April 13, 2016 Newsletter

Newsletter highlights include:

• Exceptional-value wine   – 8 of 70 wines reviewed meet the strict quality-price guidelines; all are highly recommended and all are easily identified throughout the newsletter with 4 of the 8 found after Vintages Release wines. What strict guidelines? Click here.
• Finding Waldo – Merlot and Syrah were hand-picked for this delectable red wine at 1100 m in the wine-denominated region of Pago Guijoso.
• 5-star Wine – 4 wines rang the 5-star bell – Château Clarke 2009 @ $42.95 under France: Red Wine; San Felice ‘Il Grigio - Gran Selezione’ Chianti Classico 2011 @ $46.95 and La Lecciaia Brunello Di Montalcino 2010 @ $57.95 both under Italy: Red Wine and Duckhorn Vineyards ‘Goldeneye’ Pinot Noir 2013 @ $70.00 under Upstream in winecurrent.
• Susan Selects – Château des Charmes ‘Old Vines’ Riesling 2013 @ $16.95 with 4½ stars under Ontario: White Wine; Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir 2010 @ $24.95 with 4½ stars under Ontario: Red Wine; Château Sainte-Marie ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Entre-deux-Mers 2014: @ $14.95 with 4½ stars under France: White Wine and Domaine le Grand Retour ‘Plan de Dieu’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2013 @ $14.95 with 4 stars under France: Red Wine.
• Vic Picks – J. Lohr ‘Los Osos’ Merlot 2013 with 4 stars @ $21.95 under Feature: California Wine; Vineland ‘Elevation – St. Urban Vineyard’ Riesling 2014 with 4½ stars under Ontario: White Wine; Culmina ‘R & D’ ‘Red Blend’ 2014 @ $24.95 with 4½ stars under Okanagan Valley: Red Wine; Château Bonnin Pichon 2012 @ $19.95 with 4½ stars under France: Red Wine and Stefano Accordini ‘Acinatico’ Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2013 @ $22.95 with 4½ stars under Italy: Red Wine.

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, updated every 24 hours, some stores post earlier. LCBO Portfolio wines (not Vintages) should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. However, it’s always best to phone first.

Vintages Release: April 16, 2016

Feature: California Wine

Edmeades Zinfandel 2013
Mendocino County $23.95 (105924) 15.0% alcohol
Small percentages of Petite Sirah and Syrah enhance this expressive, enticing Zinfandel. This deep ruby red showcases complex aromas of spiced rose, cedar, vanilla, dark berry, cherry and plum. Full bodied, the gentle tannic frame underpins juicy texture arising from lively acidity complementing concentrated rich dark fruit. Elusive notes of licorice and dark chocolate tantalize the palate while finishing dry, warm and fruity. This is a great match for pork back ribs or herbed braised chicken thighs. (Susan Desjardins

Ironstone Petite Sirah 2014
Lodi $17.95 (361915) 14.5% alcohol
Intensely fragrant aromas of dark berries, smoke and spice fairly burst from the glass. Big and dry, it showcases deeply concentrated flavours of blackberry and blueberry, spice replayed, chocolate and smoky toast. Powerful velvety tannins and clean acidity balance the focused, jammy dark berry fruit persisting through the finish dressed with elusive notes of smoke. Serve with mint-infused lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

Michael David ‘Freakshow’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Lodi $26.95 (405175) 14.5% alcohol
The aromas showcase rich ripe blackcurrant jam mingling with notions of sweet spice, grilled herbs and earth. Broad shouldered and full bodied, the dark fruit shines through with laser focus, the underlying notes of herbs and earth replaying, the oak aging shows flavours of charry toast. The concentrated fruit wraps around ripe supple tannin maintaining its position as star performer through the rich flavourful finish. Serve with rare-grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Brazin ‘(B)Old Vine’ Zinfandel 2013
Lodi $20.95 (256750) 14.5% alcohol
Big and bold yet approachable, this Zin is crafted from fruit of 30-year-old, low-yielding vines. It offers appealing aromas of cherry, mixed berry compote, spice and smoke. Dry and full bodied, concentrated dark fruit explodes on the palate complemented by supple structure, satisfying acidity, attractive notes of charry toast, spice and earth. The powerful, long finish is warm, fruity and totally beguiling. Ribs coming up! (Susan Desjardins)

