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September 8, 2019 Newsletter

Ottawa’s Largest Artisan Cheese Party!

Enjoying some treats

Learn about, taste and purchase artisan cheese and talk to cheese experts and the cheese makers who made them. Wine, beer and ciders also available.

Here’s the skinny:

Date: Saturday, September 21, 2019
Time: 10 am to 7 pm
Venue: Canada’s Agriculture & Food Museum, Central Experimental Farm

Get Tickets Now (no tickets sold at event)
Find out much more and purchase tickets here

The 8th annual Music and Beyond Fall Wine Auction!

Wine bottles

Friday September 27, 2019
Ottawa City Hall – Jean Pigott Place
18:30 Wine & cheese (Registration)
19:00 Live Auction
More information and purchase tickets here

Newsletter Highlights include:

There are more wines reviewed after the Vintages Release wines with most now available in LCBO stores. You’ll also find wines that are available with Limited Time Discounts from $1 to $5 per bottle as well as reviews for upcoming Vintages releases and one that’s in the ‘Classic Collection’.

Exceptional-value wine – 5 of the 32 wines in this newsletter meet strict quality-price guidelines. The wines range from $13.95 to $17.95 and are easily identified throughout the newsletter via the value checkmark above. Strict guidelines? Click here.
95 points and over – no wine rang the ‘95 points and over’ bell in this newsletter.
Finding Waldo – part of the proceeds from the sale of this wine are donated by the winery to the Ontario Association of Food Banks.
Louise Loves – 2017 Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay earned 91 points @ $19.95 found under Ontario: White Wine; 2014 Jean-Baptiste Adam ‘Letzenberg’ Riesling 2014 earned 93 points found under Vintages Classic Collection; 2018 Ambo Pinot Grigio 2018 earned 88 points @ $13.95 found under Italy: White Wine and, of course, her exceptional-value wine reviews.
Lisa Likes – 2017 Beringer Vineyards Napa Valley Chardonnay earned 89 points at $25.95 found under LCBO ‘Limited Time Offers.
Dave’s Delights – Jip Rocks Shiraz/Cabernet 2017 earned 90 points @ $16.95 found under Australia: Red Wine; J. Moreau & Fils Chablis 2017 earned 90 points @ $25.95 found under France: White Wine and, of course, his exceptional-value wine reviews.
Vic Picks – 2017 Calamus Estate Winery ‘Balls Falls Red’ earned 91 points @ $15.95 found under Ontario: Red Wine; 2016 Redstone Pinot Noir Sparkling Rosé earned 91 points @ $29.95 found under Sparkling Wine; 2018 Flat Rock Pinot Noir earned 91 points @ $21.95 found after the Main Release under New in Vintages; Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Baco Noir 2018 earned 92 points @ $24.95 found under Ontario: Red Wine and, of course, his exceptional-value wine reviews.

Vintages Release: September 14, 2019

Sparkling Wine

• The following value-laden 2016 Redstone Pinot Noir Rosé’ Sparkling Wine is vintage dated and crafted Méthode Tradionnelle from 100% Pinot Noir having four-day skin contact and kept on its lees for 12 months before disgorging.

91
 Redstone Pinot Noir Sparkling Rosé 2016
 VQA Lincoln Lakeshore $29.95 (644781) 12.0% alcohol
 This deep-pink-hued rosé offers aromas of strawberry, mineral notes and citrus. A frothy mousse when poured, the fine-bead bubbles wind to the top of the glass in seemingly endless lines. Flavours of ruby red grapefruit, blood orange and citrus pith bathe the palate infusing the lip-smacking dry finish and aftertaste. This sips well on its own and pours particularly well with pan-seared salmon, steamed mussels Provençal or paella. (Vic Harradine)

89
Graham Beck Brut Non-Vintage
WO Western Cape $18.95 (593483) 12.0% alcohol
A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, 30% of the wine for this sparkler was fermented in barrel, the blended wine undergoing 24 months of secondary fermentation in bottle. A charming pale-peach hue, the aromas of brioche, citrus, orchard fruit and spice drift from the glass. Dry, medium bodied, the mousse is mouth filling and creamy, the texture vibrant and the citrus and green apple flavours crisp. Finely crafted and lively, it sports good value. (Susan Desjardins)

90
 Château Moncontour ‘Tête de Cuvée’ Brut Vouvray Non-Vintage
 AOC Vouvray, France $19.95 (207936) 12.0% alcohol
 This bubbly opens with a lovely nose of citrus, leesy notes and honeyed, pit fruit aromas. A profusion of bubbles carry nutty nuances and yeasty bits interlacing with racy lemon zest and juicy white nectarine. It’s medium weight with a creamy smooth texture and crisp, refreshing, lip-smacking-good aftertaste. This is very good value and worth picking up a few to keep chilled for when friends drop by unexpectedly. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: White Wine

90
 Cave Spring Estate Chardonnay Musqué 2016
 VQA Beamsville Bench $17.95 (246579) 13.5% alcohol
 Crafted from a chardonnay grape clone, this aromatic 100% musqué varietal charms with its ripe fruit aromas—pineapple, peach and pear plus citrus and white blossom notes. This stainless steel fermented, medium-bodied white is round and ample on the palate showcasing mature orchard fruit flavours coated with a touch of honey and good balance of acidity resembling well-made viognier. A gorgeous wine to drink now with grilled sushi or seafood. (Louise Boutin)

91
 Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay 2017
 VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 (286878) 13.0% alcohol
 This is from 100% estate, hand-picked fruit matured on lees in oak barrels for 10 months. Lactic notes along with ripe pear, cooked apple and a wisp of vanilla aromas introduce a mellow palate-bathing wash of poached pear and buttered toast flavours, lifted with pink grapefruit tang on the finish. It’s medium-bodied with beautiful balance and warmth in the creamy, extended, dry finish. Pair with coquille St-Jacques. (Louise Boutin)

90
 Tawse Winery ‘Quarry Road Vineyard’ Riesling 2017
 VQA Vinemount Ridge $24.95 (198853) 10.5% alcohol
 Organic- and biodynamic-certified, this off-dry riesling shows classic aromas of petrol along with apple, honey, ginger and white grapefruit. A delicious flow of juicy apple, ripe pineapple and pink grapefruit flavours cross the plate with a mouth-watering effect and a surprisingly crisp and clean mineral finish despite its 25g/L of residual sugar. This has cellaring potential until 2025 and is quite delicious now with spicy food such as spicy Thai or Indian cuisine. (Louise Boutin)

Ontario: Red Wine

91
 Calamus Estate Winery ‘Balls Falls Red’ 2017
 VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (10527) 13.0% alcohol
 Alluring aromas of rich, dark berry fruit, dark chocolate and cassis abound on the nose of this deftly balanced, gorgeously flavoured red. It dishes up mouthfuls of sweet-tinged fruit—dark cherry and ripe bramble berry interwoven with excellent tang and acidity and mixed spice. It’s medium bodied with good mouthfeel and a lengthy finish oozing with flavour, tangy acidity and plenty of charm. Load up the trunk and pour with steak, burgers or beef fajitas. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2017 Featherstone Estate Winery Cabernet Franc is a Vintages Essentials product always available in select stores. It was matured in 100% American oak—mostly from California, coopered by Tonnellerie Ô, with 25% new and the balance one to four-year-old barrels.

90
Featherstone Estate Winery Cabernet Franc 2017
 VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (64618) 12.5% alcohol
 This is value-laden. Aromas of dark raspberry, pipe tobacco and peppery spice introduce palate flavours of tangy, crunchy red fruit—currant, cherry and plum—adorned with hints of herbal notes and soft ripe tannin. It finishes balanced, polished and lengthy. It’s medium weight with good texture and plenty of options at the table, grilled meats, burgers or ribs, red sauce, meat-laden pizza, boeuf Bourguignon or lamb tagine. (Vic Harradine)

• The release of the following 2016 Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Baco Noir is widely and highly anticipated having developed somewhat of a cult following over the past couple of decades. This 2016 vintage does not disappoint. It was aged 18-plus months in premium American oak barrel.

• The following wine is a Vintages Essential product always available in select LCBO stores

92
 Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Baco Noir 2016
 VQA Ontario $24.95 (461699) 13.5% alcohol
 Wood smoke, gamy notes and mocha aromas billow from the nose before spilling onto the palate with wild abandon with flavours of black currant jam, ripe black cherry and black licorice coating the palate interwoven with baking spice, kirsch liqueur and balancing tang. This is medium-plus bodied, loaded with value, fully flavoured and generously textured with good balance and a boatload of charm. Pour with wild game, hearty stew and grilled meat—lamb kebabs, sausage, burgers, steak. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

87
 Buena Vista ‘The Legendary Badge’ Petite Sirah 2016
 California $17.95 (545772) 14.5% alcohol
 This deep-purple hued, proprietary red blend—predominantly petite sirah and cabernet sauvignon—delivers a pleasing, ripe, fruity, spicy nose with blackberry, black plum compote, kirsch liqueur and spice. A wash of juicy black fruit floods the palate along with dark chocolate on the fruit-forward finish with chalky tannins adding structure. Just below off-dry on the sweetness scale, it’s full-bodied and will please the most discriminating in your barbecue-party crowd. (Louise Boutin)

92
 Robert Mondavi ‘Maestro’ 2014
 Napa Valley $59.95 (459933) 14.5% alcohol
 This red blend—73% cabernet sauvignon, 23% cabernet franc plus an even splash of merlot and petit verdot—is dense and complex on the palate. Aromas of mixed field berry fruit, piquant spice and tobacco leaf herald a full-bodied, generously textured mouthful of flavour with cherry, currant and cassis to the fore decorated with notions of spice, forest floor and minerality. It finishes lingering and luscious with palate replays. (Vic Harradine)

Australia: Red Wine

90
 Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz/Cabernet 2017
 Padthaway, South Australia $16.95 (186114) 14.5% alcohol
 There’s a lot of value in this cabernet sauvignon and shiraz blend. The nose is spicy with hints of cloves and pepper aromas. The palate is full bodied and smooth with a nice balanced acidity, well integrated tannins and flavours of vanilla and pie cherry. The finish is pleasant and fruity with notes of dried herbs. Enjoy with a hearty serving of chili con carne. (Dave Isaacs)

France: White Wine

90
 J. Moreau & Fils Chablis 2017
 AOC Chablis $25.95 (466144) 12.5% alcohol
 This is a wonderfully refreshing Chablis; the 100% malolactic fermentation plus the eight months it spends sitting on its lees gives it a varied nose of yeast and pear punctuated with notes of wet stones and chalk. It’s medium bodied and smooth on the palate with citrus-like acidity and flavours of pear and apple. A hint of astringency comes forward at the end of the finish. This will keep nicely in the cellar until 2022. Enjoy along with a baked fillet of salmon. (Dave Isaacs)

France: Red Wine

89
 Châteaux Haut-Lalande 2015
 AOP Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux $19.95 (546069) 14.5% alcohol
 This value-laden, Wine of the Month is a red blend of 85% merlot, 10% cabernet sauvignon and 5% malbec. It exudes aromas of ripe, black fruit, cherry and blackberry, along with cassis and delicious notes of freshly baked vanilla cake. The fruit is tart on the initial palate with suggestions of red cherry and red plum followed by ripe black plum, a vanilla replay, and a surprising peppery note on the finish and aftertaste. This is a crowd pleaser, medium-full bodied with integrated oak, mellow tannin and is a good match for red meat or pork with a spicy twist. (Louise Boutin)

90
 Gérard Bertrand Saint Chinian Syrah/Mourvèdre 2016
 AOP Saint Chinian, France $17.95 (370247) 14.0% alcohol
 This is a blend of syrah and mourvèdre with a third aged nine months in barriques. The rest remains in tanks to preserve the fruit character easily noticeable on the nose—ripe blue plum, blackberry, cassis—along with brined black olive, cinnamon and violet in the backdrop. Full of life on the palate, it flows nicely offering black fruit flavours and a toasty note, paired with high acidity and medium tannin getting grippy towards the dry lengthy finish. This is medium-full bodied with excellent alcohol integration and a definite crowd pleaser. Pour alongside, mixed grilled meats. (Louise Boutin)

Italy: White Wine

88
 Ambo Pinot Grigio 2018
 DOC Friuli, Italy $13.95 (10093) 12.5% alcohol
 This friendly-priced, medium-light bodied white from northeast Italy shows a pretty floral nose and fresh aromas of pear, green apple and pink grapefruit. Nose and palate are aligned here and the fresh juice flows easily with a nice zesty finish and aftertaste. Thirst quenching on its own, it’s also perfect with salted munchies. Drink now. (Louise Boutin)

Spain: Red Wine

90
 Balbás ‘Reserva’ 2006
 DO Ribera del Duero $24.95 (85183) 15.0% alcohol
 The perfumed nose gives up aromas of dark berry fruit, leather and spice. The well-defined palate flavours of black currant, cherry and cassis flow creamy smooth while decorated with tang, soft tannin and balanced on a pin. Twelve years on, this still has lively fresh flavour and excellent acidity. Drink in the short term. (Vic Harradine)

New in Vintages

• The following 2018 Flat Rock Pinot Noir was fashioned from estate-grown fruit hand harvested and hand sorted over ten days while at their optimum phenolic ripeness and eventually matured in French oak.

91
 Flat Rock Pinot Noir 2018
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $21.95 (1545) 13.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas of rich ripe cherry/berry fruit interwoven with mixed spice and herbs abound on the nose of this value-packed pinot. A medium-weight, creamy-textured flow of ripe cherry and bramble berry flavours intertwine with piquant spice and grilled herbs. It coats the palate with flavours framed with excellent acidity and underpinned by soft, ripe tannin. This offers good purity of fruit and deft balance from cork pop to last drop… What’s not to like? (Vic Harradine)

• The following very good value 2017 Les Vignerons du Castelas Côtes du Rhône was sourced from 50% grenache blanc, 30% roussanne and 20% clairette from estate vineyards positioned on the right bank of the Rhône River between Pont d’Avignon (feel free to join the sing-along) and Pont du Gard.

89
Les Vignerons du Castelas Côtes du Rhône 2017
AOP Côtes du Rhône, France $15.95 (142125) 13.0% alcohol
Alluring aromas of floral notes, apple and peach abound. The juicy fresh flavours refresh the palate with apple and pear intertwines with lemon and white grapefruit. More of the same persist through the tangy, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Crisp and refreshing on its own, it pour well with pan-seared or grilled seafood or prawn ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in Winecurrent

Vintages Release: September 28, 2019

• You and the following 2018 Flat Rock ‘Good Kharma’ Chardonnay can both be counted as big-hearted as a portion of your purchase price is donated by the winery to the Ontario Association of Foodbanks. The price-quality balance is attractive; pick up a few and drink over the next year or so.

88
 Flat Rock ‘Good Kharma’ Chardonnay 2018
 VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (356873) 12.5% alcohol
 This was fermented in stainless steel tank and matured in barrel for 6 months on its lees. Aromas of tropical fruit and citrus introduce a light-medium bodied, lightly oaked stream of ripe pineapple and white grapefruit interlaced with mineral notes and hints lemon curd. The finish is racy and showcases a lip-smacking spine of mouth-watering acidity. This is crisp, clean and refreshing; give it a go with sushi or ceviche. (Vic Harradine)

• The following 2016 Flat Rock ‘Gravity’ Pinot Noir was fashioned from 100% estate-grown fruit that was hand-picked, sorted, de-stemmed and cold soaked. Ambient cellar yeasts fermented the fruit with only free-run juice selected. Wine was racked, settled and bottled unfiltered. Only French-coopered oak barrels were used for ageing, 15% new. Total elevage was six months.

92
 Flat Rock ‘Gravity’ Pinot Noir 2016
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $34.95 (1560) 13.5% alcohol
A lively nose of red and black cherries and berries leaps from the glass decorated with baking spice and charred toast. It washes over the palate medium-plus bodied, underpinned with perceptible tannin and showcasing flavours of tangy red cherry and ripe black cherry engulfed with sharp spice, charm and complexity. Look for persistent purity of fruit, balanced on a pin with plenty of flavour. Tuck a few of these away—open in 2023 after careful cellaring; your patience should be handsomely rewarded. (Vic Harradine)

Available now via: Vintages Classic Collection; September, 2019

93
Jean-Baptiste Adam ‘Letzenberg’ Riesling 2014
AOP Alsace, France $38.00 (666800) 13.0% alcohol
Thirty-year-old riesling vines, nurtured organically and biodynamically by JB Adam, grow on the Letzenberg Hill, well known for its rich red soil. The bright yellow-shaded robe presents intense and complex aromas of ripe pear, apple cider, lemon confit, white flower, petrol and crushed gravel notes. It opens up with a round palate of orchard fruit flavours, quickly joined by mouth-watering vivid citrus acidity, briny notes and exquisite mineral character persisting in the long finish… all making the next sip quite irresistible. This superb, dry, medium-bodied gem needs air to fully reveal its stunning personality. Vigorous swirling or one-hour aeration is suggested before enjoying now and over the next five years. Try this alongside baked goat-cheese dip and crackers or freshwater pickerel amandine. (Louise Boutin)

LCBO ‘Limited Time Offers’

Regardless of the vintage you purchase from the LCBO, you’ll receive the discount shown for each bottle of wine reviewed below that is purchased from September 16 to October 13, 2019.

White Wine

• The following wine will be discounted $3.00 per bottle purchased from the price shown below.

89
 Beringer Vineyards Napa Valley Chardonnay 2017
 Napa Valley (84988) $25.95 14.1% alcohol
 There’s good value in this pleasing Napa chardonnay. Grapes sourced from multiple vineyard parcels were fermented in 25% stainless steel and 75% French oak followed by eight months barrel aging before bottling. The nose leads with lemon, lime zest, red apple adorned with a pleasant floral note, hints of spice and toast. Dry and medium bodied with balancing acidity, the generous mouthfeel transports flavours of Meyer lemon, pear and Gala apple through the medium-long finish before a mineral note appears on the aftertaste. Sip on its own or alongside simply-prepared roast chicken. (Lisa Isabelle)

• The following wine will be discounted $2.00 per bottle purchased from the price shown below.

90
 Bodega Garzón ‘Reserva’ Albariño 2018
 Uruguay $21.95 (646802) 14.0% alcohol
 This 100% Albariño was stainless steel tank fermented and remained in tank on its lees for 3 – 6 months. Alluring aromas leap from the glass— lemongrass and honeysuckle galore. It rolls over the palate medium bodied and nicely textured with juicy palate flavours—honeydew melon, lemon pie filling and saline-infused minerality. It finishes dry, tangy and lengthy. This pairs well with local ceviche or grilled calamari under a squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)

• The following wine will be discounted $3.00 per bottle purchased from the price shown below.

88
 Oyster Bay Pinot Grigio 2018
 Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand $19.95 (326090) 12.0% alcohol
 This is a cool-climate styled pinot grigio that was stainless steel fermented with a similar profile both on the nose and palate—ripe pear, green apple, a touch of ginger and a grassy/herbal note in the background. It’s medium-light bodied with a good balance of sweetness and acidity. It pairs well with friends and a sushi platter. (Louise Boutin)

• The following wine will be discounted $2.00 per bottle purchased from the price shown below.

Red Wine

• The following wine will be discounted $2.00 per bottle purchased from the price shown below.

90
 Bodega Garzón ‘Reserva’ Tannat 2018
 Uruguay $21.95 (558916) 14.5% alcohol
 Inky black in the glass, aromas of tobacco leaf, espresso roast and sandalwood waft easily from the glass. A delightful, well-balanced river of palate flavours capture attention with flavours of black plum and dark cherry underpinned by soft, ripe tannin. It’s medium-plus bodied with good texture and replays of palate flavours on the finish. Good to go now, pour alongside roast leg of lamb or beef tenderloin. (Vic Harradine)

• The following wine will be discounted $2.00 per bottle purchased from the price shown below.

89
 La Crema Pinot Noir 2014
 Sonoma Coast $34.95 (719435) 13.5% alcohol
 Sweet, ripe fruit is front and centre in this rich, luscious Pinot showcasing good depth and plenty of charm. Aromas of sweet vanilla, baking spice, mint and ripe black cherry unleash a medium-weight, well-textured flow of bramble berry jam and cherry clafoutie coating the palate garnished with toasty/oaky notes, a hint of milk chocolate and vanilla. Look for more ripe fruit and piquant spice on the lingering finish. (Vic Harradine)

• The following wine will be discounted $2.00 per bottle purchased from the price shown below.

• The following Montes Alpha 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon is a Vintages Essentials wine always available in select stores.

89
 Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
 DO Colchagua, Chile $19.95 (322586) 14.0% alcohol
 Ripe, juicy, red cherry/berry fruit, exotic spice and grilled savory herb aromas abound. It cuts a broad, complex swath across the palate with a nicely textured, medium-plus bodied flow of bramble berry and juicy black cherry mingling with sweet vanilla, baking spice, cracked black pepper and a wisps of soft, ripe tannin. The balanced finish and aftertaste is robust, lengthy and mouth-watering good. (Vic Harradine)

• The following wine will be discounted $2.00 per bottle purchased from the price shown below.

• The following 2016 Tawse ‘Growers Blend’ Pinot Noir is a Vintages Essentials product always available in select stores. This is a blend from hand-harvested fruit from select vineyards across the Niagara wine region matured 14 months in French oak barrels before bottling and release.

90
 Tawse ‘Growers Blend’ Pinot Noir 2016
 VQA Niagara Peninsula $25.95 (130989) 13.0% alcohol
 A lightly-hued red in the glass, it offers delicate aromas of piquant spice, cedar and raspberry on the nose. It streaks over the palate with tang, tart and acidity borne of crunchy red fruit flavours—currant, pie cherry and passionfruit—along with wisps of sharp spice. I enjoyed the tart acidity and am confident that with a pasta in tomato sauce, red pizza or lasagne pairing, most others will, too. (Vic Harradine)

• The following wine will be discounted $5.00 per bottle purchased from the price shown below.

89
 Inniskillin Vidal Icewine 2015
 VQA Ontario $49.95 (388306) 375 mL 9.5% alcohol
 This vidal icewine from Niagara expresses itself without reservation starting with lifted aromas of apricot, lemon and earthy notes. It blankets the palate with a textured wash of apricot tart, lime-soaked guava and orange marmalade. Lemon zest and grilled pineapple provide semblance of balance on the finish and aftertaste. Serve well chilled on its own or paired with fruit flan or blue cheese. (Vic Harradine)

• The following wine will be discounted $5.00 per bottle purchased from the price shown below.

88
 Jackson-Triggs ‘Reserve’ Vidal Icewine 2015
 VQA Ontario $39.95 (389411) 375 mL 9.5% alcohol
 Mango and ripe yellow peach aromas unleash a gusher of sweet, honeyed flavour on the palate with honey-drizzled peach pie and candied apricot coating the palate and persisting through the finish. It’s full bodied and generously textured delivering a sticky, sweet aftertaste. Pour with quality blue cheese or fruit flan. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Louise, Lisa, Dave, Vic