Winecurrent
May 27, 2015 Newsletter

Newsletter highlights include:

  • Exceptional value wine Exceptional Value!  – 8 of 84 wines reviewed meet the strict quality-price guidelines and are found throughout the newsletter and after the Main Release priced between $8.95 and $30.00—all are identified by the Exceptional Value!  icon. What strict guidelines?  Click here.
  • Travels with Susan – the intrepid Susan Desjardins took the figurative, ‘Go west, young woman, go west!, quite literally and set off through the Okanagan Valley to Washington State and Oregon sipping and spitting her way through stunning scenery and a number of fabulous wines and wineries. Read and see more here.
  • Finding Waldo – hand picked, hand sorted, whole-bunch pressed and barrel fermented, it aged 12 months in Canadian oak barrels.
  • 5-star Wine – two wines rang the 5-star bell: Monte Faustino Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2008 @ $56.95 found under Italy: Red Wine and [cf]Thirty Bench ‘Small Lot – Triangle Vineyard’ Riesling 2013 @ $30.00 found under New in Ontario Wineries.
  • Vic Picks – Oldenburg Vineyards Chardonnay 2012 @ $26.95 earning 4½ stars found under South Africa: White Wine

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, some stores post earlier. For LCBO wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. It’s always best to phone first.

Vintages Release: May 30, 2015

Feature: Wine from the Southern Rhône

**** drink or cellar
Domaine Les Aphillanthes ‘Plan de Dieu - Cuvée des Galets’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2011
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $23.95 (414367) 15.0% alcohol
Galet are rounded stone that litter some vineyards capturing the sun’s warmth, radiating it up to the vines and fruit during the night. A spice-driven nose of currant and cherry heralds a medium-plus weight, nicely textured wash of lively, tangy red currant, cranberry and pomegranate bathing the palate, infusing the crisp, refreshing finish. It’s balanced with good nerve and verve persisting through the lip-smacking aftertaste. Wisps of tannin suggest a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Les Grands Bois ‘Cuvée Philippine’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2013
AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $18.95 (286344) 14.5% alcohol
Savoury-tinged aromas of red berry fruit and earthy notes introduce a line of acidity expressed in pie cherry and cranberry flavours on the palate. It’s medium weight with oodles of tang throughout. Grainy tannin and black plum compote dominate the finish and aftertaste. Aerate/decant a couple of hours and pour with pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Famille Perrin ‘Les Christins’ Vacqueyras 2012

AOC Vacqueyras $23.95 (973453) 14.5% alcohol

Mocha, black licorice and black berry aromas pour from this balanced, fruit-driven red blend—80% Grenache, 20% Syrah. A ripe, luscious deluge of red and black cherry, kirsch liqueur and dried currant coats the palate, mid-plus weight, creamy smooth and delectable. The mid-length aftertaste is balanced and beautiful. Good to go now with the price-quality ratio skewed in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Duseigneur ‘Antarès’ Lirac 2011
AOP Lirac $18.95 (213082) 15.5% alcohol
This full-bodied, fully textured red blend—60% Grenache, 40% Mourvèdre—is rich, ripe and rarin’ to go. It coats the palate, stains the teeth and delights the senses with a broad swath of rich, ripe dark fruit—mulberry, black currant and black plum—garnished with cassis, black licorice and local herbs. It finishes with more of the same, totally delicious with depth and structure. There’s good value here and it’s good to go now to 2019. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Château de Nages ‘JT’ Costiéres de Nîmes 2012

AOC Costiéres de Nîmes $24.95 (736876) 14.0% alcohol

Michel Gassier, one of the top producers in the southern Rhône Valley, fashioned this drink-me-now beauty from Grenache and a splash of Mourvèdre in the bourgeoning region of Costiéres de Nîmes. Espresso roast, Asian spice and dark berry fruit aromas abound. The palate’s coated with a full-bodied, creamy torrent of garrigue-infused red cherry and ripe mulberry interlaced with black licorice and gamy notes with wisps of campfire smoke. The finish lingers with cranberry and piquant spice. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2011
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $39.95 (983650) 14.5% alcohol
In the early 1300s, there were two Popes, one residing in Rome, the other in Avignon, France—hence the name of this wine region, one of the first to gain AOC status. This is mid weight and nicely textured delivering aromas of red and dark berry fruit mingling with roasted herbs. The palate’s treated to a balanced river of savoury-infused, tangy red currant and softer red cherry bathing the palate infusing the mouth-watering aftertaste. Pour alongside grilled lamb or cassoulet. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Famille Perrin Tavel Rosé 2014
AOC Tavel $19.95 (680801) 13.0% alcohol
This Grenache/Mourvèdre/Cinsault blend from Tavel—an AOC wine region making only Rosé wine and one of the few you can age—is balanced and oozing aromas of red berry fruit and garrigue, aka local wild herbs. It washes over the palate with a persistent flow of pie cherry interlaced with ripe, sweet mulberry adorned with red pepper jelly. It’s delicious throughout with good texture and weight plus a lively, mouthwatering finish. Colour coordinate this with pan-seared salmon. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Altivitis Ventoux 2011
AOC Ventoux $17.95 (414359) 14.5% alcohol
Here’s a bistro-styled, friendly red that’ll please you and your friends at your next social gathering—it’s balanced, fruit-forward and full of charm. It’s medium-plus weight and creamy smooth with black currant and dark red cherry bathing the plate persisting through the finish mingling with smoky hints of bramble berry jam—pretty good value, too. It pours well with grilled red meats, burgers, dogs and gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Ortas ‘Prestige’ Rasteau 2010
AOC Rasteau $19.95 (985929) 14.5% alcohol
This GSM red blend—50-year-old vines of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre—is savoury-edged with garrigue—local wild herbs—throughout. It’s medium bodied with good texture and a solid line of red fruit—sour cherry, currant and passion fruit—tang and acidity through the drying finish. The aftertaste delivers a lick of still-resolving tannin that’s somewhat ameliorated with a two-hour aeration/decant. Pour with spaghetti Bolognese or pastitsio. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Pierre Amadieu ‘Romane-Machotte’ Gigondas 2012
AOC Gigondas $27.95 (17400) 14.5% alcohol
Here’s a stylish, smooth and mellow rendition of a Grenache/Syrah blend from a highly rated AOC of the southern Rhône Valley. This has it all—depth, complexity, structure and great purity of fruit throughout. Briary berry and kirsch liqueur adorned with vanilla, Christmas cake spice and sprigs of local herbs infuse the aromas and flavour. It’s full bodied with good mouth feel and a lingering luscious aftertaste. Pick up three or more popping corks now, in 2017 and 2019, it’ll reward careful cellaring. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Port