J. Lohr ‘October Night’ Chardonnay 2014
Arroyo Seco, Monterrey $34.95 (225375) 14.9% alcohol
There’s complexity and freshness to this lovely barrel-fermented, barrel-aged Chardonnay. On the nose you’ll find layered aromas of grilled pineapple, honeysuckle, ripe pear and baked apple, sweet spice and caramel corn. Medium-full bodied and dry, the defined backbone of acidity delivers remarkably fresh texture, balancing the alcohol extending the lengthy rich finish. The wine maintains its nuanced character on the palate, tropical and orchard fruit flavours replaying, entwined with notes of caramel apple, spice and vanilla. Try with butternut squash risotto. (Susan Desjardins)

Justin Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Paso Robles $49.95 (684308) 14.9% alcohol
Look for complexity on the nose including attractive floral and herbal nuances, subtle earthy notes and lush red and black fruit. This is full bodied and crafted to balance well-defined supple tannin with well-integrated oak. The focused and intensely flavourful black fruit is generous and substantial. It’s long and dry on the finish offering appealing lingering notes of vanilla, mint and smoky toast—enjoy with rare prime rib. (Susan Desjardins)

J. Lohr ‘Los Osos’ Merlot 2013

Paso Robles $21.95 (27516) 13.5% alcohol

From a stellar vintage, this was whole-berry fermented with full malolactic conversion, aged 12 months in American oak barrel, 22% new. This Merlot has a 14% splash of Malbec adding to the fruit and long finish. Aromas of peppery notes, espresso roast and red berry fruit open this medium-full bodied, fully textured gem. A juicy, balanced wave of red currant, pie cherry and ripe sweet mulberry meld on the palate replaying on the dry, lip-smacking aftertaste. Pair with slow-roast pork and root veggies. (Vic Harradine)

Treana Red 2012
Paso Robles $40.95 (11221) 15.0% alcohol
Opaque ruby, this full-bodied red blend—principally Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah—showcases alluring aromas of black currant and cherry embellished with vanilla, spice and earth. Luscious dark fruit takes the lead and is well matched with firm perceptible tannin and fine acidity. The flavours of grilled herbs join a replay of spice and vanilla adding depth through the lasting, dry finish. Serve with grilled meats. (Susan Desjardins)

Fortified Wine: Port

• Late Bottled Vintage Port—more commonly known by its initials, LBV—is a popular, premium Port style. It’s made from red grapes from the Douro wine region of Portugal. Port is sweet because only about half the available sugar is fermented as the yeast is killed at that point by an addition of brandy alcohol, bringing the alcohol by volume to approximately 20%. Like Vintage Port, fruit was sourced from a single year. LBV differs from Vintage Port in a number of ways including being more moderately priced, being aged for four to six years in barrel rather than approximately two for Vintage Port and it’s usually filtered before bottling. It’s more approachable at a younger age, being ready or almost ready to drink upon purchase and it doesn’t improve a great deal with further bottle age although aerating will help open the aromas and flavours. It’ll stay fresh over three or four days as long as you stopper the bottle after opening and for a week or two, if stored in the refrigerator –place at room temperature two hours before pouring. The following 2010 Croft LBV is very good value and an excellent example of what this style of Port can offer.

Croft ‘Late Bottled Vintage’ Port 2010
DOP Porto $19.95 (87601) 20.0% alcohol
Baking spice, dark chocolate and ripe dark berry fruit aromas abound. It coats the palate with a sweet-tinged, mouth-filling gusher of spice cake, black currant, cassis and black liquorice. It’s medium-full bodied and generously textured finishing with replays and excellent balancing acidity. This is quite versatile—sip on its own post-dinner as dessert or with chocolate dessert, serve with cheese including Stilton or aged cheddar or lash out and try with grilled steak drizzled with Port reduction sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Champagne

H. Blin ‘Milléseme’ Brut Champagne 2006
AC Champagne $74.95 (299990) 12.5% alcohol
The extended aging of this vintage Champagne manifests in the aromas of toasted nut, yeast and grilled bread layered on citrus, baked apple and pear. Fine bead bubbles and vibrant acidity accent the intensity of the flavours of green apple skin and zesty citrus with nutty toasty notes of lees aging complementary. Creamy, refined and elegant, this is one to sip and savour. (Susan Desjardins)

Ontario: White Wine

 
Château des Charmes ‘Old Vines’ Riesling 2013
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $16.95 (277228) 12.0% alcohol
The beautifully fragrant nose is complex and captivating—floral notes mingle with petrol and mineral, melon and a basket of ripe stone fruit. Just off-dry and medium bodied, there’s a fascinating interplay of flavours—zesty citrus and lively mineral notes mingle with the sweetness of nectarine, while the lovely creamy texture brings you back for yet another sip. Masterfully balanced, the wine shows verve and tang through the lengthy, juicy finish. What a great value! Stock up for sipping on the patio, the porch, the dock . . . (Susan Desjardins)

 
Flat Rock Chardonnay 2013
VQA Twenty Mile Bench $18.95 (286278) 13.0% alcohol
Hand harvested, aged in French oak, this brilliant golden wine fuses delicious aromas of a basket of ripe fruit with scents of nutty oak, vanilla and spice. The palate is equally alluring, offering tasty orchard fruit, pineapple and citrus matched with buttered popcorn and delicate notes of spice. There’s great richness to the texture, depth of flavour, the balance of well-defined acidity, and longevity to the fresh, fruity finish. Serve this great-value Chardonnay with poached salmon or grilled halibut. (Susan Desjardins)

 
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Chardonnay 2014
VQA Short Hills Bench $19.95 (268342) 13.5% alcohol
Opening with tropical fruit, buttery, toasty notes and spice, this dry, mid-weight wine freshens the palate with finely-honed acidity paired with ripe orchard fruit, juicy pineapple and tangy citrus. The oak presents in the sweet spicy notes and a touch of nuttiness, but the underlying freshness shines through on the clean, tasty finish. Enjoy with veal chops or herbed grilled pork loin. (Susan Desjardins)

 
Vineland ‘Elevation – St. Urban Vineyard’ Riesling 2014

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 (38117) 8.0% alcohol

Sourced from 35-year-old, 21-B Weiss clone vines, famously brought over from Weingut St. Urbans-Hof in Mosel, Germany by Hermann Weis; this is unfettered joy. Piquant aromas of lime, steely mineral notes and apple pierce the air. It streaks over the palate with wild abandon, lemon rind and white grapefruit pith garnished with honey-drenched mango and nectarine. It’s off dry and terrific now continuing to evolve over the next few years—good value and not to be missed. Pour with butter chicken, garlic naan and steamed rice. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

 
Henry of Pelham ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir 2010

VQA Short Hills Bench $24.95 (268391) 13.5% alcohol

From one of Niagara’s great vintages, produced from the fruit of older, low-yielding vines, this wine shows its pedigree with attractive and complex aromas and flavours. On the nose there are earth, smoky notes, spice and ripe red fruit replaying on the dry, medium-plus bodied palate. There’s a savoury quality to the wine, perceptible tannin, lively acidity and well-integrated oak. Showing complexity, weight, fresh texture, well-developed fruit flavours and a long, tasty, finish, this offers great value and versatility for matching with heavier meat or fowl dishes. (Susan Desjardins)

 
Kacaba Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

VQA Niagara Escarpment $24.95 (326496) 13.5% alcohol

Alluring aromas of roasted herbs, pipe tobacco and dark berry fruit abound. It rolls over the palate with a structured wash of spice-infused bramble berry, dark coffee and cassis. Medium-plus bodied with good texture and deft balance, concentrated flavours replay on the finish with a supple tannin underpinning and great tang. The aftertaste is fruity and lip-smacking good. Aerate/decant for two hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

Okanagan Valley: Red Wine

• The following is from a family familiar to Ontarians, the Triggs. Don was former co-owner—along with Alan Jackson—of Jackson-Triggs; they built it into the most powerful brand in the Canadian wine industry. Elaine and Don Triggs with daughter Sara now spend their time working magic with wine in B.C.’s Okanagan Valley. Susan Desjardins has spent considerable time in the area and writes this about Culmina and the following red, ‘This reflects Don’s dedication to in-depth analysis of the Triggs family Golden Mile Bench estate, as well as a tribute to his twin brother Ron—the R in R & D. The bold blend showcases the south Okanagan’s weighty Merlot as its subtle aromas of dried herbs evoke the region’s desert landscape of antelope brush and desert sage, the power and ripeness of dark berries and plums and the well-integrated notes of vanilla and smoky toast. Rich, velvety and full bodied, intensely flavourful and subtly structured, this wine brings together rich flavours of ripe plums, black cherry and berry, exotic notes of spice and roasted red pepper, coffee bean and cedar.’ We both loved this.

 
Culmina ‘R & D’ ‘Red Blend’ 2014

VQA Golden Mile Bench, Okanagan Valley $24.95 (445494) 14.0% alcohol

This blend of predominantly Merlot, along with the two Cabs, is from the fabulous Okanagan Valley sub region, Golden Mile Bench, just south of Oliver, BC. The lifted nose of cedar, spice and black plum aromas let loose an elegant, well-paced stream of bramble berry fruit and red cherry robed in spice cake and dark bittersweet chocolate on the palate. It’s medium-plus weight with good mouth feel and a balanced and beautiful finish and aftertaste. Red-wine lovers will adore this. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Rosé Wine

 
Featherstone Rosé 2015
VQA Niagara Peninsula $15.95 (117861) 13.2% alcohol
Candy apple pink, this dry rosé is a delight with aromas focused on wild red berry fruit and also offering earthier notes and a whiff of roasted red pepper. It’s fruity on the palate, clean in texture, tasting of juicy red cherries and strawberry-rhubarb jam, along with the savoury earthy notes subtly adding character. Palate pleasing and fresh on the finish, you’ll enjoy this with a spinach/strawberry salad with salmon. (Susan Desjardins)

California: White Wine

Château St. Jean Fumé Blanc 2013
Sonoma County $19.95 (537639) 13.6% alcohol
Although there are grassy notes, nettles and piquant savoury aromas on the nose, this settles on the palate as a creamy smooth river of ripe apple and pear with grilled pineapple and lemon pie filling bathing the palate. It’s medium bodied and very nicely textured with a clean, crisp and refreshing aftertaste. Give this a go with spanakopita; here’s a recipe. (Vic Harradine)

De Loach ‘OFS’ Chardonnay 2012
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County $50.95 (729343) 14.5% alcohol
This is complex and nicely structured with poise and charm. Cinnamon, nutmeg, buttered toast and tropical fruit aromas herald a full-flavoured, fully textured wash of apple, sweet vanilla, pear and nutty notes robed in tangy citrus acidity. Its medium-plus bodied with good focus, persistent fruit, seamlessly integrated oak and deft balance. The lingering aftertaste is crisp and mouth watering. (Vic Harradine)

Kendall-Jackson ‘Vintner’s Reserve’ Chardonnay 2014
California $12.95 (703710) 375 mL 13.5% alcohol
This is a crowd-pleasing California Chardonnay that’s nicely balanced with oodles of ripe fruit and acidity and just the right size for a pre-dinner aperitif. Floral notes blend with honeydew melon and toast on the nose before showering a lovely river of sweet, ripe fruit—Bosc pear, red apple and white nectarine—on the palate. It finishes in a blaze with enough acidity for balance and a crisp, refreshing aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Simi Chardonnay 2014
Sonoma County $19.95 (673806) 13.5% alcohol
This was predominantly barrel fermented then 85% aged in French and American oak barrel—25% new/75% seasoned—with the balance in stainless steel tank. Sandalwood and honey mingle with apple and pit fruit aromas introducing a well-paced and focused flow of tropical fruit and white peach framed by lemon tang and notions of Granny Smith apple. It’s very good value, medium-plus bodied with good mouth feel and long, balanced and delicious finish. Kudos to winemaker, Susan Lueker. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

• The following Silverado Vineyards red blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot was barrel aged 17 months in 48% new oak, 98% French with 2% American with the balance in stainless steel tank.

Silverado Vineyards ‘Estate Grown’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Napa Valley $58.95 (111880) 14.6% alcohol
This is expressive and well structured with depth and intrigue. Aromas of mixed berry fruit and dark cherry interweave with Indian spice, espresso roast and minty notes. A firm stream of black briary berry, dark plum and black Bing cherry join forces on the palate supported by a cast of extras—spice, dark coffee bean, sweet vanilla and dark bittersweet chocolate. It’s full bodied with still-evolving tannin and oodles of juicy tang. Pour after a lengthy aeration/decant with a fine cut of grilled red meat. (Vic Harradine)

Oregon: Red Wine

Wine by Joe Pinot Noir 2014
Oregon $29.95 (60467) 13.5% alcohol
There’s a lovely floral note that drifts from the glass, accompanied by vanilla and spice, layered on red berry and cherry aromas. Medium bodied, there’s a touch of peppery spice to perk up the palate, bright tasty red fruit—cranberry, raspberry and cherry—and the clean backbone of acidity of a typical cool-climate wine. Nicely balanced, with good depth of flavour, this wine finishes dry and tasty. Serve with duck confit or grilled salmon. (Susan Desjardins)

Chile: Red Wine

Miguel Torres ‘Cordillera de los Andes Special Reserve’ Carmenère 2009
Curicó Valley $21.95 (301432) 14.5% alcohol
Opaque, carmine red, this brawny wine delivers powerful aromas of smoked meat, grilled herbs and mint, red licorice, pomegranate and cherry. There’s great intensity of flavour—black brambles, black and red cherry mingling with smoky toast, pepper and spice. The lushness of the fruit is balanced by well-defined tannins, nuanced oak and a fresh texture. Big, bold and full bodied, this lingers long and dry on the finish. Serve with herbed roast leg of lamb. (Susan Desjardins)

Australia: Red Wine

Barossa Valley Estate ‘Ebenezer’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

Barossa Valley $39.95 (39537) 14.5% alcohol

There’s depth and complexity to this inky Cab, the nose proffering rich aromas of ripe dark fruit intertwined with notes of cedar and earth, dried herbs and smoke. Dry, big and powerful, the velvety texture is framed by firm structure with abundant, intense fruit flavours—cassis, plum and blackberry—balanced by defined acidity. Well-integrated oak offers notes of spice and dark chocolate on a long, concentrated finish. This was masterfully crafted—a candidate for further cellaring. (Susan Desjardins)

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet/Shiraz/Merlot 2012
Coonawarra, South Australia $24.95 (511600) 13.5% alcohol
Dark berry fruit and tarry aromas precede a riveting river of tang-laden flavour—red and black currant framed by passion fruit acidity underpinned by a firm tannin structure. It’s full bodied and fully textured with more than its fair share of persistent juicy dark fruit and flavour. Aerate/decant three hours pouring with grilled gourmet sausage or roast leg of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

South Africa: Red Wine

Rustenberg R.M. Nicholson 2013
WO Simonsberg-Stellenbosch $19.95 (278390) 14.5% alcohol
The intensity of this blend is evident the inky purple hue and enticing and complex aromas—lush, ripe, black fruit, floral notes, hints of cracked pepper, sweet spice and vanilla. This medium-full bodied Shiraz, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon blend has great balance and impact—a velvety texture framed by ripe tannin and acidity with tasty flavours of cassis and plum. Hints of well-integrated toasty oak mingle with notes of tangy pepper and spice lingering on the lengthy, dry finish. Savour with juicy grilled meats and root veggies. (Susan Desjardins)

France: White Wine

Pierre Sparr ‘Réserve’ Pinot Gris 2014
AOC Alsace $16.95 (983395) 12.5% alcohol
Melon, pineapple and honey on the nose, this dazzles the palate with oodles of flavour, texture and delectable nectar. A smorgasbord of flavour bathes the palate with ripe nectarine and pear bolstered by lemon curd. It’s medium bodied and creamy smooth with balance and a lingering, crisp and refreshing finish and aftertaste. Pour with pan-seared scallops or grilled or roast chicken. Stock up for summer at this attractive price. (Vic Harradine)

Château Sainte-Marie ‘Vieilles Vignes’ Entre-deux-Mers 2014

AOC Entre-deux-Mers, France $14.95 (447565) 12.5% alcohol

Bright and clean on the nose, this award-winning, value-packed blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle offers light floral and herbal aromas, notes of citrus, apricot and a notion of wet stone. Light-medium bodied on the palate, the texture is mouth-watering and crisp, the citrus expressed as grapefruit and lime with hints of smoke and flint, the herbaceous quality adds character. Finishing long and dry, this is your go-to wine for fresh seafood. Vic and I loved this. (Susan Desjardins)

• The following white wine hails from the southern Burgundy region of Mâcon. Previously known for red wines, it’s now made up of almost exclusive vineyards of Chardonnay. It’s a logical place to shop for reasonably priced, good-quality Chardonnay. This particular producer seldom, if ever, disappoints.

Cuvée Joseph Talmard Mâcon Chardonnay 2014
AOC Mâcon $16.95 (392712) 13.0% alcohol
This is medium-full bodied with good flavour and balance and a price-quality ratio skewed well in your favour—it’s worth a multiple purchase. Floral, nutty notes, sweet vanilla and citrus aromas open up this delicious Burgundy Chardonnay. It spills over the palate with oodles of ripe orchard fruit—peach, pear and apple—balanced with lemon curd and lime cordial. There are wisps of toast and baking spice on the lengthy aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

Château Bonnin Pichon 2012
AOC Lusac Saint-Émilion $19.95 (280008) 13.5% alcohol
This is well paced and extremely well priced. Fruit for this complex, structured red blend was sourced from a 7 ha plot of predominantly 25-year-old Merlot vines along with Cabernet Sauvignon and a few rows of Cabernet Franc. Lifted aromas of roasted herbs, tobacco and dark cherry/berry fruit open up this mid-weight, nicely textured beauty. A persistent stream of briary berry, kirsch liqueur, dark juicy cherry and charred toast coat the palate infusing the lengthy aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Château Clarke 2009

AOC Listrac-Médoc $42.95 (503904) 13.0% alcohol

This is a wonderful opportunity for red-wine lovers of all stripes—it punches well above the price and the appellation, delivering a mouthful of flavour, complexity, purity of fruit, balance and structure. This Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend opens with floral aromas interwoven with cedar, black licorice, pipe tobacco and dark cherry. There’s full-bore fruit—black currant, black plum and dark Bing cherry along with wisps of mint. It’s fully textured, creamy smooth and accessible now with a long mellow aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

Château Haut Selve 2012
AOC Graves $24.95 (738120) 13.0% alcohol
This is a fairly even split of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that was aged 12 months in French oak barrel before bottling. Earthy aromas meld with red and dark berry fruit before enveloping the palate with a broad swath of black raspberry and ripe mulberry underpinned by a solid lick of tannin. It’s quite sophisticated and deftly balanced with firm structure and excellent acidity persisting from cork pop to last drop—aerate/decant three hours before serving. (Vic Harradine)

Domaine de la Charbonnière Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2012
AOP Châteauneuf-du-Pape $43.95 (62711) 15.0% alcohol
This silky, stylish red blend—70% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre—offers aromas of piquant spice, grilled herbs, tobacco and red cherry/berry fruit. It dishes up a rich, luscious flow of dark black cherry and ripe sweet mulberry mingling with wisps of gamy notes and black licorice. It’s medium-full bodied and balanced on a pin with good texture and long, lip-smacking aftertaste. As premium C-d-P goes, it’s well priced. (Vic Harradine)

Domaine le Grand Retour ‘Plan de Dieu’ Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2013

