Winecurrent
October 10, 2014 Newsletter

Highlights include:

  • Exceptional value wines Exceptional Value!  – 6 of 93 wines meet the strict quality-price guidelines – ranging from $13.95 to $31.95 found throughout the entire newsletter. All are identified by the Exceptional Value!  icon. What strict guidelines?  Click here.
  • Finding Waldo(s) – only one 5-star red wine and only one 5-star white wine, also earned a Exceptional Value!.
  • 5-star Wine – A bonanza with 6 wines ringing the bell - Mitolo ‘Savitar’ Shiraz 2009 @ $49.95 under Australia: Red Wine; Château Clarke 2009 @ $37.95 under France: Red Wine ; Le Serre Nuove Dell’Ornellaia 2012 @ $59.95 and Gatteschi ‘Podere Ciona’ Chianti Classico ‘Riserva’ 2010 @ $31.95, both under Italy: Red Wine; Lailey Vineyard ‘dry - Late Harvest’ Riesling 2013 @ $25.20 and Lailey Vineyard ‘unfiltered’ Merlot 2012 @ $35.20 with both under New in Ontario Wineries.

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, some stores post earlier. For LCBO wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. Always best to phone first.

Using the winery name link in the New in Ontario Wineries section, allows you to order for home, office or restaurant delivery subject to each winery’s shipping procedure.

Using the link or contact details for agents under Private Order or Consignment Wine, allows you to order for home, office, restaurant delivery subject to agent’s shipping procedure.

Vintages Release: October 11, 2014

Feature: Sonoma, California

****1/2 drink or cellar
Flowers ‘Sonoma Coast’ Chardonnay 2012
Sonoma Coast $64.95 (215210) 13.8% alcohol
Toasty notes, baking spice and wisps of citrus aromas precede a mellow, smooth, simply delicious stream of tropical fruit, apple and pear interlacing with minerality and delectable lemony tang. It’s balanced, complex and medium full bodied with flavours replaying on the scrumptious, lengthy finish. Pour on its own or alongside roast turkey with all the fixings. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Francis Ford Coppola ‘Director’s Cut’ Zinfandel 2011

Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County $32.95 (203208) 14.5% alcohol

Aromatic and nicely balanced, this dishes up a firm and focused Zin that’s quite good value. Red and black fruit aromas interweave with spice and charry notes on the nose. Beautiful and balanced flavours of ripe mulberry, sour cherry and cassis build on the palate infusing the lengthy finish and aftertaste. Each sip’s better than the previous with fine-grained tannin providing structure and age-ability. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Ridge ‘Lytton Springs’ 2012
Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County $52.95 (982413) 14.4% alcohol
One of the iconic ‘Three Rs of Zinfandel’, Ridge seldom, if ever, missteps—the Lytton Springs release, predominantly Zinfandel, is highly anticipated by many wine-lovers including high-end collectors. The other 2 Rs are Rosenblum and Ravenswood. Heady aromas of roasted herbs, mocha and red cherry abound. A sweet and tang river of red and black currant swirling around red cherry and spice coats the palate, medium-full bodied and creamy smooth. It’s balanced on a pin with purity of fruit, style, charm and a concentrated, fruit-laden finish. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Rodney Strong ‘Reserve’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $59.95 (382325) 15.0% alcohol
Spice-driven dark berry fruit aromas introduce a rich dense gusher of bramble berry pie and tangy black juicy cherry interwoven with sweet vanilla and dark bittersweet chocolate. Medium full bodied with good mouth feel, it dishes up a concentrated fruit-driven finish sporting kirsch liqueur and a supple tannin underpinning. It’s balanced and good to go now with a two-hour aeration/decant or alongside a mound of grilled back ribs brushed with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $89.95 (943472) 13.9% alcohol
A toasty oak, dark cherry/berry fruit and baking spice bouquet herald a rich dense wash of briary berry, black Bing cherry and cassis cascading over the palate, infusing the lingering finish and aftertaste. It’s opulent, mid-plus weight and generously textured, complex and structured. Still evolving tannin is easily ameliorated with a three-hour aeration/decant or wait to pop corks 2017-2025. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Folie à Deux Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Alexander Valley, Sonoma County $24.95 (186163) 13.9% alcohol
Roasted herbs, charred toast and mixed field berry fruit signal a palate-bathing river of sweet, ripe mulberry and dark cherry entwining with mixed spice and black licorice on the palate, finish and aftertaste. It’s medium-full weight with satin-smooth mouth feel, balance and charm. Although it’s ready to drink, a two-hour aeration/decant will add to the pleasure. Pour alongside slow-roast pork. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
MacMurray Ranch Chardonnay 2012
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County $21.95 (262063) 13.5% alcohol
This is balanced, luscious and medium-full bodied with a boatload of flavour. It bathes the palate with a beautifully textured stream of tangy lemon interlaced with grilled pineapple, poached pear and white peach. It features terrific balance, structure and a lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Give it a go with supermarket rotisserie chicken and slaw—good value. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Kenwood Vineyards Pinot Noir 2012
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County $21.95 (943225) 13.5% alcohol
Exotic spices, beet root and red cherry aromas are a clarion call for a tang-laden, racy river of sour cherry, passion fruit and cranberries coating the palate, replaying on the lengthy finish. It’s medium weight and nicely textured with a brushstroke of tannin and wisps of pomegranate on the aftertaste. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Kunde Zinfandel 2012
Sonoma Valley $23.95 (965921) 14.7% alcohol
Aromas of piquant spice, mixed berry fruit and savory herbs set the stage for a mid-full bodied, generously textured flow of bramble berry tart juxtaposed with red currant, red cherry and mixed spice. It’s deftly balanced with fully integrated tannin and oak throughout. The finish is lengthy, fruit-driven and stylish with added notions of sweet vanilla and espresso roast. Good to go now with grilled back ribs mopped with spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Benziger Chardonnay 2012
Sonoma County $19.95 (034777) 13.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of baking spice and a fruit salad bowl of pineapple, pear, peach and apple provide segue for a cornucopia of flavour with green apple, blood orange and lemon tang interwoven with wisps of nutty notes. Medium-plus weight and well textured, it drives through the finish with style and panache finishing fruit-forward and mouth-watering good. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
MacRostie Pinot Noir 2012
Sonoma Coast $34.95 (674911) 14.2% alcohol
Strawberry, black pepper and baking spice mingle with aromas of toasty notes on the nose of this cooler-climate Pinot Noir. Sweet ripe fruit blanket the palate on contact with black raspberry, ripe mulberry and black juicy cherry to the fore. It’s mid weight with good texture and balance. The back palate, dry finish and aftertaste deliver balancing tang with passion fruit and sour cherry joining in. There’s structure and charm throughout with each sip as good or better than the previous—the perfect partner for roast turkey dinner. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Cannonball Merlot 2012
Sonoma County $21.95 (342824) 13.8% alcohol
Rich aromas stream from the glass of this hedonistic red—ripe dark cherry, sweet vanilla, mocha and baking spice. This drink-me-now Merlot coats the palate with a surge of ripe black cherry and spice-infused briary berry garnished with mocha and fennel. It’s fruit-forward and balanced with concentration and charm. Pour with rare-grilled flank steak. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
St. Francis Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Sonoma County $29.95 (671164) 14.0% alcohol
The quiet nose begrudgingly gives up aromas of toasty oak, black currant and sweet vanilla. It bathes the palate with a medium-plus bodied, nicely textured wave of spice-infused bramble berry interlaced with cassis and mocha. It finishes with a replay of flavours and oodles of fruit. Pour with beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Decoy Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