**** drink or cellar
Dow’s ‘Late Bottled Vintage’ Port 2009
DOP Porto $18.95 (613927) 20% alcohol
This ‘poor-man’s Vintage Port’ dishes up aromas of spice cake and black currant. It coats the palate with a warm, sweet and spicy wash of sweet vanilla, dark raisin, fig and bramble berry jelly It’s fruit forward with very good mouth feel and medium-full bodied in weight. The finish reveals a soft-grained tannin structure; aerate/decant a couple of hours before serving with dark chocolate dessert or blue-veined cheese. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

**** drink now
Louis Bouillot ‘Perle d’Ivoire’ Brut Blanc de Blancs Non-vintage

AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $19.95 (48801) 12.0% alcohol

Dry, light in body, offering a fine creamy mousse, this lovely Crémant balances refreshing vibrant acidity, clean minerality and subtle notes of citrus, green apple and brioche. Long and bright on the finish, it’s excellent value and can be enjoyed on its own or with light appetizers. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Hidden Bench Estate Riesling 2013 

VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $23.95 (183491) 14.0% alcohol 

This is top-drawer Riesling solidifying the winery’s and the region’s sterling reputation for this varietal. Soft aromas of lemon-lime, Granny Smith apple and mixed spice herald a stunning gusher of tang-laden ambrosia—Meyer lemon, Key lime pie and white peach with notions of tropical fruit. This is slightly off dry, medium weight and balanced with good texture and a lingering, lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour with spicy Indonesian chicken. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!  Oh Canada!
Lailey ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (299776) 13.0% alcohol
This light-on-its-feet gem punches well above the price opening with an aromatic nose of apple, pear and mixed spice. It streaks across the palate with a focused wash of crisp green apple and white nectarine mingling with nuances of lemon curd and Key lime pie. It sips well on its own and pours beautifully alongside a variety of dishes—grilled calamari rings, pan-seared fish or steamed mussels. Kudos to winemaker, Derek Barnett. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Redstone ‘Limestone Vineyard South’ Riesling 2012
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $18.95 (381251) 9.5% alcohol
Aromas of smoke, minerality and slate dominate the nose. This off-dry beauty showcases a tang-laden surge of lime cordial and blood orange with great sense of purpose. Key lime and orange marmalade flavours bathe the palate persisting through the mouth-watering, sweet and tang finish. Wisps of sugared, ruby red grapefruit are introduced on the aftertaste. Pour with spicy Asian cuisine or sip on its own. Winemaker Rene Van Ede deserves a hearty doff of the cap for this gem. (Vic Harradine)

Okanagan Valley: White Wine

***1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
Therapy ‘Freudian Sip’ 2012
VQA Okanagan Valley $19.95 (411496) 12.0% alcohol
Orange blossom, incense and exotic spice aromas set the table for this light-on-its-feet mystery blend. Flavours of spice-infused apple and pear interlaced with melon and pineapple spray over the palate infusing the mid-length finish and aftertaste. Give it a go poured with lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Creekside ‘Queenston Road’ Pinot Noir 2013
VQA St. David’s Bench, Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (415877) 13.0% alcohol
Roasted herbs, piquant spice and sous bois aromas, aka earthy/forest floor, abound. Lively savoury-tinged flavours of pie cherry and ripe briary berry wash in waves garnished with excellent moderating acidity and wisps of black plum—delicious. It’s structured with good depth and complexity, mid weight, good mouth feel and a lingering, balanced finish and aftertaste. Very well done—pour with coq au vin. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Raven’s Roost Pinot Noir 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.95 (415828) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of earthiness and red berry notes set the table for this clean, lively Pinot. A laser-like line of spice-laden tang—sour cherry, cranberry and passion fruit—shoots across the palate interwoven with savoury notes. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a lengthy, dry, lip-smacking finish. It pours extremely well with Brie, Camembert or Gruyere. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Redstone Winery Cabernet 2012

VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (415885) 13.5% alcohol  

Quiet aromas of dark berry fruit and spice waft easily from the glass of this 70% Cab Franc, 30% Cab Sauv red blend. It streaks across the palate with nerve and nerve, racy red cherry and tangy cranberry along with wisps of soft, fine-grained tannin. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a dry, crisp finish and aftertaste. This pours well with burgers, beef fajitas, pasta in tomato sauce, creole stew and tomato quesadillas. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Rosehall Run ‘Hungry Point’ Pinot Noir 2013
VQA Prince Edward County $24.95 (422519) 12.0% alcohol
This is balanced on a pin and full of flavour, finesse and oodles of charm. Winemaker Dan Sullivan waved his magic wand over this gem—cold-soaked fruit was indigenous –yeast fermented spending 15 months in French oak. It’s a gorgeous expression of Pinot Noir showcasing balance, structure and purity of fruit. Aromas of red pepper jelly and toasty bits herald a river of fruit flavour with briary berry, peppery notes and red cherry to the fore. It finishes in a blaze with a lengthy, sweet and tang aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Benziger Chardonnay 2012

Sonoma County $19.95 (34777) 13.5% alcohol

Alluring aromas of baking spice and a fruit salad bowl of pineapple, pear, peach and apple provide segue for a cornucopia of flavour with green apple, blood orange and lemon tang interwoven with wisps of nutty notes. Medium-plus weight and well textured, it drives through the finish with style and panache finishing fruit-forward and mouth-watering good. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Chalk Hill Chardonnay 2012
Chalk Hill, Russian River Valley $54.95 (706580) 14.5% alcohol
Spice-infused aromas of honeysuckle, melon and lemon zest open the door to a mid-weight, nicely textured stream of lively pineapple, white grapefruit and lemon curd interweaving with piquant spice and savoury herb. It finishes with a bite of grapefruit pith on the long aftertaste. Pour with a platter of steamed clams in white wine sauce. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
La Crema Chardonnay 2013
Sonoma Coast $29.95 (962886) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of charred toasty notes and baking spice morph into a delectable, stream of clean, crisp and refreshing flavour—lemon pie filling and crisp green apple mingle with notions of Asian pear and honeydew melon on the palate. This is full bodied with creamy-smooth mouth feel and a long finish and aftertaste. Pour alongside supermarket rotisserie-roast chicken and oven-baked fries. (Vic Harradine)

Washington State: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Columbia Crest ‘Grand Estates’ Chardonnay 2012
Columbia Valley $17.95 (366542) 13.5% alcohol
This was tough to spit—it’s balanced, elegant and smooth as butter with a lengthy delicious aftertaste. Sweet vanilla and baking spice on the nose, it bathes the palate with a toasty flow of tropical fruit, ripe apple and tangy lemon pie filling. Medium weight with good mouth feel, it finishes balanced and beautiful showcasing excellent acidity melding with riper orchard fruit—pear and apple. Pick up a few for sipping or pairing with veal, pork or chicken. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Napa Valley $24.95 (73817) 13.5% alcohol
There’s more to this red blend than meets the eye—93% Cab Sauv, 4% Merlot, 2% Malbec, 1% Petit Verdot spending over 14 months ageing in French and American oak. It leaps from the glass with perfumed aromas of dark berry and mocha preceding a nicely textured wash of black currant and juicy black cherry interwoven with mint and dark bittersweet chocolate. It finishes balanced and fruity. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Duckhorn Vineyards ‘Migration’ Pinot Noir 2013
Russian River Valley, Sonoma Valley $44.95 (412437) 14.0% alcohol
Meticulous vine-tending and winery practices and perfect 2013 harvest conditions producing pristine fruit, coalesce in this deftly balanced, stylish beauty. It spent 10 months in French oak barrel, 35% new. Red currant and raspberry aromas herald a tang-laden surge of pie cherry and pomegranate garnished with baking spice and notions of sweet vanilla on the palate flowing through the lingering finish. It’s mid-weight with oodles of charm and finesse. (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Crios Malbec 2013
Mendoza $14.95 (162529) 14.0% alcohol
Tobacco leaf, campfire smoke and spice aromas abound in this hand-harvested, hi-altitude, 95% Malbec - 5% Bonarda red blend. It coats the palate with a medium-plus bodied, creamy smooth gusher of black currant, cassis and minty notes. The lengthy finish replays palate flavours with careful precision and adds a layer of toasty oak—it spent 9 months in 70% French and 30% American oak—and a solid lick of tannin. Pop corks in 2016. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Diamandes de Uco Malbec 2011
Uco Valley, Mendoza $27.95 (404145) 14.5% alcohol
Gravelly soils and cool-ish climate coalesce in this cellar dweller. Aromas and flavours of black plum compote and baking spice interconnect with dark berry fruit and a solid line of racy tang from red currant and pie cherry flavour. It’s full bodied and well textured with a firm, taut tannin underpinning. It finishes quite dry and needing more time in bottle. Pop corks 2017 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Luca ‘G Lot’ Pinot Noir 2012
Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza $29.95 (175570) 14.0% alcohol
Savoury passion fruit, tobacco and notions of black licorice aromas dominate the nose in this balanced, structured and delectable Pinot. Red cherry, mulberry and kirsch liqueur wash over the palate in waves. It’s medium-plus bodied with good texture and lingering finish that’s balanced perfectly with sweet fruit, tangy acidity and soft, fine-grained tannin. Lovely on its own—even better with smoked, grilled duck breast. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Trivento ‘Golden Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Uco Valley, Mendoza $19.95 (400143) 14.5% alcohol
Ripe, dark berry fruit and mixed spice aromas herald a rich, luscious wash of black currant and cassis with hints of ripe, black cherry. It’s medium-bodied with very good mouth feel and a lingering finish with perceptible, but acceptable tannin that can be handled with a two-hour aeration/decant. Grilled steak, gourmet sausage or burgers pair well. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Yauquen Bonarda 2013
Mendoza $14.95 (360115) 13.5% alcohol
This opens with a quiet nose of delicate aromas—dark berry fruit, spice and wisps of pipe tobacco smoke—before showcasing a tapestry of flavour on the palate with black currant, mixed spice, cassis and fennel to the fore. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and balanced, layered aftertaste with excellent tang and soft, ripe tannin adding structure. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour—pick up an armful. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

**** cellar
Juniper Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Margaret River, Western Australia $41.95 (694547) 14.0% alcohol
Clove, sweet vanilla and dark cherry aromas pave the way for a smooth wash of flavour on the palate—dark, juicy Bing cherry and bramble berry mingle with hints of toasty oak and black licorice. It’s full bodied and fully textured with a full complement of ripe fruit, tangy acidity and still-resolving tannin. Squirrel this away, pulling corks 2018 – 2022. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
O’Leary Walker Pinot Noir 2012
Adelaide Hills, South Australia $24.95 (408419) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas and flavours are laced with pungent herbs and underpinned by a firm tannin structure. Red currant and cranberry flavour streak across the palate, racy and tang laden. Roasted herbs, vanilla and toasted oak join the parade on the mid-palate persisting through the drying finish. It’s mid weight and nicely textured needing a bit more time in bottle, open and pour 2017 – 2020. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Serafino Shiraz 2012
McLaren Vale, South Australia $28.95 (407718) 14.0% alcohol
Rich and luscious throughout, this showcases good depth, balance, complexity and delicious fruit. Aromas of red and dark berry fruit laced with dark chocolate and black licorice abound. It coats the palate with a gusher of ripe, sweet mulberry juxtaposed with red cherry and hints of racy pomegranate garnished with fennel and mint. Mid-plus weight and generously textured, it finishes lengthy, fruit forward and mouth-watering delicious. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
The Black Chook Shiraz/Viognier 2013
South Australia $17.95 (66738) 14.9% alcohol
Campfire smoke, roasted herbs and cherry/berry fruit aromas open the door for a savoury-infused line of racy red currant and tangy pie cherry on the palate. It’s mid weight and finely textured with a drying finish and aftertaste. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce, lasagna or your favourite pizza. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

**** drink now
Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (686675) 13.5% alcohol
Grassy, herbaceous and canned pea aromas on the nose, this streaks over the palate with pungent spice, racy lemon-lime and white grapefruit zest. It’s full of nerve and verve, clean, crisp and mouth-watering—a style of wine that helped make Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc famous. Medium weight with laser-like focus, it cleans up zesty and refreshing. Pour alongside breaded, pan-seared calamari or a favourite pan-seared fish. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Auntsfield ‘Single Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2012
Southern Valleys, Marlborough, South Island $29.95 (361246) 14.0% alcohol
Mixed spice and herbs interweave with dark plum and dried currant on the nose of this finely wrought Kiwi Pinot. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured showcasing red currant and cranberry with and of roasted herbs on the tangy palate. This showcases good structure and persistent purity of red berry fruit. There are perceptible, but acceptable, tannin on the drying finish that can be ameliorated with a two- or three-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Oldenburg Vineyards Chardonnay 2012
WO Stellenbosch, South Africa $26.95 (374645) 14.5% alcohol
Oldenburg is a family-owned, boutique winery building a solid reputation producing fabulous wine. Nutty nuances interlace with cinnamon and spun sugar dishing up an alluring aromatic profile. It’s elegant and flavourful throughout with a balanced wash of lemon curd, apple pie filling and caramel bathing the palate. Structured and charming, it finishes in a blaze of pit fruit—peach and yellow plum—and wisps of salinity/minerality. This aged 9 months in French oak—50% new— that is now fully integrated. Stunning wine. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Nederburg ‘Manor House’ Shiraz 2013
WO Western Cape $16.95 (68775) 14.5% alcohol
Spice and herbs infuse aromas of dark berry fruit and black plum on the nose. It’s rich and luscious with flavour galore of black cherry, ripe mulberry and dark berry fruit caressing the palate infusing the balanced, lingering finish and aftertaste. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and offers pretty good value. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Rustenberg Merlot 2010
WO Stellenbosch $19.95 (404194) 14.0% alcohol
Pipe tobacco and wood smoke aromas abound. It sprays over the palate with tangy red currant and hints of cherry cordial adorned with dark coffee and piquant spice. Medium-plus bodied and nicely textured, it shines on the finish with oodles of charm, ripe mulberry, cranberry and racy pomegranate underpinned by firm tannin. It pairs and pours well with grilled red meats after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: Rosé Wine

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2014
WO Coastal Region $12.95 (999821) 12.5% alcohol
This is fresh, lively and inviting with aromas and flavours in the red spectrum—cherry, currant, passion fruit, strawberry and watermelon. It’s well balanced between ripe red fruit and tang, and finishes the way a Rosé should, clean, crisp and refreshing. It has the oomph to pair with chicken, salmon and lighter-styled appetizer and the balance to be thoroughly enjoyed on its own. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Maison Roche de Bellene ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Bourgogne Chardonnay 2012
AOC Bourgogne $20.95 (299867) 13.0% alcohol
Look for buttered toast and subtle baking spice aromas prior to a light-medium wash of green apple, ripe pear and citrus flavour. It’s nicely textured with excellent balance and sense of purpose as flavours persist through the long finish and aftertaste, clean and crisp. Give it a go with pan-seared white fish under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Maison Roche de Bellene ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Meursault 2010
AOC Meursault $48.95 (241091) 13.0% alcohol
A heavily perfumed nose of exotic spice, honeydew melon and nutmeg precedes a stylish river of white nectarine, Bosc pear and Mirabelle plum bathing the palate with medium-plus weight and creamy smooth texture. The lengthy balanced finish adds interest with wisps of well-integrated toasty oak and notions of vanilla. This has good structure, complexity and time on its side—drink now to 2019. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Ségla 2006
AOC Margaux $53.95 (359810) 13.0% alcohol
This Ségla is the second label of the left bank, 2nd growth, Ch. Rauzan-Ségla with plantings of approximately 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cab Franc and 1% Petit Verdot with 30-years the average age of vines. Floral notes, cedar and earthy aromas interwoven with plum and dark berry fruit introduce a mid-weight wash of black plum compote and red currant with roasted herbs on the palate persisting through the aftertaste. It showcases depth, complexity and a wisp of fine-grained tannin. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Domaine Bellavist ‘La Cuvée d’Ava’ Côtes du Roussillon 2011

AOP Côtes du Roussillon, France $15.95 (383398) 14.5% alcohol

This red blend—50% Mourvèdre, 30% Syrah, 20% Grenache—dishes up a rich robust nose of ripe black cherry/berry fruit and spice cake aromas. It’s medium-full bodied with creamy smooth texture and a balanced rich wash of cassis and black currant spreading across the palate. Look for more of the same on the lingering, balanced aftertaste. Back up the truck for barbecues this year and next. (Vic Harradine)

Germany: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaines Schlumberger ‘Kessler’ Gewurztraminer 2010
AOC Alsace Grand Cru $33.95 (307694) 12.5% alcohol
A vaunted producer, Schlumberger have been awarded four Grand Cru sites, this is from the Kessler site. Delicate aromas of piquant spice and herbs with notions of pit fruit herald a creamy-smooth gusher—aged on fine lees 8 months—of semi-sweet ambrosia with yellow peach, mango and pineapple predominant along with honeyed citrus. It finishes with good balance, especially considering its 45 g/l residual sugar, and is lovely sipped on its own as an aperitif or poured with usual suspects—spicy Asian cuisine or fresh fruit flan. Outstanding. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Terra d’Aligi Tolos ‘Riserva’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2009
DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo $29.95 (19166) 14.5% alcohol
Spice, earthy notes and cherry aromas herald a complex and structured flow of ripe, black briary berry and racy currant adorned with dark chocolate and grilled herb on the palate. It’s medium-full bodied with satin-smooth texture and a balanced, fruity aftertaste. Ready to pour now, it pairs well with grilled beefsteak or grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 cellar
Brezza ‘Castellero’ Barolo 2010
DOCG Barolo $55.95 (968248) 14.0% alcohol
Tar, tobacco and rose petal aromas announce a full-bodied, firm and structured Barolo. The palate’s dominated by pie cherry and briary berry interlaced with mixed spice and graphite. The finish layers on fine-grained tannin and well-integrated toasty oak. Pour 2017 to 2025; it’ll reward careful cellaring and a pairing with osso bucco. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Badia a Coltibuono ‘Riserva’ Chianta Classico 2009
DOCG Chianti Classico $38.95 (683474) 14.5% alcohol
This is rich, ripe and structured showcasing balance, charm and purity of fruit. There are aromas of floral notes, fennel and mint that herald a delectable flow of red cherry and raspberry intersecting with earthiness and roasted herbs. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and long well-balanced finish and aftertaste, It’s fine to drink now and on to 2020. Pour with spicy manicotti. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Castello Di Gabbiano ‘Riserva’ Chianti Classico 2011
DOCG Chianti Classico $22.95 (216309) 14.5% alcohol
Hand-harvested and partial barrel-fermented fruit from the winery’s oldest vines was followed by 16 - 18 months aging in medium and small French oak barrel before bottling. It’s structured and complex with aromas galore—leather, forest floor and mocha meld with red and dark berry fruit and mixed spice. This rolls over the palate with waves of black plum, tangy cranberry and hints of cassis. Medium bodied and nicely textured, deftly integrated toasty oak and soft tannin make an appearance on the lingering, dry finish. Aerate/decant an hour or two and pour alongside prime rib roast with grilled root veggies. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Fossacolle Brunello Di Montalcino 2009
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $48.95 (309880) 14.5% alcohol
Raisin, prune and spice aromas announce this seriously tasty Brunello with its depth, concentration and charm. It bathes the palate with a mid-full weight, nicely textured stream of red and dark berry fruit, pencil shavings, dark coffee and earthy notes bathing the palate persisting through the fruity finish and aftertaste. It’s balanced throughout and pairs well with Bistecca alla Fiorentina. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Marchesi Torrigiani ‘Guidaccio’ 2008
IGT Toscana $48.95 (674499) 14.0% alcohol
From estate fruit grown in three separate vineyards—60% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon—this delivers aromas of floral notes, black plum and dark bramble berry interlaced with black pepper and sweet vanilla. The overall expression of fruit on the palate is excellent with a structured and nuanced salad bowl of cherry, dried currant and berry fruit. It’s stylish, full weight with good texture and a lingering aftertaste of ripe, luscious black currant, cassis and kirsch liqueur adorned with baking spice, vanilla and black licorice. Good to go now after a two-hour decant or wait 12 months to pull corks. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Rocca Dell Macìe ‘Rubizzo’ 2013
IGT Toscana $14.95 (913780) 13.0% alcohol
Here’s a bistro-styled, crowd-pleasing red that’s also easy on the purse. It’s smooth as silk with medium weight and fruit forward—dark juicy cherry and ripe mulberry—along with bits of spice and good tang. It’s balanced and finishes fruity and lip-smacking good. Pick up a few and pour with pizza, burgers or wings. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar
Monte Faustino Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2008
DOC Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico $56.95 (327122) 15.5% alcohol
This is balanced, dense and stylish with a monumental aftertaste—nothing short of sublime. It was tough to spit. Dried berry fruit, fig and black cherry aromas flesh out to a tapestry of fruit flavour—black berry and juicy black cherry with hints of blueberry—interwoven with strands of clove, nutmeg and espresso roast. It finishes very lengthy with dark berry fruit, black licorice and a tell-tale bite that signals classic Amarone. In the world of quality Amarone, this offers very good value. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Provolo ‘Campotorbian’ Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2009
DOC Ripassao Valpolicella Superiore $19.95 (974402) 14.0% alcohol
The lifted nose—spice cake, raisin and dried currant—heralds a rich, ripe and robust Ripasso brimming with flavour and oozing charm. Fruit forward and structured—a stream of black plum compote and bramble berry mingles with raisin-pie filling and mocha on the palate. It’s medium-full weight and fully textured with a lengthy finish of juicy black cherry and dark bittersweet chocolate. Pour with hearty stew—osso bucco or cassoulet. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Mula Velha ‘Premium’ Tinto 2012
Vinho Regional Lisboa $15.95 (409250) 13.5% alcohol
Intense and luscious are key words for the aromas and flavours in this value-packed red blend—Syrah, Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouschet. Rich aromas of dark berry fruit and black cherry mingle with exotic spice and excellent tang. It finishes with each sip as good or better than the last, balanced and beautiful. Pick up a cartful pouring now to 2018 with what you pull from your barbecue. (Vic Harradine)

**** cellar
Quinta Das Carvalhas Touriga Nacional 2011
DOC Douro $21.95 (408112) 14.0% alcohol
This is a large magnificent Quinta with 20.5 ha of the indigenous grape, Touriga Nacional, including some with pre-phylloxera rootstock. This rips from the glass with perfumed aromas of dark berry fruit and earthy notes. It coats the palate with a full-bodied, fully textured, teeth-staining wash of black berry, ripe mulberry and tangy red currant adorned with bittersweet chocolate, cinnamon and espresso roast. This has it all including a solid lick of tannin—pop corks 2018 and beyond. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Bodegas San Prudencio ‘Depadre’ 2009
DOCa Rioja $22.95 (379917) 13.5% alcohol
Lively aromas of brandy, spice cake and vanilla unleash an array of palate-coating flavour with briary berry, pie cherry and mocha to the fore. It finishes with more of the same softly underpinned by wisps of friendly tannin. There’s good structure, deft balance and wonderful purity of fruit persisting throughout. It’s medium-plus bodied with good mouth feel and a boatload of charm. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
G Garnacha 2011
DO Vinos de Madrid $18.95 (132266) 15.0% alcohol
Perfumed aromas of incense and berry fruit provide segue for a tangy wash of mixed berry fruit garnished with red currant and cranberry. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel and a solid line of mouth-watering acidity persisting through the finish and aftertaste. Pour with prawn and chorico paella. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Sabor Real ‘Viñas Centenarias’ Tempranillo 2009
DO Toro $15.95 (244772) 14.0% alcohol
Sourced from plus-century-old vines—hence ‘Centenarias’—this floats from the glass with delicate aromas of floral notes and mixed field berry fruit. It’s firm and structured with taut tannins, well-delineated fruit and good moderating acidity. Spice-infused sour cherry and black currant interweave with notions of cola on the full-bodied, well-textured, complex frame. It dishes up a tang-laden finish and aftertaste. There’s great promise here; pour 2017-2022 after careful cellaring. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Viña Mayor ‘Reserva’ 2009
DO Ribera del Duero $24.95 (209155) 14.0% alcohol
This is an excellent red from one of Ribera del Duero’s top-tier producers. A bouquet of leather, earthy notes and baking spice herald a delicious river of dark cherry and sweet, ripe mulberry interlaced with piquant spice, dark coffee flavour and firm tannin underpinning. Full bodied and nicely textured it finishes with great promise and in need of a bit more time in bottle to ameliorate still-resolving tannin. Pull corks 2017-2021. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: July 11, 2015

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ruffino ‘Ducale Oro – Gran Selezione’ Riserva Chianti Classico 2010
DOCG Chianti Classsico $46.95 (353201) 14.5% Alcohol
This is made only in the best vintages and ranks in the top 10% of all 2014 Chianti Classico wine, hence the, ‘Gran Selezione’. Dark berry fruit, floral notes, mocha and baking spice announce a fruity, balanced river of spiced, dark Bing cherry, mulberry and hints of dark chocolate mingling with wisps of roasted herbs on the palate. It’s mid-plus weight with creamy-smooth mouth feel and more than its share of depth, complexity and charm. Pour with grilled steak, osso bucco or classic pasta dishes. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: August 2015

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!  Oh Canada!
Featherstone ‘Four Feathers’ 2014
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (341586) 12.0% alcohol
Featherstone produces carefully crafted, well-made wine with purity of fruit and the quality-price balance always tipped in your favour. This off-dry white blend—Riesling, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc—coats the palate with a fully flavoured wash of tropical fruit, lemon pie filling and notions of grilled pineapple. This is medium-full bodied with a long, fleshy, balanced and beautiful finish and aftertaste. It’s value-laden and you won’t go wrong picking up a few to sip or to pour with lighter appetizers or spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: October 17, 2015

**** drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Featherstone ‘Red Tail Merlot’ 2013
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 (131540) 12.5% alcohol
Sourced from estate,12-year-old vines, it was fermented with indigenous yeast in small vats over 15 days. A lighter-styled, consumer-friendly red with charm and elegance, it dishes up aromas of baking spice, red berry fruit and notions of red cherry. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and savoury-laced flavours of ripe red berry fruit and sweet-ish red cherry followed by a balanced finish. It pours well with mains of grilled red meat. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: December 2015

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Featherstone ‘Canadian Oak’ Chardonnay 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (149302) 12.5% alcohol
Hand-harvested, hand sorted, whole-bunch pressed and barrel fermented, it aged 12 months in Canadian oak barrels—Canadian oak is tighter and finer-grained than French and often said to impart a spicy note. Sandalwood, caramel and baked apple on the nose, it bathes the palate with a delectable tapestry of creamy-smooth, spiced apple pie, lemon yoghurt, sweet vanilla and buttered toast. It’s balanced, with good structure and wisps of oak on the lingering aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

**** drink now  Oh Canada!
Featherstone Rosé 2014
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (117861) 12.6% alcohol
This ‘Bonomo Vineyard’ blend of Merlot, Gamay, Cabernet Franc bathes the front palate with ripe, off-dry cherry cordial and ripe red plum. On the back palate and aftertaste, a zesty wash of ruby red grapefruit mingles with red currant and spice. It’s a delightful combo successfully juggling plenty of balls. One might call it a ballsy wine with the oomph to pair with a deli board or all manner of charcouterie. Tried mine with home-smoked salmon, sweet onion, capers and cream cheese on a baguette then with duck liver pâté, sweet onion with chutney on ciabatta, both worked well. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now  Oh Canada!
Southbrook Vineyards ‘triomphe’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

VQA Niagara Peninsula $22.95 12.6% alcohol
This organic red blend—87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc—opens with aromas of forest-floor notes and dark berry fruit. It bathes the palate with a structured wash of balanced, persistent flavours—red and dark currant and ripe red cherry—showcasing finesse and elegance. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and a mid-length finish and aftertaste. Pour with smoked, grilled duck breasts and mango chutney. (Vic Harradine)

• Winecurrent subscribers purchasing Australian wine may be familiar with the winery below as wine reviews often include a link to AFFW – see link below. These Australian wineries are a select group of twelve multi-generational Australian wine families representing 17 wine-growing regions and 48 generations of winemakers. All have the ability to offer a tasting of over 20 vintages of a flagship wine, show ownership of an established +50-year-old vineyard and employ world-class environmental practices -Australia’s First Families of Wine. In my opinion, they offer dessert, red and white wine with ‘sense of place’, something not often found in mass-produced wine. Vic Harradine

The following two wines from McWilliams were part of the May 16th release and at time of writing available in select LCBO stores.

****1/2 drink now
McWilliams Tumbarumba Chardonnay 2013
Tumbarumba, NSW, Australia $29.95 (409904) 12.5% alcohol
Tumbarumba is a relatively new wine area—vines first planted 1982—and the coolest in the state of New South Wales, nestled beside the Snowy Mountains with Chardonnay its Regional Hero. Involved aromas of nutty notes, fig newton, spice and exotic incense abound. It’s a grand mouthful of medium-plus bodied, creamy-smooth ambrosia with tropical fruit, racy lemon curd and crisp green apple to the fore. Fermented with mostly indigenous yeast, it rested on lees in primarily older barriques, only 20% new, with no malolactic conversion. It finishes crisp and clean, deftly balanced with fully integrated oak. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
McWilliams Canberra Syrah 2013
Canberra District, NSW, Australia $29.95 (409888) 13.5% alcohol
Making wine for over 150 years, this region near the city of Canberra in the Australian Capital Region—Canberra is the capital of Australia—has risen to prominence only in the last fifteen with Syrah/Shiraz its Regional Hero. Aromas of black plum, baking spice and roasted herbs provide segue for a spice-laden wash of red berry fruit garnished with sprigs of savoury herbs and delectable tang. It’s mid weight with satin-smooth mouth feel and lingering savoury finish. Pour with grilled rack of lamb with portobello mushrooms. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO

**** drink now
Masi ‘Masianco’ Pinot Grigio – Verduzzo 2013 

IGT delle Venezie, Italy $15.00 (620773) 13.0% alcohol 
This Pinot Grigio-Verduzzo white blend offers aromas of floral notes, citrus and tropical fruit. It’s medium bodied with plush mouth feel and a generous stream of ripe pineapple, honeyed pit fruit and good lemony tang with grapefruit pith on the aftertaste. This pours well on its own—crisp and refreshing—and pairs beautifully with roast chicken or pork. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Masi ‘Modello’ Bianco 2013 

IGT delle Venezie, Italy $11.95 (564674) 12.0% alcohol
A multi-blend white—Garganega, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco—this dishes up an alluring nose of ripe apple, honeydew melon and notions of buttered toast. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a persistent flow of ripe Meyer lemon, white grapefruit and hints of white nectarine bathing the palate infusing the mid-length aftertaste. This sips well flying solo and matches up smartly with lighter-styled appetizers. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Masi ‘Modello’ Rosso 2013 

IGT delle Venezie, Italy $11.95 (533026) 12.0% alcohol
Produced from indigenous red grapes, primarily Refosco and Raboso, this Veronese red blend delivers aromas of smoke, dark berry fruit and wisps of black licorice. A medium weight, smooth and mellow river of red and black currant mingling with spice and dark chocolate persist through the balanced, fruity finish. Good to go now with pizza, ribs or burgers. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Masi ‘Costasera’ Amarone Classico 2010 

DOC Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, Italy $39.95 (317057) 15.0% alcohol 

Sourced from premium grapes grown in ideal soil, aspect and climatic conditions, this reflects its provenance and the passion of Masi to produce and preserve decades of winemaking excellence. This leaps from the glass with lifted aromas of dark cherry, raisin, tobacco and fig. It coats the palate with a gusher of spice-laden ambrosia—dried black currant, spice cake, black plum compote and bittersweet chocolate. It’s full bodied and fully textured with a tell-tale sweet and tang Amarone bite on the lengthy finish. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Barone Montalto Nero d’Avola - Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
IGT Sicily $8.95 (621151) 13.5% alcohol
Deep purple, this is a crowd-pleasing choice for burgers or meat-lovers pizza. Dry and mid-weight, this red blend is principally Nero d’Avola—an indigenous grape—showing attractive scents of plum, blackberry and spice. There are loads of ripe, dark fruit flavour matched with fresh structure, notes of black pepper and herbs and a characteristic lip-smacking bite on the finish. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Ontario Wineries

Purchase the following wine by the case for daily home, restaurant or office delivery online from Creekside Estate or pick up from the winery in Jordan. (Vic Harradine) 

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Creekside Estate ‘Queenston Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2013
VQA St. David’s Bench $22.95 13.0% alcohol
Roasted herbs, piquant spice and sous bois aromas, aka earthy/forest floor, abound. Lively savoury-tinged flavours of pie cherry and ripe briary berry wash in waves garnished with excellent moderating acidity and wisps of black plum—delicious. It’s structured with good depth and complexity, mid weight, good mouth feel and a lingering, balanced finish and aftertaste. Very well done—pour with coq au vin. (Vic Harradine)

• Purchase the following wine by the case for daily home, restaurant or office delivery online from Featherstone or pick up from the winery in Vineland.

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Featherstone ‘Canadian Oak’ Chardonnay 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (149302) 12.5% alcohol
Hand-harvested, hand sorted, whole-bunch pressed and barrel fermented, it aged 12 months in Canadian oak barrels—Canadian oak is tighter and finer-grained than French and often said to impart a spicy note. Sandalwood, caramel and baked apple on the nose, it bathes the palate with a delectable tapestry of creamy-smooth, spiced apple pie, lemon yoghurt, sweet vanilla and buttered toast. It’s balanced, with good structure and wisps of oak on the lingering aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Featherstone ‘Four Feathers’ 2014
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (341586) 12.0% alcohol
Featherstone produces carefully crafted, well-made wine with purity of fruit and the quality-price balance always tipped in your favour. This off-dry white blend—Riesling, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc—coats the palate with a fully flavoured wash of tropical fruit, lemon pie filling and notions of grilled pineapple. This is medium-full bodied with a long, fleshy, balanced and beautiful finish and aftertaste. It’s value-laden and you won’t go wrong picking up a few to sip or pour with lighter appetizers or spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Featherstone ‘Red Tail Merlot’ 2013
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 (131540) 12.5% alcohol
Sourced from estate,12-year-old vines, it was fermented with indigenous yeast in small vats over 15 days. A lighter-styled, consumer-friendly red with charm and elegance, it dishes up aromas of baking spice, red berry fruit and notions of red cherry. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and savoury-laced flavours of ripe red berry fruit and sweet-ish red cherry followed by a balanced finish. It pours well with mains of grilled red meat. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Featherstone Sauvignon Blanc 2014
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $17.95 12.0% alcohol
A lifted alluring nose of floral notes and honeyed pit fruit aromas mingle with wisps of lime. It bathes the palate with plush mouth feel and medium weight showering peach, pear and oodles of tang on the palate persisting through the lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Not your typical Sauvignon Blanc, but it’ll find plenty of people who’ll love it poured on it’s own or with pan-seared fish or grilled seafood. (Vic Harradine)

• Order the following 3 wines, along with wine from the previous May 13 winecurrent newsletter, by the mixed case of 6 or 12 for daily home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario online from Huff Estates or pick up from the winery in Bloomfield, Prince Edward County.

****1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
Huff Estates Pinot Gris 2013
VQA Prince Edward County $20.00 13.0% alcohol
Honeydew melon and citrus aromas interweave with wisps of honey and toast on the alluring nose. It coats the palate with a medium-weight, creamy smooth wash of Meyer lemon, apple pie filling and notions of buttered toast. There’s a sense of finesse and fullness of flavour throughout. Stylish and charming, it finishes balanced on a pin inviting a pairing with pan-seared salmon or mussels steamed in white wine. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
Huff Estates ‘Cuvée Janine’ Sparkling Rosé 2011 

VQA Prince Edward County $30.00 12.9% alcohol 

Produced Methode Traditionelle from 100% Pinot Noir, this spent 30 months on its lees. Aromas of cherry and red berry fruit mingle with wisps of minerality prior to unleashing a glorious profusion of fine-bead mousse, aka millions of tiny bubbles. Red currant and pie cherry flavour dance over the palate with strawberry and watermelon carried along with all those wonderful bubbles. It finishes clean, crisp and refreshing. Has enough structure and pizzazz to pour with roast bird or pan-seared salmon—sublime sipped alone. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
Huff Estates ‘first frost’ Vidal 2013

VQA Ontario $25.00 (063842) 500 mL 8.5% alcohol
From hand-picked fruit around the time of the first frost in fall, this delivers stunning aromas—tropical fruit, apricot and candied citrus—and a mouthful of sweet, rich, ripe fruit flavours—honeyed mango, grilled pineapple and sugared grapefruit. It finishes balanced and beautiful. Pour on its own as dessert, with a fruit flan or alongside blue-veined cheese. (Vic Harradine)  

• Order the following three wines by the case, along with wine from the previous May 13 winecurrent newsletter, for daily home or office delivery from Thirty Bench or pick up from the winery in Beamsville. 

****1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
Thirty Bench ‘Small Lot – Steel Post Vineyard’ Riesling 2013

VQA Beamsville Bench $30.00 10.9% alcohol
Aptly named, it’s a bit more tight and steely on the palate than last vintage. Aromas of jasmine, citrus and green tea have to be coaxed from this limited-edition gem while on the front palate it fairly sings with bright lively tang—lime zest, racy grapefruit and chalky minerality. It finishes a bit broader on the finish and aftertaste with ripe peach, lemon pie filling and wisps of Kiwi fruit. Give this more time in bottle allowing to open up—pop corks in 2018 and again in 2020—should reward careful cellaring. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink now Exceptional Value!  Oh Canada!
Thirty Bench ‘Small Lot – Triangle Vineyard’ Riesling 2013

VQA Beamsville Bench $30.00 10.6% alcohol
Pungent aromas of lime zest, piquant spice and orchard fruit—apple, pear and nectarine—herald a nicely focused wash of tang-laden flavour with Granny Smith apple, ripe pineapple and white grapefruit to the fore interlaced with mineral/saline and notions of peel marmalade. It’s light-medium weight with excellent nerve and verve throughout ending in a blaze of dry, crisp, lip-smacking acidity. Riesling aficionados, collectors and wine-lovers like you and me would do well to pick some up. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now  Oh Canada!
Thirty Bench Riesling 2013

VQA Beamsville Bench $18.95 10.8% alcohol
Sourced from estate-grown younger vines, aromas of Key lime, orchard fruit and wet slate abound. It rolls over the palate with lively tang and freshness showcasing flavours of ruby red grapefruit and lime cordial interwoven with blood orange and minerality. It’s light and zesty with very good mouth feel and a balanced, lingering, slightly off-dry finish and aftertaste. Good to go now on its own or paired with lemon Sole. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan