Winecurrent
March 6, 2015 Newsletter

The California Wine Fair dates are always worth recording—it visits eight centres across Canada from coast to coast.

Expect over 100 wineries represented and well more than 400 wines to taste in one gala event. It’s best to use the spit containers provided while sampling, and to arrange for public transportation.

Highly regarded as ‘the’ wine show of the year that one does not miss; it’s often sold out. Purchase tickets now @ www.calwine.ca and have questions answered via the California Wine Fair Hotline (905) 336-8932 or 1-800-558-CORK (2675).

There are NO tickets sold at the door! 

The California Wine Fair Tour moves across Canada on the following dates:

  • Tuesday, April 7th: Québec City, Espace Dalhousie
  • Wednesday, April 8th: Montreal, Québec, Le Centre Sheraton
  • Friday, April 10th: Ottawa, Ontario, Westin Ottawa ( $75. per person from 7 to 9:30 pm)
  • Monday, April 13th: Toronto, Ontario, The Fairmont Royal York
  • Wednesday, April 15th: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Halifax Convention Centre
  • Wednesday, April 22nd: Edmonton, Alberta, Shaw Conference Centre
  • Friday, April 24th: Calgary, Alberta, BMO Centre, Calgary Stampede, Palomino Room
  • Monday, April 27th: Vancouver, British Columbia, Vancouver Convention Centre

Newsletter highlights include:

  • Exceptional value wine Exceptional Value!  – only 4 of 55 wines reviewed met the strict quality-price guidelines, priced from $12.95 to $17.95; all are identified by the Exceptional Value!  icon. What strict guidelines?  Click here.
  • 5-star Wine – no wine rang the 5-star bell.
  • Susan Selects – Nk’Mip ‘Qwam Qwmt’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011found under Feature: Wine from British Columbia earning 4½ stars @ $27.95
  • Vic Picks – Fielding ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay found under Ontario: White Wine earning 4 stars @ $14.95

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, some stores post earlier. For LCBO wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. It’s always best to phone first.

Susan Desjardins shouldered all the heavy lifting for this release with the tasting slated for March 4, she managed a one-day turnaround with polished tasting notes. Bravo, Susan!

Vintages Release: March 7, 2015

Feature: Wine from Tuscany

****1/2 drink or cellar
Fattoria Carpineta ‘Fontalpino Do Ut Des’ 2011
IGT Toscana $39.95 (48827) 14.5% alcohol
This big, age-worthy blend of Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon captivates with delicious aromas of steaming espresso and spice, cedar and dark berry. Spicy warmth wraps around intense dark fruit flavours. The tannins make their presence felt underlying the velvety, medium-full bodied texture with fine acidity accenting the fruit flavours. Tasty spice and toasty coffee bean notes replay through the extended dry finish. Serve with venison stew over polenta. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Terre Nere Brunello di Montalcino 2009
DOCG Brunello di Montalcino $42.95 (208462) 15.0% alcohol
Showing its age with finesse and elegance, this Brunello has a subtle nose—delicate floral notes and hints of earth and red fruit mingling with notions of dried cherry aromas. Dry, medium bodied, the alluring evolved red berry flavours are garnished with warm notes of spiced vanilla lingering through the extended finish. Supple yet powerful, this is a good choice served with Bistecca alla Fiorentina. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Grainaio Chianti Classico 2011
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (395145) 14.0% alcohol
From an historic winery, this truly is a classic of the region. Semi-transparent ruby, it’s fresh on the nose and palate, displaying cherry/berry aromas and flavours with notes of spice and a touch of vanilla. Medium bodied, lively yet silky in texture, it’s well structured, lengthy and dry on the finish. Enjoy with meat-based pasta. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Rocca di Castagnoli ‘Poggio a’Frati Riserva’ Chianti Classico 2010
DOCG Chianti Classico $29.95 (23358) 14% alcohol
An earthy quality plus notions of sandalwood and dried herbs layer on top of the intense aromas of dark fruit bursting from the glass of this inky red. Dry, medium-full bodied, the perceptible tannins are paired with a tangy vivacious texture, framing flavourful cherries and berry fruit. The herbal notes replay with toasty coffee notes adding a further layer of complexity. Concentrated and powerful, this is a candidate for long-term cellaring that will pair now with grilled steak under a coffee rub. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Tenuta di Trecciano Chianti Colli Senesi 2013
DOCG Chianti Colli Senesi $15.95 (86314) 13.0% alcohol
Fresh aromas of red cherry and berry along with a whiff of spicy vanilla carry through to the vibrant, tangy texture of this delightfully tasty wine from the hills of Siena. It’s firm in structure and medium bodied while pure in its focused fruit and pleasingly dry through the finish. A very good value red that will pair well with pizza or pasta. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Le Sughere di Frassinello 2011
DOC Maremma $24.95 (25700) 15.0% alcohol
This dense and substantial blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet and Merlot offers intense, lifted aromas of rich sun-ripened berry and cherry, spicy flowers and vanilla garnished by a whiff of chocolate. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s velvety, dense and toasty. Dark fruit, an earthy quality and a replay of dark chocolate marry to create a ripe, harmonious, impactful wine. It finishes firm, warm and spicy. Savour with a hearty beef stew. (Susan Desjardins)