Sonoma County $33.95 (186171) 13.5% alcohol

A lifted nose of dark berry fruit, black plum compote and mixed spice presage a balanced and stylish surge of black currant, black berry jam and black Bing cherry robed in roasted herbs and toasty, smoky oak. It’s mid-full bodied with good mouth feel and lengthy finish, replaying palate flavours with a supple tannin underpinning. A lovely California Cab with structure and complexity. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Ravenswood ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2011
Sonoma County $21.95 (673798) 14.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of exotic spice, sandalwood and notions of vanilla drift from this mid-plus bodied, nicely textured Zin. A spice-laden river of piquant spice, savory herbs, black plum and dried currant drives over the palate infusing the lingering finish and aftertaste. It’s balanced and fruity throughout. (Vic Harradine)

Mini-Feature: Piedmont, Italy

**** drink or cellar
Fontanafredda ‘Raimonda’ Barbera D’Alba
DOCG Barbera D’Alba $16.95 (023135) 13.5% alcohol
Oodles of exotic spice, forest floor and sandalwood aromas usher in a swirling tapestry of sweet, ripe fruit caressing the palate with mulberry and black currant to the fore interlaced with red cherry and dried currant providing balance and charm. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and lingering dry finish. This is good value and certainly worth taking a punt. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Prunotto Mompertone 2011
DOC Monferrato $18.95 (388587) 14.0% alcohol
Lively, fresh red cherry and cassis aromas set the stage for racy flavours of red currant and pomegranate mingling with a dazzling array of black licorice, espresso roast and campfire smoke on the palate. It’s medium bodied with balance and structure throughout. Flavours replay on the back palate and finish joined by sweeter, riper mulberry and black cherry, the aftertaste is lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Dolianum ‘San Maté’ Dogliani 2011
DOCG Dogliani $16.95 (378729) 14.0% alcohol
This is full of nerve and verve with dark coffee, charred toast savory herbs heralding a streak of tang-laden fruit—red plum, red cherry and red currant on the palate. The mouth-watering aftertaste layers on ripe black plum, raisin and a supple tannin underpinning adding interest and structure. It’s mid weight and pretty good value—aerate/decant for two hours. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Travaglini Gattinara 2008
DOCG Gattinara $29.95 (713354) 13.5% alcohol
An alluring bouquet of exotic spice and cedar mingling with dark berry fruit introduce a smooth mellow flow of dried currant, red cherry and cranberry flowing over the palate infusing the dry, balanced finish and aftertaste. This is a lovely example of an aged red with soft tannin and still showcasing soft fruit flavour and good acidity. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with a lingering, mouth-watering finish. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Angelo Negro ‘Cascinotta’ Barbaresco 2010
DOCG Barbaresco $26.95 (268953) 14.0% alcohol
This already shows age in its light-ruby hue, and tempting aromas on the nose—lilac, mixed spice and pipe tobacco. It’s fresh and lively on the palate with sour cherry entwining with red grapefruit tang and a lick of grainy tannin. Medium-plus weight and generously textured, it finishes in a blaze of crisp refreshing acidity, savory herbs and still-evolving tannin. Aerate/decant an hour and pour alongside spaghetti Bolognese. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Cascina Dardi Bussia Barolo 2007
DOCG Barolo $35.95 (268516) 14.0% alcohol
Ripe red and black berry fruit, floral notes and Asian spice waft from this charming, complex Nebbiolo. A surge of palate-bathing briary berry and ripe black cherry shower the palate interlaced with earthy notes. It’s medium-full bodied with satin smooth texture and a balanced and beautiful lengthy aftertaste. If you fish in pricey waters, reel a few of these on board, popping corks now to 2025. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Justino Henriques ‘Fine Medium Dry’ Madeira
Madeira, Portugal $16.95 (385823) 19.0% alcohol
Amber hued in the glass, a dazzling array of fig, raisin, apricot and spun sugar aromas forecast a palate-caressing wash of glorious nectar with spice, tang, and sweet ripe flavour galore. Peel marmalade, caramel, desiccated apricot and piquant spice interlace with excellent moderating acidity. One of the wine world’s very affordable, very delicious luxuries, sip on its own after dinner or pour with foie gras, consommé, blue cheese or fruit flan. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Osborne Pedro Ximenez ‘1827’ Sweet Sherry

DO Jerez $17.95 (047944) 17.0% alcohol

Sherry conjures up images of ‘cooking sherry’ and tippling Aunt Matilda … pity. It’s a delicious, sophisticated, misunderstood wine and Sherry drinkers love it that way; it keeps the price ridiculously low. This is sweet, viscous and brimming with flavour and charm—toffee, nutty nuances and desiccated berry fruit interlaced with spice and raisins. It pours well on its own as the dessert or alongside blue cheese, custards or dark, spiced fruit cake. Pick up a bottle, serve chilled, let me know what you think. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

