Winecurrent

February 19, 2011 Vintages Release

California Wine Fair! It’s the hottest ticket in town – year after year. 100+ California wineries pouring 300+wines with light hors d’oeuvres, all for one admission price! Many winery principals present. No tickets sold at door. Book yours now; the ‘SOLD OUT’ sign appears annually.

Beginning March 8, 2011 in Edmonton, the fair tours eight Canadian cities – Edmonton (March 8), Calgary (March 9), Vancouver (March 11), Toronto (April 4), Ottawa (April 6), Montreal (April 7), Québec City (April 8) and Halifax (May 12).

To order tickets by mail or on-line visit California Wines in Canada.

All LCBO Stores Closed for Family Day — All LCBO stores will be closed on Monday, February 21 for Family Day.

Highlights in this winecurrent newsletter include:

A New Feature – You’ll notice within each review the product code (numbers in brackets) are now links connecting you directly to the LCBO site allowing you to search for stock that’s currently available in individual retail LCBO stores.
  • Ontario and B.C. shine – you’ll find a number of exceptional wines throughout the newsletter—within and after the Main Release—excellent quality and very good value
  • Outside the box – spread your wings and try at least one—there’s a fruity, well-balanced Alamos Viognier from Mendoza, a Porcupine Ridge Viognier blend from the Western Cape, a soft and silky Malivoire Gamay awash in fruit from the Niagara Escarpment and a silky, delicious Reif Chenin Blanc from Niagara-on-the-Lake
  • Finding Waldo – it’s a Pinot Noir that Susan and Vic both loved 2-glasses! and under $20 – give it a go

This winecurrent newsletter begins with two features from the Vintages Release catalogue on Cabernet Sauvignon and Kosher wine followed by the Main Release.

Cabernet Sauvignon Feature

****1/2 drink or cellar
Hauts de Pontet-Canet 2007
AOC Pauillac $36.00 (100727) 13.0% alcohol
This deep, ruby-red gem displays lovely, complex aromas of earthy underbrush, berry fruit, plum, cedar and spice. It’s dry, medium-full bodied sporting a firm tannin underpinning with lively acidity and layers of vivid, ripe fruit—berries and cassis predominate—with subtle nuances of vanilla and spicy toast. The second wine of the acclaimed Château Pontet-Canet, it’s well crafted and a candidate for long-term cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Dominus Estate ‘Napanook’ 2007
Napa Valley $53.95 (212357) 14.1% alcohol
This is an opaque, inky, red blend of primarily Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot—think structure and depth—from the respected, ubiquitous Christian Mouiex. There are herbal and floral notes with dense, ripe, dark plummy fruit aromas on the nose and the palate doesn’t disappoint—it’s dry and full bodied with a firm structure, vibrant acidity and an incredibly velvety texture. The flavours are complex and concentrated, berries and pit fruit with notes of dark toast, spice, cedar and vanilla. Harmonious in texture and flavour throughout, it has an impressively long aftertaste. It doesn’t get much better than this. Enjoy now or over the next decade. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Arboleda Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Aconcagua Valley $17.95 (606764) 14.0% alcohol
Dense and deep-red in hue, you’ll enjoy a lifted herbal, minty note complemented with rich aromas of blackberry, cassis and vanilla. There’s appropriate acidity and ripe tannin supporting lively berry fruit flavours that replay on the palate. It’s quite generous and soft in texture—an approachable, nicely balanced Cab offering lovely notes of dark toast on a lengthy, dry, flavourful finish. It’s a nice match for rib-eye steak. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Tommasi ‘Poggio al Tufo’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
IGT Toscana $15.95 (203927) 13.0% alcohol
Showing a deep, rich, purple hue in the glass, it displays a lifted nose of rich fruit, soft spice, cedar, and roasted herbs. It’s round, smooth, and appealing with a rush of vibrant, fresh flavour—raspberry, cassis, blackberry—lively acidity and soft, ripe tannin. Notes of dark chocolate and toast linger on the tangy aftertaste. Approachable and easy to drink, this wine offers good value and is poured well with roast meats. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
René Barbier ‘Selección Crianza’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
DO Penedès $19.95 (14639) 13.5% alcohol
This is intense and captivating on the nose displaying aromas of toasty oak and a hint of truffle over sun-ripened plum and dark, berry fruit. Dry and medium-full bodied, it’s smooth on entry offering ripe flavours of berry, plum with earthy notes and hints of pepper. Ripe tannin and fine acidity complement and create a nicely balanced, fruity aftertaste with lingering notes of black pepper and dried fruit. (Susan Desjardins)

Passover/Kosher Feature

***1/2 drink now
Five Stones Sauvignon Blanc 2010
Margaret River, Western Australia $23.95 (218065) 13.0% alcohol
This is Kosher for Passover, and Mevushal. Pale straw, almost clear, the colour portends, and the wine delivers, quite heady aromatics of tropical and stone fruit along with pungent gooseberry and some vegetal notes. Gooseberry and tropical fruit ride a spine of lively citrus acidity on the palate of this medium-bodied, dry and fruity offering. There’s a tart, pithy nip on the finish. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Tabor ‘Galil Series’ Merlot 2009
Lower Galilee $14.95 (183517) 13.9%
This is Kosher for Passover. Fragrant with juicy, ripe, spiced plum and cherry/berry fruit aromas, this dry, medium-bodied red has a nice, soft texture. Fresh acidity and soft tannin support the vivid black cherry and raspberry fruit adorned with gentle notes of spiced toast and chocolate. There’s balance here and a fresh, fruity, peppery, mid-length aftertaste. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Vignobles David ‘le Mourre de l’Isle’ Côtes du Rhône 2009
AOC Côtes du Rhône $15.95 (128124) 14.0% alcohol
This is Kosher for Passover. Violet and semi opaque in the glass, this blend of Syrah and Grenache, produced from organically cultivated fruit, entices with lifted aromas of sweet, ripe, dark fruit, spice, toasty oak and hints of herbs. Medium-full bodied, it delivers a boatload of fruit—black cherry, black berry and raspberry—with an appealing round texture, ripe tannin and clean acidity. Notes of pepper and dark chocolate linger on the dry finish. It’s a flavourful and nicely balanced package at an attractive price. (Susan Desjardins)

The Main Release

Fortified Wine: Port

**** drink or cellar
Delaforce ‘Late Bottled Vintage’ Port 2005
DOC Douro $15.95 (140897) 20.0% alcohol
Densely hued and viscous, this is good value. There are intense aromas of dried fruit, spun brown sugar, toasted nuts and spice. It’s sweet and savoury with concentrated flavours of plum, spice cake, dried cherries and blueberries on the palate with a delightful peppery lift. Full bodied, with reasonable structure and lively acidity, it reaches a crescendo on the finish with warmth, verve and rich, sweet fruitiness. A nice pairing now for strong cheese or a cranberry walnut tart, it’s also a candidate for the cellar. It earned its well-deserved final half-star on value. (Susan Desjardins)

Sparkling Wine

**** drink now
Bailly Lapierre ‘Réserve’ Crémant de Bourgogne
AOC Crémant de Bourgogne $17.95 (991562) 12.0% alcohol
An almost transparent straw colour, this lovely sparkler has delicate aromas of pear, green apple and brioche. It’s quite rich and fruity on the palate—tree fruit in particular with a citrus note—and the mousse is soft and creamy. This is finely balanced, well crafted and quite flavourful. An underlying minerality and fresh fruity acidity persist on the finish. This is good value. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Cordoníu Pinot Noir ‘Rosé Brut Cava’ Non Vintage 

DO Cava, Spain $16.95 (665372) 12.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent July 18, 2009 @ $16.95) Raspberry and strawberry on the nose, these follow through to the palate with an additional hit of spice and red cherry flavours. It’s light on its feet, generously textured and delivers plenty of bubbles—it was made using the same wine-making techniques employed in Champagne. This is delightful served as an aperitif and has the oomph to be poured alongside lightly herbed and spiced appetizers, especially sea food. Good bang for your buck; keep a couple on hand for surprise guests as well as some for yourself. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

**** drink now
Calamus ‘Unoaked’ Chardonnay 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (210062) 12.8% alcohol
This pale gold, clean, bright Chardonnay is appealing with its focused aromas of fresh apple and ripe pear. Fruity and light-medium bodied, the texture’s refreshing, the acidity lively and the fruit flavours vibrant—Granny Smith apple, grapefruit and lime—through the palate and lingering finish. It gets an extra half star for value. Try it with simple roast pork tenderloin or veal scaloppini al limone. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now
Château des Charmes ‘Late Harvest’ Riesling 2007 

VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $21.95 375 mL (432930) 10.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent February 20, 2010 @ $21.95) A Gold Medal winner at the 2009 Ontario Wine Awards, this dessert wine is a fabulous expression of the vintage and the varietal. Luscious aromas of sweet tropical fruit—mangoes with a squirt of lime come to mind—ripe stone fruit and lemon delight pie. The flavours are consistent, with a honeyed texture that is well balanced with bright acidity. Sweet, but not too sweet, it’s harmonious with a beautiful heft. It’s a dream to sip with artisan cheese or a fruit tart. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Fielding Estate Winery ‘Lot No. 17’ Riesling 2009

VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.95 (203521) 9.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent December 11, 2010 @ $26.95) Dazzling in focus and structure, this delivers a laser-like stream of racy acidity matched with ripe succulent fruit flavours—white peach, ripe pineapple and green apple. There’s slate and strong mineral tones on the nose while the yin and yang / sweet and tang on the balanced finish is lip-smacking good. Wonderful now, better in 3 or 4 years. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Lailey Vineyard Wines ‘canadian oak’ Chardonnay 2009 

VQA Niagara River $24.95 (225474) 12.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent October 2, 2010 @ $25.20) This is structured and beautifully balanced showcasing purity of fruit and touches of elegance. Fragrant spice and orchard fruit aromas meld with hints of sweet coconut. The flavours wash in waves with white peach, pear and apple adorned by nuances of sweet oak predominant. It’s mid weight with a silky smooth mouth feel and a crisp, refreshing aftertaste bolstered by ripe pineapple—superb. For now, purchase by the case for daily home or office delivery from Lailey. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
13th Street Winery Gamay Noir 2008 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (177824) 12.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent June 26, 2010 @ $17.95) Wood smoke and gamy aromas roll from the lifted nose of this mid-weight, nicely textured Gamay. There’s a focused stream of tangy racy flavour throughout with a predominance of red berry fruit—red currant, strawberry and ripe cranberry mingling with sweet savoury notes. It’s nicely balanced with a dry, lingering mouth-watering aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now
Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Select Late Harvest’ Cabernet Franc 2008 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 375 mL (210757) 11.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent December 11, 2010 @ $19.95) Wow, this is one perfumed, succulent and refreshing mouthful of spiced red fruit with tangy raspberry, lively strawberry and pie cherry to the fore. The ripe, sweet fruit and moderating raciness is balanced on a pin and persistent throughout, finishing mouth-watering, crisp and refreshing. The price-quality balance tips well in your favour easily serving 4 as a special, after-dinner treat. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar two glasses
Rosehall Run Pinot Noir ‘Cuvée County’ 2008 

VQA Prince Edward County $19.95 12.2% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent June 26, 2010 @ $21.95) Vic and I were thrilled to taste this elegant Pinot produced from the fruit of select vineyards. Perfumed aromas of red fruit are underlaid with earthy, toasty notes and hints of minerality. Aged 11 months in French oak this mid-weight wine is silky and supple with fine acidity and well-integrated soft tannins. Fresh red fruit flavours mingle with warm sweet spice and a dash of white pepper. Ripe fruit and toasty notes linger on the finish. Consider a case, and cellar a few bottles for 3-5 years. Produced in limited quantities. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
No. 99 Wayne Gretzky Estates ‘Estate Series’ Cabernet Merlot 2007

VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (128652) 12.7% alcohol

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent June 12, 2010 @ $19.95) A well-structured red blend—60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc—it bolts from the glass with lifted complex aromas of black cherry, dark berry fruit, leather and toast. Rich fruit-forward flavours abound on the palate and lingering finish with mint-infused cherry, black currant and nuances of kirsch liqueur among them. It’s medium-full bodied, nicely textured and sports a perceptible tannin underpinning; decant for three hours and pour with rare-grilled strip loin. (Vic Harradine)

British Columbia: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate ‘Proprietors’ Grand Reserve’ Shiraz 2006
VQA Okanagan Valley $24.95 (33241) 14.3% alcohol
The inky, opacity presages the intensity, power and flavour. There’s a whiff of mint on the nose along with dense, dark fruit, chocolate and a sweet, toffee-like note. Firm in structure, it’s dry and full bodied. Dense, dark flavours—berry fruit, dark toast, chocolate, black pepper and rich vanilla are complemented by fresh acidity. Peppery warmth and herbal nuances persist on the lengthy finish. Leg of lamb is in order. (Susan Desjardins)

California: Red Wine

**** drink now
Bonterra Syrah 2007
Mendocino County $19.95 (573709) 13.9% alcohol
Produced from organic fruit and inky purple, this Syrah is fruit forward and quite peppery. Aromas and flavours of dark fruit, dark toast and spice predominate. Dry and full bodied, those big, concentrated flavours are balanced with supple tannin and fine acidity. Flavours of ripe, dense, dark fruit, toast and a lingering peppery aftertaste provide a wonderful tasting experience. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: White Wine

**** drink now
Alamos Viognier 2010
Mendoza $13.95 (507830) 13.0% alcohol
Very fragrant—floral, stone fruit, with tropical and spice notes—this is a dry, richly fruity white displaying weight on the palate and a lovely, round, smooth texture. The fruit replays on the palate—mango and peach with a squeeze of lime—matched by good balancing acidity and flowing through to an appealing, warm, spicy finish. Good value, it earned its final half star because of it. (Susan Desjardins)

Argentina: Red Wine

**** drink now
La Chamiza ‘Polo Profesional’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Mendoza $12.95 (219998) 14.0% alcohol
Dense and inky, this deftly crafted wine displays powerful aromas—floral, cedar, herbal and dark fruit. Dry and full bodied, the velvety texture and full-bore, dark, fruit flavours captivate. Yet it’s nicely balanced by ripe underlying tannin and fine acidity. Spice, vanilla and a hint of espresso carry through on the ripe, densely fruity finish. At this price, you can’t go wrong. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: Red Wine

**** drink now
Veramonte Pinot Noir 2008
Casablanca Valley $15.95 (134973) 14.0% alcohol
Delicate floral notes, pure red fruit and spice aromas waft from the glass of this very approachable, delightfully spicy, pale-ruby Pinot. It’s medium bodied and nicely balanced offering vibrant, focused, red-fruit flavours that fly along on a spine of lively acidity. Notes of warm, tangy spice and toast persist on the racy, fresh finish. A delicious find! (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Jim Jim ‘The Down-Underdog’ Shiraz 2008
South Australia $15.95 (682005) 14.5% alcohol
The blackberry jam color of this wine heralds the aromas of jammy black fruit garnished with spice and an elusive vegetal note. Softly textured, dry and medium-full bodied, this is a fruit-forward red with a replay of the rich ripe, fruit, spice and pepper on the palate. Enjoy the warmth and spiciness on the soft finish. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Wakefield Estate Shiraz 2008
Clare Valley $17.95 (943787) 14.5% alcohol
This deeply hued award-winner is heady with fragrant, fruit aromas and sweet spice. It’s full bodied, concentrated and intensely flavoured—pepper, dark fruit and spice to the fore. Well balanced and round, the tannins are supple and the acidity fresh. Dry, rich and fruity on the finish, a trace of espresso and piquant peppery notes linger. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Yalumba ‘The Signature’ Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz 2005
Barossa $51.95 (528356) 14.5% alcohol
Inhale and savour the lifted aromas—rich, dark fruit, floral notes, sweet, toasty oak and spice. This is a potent, intense, medium- full bodied blend with chewy tannin, great depth of fruit, and appropriate acidity to match the flavourful cassis, dark plum, spice and nuanced herbal notes. Overtones of dark chocolate and pepper persist on the lengthy, dry finish. Decant for an hour and serve with prime rib or cellar 5-7 years. (Susan Desjardins)

New Zealand: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2009 

Marlborough $15.95 (686675) and 375 mL $9.95 (199968) 13.0% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent April 17, 2010 @ $14.95) Pale yellow-green, this wine tantalizes with fine aromas of asparagus, citrus and a hint of sweet fruit. Light-medium bodied, it displays mouthwatering acidity on the palate with a flavour combo of sweet stone fruit and zippy citrus notes. The lingering finish replays the fruit and citrus, underlaid with some subtle earthy vegetal notes. (Susan Desjardins)

New Zealand: Red Wine

**** drink now
The Crossings Pinot Noir 2009
Awatere Valley, Marlborough $17.95 (694471) 14.0% alcohol
Bright ruby and semi-transparent, this classic cool-climate pinot proffers definite earthy notes, minerality, bright, red fruit and notes of spice. Vibrant and fresh on the palate, it’s dry, light-medium bodied with a fresh backbone of acidity and a replay of that lively, juicy fruit—raspberry, cherry, currant. Light, spicy toast lingers on the lingering aftertaste. This is a mouth-watering, value-packed beauty. (Susan Desjardins)

South Africa: White Wine

***1/2 drink now
Porcupine Ridge Viognier/Grenache 2009
WO Western Cape $16.95 (203893) 14.5% alcohol
This unique, golden-hued blend offers a lovely floral and fruit bouquet—melon, pear, peach, sweet citrus and spice with floral notes. There’s some heat on the palate, it’s dry and mid weight and the texture’s smooth. The ripe, fruity, spicy flavours are reminiscent of apricot, lemon pie and spiced pear tart and they’re nicely complemented by fresh acidity. It’s well balanced and the warmth carries through on the fruity finish. (Susan Desjardins)

France: White Wine

****1/2 drink now
Domaine Saint-Remy ‘Réserve’ Gewürztraminer 2008
AOC Alsace $18.95 (61150) 13.5% alcohol
Deep golden and brilliantly clear, this is a beautifully crafted wine. There are wonderful, enticing, honeyed aromas galore—lychee, rosewater, melon and guava. It’s luscious, smooth, round and spicy on the palate with rich, fruity flavours finely balanced with refreshing citrusy acidity. Spice and honeyed fruit persist on the long-lasting aftertaste. Heavenly. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château de Puligny-Montrachet ‘Les Poruzots’ Meursault 1er Cru 2007
AOC Meursault 1er Cru $79.95 (21675) 12.5 % alcohol
A brilliant, pale gold, it’s a wine where complexity and subtlety are the theme while aromas of honeycomb, toasted nuts, ripe apple, baked pear, and sweet citrus beguile. Buttery in texture, round and smooth, there’s a beautiful balance of fresh acidity, minerality, ripe tree fruit, citrus and well-integrated light, toasty oak. Creamy, soft, nutty flavours and a hint of pithy rind grace the lengthy finish. A wine to contemplate and delight in. (Susan Desjardins)

France: Red Wine

**** drink now
Château au Vignoble 2006
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur $15.95 (140004) 12.5% alcohol
This is a good value red from Bordeaux. Enjoy the attractive aromas of earth, berry fruit, toast and some light, floral and herbal notes. There’s good structure with ripe tannin and lively acidity framing fresh, focused red raspberry and cherry flavours. It’s medium-full bodied with notes of spice box, herbs and toast adding complexity and persisting on the fruit-filled finish. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Domaine de Gourgazaud Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Vin de Pays d’Oc $11.95 (674085) 13.5% alcohol
A straightforward dry, medium-bodied red with perceptible tannin, soft acidity and loads of dark, spicy fruit, this is a nice mouthful of value. It offers pleasing aromas of berry fruit, spiced vanilla and cedar, a supple texture and some interesting notes of cocoa on the finish. A few bottles won’t go amiss—enjoy with hearty vegetarian or meat-based casseroles. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Fortia ‘Cuvée du Baron’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2007
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape $34.95 (959999) 15.0% alcohol
Subtle and elegant, this is a lovely, ruby-hued blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre with alluring aromas of garrigue, cedar, flowers and red fruit. It’s medium-full weight with a beautiful velvety texture caressing the palate. The vibrant fruit flavours—black cherry, raspberry—are ably supported by fine tannin and lively acidity. There’s a restrained peppery warmth on the extended finish carrying notes of sweet spice and cocoa. An absolutely beautiful, balanced wine that will cellar long term. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Zenato Amarone della Valpolicella ‘Classico’ 2006 

DOC Amarone della Valpolicella $47.95 (413179) 16.5% alcohol 

(Previously reviewed in winecurrent October 2, 2010 @ $47.95) The glass-coating density is a good portent of the potent and luscious nature of this wine. Aromatic complexity and opulence characterize the nose while rich flavours of dark berries, spiced dried fruit and toasty oak abound with sweet notes reminiscent of maple syrup. Lushly textured, the wine has supple tannin and moderating acidity balancing the rich fruit. A wonderfully lengthy finish replays the exotic flavours. Hard to resist—get an extra bottle for the cellar. (Susan Desjardins)

Spain: Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Las Rocas Garnacha 2008
DOC Calatayud $14.95 (95190) 14.1% alcohol
Approachable, fruity and palate friendly, this wine has pleasing aromas and flavours of ripe berries—raspberry and black berry—complemented with earthy, spicy notes. It’s medium bodied, fresh and soft in the mouth. Light toast and spice add a nice lift to the dry, fruity finish. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Palacio Gloriosa ‘Reserva’ 2005
DOC Rioja $19.95 (930164) 13.5% alcohol
Glorious indeed, enjoy intense aromas of red roses, well-ripened fruit and toast. Full bodied with a lovely, velvety texture, ripe tannin and fine acidity, this offers a gentle wave of fresh plum and berry fruit across the palate with notes of toasty oak and cocoa lingering on the extended finish. Elegant and well crafted, this is great value that will cellar for a further 3-5 years. (Susan Desjardins)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: March 5, 2011

****1/2 drink now
Simi Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Alexander Valley, California $21.95 (25221) 13.5% alcohol
This has good impact on the nose and palate opening with aromas of floral and dark fruit mingling with notes of toast and vanilla. Dense in colour and meaty with black fruit to the fore—sun-ripened blackberry and jammy cassis—spice, pepper and cocoa add complexity. Dry, full bodied, with a firm structure, there’s just the right balance of fruit and acidity. The extended finish is fruit filled and tantalizing with lingering notes of pepper and toast. Well matched with filet mignon and roasted root vegetables. (Susan Desjardins)

Vintages Release: March 19, 2011

**** drink now
East Dell ‘Reserve’ Sauvignon Blanc 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (222174) 12.5% alcohol
This is appealing, fresh and vibrant offering lifted aromas of citrus, tree fruit, tropical notes and a whiff of nettle. Smooth in texture with sweet, ripe fruit on entry, it’s an invigorating mouthful of tangy acidity with lively citrus, gooseberry and tree fruit flavours to the fore. There’s a lingering, lively, lip-smacking aftertaste. Pour with smoked fish or a green salad garnished with goat cheese. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Vintages

***1/2 drink now
Henry of Pelham Sauvignon Blanc 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (430546) 12.5% alcohol
This clear straw-green wine displays a vibrant nose of gooseberry, grass and fresh citrus fruit showcasing a focus on viticultural practices that bring to the fore these distinctive characteristics. It’s light-medium bodied and crisp on the palate with mouthwatering citrus and currant flavours. There’s a lingering, elusive hint of pithiness on the delightful finish. Enjoy it with your choice of white fish or seafood. This is a Vintages Essentials product always available in select stores. (Susan Desjardins)

New in the LCBO Portfolio

**** drink now
Cave Spring Cellars Estate Gamay 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (228569) 13.5% alcohol
Deeply hued, this is a Gamay of character. The ripe fruit aromas are overlaid with vegetal and smoky nuances. There’s depth of fruit and complexity on the palate—cherry and pomegranate—with spicy, peppery notes and a smoky, vegetal note. Dry, medium bodied, the wine is nicely balanced with fresh acidity, perceptible tannin and a warm, peppery, lengthy finish. It earns an extra half star for value—a great match with BBQ chicken or pizza. (Susan Desjardins)

***1/2 drink now
Union ‘White’ 2009
VQA Ontario $13.95 (197145) 12.0% alcohol
Pale straw with some green hues, this blend of Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer and Chardonnay is from Generations Wine Company, a venture of Dr. Allan Jackson, of Jackson-Triggs and Vincor renown, and Andrew von Teichmann, sommelier, formerly of Pelee Island Winery and Vincor. This is a virtual winery with Dr. Jackson blending select wines from a short list of Niagara VQA wineries. He’s crafted a blend that combines delicate notes of citrus and nettle with crisp, spicy, lip-smacking fresh fruit—green apple, grapefruit and lemon-lime. Medium bodied with good length and a refreshing finish, this wine delivers. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Ontario Wineries

**** drink now
Calamus Pinot Gris 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.00 12.9% alcohol
This is a tasty, nicely balanced white that offers attractive aromas of sweet, tree fruit and citrus. Peach and pear flavours mingle with citrusy acidity on the palate providing a refreshing mouthful of flavour. It’s medium bodied with a hint of warmth lingering on the aftertaste. A perfect match for smoked salmon on potato latkes. It sells out quickly, order yours for daily home or office delivery from Calamus. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Trumpour’s Mill Cabernet Franc 2008
VQA Prince Edward County $17.95 13.0% alcohol

Cabernet Franc is one of Ontario’s signature varietals—this is a deep-ruby hue with appealing aromas of red fruit, wild blueberries, vanilla and an elusive trace of pencil shavings. This is lively on the palate with well-integrated oak and a ripe tannin structure. The flavours are appealing and enjoyable—cherry, raspberry pie and underlying hints of dark chocolate—and they persist on the finish. Offering flavour and value you won’t want to miss, it’s available for daily home or office delivery from Grange of Prince Edward County. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Konzelmann ‘Late Harvest’ Gewürztraminer 2008
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $17.20 (392357) 13.0% alcohol

Calling all Gewürz lovers, you won’t want to miss this gem—the gorgeous golden colour portends the weight and texture. Enticing aromas of rose water, lychee and spicy tropical notes lead into a nicely balanced, mid-weight, just off-dry beauty with refreshing, pungent acidity, and a lovely replay of the rich, ripe fruit and spice on the palate. Delightful on its own, it’ll be a great match to spicy Asian dishes. Currently available for daily home or office delivery from Konzelmann, look for it in one of this summer’s Vintages releases. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Konzelmann ‘Barrel Aged 4th Generation’ Merlot 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $25.00 13.0% alcohol
This was aged 18 months in new and seasoned French oak and is another delight from the storied 2007 vintage. It’s intense in color and aromas and rich with aromas of plum, black cherry, vanilla and spice box. Medium-full bodied and dry, the texture is velvety and sumptuous, the tannin well integrated and the rich, dark fruit deftly matched with fresh acidity. Hints of char and light pepper add complexity and linger on the lengthy, soft, fruity aftertaste. You won’t want to miss this; it’s available for daily home or office delivery from Konzelmann. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink now
Malivoire ‘M2 Small Lot’ Gamay 2009
VQA Niagara Escarpment $17.95 12.5% alcohol

This is a bright, crimson-hued gem that’s vibrant and earthy with focused, red fruit aromas and scents of vanilla—it was partially aged in seasoned oak. Soft and silky on entry, the palate’s awash with bright, fresh red fruit—cherry and raspberry—complemented with high notes of spice and white pepper. It’s dry and mid weight on the palate with peppery notes lingering on the lengthy finish. Lovely on its own or poured with a hearty, vegetable stew. Order for daily home or office delivery from Malivoire. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Reif Estate Chenin Blanc 2009
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $18.95 13.0% alcohol

This premium Niagara estate is one of the few producing Chenin Blanc and it’s consistently delicious. Subtle, delicate floral and lightly honeyed, stone fruit aromas delight, leading into a silky texture that offers distinctive minerality, crisp acidity and nuances of citrus and apricot. Dry and mid weight, the finish is lengthy and vivid with pleasing, tangy acidity and a nuance of slate. Order for daily home or office delivery from Reif. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Tawse Riesling 2009
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 10.0% alcohol

Drawing on fruit from four Niagara Escarpment vineyards, this is another award-winning offering. Expect lovely floral, tree fruit and citrus aromas leading to a basket of citrus at first sip—grapefruit, lemon and lime—racing across the palate on a spine of vibrant acidity. There’s great intensity here and a lasting finish with lingering mineral notes. A fine match for pan-fried cod with a squeeze of lemon and a candidate for medium-term cellaring. Order yours by the case for daily home or office delivery direct from Tawse. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tawse ‘Cherry Avenue’ Pinot Noir 2008
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $57.95 13.0% alcohol

This gold-medal winner is the product of estate-grown fruit, 40% whole cluster pressed. Deep ruby, the aromas are enticing—floral, black cherry and nuances of spice and earth. It’s medium bodied, dry and beautifully balanced with a wonderful spine of clean acidity, well-integrated ripe tannin and nuanced flavours of red fruit, earth, white pepper and spice. It’s intense and impactful through the long, fresh, dry finish. It’ll cellar medium-term, but you’ll want to drink it now! Order yours by the case for daily home or office delivery direct from Tawse. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Tawse Riesling Ice Wine 2009
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $34.95 (200 ml) 10.0% alcohol

Golden hued, this intense wine has luscious aromas of honeyed stone fruit, tropical fruit such as pineapple and guava, and ripe citrus. The tasting experience is like a soft wave pouring across the palate—silky sweet stone fruit on entry through fresh lemon-lime on the mid-palate—with the harmony of both riding the spine of fresh acidity through the intense, refreshing, long-lasting finish. Order yours by the case for daily home or office delivery direct from Tawse. (Susan Desjardins)

Cheers!

Vic and Susan