August 25, 2019 Newsletter
Ottawa’s Largest Artisan Cheese Party!
Learn about, taste and purchase artisan cheese and talk to cheese experts and the cheese makers who made them. Wine, beer and ciders also available.
Here’s the skinny:
Date: Saturday, September 21, 2019
Time: 10 am to 7 pm
Venue: Canada’s Agriculture & Food Museum, Central Experimental Farm
Get Tickets Now (no tickets sold at event)
Find out much more and purchase tickets here
The 8th annual Music and Beyond Fall Wine Auction!
- Friday September 27, 2019
- Ottawa City Hall – Jean Pigott Place
- 18:30 Wine & cheese (Registration)
- 19:00 Live Auction
- More information and purchase tickets here
Newsletter Highlights include:
There are more wines reviewed after the Vintages Release wines that are now available in LCBO stores. You’ll find wines that are available with Limited Time Discounts from $1 to $5 per bottle. In addition, there are 2 wines that offer bonus AirMiles. There also reviews for upcoming Vintages releases as well as New in Ontario Wineries.
- Exceptional-value wine
– many of the 35 wines in this newsletter meet strict quality-price guidelines. The wines range from $14.95 to $18.95 and are easily identified throughout the newsletter via the value checkmark above. Strict guidelines? Click here. - 95 points and over – no wine rang the ‘95 points and over’ bell in this newsletter.
- Finding Waldo – you’ll find the main ingredient for a ‘Kir’ cocktail reviewed below.
- Vic Picks – 2015 Quinta do Portal ‘Destino - Fifth Empire - Red Blend’ earned 92 points @ $22.95 found under Portugal: Red Wine; 2016 Château des Charmes ‘St. David’s Bench’ Cabernet Sauvignon earned 92 points @ $34.95 found under New in Ontario Wineries and, of course, his exceptional-value wine reviews.
Vintages Release: August 31, 2019
Sparkling Wine
89
Cave de Beblenheim Brut Rosé Crémant d’Alsace Non-Vintage
AOC Alsace $19.95 (168948) 12.5% alcohol
This dry, pale-salmon sparkler, made in the traditional method, displays a fine effervescence that persists on the palate. Delicate aromas and flavours of red field berries—cranberry, currant and raspberry—dominate, while lively acidity carries the flavours through a crisp, palate-cleansing finish. A great wine for sipping or paired with salads, fish or white meats. (Susan Desjardins)
Ontario: White Wine
• The following über-popular 2017 Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Black Sheep’ Riesling gains it’s moniker from the sheep that are kept to nibble leaves, exposing fruit to sunlight as Featherstone farms sustainably. The hand-picked, hand-sorted fruit was whole-bunch pressed transferred to stainless steel tanks, allowed to settle 36 hours then racked off its gross lees. By fall, 2018, this will be found more consistently in more LCBO stores as it moves to becoming a Vintages Essentials wine, always found in select stores.
91
Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Black Sheep’ Riesling 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (80234) 10.0% alcohol
Whiffs of petrol joined by citrus and mineral notes dominate aromas on the nose of this perennial favourite. It’s always marked by low alcohol, high acidity and high residual sugar balancing each other in a crescendo of pure ambrosia. It bathes the palate with a fully textured flow of green apple, ripe pear and lime cordial. It’s medium bodied and slightly off-dry with a solid line of nerve and verve acidity running from twist top to final drop. Pour with a deli board or spicy Asian cuisine. (Vic Harradine)
90
Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Four Feathers’ 2018
VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (341586) 12.5% alcohol
This incredibly popular aromatic white blend—61% riesling/18% gewürztraminer/13% sauvignon blanc/8% chardonnay—has a large following, it delivers in spades, vintage after vintage. Aromas of rosewater, lime and peach set the table for a smorgasbord of perfectly balanced, delicious palate flavours with Key lime, crisp green apple and lemon pie filling to the fore. It’s medium bodied, creamy smooth and lingers on the finish – balanced and mouth-watering good. Sip on its own or pour alongside pan-seared fish like salmon or trout, or thin-crust, lightly dressed three-cheese—brie, mozzarella, chèvre—white pizza. (Vic Harradine)
• A ‘Phoenix’ is a mythical bird associated with rebirth or renewal. In the particularly brutal winter of 2017, Featherstone’s then 14-year-old gewürztraminer vines appeared to have succumbed to the cold. However, they now seem to have survived and risen again by producing this limited bottling—only 171 cases produced. The following 2018 Featherstone ‘Phoenix’ is certainly deserving of your consideration.
91
Featherstone ‘Phoenix’ Gewürztraminer 2018
VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.95 (519025) 13.5% alcohol
This value-packed, limited-production gem leaps from the glass with aromas of rosewater, piquant spice and floral notes. It spreads over the palate creamy smooth, even a bit oily with generous texture and fabulous balance showcasing palate flavours of citrus tang, ripe nectarine and sharp, fresh ginger root. It’s absolutely delicious with a dry, lengthy, mouth-watering finish and a tell-tale gewürztraminer bite on the aftertaste. Remove from the frig 20 minutes before serving and pour with grilled and buttered prawns or lightly spiced chicken wings. (Vic Harradine)
Ontario: Red Wine
• The following 2017 Closson Chase ‘Vineyard’ Pinot Noir was sourced from two premium estate vineyards—90% South Clos, 10% Churchside—then fermented in a large oak fermenter and matured eighteen months in French oak barrel, less than 10% new.
91
Closson Chase ‘Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2017
VQA Prince Edward County $34.95 (145888) 12.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of mixed spice, beetroot and dark ripe cherry waft easily from this PEC pinot. Red berry and passionfruit palate flavours interweave with tangy pie cherry and wisps of drying tannin. It’s medium weight with very good mouthfeel and plenty of mouth-watering acidity on the back palate and aftertaste. Aerate/decant a couple of hours pouring with duck confit or tourtière. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2017 Featherstone Estate Winery Cabernet Franc is a Vintages Essentials product always available in select stores. It was matured in 100% American oak—mostly from California coopered by Tonnellerie Ô, with 25% new and the balance one to four-year-old barrels.
90
Featherstone Estate Winery Cabernet Franc 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (64618) 12.5% alcohol
This is value-laden. Aromas of dark raspberry, pipe tobacco and peppery spice introduce palate flavours of tangy, crunchy red fruit—currant, cherry and plum—adorned with hints of herbal notes and soft ripe tannin. It finishes balanced, polished and lengthy. It’s medium weight with good texture and plenty of options at the table, grilled meats, burgers or ribs, red sauce, meat-laden pizza, boeuf Bourguignon or lamb tagine. (Vic Harradine)
92
Featherstone Estate Winery ‘Red Tail’ Merlot 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (131540) 13.0% alcohol
Mixed spice, rich dark berry fruit and notions of cassis aromas on the nose, this value-packed beauty envelops the palate with rich, ripe and rarin’ to go creamy-smooth fruit flavours—black plum, black currant and racy pie cherry—robed in lip-smacking tang and baking spice, underpinned by soft tannin, It’s medium bodied with good mouthfeel and plenty to like about the finish and aftertaste, as well, it’s lengthy, dry with deft balance of tang, ripe fruit and soft tannin. Pour with a prime cut of beef with grilled Portobello mushrooms. (Vic Harradine)
California: White Wine
90
Stags’ Leap Chardonnay Napa Valley 2017
Napa Valley $41.95 (655381) 14.2% alcohol
This well-crafted, crisp chardonnay matured six months on lees in a mix of 25% new and 75% seasoned French oak with no malolactic conversion. The nose is elegant with citrus aromas combined with white flower, peach and a subtle vanilla note. It’s bright and fresh on the palate with a medley of pear, peach and grapefruit flavours complemented with vanilla, nutmeg and a delicious slate-minerality trailing in the long spiced finish. Medium-bodied with excellent alcohol integration, this is a winning choice when paired with moules et frites. (Louise Boutin)
California: Red Wine
90
Freemark Abbey Merlot 2014
Napa Valley $44.95 (1602) 14.5% alcohol
This is dark purple, almost opaque, with aromas of sprigs of mixed herbs and lively red cherry. A full-bodied, fully textured tsunami wave of tannin-laced flavour blankets the palate with flavours of briary fruit interwoven with tangy acidity, charred toast savoury herbs and baking spice. The finish is lengthy with perceptible notes of still-evolving tannin. Cellar carefully, opening 2020 and beyond. (Vic Harradine)
89
Ironstone Merlot 2017
Lodi $17.95 (704353) 14.5% alcohol
There’s a lot of value in this popular California merlot. Aromas of cherry, vanilla, dry wood and chalk are present on the nose. There’s a medium-full bodied mouthfeel with juicy acidity and smooth tannins. Bubble gum-like flavours of cherry and vanilla linger on the long tasty finish. It’s perfect to serve as an accompaniment to pre-dinner hors d'oeuvres. (Dave Isaacs)
Argentina: Red Wine
92
La Posta ‘Pizzella’ Malbec 2017
Mendoza $15.95 (166298) 13.0% alcohol
There is a lot to love in this exceptionally well-priced wine. It’s dark red, almost opaque, in colour, with a fascinating nose of damp wood, earth, moss, and hints of fresh thyme. It’s jammy and smooth in the mouth. The tannins are well integrated and sit in the background allowing mouth-watering flavours of cherry and blackberry to shine through. There is a wonderful balance of acid that carries a long fruity and herbaceous finish. You could lay this in the cellar for another couple of years, but better to enjoy it today with some herb-rubbed roast beef. (Dave Isaacs)
South Africa: Red Wine
91
Waterkloof ‘Circle of Life’ 2015
WO Stellenbosch, South Africa $19.95 (698175) 13.0% alcohol
Tarry/smoky aromas interlace with dark berry fruit on the nose of this 73% syrah/16% merlot/11% petit verdot blend. It coats the palate with a mocha-infused river of dark berry fruit and black cherry robed in black licorice and tarry notes. Medium-full bodied and well textured, it’s balanced with ripe fruit and excellent acidity from twist top to final drop. Pour alongside grilled lamb chops. (Vic Harradine)
France: Red Wine
88
Gérard Bertrand Côte des Roses - Grenache-Vermentino-Viognier 2018
AOP Côte des Roses, France $18.95 (10621) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of honey and pineapple waft easily from this aromatic white blend. It blankets the palate with a tang-infused river of lemon zest, Key lime and peach-skin flavour. This is light-medium bodied and delicately textured with oodles of tangy acidity from cork pop to last drop. The medium-length finish replays palate flavours. Pour alongside prawn ceviche or pan-seared fish under a generous squeeze of fresh lemon. (Vic Harradine)
Italy: Red Wine
90
Farina ‘Le Pezze’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2015
DOCG Amarone della Valpolicella $37.95 (171587) 15.5% alcohol
This value-laden gem combines depth of fruit with smooth texture, supple tannins and clean acidity. Ripe cherry and plum aromas intertwine with chocolate, vanilla, earth and spice. Dry, full bodied and well-balanced, succulent dark fruit flavours engulf the palate joined by hints of dried cherry, sweet spice and savoury herbs. It offers a lingering, warm finish and stands up to hearty, braised beef shanks. (Lisa Isabelle)
Portugal: Red Wine
88
Periquita ‘Reserva’ 2016
Vinho Regional Península de Setúbal $16.95 (488007) 13.0% alcohol
This is a blend of 56% castelão, 22% touriga nacional and 22% touriga francesa. It has a nose of strawberries and green leaf aromas. It’s medium bodied on the palate with a smooth mouthfeel and tannins that start small becoming more prominent on the finish. Flavours of cherry and vanilla also carry through to the finish and aftertaste. This will last in the cellar through to 2022 and pours well with aged cheddar cheese. (Dave Isaacs)
LCBO ‘Limited Time Offers’
Regardless of the vintage you purchase from the LCBO, you’ll receive the discount shown for each bottle of wine purchased from now to September 15, 2019.
White Wine
• The following wine will be discounted $1.00 per bottle purchased from the price shown below.
90
Flat Rock Cellars ‘Twisted - White’ 2017
VQA Niagara Peninsula $16.95 (1578) 11.0% alcohol
The price-quality balance tips well in your favour. Rosewater, mixed spice, green apple and lime aromas abound on the nose of this gorgeous riesling/gewürztraminer/chardonnay blend. It bathes the palate medium bodied, creamy textured with a flavour-packed mouthful of grilled pineapple, Key lime pie and lemon curd. Palate replays dominate the lingering dry and crisp, lip-smacking finish. Sip on its own or pour with an array of dishes—roast chicken, spicy Asian or white pizza and more. (Vic Harradine)
• The following two wines will be discounted $2.00 per bottle purchased from the price shown below.
• The following 2018 Susana Balbo ‘Crios’ Torrontés is a Vintages Essentials wine… always available in select LCBO stores.
92
Susana Balbo ‘Crios’ Torrontés 2018
Cafayate and Mendoza, Argentina $14.95 (1834) 14.0% alcohol
In a wine world awash with watery, sometimes bitter torrentés, this is an island of pure ambrosia. Honeysuckle and mixed spice aromas provide segue to a medium-bodied, nicely textured palate-bathing wash of ripe pear and honey drizzled pear that gives way to minerality and tang-infused lemon citrus providing a mouth-watering, crisp and refreshing finish and aftertaste. Pour with ceviche or pan-seared fish or grilled calamari. Just plain delicious. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2017 Vineland Estates St. Urban Vineyard ‘Elevation’ Riesling earns an exceptional-value checkmark during the limited time offer and is a relatively new Vintages Essentials wine; it’s always available in select LCBO stores.
92
Vineland Estates ‘Elevation’ St. Urban Vineyard Riesling 2017
VQA Niagara Escarpment $19.95 (38117) 8.5% alcohol
Aromas of mandarin orange, honey-drizzled pit fruit and whiffs of fresh ginger abound on the nose of this flavourful, value-packed, iconic riesling that was sourced from some of the oldest riesling vines in Ontario. A bracing wash of tangy lime cordial and lemon curd bathe the palate persisting through the very lengthy, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. It’s medium-bodied with good texture and pours well with baked ham dotted with cloves, or spaetzle with grilled or pan-fried bratwurst. (Vic Harradine)
• The following two wines will be discounted $3.00 per bottle purchased from the price shown below. They also both earn an exceptional-value checkmark during the limited time offer.
90
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Chardonnay 2016
VQA Short Hills Bench $21.95 (268342) 13.5% alcohol
This was barrel fermented and aged eight months in primarily French oak barrel. Toasty notes, baking spice and ripe apple aromas provide segue for a lively line of acidity and sweet tang interlaced with ripe orchard fruit, racy lemon and notions of flinty minerality. It’s nicely textured with good weight, depth and lengthy finish and aftertaste, Pour alongside pan-seared fish or supermarket rotisserie chicken with home-baked oven fries. (Vic Harradine)
89
Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2012
Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand $19.95 (316570) 13.0% alcohol
Lemon-lime citrus, grassy and pit fruit on the nose, this washes across the palate at full sail with tangy, juicy flavours of lemon drop candy, herbaceous notes and lip-smacking key lime pie flavours. Medium bodied with a silky mouth feel and consistently one of the most popular white wines in the Vintages Essentials line up. (Vic Harradine)
Rosé Wine
• The following Three of Hearts Rosé wine will be discounted $2.00 per bottle purchased from the price shown below. It also earns an exceptional-value checkmark during the limited time offer.
90
Speck Brothers ‘Three of Hearts’ Rosé 2018
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (552562) 11.5% alcohol
This value-laden, gorgeous blend—88% Pinot Noir/12% Pinot Gris—offers up aromas of floral notes, red fruit and citrus. It bathes the palate with a medium-bodied juicy and tangy wash of freshly picked strawberry, mandarin orange and grilled, sugared pink grapefruit. It’s fresh on the palate and through the lingering finish and aftertaste. Lovely on its own, you can pour alongside pan-seared asparagus sprinkled with crumbled chèvre, or with grilled seafood. (Vic Harradine)
Red Wine
The following Wakefield Merlot will be discounted $1.00 per bottle purchased from the price shown below. It also earns an exceptional-value checkmark during the limited time offer.
90
Wakefield Estate ‘Label’ Merlot 2017
Clare Valley, South Australia $19.95 (683201) 14.0% alcohol
This medium-full bodied red is aged in a mix of French and American oak barrels that have influenced aromas on the nose—baking spice and vanilla—underpinned by black cherry and blackberry fruit. It flows on the palate with flavours of ripe blackberry and dark chocolate lifted with tangy raspberry and an herbaceous note showing on the dry finish and aftertaste. Firm, fine-grained tannins add to the structure and cellaring potential. Aerate/decant two hours and enjoy now to 2022 with juicy, rare-grilled beefsteak. (Louise Boutin)
• The following Francis Coppola Cabernet Sauvignon will be discounted $2.00 per bottle purchased from the price shown below.
90
Francis Coppola ‘Diamond Collection Ivory Label’ Cabernet Sauvignon
California $24.95 (521021) 13.5% alcohol
Wood smoke and toasty oak mingle with ripe dark fruit—mulberry, bramble berry and juicy cherry on the nose of this meaty, delectable California Cab. It’s full bodied and fully flavoured flaunting rich, concentrated and luscious flavours of spice-laden black Bing cherry and briary berry garnished with dark chocolate and cassis. The finish lingers with gorgeous replays, lip-smacking tang and a supple tannin base. (Vic Harradine)
• The following Zenato Amarone will be discounted $5.00 per bottle purchased from the price shown below.
93
Zenato Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2012
DOCG Amarone della Valpolicella, Italy $50.95 (413179) 16.5% alcohol
Wood smoke, cedar and bramble berry fruit aromas provide segue for a rich, luscious, hi-octane, though deftly balanced and simply delicious stream of ripe fruit and soft tang with dried dark fruit, black berry and dark plum front and centre along with support from spice, earthy notes and notions of ripe red cherry. This is medium-plus weight with good texture, structure and a lingering full-of-flavour finish and aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)
• You will receive 5 Bonus AirMiles for each bottle purchased of the following Sella and Mosca Cannoneau from August 18 to September 14, 2019.
89
Sella and Mosca Cannoneau Di Sardegna ‘Riserva’ 2012
DOC Cannoneau Di Sardegna, Italy $17.95 (425488) 13.5% alcohol
This Cannoneau, a.k.a. Grenache or Garnacha, showers ripe fruit throughout along with good structure, intensity and balance. Aromas of anise, red berry fruit and wood smoke presage a steady wash of racy fruit flavour with red currant and pomegranate to the fore. It’s nicely balanced with a lengthy, dry finish layering on notions of dark coffee and spice. (Vic Harradine)
• You will receive 8 Bonus AirMiles for each bottle purchased of the following Pierre Sparr Gewürztraminer from now to September 14, 2019.
• The following Pierre Sparr Gewürztraminer is a Vintages Essentials product always available in select LCBO retail stores.
91
Pierre Sparr Gewürztraminer 2018
AOC Alsace, France $17.95 (373373) 13.5% alcohol
A dominant and alluring aroma of rosewater provides segue to this spice-laden generously textured gem. It dazzles the palate with piquant spice carried on a medium-plus bodied river of off-dry palate flavours—lychee nut, lemon pie filling and grapefruit zest—that cleans up nicely on the mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. This is crisp and refreshing, making it a great dance partner for quiche Lorraine, pan-seared fish or baked ham. (Vic Harradine)
Upstream in winecurrent
Vintages Release: October 12, 2019
• The following 2017 Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Riesling is primarily sourced from the revered Mosel 21B Weiss clone that was shovel planted in 1984 alongside a tributary of Richardson’s Creek in the prestigious Short Hills Bench appellation. Fruit was sustainably grown, destemmed, whole-berry pressed and fermented in stainless steel tank with a portion matured in large neutral-oak foudres for a fairly short time.
91
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Riesling 2017
VQA Short Hills Bench $19.95 (557165) 11.5% alcohol
This is off-dry and right on the money—it’s high quality, charming and very good value. Aromas of lemon curd waft easily from the glass mingling with hints of honey and spice. It bathes the palate with the yin and yang of sweet and tang from first to last drop. Flavours of lemon pie filling and hints of ginger with racy Key lime capture the palate and replay on the lengthy mouth-watering finish and aftertaste. This is superb when sipped on its own and sublime when poured with baked ham dotted with cloves and basted with maple syrup. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2015 Gérard Bertrand Languedoc Syrah/Grenache was hand harvested separately with the syrah undergoing whole-bunch carbonic maceration for 15 days and the grenache was destemmed and macerated approximately three weeks after which wine is transferred to 225 L barriques for about 10 months, lightly fined and bottled then bottle aged for several months before being released.
89
Gérard Bertrand Languedoc Syrah/Grenache 2015
AOP Languedoc, France $16.95 (413237) 14.0% alcohol
Gerard Bertrand continues to impress with his extremely giving, yet affordable, wine. This blend, 100% hand-picked, is mostly syrah and about one-third grenache with a lovely nose—ripe black fruit, mild oak, gingerbread, violet and rose aromas abound. A generous wash of juicy blackberry, ripe cassis and cinnamon flavours treats the palate followed with a piquant peppery note defining the fruity-spicy, medium-long finish. This medium-full bodied red has good structure and plenty of tang; it’s a good companion to grilled-rare lamb chops. (Louise Boutin)
• The following 2016 Jim Barry ‘The Cover Drive’ Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from cabernet sauvignon fruit from an abandoned cricket pitch near Penola in the terra rossa-rich Coonawarra wine region where, arguably, some of the best cabernet sauvignon wine in Australia and the world is produced. Cover drive is cricket terminology and the Barry family are cricket mad.
90
Jim Barry ‘The Cover Drive’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
Coonawarra, South Australia $19.95 (677476) 14.3% alcohol
This well-priced beauty offers cedar, mint, floral notes and dark berry fruit aromas. It’s medium-bodied with excellent palate-flavours of red and black fruit—red currant, black currant and dark cherry—interwoven with savory herbs. This flirts with elegance, showcasing good structure, complexity and plenty of lively acidity balanced with replays of ripe fruit flavours on the lingering, delectable finish. Pour with grilled strip loin or rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)
Vintages Release: November 9, 2019
• The following 2017 Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Pinot Noir was sourced from sustainably grown Pinot Noir, Clone 667 on Block 100 in estate vineyards planted 1998 to 2006, hand-harvested at yields of 3 tonnes per acre. It was fermented in stainless steel then matured 10 months in European oak. 30% new with a limited edition of only 250 cases of finished wine produced.
92
Henry of Pelham ‘Speck Family Reserve’ Pinot Noir 2017
VQA Short Hills Bench $34.95 (657874) 13.5% alcohol
Smoky notes, red berry fruit and beetroot aromas abound on the nose of this exquisite pinot noir. It bathes the palate with a gorgeously balanced river of pure ambrosia expressed in flavours of red cherry and cranberry with vibrant acidity, perfect balance, structure and persistent purity of fruit. The finish furnishes more of the same with savoury herbal notes, excellent tang and delectable fruit flavour. Pour alongside smoked duck breasts served on arugula dressed with mango chutney. (Vic Harradine)
New in Vintages
• The following 2016 Wakefield ‘Jaraman’ Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from two vaunted wine regions in the State of South Australia—Coonawarra with its coveted terra rossa soils—and Clare Valley, now the spiritual and worldly home of the Wakefield winery and its third-generation owners, the highly respected Taylor family.
90
Wakefield ‘Jaraman’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
Coonawarra/Clare Valley, South Australia $24.95 (142398) 14.5% alcohol
Lifted aromas of piquant spice, red and black berry fruit with hints of mint waft easily from this medium-plus bodied, fully textured cab. It envelops the palate with a tsunami wave of bracing acidity and still-evolving tannin interwoven with crunchy red fruit—pie cherry and red currant—to the fore. Aerate/decant three hours or pop corks 2022 and beyond. This is looking for a thick, juicy steak, grilled medium-rare. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2017 Closerie des Alistiers Bourgogne Aligoté was stainless-steel fermented, underwent malolactic conversion and aged six to nine months before bottling.
• Aligoté is the grape used in the first, ‘Kir’, cocktail—simply by adding a small amount of crème de cassis to Aligoté table wine—often at a ratio of 10 wine to 1 crème de cassis. The drink was later modified by adding the cassis to any sparkling wine and became known as, ‘Kir Royale’. Urban legend has it that it was Mayor Félix Kir of Dijon who first introduced this drink after a disastrous Aligoté vintage that left the wine barely drinkable, but was a huge hit with crème de cassis—cassis is also a locally produced spirit. The following wine is extremely drinkable, but fun to have with crème de cassis if you’ve not tried one. It’s also a hit when served to guests as a welcoming drink. Chill this and pour as you would any white table wine; add cassis to the glass before or after.
91
Closerie des Alistiers Bourgogne Aligoté 2017
AOC Bourgogne Aligoté, France $18.95 (557728) 12.5% alcohol
Light golden yellow and brimming with aromas; floral and nutty notes mingle with lemongrass on the nose. It blankets the palate with a delectable and lively wash of flavour with peach, lemon and Bosc pear to the fore. This is medium-plus bodied with good complexity, deft balance and plenty of pizzazz. It finishes lengthy, clean and refreshing with replays of citrus and pear and a notion of honey. In a word, delicious. Give this a go with grilled or pan-seared seafood, roast chicken or while sitting and sipping on your patio, deck or balcony. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2016 Château Hauchat Fronsac was sourced from 100% Merlot from premium vineyards—situated just west of Pomerol and St. Émilion—and produced by a family of eighth-generation, regional winemakers. The wine was matured 15 months in barrels—1/3rd new/1/3rd used one year/1/3rd used two years.
88
Château Hauchat Fronsac 2016
AOC Fronsac, France $17.95 (123489) 14.0% alcohol
Charred toast, cedar and dark bramble berry fruit aromas provide segue for a medium-weight, balanced, smooth and creamy stream of crunchy red fruit—cherry, currant and cranberry—mingling with savory herbs and piquant spice. It finishes with racy acidity and red fruit replays on the juicy, lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. This marries well with pasta puttanesca. (Vic Harradine)
• The following 2015 Quinta do Portal ‘Destino - Fifth Empire - Red Blend’ was sourced from fruit often reserved for high-end Port wines—45% tinta roriz (aka tempranillo)/30% touriga franca/25% touriga nacional that was matured nine months in French oak.
92
Quinta do Portal ‘Destino - Fifth Empire - Red Blend’ 2015
DOC Douro, Portugal $22.95 (646901) 14.0% alcohol
Lifted aromas of cigar smoke and dark, briary berry fruit aromas introduce this opulent red blend of Port grapes; this is the proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove. It captures the palate in a full-bodied, fully textured gusher of ripe, juicy fruit with black berry, dark Bing cherry and ripe mulberry galore. This is smooth as silk from cork pop to final drop delivering ripe juicy fruit on a bed of sweet vanilla and excellent lip-smacking acidity. Finishing lengthy and luxurious, balanced and beautiful, there’s a well-balanced notion of sweet ripe tannin on the finish and aftertaste. What’s not to like? Pour with steak and kidney pie. (Vic Harradine)
New in Ontario Wineries
• The following 2016 Château des Charmes ‘St. David’s Bench’ Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from one of the warmest sites in the Niagara peninsula some 10 km from Lake Ontario. The St. David’s Bench Vineyard is located within the VQA-designated area of St. David’s Bench allowing grape ripening and maturity most years. Limestone-enriched water flows down the Niagara escarpment via underground artesian springs adding character and interest to the organoleptic qualities of the wine.
• The wine-friendly 2016 vintage is on full display in this splendid cool-climate cabernet sauvignon. Even more so are the winemaking talents of Château des Charmes’, Amelie Boury, Vice-President, Winemaking and Operations, and her team… Kudos!
92
Château des Charmes ‘St. David’s Bench’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
VQA St. David’s Bench $34.95 13.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of floral, mixed spice and herbal notes dominate the aroma profile. It’s incredibly smooth and creamy on the palate while strutting its stuff with deft balance and ripe fruit flavours of dark Bing cherry and hints of bramble berry interlaced with wisps of minerality and excellent acidity. It finishes with great purity of fruit and balanced on a pin. This punches well above the price and deserves serious consideration. It’s drinking well now and should for five or more years. (Vic Harradine)
Cheers, Lisa, Louise, Dave, Vic