**** drink now Oh Canada!
Blue Mountain Brut

Okanagan Valley $27.95 (206326) 12.5% alcohol

Blue Mountain is well known for its quality, both in sparkling wines and Pinot Noir. Produced in the traditional method and aged 24 months on the lees, this dry, pale-gold blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris displays alluring aromas of butter biscuit, pear, ripe apple and citrus. The refreshing mousse has a fine, creamy texture, while the palate offers vivid citrus and light tree-fruit flavours. Light-medium bodied, the wine is in fine balance with a crisp, lengthy aftertaste. With so few wines from the Okanagan finding their way here, you won’t want to miss this one. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Louis Bouillot ‘Perle Rare Brut’ Crémant de Bourgogne 2009
AOC Bourgogne $19.95 (178137) 12.0% alcohol
Apple, pear and citrus aromas mingle with wisps of yeast and nutty notes on the nose of this lovely sparkler. Look for more of those orchard fruits on the palate, tangy lemon yoghurt, crisp green apple and a lovely dollop of poached pear sweetness for balance. It finishes in a crisp, refreshing blaze on the aftertaste. This is stylish and classy with the price-quality balance tipped in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Carpenè Malvolti ‘Cuvée Brut Conegliano Valdobbiadene’ Prosecco Superiore
DOCG Veneto $16.95 (727438) 11.0% alcohol
This is brimming with a solid line of orchard fruit on the nose and palate with aromas of apple and pear joined by flavours of white peach and notions of lemon drop—dry, crisp and refreshing. It’s light on its feet with an affinity for lighter-styled dishes like chicken or seafood canapés or sipped on its own before dinner. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
One + One = Three ‘Cygnus Reserva’ Brut Nature Cava Non-Vintage

DO Cava, Spain $19.95 (352856) 11.5% alcohol

There’s very good value here. This sparkling, organic gem was produced from the holy trinity of Cava grapes— Xarel-lo 40%, Parellada 30% and Macabeo 30%. Lifted aromas of apple and pear interweave with mint and wisps of piquant ginger heralding flavours of apple, mineral/slate and strawberry wreathed in lemon curd and toasty notes. This has good mousse and a delightfully refreshing, lip-smacking aftertaste—certainly a cut above the norm. Pour with steamed mussels or pan-seared fish. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

**** drink now  Oh Canada!
Cave Spring ‘Estate Bottled’ Gewürztraminer 2012
VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (302059) 14.0% alcohol
Lychee, tangerine and pit fruit aromas herald a spic-laden wash of rosewater and white peach interweaving with lemon grass and racy citrus acidity. It’s medium bodied and quite nicely textured with a dry, balanced and beautiful, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste garnished with the delightful tell-tale bite of well-made Gewürzt.. Pick up a couple serving with smoked salmon and a cream cheese-smeared bagel. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Fielding ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (164491) 12.5% alcohol
The price-quality balance here tips in your favour. Racy citrus and piquant spice aromas provide segue for a delectable wash of tangy lemon-lime and poached pear mingling with spiced apple crumble. It’s light-medium bodied with nice texture and a crisp, refreshing finish. It pours well with grilled chicken strips over Caesar salad. (Vic Harradine)

Okanagan Valley: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Nk’Mip ‘Qwam QWMT’ Chardonnay 2011
VQA Okanagan Valley $22.95 (391813) 13.5% alcohol
Heady, perfumed aromas abound—exotic spice, vanilla, citrus and toast. It races over the palate with a tang-infused, laser-like streak of lemongrass, Key lime pie and moderating white peach with crisp pear. It’s mid-full bodied with a lean texture full of nerve and verve. It finishes dry and racy with notions of slate/minerality and lip-smacking, citrussy tang. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

****1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
Featherstone ‘Red Tail’ Merlot 2012

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 (131540) 13.5% alcohol 

Hand picked and hand sorted, this value-packed beauty was inoculated with indigenous yeast. It offers up aromas of black plum, baking spice and dark field berry fruit, bathing the palate with a silky smooth wave of ripe briary berry and black plum interweaving with sweet spice. Deftly balanced with purity of fruit, structure and oodles of style and charm, it finishes lengthy, fruit-forward and delicious. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine) 

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Henry of Pelham ‘Reserve’ Baco Noir 2012
VQA Ontario $24.95 (461699) 14.0% alcohol
H of P Baco is always a highly anticipated release, especially the ‘Reserve’—this won’t disappoint; it’s brooding, rich and complex with oodles of fruit and spice. Pipe tobacco and piquant spice aromas—black pepper and cinnamon—herald a gusher of tang-laden dark berry fruit and black Bing cherry garnished with baking spice and earthy notes. It’s full bodied, fully textured and good to go now with hearty red meats, grilled or roasted, drinking well now to 2020, perhaps beyond. (Vic Harradine)

California: White Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
La Crema Chardonnay 2012
Los Carneros, Sonoma County $39.95 (184929) 14.5% alcohol
Smoky, oaky aromas mingle with nutty notes and minerality on the nose. A stunning gusher of spice, apple crumble, lemon yoghurt and lip-smacking Key lime pie coats the palate. It’s a real treat—opulent, full bodied, richly textured, complex and stylish. The finish and aftertaste layer on more of the same robed in excellent acidity, deft balance and a generous helping of baked apple and wisps of butterscotch. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

Argentina: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Decero Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Mendoza $19.95 (195677) 14.5% alcohol
This is dense, concentrated, full bodied and fully textured. A tsunami wave of rich dark fruit—currant, cherry, mulberry—cut a wide swath across the palate with oodles of spice, oaky bits and herbs in tow. There’s oodles of spice and acidity, in proper proportion, and a supple tannin underpinning. It finishes fruit forward with black licorice and bittersweet chocolate. Tame this behemoth with seasoned grilled red meat after a two-hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Kaiken ‘Terroir Series Corte’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Mendoza $15.95 (384305) 14.5% alcohol
This is rich and luscious, with complexity and structure—the price-quality ratio skews well in your favour. Black juicy cherry and ripe black currant mingle with mixed spice and wood smoke on the nose while palate-coating waves of kirsch liqueur, sweet vanilla and cherry cola wash over the palate in waves. It’s medium-full weight with generous mouth feel and a fruity finish that’s long on excellent acidity and soft tannin underpinning. Just the ticket for grilled steak pulled off the Weber. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Concha Y Toro ‘Terrunyo Peumo Vineyard Block 27’ Carmenère 2010
Peumo, Cachapoal Valley $34.95 (562892) 14.5% alcohol
The subdued aromas of milk chocolate, savory herbs and kitchen spice pave the way for a raucous, robust gusher of sweet ripe mulberry and black plum compote interlaced with dark chocolate and toasty notes. It’s good to go now, full bodied and well textured with a balanced and beautiful aftertaste showcasing moderating acidity, style and charm. Pour alongside grilled steak, hearty stew or smoked grilled pork ribs slathered in spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

****1/2 drink now
Chateau Tanunda Hill Shiraz 2011

Barossa $18.95 (289983) 13.5% alcohol

Deep ruby, this award-winning Shiraz, grown on a warm site and subject to strict cropping of fruit, offers balance and excellent value. Aromas of clean, ripe dark fruit, blueberry pie, sweet spice and notions of earth and chocolate waft from the glass. Dry, medium-full bodied, it’s very nicely balanced, red and black berry flavours mingling with spice, lifted by a fresh texture and framed by fine-grained tannin. Enjoy the clean fresh finish and stash a few bottles to savour over the next couple of years. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
d’Arenberg ‘d’Arry’s Original’ Shiraz/Grenache 2010

McLaren Vale, South Australia $14.95 (942904) 14.1% alcohol

Rich and complex aromas abound—rose petals, wood smoke, black licorice and dried currants—heralding a balanced, structured river of black raspberry, dark bittersweet chocolate, blueberry and oodles of tangy acidity. It’s medium bodied with very good texture. The long lip-smacking finish and aftertaste sports supple tannin and deft balance. Pair with roast leg of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Elderton ‘Friends’ Shiraz 2011

Barossa Valley, South Australia $17.95 (660480) 13.5% alcohol

Earthy, spicy and chockfull of currants and dark cherry on the nose, it spills over the palate in waves—racy red currant and tangy cranberry interplaying with riper briary berry and mulberry. It’s medium-full bodied with a generous, fleshy mouth feel and a dry, tangy, lip-smacking aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar
Mitolo ‘Savitar’ Shiraz 2009
McLaren Vale, South Australia $49.95 (659581) 14.9% alcohol
Mitolo’s flagship red jumps from the glass with involved aromas of savory herbs, espresso roast, gamy notes, forest floor/earthiness and dark ripe berry fruit…whew. A heavily textured, full-bodied gusher of black currant jelly, black juicy cherry and blueberry tart coat the palate interwoven with black licorice and good moderating acidity. It’s balanced, complex and structured with a lingering finish and aftertaste. Good to go now, especially with grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Pirramimma Shiraz 2011
McLaren Vale, South Australia $24.95 (987784) 15.0% alcohol
Roasted herbs, gamy notes and dark cherry/berry fruit aromas waft from this crowd-pleasing, well-balanced Shiraz. Oodles of black currant and sweet ripe mulberry flavours wash over the palate mingling with black licorice, dark bittersweet chocolate, good acidity and a dusting of black pepper. It’s medium-plus bodied and complex with good mouth feel and a lingering, dry, mouth-watering aftertaste. Pop corks now, a two-hour aeration/decant enhances the experience. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
St. Hallett ‘Blackwell’ Shiraz 2010
Barossa Valley, South Australia $39.95 (535104) 14.5% alcohol
Opaque and brooding, this opens with a glorious bouquet of charred toast, warm bramble berry pie, exotic spice and campfire smoke. A fleshy flow of sweet, ripe mulberry and cassis interlace with notions of black pepper, earthiness and espresso roast. It’s mid-full weight with very good mouth feel and a lingering aftertaste that’s underpinned by firm, manageable tannin and framed by good acidity. It’s balanced, complex and oozing with fruit flavour. Drink now to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
The Contradiction Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvèdre 2010
Clare Valley, South Australia $24.95 (377077) 14.5% alcohol
This rich, luscious drink-me-now GSM—50% Grenache, 26% Shiraz, 24% Mourvèdre—from cool-climate Clare, dishes up a stylish, delectable red that’s balanced with ripe fruit and tang, complex and structured. How good is that? Aromas and flavours showcase purity of fruit and complexity—sweet ripe mulberry and kirsch liqueur interlace with sour cherry and red currant on the palate infusing the lengthy, tang-laden finish and aftertaste. It’s medium bodied with satin smooth texture and layers on mixed spice on the aftertaste. Good value here. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: White Wine

**** drink now
Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2013
Marlborough, South Island $18.95 (686675) 13.0% alcohol
This benchmark, much-medalled, Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc leaps from the glass with fresh, lively aromas of passion fruit, lemon-lime and flint/mineral notes. It races across the palate riding a wave of acidity—gooseberry, Key lime and Meyer lemon—interlacing with hints of peach and nectarine. It’s mid weight with a surprisingly soft mouth feel and a dry, lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour now on its own or paired with grilled calamari rings or sushi rolls. All in all, offering quite good value. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Villa Maria ‘Cellar Selection’ Sauvignon Blanc 2013
Marlborough, South Island $21.95 (974527) 13.0% alcohol
Grassy notes, nettles and minerality on the nose, this dishes up intense tanginess, great nerve and verve. Gooseberry, passion fruit and racy citrus dominate the palate along with wisps of grilled pineapple, peach and pear. It’s light on its feet with a dry, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. Serve alongside grilled and crumbled chèvre over arugula. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Cathedral Cellars Shiraz 2011

WO Western Cape $15.95 (561142) 14.0% alcohol

This opaque, purple Shiraz was aged 16 months in oak, principally French. The aromas rush from the glass—intense ripe black fruit, sweet spice, red rose, vanilla and a hint of licorice. Dry, medium-full bodied, it balances lots of black plum and berry flavours with the tang of currants and red berries. There's a firm structure, good acidity and freshness to the texture along with tasty notes of spice, white pepper and cinnamon toast on the lasting finish. Great balance and mouth feel! Pair with steak or ribs. (Susan Desjardins) 

****1/2 drink or cellar
Rustenberg ‘John X Merriman’ 2011
WO Stellenbosch $24.95 (707323) 14.0% alcohol
This is one of South Africa’s top reds, once you sip you’ll realize why—it’s complex, layered, opulent and balanced on a pin. Toasty notes, mocha and dark berry fruit aromas on the nose, this mid-full bodied, generously textured beauty flows over the palate with a balanced wash of sweet ripe mulberry, Christmas cake spice, black licorice and dried currant interlaced with good acidity from cranberry and red currant flavours. There’s a supple underpinning of fine-grained tannin and a lingering, lip-smacking aftertaste. Aerate/decant two hours pouring with seasoned grilled red meat. (Vic Harradine)

Morocco, North Africa: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine de Sahari 2012
AOG Guerrouane, Morocco $16.95 (092825) 13.0% alcohol
Here’s an easy-drinking, bistro-styled red from North Africa that offers up aromas of fig, raisin and exotic spice. It bathes the palate with a medium-bodied, creamy-smooth wash of plum pudding and spiced dark cherry. The finish is lengthy, balanced and delicious. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Domaine Schlumberger Kessler Riesling 2009
AOC Alsace Grand Cru $26.95 (061176) 13.5% alcohol
This is a fairly tight Riesling that’s tart and tangy, fully flavoured, crisp and refreshing. There’s a serious line of acidity—lemon-lime, crisp green apple, white grapefruit and minerality—interweaving with notions of white peach and yellow plum. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a tangy, clean finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Jean-Max Roger ‘Cuvée Les Caillottes’ Sancerre 2012
AOC Sancerre $25.95 (65573) 12.5% alcohol
Intense aromas of ripe stone fruit, passion fruit, tangy citrus and a whiff of nettles and herbs lift from the glass of this silky Sauvignon Blanc. Dry, medium bodied, elegant and clean, the flavours of citrus, herbs and a notion of wet stone capture the palate, maintaining their intensity and purity through the long-lasting, mouth-watering finish. Enjoy with halibut and a lemon caper sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

***** drink or cellar
Château Clarke 2009
AOC Listrac-Médoc $37.95 (503904) 13.0% alcohol
This is a wonderful opportunity for red-wine lovers of all stripes—it punches well above the price and the appellation, delivering a mouthful of flavour, complexity, purity of fruit, balance and structure. This Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend opens with floral aromas interwoven with cedar, black licorice and dark cherry. There’s full-bore fruit—black currant, black plum and dark Bing cherry along with wisps of mint and pipe tobacco. It’s fully textured, creamy smooth and accessible now with a long mellow aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Château Goubau ‘La Source’ 2010
AOC Côtes de Bordeaux – Castillon $19.95 (382846) 14.0% alcohol
Smoky, toasty with earthy/forest floor aromas preface a Bordeaux red that’s particularly attractive to those seeking to start or enhance a moderately priced collection. It washes over the palate with a solid flow of fruit—black currant and red cherry—with good acidity and a firm tannin underpinning. There’s toasty oak and sweet vanilla making an appearance, as well. It finishes a bit tight, but popping corks 2017-2020 will easily take care of that—careful short-term cellaring should pay off… handsomely. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine de Viaud 2006
AOC Lalande-de-Pomerol $32.95 (282475) 13.5% alcohol
A clove, roasted herb and red cherry/berry bouquet sets the table for a feast of tangy flavour with racy red currant and sour cherry laced with menthol and spice to the fore. It’s medium bodied with good texture and a racy, dry, mouth-watering finish. Pour alongside pasta Bolognese, lasagne or slow-roast pork slathered with barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Mommessin ‘Domaine de Champ de Cour’ Moulin-à-Vent 2012
AOC Moulin-à-Vent $19.95 (430876) 13.0% alcohol
Strawberry, cherry cola and mixed spice aromas mingle with lilacs opening the door for a medium-weight, nicely balanced flow of red currant, blueberry and cassis with notions of black plum compote. The finish is firm, dry and balanced while the aftertaste adds some mixed spice to the mix. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Brunel de la Gardine Crozes-Hermitage 2012
AOC Crozes-Hermitage $23.95 (339861) 13.0% alcohol
Crozes-Hermitage is the largest appellation in the Northern Rhône, overshadowed by eminent neighbours, Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage, but still a place to cast bait for well-made Syrah. This has structure, texture and balance along with complexity. Perfumed aromas of charred toast, roasted herbs and espresso roast herald a balanced river of red and dark berry fruit, baking spice and hints of truffles. It’s mid weight and fruity with supple tannin and good acidity on the finish. Aerate/decant two hours pouring with grilled red meats, wild game or hearty stew. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Grand Veneur ‘Clos de Sixte’ Lirac 2011
AOC Lirac $24.95 (076349) 15.0% alcohol
This is balanced and complex with purity of fruit and oodles of charm. Lirac, a neighbour of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, can produce wines of similar quality at less lofty prices—here’s one to try. Alluring aromas of dark berry fruit, sandalwood and gamy notes forecast an über-delectable surge of sweet, ripe, black fruit—currant, plum and cherry—interwoven with herbs and spice. It’s mid-plus bodied, with fleshy mouth feel and a lengthy delicious finish. How good is that? (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Ferraton Père & Fils ‘Samorëns’ Côtes du Rhône 2012
AOC Côtes du Rhône $14.95 (168708) 14.0% alcohol
Delicate aromas of sweet vanilla, mixed spice and cherry/berry fruit mingle with floral notes on the nose. It races across the palate with a tangy streak of red currant and pomegranate interlaced with wisps of savoury herbs and anise. Mid weight with good mouth feel and balance, it finishes crisp, dry and clean. Pour with meat-laden pizza or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Les Halos de Jupiter Vacqueyras 2010
AOC Vacqueyras $27.95 (274324) 15.0% alcohol
Sharp, lively aromas of red berry fruit and piquant spice forecast a gorgeous river sweet ripe fruit—briary berry, black Bing cherry and black plum—mingling with notes of herbs and spice. Mid-full bodied and nicely textured, the lengthy finish and aftertaste is fruit forward, tangy and well balanced. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Villa Medoro ‘Rosso Del Duca’ Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 2009
DOC Montepulciano D’Abruzzo $18.95 (357160) 14.0% alcohol
Aromas of campfire smoke, cedar and mixed field berry fruit set the table for a wash of tang-laden fruit with red cherry and cranberry giving way to a riper sweeter flow of black currant and bramble berry on the mid and back palate, finish and aftertaste. It’s mid-plus bodied with satin-smooth mouth feel and still-evolving tannin, anise and aromatic bitters peeking through on the lingering finish—aerate/decant two hours. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Schola Sarmenti Roccamora Nardo’ Negroamaro 2006
DOC Nardò $17.95 (379768) 13.5% alcohol
Tobacco, tarry notes and roasted herb aromas roll from this fully flavoured and full-textured gem from Puglia. A wide-ranging array of flavour—red and black cherry, spice-infused black plum, black licorice and espresso roast—meld perfectly with excellent acidity and firm tannin structure—aerate/decant for two-hours before serving. Rare to find eight-year-old wine so fresh and holding so well at this price point.(Vic Harradine)

***** cellar
Le Serre Nuove Dell’Ornellaia 2012
DOC Bolgheri Rosso $59.95 (606194) 14.5% alcohol
This fabulous red blend of international varieties—52% Merlot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Petit Verdot, 8% Cabernet Franc—was hand harvested, hand sorted, with each varietal fermented and aged separately – a total of 15 months in French oak barrels with 25% new and the balance one-year old. It streams from the glass with aromas of dark berry fruit, rose petals and roasted herbs. Fresh, lively flavours spill across the palate with black currant and briary berry, graphite and black licorice to the fore. It’s full bodied and generously textured with a monumentally lengthy, fruity aftertaste. Drink 2017-2022. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Gatteschi ‘Podere Ciona’ Chianti Classico ‘Riserva’ 2010

DOCG Chianti Classico, Italy $31.95 (385070) 13.0% alcohol

A dazzling red that’s structured, elegant, complex and stylish. Spice, tobacco, floral notes and leather aromas open this gem followed by a fleshy, creamy-smooth river of tangy, ripe bramble berry, cassis and black, juicy Bing cherry coating the palate in waves. It’s medium-full bodied with a balanced, fruit-forward aftertaste that lasts 30 or more seconds. A classic, not to be missed. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Quinta de la Rosa ‘Dourosa’ 2011
DOC Douro $15.95 (146233) 14.5% alcohol
Piquant spice, red and dark berry fruit and shades of tobacco leaf herald a mouthful of delectable flavour brimming with style and deft balance—black currant, red plum and Asian spice bathe the palate, replaying on the dry, lingering, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. This is medium-plus bodied with satin-smooth mouth feel and brimming with reasons to pick up a few for all manner of red meat dishes—grilled, roasted or in stews. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Borsao ‘Tres Picos’ Garnacha 2012
DO Campo de Borja $19.95 (273748) 15.0% alcohol
A perennial favourite that always deserves consideration—this 2012 vintage completes a streak of earning 4½ stars every year since first reviewed in 2009. Fig, prune, savory herbs and dark berry fruit aromas are harbingers of rich, luscious, mouth-filling waves of bramble berry and black currant supported by good acidity, fine-grained tannin, good balance and a boatload of style and panache. It’s good weight and nicely textured, the price-quality ratio skews well in your favour. What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Lealtanza ‘Reserva’ 2009
DOCa Rioja $20.95 (208223) 14.0% alcohol
Savoury herbs, and red cherry aromas set the table for a feast of creamy-smooth, well-textured seam of sweet, ripe mulberry and bramble berry melding in harmony with racy red currant and sour cherry. It’s balanced on a pin with good acidity, supple tannin and promise of even better things to come with a couple of more years in the bottle. Can’t wait? Aerate/decant two hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages Essentials

****1/2 drink or cellar
Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

Napa Valley $29.95 (232371) 14.6% alcohol

Rich aromas of black currant and espresso roast mingle with earthy notes on the nose of this wondrously structured, complex gem. A gusher of luscious ripe mulberry and black berry interwoven with mixed spice and dark chocolate floods the palate. It’s full bodied and fully textured with a long finish that’s dry, mouth watering and delicious. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Catena Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

Mendoza $19.95 (985002) 13.5% alcohol
A subdued nose of spice, dark berry fruit and notions of espresso roast set the stage for a racy wash of spice-infused red fruit—sour cherry, pomegranate and red currant. It’s medium bodied, nicely textured and sports a savory, dry finish and aftertaste robed in roasted herbs. This is best poured with lasagna or prawn and chorizo paella. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Francis Coppola ‘Diamond Collection Ivory Label’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

California $24.95 (521021) 13.5% alcohol 

Wood smoke and toasty oak mingle with ripe dark fruit—mulberry, bramble berry and juicy cherry on the nose of this meaty, delectable California Cab. It’s full bodied and fully flavoured flaunting rich, concentrated and luscious flavours of spice-laden black Bing cherry and briary berry garnished with dark chocolate and cassis. The finish lingers with gorgeous replays, lip-smacking tang and a supple tannin base. (Vic Harradine) 

**** drink now
Beronia ‘Reserva’ 2009

DOCa Rioja $18.95 (050203) 14.0% alcohol
This Tempranillo/Graciano/Mazuelo blend spent 18 months in French and American oak barrels then 20 months in bottle before release. Black plum, red cherry, leather and spice on the nose, it dishes up a lively wash of baking spice, red and black cherry and briary berry on the palate. It’s medium weight with satin smooth texture and a long, racy, lip-smacking finish. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Wynns Coonawarra Estate ‘Black Label’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

Coonawarra, South Australia $27.95 (84996) 13.5% alcohol

This is a premium vintage for this iconic red, found in the ‘Excellent’ category of the vaunted Langton’s Classification of Australia’s most sought-after wines. Aromas of dark berry fruit robed in savory herbs and spice herald an elegant, balanced wash of complex flavours with black currant and dark cherry mingling with roasted herbs and hints of bittersweet chocolate. It’s fully textured and full flavoured, balanced and well paced with a lengthy, gorgeous finish. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Majella ‘The Magician’ Cabernet/Shiraz 2012
Coonawarra, South Australia $19.95 (142018) 14.5% alcohol
Exotic spice, tobacco leaf, campfire smoke and black plum aromas on the nose, this streaks across the palate with red and black currant, sour cherry and oodles of tang. It’s medium-plus weight with generous mouth feel and a lengthy, mouth-watering aftertaste of red berry fruit and spice. Serve with red pizza or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
McManis Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
California $19.95 (212126) 13.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of ripe, dark fruit, baking spice, toast and smoke precede a gusher of bramble berry pie, mixed spice and red cherry, mellow and smooth, fruit forward. Mid-full weight and fully textured the lingering aftertaste delivers kirsch liqueur and spice-laden, ripe briary berry. Pour with grilled smoked back ribs mopped in spicy barbecue sauce. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Irony ‘Small Lot Reserve’ Merlot 2011

Napa Valley, California $19.95 (183186) 14.5% alcohol

Dark cherry and black berry fruit aromas mingle with earthy notes and wisps of mint on the nose. This is deftly balanced with structure, purity of fruit and rich, luscious flavour. It’s medium bodied with satin-smooth texture and lots of charm. Stylish flavours of black currant, cassis and ripe mulberry caress the palate, infusing the long, sweet, fruity finish. There’s good value and an evening of pleasure here. (Vic Harradine)

New in the LCBO

***1/2 drink now Oh Canada!
Kacaba Cabernet/Merlot/Syrah 2013
VQA Niagara Escarpment $16.95 (101477) 12.5% alcohol
Charry wood smoke, gamy notes and exotic spice mingle with wisps of cherry cola aromas on the nose of this red blend—52% Cab Franc, 36% Merlot, 12% Syrah. There’s a racy line of cranberry, sour cherry and passion fruit racing across the palate and replaying on the tart finish. It’s light-medium weight and a great choice with meat-lovers pizza or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

**** drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Kacaba Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
VQA Niagara Escarpment $24.95 13.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of roasted herbs, pipe tobacco and dark berry fruit abound. It rolls over the palate with a structured wash of spice-infused bramble berry, dark coffee and cassis. Medium-plus bodied with good texture and deft balance, concentrated flavours replay on the finish with a supple tannin underpinning and great tang. The aftertaste is fruity and lip-smacking good. Aerate/decant for two hours before serving. Order by the case for daily home, office or restaurant delivery from Kacaba.  (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Rockway Vineyards ‘Small Lot Wild Ferment’ Chardonnay 2013
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $22.95 13.0% alcohol
David Stasiuk’s gentle hand with oak aging and fermentation with a natural inoculant has produced an elegant, beautifully balanced wine that offers subtle, well-integrated notes of vanilla, butter and toasted nut mingling with ripe orchard fruit and hints of citrus. Dry, medium bodied, this tantalizing wine shows complexity and verve, with sound fruit flavours, good clean structure and a pleasant touch of buttered brioche on the finish. It was great with a creamy smoked chicken and mushroom risotto. You really need to rethink ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) when you taste this wine. Recently released and available directly from Rockway Vineyards. (Susan Desjardins)

Lailey Vineyard consistently produces wine that over-delivers in value, taste and overall enjoyment. Winemaker, Derek Barnett, dropped by for an annual visit with 12 wines for tasting. Six are reviewed below with the balance next newsletter. Order a mixed case, or cases, for home, restaurant or office delivery online from Lailey Vineyard.

White Wine

****1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
Lailey Vineyard Chardonnay 2012
VQA Niagara River $25.20 13.5% alcohol
Tasted/reviewed 6 months ago, this has developed significantly. It had 16 months in French oak, 30% new and 4 months on its lees—spent yeast—with frequent stirring before bottling, all helping to develop alluring buttery, nutty notes, baked pear and butterscotch aromas. It flows over the palate with lemon tang, green apple and notions of white peach, yellow plum. It’s balanced, mid-plus weight with generous texture and a lingering finish that’s crisp, refreshing and garnished with flecks of toasty oak. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now  Oh Canada!
Lailey Vineyard Gewürztraminer 2013
VQA Niagara River $25.20 10.5% alcohol
This is top-notch, artisan Gewürztraminer with limited production of just 100 cases. There’s a blush of peach-skin hue from free-run juice—no pressing—left on skins for 7 days, fermented with wild yeast. Exotic spice and rose petal aromas herald a tangy river of blood orange and peel marmalade that’s racy, crisp and refreshing. It’s medium weight with good mouth feel and a long finish replaying palate flavours and finishing with a classic Gewürztraminer, tell-tale bite—delicious. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink now Exceptional Value!  Oh Canada!
Lailey Vineyard ‘dry - Late Harvest’ Riesling 2013
VQA Niagara River $25.20 11.5% alcohol
Made infrequently, now responding to public demand, you’ll have to move quickly on this limited-production gem to snag one. An involved nose of red apple, white peach and Mirabelle plum provide segue to a delectable, crisp and tangy river of racy lemon drop candy, apple crumble, and baking spice. It’s medium bodied and creamy smooth on the palate, crisp, clean and refreshing on the long finish and aftertaste. Firm structure and oodles of charm mark this special treat. (Vic Harradine)

Red Wine

**** drink now  Oh Canada!
Lailey Vineyard Cabernet - Merlot 2013
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.20 13.0% alcohol
This is an easy-drinking value-packed red blend—50% Merlot, 33% Cab Franc, 17% Cab Sauvignon that offers up aromas of spice-laden red and dark berry fruit. It bathes the palate, balanced and fruity with red cherry and black currant garnished with excellent acidity and hints of black licorice. It’s mid weight with good texture and a lengthy clean finish. It’s excellent by the glass or paired with a wide variety of grilled and roasted meats. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Lailey Vineyard ‘Impromptu’ 2012
VQA Niagara River $45.20 13.0% alcohol
This stylish red blend—84% Syrah, 11% Malbec, 5% Petit Verdot—showcases aromas of white pepper, piquant spice and field berry fruit. It’s rich in flavour, balanced on a pin and fruit forward—a wash of sweet ripe mulberry, blueberry and sour cherry runs over the palate replaying on the lengthy, dry finish. It’s mid-full weight and satin smooth with rich fruit and a tannin underpinning on the aftertaste. The tannin’s ameliorated with a two-hour aeration/decant. Careful cellaring until 2016 will also pay handsome dividends. (Vic Harradine)

***** drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Lailey Vineyard ‘unfiltered’ Merlot 2012
VQA Niagara River $35.20 13.5% alcohol
The price-quality balance in this stunning Merlot tips well in your favour, it’s complex, structured and absolutely delicious. The involved nose jumps from the glass with aromas of campfire smoke, toast, mixed spice and espresso roast. A luscious elegant flow of black plum and brambleberry pie rolls over the palate interlacing with sweet vanilla—it spent 18 months in French oak barrels with 20% new. It’s medium-full bodied with generous mouth feel and an aftertaste that’s stylish and delectable—another triumph for winemaker extraordinaire, Derek Barnett. (Vic Harradine)

Palatine Hills Estate Winery - receive free shipping anywhere in Ontario to your home, office or restaurant for all orders containing multiples of 12 bottles by phoning the winery @ +1 (905) 646-9617 or online direct from Palatine Hills. Here are the first five of 10 wines from Palatine Hills with the balance reviewed in the next issue of winecurrent.

White Wine

**** drink now  Oh Canada!
Palatine Hills ‘Neufeld Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2012
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $23.00 13.5 % alcohol
Delightful aromas of butterscotch and orchard fruit with wisps of toast introduce a nicely textured, deftly balanced wash of lemon tang interweaving with apple pie and poached pear on the palate. It’s medium weight and brimming with charm throughout. The mouth-watering, lingering finish layers on green apple and yellow plum with notions of toasty oak—good to go now with roast chicken or turkey. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now  Oh Canada!
Palatine Hills ‘Neufeld Vineyard’ Sauvignon Blanc 2013
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $18.00 13.0% alcohol
This blossoms from the glass with floral notes, lemongrass and tropical fruit aromas. A delicious mouthful of sweet, ripe peach, plum and pear interweaves with Meyer lemon and Key lime pie bathing the palate infusing the long mouth-watering finish. It’s medium weight with very good mouth feel, good balance and a ton of charm. Pour by the glass or pair with roast chicken, veal, pork or pan-seared fish. (Vic Harradine)

Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Palatine Hills ‘Neufeld Vineyards’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $25.00 14.0% alcohol
Lovely aromas of cassis and black berries mingling with notes of spice and vanilla tease and tantalize. Dry, full bodied, this is a complex, structured wine awash with plush ripe fruit that is framed by ripe well-defined tannins and fresh acidity. Hints of mineral, dark chocolate, olive tapenade and spice linger on the extended, dry finish. A wine for cellaring, this can be enjoyed now with beef tenderloin with grilled vegetables. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink or cellar  Oh Canada!
Palatine Hills Cabernet-Merlot 2012
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $16.00 13.5%alcohol
Cassis, blackberry and plum to the fore, this wine also offers subtle notes of earth and dried herbs. Dry, medium bodied, framed by perceptible tannins and fresh acidity, the fruit is dense, round and ripe, spice and notes of coffee bean garnishing the savoury, dry finish. Serve with burgers or mixed grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 cellar  Oh Canada!
Palatine Hills ‘Neufeld Vineyards’ Merlot 2012
VQA Niagara Lakeshore $25.00 14.0% alcohol
Inky, dense and dark, this Merlot showcases alluring notes of plum, black cherry, hints of vanilla and licorice and notes of earth and cocoa. Dry, full bodied, it’s firmly structured with somewhat chalky tannins, fine acidity and plush ripe black fruit. Subtle notes of toast, herbs and dark chocolate add complexity and power through the finish. A young, brooding wine of substance and great impact. Hold for a year or two, or serve decanted with rare prime rib. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Private Order

Order any or all of the following wine by the case for home, restaurant or office delivery (in Ontario) from Nokhrin Wines or email, This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; if in the GTA phone (416) 704-8617

**** drink now
LePlan ‘Classic’ Côtes du Rhône 2012
AOP Côtes du Rhône, France $16.25 13.0% alcohol
This 60/40 Grenache/Syrah blend dishes up aromas of pipe tobacco, espresso roast and red and black berry fruit. It coats the palate with a gusher of ripe sweet briary berry, mixed spice and notions of dried currants. It’s mid weight with creamy smooth texture and a boatload of charm, balanced and beautiful. It finishes fruit forward, lip-smacking good. Great value and a great food wine. (Vic Harradine)

*** drink now
LePlan ‘Grand Cepage Rouge’ Cabernet 2013
Product of France $12.90 13.0% alcohol
Dark toast and wood smoke aromas introduce sour cherry and cranberry robed in tannin, streaking across the palate, infusing the dry, tangy finish. It’s light-medium weight with an aftertaste framed in tangy acidity and underpinned by still-evolving tannin that can be ameliorated by a two-hour aeration decant and pouring alongside salami-laden, tomato sauce pizza. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink now
Quinta de Curvos ‘Superior’ Vinho Verde 2013
DOC Vinho Verde, Portugal $11.95 12.0% alcohol
This blend of indigenous grapes—Loureiro, Arinto and Trajadura—delivers floral notes, citrus and flecks of mineral/slate. It races across the palate, crisp, clean and refreshing with tangy lemon drop candy and lime cordial. It’s an easy-drinking Vinho Verde, the kind you find in local outdoor cafes in Portugal poured by the litre with all manner of seafood. Ten million Portuguese can’t be wrong. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Quinta de Curvos ‘Colheita Selecionada’ Vinho Verde 2013
DOC Vinho Verde, Portugal $13.95 12.0% alcohol
Orange blossom aromas mingle with lemon-lime on the nose heralding a creamy smooth river of Meyer lime and lime zest bolstered by grilled pineapple. It’s mid weight, mouth watering, well balanced and charming and it provides a monumentally long aftertaste of lemon-lime yoghurt and white grapefruit. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Quinta de Curvos Loureiro Vinho Verde 2013
DOC Vinho Verde, Portugal $13.95 12.0% alcohol
This medal-winning 100% Loureiro—an autocthonous grape—springs from the glass with heady aromas of mixed citrus peel, red licorice and notions of rosewater. Luscious waves of white peach, lemon zest and Key lime pie bathe the palate. It’s medium bodied with generous mouth feel and long racy aftertaste. Pour with prawn ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

*** cellar
Cantine Colle di San Domenico Irpinia Aglianico Campi Taurasini 2011
DOC Irpinia Aglianico Campi Taurasini, Italy $24.95 13.5% alcohol
Piquant spice and heady aromas of red berry fruit open this racy, tang-laden red. It’s dense, concentrate and tang-laden on the palate with sour cherry and red currant to the fore. It’s medium bodied with good mouth feel and a fruity, racy finish still robed in evolving tannin. Pop corks 2016 to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan