Winecurrent
September 1, 2015 Newsletter

LCBO LABOUR DAY CLOSINGS
All LCBO stores will be closed on Labour Day, Monday, September 7 and resume business on Tuesday, September 8, 2015. Many LCBO stores in cottage and resort areas will have extended evening hours on Friday, September 4. All LCBO stores will observe their normal business hours on Saturday, September 5 and Sunday, September 6. Some agency stores may be open on Labour Day.


Customers should check for individual store hours with their local LCBO store or online at www.lcbo.com using the 'Store Search' feature. With the exception of Labour Day, they can also contact the toll-free, bilingual helloLCBO at 1-800-ONT-LCBO (668-5226) or online at www.helloLCBO.com. All LCBO offices, including LCBO Customer Service and the helloLCBO Contact Centre, will be closed on Labour Day. 

Newsletter highlights include:

  • Exceptional value wine Exceptional Value!  – 5 of 36 Vintages Release wines reviewed meet the strict quality-price guidelines, all identified throughout the newsletter—there are also five following the Vintages release, with all priced between $12.75 and $17.00. There are 49 wines reviewed in total. What strict guidelines?  Click here.
  • 5-star Wine – two wines earned 5-stars; Ridge ‘Monte Bello’ 2012 @ $190.95 found under California: Red Wine; and Ferdinando ‘Principiano Del Comune Di Serralunga D’Alba’ Barolo 2010 @ $44.95 found under Italy: Red Wine’
  • Vic Picks –d’Arenberg ‘The Hermit Crab’ Viognier/Marsanne 2013 earning 4½ stars @ $19.95 under Australia: Red Wine; Dezzani ‘La Guardia - Rosso’ Dolcetto, Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 earning 4½ stars @ $16.25 and La Canosa ‘Signator’ 2013 earning 4½ stars @ $17.00, both under New in Private Order.

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, some stores post earlier. For LCBO wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. It’s always best to phone first.

Vintages Release; September 5, 2015

Feature: Unique and Esoteric Wines

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Schola Sarmenti ‘Roccamora Nardo’ Negroamaro 2006
DOC Nardo $16.95 (379768) 13.5% alcohol
Lovely aromas of sandalwood and black plum interlace with baking spice and gamy notes on the involved nose. It rolls over the palate in a delectable spice-laden wash of dried-berry fruit, black cherry and hints of black currant concentrate. It showcases good structure, balance and a lingering dry finish. Pick up a few to pour with the grilled steak, burgers or sausage you pull from your barbecue. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now Oh Canada!
Peller Estates ‘Ice Cuvée’ Rosé

VQA Niagara Peninsula $34.95 (113035) 12.0% alcohol

A lovely salmon pink, this versatile sparkler combines Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as the base wine with a dash of icewine. It displays sweet, almost honeyed, red berry fruit on the nose. Just off-dry due to dosage with Cabernet Franc and Vidal icewine, it has a fine, light mousse and replays the lively berry flavours on the palate—think of sun-kissed, field-ripe strawberries and juicy, ripe currant. It’s refreshing with a hint of sweetness that lingers on the finish. This is bound to be a crowd-pleaser. (Susan Desjardins)

• The wine reviewed below found its name from association with the Northern Rhône wine region of France. Marsanne is the major white grape of Hermitage and it's also the main grape in this blend. Hermitage directly translated means "House of the Hermit". Many of McLaren Vale's vineyards are on free-draining soils underlain with limestone, formed by the calcareous remains of local marine fauna. One such creature is the Hermit Crab. The Osborn family thought the name appropriate for this, McLaren Vale's first-ever, in 2007, Viognier/Marsanne blend.

****1/2 drink now
d’Arenberg ‘The Hermit Crab’ Viognier/Marsanne 2013
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (662775) 13.0% alcohol
A fabulous nose of exotic spice, floral notes and a salad bowl of peach, pear and tropical fruit set the table for a palate-bathing flow of lemon pie filling and Key lime interwoven with grilled pineapple, yellow peach and ripe pear. A true work of art, small parcels of fruit were basket-pressed, 3% wild-yeast fermented with 14% of Viognier aged in French and American oak. It’s medium-full bodied with generous mouth feel and a lengthy, lip-smacking finish that layers on wisps of piquant ginger and sugared lemon peel. This is yet another masterpiece from artist/winemaker Chester Osborne. (Vic Harradine)