Feature: Wine from British Columbia

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Gray Monk Pinot Gris 2013
VQA Okanagan Valley $19.95 (118638) 13.4% alcohol
No shrinking violet, this Pinot Gris combines lovely floral aromas with pear, melon and citrus. Medium bodied, just off dry, the refined seam of acidity offsets the lively fruit flavours with a zesty pithy citrus note lingering through the lengthy finish. Showing good depth and character, this is excellent value—enjoy chilled on its own or with seafood. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Mission Hill ‘Reserve’ Shiraz 2012
VQA Okanagan Valley $26.95 (126763) 13.5% alcohol
The concentrated inky flow of this wine presages the weight and depth, while aromas of ripe black fruit, hints of mint and pepper, vanilla and spice tantalize. Dry, firmly structured and medium-full bodied, the plush blackberry jelly and black cherry flavours pair with a pleasantly fresh texture. A touch of toast and the lift of tasty sweet spice ensues with spice persisting on the finish with the warmth of pepper and richness of fruit. Enjoy with rosemary roast leg of lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
Tinhorn Creek Gewürztraminer 2013
VQA Okanagan Valley $19.95 (904185) 13.3% alcohol
This classic Gewürzt offers lifted aromas of lychee, rosewater and a whiff of passion fruit with sweet spice. Medium bodied and fruity, harmonious and balanced, there’s freshness on the palate underlying tasty notes of ginger, pear and citrus. Long and zippy on the finish, it’s ideal paired with roast ham. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Nk’Mip ‘Qwam Qwmt’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
VQA Okanagan Valley $27.95 (303719) 14.0% alcohol
Produced from fruit grown on its estate in the south Okanagan, this impressive, inky Cab offers archetypal aromas of sagebrush overlaid on cassis, cedar and roasted red pepper. Dry, full bodied, there’s ample ripe fruit here, fresh acidity and a firm yet velvety texture offering a deftly crafted counterpoint. Spice, pepper and notes of dark chocolate add complexity to the depth and power lasting through the dry finish. Enjoy now with grilled red meats and stash a bottle or two in the cellar. (Susan Desjardins)

The Main Release

Eau-de-Vie

**** drink or cellar
Le Père Jules Pommeau de Normandie Non-Vintage
AOC France $39.95 (402131) 17.0% alcohol
The deep amber tones of this tasty spirit presage luscious flavours and weighty, viscous texture. It’s produced by barrel-aging a combination of freshly pressed apple cider and Calvados. All things apple—tart cider, candy apple and cinnamon apple cake—come to mind as you savour the aromas and flavours. Enjoy the delicious, lush warmth on the palate and through the prolonged finish. (Susan Desjardins)

Fortified Wine: Port

**** drink or cellar
Burmester ‘Late Bottled Vintage’ Port 2009
DOP Douro, Portugal $24.95 (400697) 20.0% alcohol
Inky/opaque, this fine Port offers lifted notes of spiced rose, spun sugar, concentrated dark berry and plum. There’s great depth, flavour intensity and strength on the palate; the spice and dark fruit replaying and mingling with notes of black pepper and vanilla custard. Attractive warmth and an ample, creamy, mouth-filling texture caress the palate through the lingering finish. Enjoy with a chocolate torte with a raspberry coulis. (Susan Desjardins)

Champagne

****1/2 drink now
Jacquart ‘Mosaïque’ Brut Non Vintage 

AOC Champagne, France $47.95 (664672) 12.5% alcohol 

This is one of life’s few ‘affordable luxuries’; always nice to have a bottle or two on hand for special occasions. It’s mostly Chardonnay with lesser amounts of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. It opens with aromas of baking bread and citrus before bubbling up with fresh, lively flavour—ripe pear and crisp apple garnished with lemony tang and wisps of herbs and honeydew melon. It certainly dishes up gorgeous texture and persistent, fine-bead bubbles—a good thing—and a refreshing, lip-smacking aftertaste—a very good thing. (Vic Harradine) 

Ontario: White Wine

**** drink now  Oh Canada!
Featherstone ‘Four Feathers’ 2012 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (354763) 11.1% alcohol 

A blend of four grapes—56% Riesling, 22% Sauvignon Blanc, 13% Gewürztraminer, 9% Chardonnay—this offers aromas of minerality, tropical fruit and citrus. It bathes the palate with balanced and beautiful lemon-lime, white peach and notions of tangy passion fruit. This is mid weight with lots of charm and a crisp, clean and refreshing finish. This is a wonderful, warm-weather sipper and very good value. (Vic Harradine) 

**** drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Fielding ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2013

VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (164491) 12.5% alcohol

The price-quality balance here tips in your favour. Racy citrus and piquant spice aromas provide segue for a delectable wash of tangy lemon-lime and poached pear mingling with spiced apple crumble. It’s light-medium bodied with nice texture and a crisp, refreshing finish. It pours well with grilled chicken strips over Caesar salad. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
Malivoire Pinot Gris 2013
VQA Beamsville Bench $19.95 (591305) 12.0% alcohol
Subtle notes of white flowers are married to aromas of stone fruit and citrus on the nose of this fruity, flavourful wine. Light-medium bodied, it showcases juicy citrus and notes of apricot layered over a nicely defined seam of acidity. Finishing clean and fresh with a touch of fruity sweetness, it’s pleasant to sip chilled. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!  Oh Canada!
Tawse ‘Sketches’ Riesling 2013

VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (89029) 10.5% alcohol

Granny Smith apple, piquant spice and floral notes presage a dazzling array of lifted and lively flavours with racy Key lime pie, lemon curd and crisp, refreshing green apple to the fore. This is light on its feet and dances across the palate with creamy-smooth mouth feel and oodles of charm. The finish is refreshing and mouth-watering delicious. Terrific as a starter wine, it pours well with pan-seared or grilled sea food or freshly-shucked oysters. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
13th Street Gamay Noir 2012

VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (177824) 13.5% alcohol

This is rich and luscious from the get go with purity of fruit, good balance and style. The lifted nose is a tapestry of aromas—black licorice, dark cherry/berry, baking spice and sandalwood. It’s tang-laden throughout with red cherry and red currant prevalent interwoven with ripe black plum, earthiness and notions of briary berry. It’s mid weight and well textured with a solid tannin underpinning—ameliorate with a two-hour aeration/decant or pop corks 2016 and beyond. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now  Oh Canada!
Keint-He ‘Voyageur’ Pinot Noir 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.00 (373407) 12.5% alcohol
Transparent ruby, this is classic cool-climate Pinot noir offering appealing aromas of dried herbs, spice and ripe cherry/berry. Dry, light-medium bodied, it’s elegant and well crafted, delightfully spiced and abounding in tasty, tangy red fruit. Characterized by a fine, silky texture, clean acidity and supple tannin, it’s the real deal and great value. Serve with grilled salmon. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Rosewood ‘Select Series’ Merlot 2012
VQA Niagara Escarpment $21.95 (211896) 13.9% alcohol
Those of us who have enjoyed Rosewood’s fine Merlot can only lament a loss, as their vines (and no doubt others) have succumbed to the recent frigid winters. So, stock up and stash a few bottles of this vintage as it showcases generous aromas and flavours of plum and berry, spice and dried herbs mingling with notes of chocolate-coated cranberries. Dry, medium-full bodied, the wine is spicy, warm and ample, the ripe dark fruit underpinned by supple tannin and a clean, vibrant texture. Long and dry through the finish, it’ll pair well with roast beef tenderloin with a pepper/mustard rub. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
The Good Earth Cabernet Franc 2012
VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $20.95 (350751) 13.5% alcohol
A classic Niagara Cabernet Franc, this offers aromas of sweet roasted red peppers, red fruit and earthy notes. Dry, light-medium bodied, perceptible tannin and fresh acidity frame the tasty fruit, defined by notes of spice and pepper lingering on the finish. Enjoy with pizza or burgers. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

****1/2 drink now
Rodney Strong Chardonnay 2012 

Sonoma County $19.95 (226936) 13.5% alcohol 

A complex, alluring nose of toasty, nutty notes and butterscotch toffee aromas are precursors to a racy, mouth-watering wash of lemon curd and pineapple garnished with mandarin orange and toasty oak. It’s fully flavoured and mid-full bodied with generous texture and a long tangy finish. The price-quality ratio skews well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

Oregon: White Wine

**** drink now
Duck Pond Cellars Pinot Gris 2013
Willamette Valley $19.95 (333286) 12.6% alcohol
There’s a flinty quality underlying the attractive aromas of pear, apple and stone fruit. Dry, medium bodied and fruity, zesty notes of citrus pith mingle with flavours of pear and peach. The finely wrought acidity shines through, the mineral character underlying the tasty fruit. There’s depth, complexity and freshness to this wine and a lingering pithiness on the finish. Enjoy with roast pork tenderloin. (Susan Desjardins)

California: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Bonterra Pinot Noir 2013
Mendocino County $19.95 (317685) 14.2% alcohol
This tasty organic Pinot Noir offers consistent quality and value. Semi-transparent ruby, the rich, ripe aromas of cherry and berry harmonize with notions of spice and vanilla. Dry, medium bodied and round, it offers a well-defined yet subtle structure to frame fine fruit while spices explode on the palate and linger through the finish. It’s a food-friendly crowd pleaser. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Decoy Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 

Sonoma County $34.95 (186171) 13.5% alcohol 

A lifted nose of dark berry fruit, black plum compote and mixed spice presage a balanced and stylish surge of black currant, black berry jam and black Bing cherry robed in roasted herbs and toasty, smoky oak. It’s mid-full bodied with good mouth feel and lengthy finish, replaying palate flavours with a supple tannin underpinning. A lovely California Cab with structure and complexity. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Highflyer Centerline 2009
Napa Valley $29.95 (396002) 14.8% alcohol
Principally Syrah and Petite Syrah with dashes of Zin and Grenache, this unusual blend is inky, dense and concentrated. The nose offers a whiff of smoke and spice with powerful aromas of red and black fruit. Dry, full bodied, round and potent, it’s firmly structured with velvety mouth feel. Flavours of blackberry, cherry and plum wash across the palate with tasty spice and pepper joining on the dry finish. Serve with braised lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Ghost Pines ‘Winemaker’s Blend’ Merlot 2012
Napa & Sonoma Counties $19.95 (135384) 14.4% alcohol
The concentration and depth of the wine are evident as you pour—intense fruit, vanilla and spice aromas rush from the glass. Dry, medium-full bodied, showcasing a velvety texture, the perceptible tannin and subtle acidity act as a backdrop for the generous flavours of black plum, berry and cherry. Nicely balanced, French and American oak-aging adds a garnish of spice and dark roast coffee to the finish. Pair with grilled red meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Oregon: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Primarius Pinot Noir 2012
Oregon $24.95 (402180) 12.0% alcohol
Semi-transparent ruby, this Pinot artfully combines aromas of red fruit and spice, earthy wood smoke and herbs. Dry, medium bodied, the fresh acidity and supple tannins balance the vibrant red fruit—raspberry and cranberry—while notions of earth and spice replay through the extended dry aftertaste. Savour with mushroom risotto and maigret of duck. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Viña Cobos ‘Felino’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Mendoza $19.95 (132365) 14.5% alcohol
Paul Hobbs is part of this winemaking partnership and his signature style guarantees well-crafted value. Notes of mocha tantalize, mingling with spice, vanilla and ripe dark fruit. Dry, medium-full bodied, this is beautifully balanced with great depth of fruit flavour. This wine is firm yet fresh, fruity yet savoury, finishing long with a tasty note of dark chocolate. Don’t hesitate to pick up a few. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Zuccardi ‘Serie A’ Bonarda 2012

