Winecurrent

February 11, 2014 Newsletter

The California Wine Fair dates are always worth recording—it visits nine centres across Canada from coast to coast. Highly regarded as ‘the’ wine show of the year one does not miss; it’s often sold out. Purchase tickets now @ www.calwine.ca and have questions answered via the California Wine Fair Hotline (905) 336-8932 or 1-800-558-CORK (2675).


There are NO tickets sold at the door! 


The 34th annual California Wine Fair moves across Canada on the following dates:

  • Tuesday, April 1st: Quebec City, Espace Dalhousie
  • Wednesday, April 2nd: Montreal, Quebec, Le Centre Sheraton
  • Friday, April 4th: Ottawa, Ontario, Westin Ottawa
  • Monday, April 7th: Toronto, Ontario, The Fairmont Royal York
  • Tuesday, April 22nd: Vancouver, British Columbia, Vancouver Convention Centre
  • Wednesday, April 23rd: Calgary, Alberta, Hotel Arts
  • Thursday, April 24th: Edmonton, Alberta, Shaw Conference Centre
  • Wednesday, May 7th: Moncton, New Brunswick, Casino New Brunswick
  • Thursday, May 8th: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Pier 21

Highlights in the following newsletter include: 


Susan Desjardins - wrote all the reviews for this release while Vic continued to bask in the sun in warmer climes.

  • Exceptional value wines Exceptional Value! – five of the 26 wines sipped, spat and reviewed meet the strict, quality-price guidelines—one sparkling, one white and three reds—from $13.95 - $17.95 all identified by the above icon. What are the quality-price guidelines? Go to www.winecurrent.com, click on ‘Rating System’.
  • 5-star wines – non in this publication managed to ring the 5-star bell.
  • Finding Waldo – This red is often referred to as ‘poor man’s Amarone’ or ‘baby Amarone’ due to the process. Most grapes in the region are harvested and immediately made into basic wine, usually quite good value, while grapes for Amarone, and Recioto—a sweet wine—are dried approximately four months before pressing and lengthy, skin-contact fermentation. The wine you’re looking for was fashioned by taking the basic wine and passing it over the Amarone and Recioto skins causing a second fermentation adding structure body and flavours to the original, basic wine. This ‘passing over’ or ‘re-passed’ method gives the wine its name. It has some characteristics of Amarone at less than one-half the price; it’s often an ‘exceptional value’ wine—good hunting.

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews. You can tighten your search criteria by using the drop-down box. You can also see the number of bottles available in each store. For Vintages Release wines, the stock should be showing on the site by the Friday before a Saturday release with some stores posting earlier. For LCBO Portfolio wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours, always best to phone first.

Vintages Release: February 15, 2014

Icewine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Konzelmann Vidal Icewine 2010
VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.10 (167866) 10.0% alcohol (200ml)
Deep honey gold, the aromas of this sumptuous award-winning ice wine bring to mind wildflower honey, ripe stone fruit dripping with sweet juice, citrus notes, orchard fruit, marmalade and spun brown sugar. Rich, luscious, viscous, satiny in texture, this dessert treat achieves balance with a subtle underpinning of fresh acidity while notes of dried apricot and peach pie caress the palate. If the Québec version of fudge, sucre à la crème, could be liquefied, it might come close to this texture and sweetness. The long-lasting, satisfying finish makes this a wine to savour. (Susan Desjardins)

Sparkling Wine

****1/2 drink now
Domaine Louis Bouillot ‘Perle d’Aurore’ Brut Rosé

AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $19.95 (048793) 12.0% alcohol

Pale-salmon hued, this is absolutely delightful—a medium-bodied sparkler that’s fruity and dry. From subtle aromas of summer berries, spice and brioche through to the delicate creamy mousse that refreshes the palate, it offers light, red berry flavours and a lengthy mouth-watering finish. Great value, enjoy it wiling away an afternoon or with smoked salmon. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Tenuta S. Anna ‘Extra Dry’ Prosecco Non-Vintage

DOC Prosecco $17.95 (169128) 11.5% alcohol

Offering a fine frothy persistent mousse, this is a lovely crisp Prosecco that delivers an outstanding balance of crisp, fresh, fruit flavours—apple, pear and lemon-lime to the fore—and a bright invigorating texture. The finish is clean, long lasting and refreshing. Match this classic to another—prosciutto and melon. Pick up a few bottles to enjoy with friends. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Southbrook Vineyards ‘Triomphe’ Chardonnay 2012
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $22.95 (172338) 12.5% alcohol
Enjoy the aromas of cinnamon toast, vanilla, tropical fruit, ripe pear and apple in this finely crafted dry, medium-bodied organic and biodynamic wine. It’s delightfully round, creamy and fresh with pear and tropical fruit replaying on the palate mingling with vanilla and toasted nut. The fresh, subtle acidity brings balance and refinement to a rich fruity finish. Enjoy with lemony roast chicken. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Riesling 2012 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (89029) 10.0% alcohol 

Light-medium bodied and almost transparent, this is fine value bursting with aromas of nectarine, Japanese pear and lemon/lime. The sensation is one of subtly-wrought balance, the flavours suggesting the sweetness of lemon curd, along with lime, crisp apple and a touch of mineral. The finish is crisp, juicy and absolutely delicious. A great complement to turkey dinner. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château des Charmes ‘Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2010
VQA St. David’s Bench $35.00 (332858) 13.0% alcohol
Produced only in select years, this big, structured Pinot Noir displays intense aromas and flavours of cherry and blackcurrant matched to an underlying earthiness, vanilla and a whiff of smoke. The tannin makes its presence felt followed by a rush of ripe fruit mingling with notes of spicy toast and dried herbs persisting on the mouth-watering, lengthy finish—it’s both elegant and powerful. Decant before serving with beef tenderloin. (Susan Desjardins)

Okanagan Valley, BC: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Mission Hill ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2011 

VQA Okanagan Valley $24.95 (545012) 13.0% alcohol 

Aged nine months in French oak, this ruby-hued gem is well crafted and balanced, enticing with lovely aromas of ripe red fruits and overtones of exotic spice, dried herbs and earth. Dry, mid weight, it’s smooth and silky, framed by fine-grained tannin and fresh acidity, notes of white pepper and sweet spice garnishing cherry/berry flavours. An earthy nuance lingers on the clean dry finish. It’s a match for grilled salmon. (Susan Desjardins)

California: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Artezin Zinfandel 2011
Mendocino County $21.95 (04887) 14.5% alcohol
Produced from old vines using sustainable vineyard practices, this Zin offers opulent aromas and flavours of black and red berry fruit. There a hint of milk chocolate, spice and vanilla on the nose. Fruit forward, dry and full bodied, it’s quite spicy and peppery, a subtle, sustaining structure offering nice balance. The warm, peppery finish is just right for a cold-weather stew or juicy, pork back ribs. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Benzinger Family Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Sonoma County $29.95 (597237) 14.5% alcohol
This is a deftly crafted, balanced full-bodied Cab offering complexity on the nose and palate—cassis, black cherry, herbs, smoky toast, hints of mocha join to tantalize. Dry, well-structured and tangy on the palate, there’s depth and breadth of flavour. Red and black berry, exotic spice, pepper, earth, hints of chocolate and tapenade all add to the tasting pleasure. Structure and fruit balance the warmth on the long finish—fabulous! Enjoy with prime rib with a mushroom medley sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Fleur de California Pinot Noir 2011
Carneros $19.95 (214775) 13.8% alcohol
Semi-transparent ruby, this lovely Pinot Noir offers alluring aromas of red cherry, sun-ripened strawberry, sweet spice and vanilla. Medium bodied and dry, it’s a very attractive and approachable Pinot with a silky texture. Juicy red fruit, spicy aromas and a touch of earthiness replay on the palate. There’s good, clean underlying acidity and a pleasant warm finish. Enjoy with salmon, pork or mushroom arrosto. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Frey Merlot 2012
North Coast $19.95 (303867) 13.9% alcohol
Produced using organic methods and biodynamic principles, this deep purple beauty has lifted dark berry and plum aromas touched with hints of mint, sweet dried herbs and spiced rose. Dry and full bodied, round and velvety, it’s quite fruit forward, big and bold. It walks a fine balance while showcasing clean, ripe fruit. Serve with rich meat dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: White Wine

**** drink now Exceptional Value!
Colomé Torrontés 2012
Calchaqui Valley $13.95 (357913) 13.5% alcohol
Almost transparent, this is a classic Torrontés, floral notes complemented by spice, exotic fruit and juicy peach. Sweetly fruity, light-mid weight, the palate offers spice, perfumed floral and tropical notes framed by lively acidity that carry the fruit through a lengthy finish. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Zuccardi ‘Q’ Malbec 2011
Mendoza $19.95 (723478) 14.5% alcohol
Inky and opaque, this award winner delivers attractive complexity in aromas and lush flavours, a balance of richness and structure. Lifted aromas of ripe black fruit, exotic spice, campfire smoke, licorice and vanilla abound. Full-bodied and dry, the subtle underlying structure frames black berry and cherry fruit, toasty oak, sweet spice and hints of dark chocolate. It’s warm and deliciously fruity through the lasting, flavourful finish. A great choice on a cold winter’s night—pair with stew or meatballs in a mushroom sauce. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Concha y Toro ‘Winemaker’s Lot 148’ Carmenère 2011
Las Pataguas Vineyard, Rapel Valley $18.95 (30957) 14.5% alcohol
Purple and inky, this is a big wine loaded with aromas of dense, ripe black fruit, wood smoke, pipe tobacco, spice and roasted herbs. It’s dry, full weight, well structured, rich and fruity. Notes of charry toast, grilled herbs and dark chocolate offer depth and breadth on the palate while the the lingering finish is penetrating. Try it with lamb curry or sweet Italian sausages. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

**** drink now
St. Hallett ‘Gamekeeper’s’ Shiraz 2012
Barossa $15.95 (166991) 14.0% alcohol
Opaque, purple, this is a tasty, flavourful and fruity wine with appealing aromas of ripe blackberry, blueberry, plum, vanilla and sweet, toasty oak. Full bodied, dry and fruit forward, that dark fruit is lifted by notes of spice and pepper and underpinned with ripe tannin and fine acidity on the palate. Warm, ripe and peppery on the fruit-filled finish, it’s a great match for barbequed meat—good value, too. (Susan Desjardins)

New Zealand: White Wine

**** drink now
Lawson’s Dry Hills Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Marlborough $17.95 (214460) 12.7% alcohol
This award winner is a classic, showcasing aromas of passion fruit, citrus, mown grass and fine herbs. Dry, silky, almost spritzy in texture, lemon-lime and passion fruit dominate the palate, complemented by subtle hints of fresh herbs. The finish is extended and tangy. Enjoy with the classic match – a goat cheese appetizer with fresh herbs, olive oil and lemon zest. (Susan Desjardins)

New Zealand: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Wairau River ‘Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2010
Marlborough $29.95 (361253) 13.5% alcohol
Semi-transparent ruby, this fine Pinot combines red fruit and floral notes with an earthy quality and a whiff of toasty oak. Dry, medium bodied, showcasing a fine, taut structure, the lovely fresh seam of acidity complements clean, fresh red fruit—currant, strawberry and raspberry. A touch of sweet spice and dried herbs carries through the lengthy finish. Savour with mushroom risotto. (Susan Desjardins)

South Africa: White Wine

**** drink now
Rudera ‘Robusto’ Chenin Blanc 2009
WO Stellenbosch $19.95 (364729) 14.0% alcohol
Offering lifted aromas of citrus, tropical fruit and toasted nut, this wine is just off-dry, medium bodied and bold. Warm, rich and ripe, the quite luscious flavours include stone fruit, crème caramel and lemon curd. While the finish is long and warm, a seam of acidity assures freshness. Try it with seafood and a side of caramelized, roast root vegetables. (Susan Desjardins)

France: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Paul Zinck ‘Portrait’ Gewürztraminer 2011
AOC Alsace $19.95 (367433) 14.0% alcohol
This is a classically delicious, off-dry Alsatian Gewürztraminer, offering rich ripe aromas and flavours of tropical fruit, ripe pear, exotic spice and rose petal. Rich, lush and creamy in texture, bountiful tropical fruit washes across the palate with warmth, spice and a touch of orange zest lingering on the finish. Enjoy with lightly-spiced dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Domaine Gautheron Chablis 2012
AOC Chablis $24.95 (207902) 12.5% alcohol
Pale straw, this dry, round, medium-bodied Chablis has a lovely nose of citrus, green apple and nectarine. Finely balanced, it’s clean, crisp and mouthwateringly fresh. Lively flavours of lemon-lime, green apple and subtle minerality streak across the palate and through the long, refreshing finish. Enjoy with shellfish, pan-fried cod or roast chicken. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Domaine Gérard Charvet ‘La Réserve d’Amélie’ Moulin-à-Vent 2012
AOP Moulin-à-Vent $20.90 (356741) 13.0% alcohol
An award-winner, this is really an outstanding example of a Cru Beaujolais Gamay. The nose entices with wonderful aromas of freshly-picked strawberry, red plum, sweet spice and a wisp of vanilla. Dry, medium bodied, the red fruit flavours are focused, the notes of spice and vanilla replaying. The defined yet refined structure provides lovely balance, the texture is fresh and the finish is dry and flavourful. Enjoy this versatile wine with duck confit, charcuterie, ham or beef bourgignon. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
La Ferme du Mont Vendange Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2011
AOP Châteauneuf-du-Pape $46.95 (309245) 14.5% alcohol
Principally Grenache blended with Syrah and Mourvèdre and produced from organically grown grapes, this offers generous ripe fruit aromas—raspberry, blackberry and cherry—with notes of spice, cigar box and sweet kitchen herbs. It’s dry, full bodied, lively and weighty with engaging bright fruit flavours and notes of well-integrated oak with grilled herbs and spice adding interest and depth. Subtly well-balanced, the ripe tannin and clean line of acidity lift the fruit and balance the warmth on the extended finish. Savour with intensely flavoured meat dishes and consider a bottle or two for the cellar. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Bibbiano Chianti Classico 2010
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (168286) 14.0% alcohol
Semi-transparent garnet, this classic Sangiovese offers complementary aromas of red berry, undergrowth, earth and herbs. Dry and medium bodied with an earthy character shining through, the red berry and herbs replay on the palate balanced by fine tannin and a clean fresh texture. There’s a light touch of warmth on the refined, fresh finish. This is a great food wine to enjoy with meat-based pasta. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Tenuta Sant’Antonio ‘Monti Garbi’ Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore 2010
DOC Ripasso della Valpolicella Superiore $17.95 (29850) 14.0% alcohol
This ruby gem has great depth of flavour, balance and refinement. Aromas and flavours of cherries and berries dominate while mingling with spice and an earthy quality. This is dry and medium-full bodied with a clean and lively texture. There’s good balance to the ripe red fruit along with a touch of spice and white pepper persisting on the long-lasting finish. Enjoy with braised, herbed chicken. (Susan Desjardins)

Spain: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Monasterio de las Viñas Gran Reserva 2005
DO Cariñena $16.95 (82024) 13.0% alcohol
Principally Garnacha, blended with Tempranillo and Cariñena, a.k.a. Carignan, this evolved, balanced wine was aged two years in oak and held three years in bottle prior to release. It’s opaque, with spicy fruit aromas, notes of vanilla and a whiff of leather. There’s great depth of ripe fruit flavour, notions of sweet baking spice and a remarkably fresh texture to this dry, full-bodied red. It retains good structure, flavour and depth of fruit flavour through the long dry finish. Enjoy with paella. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Otazu Premium Cuvée 2007 

DO Navarra $17.95 (313809) 14.5% alcohol 

While this award-winning blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot is last in the release catalogue, it certainly shouldn’t be last on your list of purchases. Dry, mid-full weight, it offers intense aromas and flavours of red and black berry, cedar, sweet spice and subtle mineral notes. The freshness on the palate and the perceptible tannins are a fine match for the concentrated fruit flavours; the texture’s round and smooth, the finish long lasting. Enjoy now and cellar a few bottles. (Susan Desjardins)

Cheers, Vic and Susan