Feature: Great Wines

****1/2 drink or cellar
Kendall-Jackson ‘Vintner’s Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Sonoma County $22.95 (331603) 13.5% alcohol
This California Cab is balanced nicely between ripe dark fruit, excellent moderating acidity and ripe, soft tannin. Aromas of savory herbs, rich dark berry fruit and toasty notes reach deep into the flavour spectrum on the palate and finish garnished with kirsch liqueur and notions of fennel and spice. It’s medium-plus weight with silky texture and a delectable aftertaste. Pour with grilled rack of lamb or prime-rib roast. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Oh Canada!
Flat Rock Riesling 2014
VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (43281) 9.5% alcohol
This opens with delicate aromas of lemon-lime and floral notes—it’s off dry, fully flavoured and absolutely delicious. A river of Granny Smith apple, tangy white grapefruit and lemon zest interlace with yellow plum, sweet, ripe tropical fruit and notions of flinty minerality on the palate, persisting through the lip-smacking, citrus-laced finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside breaded and pan-seared calamari rings under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

Feature: Accolades and High Scores

• The Jumilla region miraculously escaped phylloxera until the late 1980s when the area was attacked and vines devastated. Like the mythical phoenix rising from ashes, they ripped out vines and replanted, much of it with the indigenous Monastrell, a.k.a. Mourvèdre, along with international varieties. They also, importantly, modernized their viticulture/winemaking practices. Now they’re a go-to region for value-laden, good-quality reds—the wine following, a wonderful example.

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Bodega Alceño ‘Premium 50 Barricas’ Syrah 2012
DO Jumilla $13.95 (398933) 14.5% alcohol
There’s a 15% splash of Monastrell in this buy-me-now, drink-me-now red that spent 6 months in new French and American oak. Dark and alluring in the glass and on the nose, aromas of dark berry fruit, earthiness and spice box set the table for a smorgasbord of rich luscious flavour—black berry, cassis and red currant interweaving with vanilla and dark coffee. It’s mid-plus weight with good mouth feel and a long, fruity and well-balanced aftertaste. A case of this won’t stay around long—pour with burgers, steak, red pizza, ribs or wings. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Hidden Bench Chardonnay 2013
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $28.95 (68817) 13.0% alcohol
This is full-bore Chardonnay showcasing structure, deft balance, purity of fruit and intense flavour—not for the faint of palate. Beginning with a quiet nose of honeyed pit fruit, buttered toast and citrus aromas, it dishes up a full-bodied, fully textured wash of lemon yoghurt, poached pear and ripe apple on the palate. It’s nicely balanced with the fruit and citrus streaming through the finish and aftertaste robed in pithy peach skin and notions of minerality while maintaining good tang throughout—crisp, clean and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Tesselai ‘Old Vines’ Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre 2013
AOP Côtes du Roussillon $17.00 (343517) 14.5% alcohol
Red-wine lovers will be hard pressed to find a better bargain than this—pick up a few. This southern-Rhône Valley 40% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 20% Mourvèdre red blend leaps from the glass with lifted aromas of black currant, piquant spice and black licorice. It’s mid weight with good texture, balance and charm. Palate-bathing flavours abound with juicy black cherry, bramble berry and earthy/gamy notes to the fore. It finishes lengthy with replay of flavours and a boatload of value. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
La Crema Chardonnay 2013
Los Carneros, Sonoma County $39.95 (184929) 14.5% alcohol
Early morning, hand-picked fruit was whole-cluster pressed and fermented in 100% French oak with full malolactic conversion then left on lees 10 months with batonage; a.k.a. lees stirring. Textured, intense and luscious, this opens with aromas of nutty/toasty notes, spice and citrus. A medium-full bodied, nicely textured, slightly off-dry river of baked apple and pear melds with baking spice and lemon pie filling on the palate, persisting through the lingering zest-laden finish. Pour with roast bird with all the fixings or roast pork. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Ontario: White Wine

**** drink now Oh Canada!
Cave Spring ‘Estate Bottled’ Chardonnay Musqué 2013
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (246579) 13.5% alcohol
And now for something completely different—a clone of Chardonnay known for its heady, perfume-like aromas. This opens with room-filling aromas of orange blossom, fresh-grape nuances and a distinctive musk-like perfume. A surge of viscous, slightly off-dry ambrosia coats the palate with white nectarine and tropical fruit interwoven with Meyer lemon and notions of peach skin. It’s mid-full weight with generous mouth feel and a lingering balanced aftertaste with just enough acidity to keep it crisp and refreshing. Another triumph for Cave Spring Cellars and winemaker extraordinaire, Angelo Pavan. Sip on its own or pair with grilled or pan-seared seafood. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now Oh Canada!
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Chardonnay 2013

VQA Short Hills Bench $19.95 (268342) 13.5% alcohol

Barrel fermented and aged, this golden beauty offers well-balanced aromas of orchard and tropical fruit, buttered toast and vanilla. Dry, medium-full bodied, showcasing a lush, creamy texture, the well-defined backbone of lively acidity accents flavours of ripe pear, pineapple and tangerine. Pleasantly spicy, zesty and refreshing on the finish, it’s finely honed to deliver harmony and delight. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
13th Street ‘Red Palette’ 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (249458) 13.0% alcohol
Piquant spice, sandalwood and red berry fruit aromas announce a lively, juicy streak of pie cherry and red currant interwoven with spice and earthy notes. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a lingering aftertaste that layers on savory herbs and soft tannin underpinning, racy and lip-smacking good. Pour alongside meat-laden pizza or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Okanagan Valley: White Wine

**** drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Dirty Laundry ‘Not So Knotty’ Chardonnay 2013
VQA Okanagan Valley $19.95 (353144) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of musky spice and ripe pineapple open this unoaked, gold-medal winner at the recent 2015 All Canadian Wine Championships. It coats the palate with a creamy-smooth, off-dry river of sweet, ripe tropical fruit, grilled pineapple and candied apple. It’s medium-full bodied with a sweet-tinged finish and aftertaste showing bare wisps of citrus tang. This pours well with spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

**** cellar
Franciscan Chardonnay 2013
Napa Valley $24.95 (496125) 13.5% alcohol
Toasty oak and baking spice dominate the nose of this medium-full weight, fully textured Chardonnay. Fruit was sourced from cooler-climate, Carneros vineyards in southern Napa Valley. There’s very good fruit flavour on the palate with ripe pear and apple interwoven with nutty notes and tangy citrus. The finish and aftertaste is garnished with oaky notes. This should handsomely reward a couple of years in the cellar allowing the oak to integrate more fully. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Conundrum Red 2012

California $24.95 (294298) 14.0% alcohol

Mocha, cinnamon and dark cherry/berry aromas reveal a gorgeous gusher of baking spice, rich, dark Bing cherry and ripe briary berry with fine-grain tannin structure and excellent moderating acidity throughout. Mid-full weight with good mouth feel, the finish replays flavours adding notions of sweet vanilla and spice. Aerate/decant for two hours and give this a go with gourmet burgers or grilled steak. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Francis Ford Coppola ‘Director’s Cut’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $34.95 (61002) 13.5% alcohol

Smoke and toast aromas introduce a balanced and structured river of boysenberry and savory spice robed in toasty oak, sweet vanilla and kirsch liqueur. This is mid weight with fleshy mouth feel and long, balanced aftertaste of espresso roast and earthy notes. It’s good to go now with comfort food—burgers or Salisbury steak. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Hess ‘Select’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
North Coast $24.95 (25080) 13.5% alcohol
Much more than a winery, as fabulous as it may be, Donald Hess is a pioneer in sustainable agriculture, a passionate supporter of the arts and an ardent philanthropist. Following some lean vintages, 2012 turned out textbook with near-perfect growing conditions in North Coast. This is rich, luscious, balanced and structured. There are aromas and flavours of dark juicy cherry and cassis interlaced with mint, black licorice and sweet vanilla. It flows over the palate creamy smooth and textured. There’s a savory element on the lengthy finish along with wisps of zesty red cherry. Pour with everything from burgers to steaks. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Kendall-Jackson ‘Vintner’s Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Sonoma County $12.95 (706077) 375 mL 13.5% alcohol
Just the right size for two, this California Cab is balanced nicely between ripe dark fruit, excellent moderating acidity and ripe, soft tannin. Aromas of savory herbs, rich dark berry fruit and toasty notes reach deep into the flavour spectrum on the palate and finish garnished with kirsch liqueur and notions of fennel and spice. It’s medium-plus weight with silky texture and a delectable aftertaste. Pour with grilled rack of lamb or prime-rib roast. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Napa Cellars Zinfandel 2012
Napa Valley $24.95 (126607) 14.9% alcohol
There’s a 13% splash Petit Sirah in this broad-shouldered Zin along with toasty, spicy aromas from 12 months in 71% French and 29% American oak barrel, with 14% new. It coats the palate with a rush of jammy black currant and kirsch liqueur robed in baking spice and wisps of vanilla. Full bodied and nicely textured, there’s a jolt of tannin on the warm finish along with good acidity. Aerate/decant for two hours or tuck away for a year or two pouring with smoked, grilled ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Rancho Zabaco ‘Sonoma Heritage Vines’ Zinfandel 2013

Sonoma County $19.95 (434605) 14.8% alcohol

Here’s a value-packed, spice-laden, fruity Zin with a 7% splash of Petite Sirah that’ll set a hedonistic, Zin-lovers heart ablaze. It leaps from the glass with spice-infused aromas of bramble berry jam before dazzling the palate with a fruity river of ripe, sweet mulberry, black currant and wisps of piquant spice and dark coffee. Medium weight with good mouth feel, it finishes balanced, delectable and fruit forward with each sip as good or better than the previous. (Vic Harradine)

***** cellar
Ridge ‘Monte Bello’ 2012
Santa Cruz Mountains $190.95 (711085) 13.8% alcohol
The marvellous 2012 vintage and Ridge’s impeccable handling of this red blend—64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot—are showcased throughout. Red and black cherry/berry fruit, floral notes and baking spice on the nose, it roars over the palate with dense, luscious flavour—black currant and cherry cordial melding with good moderating acidity and very firm tannin underpinning. It’s balanced and structured with persistent purity of fruit and lingering finish and aftertaste. Drink 2020 to 2030 and beyond. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: White Wine

**** drink now
Boya Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Leyda Valley $14.95 (389726) 12.5% alcohol
There’s a solid line of tangy acidity running through this zesty gem. Aromas of grassy, herbaceous notes mingle with minerality heralding a spirited wash of gooseberry and tangy lime streaking across the palate. Hand-picked fruit with two months of lees contact helped produce this tang-laden, nicely textured white wine. It finishes in a blaze of lemon-lime and racy passion fruit—crisp and refreshing. There’s good value here. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Coopers Creek Pinot Noir 2013
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (57802) 14.0% alcohol
Coopers Creek is just west of Auckland, thirty years young, and still a family-owned winery. Fruit was sourced from two parcels in the Brancott Valley and aged 12 months in oak. Lively aromas of red berry fruit, spice and earthy notes set the stage for a balanced, juicy stream of red and black cherry and passion fruit interlaced with vanilla and sweet, ripe mulberry fruit. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a fruit-forward finish and aftertaste. Pour with chicken tajine with root vegetables and plum tomatoes. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Mulderbosch ‘Faithful Hound’ 2012
WO Western Cape $20.95 (922443) 14.0% alcohol
A red blend of five Bordeaux grapes—29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Cabernet Franc, 21% Merlot; 13% Malbec, 10% Petit Verdot, this was aged 18 months in French oak. Charry, toasty notes and grilled herbs abound on the nose before washing over the palate with ripe dark fruit—mulberry, currant and cherry—mingling with spice and tarry bits. It’s mid weight with good texture and a firm underpinning of still-evolving tannin. Aerate/decant three hours or pull the cork in a year or two. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Pierre Sparr ‘Mambourg’ Pinot Gris 2011
AOC Alsace Grand Cru $24.95 (686451) 12.5% alcohol
Mambourg is one of only 51 Alsatian sites to be awarded ‘Grand Cru’ status; combined, they account for just 4% of total production. This semi-sweet Gris opens with aromas of ripe tropical fruit and floral notes before unleashing a full-flavoured, fully textured blanket of palate-coating ambrosia with honeydew melon, apple crumble and honey-soaked pear. It’s mid weight with a long sweet-tinged finish with wisps of lemon citrus for balance. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Domaine La Haut Févrie Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2015
AOC Muscadet Sèvre et Maine $13.95 (390625) 12.0% alcohol
Hints of smoke and leesy notes mingle with ripe tropical fruit on the nose of this rock-solid 4-star, value-packed beauty. It’s 100% Melon de Bourgogne from 35-year-old vines, hand harvested and left seven months on lees a.k.a. spent yeast cells. It bathes the palate with a nicely textured stream of caramel-tinted baked apple, sharp spice and lemony tang. It’s medium bodied with a lengthy mouth-watering aftertaste—crisp, clean and refreshing. Pour alongside steamed mussels or pan-seared freshwater fish. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Paul Prieur et Fils Sancerre 2014
AOC Sancerre $26.95 (350421) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of sprigs of herbs, lemon citrus and wisps of gunflint on the nose, this delivers a precisely focused stream of lemon zest and Key lime pie with notions of mandarin orange and peach skin. Fruit was hand picked, pressed whole, slowly fermented in stainless steel and aged on lees for 7 months. This has good structure with plenty of nerve and verve throughout. The lip-smacking citrus finish is zesty, crisp and refreshing with a saline/mineral aftertaste. Pour with pan-seared freshwater fish. (Vic Harradine)

France Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Baret 2009
AOC Pessac-Léognan $36.95 (81877) 14.0% alcohol
The spice-driven nose offers up aromas of dark berry fruit and pipe tobacco wrapped in baking spice. It’s rich and dense with dark cherry and cassis joined by baking spice and espresso roast flavours on the palate. Medium-full bodied with firm structure, it’s quite showy and fruit forward finishing with a solid tannin underpinning. Aerate/decant for three hours before serving or better still, wait another 12 months to pull corks. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château de la Rivière 2009
AOC Fronsac $34.95 (653147) 14.0% alcohol
The hi-octane alcohol tells the tale of the vintage—ripe, fruity and stylish. There’s oodles of dark fruit on the nose—currant, cherry, mulberry—that replay on the palate and drive through the monumentally long finish and aftertaste. It has good moderating acidity for balance while dark bittersweet chocolate also swirls over the palate. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and will benefit from a two-hour aeration/decant before pouring. Serve with grilled and seasoned beefsteak. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Le Gravillas Gigondas 2013
AOC Gigondas $22.95 (78808) 14.5% alcohol
This Grenache-predominant red is a bit pricey, but will find friends amongst those who try it. Mocha, spice and dark cherry aromas announce a balanced and structured wave of juicy briary berry, garrigue, a.k.a. local wild herbs, and gamey notes. It’s mid-full weight and textured with a lengthy fruity finish that layers on a solid tannin underpinning. Aerate/decant three hours then serve with seasoned, grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

• Patrick Lesec is an iconic, artisan negociant, carefully choosing premium producers who have prime sites and fruit. He helps manage their vineyard and winemaking regimen and selects the best barrels for bottles that carry his name. In the following Grenache-dominant red blend, nature helps as the ‘galets blond’—rounded stones, strewn by nature about the vineyards—retain the sun’s heat during the day releasing it on vines at night.

****1/2 drink or cellar
Patrick Lesec ‘Galets Blonds’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2012
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $56.95 (78089) 15.0% alcohol
This hi-octane, burly, Grenache-dominant gem flirted with 5-stars—it’s rich, dense and luscious. Aromas of dark juicy berry fruit and exotic spice abound. The incredibly ripe fruit dishes up palate-coating waves of dark briary berry and black cherry interwoven with dark chocolate, black licorice and savoury local herbs, a.k.a. garrigue. This is full bodied and fully textured with a lingering lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Pour now, after a two-hour aeration/decant, and on to 2022. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

***** drink or cellar
Ferdinando ‘Principiano Del Comune Di Serralunga D’Alba’ Barolo 2010
DOCG Barolo $44.95 (210955) 14.5% alcohol
The fruit for this fabulous Barolo—sourced from a 3.5 hectare plot—was wild-yeast fermented 30 days then aged in oak for two years. Sexy aromas of exotic spice, lilac and earthy notes abound. There’s persistent purity of fruit, structure, balance and is absolutely delicious. Red currant, mixed spice and oodles of red cherry flavour bathes the palate infusing the finish. It’s medium-full bodied with creamy smooth mouth feel, stylish and charming with a lengthy, dry finish. Good to go now and on to 2025. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Schola Sarmenti ‘Diciotto’ Primitivo 2008
IGT Salento $29.95 (379842) 18.0% alcohol
Hard to believe there are yeast strains that work in 18% alcohol, but there are. Aromas of cooked dark fruit, spice and mocha herald a medium-full bodied, nicely textured stream of stewed black plum and pie cherry mingling with ripe dark berry fruit. It finishes fruit-forward with nuances of gamy notes and grilled, savoury herbs. Pour with smoked grilled back ribs generously slathered with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Castello Di Querceto Chianti Classico ‘Riserva’ 2011
DOCG Chianti Classico $29.95 (650754) 13.5% alcohol
Espresso roast, baking spice and juicy red berry fruit aromas on the nose introduce a lively stream of flavourful red and black currant, blueberry and cassis on the palate. It’s mid-plus weight and nicely textured with perceptible tannin and a drying finish. Aerate/decant for a couple of hours pouring with pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Abad Dom Bueno Mencía 2008

DO Bierzo $16.95 (291989) 13.5% alcohol

Involved alluring aromas of espresso roast, herbs, spice and dark berry fruit abound on this aged gem. Dense and delicious on the palate, sweet, ripe mulberry and juicy black cherry interweave with notions of black licorice and pipe tobacco. This is full bodied and fully textured with a lingering aftertaste replaying palate flavours with sweet vanilla, from American and French oak ageing, and still-evolving tannin. Aerate/decant three hours or pop corks 2016 and beyond. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: September 19, 2015

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
Château des Charmes Gamay Noir ‘Droit’ 2012
VQA St. David’s Bench $16.95 13.0% alcohol
Mr. Paul Bosc propagated this unique Canadian vinifera clone and it continues to offer great intensity and depth of flavour. Infused with rich aromas of sun-ripened black and red currant; hints of smoke, lavender and spice add further enticement. It’s dry and medium bodied with structure, ripe tannin and fresh texture. This tasty red bathes the palate with the ripe fruit flavours of its warm vintage. Tangy and lively with a measured touch of spicy toast and a dash of pepper, it finishes dry yet fruity. It’s great value, well paced and versatile; it’ll match barbequed pork, ribs or chicken. (Susan Desjardins)

Vintages Release: December 12, 2015

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Henry of Pelham ‘Cuvée Catharine – Carte Blanche - Estate Blanc de Blanc’ 2010
VQA Short Hills Bench $44.95 (315200) 12.5% alcohol
This is a perennial favourite from a quality producer. Hand-harvested, 100% estate Chardonnay was gently whole-cluster pressed, 20% barrel fermented and aged a full 60 months in bottle before being disgorged. A profusion of fine-bead mousse fills the glass freeing delicate aromas of baking brioche, lemon rind and toasty notes. It’s brisk and lively on the palate with a rush of ripe apple and pear garnished with racy grapefruit and peach skin. It’s structured with excellent acidity, great attack on the palate finishing crisp and refreshing with wisps of flinty minerality. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO

• The following Château des Charmes Vidal Icewine is available in select LCBO stores via their ‘Go to Market’ program as well as in person at the winery or their Ottawa or Toronto retail store or online via Château des Charmes for home, office or restaurant delivery in Ontario with a two-bottle minimum shipment.

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Château des Charmes Vidal Icewine 2014 (200ml)
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $25.95 (565861) 9.0% alcohol
The luscious aromas fairly leapt from the bottle at cork pull—fresh-cut nectarine and apricot, poached pear, candied citrus zest and creamed honey. Underlying ripe, rich flavours of stone fruit, tangerine and crème caramel is the finely honed understated backbone of clean acidity showcasing a deft winemaker’s hand balancing the yin and yang, the sweet and the fresh. There’s lovely weight and roundness on the palate, extended length and a tangy lift on the finish. It’s simply delicious—savour a sip on its own or serve with apricot tart or grilled peaches and soft, artisan cheese. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Colio ‘Lily’ Méthode Cuve Close Non-Vintage
VQA Ontario $16.95 (418657) 12.0% alcohol
Fashioned from 100% Riesling grapes, this sparkling wine has a stream of glorious bubbles to go with a light-on-its-feet stream of green apple and lemon citrus flavour with underlying nuances of ripe pit fruit—peach and nectarine. It won a prestigious Silver at the recent 2015 Ontario Wine Awards. This wine’s made in the method of, and with similar fruit to, quality German Sekt. It’s crisp and refreshing on the delightful finish and aftertaste. Lovely sipped as an aperitif or welcoming wine, it also pours well with lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Fantini Farnese ‘Casal Vecchio’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2013
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Italy $10.95 (612788) 13.0% alcohol
Berry fruit, cherries and woodsy aromas herald a mid-full bodied, tang-tinged river of sharp pie cherry and cola laced by savoury grilled herbs, piquant spice underpinned by grainy tannin. It’s nicely textured with a long balanced finish. Pair and pour with lasagna, pasta in tomato sauce or meat-lovers pizza. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now Oh Canada!
Hat Trick ‘NHL Alumni’ Cabernet Merlot 2014
VQA Ontario $14.95 (424663) 13.5% alcohol
Proceeds from each bottle sold will benefit the NHL Alumni Association and its initiatives. Wood smoke, oak and dark cherry aromas swirl from this light-on-its-feet red blend. A delicate wash of pie cherry and red currant interlaced with ripe dark berry fruit bathe the palate. It’s nicely balanced with mid-length finish that’s fruit-driven and tasty. Pour with TSN or Sportsnet, pizza, wings or ribs. (Vic Harradine)

• Receive $2.00 off the regular price shown below for every bottle of Nobilo (415745) purchased now to September 13, 2015. That discount pushes it into the price-quality range tipping well in your favour.

**** drink now
Nobilo ‘Regional Collection’ Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Marlborough, New Zealand $16.95 (415745) 12.5% alcohol
The late Nikola Nobilo, a very early pioneer planting vines near Auckland in 1943, is recipient of an Order of the British Empire for his work in the wine industry. His wife, Zuva, now in her 90s, still lives next to the winery. Aromas of grass and gooseberry mingle with tropical fruit before bathing the palate with a tang-laden wash of lemon-lime interwoven with white peach and pineapple flavour. It’s beautifully balanced, crisp and refreshing with a lip-smacking, citrus finish. Pour with pan-seared fresh water fish or grilled sea food.

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Tavernello ‘Collezione’ Sauvignon 2013

DOC Grave, Friuli, Italy $12.75 (361477) 12.0% alcohol

This Sauvignon Blanc rips from the glass with savory herbs, grassy notes and a mouthful of delicious flavour. Balanced and beautiful it bathes the palate with a persistent wash of spice and herb-laden citrus mingling with passion fruit and a crisp, refreshing tasting experience. It finishes with clean, crisp replays and hints of kiwi fruit. Sip on its own or pour with all manner of light appetizers, especially those with chèvre. (Vic Harradine)

• On September 7, 2015 the price of the following Tini Sangiovese will be reduced to $7.75 for the foreseeable future. That places it in the Exceptional Value! exceptional value category.

***1/2 drink now
Tini Romagna Sangiovese 2013

DOC Romagna, Italy $10.95 (179432) 12.0% alcohol

Here’s a nifty number punching above its weight—it’s light on its feet with red fruit flavour and plenty of tang. Aromas of red berry fruit and wisps of tobacco dominate the nose on this northern Italian red. It streaks over the palate with red currant and cranberry flavour mingling with pie cherry and ripe red plum infusing the mid-lengthy, dry, racy aftertaste. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce, pizza or lasagna. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

• Purchase the following wine in person at the winery or at their Ottawa or Toronto retail store, or online for daily home, restaurant or office delivery via Château des Charmes with a two-bottle minimum shipment.
****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value! Oh Canada!
Château des Charmes Gamay Noir ‘Droit’ 2012
VQA St. David’s Bench $16.95 13.0% alcohol
Mr. Paul Bosc propagated this unique Canadian vinifera clone and it continues to offer great intensity and depth of flavour. Infused with rich aromas of sun-ripened black and red currant; hints of smoke, lavender and spice add further enticement. It’s dry and medium bodied with structure, ripe tannin and fresh texture. This tasty red bathes the palate with the ripe fruit flavours of its warm vintage. Tangy and lively with a measured touch of spicy toast and a dash of pepper, it finishes dry yet fruity. It’s great value, well paced and versatile; it’ll match barbequed pork, ribs or chicken. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Château des Charmes Vidal Icewine 2014 (200ml)
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $25.95 (565861) 9.0% alcohol
The luscious aromas fairly leapt from the bottle at cork pull—fresh-cut nectarine and apricot, poached pear, candied citrus zest and creamed honey. Underlying ripe, rich flavours of stone fruit, tangerine and crème caramel is the finely honed understated backbone of clean acidity showcasing a deft winemaker’s hand balancing the yin and yang, the sweet and the fresh. There’s lovely weight and roundness on the palate, extended length and a tangy lift on the finish. It’s simply delicious—savour a sip on its own or serve with apricot tart or grilled peaches and soft, artisan cheese. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Private Order

• Order the following wines by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario from VinoLuna wine agency. Contact via website, VinoLuna, by Email:  This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it., or in the GTA phone 416 587-6691.

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Dezzani ‘La Guardia - Rosso’ Dolcetto, Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
DOC Monferrato, Italy $16.25 13.5% alcohol
Two indigenous varieties—Dolcetto and Barbera—are joined by Cabernet Sauvignon, all hand harvested, in this stunning red blend. It’s terrific value and drinking well now. There’s good purity of fruit, deft balance and structure throughout. Sultry aromas of dark berry fruit, forest floor and incense set the table for a smorgasbord of flavour with red and black cherry interwoven with dark bittersweet chocolate. It’s mid-full bodied with gorgeous mouth feel and a long, lip-smacking aftertaste of dark fruit, mocha and oodles of charm. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Dezzani ‘La Luna e Le Stelle’ Barbera d’Asti Superiore 2012
DOCG Barbera d’Asti, Italy $16.15 14.0% alcohol
This price-quality balance tips well in your favour. The low-yielding hand-harvested, 100% Barbera fruit underwent lengthy maceration before spending 12-14 months in barrique and bottle prior to release. Alluring aromas of charred toast, aromatic bitters and camp coffee interlaced with dark berry fruit unleash a smooth mellow wash of ripe black cherry and red licorice robed in mixed spice and excellent tang. It’s medium weight with persistent flavours replaying on the finish and aftertaste. This is quite delicious sipped on its own and perfectly paired with all manner grilled red meat. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Dezzani ‘otto Bucce - Rosso’ Piemonte 2014
DOC Piemonte, Italy $12.85 13.5% alcohol
This punches well above the price, showcasing exceptional value, and is exceedingly consumer friendly. Predominantly Dolcetto – 68%, there’s a splash of other Piemonte-indigenous varieties—Barbera, Freisa, Bonarda, Albarossa along with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah… whew. ‘Otto Bucce’ translates to eight skins. Aromas of Asian spice, sweet vanilla and pipe tobacco introduce a tangy wash of pie cherry and lively red currant mingling with ripe juicy mulberry. It’s medium-plus bodied and satiny smooth with a mouth-watering finish. Pairs and pours well with spicy chicken tajine. (Vic Harradine)

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Dezzani ‘Rosso Passito’ Appassimento Piemonte 2014
DOC Piemonte, Italy $21.30 13.5% alcohol
This is from the inaugural vintage of appassimento wine in Piemonte. This Recioto-like, Barbera/Dolcetto blend was harvested in November, dried under controlled conditions losing up to 50% of weight, primarily water, resulting in concentrated sugars and flavours—passito translates to raisin. This is another great example of a producer that consistently provides value at every price point. Aromas of prunes, figs and bramble berry jam abound. It’s chockfull of sweet, ripe flavour with kirsch liqueur and cassis mingling with warm spice and hints of blueberry tart. It’s medium-full bodied with generous texture and lengthy, fruity finish. (Vic Harradine)

• Order the following wines by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario from Nokhrin Wines or Email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. if in the GTA phone 416 704-8617.

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
La Canosa ‘Signator’ 2013
DOP Rosso Piceno, Italy $17.00 13.5% alcohol
This represents exceptional value. This even-split red blend—Montepulciano and Sangiovese—dishes up alluring aromas of exotic spice, pipe tobacco and dark berry fruit. A delicious wave of rich luscious flavour coats the palate with sweet ripe mulberry and black currant riding a medium-full bodied, generously textured wave from cork pop to final drop, all balanced and beautiful. It’s good to go now and pours well with grilled rack of lamb or grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Château Puy Rigaud 2011
AOC Montagne Saint-Emilion, France $18.70 12.5% alcohol
This right bank, Merlot-based blend opens with heady aromas of cherry, exotic spice and sandalwood. A luscious, balanced wash of red and dark berry fruit mingle with tobacco, spice and wisps of charry oak bathing the palate, persisting through the lengthy finish and aftertaste. It has excellent purity of fruit and good structure with a seam of moderating acidity. A wonderful sipping red, it also pairs well with grilled rack of lamb. There’s good value here. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic, Julie, Susan