Mendoza, Argentina $16.95 (355560) 13.5% alcohol

Spice, dried currant and cassis on the nose, this is rich, smooth and mellow throughout. A blanket of dark, ripe black berry, mulberry and dark, juicy cherry envelope the palate framed in excellent tangy acidity and über delicious flavour. It’s creamy smooth, mid-plus weight with a stunningly lengthy finish—balanced and beautiful, structured and lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Emiliana ‘Novas Gran Reserva’ Syrah/Mourvèdre 2012
Cachapoal Valley $15.95 (399360) 14.5% alcohol
Layered aromas fairly leap from the glass of this purple-hued organic red blend—dark berries, smoke, licorice, vanilla and spice. It’s full bodied and shows ample berry fruit garnished with spice, pepper and dark chocolate—an elusive whiff of smoky roasted peppers add mystique. There’s firm structure with fine acidity to lift the full fruit flavours through a dry, lengthy aftertaste. Good balance, quality and value to serve with grilled red meats. (Susan Desjardins)

South Africa: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Cathedral Cellar Shiraz 2012
WO Western Cape $15.95 (561142) 14.0% alcohol
There’s complexity here, smoky dark fruit and subtle herbal aromas garnished with classic notes of pepper, licorice and spice. Dry, medium bodied, this wine is crafted with balance in mind, juicy round fruit matched to fresh acidity and ripe tannins, the peppery notes rising to a crescendo on the long, dry finish. A crowd pleaser that’s a good value; a match to peppercorn steak. (Susan Desjardins)

France : Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Tour Salvet 2009
AOC Haut-Médoc $23.95 (403766) 13.5% alcohol
This award winner offers classic Bordeaux style and great value. The fruit’s rich and dark on the nose with a whiff of smoke wrapping around notes of herbs and cedar. It’s well balanced with firm structure, offering a clean frame for ripe flavours of cassis matched to notes of dried herbs, spice and white pepper. Vibrant, dry and medium bodied, warm and tasty, it’s a well-crafted approachable red blend. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Saint-Roch Chimères 2012
AOP Côtes du Roussillon Villages $18.95 (119354) 15.0% alcohol
A perennial favorite, this blend of old vines Grenache, Carignan and Syrah is a powerhouse of flavour and depth. The wonderful aromas of Mediterranean garrigue tease and merge with smoke and licorice layered on blackberry jelly. The black fruit is plush, toasty notes, dried herbs and spice adding complexity. Round and ripe, medium-full bodied, balanced and flavourful with a long, dry peppery finish, this is excellent value. Serve with boeuf bourguignon or cassoulet (Susan Desjardins)

Israel: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Hermon Mount ‘Hermon’ White KP 2013
Galilee $20.95 (611327) 13.5% alcohol
Offering attractive aromas of orchard and stone fruit mixed with citrus, this dry, medium-bodied wine replays pear and green apple on the palate. The well-defined backbone of acidity carries the fruit through a tangy finish. Serve with sushi or grilled halibut. (Susan Desjardins)

Israel: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Galil Mountain Pinot Noir KP 2012
Upper Galilee $22.95 (121228) 14.0% alcohol
Semi-transparent ruby, this attractive Pinot Noir has an earthy, herbal character that’s nicely married to aromas of red fruit. Dry, medium bodied and smoothly textured, it balances fine acidity and ripe tannin with tasty flavours of ripe cherry and raspberry, spice and white pepper. Pleasantly warm on the finish, you’ll enjoy it with stuffed roast chicken. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Tabor ‘Galil’ Cabernet Sauvignon KP 2013
Galilee $20.95 (283838) 14.0% alcohol
Offering pleasing aromas of ripe fruit, cedar and spice, this dry, medium-bodied Cab is firmly structured and tasty. There’s good balance, freshness to the texture and appealing flavours of cassis, black plum and spice. A touch of warmth expands through the flavourful finish. Serve with prime rib. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Monte Del Frá Lena Di Mezzo Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2009

DOC Valpolicella Classico, Italy $49.95 (47506) 15.0% alcohol

As Amarone prices go, this is good value. Aromatic bitters, Christmas-cake spice and roasted herbs set the table for a feast of flavour. A sweet tsunami wave of ripe mulberry, kirsch liqueur, black plum compote and espresso roast coats the palate. It’s beautifully textured with good weight and a long, dry, spicy finish that’s balanced and beautiful, garnished with soft tannin and notions of black licorice. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Olivares ‘Altos de la Hoya’ Monastrell 2012
DO Jumilla $13.95 (163154) 14.5% alcohol
This deep-ruby gem really delivers. It combines forest berries and raspberries with dried herbs, an earthy quality and toasty oak on the nose and palate. Ripe tannins offer a firm and friendly structure while the ripeness of the fruit is matched to fresh texture. Dry, warm and fruity through the finish, it’s outstanding value—stock up. (Susan Desjardins)

New in the LCBO

**** drink or cellar
Charles Smith ‘Kung Fu Girl’ Riesling 2013
Columbia Valley, $18.95 (394759) 12.0% alcohol
You’ll be captivated by the penetrating aromas of white flowers, lemon-lime, white peach and whiff of mineral. Dry, medium bodied, racy yet round, this well-crafted gem bathes the palate with vibrant citrus, mineral and a hint of pear matched to a finely-honed backbone of acidity. Well balanced and refreshing, it offers a touch of fruity sweetness on the lengthy finish. Savour on its own or with a cheese plate or charcuterie, a chicken or fish dish. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Charles Smith ‘The Velvet Devil’ Merlot 2012
Columbia Valley $18.95 (394742) 13.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of sun-ripened cherry and plum fruit, exotic spice, vanilla and cedar leap from the glass of this velvety (yes, really) medium-bodied wine. The tannins are ripe and supple, the acidity a good counterpoint to the ripe savoury fruit with notes of vanilla, chocolate-coated espresso bean and dried herbs adding depth through the tasty, dry finish. Approachable and wickedly flavourful, you’ll enjoy it with grilled meats and veggies. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Henry of Pelham Chardonnay 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (291211) 13.0% alcohol
There’s a whiff of apple-pear flan, citrus and notes of baking bread aromas on the nose. Dry, medium bodied, quite buttery and fruity, this wine’s fine backbone of acidity and aging on lees ensure deft balance and showcase stone fruit and citrus flavours. It’s well crafted and very good value offering a lengthy, zesty finish, (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Miguel Torres ‘Las Mulas Reserva’ Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Central Valley $12.95 (272609) 13.0% alcohol
Produced organically, there’s a classic nose here—asparagus, tinned peas, citrus and notions of tropical fruit and flowers. Dry, tangy and medium bodied, the flavours are true to the varietal with herbal notes shining through—citrus zest and passion fruit enliven the palate preceding a lip-smacking, clean, pithy finish. Serve well chilled with goat cheese, lemon and caper appetizer or pan-fried halibut. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Silver Bay Cellars Pinot Noir 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (372789) 13.0% alcohol
Here’s good-value, lively, local Pinot Noir—it’s light on its feet, clean, silky and fresh. Attractive aromas of sweet spice and vanilla, earth and red fruit herald flavours that are juicy, fruity and bright. Underlain with lively acidity, the tasty cherry/berry fruit dances across the palate infused with toasty notes, spice and a touch of white pepper. It’s tasty and lip-smacking good on the finish. Enjoy this easy-going, versatile red with pizza, grilled salmon or charcuterie. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
Sue-Ann Staff ‘Fancy Farm Girl - Frivolous’ White 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (394072) 11.0% alcohol
Floral notes combine enticingly with citrus and a basket of ripe Niagara stone fruit on the nose of this proprietary blend. It’s off-dry and nicely balanced with a touch of mineral combining with fresh acidity to lift the tasty fruit flavours. It’s easy-going and appealing with clean, silky texture. It’s a down-to-earth wine to be enjoyed well-chilled. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now  Oh Canada!
Sue-Ann Staff Fancy Farm Girl ‘Flamboyant’ Red 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (394080) 13.0% alcohol
Grilled herb and red pepper aromas mingle with berry fruit on the nose. The palate offers tasty flavours of ripe berry, cherry and plum, the roasted red pepper replaying with a dash of black pepper. This is a flavourful, approachable red, dry, medium bodied with a pleasing round texture, good balance and tasty finish—stock up. Bring on the crowd and serve with BBQ back ribs. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
White House Wine Co. Riesling Pinot Grigio 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $ 12.95 (219022) 11.5% alcohol
The aromas hint at delicate flowers, apricot, pear and citrus. This is fruit forward with good weight on the palate while tasty flavours of apricot, peach and lime stream across the palate framed by subtle acidity and mineral notes. Attractive, dry and approachable, this is a great sipper for the book club. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Vintages

**** drink now
Casar de Burbia Godello 2011
DO Bierzo $16.95 (368381) 13.5% alcohol
Godello’s origin is lost in antiquity, but its present home is NW Spain with its popularity soaring. Involved aromas of floral notes, stone fruit, citrus, baking spice and wet stone drift from the glass. Dry, medium bodied, there’s a lovely creamy texture backed by vibrant acidity. Tasty citrus and orchard fruit flavours mingle with underlying mineral notes and a notion of sweet spice. Pleasantly warm and plush on the palate, it’s clean and dry through the finish. It pairs well with tapas, white meat and firm white fish. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Casar de Burbia Mencía 2010
DO Bierzo $19.95 (392530) 14.6% alcohol
Mencía is an ancient grape now found in the mountainous region of El Bierzo in NW Spain. Earthy, smoky, leathery aromas overlay the ripe dark fruit, dried herbs and spice of this intensely purple, American-oak-aged red. It’s medium-full bodied with freshness to the texture and chalky tannins making their presence felt. There’s a structured frame for that dense almost chewy ripe plum and berry fruit flavour. Touches of vanilla and notions of coffee bean garnish the savoury dry finish. It’s good value for the cellar or matched now with beef short ribs or hearty grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)

• Luxardo Maraschino Excelsior has a $2 per bottle reduction from the price shown below now to March 29, 2015

**** drink or cellar
Luxardo Maraschino Excelsior Non vintage 

Veneto, Italy $26.05 (57448) 32.0% alcohol 

Based on the original Luxardo family recipe created in 1821, this viscous liqueur has been distilled from sour cherries. Subtle notes of warm red fruit, herbs, and a touch of red licorice rise from the glass. On the palate, it’s luscious, warm and sweet, with a fruity note reminiscent of its namesake maraschino, but also of spun sugar. The finish is long, sumptuous, deliciously sweet and subtly savory. Pick this up as an after-dinner digestif for Easter or, as suggested on the label, drizzle over a fresh fruit salad. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Ontario Wineries

Order the following four wines – along with the five wines reviewed in the previous newsletter of February 27, 2015 by the case of 12—mixed, if you like—with daily free delivery in Ontario to your home, office or restaurant from Riverview Cellars Estate Winery.

Dessert Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Riverview Cellars Vidal Ice Wine 2013 (200ml)
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $34.95 11.0% alcohol
This delectable treat is deep-golden amber offering aromas of quince, marmalade, dried apricot, candied zest and honey. Expressive, unctuous and lush, this rich, honeyed wine nevertheless displays great balance with the fine spine of acidity a well-defined backdrop for rich, luscious fruit flavours and texture. There’s great length on the finish with honeyed fruit lingering on the palate. Sip well chilled or serve with lobster in cream sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

White Wine

***1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
Riverview Cellars ‘Bianco’ Riesling/Gewürztraminer 2013
VQA Niagara River $14.95 11.5% alcohol
Sweetness combines with pungency on the nose, bringing to mind notions of white flowers and crisp green apple married to tropical fruit and spice. Off dry, light-medium bodied and fresh on the palate, flavours of apple, pear and lychee coalesce with sweet spice through a juicy, tangy finish. It’s refreshing and lively—an easy-going wine to serve on its own or with light appetizers. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
Riverview Cellars ‘Angelina’s Reserve’ Gewürztraminer 2013
VQA Niagara River $18.95 13.1% alcohol
This signature wine from Riverview offers a nose of rich aromas—rosewater, honey, lychee and exotic spice. Fruity, medium-full bodied, it offers a finely-honed balance, a luxurious, creamy texture, lush, tasty fruit and lively spiciness. The finish showcases that delightful, classic touch of bitterness. Pour with raclette or fondue. (Susan Desjardins)

Red Wine

**** drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Riverview Cellars Pinot Noir 2012
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $19.95 13.3%alcohol
Here’s an impactful Pinot displaying fresh, layered aromas of cinnamon toast, red cherry/berry, vanilla, floral notes and earth. It’s dry, medium bodied and firmly structured with perceptible tannins and lively acidity. The palate’s awash with vibrant red fruits—cherry, raspberry and cranberry. Vanilla and coffee bean mingle on the extended dry finish. This will work its magic with grilled beef or venison tenderloin with mushroom sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

Cheers, Vic and Susan