Winecurrent
October 20, 2014 Newsletter

Highlights include:

  • Exceptional value wines Exceptional Value!  – only 5 of 67 wines meet the strict quality-price guidelines – ranging from $13.95 to $30.00 found throughout the entire newsletter. All are identified by the Exceptional Value!icon. What strict guidelines?  Click here.
  • Finding Waldo(s) – this ‘Bordeaux blend’ includes all six permissable red grapes, except Carmenère; 2nd search - find the TV star with a raccoon-tail hat.
  • 5-star Wine – a bonanza with 6 wines ringing the bell - Tenuta dell’Ornellaia ‘Ornellaia’ 2011 @ 189.95 under Tuscan Feature; Dunn Vineyards ‘Howell Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 @ $111.95 and Far Niente Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 @ $146.95 with both under California: Red Wine; Lailey Vineyard ‘old vines’ Chardonnay 2012 @ $40.20 and Lailey Vineyard ‘Lailey 5’ 2012 @ $45.20 as well as The Grange ‘Lot 1’ Sparkling Wine - Brut 2010 @ $30.00, all under New in Ontario Wineries
  • Susan Selects – Domaine Hamelin Chablis ‘1er Cru’ Beauroy 2011 4½ stars @ $29.95 under France: White Wine.
  • Vic Picks – Williams & Humbert ‘Walnut Brown Rare Old Brown’ Oloroso 4 stars @ $13.95 under Fortified Wine: Sherry.

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, some stores post earlier. For LCBO wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. Always best to phone first.

Using the winery name link in the New in Ontario Wineries section, allows you to order for home, office or restaurant delivery subject to each winery’s shipping procedure.

Using the link or contact details for agents under Private Order or Consignment Wine, allows you to order for home, office, restaurant delivery subject to agent’s shipping procedure.

Vintages Release: October 25, 2014

Feature: Tuscan Trophies

**** drink or cellar
Rocca Di Castagnoli Chianti Classico 2011
DOCG Chianti Classico $20.95 (222810) 14.0% alcohol
Fresh, lively aromas of strawberry, red currant, spice and cherry introduce a tang-laden flow of passion fruit and sour cherry decorated with piquant spice. It’s medium weight with decent texture and a finish and aftertaste offering riper, sweeter, dark berry fruit for balance and charm. Pour with chorizo and prawn paella. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Roggiano ‘Morellino di Scansano’ 2012
DOCG Morellino di Scansano $16.95 (946954) 13.5% alcohol
Smoke, leather and exotic spice open up a gorgeous river of sweet, ripe fruit—blackcurrant and dark cherry—balanced, structured, with purity of fruit. The long, dry finish and aftertaste replay flavours decorated with black licorice and dark chocolate. It’s medium-plus bodied with satin-smooth mouth feel and plenty of style and panache. Pick up a few for pouring with barbecued red meat, roast beef, hearty stew and game. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 cellar
Luce della Vite ‘Luce’ 2011
IGT Toscana $99.95 (685263) 14.5% alcohol
Heady aromas of fresh red and black cherry entwine with cedar and dark chocolate aromas as precursors to a sweet, ripe surge of blackcurrant and cassis interlaced with fennel, cocoa and red cherry—deftly balanced with complexity and charm. It’s medium-full weight with good mouth feel and lingering, mouth-watering aftertaste. It’s pricey, but delivers in spades. (Vic Harradine)

***** cellar
Tenuta dell’Ornellaia ‘Ornellaia’ 2011
DOC Bolgheri Superiore $189.95 (722470) 14.5% alcohol
This is well structured, showcasing complexity, purity of fruit and great promise for the patient collector. Rich aromas of rose petals, cedar, dark berry fruit and exotic incense billow from this full-bodied, firm and concentrated beauty. Blackcurrant, cassis and sweet, ripe mulberry coat the palate melding with a solid tannin underpinning, framed by excellent tang. Think about opening 2020 to 2030. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Poggio Verrano ‘Chance’ 2006
IG Maremma Toscana $35.95 (239707) 15.0% alcohol
This aged, unfiltered red blend of Merlot, Cab Sauv, Sangiovese and Cab Franc, wafts from the glass with perfumed aromas of pipe tobacco and savory herbs. It spills over the palate with gusto—ripe mulberry and cassis mingling with racy red currant. It’s structured with good weight and creamy smooth mouth feel, finishing up fruit forward and lengthy with a tapestry of black plum, fig and raisin garnished with toasty, earthy notes. (Vic Harradine)

Mini-Feature: Chile

**** drink or cellar
Miguel Torres ‘Cordillera de Los Andes’ Syrah 2010
Maule Valley $19.95 (389700) 14.0% alcohol
Floral notes meld with red and dark cherry/berry aromas on the nose followed by a wash of tang-laden red currant and sour cherry balanced with dark Bing cherry and juicy black plum. Medium weight with nice texture, it finishes in a blaze of red berry fruit and hints of still-evolving tannin. Aerate/decant a couple of hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Sherry

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Williams & Humbert ‘Walnut Brown Rare Old Brown’ Oloroso
Jerez, Spain $13.95 (437467) 19.5% alcohol 
What a treat - what a bargain. Dark amber with tinges of green on the edge; the aromas are divine with dark raisin, caramel and fig predominant. Warm and sweet on the palate, look for the aromas to follow through to flavours plus some lovely spice and nutty notes. The long sweet finish of this dessert wine cries out for spiced nut cake or ginger snaps. (Vic Harradine)

Fortified Wine: New World

**** drink now
Quady ‘Elysium’ Black Muscat 2010
California $14.95 (276840) 15.0% alcohol

From a highly respected Muscat producer comes this intensely aromatic dessert wine featuring raspberry compote, dried fruit, spice and floral notes. Medium-full bodied, it’s tangy and sweet with rich berry flavours and floral notes persisting on a long, honeyed finish. Excellent value, it pairs with raspberry/blueberry tart or chocolate mousse. (Susan Desjardins)

Champagne

**** drink or cellar
Besserat de Bellefon ‘Cuvée des Moines’ Brut Non-vintage
AOC Champagne $54.95 (724955) 12.5 % alcohol
This is very well-priced vintage Champagne and being aged over a decade enhances the appeal. There’s great nerve and verve throughout showcasing citrus tang and minerality. Fine-bead mousse is a harbinger of sharp, nose-tingling aromas of lemongrass, flinty minerality and leesy notes. Flavours race across the palate, crisp, clean and refreshing with lemon drop, white grapefruit and notions of lime zest to the fore. Good to go now as a welcoming wine or dinner aperitif, it also pairs well with lighter-styled fish and seafood. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

**** drink now
Graham Beck Brut Non-vintage

WO Western Cape $18.95 (593483) 12.0% alcohol
A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, 30% of the wine for this sparkler was fermented in barrel, the blended wine undergoing 24 months of secondary fermentation in bottle. A charming pale-peach hue, the aromas of brioche, citrus, orchard fruit and spice drift from the glass. Dry, medium bodied, the mousse is mouth filling and creamy, the texture vibrant and the citrus and green apple flavours crisp. Finely crafted and lively, sporting good value. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now
Segura Viudas ‘Heredad Reserva’ Brut Cava Non-vintage

Spain $29.95 (558825) 12.0% alcohol
Golden, with some green notes, this limited-production Cava, a blend of the first pressing of estate-grown Macabeo and Parellada, displays depth and lovely balance. Intense aromas of pear, citrus and toasted butter pastry entice. Dry, bright and fresh, it has a refined creamy mousse and a lively, crisp texture. Rich flavours of Bosc pear and lemon-lime wash across the palate and linger on the clean, persistent finish. A sparkling wine of presence and weight in an elegant hand-blown bottle with a pewter crest and base, it presents well as a gift or served at any holiday gathering. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!  Oh Canada!
Tawse ‘Sketches’ Riesling 2013

VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (89029) 10.5% alcohol

Granny Smith apple, piquant spice and floral notes presage a dazzling array of lifted and lively flavours with racy Key lime pie, lemon curd and crisp, refreshing green apple to the fore. This is light on its feet and dances across the palate with creamy-smooth mouth feel and oodles of charm. The finish is refreshing and mouth-watering delicious. Terrific as a starter wine, it pours well with pan-seared or grilled sea food or freshly-shucked oysters. (Vic Harradine)

Okanagan Valley: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Burrowing Owl Merlot 2011
VQA Okanagan Valley $42.95 (585737) 14.5% alcohol
The lifted aromas of dark fruit—plum, cherry and currant—meld with mixed spice setting the stage for a rich, dense and lush, balanced river of sweet, ripe mulberry, bittersweet chocolate and espresso roast coating the palate. This is satin smooth, full flavoured and medium-full bodied. A long tangy finish layers on bramble berry pie and red currant, balanced and beautiful. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cakebread ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay 2012
Carneros, Napa Valley $85.95 (70763) 14.2% alcohol
From one of California’s iconic wineries, this throws down the gauntlet to the ABC club—anything but chardonnay—with an involved rendition of California Chardonnay. Aromas of ripe red apple and pear interweaving with baking bread and citrus herald a full-flavoured and fully textured delivery of palate-coating, creamy smooth flavours—nectarine a salad bowl of tropical fruit and tang-laden lemon curd. The lingering finish is lengthy and racy crisp. (Vic Harradine)

****drink or cellar
Cannonball Chardonnay 2012
Sonoma County $21.95 (311563) 13.9% alcohol
This is an easy-drinking quaffer that’s lovely on its own and just as lovely paired with roast chicken or pan-seared seafood. Piquant spice, apple and toasty, oaky notes precede a rich, luscious river of caramel apple, ripe pear and Mirabelle plum. It’s mid-full weight with good texture and a fresh, lively finish and aftertaste laced with baking spice and oodles of pineapple and lemony tang. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Far Niente Chardonnay 2012
Napa Valley $77.95 (539130) 14.3% alcohol
Both elegant and powerful, Far Niente is one of the best producers of Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon in California and this doesn’t disappoint—premium priced with premium quality to match. Tropical fruit, lemon curd, floral notes and baking spice tumble from the involved nose. Palate-bathing white nectarine, Granny Smith apple and lime cordial abound mingling with notions of salinity and lemon pie filling. It’s complex with good depth and purity of fruit and a long lip-smacking aftertaste.

**** drink or cellar
Rodney Strong ‘Chalk Hill’ Chardonnay
Sonoma County $24.95 (275552) 13.5% alcohol
Baking spice, toasty oak and notions of sweet vanilla on the nose attests to the barrel fermentation and oak aging. It wahes over the palate in delectable waves with minerality, lemon-lime zest, spice-infused pineapple and white nectarine all involved in the flavour profile. It’s clean and crisp on the lingering finish along with wisps of butterscotch and apple. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

***** cellar
Dunn Vineyards ‘Howell Mountain’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Napa Valley $111.95 (193763) 13.9% alcohol
Not for the faint of heart, this is California Cab at its muscular best. Dense and rich with purity of fruit and aging potential, aromas of blackcurrant, graphite and gamy notes bustle from the nose of this full-bodied, full-flavoured, full-bore stunner. Spice-infused, tang-laden briary berry and dark juicy cherry garnished with black licorice and smoky notes coat the palate replaying on the lengthy, dry, tangy finish. The still-resolving tannin commands respect by popping corks 2017-2025. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar
Far Niente Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Oakville, Napa Valley $146.95 (539098) 13.7% alcohol
This is silky smooth Cab with 7% Petit Verdot and a spoonful of Cab Franc. Dark toast and coffee aromas mingle with wisps of floral notes and dark berry fruit. Rich luscious waves of bramble berry and black licorice robed with mint and pipe tobacco wash over the palate and replay on the lengthy, deftly balanced aftertaste. It’s mid-plus weight, complex and structured; a three-hour aeration/decant will handle the supple tannin underpinning. Drink now to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Fess Parker Pinot Noir 2010
Santa Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County $33.95 (660597) 14.6% alcohol
Roasted herbs and savory bits mingle with red berry fruit on the nose of this sleek, racy Pinot. It bathes the palate with red currant and sour cherry adorned with forest floor and toasty notes, It’s balanced, medium bodied with good mouth feel and a dry, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Remember Fess Parker as TVs Davey Crockett? Yes, the same Fess Parker, the family still owns and runs the winery, Fess passed away in 2010. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Kendall-Jackson ‘Vintner’s Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Sonoma County $12.95 375 mL (706077) 13.5% alcohol
This is perfectly sized for moderate pours for two with grilled steak. Charred toast, herbs and spice and mixed field berry fruit aromas precede a lively surge of red cherry, ripe mulberry and baking spice. It’s tang-laden and lip-smacking good on the finish showcasing purity of fruit and good balance. There’s a lick of tannin that’s ameliorated with a two-hour aeration/decant then poured with seasoned, grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
McManis Family Vineyards Zinfandel
California $19.95 (266735) 13.5% alcohol
As with all wines from McManis, this oozes ripe fruit and a long fruit-forward aftertaste. Exotic spice, savory herbs and toasty bits herald a river of sweet, ripe fruit—bramble berry pie and dark juicy cherry interweaving with mixed spice and sweet vanilla. Medium-full bodied and nicely textured, the lengthy finish is fruity and delicious. (Vic Harradine)

Washington State: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Columbia Crest ‘Grand Estates’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Columbia Valley, Washington State $17.95 (240093) 13.5% alcohol
This is fruit forward, fully textured, complex and structured—can’t get enough of Washington State red wine in general, and in particular from Columbia Crest. Savory herbs, sharp spice and mixed, dark field berry fruit aromas set the table for a feast of flavour. Rich, dense blackcurrant, kirsch liqueur and mulberry jam coat the palate, infusing the lingering aftertaste. How good is that? (Vic Harradine)

Australia: White Wine

**** drink now
Yalumba ‘Y Series’ Viognier 2013

South Australia $16.95 (624502) 13.5% alcohol

Yalumba is a member of the exclusive Australia’s First Families of Wine that identifies Australian premiere family-owned producers. Lovely aromas of honeysuckle, pit fruit and mineral notes herald a clean, crisp and refreshing river of nectarine and apricot wreathed in minerality. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a delicious, lingering finish that’s on the hunt for a pan-seared fish or a bowl of steamed mussels. There’s good value here. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ben Glaetzer ‘Bishop’ Shiraz 2012
Barossa Valley, South Australia $39.95 (627869) 14.5% alcohol
This is rich, luscious and balanced with complexity and structure. Ben Glaetzer’s family has been in the Barossa since 1888, his dad, Colin, created the iconic E&E Black Pepper Shiraz, Ben is considered one of Australia’s best winemakers. Red and dark berry fruits garnished with cherry cola and kitchen spice aromas are a harbinger of the full-flavoured, generously textured river of blackcurrant, cassis and sweet vanilla along with wisps of toasty oak and black licorice. It’s balanced with good tang and a lingering aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Heartland Shiraz 2012
Langhorne Creek/Limestone Coast, South Australia $19.95 (661934) 14.8% alcohol
Ironically, here’s another red from Ben Glaetzer. Savory herbs, mocha and espresso roast aromas mingle with exotic spice and mixed field berry fruit aromas. Dense, fully textured waves of tang-laden red and dark cherry, dried currant and spice-infused wisps of black plum coat the palate, replaying on the lengthy, lip-smacking finish. Good to go now, pour with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Penfolds ‘Bin 407’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
South Australia $44.95 (414987) 14.5% alcohol
You’ll find the ‘407’ in the ‘Excellent’ category of the vaunted Langton’s Classification of Australia fine wine. This is delivered with structure, purity of fruit and oodles of style. Savory herbs, tobacco leaf and berry fruit on the nose, it bathes the palate with racy tang—sour cherry and red currant mingling with kitchen spice. This is mid-plus bodied with great nerve and verve throughout. Look for grainy tannin and more savory bits on the finish—aerate/decant three hours serving with veal scallopini, spicy tomato sauce and capers.

**** drink or cellar
Pirramimma ‘Katunga GTS’ 2012
McLaren Vale, South Australia $24.95 (203174) 14.8% alcohol
This hi-octane, unique blend, Grenache, Tannat, Shiraz, bounds from the glass with hi-toned aromas of gamy notes, vanilla, spice and herbs. It‘s tang-infused, streaking across the palate with pomegranate, red cherry and cranberry garnished with mocha, floral notes and dark coffee. This is full bodied and nicely textured with flecks of black plum compote on the tangy finish along with a solid lick of tannin from the Tannat—aerate/decant two hours. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Fairview Shiraz 2011
WO Coastal Region $16.95 (616358) 14.0% alcohol
Toasted oak, vanilla and roasted herb aromas announce a racy river of red cherry/berry fruit and passion fruit tang on the palate. It’s medium bodied with decent mouth feel and a crisp, dry, mouth-watering finish. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Hamelin Chablis ‘1er Cru’ Beauroy 2011
AOC Chablis $29.95 (391805) 12.5% alcohol
Brilliant, golden, this award winning wine showcases typical aromas of orchard fruit and citrus, floral notes and baking bread. Dry, medium bodied, there’s depth, roundness and a lovely silky texture. It’s an elegant, refined wine where the mineral character shines through and the clean, defined backbone of acidity is deftly balanced by ripe flavours of citrus and green apple. Fresh, flavourful, it’s satisfyingly long through the finish. Savour with creamy cheese. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Château Rigaud Faugères 2012
AOP Faugères $17.95 (939561) 14.0% alcohol
Inky purple, this intense blend is produced from organically grown Syrah aged in oak, the Grenache and Mourvèdre aged in concrete tanks, retain their fruit character. Lively ripe cherry/berry aromas mingle with spiced rose and pepper. Dry, medium-full bodied, the wine is framed by perceptible drying tannins and fresh acidity, the flavours favouring dark brambly fruit—black berry, chokecherry—a smoky, earthy quality and charry coffee bean notes. It finishes warm, dry and peppery. Serve with grilled meats and vegetables. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 cellar
Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe ‘La Crau’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2011
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $98.95 (951475) 15.3% alcohol
This cellar dweller is complex and well structured with a tannin-laced palate and finish. Sharp spice, sandalwood and earthiness on the nose, it dishes up a hi-alcohol, warm wash of piquant spice and a sweet luscious flow of ripe, dark berry fruit and sweet vanilla interwoven with espresso roast and fennel. It finishes long with a still-evolving tannin underpinning. Pop corks 2017-2023. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Famille Perrin ‘Les Christins’ Vacqueyras 2012
AOC Vacqueyras $24.95 (973453) 14.5% alcohol
Mocha, black licorice and black berry aromas pour from this balanced, fruit-driven red blend—80% Grenache, 20% Syrah. A ripe, luscious deluge of red and black cherry, kirsch liqueur and dried currant coats the palate, mid-plus weight, creamy smooth and delectable. The mid-length aftertaste is balanced and beautiful. Good to go now with the price-quality ratio skewed in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Quinta De Cabriz ‘Seleccionada’ Colheita 2011
DOC Dão $15.95 (247973) 13.0% alcohol
This red blend of premium Port grapes gives off effusive aromas of charred toast, earthy/forest floor entwined with dark berry fruit. It spills over the palate with ripe sweet waves of mulberry and dark Bing cherry nicely balanced with red cherry and red currant. It’s a bistro-styled, easy-going red that’s nicely balanced and textured with a pleasing finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Palacios Remondo ‘La Vendimia’ 2012
DOCa Rioja $16.95 (674564) 14.5% alcohol
Aromas of dark ripe berry fruit, plum, fig and raisin are harbingers of a measured and balanced flow of red and black currant flecked with spice. These replay on the dry, mouth-watering finish with oodles of racy tang. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and fashioned in a drink-me-now style. Pour alongside grilled prawn and veggie kebabs brushed with lemon juice. (Vic Harradine)

New in LCBO

Spirits

The following Single Malt is $5.00 off price shown until November 8, 2014

Bowmore Islay 12 Years Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Islay, Scotland $59.85 (330803) 40.0% alcohol
Well paced, well priced and well… delicious. After a light splash of water, perfumed aromas abound with abundant smoky notes mingling with piquant spice, herbs and buckwheat honey. It’s smooth, almost mellow on the palate with a replay of smoke interlaced with vanilla bean and wisps of salinity and crème brulée on the citrus-laced finish. My highest compliment—this was tough to spit. (Vic Harradine)

Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Red Knot Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
McLaren Vale, Australia $17.95 (91702) 14.0%
This has dark berry fruit and spice with toasty, smoky aromas on the nose. It washes over the palate with dark ripe cherry and ripe sweet mulberry fruit. It’s medium-plus bodied with good texture. This is an easy-going Shiraz showcasing very good flavour and depth. It lingers on the finish, balanced and fruit forward. (Vic Harradine)

The following wine is $3.00 off price shown until November 8, 2014

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ascheri Barolo 2010
DOCG Barolo, Italy $35.25 (341107) 14.0% alcohol
Lilac, cedar, spice and herb aromas interweave portending a tapestry of flavour. A rich river of tang-laden flavour coats the palate with blackcurrant and dark juicy cherry to the fore, nicely balanced with red cherry and wisps of cranberry and red currant jelly. It’s mid-plus weight with great mouth feel and loads of racy flavour. It finishes with a soft tannin underpinning and lip-smacking tang—pours well with osso bucco. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

Palatine Hills Estate Winery - receive free shipping anywhere in Ontario to your home, office or restaurant for all orders containing multiples of 12 bottles by phoning the winery @ +1 (905) 646-9617 or online direct from Palatine Hills. Here are the second five of 10 wines with the balance reviewed in the September 24/14 newsletter.

Sparkling Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Palatine Hills ‘Prestige’ Non-Vintage
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $23.00 12.5% alcohol
This ‘methode traditional’, Chardonnay sparkling wine opens with a frothy fine-bead mousse and aromas of baking bread, hazelnut and binned apple. It explodes in the mouth with lemon tang, ripe apple and pear and wisps of grapefruit pith. Replayed on the finish, the flavours persist through the aftertaste. This is best poured with pan-seared fish or seafood with a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

White Wine

**** drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Palatine Hills Gewürztraminer 2012
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $14.00 12.0% alcohol
Perfumed, intensely aromatic and redolent with aromas of rosewater, tropical fruit, exotic flowers and citrus zest, this satin-smooth wine is a wonderful expression of the grape. Just off dry, medium bodied, quite lush on the palate, the rich fruit flavours play through, balanced by well-defined acidity and that lovely pithy grapefruit-like bitter note that graces the zesty extended finish. Serve with lightly spiced East Asian cuisine. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now  Oh Canada!
Palatine Hills Riesling 2012
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $13.00 10.5%alcohol
Orchard fruit, citrus and subtle mineral notes dominate the nose of this fruity, light-medium bodied wine. A good backbone of cleansing acidity balances the sweet, tasty fruit and delivers a fresh, clean finish. A delicious sipping wine, it’s great with appetizers, salads, light fish or chicken dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

Red Wine

****1/2 cellar  Oh Canada!
Palatine Hills ‘Neufeld Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc 2012
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $20.00 14.0% alcohol
Rich, spice-laden red and dark berry fruit aromas mingle with notions of graphite heralding a gorgeous tang-laden mouthful of red cherry and blackcurrant interlaced with piquant spice and hints of blueberry. It’s structured, mid-full weight with good mouth feel and a solid underpinning of evolving tannin on the finish. The finish and aftertaste also showcase purity of fruit and oodles of charm. Handsomely rewarding careful cellaring—great value here—expect this to blossom into something quite special when popping corks 2016 to 2021 and possibly beyond. (Vic Harradine)

**** cellar  Oh Canada!
Palatine Hills ‘Neufeld Vineyard’ Meritage 2012
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $30.00 14.0% alcohol
Blackcurrant, baking spice and aromas of black licorice set the table for rich, luscious waves of briary berry, red currant, sweet vanilla and cassis. It’s medium-full bodied with generous texture and a lengthy finish laced with tangy fruit, good moderating acidity and a firm lick of tannin—there’s a savoury herb and spice bite on the aftertaste. Tuck away, allowing this to knit together, and open 2017 – 2023 serving with grilled red meat or hearty stew like osso bucco. (Vic Harradine)

Lailey Vineyard consistently produces wine that over-delivers in value, taste and overall enjoyment. Winemaker, Derek Barnett, dropped by for an annual visit with 12 wines for tasting. Six are reviewed below with the balance already reviewed in the September 24/14 newsletter. Order a mixed case, or cases, for home, restaurant or office delivery online from Lailey Vineyard.

White Wine

***** drink now  Oh Canada!
Lailey Vineyard ‘old vines’ Chardonnay 2012
VQA Niagara River $40.20 13.5% alcohol
A stunning Chardonnay harvested from 38-year-old vines, this was 16 months in French oak on spent yeast cells with stirring throughout. Baking brioche, Asian spice, smoke and toast aromas mingle with notions of apple on the nose. Medium-full bodied and absolutely creamy smooth, it rolls over the palate with a rush of piquant spice, crisp apple, white peach and baked pear. It’s balanced on a pin with a lengthy finish and aftertaste—this was tough to spit. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
Lailey Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.20 13.0% alcohol
A complex, structured and beautifully layered effort here—60% barrel fermented, the balance stainless steel, 5 months on lees and 3 months in inert, seasoned oak barrels. It’s medium weight with very good texture and offers good value. There’s a lovely aroma of crisp apple and ripe pear along with wisps of floral notes, citrus and herbs. That beautiful tangy apple and ripe juicy pear replay on the palate and balanced aftertaste mingling with citrus and minerality—mouth watering and crisp. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
Lailey Vineyard Riesling 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.20 10.0% alcohol
The quality-price balance tips well in your favour. A lifted nose of piquant spice, crisp Granny Smith apple interweave with aromas of flinty/minerality. A tapestry of balanced and beautiful flavour bathe the palate with white peach, racy lemon and Key lime to the fore. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a lingering, lip-smacking finish—clean, crisp and refreshing. How good is that? (Vic Harradine)

Red Wine

***** drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Lailey Vineyard ‘Lailey 5’ 2012
VQA Niagara River $45.20 13.5% alcohol
This Bordeaux blend—39% Merlot, 24% Cab Franc, 21% Cab Sauv, 9% Petit Verdot, 7%, Malbec—showcases purity of fruit, deft balance, structure and complexity. It’s a dense, stylish red with aromas of dark coffee, blackcurrant and black plum heralding a balanced wash of dark juicy cherry and bramble berry garnished with sweet vanilla and excellent tang-laden acidity. Full flavoured and fully textured it dishes up a delightfully lengthy mouth-watering aftertaste. (Vic harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Lailey Vineyard ‘old vines’ Pinot Noir 2012
VQA Niagara River $45.20 13.5% alcohol
Only 67 cases produced of this sexy, structured, complex gem. Mixed spice, beetroot and briary berry aromas precede a surge of ripe, dark berry fruit and spice-infused red cherry robed in hints of toasty oak—barrel-aged only 6 months in French oak—adorned with roasted herbs. It’s medium bodied with nice texture and a solid line of red berry fruit tang on the dry, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Private Order

Order any or all of the following wine by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery (in Ontario) from Nokhrin Wines or email, This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617.

White Wine

**** drink now
Quinta de Curvos ‘Avesso’ Vinho Verde 2013
DOC Vinho Verde, Portugal $14.95 13.0% alcohol
Floral notes, savory herbs and mineral/saline aromas mingle with lime cordial on the nose. It bathes the palate with a full-flavoured surge of Meyer lemon, grilled pineapple and white peach. Mid weight and nicely textured, the finish is tangy, racy and lip-smacking delicious. Pour with pan-seared fish and shellfish. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Gebrüder Steffen Weissburgunder ‘Trocken’ 2013
Qualitätswein Mosel, Germany $24.95 12.0% alcohol
Apple, pear and citrus notes on the nose, this bathes the palate with soft, fruit flavour—lime cordial, yellow plum and lemon pie filling. It’s light on its feet with a mid-length finish and aftertaste. Pour on its own as an easy-drinking aperitif or alongside lighter-styled canapés. (Vic harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Gebrüder Steffen Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling - Kabinett 2013
Pradikätswein Mosel, Germany $24.95 8.0% alcohol
This delivers purity of fruit, balance, structure and a boatload of style and charm. Lemon-lime, tangerine and floral notes open this balanced and bountiful Riesling. It dazzles the palate with lime cordial, crisp green apple and grilled pineapple. It’s off dry, medium bodied with creamy smooth mouth feel and a monumental finish and aftertaste—lengthy, mouth watering, and just plain delicious. (Vic Harradine)

*** drink or cellar
Hallgartener Jungfer Riesling ‘Halbtrocken’ 2012
Qualitätswein Germany $17.95 11.5% alcohol
Lime and mineral aromas precede a racy, tang-infused flow of lemon, lime and white grapefruit pith streaking across the palate, infusing the crisp, refreshing aftertaste. It’s light-medium bodied with delicate texture and oodles of nerve and verve. Serve with grilled garlic prawns and a squeeze of fresh lemon or scallop ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

Rosé Wine

*** drink now
Quinta de Curvos ‘Rosé’ Vinho Verde 2013
DOC Vinho Verde, Portugal $13.95 11.5% alcohol
Aromas of strawberry and red berry fruit adorned with exotic spice abound. Strawberry, rhubarb, blood orange and red grapefruit pith streak over the palate infusing the crisp, fresh finish. This is light on its feet with a mid-length, dry, racy aftertaste.

Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Cantine Colle di San Domenico Aglianico 2013
IGT Campania, Italy $17.95 12.5% alcohol
Campfire smoke, charred toast and roasted herb aromas herald a mid-weight tangy, warm river of briary berry and blackcurrant syrup cloaked in mincemeat pie spice. There’s good texture with flavours replayed on the finish and aftertaste. A still-resolving tannin base suggests a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

New in Wine Online

 

Sideroad Twenty Cellars sell wine online and through individual brokers and produce their own VQA wine under the label, ‘Red Tractor’. To place an order for the following wines, phone toll free 1.866.953.7163 if within the free-dial area for 416 use 416.477.5842 or online via Sideroad Twenty Cellars.

**** drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
13th Street Gamay Noir 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 13.5% alcohol
This is rich and luscious from the get go with purity of fruit, good balance and style. The lifted nose is a tapestry of aromas—black licorice, dark cherry/berry, baking spice and sandalwood. It’s tang-laden throughout with red cherry and red currant prevalent interwoven with ripe black plum, earthiness and notions of briary berry. It’s mid weight and well textured with a solid tannin underpinning—ameliorate with a two-hour aeration/decant or pop corks 2016 and beyond. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Alpha Zeta Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso 2012
DOC Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso, Italy $25.00 13.5% alcohol
This is a 70% Corvina, 30% Rondinella blend that dishes up a delightful mouthful of texture and flavour with a lovely, lip-smacking finish. Aromas of cherry, espresso roast and mixed spice fill the air. It coats the palate with a concentrated river of black berry fruit and red currant, balanced and creamy smooth. The finish is lengthy and fruity with good tang from sour cherry on the dry aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now  Oh Canada!
Coyote’s Run ‘Red Paw’ Pinot Noir 2012
VQA Four Mile Creek $24.95 13.5% alcohol
Piquant spice and cherry/berry fruit on the nose, this shifts into gear on the palate with a nicely textured stream of rich red fruit with spice-infused red currant and rhubarb pie to the fore. It’s medium bodied with a dry, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Good to go now, pour with prawn and chorizo paella. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Creekside Estate ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
VQA St. David’s Bench $34.95 13.5% alcohol
Smoky, oaky, toasty notes interlace with pipe tobacco aromas preceding a full-bore gusher of blackcurrant, cassis and dark, juicy cherry—fully textured, tang laden and persistent through the lingering, drop-dead gorgeous aftertaste. It’s dense, concentrated and the firm tannin structure takes no prisoners—aerate three hours before pouring and serve with a fine cut of seasoned, grilled red meat. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
Creekside Estate ‘Laura’s White’ 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 13.0% alcohol
This blend of six white varieties, mostly aromatic, wafts from the glass with honeydew melon, peach, pear and savoury herbs. It’s clean crisp and refreshing with the palate dominated by tangy citrus, crisp green apple and minerality. The finish replays palate flavours, mouth-watering and dry. Pour alongside pan-seared freshwater fish under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!  Oh Canada!
Creekside Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 12.0% alcohol
The heady aromas of grassy notes, nettles and piquant spice precede a racy, zingy streak of passion fruit, lemongrass and Key lime pie that awaken the taste buds and flow through the crisp, clean finish. It’s good weight and satin smooth with an aftertaste of pineapple and lemon drop. Pour with crumbled chèvre and olive oil over arugula. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Creekside Estate ‘Broken Press’ Syrah 2011
VQA St. David’s Bench $39.95 13.5% alcohol
Red and black berry fruit aromas mingle with peppery notes and dark coffee before bathing the palate with a deftly balanced, tang-infused river of red currant, sour cherry and juicy black Bing cherry interwoven with piquant spice, earthy notes and oodles of charm. It’s mid-plus weight with generous mouth feel and a dry, lip-smacking aftertaste. Good to go now with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Empordàlia Vedera Negre 2013
DO Empordà, Spain $14.00 14.0% alcohol
Here’s an easy-going red blend that’s an even split between Grenache and Carignan and the price-quality balance tips well in your favour. Spice-infused red and black berry fruit mingling with roasted herb aromas signal a balanced, palate-bathing river of flavour persisting through the long finish—dark ripe mulberry, cassis and red and black cherry galore. It’s full in the mouth with oodles of charm. Serve now with the red meat you grill and pull from your barbecue. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now  Oh Canada!
The Grange Pinot Noir 2011
VQA Prince Edward County $16.95 13.0% alcohol
Exotic spice, red berry fruit and earthy notes open this light-on-its-feet, racy charmer. It streaks across the palate with spice-laden red currant and passion fruit interweaving with sour cherry and oodles of tang. There’s perceptible tannin on the aftertaste, easily handled with a two-hour aeration/decant. Pour with pasta Bolognese or meat-laden pizza. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar Exceptional Value!  Oh Canada!
The Grange ‘Lot 1’ Sparkling Wine - Brut 2010
VQA Prince Edward County $30.00 12.2% alcohol
This delivers in spades—alluring aromas, crisp and refreshing tang, delicious flavour and a stunning finish… What’s not to like? A 65% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir blend of 100% estate fruit, fashioned in the traditional method, it jumps from the glass with sexy aromas of leesy notes, baked brioche, apple and pear. It’s crisp, clean and refreshing on the palate with lemon yoghurt and Key lime pie melding with minerality. It replays these on a monumentally long, tangy finish and aftertaste coupled with wisps of white peach and melon. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now  Oh Canada!
Malivoire Pinot Gris 2013
VQA Beamsville Bench $19.95 12.0% alcohol
Lovely aromas of kitchen spice, peach and apricot dominate the nose along with mineral notes. It’s light-medium bodied and nicely textured with a generous amount of delectable fruit flavour on the palate and mid-length aftertaste—pineapple, white peach and lemon-lime tang. Good to go now, it sips well on its own and pours well with roast chicken or veal cutlets. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Red Tractor Cabernet Franc 2012
VQA Creek Shores $17.49 13.0% alcohol
The quiet nose of this gold-medal winner at the Ottawa Wine Challenge delivers cedar, spice and dark berry fruit as a harbinger of a light-ruby hued, light-bodied red with excellent tang from red currant, cranberry and sour cherry flavour on the palate. These replay on the lip-smacking finish garnished with savoury herbs and notions of earthiness. This is drinking well now with pasta in tomato sauce or meat lasagna. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now  Oh Canada!
Red Tractor Chardonnay 2012
VQA St, David’s Bench $19.99 13.0% alcohol
This silver medal winner from Intervin and the 2013 Royal Winter Fair offers quite a package. Sandalwood, nutty notes and orchard fruit aromas unlock smooth, mellow, palate-coating flavours of nectarine, melon and tangy lemon curd robed in soft spice and baked apple. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and crisp, clean, lengthy aftertaste. Pour with supermarket, rotisserie-roast chicken or slow-roast pork. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan