Winecurrent
March 26, 2014 Newsletter

The California Wine Fair dates are always worth recording—it visits nine centres across Canada from coast to coast. Highly regarded as ‘the’ wine show of the year one does not miss; it’s often sold out. Purchase tickets now @ www.calwine.ca and have questions answered via the California Wine Fair Hotline (905) 336-8932 or 1-800-558-CORK (2675).

Sample taste from over 400 wines from more than 130 top California wineries for just the admission price!

There are NO tickets sold at the door!

The 34th annual California Wine Fair moves across Canada on the following dates:

  • Tuesday, April 1st: Quebec City, Espace Dalhousie 
  • Wednesday, April 2nd: Montreal, Quebec, Le Centre Sheraton 
  • Friday, April 4th: Ottawa, Ontario, Westin Ottawa 
  • Monday, April 7th: Toronto, Ontario, The Fairmont Royal York 
  • Tuesday, April 22nd: Vancouver, British Columbia, Vancouver Convention Centre 
  • Wednesday, April 23rd: Calgary, Alberta, Hotel Arts 
  • Thursday, April 24th: Edmonton, Alberta, Shaw Conference Centre 
  • Wednesday, May 7th: Moncton, New Brunswick, Casino New Brunswick 
  • Thursday, May 8th: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Pier 21  

Highlights in the following newsletter include:


Susan Desjardins – tasted, spat and wrote the majority of reviews for this release. Vic’s back for the next Vintages Release tasting.

  • Exceptional value wines Exceptional Value! – six of the 34 wines sipped, spat and reviewed meet the strict, quality-price guidelines and they’re easily identified throughout and following the Vintages Release by the above icon. What are the quality-price guidelines? Go to www.winecurrent.com, click on ‘Rating System’. 
  • 5-star wines – none in this publication managed to ring the 5-star bell. 
  • Susan Selects – Gray Monk Pinot Noir 2011, 4½ stars @ $19.95 under BC: Red Wine; Dievole ‘La Vendemmia’ Chianti Classico 2010, 4 stars @ $19.95 under Italy: Red Wine 
  • Vic Picks – Dalva Colheita Port 1997, 4½ stars @ $30.95 under Fortified Wine: Port; Fracastel ‘Lua Nova Em Vinhas Velhas’ 2010, 4 stars @ $14.95 under Portugal: Red Wine 

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can tighten your search criteria by using the drop-down box to see only particular areas. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting earlier. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours, always best to phone first.

March 29, 2014 Vintages Release

Fortified Wine: Port 

****1/2drink now
Dalva Colheita Port 1997 

DOC Douro $30.95 (169045) 20.0% alcohol 

This single-vintage, Tawny-styled gem is exquisite from the alluring nose to the stunningly delicious aftertaste. Spice cake, nutty notes and caramel aromas introduce this versatile beauty—pour with crème brulée, crème caramel, stinky cheese like Brie de Meaux, Époisses de Bourgogne or foie gras, liver pâté. It bathes the palate with sweet nuances of caramel, desiccated tropical fruit and Christmas cake spices. The aftertaste is gorgeous, lasting for minutes. The price-quality ratio skews well in your favour. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

****drink or cellar
Coyote’s Run ‘Red Paw Vineyard’ Chardonnay 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $21.95 (336115) 13.7 % alcohol
There’s a pithy, citrus note on the nose, mingling with sweet orchard fruit, vanilla and fine spice. On the dry, medium-bodied palate there’s lovely balance and integration of the Hungarian oak. The creamy texture is paired with a defined seam of acidity, lifting the whiff of pineapple and the warm flavours of pear tart and sautéed apple through the extended finish. A fine match for white meats or ham. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2drink now
Featherstone Four Feathers 2011
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (341586) 12.0% alcohol
Principally Riesling, blended with Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer, this straw-hued wine is all about sweet, ripe orchard fruit and zesty lemon-lime. Mid weight, well framed, it finishes clean and fruity, showcasing a touch of residual sugar. Enjoy with fish and lightly spiced dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

****drink or cellar
Featherstone ‘Red Tail’ Merlot 2011
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 (131540) 12.5% alcohol
Like the high-flying raptor that’s an integral part of Featherstone’s sustainable agriculture, this wine delivers high-toned aromas of cherry/berry, spice and vanilla. Dry, medium bodied, it’s round, fruity and fresh, well framed with ripe tannin and fresh acidity. Attractive, spicy, peppery notes enhance the tangy, fruity finish. Finely crafted and quite delicious. (Susan Desjardins)

***drink now
Frogpond Farm ‘Organic’ Chambourcin 2010
VQA Ontario $14.00 (367078) 12.4% alcohol
From Ontario’s original certified organic winery, this dry, light-medium bodied red has focused aromas and flavours of sour cherry, red currant and fresh cranberry. Light tannins and vibrant acidity frame the fruit, the tart tangy flavours persisting on the finish. A food wine to pair with grilled veggies or a Margarita pizza. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2drink or cellar
Tawse Gamay Noir 2012
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (322545) 13.0% alcohol
This single-vineyard offering dishes up an alluring nose of sandalwood and roasted herbs announcing a tangy line of sour cherry and red currant fleshing out to riper berry fruit on the mid palate and finish. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a chalky, drying aftertaste wreathed in still-resolving, tannin. Aerate/decant three hours pouring with a mixed deli platter. (Vic Harradine)

British Columbia: Red Wine 

****1/2drink or cellar
Gray Monk Pinot Noir 2011 
VQA Okanagan Valley $19.95 (251835) 11.5% alcohol 
Semi-transparent, this refined Pinot offers an excellent juxtaposition of light texture and flavour intensity. On the nose, there’s a hint of smoke, incense, floral notes, red cherry and berry. Dry, medium bodied, there’s a wash of clean, lively fruit across the palate—sour cherry and currant to the fore—accented by elusive notes of earth, vanilla and toasted nut. Great complexity, pace and elegance. Enjoy with duck confit or salmon. (Susan Desjardins)

California: Red Wine 

****drink now
Conundrum Red 2011
California $24.95 (294298) 14.5% alcohol 
There’s lovely ripe, juicy fruit and sweet spice on the nose of this dry, medium-full-bodied wine. The tasty dark fruit is prominent with hints of chocolate, vanilla and spice adding interest. Round, subtly structured, it’s a definite crowd-pleaser that offers an appealingly fruity finish. (Susan Desjardins) 

****drink or cellar
Renwood ‘Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2010
Dry Creek Valley $19.95 (425504) 14.5% alcohol
The rich aromas rush from the glass—dark chocolate coated cherries, black fruit, sweet cinnamon toast. Dry, full bodied, the fruit flavours are intensely concentrated, the chocolate and toast replaying, while a subtle structure offers balance and length to the fruit-filled finish. Enjoy with ribs. (Susan Desjardins)

Oregon: Red Wine 

****1/2drink or cellar
Duck Pond Pinot Noir 2010 
Willamette Valley $25.95 (427872) 12.0% alcohol 
Semi-transparent yet complex and intense, this wine entices with aromas of cherry, berry, spice, milk chocolate overlaid on subtle floral and mineral notes. Dry, medium bodied, the texture is silky and lively, the red fruit paired with vanilla and light toast through the extended finish. Stylish and well balanced. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: Red Wine 

****drink or cellar
Alberto Furque Malbec 2012 
Uco Valley $15.95 (366112) 14.7% alcohol 
The deliciously appetizing ripe fruit aromas, accented by spice and smoke, are an introduction to a firmly structured, dry, full bodied wine that brings together flavours of tangy red and black fruit, coffee, spice and pepper. The texture is remarkably fresh and the tannin underpins a long, dry finish. Serve with grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins) 


****1/2drink or cellarExceptional Value!
Las Moras ‘Black Label’ Cabernet/Cabernet 2010
San Juan $15.95 (357921) 14.0% alcohol
Inky, opaque, this dry, full-bodied blend of the Cabernets offers excellent cellaring potential. Lifted floral aromas, notes of forest floor, black fruit, vanilla and spice offer an alluring bouquet. Chalky tannins make their presence felt and firmly underpin the dark fruit. The dry, enduring finish showcases lingers hints of grilled herbs, smoke and toast. Decant and serve with roast meats and tuck away a few bottles. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: White Wine 

