Winecurrent

September 15, 2015 Newsletter

Newsletter highlights include:

  • Discovery in the County - Susan Desjardins recently uncovered a hidden-gem winery in Prince Edward County and lets you in on what to expect during a visit and how to lay your hands on their exceptional wine… learn more here.
  • Exceptional value wine Exceptional Value!  – 5 of 57 wines reviewed meet the strict quality-price guidelines, all identified throughout the newsletter—some following the Vintages release—all priced between $7.75 and $16.95. What strict guidelines?  Click here.
  • 5-star Wine – no wine rang the 5-star bell.
  • Finding Waldo – The grape variety is Grillo and it’s indigenous to the country from where this wine hails; it’s also exceptional value at $16.20; pick up a case. 
  • Susan Selects – Château des Charmes ‘St. David’s Bench Vineyard’ Gamay Noir Droit 2012 @ 16.95 earning 4½ stars found under Feature: Ontario Wine
  • Vic Picks – Featherstone Rosé 2014 @ $14.95 earning 4 stars found under Feature: Ontario Wine; Beringer Chardonnay 2013 @ $21.95 earning 4½ stars found under California: White Wine and Palazzo Maffei Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore 2012 earning 4½ stars found under Italy: Red Wine.

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, some stores post earlier. For LCBO wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. It’s always best to phone first.

September 19, 2015 Vintages Release

Feature: Ontario Wine

**** drink now Oh Canada!
Featherstone Rosé 2014

VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (117861) 12.6% alcohol

This ‘Bonomo Vineyard’ blend of Merlot, Gamay, Cabernet Franc bathes the front palate with ripe, off-dry cherry cordial and ripe red plum. On the back palate and aftertaste, a zesty wash of ruby red grapefruit mingles with red currant and spice. It’s a delightful combo successfully juggling plenty of balls. One might call it a ballsy wine with the oomph to pair with a deli board or all manner of charcuterie. Tried mine with home-smoked salmon, sweet onion, capers and cream cheese on a baguette then with duck liver pâté, sweet onion with chutney on ciabatta, both worked well. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now Oh Canada!
Tawse ‘Spark’ Sparkling Wine Brut 2012

VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (384966) 12.5% alcohol

This was made in the traditional method, similar to Champagne. Plenty here to spark your interest—an alluring nose of delicate floral and mineral notes, a profusion of small-bead bubbles and delightful mouthful of soft, lime cordial, white peach and tangy lemon. A luscious blend of 59% Chardonnay, 28% Pinot Noir, 13% Pinot Gris bathes the palate and lingers on the finish, crisp, lively and refreshing. Pour solo or with seafood; it’s quite good value. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Stratus ‘Wildass Red’ 2012
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $19.95 (86363) 13.1% alcohol
Enticing aromas of floral notes, dark berry fruit and black licorice open the floodgates to a balanced and fruit-driven river of flavour with black briary berry, dark cherry and toasty oak to the fore. It’s mid weight with good structure and mouth feel and nicely balanced finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside grilled steak or smoked, grilled and season-rubbed back ribs (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Norman Hardie ‘County Unfiltered’ Pinot Noir 2013
VQA Prince Edward County $39.00 (125310) 10.9% alcohol
Lilac and rose petal aromas mingle with sandalwood and hints of fennel on the nose of this impressive County Pinot. It glides over the palate with style, grace, delicate weight and flavour—passion fruit and red briary berry garnished with wisps of pie cherry. It’s balanced on a pin and quite a lovely wine to sip—amazing that this much can be gained from such low alcohol… learn more. Hats off to Norm Hardie for the meticulous handling of fruit in the vineyard and winery. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now Oh Canada!
Rockway Meritage 2012
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (388264) 13.8% alcohol
Savory herb and berry fruit aromas provide segue for a medium-bodied, nicely textured wash of red and black cherry and mixed field berry fruit adorned with grilled herbs, red-fruit racy acidity and soft, fine-grained tannin. Give this a go with pasta in tomato sauce or meat-lovers pizza.

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Cave Spring ‘Indian Summer Select Late Harvest’ Riesling 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (415901) 375 mL 12.5% alcohol
A true treasure, if you haven’t given this a try, I can’t encourage you strongly enough. Not an icewine, but grapes from the VQA sub-appellation of Lincoln Lakeshore were hand picked and pressed while partially frozen. It pours well with pan-seared spiced pâté, aged hard cheese, foie gras or fruit flan. Perfumed aromas of apricot, herbs and spice, honeyed pit fruit and lemony citrus herald a delightful flow of poached pear, peel marmalade and lemon-pie filling juxtaposed with a balancing, tangy line of racy citrus keeping it far from cloying on the finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Featherstone ‘Black Sheep’ Riesling 2014

VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (80234) 9.5% alcohol

This over-achieving flagship Featherstone Riesling is always on the mark—hand picked, hand sorted and whole-bunch pressed, it delivers a world of value, pin-point balance and purity of fruit throughout. Aromas of green apple and citrus peel introduce a persistent, sweet-tinged river of peach, green apple and lemon zest. It’s mid-weight with good mouth feel and lengthy, clean, crisp and refreshing finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside smoked, grilled duck breasts with spicy fruit condiment. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Oh Canada!
13th Street Gamay Noir 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (177824) 13.0% alcohol
Charred oak and grilled herb aromas dominate the nose of this easy-drinking, medium-weight Gamay. Sweet ripe fruit sweeps across the palate with black currant and juicy black Bing cherry interwoven with mixed spice and espresso roast. It’s wonderfully textured and well balanced with a long, lip-smacking aftertaste. It’s good to pour now and pairs nicely when slightly chilled and served with baguette, mixed charcuterie and cheese platter. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now Oh Canada! Exceptional Value!
Château des Charmes ‘St. David’s Bench Vineyard’ Gamay Noir Droit 2012
VQA St. David’s Bench, Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (346742) 13.0% alcohol
Paul Bosc propagated this unique Canadian vinifera clone; it offers intensity and depth of flavour. Infused with rich aromas of sun-ripened black and red currant, hints of smoke, lavender and spice add further enticement. Dry, medium bodied and structured with ripe tannin and fresh texture, it bathes the palate with ripe fruit flavours from a warm vintage. Tangy and lively with a measured touch of spicy toast and a dash of pepper, it finishes dry and fruity. It’s versatile and well paced offering great value. Pour with barbequed pork, ribs or chicken. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Reif Vidal Icewine 2013
VQA Niagara River, Niagara Peninsula $24.95 200 mL (544791) 10.0% alcohol
Apricot, truffles and honeyed pear on the nose, this coats the palate with a glorious wash of peel marmalade, apricot and piquant spice along with notions of lemon curd and a fruit bowl of honey-dipped tropical fruit. It cleans up nicely on the back palate and aftertaste with good, balancing acidity and tang to the rescue allowing following sips to be as enjoyable as the previous. Pour with aged Gouda or pan-seared foie gras. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Keint-He ‘Voyageur’ Pinot Noir 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.00 (373407) 12.5% alcohol
Hand-picked fruit from 5 sites in Niagara were fermented and barrel-aged separately via 12 months in French oak before bottling. Piquant spice, wisps of grilled herbs and red berry fruit herald a structured, tang-laden river of sour cherry and red raspberry bathing the palate, infusing the lengthy finish. It’s medium bodied with decent texture and notions of mocha on the aftertaste. Pour with lamb ragout. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Oh Canada!
Rosehall Run ‘Hungry Point Unoaked Chardonnay’ 2014

VQA Prince Edward County $19.95 (401208) 13.0% alcohol

Enjoy the lovely aromas offered by this stainless-steel fermented Chard—sugar-coated almonds, apple/pear tart and fresh citrus. Dry, medium bodied, you’ll find good balance, weight and presence on the palate. There are zippy notes of green apple, juicy grapefruit, grapefruit zest and almond kernel offering a lip-smacking taste experience. Clean and fresh in texture, pour with creamy pasta or sole almandine. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Calamus ‘Barrel Kissed’ Chardonnay 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (330613) 12.3% alcohol
Lively aromas of sweet vanilla, baking spice, apple and pear herald an oak-tinged wash of lemon and grapefruit tang robed in spiced apple and pear. It’s medium-plus bodied with good texture and long finish infused with orchard fruit and oaky notes. Good now, better in six months when the oak integrates. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Sake

****1/2 drink now
Homare Nigori Strawberry Saké
Fukushima Prefecture, Japan $21.75 500 mL (384776) 7.0% alcohol
This blend of lo-alcohol sake and strawberry fruit coats the palate with a delightful mouthful of strawberry milkshake. One would be hard-pressed, if tasting blind, to detect the alcohol; it’s simply delicious. Serve chilled or over ice, making certain to shake the bottle well before pouring. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

**** drink or cellar
Antech Réserve Brut Blanquette de Limoux 2012

AOC Limoux $17.95 (656470) 12.5% alcohol

You just can’t go wrong with Blanquette de Limoux, the original sparkling wine. This award-winning vintage Réserve Brut is no exception! Produced in the Traditional Method (as Champagne) from the Mauzac grape, it’s aromas of lees and white flowers, citrus and orchard fruit replay on the palate, lifted by a fine, long-lasting mousse and a mouth-watering texture. The lively flavours sing through the clean fresh finish. A great value to enjoy with anything! (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Keint-He ‘Portage’ Pinot Noir 2013
VQA Prince Edward County $30.00 (373415) 12.0% alcohol
Fruit was hand harvested from four estate vineyards, processed individually, aged ten months in French barrique with 25% new then blended. Earthy aromas interweave with cedar and red berry fruit introducing a solid line of pie cherry and passion fruit nicely balanced with ripe bramble berry flavour. It’s both stylish and purposeful with great purity of fruit persistent throughout. Mid weight and nicely textured, it dishes up a balanced, lingering finish and aftertaste, fruit-forward and flecked with mineral notes and sprigs of savory herbs. (Vic Harradine)

Okanagan Valley: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Church & State Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
VQA Okanagan Valley $28.95 (307512) 12.5% alcohol
This stylish and well-focused red aged 18 months in French oak barrel with 60% new. Delicate aromas of floral and spice introduce a tangy, juicy flow of red currant and cranberry melding with darker fruit—black currant and blueberry—interwoven with mocha and earthy notes. It’s medium-plus bodied with good mouth feel and a tangy, lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour alongside spaghetti Bolognese or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Beringer Chardonnay 2013
Napa Valley $22.95 (84988) 14.5% alcohol
Fruit was sourced from various plots in southern Napa valley. This opens with floral notes, pit fruit and ripe apple aromas before caressing the palate with a crisp, clean wave of lemon curd and blood orange, Granny Smith apple and notions of honey-dipped pear. It’s medium-full bodied with silky mouth feel and lingering tang-laden zesty finish. Pour on its own or with prawn bisque. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Bonterra Viognier 2013
Mendocino County $19.95 (128900) 14.5% alcohol
Citrus, floral notes and ripe pit fruit aromas abound. A lovely surge of white peach, lemon-pie filling and caramel apple coats the palate, medium weight with very generous mouth feel. This is nicely balanced and quite charming, finishing in a blaze of crisp, refreshing, lemony tang. Fetzer harvests and ferments only organic fruit. Pour with poached sole or pan-seared scallops. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Talbott ‘Kali Hart’ Chardonnay 2013
Monterey County $27.95 (46417) 14.5% alcohol
The Chardonnay for this rich, dense gem was sourced from 100% estate, single-vineyard plot. It’s all sweet vanilla and buttered toast on the nose heralding a rich river of tropical fruit and racy lemon citrus robed in oaky notes. Medium-full bodied with generous texture, it lingers on the finish with fine acidity and wisps of apple. Pour with a pan-seared freshwater fish, bass or pickerel would be lovely. (Vic Harradine)

Oregon: White Wine

****1/2 drink now
Ponzi Pinot Gris 2014
Willamette Valley $26.95 (421131) 13.1% alcohol
Citrus, honeyed apple and pear aromas fill the room from this Willamette Valley gem—it’s will-a-mitt, dammitt. There’s a medium-bodied, nicely textured river of lemon-citrus tang interlaced with green apple and tropical fruit bathing the palate; clean, crisp and refreshing. This is stylish and structured, balanced and beautiful. Sip on its own or pour with fettuccini Alfredo. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Brazin ‘(B)old Vine’ Zinfandel 2012
Lodi $19.95 (256750) 14.5% alcohol
These thick, gnarled, 30- to 100-year-old vines are untrellised and head-trained a.k.a. bush vines, resembling a shrub or goblet, not always in neat rows; they defy machine-harvesting. Ripe, dark berry fruit aromas on the nose with hints of baking spice introduce a full-bodied, fully textured surge of spice-laden cherry, blueberry and bramble berry on the palate and lengthy aftertaste. It’s good to go now and pours well with grilled skirt steak. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Fuse Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Napa Valley $42.95 (214817) 14.5% alcohol
Vanilla, dark berry fruit and spice box aromas set the table for a smorgasbord of flavour with black currant and ripe mulberry interwoven with dark bittersweet chocolate, black licorice and mocha. It’s medium bodied with silky-smooth texture and lengthy, balanced finish and aftertaste supported by tangy acidity and soft, fine-grained tannin. Give this a go with thick, grilled steak. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
J. Lohr ‘Seven Oaks’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Paso Robles $14.95 375 mL (313817) 13.5% alcohol
This is little brother to the 750 mL Vintages Essentials red. The fruit—75% Cab Sauv, 7% Petite Sirah, 7% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot,1% Cab Franc, 3% other red—spent 12 months aging in primarily toasted-head, American oak barrel. Oodles of sweet, dark flavours coat the palate with vanilla and spice infusing black currant and juicy black cherry. It’s fruit forward and hedonistic with enough acidity and soft tannin to hold it together, balanced and beautiful. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

Napa Valley $24.95 (73817) 13.5% alcohol

There’s more to this red blend than meets the eye—93% Cab Sauv, 4% Merlot, 2% Malbec, 1% Petit Verdot spending over 14 months aging in French and American oak. It leaps from the glass with perfumed aromas of dark berry and mocha preceding a nicely textured wash of black currant and juicy black cherry interwoven with mint and dark bittersweet chocolate. It finishes balanced and fruity. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Marimar ‘Mas Cavalls’ Pinot Noir 2012
Doña Margarita Vineyard, Sonoma Coast $44.95 (368316) 14.2% alcohol
This stylish Pinot showcases purity of fruit, good pace and balance throughout. It bathes the palate with bramble berry and juicy black Bing cherry melding with mixed spice and hints of mocha and sweet vanilla. Mid weight with good mouth feel, it replays flavours on the lingering finish and aftertaste along with more than its fair share of charm. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Sebastiani Zinfandel 2012
Sonoma County $19.95 (672667) 14.5% alcohol
This—84.1% Zinfandel, 7.6% Petite Sirah, 3.8% Syrah, 3% Malbec, 1.5% Alicante Bouchet… whew—red was aged just under ten months in new and seasoned, French and Hungarian oak barrel. Lifted aromas of toasty oak and dark cherry open the door to a medium-plus bodied, generously textured, complex stream of pie cherry and black raspberry mingling with charred toast and peppery spice. There’s good structure, plenty of fruit and a long finish in this value-packed gem. Pick up a few for steak, burgers and beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

**** drink now
Bodega Achával Ferrer Malbec 2013
Mendoza $25.95 (24737) 14.0%alcohol
The Achával-Ferrer winery was founded, and now successfully run, by a group of close friends. Malbec is often considered the jewel in Argentina’s wine crown—the bottle label describes this as a Malbec with ‘typicity’. Heady aromas and flavours of red and black berry and plum with herbal tobacco notes make this an easy-drinking red with medium body, smooth texture and a bone-dry finish. Soft tannin replays on the fruit-filled, savory-infused aftertaste. This makes for a great pizza wine. (Julie Stock)

**** drink or cellar
Cristobal ‘1492 – Barrel Selection’ Shiraz 2012
Mendoza $15.95 (236133) 14.0% alcohol
Dark and inky, the plums practically leap from the glass against a background of black pepper and some savoury spice. Black fruits come forward on the palate, creamy and rounded in a warm, mildly tannic finish. It’s a sitting-around-the-fire wine, grazing on charcuterie, stinky cheese and nachos. It’s all good. (Julie Stock)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Finca Flichman Expresiones ‘Reserve’ Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Mendoza $15.95 (17111) 14.5% alcohol
A blend of 60% Shiraz/40% Cabernet Sauvignon, this brings out the best in both. There are delicious red and black fruit flavours plus woodsy, earthy notes on the palate. A peppery menthol seam runs through the firm backbone with some sweet and savory spice on the finish. Pour with roast on a spit or foiled in the barbecue. This is at a terrific price point and can be enjoyed summer or winter over the next three years—stock up. (Julie Stock)

Chile: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Carmen Gran Reserva Syrah 2012
Apalta, Colchagua Valley, $17.95 (301903) 14.5% alcohol
Hand-harvested, estate-grown fruit was aged 10 months in oak barrel—90% French, 10% American. Inky black in colour, this is fruit forward with flecks of pepper. Layers of black berries interweave with soft, fine-grained tannin on the palate and fairly firm aftertaste. It’s balanced, bone dry and satisfying; it’s a delicious match for any grilled meat. (Julie Stock)

**** drink or cellar
Crucero Reserva Carmenère 2013
Colchagua Valley $14.95 (237859) 14% alcohol
A small—25%—portion of this Carmenère spent 3 months in American oak. A luscious deep ruby in the glass, it delivers woodsy, smoky aromas amongst a field of blueberries. There’s lots of black fruit on the palate with a touch savory eventually opening up with roasted coffee, spice and a little mocha on the finish. Before the snow covers your barbecue, this value-packed red would go really well with sausage-laden portobello mushroom caps. (Julie Stock)

Australia: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Penfolds Bin 2 Shiraz/Mataro 2013
Barossa Valley $24.95 (468629) 14.5% alcohol
Penfolds has been model of consistency throughout its long history producing quality-driven, value-laden wine at every price point, vintage after vintage. These numbered ‘Bin’ wines originated for identification of wine stored in particular racks or bins eventually being included on the label. This Barossa Valley Shiraz, Mataro—a.k.a. Mourvèdre—blend is a rich, deep-garnet-coloured gem with lifted aromas of assertive dark fruit. Satiny smooth in the mouth, the full-bodied dark fruit is well balanced between noticeable tannin and a lengthy tangy ending. It’s simply delicious—try prune- and nut-stuffed pork tenderloin with scalloped potatoes. (Julie Stock)

France: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Hecht & Bannier Côtes du Roussillon-Villages 2012
AOC Côtes du Roussillon-Villages $24.95 (142802) 14.5% alcohol
Hecht & Bannier are Languedoc-Roussillon negociants sourcing premium fruit from carefully selected growers and sites. This opens with lifted aromas of red berry fruit, piquant spice and herbs. Bramble berry, cola and cassis blanket the palate along with tangy pie cherry and gamy notes. It’s medium-full bodied and creamy smooth with a lingering aftertaste of peppery spice and dark berry underpinned by fine-grained tannin and lip-smacking tang. (Vic Harradine)

Germany: White Wine

**** drink now
Villa Wolf Pinot Blanc 2014
Qualitätswein, Pfalz $14.95 (374959) 12.5% alcohol
This 249-year-old Pfalz winery fell into fairly recent disrepair and was rescued in 1996 by Ernst Loosen of Dr. Loosen Estate fame. This is an entry-level Pinot with Estate and neighbouring-grower fruit in the bottle, turning out to be value-laded and tasty. Aromas and flavours of flinty/minerality, racy citrus and melon along with apple, pear and peach glide over the palate, light-medium weight with good acidity and a crisp, clean, refreshing finish. (Vic Harradine)

Greece: White Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Atlantis ‘Dry White’ 2014
PGI Cyclades, Santorini $17.95 (371658) 13.0% alcohol
This is fashioned from an autochthonous blend a.k.a. local or indigenous—90% Assyrtiko, 5% Aidani, 5% Athiri. Flint, floral and citrus on the nose, it bathes the palate with a delicate wash of lemon-lime zest, nutty notes and wisps of piquant spice. It’s crisp and lip-smacking good through the tangy finish. Pour with pan-seared or grilled, fish or seafood. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

**** drink now
Banfi ‘Principessa Gavia’ Gavi 2014
DOCG Piedmont $19.95 (250696) 12.0% alcohol
This was produced from 100% Cortese fruit—indigenous to Piedmont and sourced from a single vineyard. Alluring aromas of lychee fruit, mango and floral notes are precursor to a surge of white grapefruit, lemon-lime and yellow peach bathing the palate, infusing the lip-smacking, crisp finish. It’s light on its feet and terrific with seasoned, grilled calamari. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Fontanafredda ‘Raimonda’ Barbera d’Alba 2013
DOC Barbera d’Alba $16.95 (23135) 13.5% alcohol
Barbera is indigenous to Italy, a grape whose fortune has begun to shine in the last ten years as a result of warmer climate and tighter control on yields. Wood smoke and floral on the nose, it streaks over the palate with great tang and tension. Red currant and pie cherry mingle with baking spice and notions of forest floor on the palate, finish and aftertaste. This pours and pairs well with pasta in tomato sauce, lasagna or pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Capanna Brunello Di Montalcino 2009
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $44.95 (378513) 14.5% alcohol
This is showing some age with an orange-tinged hue. Piquant spice, cedar and brandy-like aromas leap from the glass prior to coating the palate with a serious, complex river of red currant and pie cherry coupled with black plum compote and peppery spice. It’s mid-full weight with textured mouth feel, solid tannin underpinning and dry finish and aftertaste. It’s ready to go now; pour with seasoned, grilled beefsteak. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Carpineto ‘Reserva’ Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2009
DOCG Vino Nobile di Montepulciano $29.95 (368910) 13.5% alcohol

Aromas of pipe tobacco and grilled herbs provide segue for a smooth, balanced entry of red cherry, cranberry and black currant on the palate. It’s medium bodied with decent texture and a racy dry finish of red and dark berry fruit along with sprigs of herbs. Pour alongside osso bucco or spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Giacomo Mori ‘Castelrotto’ Chianti Riserva 2010
DOCG Chianti $27.95 (180026) 13.0% alcohol
This 90% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot red blend aged 24 months in oak barrique and barrel. Mixed spice and savory herbs herald a tangy stream of passion fruit and red cherry/berry fruit interweaving with black licorice, wild herbs and spice. It’s mid weight and racy throughout infusing the lip-smacking finish. Serve with spicy pastitsio. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Santa Margherita Chianti Classico 2011
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (91694) 13.5% alcohol
Gorgeous aromas of spice box, dark coffee and truffle announce a light-on-its-feet flow of palate-bathing red and black currant garnished with herbs. Perceptible tannin dominates the dry finish and aftertaste. Aerate/decant three hours serving with meat-laden pizza or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Scacciadiavoli Montefalco Rosso 2011
DOC Montefalco $20.95 (372458) 15.0% alcohol
This unique red blend—60% Sangiovese, 25% Merlot, and 15% Sagrantino—opens with delicate aromas of spice box, red and dark berry fruit. It dishes up structured waves of dark berry fruit, black plum compote and espresso roast on the palate joined by flecks of grilled herbs, piquant spice and fine-grained tannin on the mid-length finish. It’s good to pour now with red pizza or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Palazzo Maffei Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore 2012
DOC Valpolicella Ripasso $18.95 (338913) 14.5% alcohol
Tobacco, dark coffee and spice cake aromas show the way to a creamy smooth wash of dense flavours with red and black currant and juicy black cherry to the fore. It’s medium-plus bodied with good acidity and soft tannin adding balance and structure. More of the same echoes on the lengthy finish and aftertaste. There’s very good value here. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Remo Farina ‘Le Pezze’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2012
DOCG Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico $36.95 (171587) 15.5% alcohol
Rich aromas of wood smoke, dark berry fruit and sandalwood abound. This is rich, dense, full bodied and creamy smooth. Flavours of ripe mulberry and tangy red and black cherry interweave with notions of tar and truffles washing over the palate in waves. This is structured and balanced with a firm dry finish that’s lingering and lip-smacking good. As Amarone prices go, this is terrific value; scoop up a few for delectable drinking now to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

Republic of Macedonia

**** drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Stobi Vranec 2012
Tikves, Republic of Macedonia $13.95 (317297) 14.5% alcohol
This is inky/opaque with classic typicity—it’s sweet and fruit laden with bramble berry and black currant jam adorned with bittersweet chocolate, baking spice and dark coffee with an Amarone-like bite on the firm finish. Vranec, a.k.a. Vranac, is indigenous to the area. For lovers of this style of red, it’s certainly worth stocking up. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Ardal ‘Reserva’ 2006 

DO Ribera del Duero $21.95 (167700) 14.5% alcohol 

Black licorice, dried, dark berries and leather aromas herald a full-bodied, fully flavoured stream of flavours—cassis, espresso roast and dark chocolate-dipped black cherries to the fore. It’s medium-weight with good mouth feel, balance and plenty of charm. It’s well structured and has the oomph, from a ripe tannin underpinning, to pair well with osso bucco or rare-grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine) 

***1/2 drink or cellar
Valdemar ‘Inspiración Selección’ 2010 

DOCa Rioja $19.95 (166512) 14.0% alcohol 

Dark coffee and black cherry aromas provide segue for a linear streak of tang-laden flavour—red cherry, red currant and cranberry—that stream over the palate, infusing the warm, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. It’s medium bodied and full of nerve and verve. Pour alongside spaghetti Bolognese or meat lasagne. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Yaso ‘Tinto de Toro’ 2012
DO Toro $22.95 (377499) 14.0% alcohol
Tinto de Toro translates to Tempranillo in the Toro region and this grape is generally thought to be indigenous to Spain. Baking spice, stewed prune and black plum on the nose, this bursts onto the palate with a hedonistic surge of ripe and über-ripe black fruit—cherry, plum and bramble berry jam. It’s full bodied and fully textured, a fruit bomb for certain, and will find many fans. Fruit and wisps of kirsch liqueur persist through the finish and aftertaste. Pour with grilled back ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO

**** drink or cellar
Chateau Canteloup Médoc 2012
AOC Médoc, France $19.65 (420000) 13.5% alcohol
This left bank, 55% Merlot/45% Cabernet Sauvignon blend is a bit of an anomaly—left bank wines are usually Cabernet Sauvignon dominant, we’ll mark this ambidextrous. There’s a world of value in this Bordeaux beauty; aromas of charred toast and exotic incense open the floodgates to a creamy smooth mid-weight river of black currant and black raspberry entwined with dark bittersweet chocolate and bits of tar. It finishes balanced and lengthy. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Tini Romagna Sangiovese 2013

DOC Romagna, Italy $7.75 (179432) 12.0% alcohol

Here’s a nifty number punching well above its price—it’s light on its feet with red fruit flavour and plenty of tang. Aromas of red berry fruit and wisps of tobacco dominate the nose on this northern-Italian red. It races over the palate with red currant and cranberry flavour mingling with pie cherry and ripe red plum infusing the mid-lengthy, dry, aftertaste. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce, pizza or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

Purchase the following wine in person at their Niagara-on-the-Lake winery or in their Ottawa or Toronto retail store, or online by the two-bottle minimum for daily home, restaurant or office delivery from Château des Charmes.

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Château des Charmes Vidal Icewine 2014 (200ml)
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $25.95 (565861) 9.0% alcohol
The luscious aromas fairly leapt from the bottle as the cork was pulled—fresh-cut nectarine and apricot, poached pear, candied citrus zest and creamed honey. Underlying the ripe, rich flavours of stone fruit, tangerine, and crème caramel is the finely honed, understated backbone of clean acidity that shows the deft hand of the winemaker balancing the yin and yang, the sweet and the fresh. There’s lovely weight and roundness on the palate, extended length and a tangy lift on the finish. Simply delicious. Savour a sip on its own, or serve with an apricot tart, or with grilled peaches and soft artisan cheese. (Susan Desjardins)

Discovery in the County - Susan Desjardins recently uncovered this hidden-gem winery in Prince Edward County and lets you in on what to expect during a visit and how to lay your hands on their exceptional wine… learn more here.

****1/2 drink now Oh Canada!
Hubbs Creek Pinot Gris 2014
VQA Prince Edward County $21.95 12.5% alcohol
Made in the Alsatian style, this dry, light-medium bodied wine offers enticing aromas of pear, citrus, melon and mineral. Produced from the fruit of 15-year-old densely planted vines, it’s crisp and bright, showing roundness and purity in the ripe fruit flavours as well as the classic mineral character of County wine. Well structured, vibrant in texture, the clean finish seems never-ending. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Hubbs Creek Pinot Noir 2012
VQA Prince Edward County $31.95 12.0% alcohol
From the wonderfully warm 2012 vintage, this Burgundian-style wine is a great find for Pinot-philes. Its sister wine—the now sold-out ‘Reserve’—won a silver medal in the All-Canada Wine Championships. The nose offers subtle, complex aromas of red berries, Morello cherry, earth, mineral and a whiff of spice. Dry, medium bodied and beautifully silky in texture, the notion of cinnamon toast on the palate is witness to twelve months aging in seasoned French oak. This tightly wrought red displays intensity in the ripe red berry, cherry and currant flavours, and in the well-defined structure of subtle tannin and bright acidity. Finely crafted and elegant, finishing long and dry, you’ll enjoy sipping this Pinot with a mushroom and Brie tart or with grilled steelhead trout. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now Oh Canada!
Hubbs Creek Chardonnay 2014
VQA Prince Edward County $27.95 12.0% alcohol
Fresh from being bottled, this needs a bit of time to settle, try in a month or two. Produced from fruit of seven-year-old vines—20% fermented in seasoned French oak—it offers notes of apple and citrus, hints of pear and toasted nut. It’s dry, medium bodied with tangy and pithy flavours of grapefruit, lemon-lime and green apple to the fore. The texture is zesty, the finish long and dry. Enjoy with halibut and lemon-caper cream sauce or seafood pasta. (Susan Desjardins).

New in Private Order

• Order the following wines, and those recently reviewed in the September 1 newsletter, by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario from VinoLuna wine agency. Contact via website, VinoLuna, by Email:  This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it., or in the GTA phone 416 587-6691.

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
CVA Canicatti ‘Acanteo’ Grillo 2014
IGP Terre Siciliani, Italy $16.20 12.5% alcohol
Grillo is widely planted in Sicily as it’s highly resistant to hot weather—it can also turn out fine wine such as this. Involved aromas of honeysuckle, tropical fruit and baked apple herald a delicious mouthful of zesty lemon, ripe white peach and nutty notes coating the palate with medium-bodied, creamy-smooth mouth feel. It finishes crisp and refreshing with notions of grapefruit and ripe pineapple. Sip or pour with white pizza adorned with smoked salmon and fresh dill. Terrific value, pick up a few. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
CVA Canicatti ‘Acanteo’ Nero d’Avola 2013
IGP Terre Siciliani, Italy $16.20 14.0% alcohol
Nero d’Avola is indigenous to Italy, often compared favourably to warm-climate, new-world Shiraz. This value-packed gem aged gracefully for three months in French barrique. The deep, rich, purple-hued liquid leaps from the glass with aromas of red and dark cherry/berry fruit adorned with exotic spice. Medium-plus bodied and silky smooth, it flows over the palate with minty-edged dark cherry and peppery black plum. It finishes balanced, lengthy and lip-smacking good. Pour with lasagna or steak. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Susan, Julie, Vic