balance, and sense of purpose. There are wisps of tannin that are easily ameliorated with a two-hour aeration/decant. Good to go now and on to 2025. (Vic Harradine)

**** cellar
Ascheri ‘Sorano’ Barolo 2010
DOCG Barolo $57.95 (711077) 14.0% alcohol
Ascheri’s been around Piedmont since 1880 and quality of their Barolo is reflected here. This catches your attention with a pure garnet colour in the glass and heady aromas of wood smoke, tar and earthy notes. A wash of firm, structured flavour engulfs the palate—sour cherry and passion fruit interlace with piquant spice and grilled herbs persisting through the lengthy finish and aftertaste. It’s medium-plus bodied with good texture and a balanced, charming personality hiding under what are now still-resolving tannin. Pull corks after 2018 and the producer suggests you’re good until 2025. (Vic Harradine)

***** cellar
Fontanafredda ‘Serralunga d’Alba’ Barolo 2010
DOCG Barolo $44.95 (943290) 13.5% alcohol
This is a gorgeous expression of the terroir and the remarkable 2010 vintage. Drinkable following a three-hour aeration/decant, but better in the cellar until 2018—should reach its peak around 2020. Perfumed aromas of rose petals mingle with notions of mushroom and fennel. It coats the palate with a firm and focused wash of black currant, pie cherry and accents of sweet vanilla. This is full bodied with creamy smooth texture and a balanced, lingering finish showing good construction and soft, fine-grained tannin. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Port

• ‘Late Bottled Vintage’ Port, a.k.a. LBV Port, is a single vintage Port that can be bottled in any year. ‘Vintage Port’ is also single vintage, but can only be bottled in ‘declared’ years that occur, on average, approximately three times per decade. There’s an argument to be made that LBV quality goes up during the ‘undeclared’ years as the ‘good stuff’ from that vintage nearly all goes into LBV while in declared years nearly all goes into Vintage Port. Vintage Port can easily triple and more the price of an LBV. LBV Port must be bottled four to six years after the vintage and is ready to drink upon release, while Vintage Port must be bottled by 30 months after harvest and usually ready to drink between 30 and 50 years after harvest. It’s the easy-drinking accessibility and the price that’s much of the allure for LBV. LBV out sells Vintage by two or three to one. Even with LBVs there’s choice between filtered and unfiltered. There’s very little development in filtered LBV, while there’s considerable development in the unfiltered. Recent, since 2002, unfiltered LBV Ports can be labeled ‘unfiltered’. Also since 2002, LBVs that have been matured at least three years in bottle before release can be labeled, ‘bottle matured’

****1/2 drink or cellar
Fonseca ‘Late Bottled Vintage’ Port 2009
DOP $21.95 (87551) 20.5% alcohol
The 2009 vintage was declared a vintage year by some shippers, but not all. This unfined LBV is showing well now with spice-laden aromas of raisin and fig before unleashing a wash of rich, luscious flavour with black plum compote, briary berry and black currant coating the palate, creamy smooth with good weight and long balanced finish and aftertaste. Surprisingly mellow, this pairs well with dark chocolate dessert or cheese—warm Stilton tart or shards of aged Cheddar. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Bestheim ‘Brut’ Crémant d’Alsace Non-Vintage
AOC Alsace $19.95 (141184) 12.0% alcohol
Apple and pear aromas abound on the nose adorned with baking brioche while frothy mousse fills the glass. It’s light on its feet and skips across the palate with ripe pear, sweet, ripe nectarine and hints of lemon. This is made with the second fermentation having taken place in the same bottle you purchase. Pour as a welcoming wine or with lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
La Marca Prosecco Non-Vintage 

DOC Veneto $17.95 (287987) 11.7% alcohol 

Here’s a light and lively sparkling wine that shouldn’t be missed. It has wonderful aromas, oodles of fruit flavour and a crisp finish. Floral, lime and orchard fruit aromas introduce a painter’s palette of flavour with lemon chiffon pie, orange sherbet and ripe, sweet apple and pear to the fore. It’s light on its feet and the perfect welcoming wine or party starter. Drinks well on its own or paired with lighter-styled appetizers. The price –quality ratio skews well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

***** drink now Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
Creekside Estate ‘Queenston Road Vineyard - Reserve’ Viognier 2013

VQA St. David’s Bench $26.95 (264168) 13.5% alcohol

Aromas of honeysuckle, baklava and notes of hazelnut abound in this amazing expression of Niagara Viognier. It bathes the palate with a surge of unctuous flavours that are pure ambrosia—honeyed apricot, blood orange and lemon curd to the fore. It’s good weight and heavenly textured with a monumental finish and aftertaste—palate flavours replay along with sweet vanilla, piquant spice and a notion of grapefruit pith. This limited edition, only 150 cases, is 100% Viognier, fermented and aged 9 months in oak on its lees—stunning wine. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!  Oh Canada!
Tawse Winery ‘Sketches’ Riesling 2014

VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (89029) 10.0% alcohol

Opening with delicate aromas of Key lime, lemon and notions of flint and slate, this coats the palate with a deliriously delicious, sweet and tang flow of lime cordial, lemon curd and grilled pineapple. It’s balanced on a pin with persistent purity of fruit and lingering aftertaste that’s to die for. Exceptional wine at an exceptional price; pick up a few for easy drinking now to 2018. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Featherstone ‘Red Tail’ Merlot 2013

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 (131540) 12.5% alcohol

Sourced from estate,12-year-old vines, it was fermented with indigenous yeast in small vats over 15 days. A lighter-styled, consumer-friendly red with charm and elegance, it dishes up aromas of baking spice, red berry fruit and notions of red cherry. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and savoury-laced flavours of ripe red berry fruit and sweet-ish red cherry followed by a balanced finish. It pours well with mains of grilled red meat. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
Southbrook Vineyards ‘triomphe’ Cabernet Franc 2013

VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (275958) 12.6% alcohol

Aromas of bright red berry fruit, cedar and sprigs of herbs announce a balanced and beautiful wash of lively, ripe red cherry/berry flavour bathing the palate, mid weight, delicately textured with persistent purity of fruit throughout. It finishes in a fanfare of red fruit flavour garnished with savoury-infused, roasted herbs and good moderating acidity. (Vic Harradine)

Okanagan Valley: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Jackson-Triggs ‘Sunrock Vineyard – Illumina’ 2012
VQA Okanagan Valley $34.95 (424572) 13.5% alcohol
This dazzling red blend—51% Zinfandel-49% Shiraz—was single-vineyard sourced near the Osoyoos Lake Bench. It underwent malolactic conversion in oak then aged 18 months in French and American oak barrel. Aromas of über-ripe dark berry fruit, peppery spice and wisps of fennel precede a firm and focused stream of red currant and boysenberry pie garnished with mincemeat spice and wonderful tang. It’s stylish, medium bodied and nicely textured ending in a balanced crescendo of delectable fruit, lip-smacking tang and oodles of charm. Terrific now, it will get even better with a bit more time in bottle. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Solo Torrentés 2014
Mendoza $14.95 (183913) 13.8 % alcohol
This is bright pale-yellow and bursting with a field of white flower aromas mingling with lychee and lemon-lime zest. It’s clean and fresh on the palate with lots of lovely, zippy citrus flavours and a tantalizing racy finish. A fabulous pairing with chicken Alfredo, lemon linguine or fish and chips, it’s also a lovely sipper on its own. (Julie Stock)

Argentina: Red Wine

**** drink now
Alamos Selección Malbec 2012
Mendoza, $16.95 (322800) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of violets leap from this appealing deep purple-hued Malbec. It offers straightforward, blackberry flavour with a whiff of leather and pipe tobacco delivering an interesting pinch of smoke on the delicious wild berry finish. It’s medium bodied with some integrated underlying tannin. This is great with burgers or beef fajitas. (Julie Stock)

**** drink or cellar
Alta Vista ‘Atemporal’ 2011
Uco Valley, Mendoza $19.95 (144352) 15.5 % alcohol
A blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, it offers satisfying richness. Inky in colour, it’s been aged in French oak for 12 months, delivering dark berry flavour for a juicy mouth-watering and fruity wash on the palate. This is medium-full bodied with a dusty, earthy aftertaste on the dry firm finish. It’s a big crowd pleaser poured alongside hearty grilled fare. (Julie Stock)

**** drink now
Susana Balbo ‘Signature’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Uco Valley, Mendoza $19.95 (260919) 14.0% alcohol
This is classic Cabernet Sauvignon with a 5% dash of Merlot offering notes of violet and savory herb aromas. The palate’s teased with impressive notes of juicy red berries and a whiff of rosemary. It’s smooth and clean with soft tannin and a tinge of menthol on the finish. Try it with prime rib or roast leg of lamb. (Julie Stock)

Australia: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
3 Rings Shiraz 2013
Barossa Valley $18.95 (15495) 15.2% alcohol
There’s a lot of wine here for the price. Huge dark fruit—blackberry and blueberry—interweave with cassis and green pepper notes. This is one solid Shiraz with fine tannin underlying all the berry flavour with a peppery, dried-fruit finish. Pour with lamb burgers or lamb chops for a lip-smacking treat. (Julie Stock)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Mollydooker ‘The Boxer’ Shiraz 2013
Southern $29.95 (246595) 16.5 % alcohol
A ‘Mollydooker’ is Australian slang for a left-handed person. There’s nothing left handed about this. It’s assertive and strong in black fruit aromas and flavour, ripe dark plum and layers of blackberry explode on the palate. This is juicy, creamy and voluptuous with some sweet spice combining with dark fruit on the long silky palate. If you like an ultra-ripe style, don’t pass by this, enjoy with a baguette and stinky blue cheese. (Julie Stock)  

South Africa: White Wine

**** drink now
Spice Route Sauvignon Blanc 2014
WO Darling $15.95 (235895) 14.0% alcohol
A lovely lemon-green hue and produced from grapes grown on the cool hills of the Coastal Region just an hour from Cape Town, this wine offers keenly expressive herbaceous and lemon-lime notes. Dry on the palate, there’s a fruity tropical sweetness complementing juicy lime and crisp green vegetable notes. Tangy and tasty, finishing warm and mouthwatering, it’s a nice value to enjoy with sole or Coquille St-Jacques. (Susan Desjardins)

Austria: White Wine

**** drink now
Salomon Undhof ‘Groovy’ Grüner Veltliner 2014
Austria $14.95 (669606) 11.5% alcohol
Grüner Veltliner is a terrific white wine and often great value—ask a sommelier or wine server worth their liteau… they’ll agree. This one opens with aromas of piquant, peppery spice, smoky and mineral notes. A palate-bathing river of lemon curd and lime cordial adorned with white peach and green apple persists throughout. It’s crisp clean and refreshing—pour with pan-seared fish under a squeeze of fresh lemon. Yes, this is great value. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Trimbach Riesling 2012

AOC Alsace $21.95 (734517) 12.5% alcohol

Wonderfully aromatic and pure, aromas of stone fruit, citrus and mineral dominate. Dry, medium bodied, the fine mineral character is matched to zesty citrus and green apple flavours garnished with crisp acidity offering a lengthy, lip-smacking finish. Simply delicious—sip and savor. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

• Michel Chapoutier, doyen of the Rhone Valley winemakers, spread his wings to the far south of France and even Australia where he continues to dazzle with impeccably made wine. The following is a fine example. The full appellation designation on this is, AOC Côtes du Roussillon-Villages Latour de France. The ‘Occultum Lapidem’ roughly translates to ‘hidden stone’ or ‘hidden gem’, perhaps referring to the fruit in this wine. It’s sourced from +50-year-old vines, some much older, of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan in a 50/40/10 split, hand-picked fruit’s cold soaked during one-month maceration with cap punch downs then matured partly in older, large oak vats and partly in concrete, staying clear of overt oak influence. The label of this bottle also presents in Braille. Michel’s good friend is blind and he did up a bottle for him as a surprise and that kind gesture has taken on a life of its own—all Chapoutier wine labels now include Braille.

***** drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Domaine De Bila-Haut ‘Occultum Lapidem’ 2013
AOC Côtes du Roussillon-Villages $25.95 (643239) 14.0% alcohol
This stylish, ‘Wine of the Month’, red blend opens with a lifted nose of local wild herbs - a.k.a garrigue - gamy notes, campfire smoke and luscious dark berry fruit. It spills over the palate in a deep and dense surge of bramble berry and savory-infused, black Bing cherry dipped in dark bittersweet chocolate garnished with black licorice, bits of tar and peppery notes. It’s full bodied with generous mouth feel and lingering, balanced aftertaste layering on good acidity through red berry fruit. Good to go now and on to 2023—pick up an armful. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Villa Symposia ‘L’Equilibre’ 2012
AOP Languedoc $22.95 (298620) 14.0% alcohol
This flagship-Cuvée—60% Syrah, 15% Carignan, 15% Cinsault. 7% Grenache, 3% Mourvèdre—was sourced from +30-year-old vines with Syrah and Mourvèdre aging 9-10 months in oak. This winery is moving toward biodynamic production/certification. Rich, rippled with muscle and buttery smooth, it wafts from the glass with lifted aromas of spice cake, cola and graphite robed in black berry fruit. It coats the palate with waves of sweet, ripe mulberry, black currant and wisps of cassis liqueur. Medium-plus bodied with generous mouth feel, it finishes lengthy with persisting replays of fruit adorned with grilled herbs and fennel. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
San Raffaele ‘Monte Tabor’ Pinot Grigio 2014
IGT Veronese $13.95 (204768) 12.0% alcohol
This organically certified Grigio opens with a gorgeous nose of floral notes and tropical fruit before coating the palate with a nicely textured wash of tangy lemon and white grapefruit mingling with white nectarine. It’s light-medium bodied with a lengthy, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Take out of the fridge 20 minutes before serving. The price-quality ratio skews well in your favour; pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

****1/2 drink now
Fontanafredda ‘Ebbio’ Nebbiolo 2013
DOC Langhe $19.95 (397448) 13.5% alcohol
This Barolo look-alike is for impatient wine-lovers—it’s ready to drink after a two-hour aeration/decant. It’s 100% Nebbiolo from sites in Langhe with fruit that saw 8 months in oak—minimum for Barolo is 18 months—and only 2-3 months in bottle. The price point’s very attractive. Floral, cedar and piquant spice aromas set the stage for a wide array of fresh flavours with red fruit—cherry and field berry—to the fore garnished with spice and herbs. It’s deftly balanced and nicely textured with good underpinning and excellent acidity while keeping fruit forward through the lengthy finish. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Amastuola ‘Organic’ Primitivo 2011
IGP Puglia $15.95 (300004) 14.0% alcohol
This certified-organic, 100% Primitivo jumps from the glass with aromas of tobacco, red berry fruit and piquant spice. It bathes the palate with a nuanced wash of red cherry, ripe, dark mulberry and black currant interweaving with notions of cassis and sprigs of herbs. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a firm, dry finish. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours serving with burgers, grilled steak or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Piccini ‘Villa Al Corile’ Brunello Di Montalcino 2009
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $36.95 (164855) 14.0% alcohol
This shows its age with an attractive, brick-hued, orange rim in the glass and developing aromas of cedar, truffles and underbrush interwoven with dried floral notes and savory herbs. It washes over the palate medium bodied and nicely textured with red cherry/berry fruit, fennel and wisps of cloves. It finishes lengthy and balanced with good tang. Pour with hearty fare now—after a three-hour aeration/decant—and on to 2026. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Adanti Sagrantino Di Montefalco 2007
DOCG Umbria $35.95 (424762) 14.5% alcohol
Pipe tobacco, grilled herbs and spice box aromas precede a tsunami wave of full-bore flavour—black, juicy cherry dipped in bittersweet chocolate, kirsch liqueur and dark briary berry adorned with excellent tang and wisps of fine-grained tannin. It’s mid-plus weight with creamy smooth mouth feel and a lengthy, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Pick up a few, drinking nicely now through 2020. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Zeni wine is a ‘Ripasso’. The method for producing Ripasso and Amarone wine is entwined and interesting—for Ripasso, it’s inseparable… read about it here.

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Zeni ‘Marogne’ Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2013
DOC Valpolicella $17.95 (220830) 14.0% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of spice cake, raisin and dark berry fruit unleash a rich, luscious river of black currant, juicy black plum and black Bing cherry garnished with baking spice and dark coffee. Zeni plantings are 60% Corvina, 30% Rondinella, 10% Molinara. This is medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a lengthy finish and aftertaste with an enjoyable, bite on the gorgeous finish and aftertaste. This is exceptional value and quite delicious on its own or with aged hard cheese, osso bucco, roast game. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Tedeschi ‘Capitel Nicalò’ 2013
IGT Rosso delle Venezie $17.95 (984997) 14.0% alcohol
The Vintages catalogue mentions that Tedeschi is one of the best producers of Ripasso… certainly no argument there. However, I’m not certain this is Ripasso; there’s no indication that Amarone skins were added or of a second fermentation. Aromas of raisins, spice and tarry notes make way for a delightful stream of tangy red cherry juxtaposed with dark juicy cherry bathing the palate robed in mocha and notions of vanilla. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

***** drink or cellar
Dominio De Tares ‘Cepas Viejas’ Mencía 2011
DO Bierzo $29.95 (379891) 14.5% alcohol
Fruit for this was sourced from +60-year-old, Mencía bush vines in the ancient wine region of Bierzo spending nine months aging in small, 225L French and American oak barrel. It leaps from the glass with a tapestry of ripe dark berry fruit aroma interwoven with mixed spice, espresso roast and truffles. A medley of dense, dark fruit coat the palate, medium-full bodied and generously textured—sweet ripe mulberry and black currant garnished with dark coffee and roasted herbs. It’s balanced by lip-smacking tang, underpinned by soft tannin and simply delicious. The lingering finish is monumental in length. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
San José de Aguarón ‘Monasterio de Las Viñas’ Reserva 2006

DO Cariñena, Spain $14.95 (166579) 13.0% alcohol

Floral notes, red cherry and incense herald a lively and lovely river of red currant mingling with kirsch liqueur and spice. Value-packed, balanced and charming, it’s mid weight, nicely textured and blessed with a lingering, smoke-infused, berry fruit aftertaste. Pour alongside chorizo and prawn paella. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic, Julie and Susan