****drink now
Casa Silva ‘Cuvée Colchagua Reserva’ Sauvignon Blanc 2013 
Colchagua Valley $14.95 (24216) 12.5% alcohol 
Produced from centenary vines, this pale straw wine offers delightful, classic aromas and flavours of citrus, gooseberry, herbs and fresh asparagus. Dry, light-medium bodied, there’s well-defined acidity to balance the fruit through a tart and tangy finish. Enjoy with pan-fried sea bass with an herb and white wine sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine 

****drink or cellar
The Black Chook Shiraz/Viognier 2012
McLaren Vale $17.95 (66738) 14.5% alcohol
Opaque purple, with a touch of Viognier adding a floral accent, this Shiraz showcases eucalyptus, black pepper, black and red berry and sweet spice aromas. Dry and full bodied, black berries mingle with tangy raspberry, vanilla, toast and dried herbs adding interest and complexity, while the defined yet subtle structure assures balance. The finish is long, fruity and peppery. Serve with grilled leg of lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2drink or cellarExceptional Value!
Wakefield Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Clare Valley $17.95 (744235) 14.0% alcohol
Don’t hesitate to pick up a few bottles of this. There’s attractive complexity on the nose—mint, black fruit, sweet spice and vanilla contrasting with tapenade and char. Dry, full bodied, refined tannins and fresh acidity are matched to ripe black fruit, while notions of grilled herbs, dark chocolate, spice and olive tantalize. Offering a long, savoury finish, this is a wine that will pair well with grilled or roast meats. (Susan Desjardins)

****drink now
Yalumba ‘The Strapper’ Shiraz 2011 

Barossa, South Australia $19.95 (295873) 14.0% alcohol 

Yalumba sports two wines in the vaunted Langton’s Classification that identifies Australia’s most sought-after wines. This opens with roasted herb, briary berry and peppery spice aromas prior to bathing the palate with a structured, balanced wash of tangy black berry, ripe, juicy mulberry and spice cake. The lengthy finish layers on good moderating acidity and a truckload of lip-smacking charm. Pour with grilled rack of lamb and root veggies. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Rosé Wine

***1/2drink now
Kim Crawford ‘Pansy!’ Rosé 2013
Hawkes Bay $17.95 (650325) 13.0% alcohol
Deep rose pink, this is a straightforward dry rosé featuring a rush of red berry fruit aromas, a soft yet fresh texture and loads of sweet ripe strawberry flavours. It’s approachable, fruity and easy drinking. (Susan Desjardins)

South Africa: Red Wine

***1/2drink now
The ‘Bean’ Coffee Pinotage 2012
WO Western Cape $14.95 (251165) 13.5% alcohol
Aged to bring out barrel flavours of coffee and chocolate, rather than vanilla, this wine has an aromatic profile that features smoky toast, dark berry, spice and, yes, coffee. Dry, medium-full bodied, its lively texture and ripe tannin are paired with red and black fruit, spice, cocoa and espresso notes. The finish is long, fruity and smoky. A unique style, pair it with grilled venison or ostrich. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2drink or cellarExceptional Value!
KWV Cathedral Cellar Shiraz 2009 

WO Western Cape $15.95 (561142) 14.5% alcohol 

The winemaking and viticulture team at KWV, under Chief Winemaker Richard Rowe, are on an extended roll—‘clean, stylish and refreshing’ is a big part of their mantra and this certainly measures up. Alluring aromas of dark berry fruit and spice abound in this mid-weight, complex and well-integrated red. Rich, stylish flavours of tangy black currant and ripe mulberry mingle with peppery spice and a wisp of espresso roast. It finishes balanced, smooth and just plain mouth-watering delicious. Pick up a few for summer/fall barbeques. (Vic Harradine)

France: White Wine

****drink or cellar
Joseph Cattin ‘Hatschbourg’ Pinot Gris 2011
AOC Alsace Grand Cru $20.95 (260240) 13.0% alcohol
Wonderfully expressive, this Pinot Gris offers a spicy note drifting over aromas of ripe fruit—nectarine, pear and melon. Off dry, medium bodied, it’s quite lush in texture, deliciously fruity and silky smooth. The extended finish offers a touch of spicy warmth. Serve with soft cheese or spicy citrus chicken. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

****1/2drink or cellarExceptional Value!
Château Argadens 2009
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur $17.95 (681643) 14.0% alcohol
Opaque ruby, this blend of Merlot and the Cabernets appeals with its complex aromas—earthy, mushroomy notes underlying black fruit, herbs and smoke. Dry, medium-full bodied, the wine offers a clean texture, ripe tannins and tasty black berry, cherry and plum flavours, an earthy note persisting. The balance is finely wrought, the finish long and toasty. This is great for drinking and/or the cellar. (Susan Desjardins)

****drink or cellar
Château Fleur de Jean Gué 2010
AOC Lalande-de-Pomerol $24.95 (729137) 13.5% alcohol
This is another concentrated, opaque red offering attractive aromas of ripe cherry and black berry, vanilla, sweet spice, along with subtle hints of undergrowth and toast. Dry, medium-full bodied, the concentrated dark fruit is accented by a touch of pepper, the sweet spice and fine toasty notes replaying. Firm tannins and a lively fresh texture deliver a long, dry finish. Displaying nice balance and intensity, this is a wine to pair with grilled beef tenderloin. (Susan Desjardins

****1/2drink or cellar
Domaine Montirius ‘Terre des Ainés’ Gigondas 2007
AOC Gigondas $24.95 (116079) 15.0% alcohol
Montirius is a certified bio-dynamic property that eschews the use of oak while fermenting and aging its wine in concrete tanks. The resulting purity of fruit is quite dramatic, manifesting first in the clean aromas of red and black berries that mingle with floral notes, spice, herbs and a hint of licorice. Dry, full bodied, the lively clean berry fruit replays, along with notions of spiced plum. The wine has great elegance, complexity and persistence on the warm finish. A wine to savour with fine meat dishes or to cellar long term. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

****drink or cellar
Dievole ‘La Vendemmia’ Chianti Classico 2010
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (283101) 14.0% alcohol
If you’re looking for good value and balance, this opaque, ruby wine’s for you. To start, there’s complexity in the aromas—mint, black fruit, sweet spice and vanilla dancing with tapenade, white pepper and a whiff of char. Dry and full bodied with tannin present, the fresh acidity lifts the black fruit flavours complementing notions of grilled herbs, spice, espresso and olive in an enticing package. The finish is long, dry and savoury. Well crafted, this wine is meant for cellaring and pairing with strongly flavoured meat dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

Portugal: White Wine

****drink now
Contraste White 2012
DOC Douro $18.95 (366773) 13.0% alcohol
Produced from a blend of indigenous grapes, this yellow-green wine displays aromas of tropical and stone fruits and some attractive smoky, herbal notes. Dry, medium bodied, it’s lip-smacking fresh, tangy and lively, focused flavours of citrus, lime zest and green apple offering segue to a lasting pithy finish. Match with seafood or white fish. (Susan Desjardins)

Portugal: Red Wine

****1/2drink or cellarExceptional Value!
Quinta dos Carvalhais Colheita 2010
DOC Dão $17.95 (13474) 13.5% alcohol
Aged in French and American oak, this award-winning deep-ruby red showcases alluring aromas of berries, dried fruit and baking spice. Dry, full bodied, it’s firmly structured with chalky tannin and clean acidity. Lively flavours of red berry, cherry and blackberry bathe the palate, notions of ripe fig and spice persisting on the long dry finish. This can be cellared or enjoyed now after a two-hour aeration/decant with robust meat dishes – pick up a few. (Susan Desjardins)

****drink or cellar
Fracastel ‘Lua Nova Em Vinhas Velhas’ 2010 

DOC Douro $14.95 (266882) 13.5% alcohol 

Opening with a quiet nose of spiced, mixed field-berry-fruit aromas, this rich and concentrated, foot-trodden, unoaked, old-vines, red blend washes over the palate and through the lengthy, lip-smacking finish with deft balance, some complexity and black currant interlaced with dark, juicy cherry. The aftertaste is wreathed in excellent moderating acidity and a solid tannin underpinning. Drink 2014 to 2018. (Vic Harradine)

Spain: Red Wine

****drink now
Barahonda ‘sin Madera’ Monastrell 2011
DO Yecla $15.95 (366823) 15.0% alcohol
A brilliant ruby violet, this unoaked gem is bursting with aromas of ripe sweet berries and cherries, mingling with hints of pepper and mineral. Dry, medium bodied, it has a nice dry texture, tasty, concentrated fruit flavours and a long, warm, dry finish. Straightforward, fruity and balanced, it’s great value and will please any crowd. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Vintages Essentials- always available in select stores

  • Reduce price shown by $2.00 now until March 30, 2014

Liqueur

****drink or cellar
Luxardo Maraschino Excelsior NV
Veneto, Italy $25.95 (57448) 32.0% alcohol
Based on the orginal Luxardo family recipe created in 1821, this viscous liqueur has been distilled from sour cherries. Subtle notes of warm red fruit, herbs, and a touch of red licorice rise from the glass. On the palate, it’s luscious, warm and sweet, with a fruity note reminiscent of its namesake maraschino, but also of spun sugar. The finish is long, sumptuous, deliciously sweet and subtly savory. Pick this up it as an after-dinner digestif for Easter or, as suggested on the label, drizzle it over a fresh fruit salad. (Susan Desjardins)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

***1/2drink now
Tiger Horse Chenin Blanc-Pinot Grigio 2013
Western Cape, South Africa $11.95 (354605) 13.5% alcohol
Pale gold, this blend has good weight and a fresh texture. Floral notes drift from the glass complemented by stone fruit, subtle tropical notes and touch of sweet spice. Dry, medium bodied, the flavours include kiwi, lime, orange blossom and pear. A touch of pithiness and fresh acidity frame the fruit and linger through the finish. Enjoy well chilled with chicken Caesar salad. (Susan Desjardins)

****drink nowExceptional Value!
Tiger Horse Shiraz-Mourvèdre 2013
Western Cape, South Africa $11.95 (354613) 14.5% alcohol
Semi-opaque, the aromas are appealing and fruity—ripe berries, plum and cinnamon toast to the fore. Dry and on the light side of medium bodied, this wine delivers on the promise, offering a core of tasty ripe fruit, a replay of spice, hints of toast and dark chocolate. The structure hits just the right balance, offering a refreshing, dry, fruity finish. A crowd pleaser to be enjoyed with burgers or pizza. (Susan Desjardins)

****drink or cellar
Castello di Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva 2010
DOCG Chianti Rufina, Italy $21.95 (107276) 13.5% alcohol
Deep ruby, this classic has great intensity and depth. The enticing nose hints at vanilla, sweet baking spice, sun-ripened berry and earth. Dry, medium-full bodied, exhibiting a firm structure, the perceptible tannin frames ripe red and black berry fruit, while notes of chocolate, espresso, spice and dried herbs whisper across the palate and linger on the extended dry finish. A great choice for any meat-based pasta dish. (Susan Desjardins)

****drink or cellar
Michel Lynch Merlot 2011
AOC Bordeaux, France $16.95 (361550) 13.0% alcohol
This is opaque ruby offering aromas of plum, black cherry, cedar, hints of vanilla and mint. Dry, medium-full bodied, it has great presence and vibrancy with perceptible tannin underpinning ripe, quite plush dark fruit. The subtle notes of pepper, spice and roasted red pepper add interest and complexity. The finish is dry and fresh, the rich flavours of fruit and toast lingering. Enjoy with roast beef and pan-roasted vegetables. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Ontario Wineries

****1/2drink now
Peninsula Ridge ‘Wismer Vineyards’ Sauvignon Blanc 2013
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $20.15 13% alcohol
Pale straw, this wine offers lovely delicate floral and fruit aromas, hints of passion fruit, peach, melon and citrus. Crisp, bone dry and medium bodied, the clean spine of vibrant acidity is deftly matched to delicious ripe fruit flavours—pear, kiwi, lime zest, pink grapefruit—with a subtle hint of gooseberry and mineral mingling with a pithy note on the extended finish. An absolutely beautiful, well-paced wine. Order by the case for home, office or restaurant delivery from Peninsula Ridge. (Susan Desjardins)

Cheers, Vic and Susan