Vic is away visiting vineyards in Spain and Portugal, and Rod is flying solo for the next few Vintages releases.

We are including the scoring system explanation and icons at the end of this newsletter.

This release begins with a selection of South African wines


Laborie "Bin R88" Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
WO Paarl $16.95 (663195)
I wasn't able to taste the 2002 but, for what it's worth, I'd score the 2003 vintage of this wine . It delivers plush, dark fruit aromas and flavours, accented with fruitcake spice and pepper, and offers a smooth, stylish texture. It was a real hit with the company I poured it for. (RP)


Saxenburg Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
WO Western Cape $17.95 (663229)
"Smooth and luxurious" are the words that describe the way this feels in your mouth. It explodes with complex, ripe, dark fruit flavours that are accented with coffee, chocolate, smoke and tobacco, and it's wrapped in supple tannins. Delicious and delightful and very good value, this is made for a well-herbed rack of lamb, grilled to medium-rare perfection. (RP)


Cathedral Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
WO Paarl $16.95 (328567)
A complex, well-paced Cab that delivers solid fruit from front to back. Look for dark plum, black cherry and berries, with layered notes of coffee, pepper, and spice. Well balanced with ripe tannins, this pairs well with grilled red meats. (RP)


Kleine Zalze Pinotage 2003
WO Stellenbosch $15.95 (663203)
This is a lighter style of Pinotage that's fruity and easy drinking. The flavours are dominated by ripe red fruit (plum to the fore) with spicy notes, and there's none of the smoky/tar often associated with Pinotage. Open this when you're feeding on a freshly-killed gazelle... no, seriously, on spare-ribs with spicy BBQ sauce. (RP)


Meerlust Pinot Noir 2000
WO Stellenbosch $37.95 (663401)
A solid Pinot Noir in a distinctly New World style. The cherry-dominant aromas and flavours are consistent right through, and they're lifted by some attractive spice and herbal notes. The tannins are ripe and firm, and this will reward cellaring for a while. When you're ready to pull the cork, prepare a veal chop for the grill. (RP)


Muratie Shiraz 2003
WO Stellenbosch $19.95 (663278)
This is a delicious Shiraz that delivers a complex range of aromas and flavours. There's an initial note of oak on the nose, but it comes through in the flavours as added complexity to the primary flavours of black cherry and plum. Throw in some pepper and spices, fine structure, sweet and firm tannins, and you have a delicious mouthful. Pair it with grilled or roasted lamb or game. (RP)


Coleraine Fire Engine Red 2004
WO Paarl $14.95 (663237)
A 50:50 Merot-Shiraz blend that has a plush texture and delivers layers of flavour: black fruit, mint, pepper and spice. The flavours are full-on, the finish is long, and the tannins are gripping. The price is very good, too, and there's no reason not to buy an armful of this. Drink it with a piece of grilled red meat. (RP)


Kanonkop "Kadette" 2001
WO Paarl $15.95 (922237)
An interesting blend that's 60% Pinotage (a Kanonkop specialty) and components of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Ruby Cabernet and Cabernet Franc. It's richly flavoured (red cherry, plum and berries) with a tangy texture. There's a hint of tarry smoke and a slight bitter note on the finish, but I'd be the last person to attribute them to the Pinotage. Pair this with barbecued ribs. (RP)



Meerlust Chardonnay 2003
WO Stellenbosch $32.95 (663419)
A very elegant Chardonnay, with ripe peach flavours, notes of tropical and hints of sweet oak—subtle enough to please those who like their Chardonnay oaked but barely perceptibly so. The balance is fine and poised, and this makes a great partner to rich white fish dishes in a light cream sauce. (RP)


Eikendal Chenin Blanc 2004
WO Stellenbosch $14.95 (975128)
This is a quite delicious Pinot Blanc, and quite different from the mainstream in its fruit intensity. Look for lovely flavours of ripe peach, apricot pit and under-ripe green melon, all cohabiting happily with a few warm spicy notes. Great stuff, and the style of wine you might think of for a really flavoursome, medium-spiced, Thai dish. (RP)


Le Bonheur Sauvignon Blanc 2005
WO Simonsberg-Stellenbosch $12.95 (906495)
If you've ever wondered why "cat's pee" is sometimes used as a descriptor for Sauvignon Blanc, get a whiff of this one. The aromas are full-on feline, but the flavours are delicious green apple and lemon-lime. Dry and crisp, it's a great partner for seafood appetizers. (RP)



Henriques & Henriques Single Harvest Madeira 1995
Madeira $19.95 (713073)
The flavours are all raisins and raisin pie, with hints of orange peel and a soft, roasted nut finish. Lightly viscous and dry, you can sip this alone at the end of a meal or late at night as you contemplate life (which can't be so bad if you have a glass of this), or with a slice of dark fruitcake. (RP)



Quint do Crasto Late Bottled Vintage Port 1999
DOC Douro $27.95/750ml (662825) or $14.95/375ml (662833)
A well-priced Port that delivers an spectrum of rich flavours. They're dominated by ripe dark plum, blueberry and some dried fruits, along with notes of coffee and mocha. It's Port-sweet (amazing, that) and well-balanced, with a succulent finish. It's good to see more Ports in the 375ml format, which is much more suited to the way most people drink Port—rarely, and in small volumes. (RP)



Château des Charmes "Paul Bosc Estate" Chardonnay 2001
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (287268)
An elegant Chardonnay with a creamy texture and rich, intense fruit flavours (tropical, peach) with good balancing acidity. It's complex, nicely structured, and an excellent match for roast pork tenderloin with a fruit compote. (Watch for a review of the sibling Chardonnay, from the St. David's Bench Vineyard, in the forthcoming Winecurrent newsletter for March 18.) (RP)



Sumac Ridge "Black Sage Vineyard" Merlot 2002
VQA Okanagan Valley $17.95 (593053)
This is a very impressive Merlot that delivers richness, depth and intensity. The dark fruit aromas and flavours are ripe, complex and sweet: look for black cherry and plum, blackberries and spice and pepper notes. The tannins are firm and ripe and the finish is lengthy and complex. It's an excellent match for well-seasoned red meat dishes. (RP)



Anthony Road Semi-Dry Riesling 2004
Finger Lakes $18.95 (675355)
The Finger Lakes wine region turns out a lot of impressive Rieslings, but outside the "Uncork New York" displays at wine shows in Ontario, we hardly ever see them. It's too bad. This off-dry example displays lovely mellow tropical fruit with a light honeyed veneer and a hint of minerality. The balance is very good, and it makes a fine pre-dinner aperitif or pairs very well with lightly-spiced Asian dishes. (RP)



Clay Station Old Vine Zinfandel 2004
Lodi $19.95 (678680)
A big, rich Zinfandel for all you Zin-lovers. It delivers intense flavours of ripe, sweet, black berries and fruit but the balance keeps a leash on any tendency to stray into jammy territory. The balance makes for a successful food wine, and I'd recommend this with a spicy beef dish. (RP)


Morgan Syrah 2002
Monterey $29.95 (673764)
I really like this. It has a slightly rustic character in its tangy texture, and that conjures up good food associations in my mind. This is a wine for an uncomplicated piece of garlic-rubbed red meat or veal, grilled medium-rare and accompanied by a simple salad. As for the wine, it delivers flavours of ripe red cherries along with spice, pepper, and some gaminess. It has firm tannins, great balance and a long finish. (RP)


Red Horse Ranch "Avila Ranch" Merlot 2001
Central Coast $27.95 (694505)
A fruit-forward Merlot with flavours of red plum and cherry, a hint of hot pepper jelly, and some black pepper notes. It's straightforward with consistent flavours from front to back, and pairs well with grilled lamb. (RP)



Crios de Susana Balbo Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Mendoza $12.95 (640979)
A straightforward Cab at a good price. Look for a juicy texture with generous dark fruit (plum, cherry, berries) with notes of spice and coffee. It's medium bodied and has good flavour, and it makes an excellent wine for pizza, burgers and rich vegetarian and meat stews. (RP)


Doña Paula Estate Malbec 2004
Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza $15.95 (661819)
A medium-to-full bodied Malbec that delivers a fairly plush texture and is driven by complex dark fruit. The balance is good (with some warmth in the mouth), the tannins are easy-going, and the finish is sweet and long. Pair this with spicy red meat dishes or ribs in barbecue sauce. (RP)



Tabali Reserva Especial Chardonnay 2004
DO Limarí Valley $18.95 (663005)
The Limarí Valley is one of Chile's newer and most northern wine regions, and its white is Chardonnay. This example has gorgeous fruit complexity with classic peach flavours leading the way, and tropical fruit and soft citrus in supporting roles. It's fine-grained and disciplined, with excellent structure and balance, and delightful from front to back. Pair this with pork tenderloin or chicken breast in a light, cream-based sauce. (RP)



Santa Alicia Gran Reserva Merlot 2002
Maipo Valley $19.95 (663088)
A very concentrated Merlot that shows the old vines origins of the fruit. It's all dark fruit flavours, sweet, intense and ripe, with complexity from notes of chocolate and coffee. But all that is held in proportion by the clean acidity and firm tannins. Open this with a rich dish featuring venison or kangaroo. (RP)


Santa Rita Reserva Shiraz 2002
Maipo Valley $13.95 (663070)
An excellent price for a Shiraz that delivers a lot. It's flavour-packed, with intense black cherry and berries, with notes of spice, pepper, coffee and mint. Medium-plus bodied, it has easy-going tannins and a pleasing texture, and the balance makes it a natural for grilled lamb chops. It's drinking well now and will do so for the next year or two. This is a wine to grab by the armful. (RP)



Peter Lehmann "The Futures" Shiraz 2002
Barossa Valley $29.95 (606780)
It's not surprising that this is a terrific Shiraz; the Peter Lehmann name has become a by-word for quality and value. Here you get a big-bodied, dense, complex wine that gushes rich dark fruit, aromatic spices, mint, tar, and whiffs of oak. It's a bit mouth-boggling at first, but as you sip it and think about it, it all comes straight. Food? Big, flavoursome and meaty. (RP)


Piano Gully Pinot Noir 2003
Pemberton, Western Australia $23.95 (661884)
The Vintages catalog explains why Piano Gully was so-named. This Pinot hits the right notes, with lovely savoury and spicy cherry fruit, nice balance and a long, complex finish. Another winner from Western Australia, where they don't seem to be able to put a foot wrong. Drink this with grilled duck or lamb. (RP)


Reynolds Reserve Shiraz 2001
Orange, NSW $19.95 (661868)
A well-made Shiraz that delivers solid fruit from attack to finish. Look for dark fruit and berry flavours accented with spice, pepper and hint of mint, with a medicinal note that comes and goes, and a hint of oak. Mid-weight with an attractive texture, it's a good partner to red meat dishes. (RP)



Martin Steimer Gewürztraminer 2004
AOC Alsace $16.95 (709790)
First you get intense aromatics of rosewater, lychee, tropical fruit and musky spice, then a plush, plump texture and a replay of the aromas. But there's enough acidity here to keep the rich fruit in proportion, making this an off-dry number you can successfully pair with richly-spiced Thai food. (RP)



Château Fonréaud 2003
AOC Listrac-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur $29.95 (674218)
An atypical vintage has produced atypical intensity in the fruit here. It's big, dark and chewy, almost jammy, though nicely complex and solid through and through. The tannins are ripe but still overwhelm the fruit, and I suggest leaving this another two years, then drinking it over the next five. (RP)



Domain Clavel "Les Garrigues" 2003
AOC Coteaux du Languedoc $15.95 (748814)
A very good value blend from Languedoc that over-delivers in flavour and style. Think about the intense, spicy flavours characteristic of the region's wines (and think that the producers named this wine after that herb- and spice-laden bush called garrigue). Think about the hot summer of 2003 that produced particularly concentrated flavours. Now, put that together with good balance and firm tannins and... voilà! A perfect wine for flavoursome meat dishes, spicy pizza, and gourmet burgers. (RP)



Routas "Infernet" Grenache-Syrah 2000
AOC Coteaux Varois $12.95 (931899)
A well-priced blend that offers rich, ripe red fruit flavours with a sweet core, spicy, peppery and gamey notes, and a tangy texture. Medium bodied and slightly rustic (in a good sense) this is a wine you can pull out to go with anything from well-seasoned steak and spare-ribs to pasta and pizza. (RP)



Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2003
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $79.95/750ml (711317) or $42.95/375ml (968750)
I was in Châteauneuf-du-Pape during the exceptionally hot 2003 growing season and heard growers speculate about the effects of the heat on the vintage. This iconic winery chose to go with more Grenache than usual because that variety does better in torrid, dry conditions (think of Spain). The result in the bottle is an amazingly intense wine that will take years to evolve to drinking point. The nose is big, sweet, floral and slightly candied, but the flavours are more grounded, all dense sweet fruit with layers of spice and pepper. The tannins are ripe, but far too gripping, and this is best left at least five, preferably ten years. (RP)


Domaine du Grapillon d'Or Gigondas 2003
AOC Gigondas $26.95 (981787)
A very well-made Gigondas that shows none of the wonkiness that afflicts some of the 2003s. Here you'll find solid, pure red fruit flavours with good savoury and spicy character, together with fine weight and balance. The tannins are firm and you might want to hold this a year or two. No? Then grill a rack of lamb and open it up. (RP)



Moselland "Insignum" Riesling Kabinett 2002
QmP Mosel-Saar-Ruwer $15.95 (670737)
This is an off-dry (more off than dry) Riesling that makes a fine aperitif or partner to spicy, but not-too-hot, Thai food. The flavours are all sweet tropical fruit, nuanced with floral notes and very nicely balanced by bright citrus acidity. (RP)



Banfi "Le Rime" Chardonnay-Pinot Grigio 2004
IGT Tuscany $12.95 (344663)
This is a straightforward, food-friendly white that makes a versatile addition to the table. It's dry, crisp and clean, medium bodied, and has attractive flavours of apple, pear, and peach. A very good price and a perfect white for seafood appetizers. (RP)



Quintarelli "Rosso Ca'del Merlo" 1997
IGT Veneto $69.95 (958595)
Don't go looking for Merlot here. Merlo means "blackbird," and it refers to the hilltop vineyard where the grapes for this wine are grown. This is a dense, dark-fruit filled wine with extra barrel-age that gives it additional complexity and depth. Smooth and stylish, it has some notes of dried fruit, firm and sweet tannins, and a very satisfying finish. It's drinking well now and demands a dish of grilled or roasted game with a rich wine-based sauce. (RP)



Niepoort "Vertente" Tinto 2001
DOC Douro $28.95 (695023)
There's a slightly rustic edge to this wine that gives it an attractive character. A blend of Tempranillo, Touriga Franca and other varieties, it delivers dark plum and berry flavours with some spicy and coffee notes, a tangy texture and manageable tannins. Pair it with grilled red meat. (RP)



Marqués de Cáceres Reserva 1998
DOC Rioja $29.95 (702761)
In the newer style of Rioja, this offers terrific complexity in the red and dark fruit flavours. You'll find a gamey note right through the fruit and highlights of spice, cedar, pepper, and dried fruit, but less obtrusive notes from the oak. The whole is well balanced and robed in ripe tannins, and pairs well with rabbit (or chicken) in a red wine and prune sauce. (RP)


We use the following symbols when rating wines:

	Wines achieving nirvana
	Wines of excellence
	Wines well worth trying
	Wines below average, but drinkable
	Wines better avoided, unless desperate
	Represents a half star
	We both agree —a brilliant wine!
	Drink now and over the next 2 years
	Drink now and over the next 5 years
	Place in cellar

Cheers!

Rod and Vic (in absentia and Portugal)