AOC Côtes du Rhône-Villages $14.95 (224592) 14.0% alcohol

Predominantly Grenache, accented with Syrah and Mourvèdre, this blend is bursting with ripe fruit, spice and notes of vanilla. Dry and full bodied showing good complexity and structure, the palate’s laden with cherry/berry and plum flavours, an earthy quality comparable to worn leather and attractive notes of spice and bouquet garni. Well-integrated oak offers pleasant toasty notes on the dry finish. Rebuild your wine supply and enjoy this value-packed beauty with braised beef on a cold winter’s day. (Susan Desjardins)

Italy: Red Wine

Giribaldi Barbaresco 2011
DOCG Barbaresco $34.95 (101147) 14.0% alcohol
This 100% Nebbiolo offers highly scented aromas of floral notes, herbs and tobacco before unleashing a persistent streak of racy red currant and tangy red cherry juxtaposed with swirls of sweet cassis on the palate and lingering dry finish. It’s medium bodied and nicely textured with notions of spice and truffles appearing on the aftertaste. It’s ready to drink now after a two-hour aeration/decant, pour and pair with devilled kidneys. (Vic Harradine)

Patrizi Barolo 2011
DOCG Barolo $34.95 (653527) 14.0% alcohol
Lilac, sandalwood and stewed prune aromas waft from this medium-full bodied, well-textured Nebbiolo. It’s complex and firmly structured, dishing up luscious dark cherry and dried currant nicely balanced with tangy red raspberry, racy passion fruit and grilled herbs on the palate. The finish replays flavours along with hints of mocha and a lick of perceptible tannin that’s easily ameliorated with a three hour aeration/decant. (Vic Harradine)

Carpineto Chianti Classico 2013
DOCG Chianti Classico $19.95 (356048) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of dark berry fruit and wisps of cocoa drift from this medium-bodied, quite appealing Sangiovese. A creamy-smooth wash of red berries and ripe cherry adorned with dark coffee and savoury notes bathe the palate infusing the mid-length, well-balanced finish and aftertaste. Sip on its own or pour with a selection of cheese— Brie de Meaux, Époisses de Bourgogne, aged Cheddar, Saint Albray. (Vic Harradine)

Guado Al Tasso ‘Il Bruciato’ 2013
DOC Bolgheri $25.95 (674135) 14.0% alcohol
This red blend—65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 15% Syrah—from the estate of Marchesi Antinori showcases its lofty provenance with pure fruit flavour, good structure and charm. Earthy and charred toast on the nose, it flows over the palate rich and ripe with juicy black berry and dark Bing Cherry to the fore. It’s medium-full bodied with good mouth feel with the lengthy finish layering on savoury notes on the aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

• The recent (2014) category ‘Gran Selezione’ is a layer above the ‘Riserva’ category and includes only Chianti Classico wine. It’s for estate-grown wine only, subject to stricter regulations and awarded only after passing laboratory tests and a tasting panel. It’s estimated that it’ll be attained and awarded to wine accounting for less than 10% of total production. The following San Felice is a dazzling example. It was sourced from 80% Sangiovese fruit with the balance an array of five indigenous grapes that were all fermented separately in stainless-steel tank before being matured 24 months in 50% large 60-100-hectolitre Slavonian oak casks and 50% in small 225- and 500-litre French oak barriques then further bottle aged for four months.

San Felice ‘Il Grigio - Gran Selezione’ Chianti Classico 2011
DOCG Chianti Classico $46.95 (403477) 14.5% alcohol
This is elegant and structured with cellaring potential, persistent purity of fruit and an extended aftertaste. Rosewood, piquant spice and red cherry aromas introduce a stunning full-bodied, fully textured gusher of black and red fruit—sweet, ripe mulberry and tangy red cherry—melding seamlessly with sweet vanilla and toasty notes. There’s excellent balance of acidity, fruit and ripe tannin all captured in the lingering aftertaste and enhanced with a three-hour aeration/decant. Pour now to 2020. (Vic Harradine)

La Lecciaia Brunello Di Montalcino 2010
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino $57.95 (121905) 14.5% alcohol
This is value-packed, rich and luscious with charm and balance entwined with a plethora of ripe fruit aromas and flavours from a fabulous vintage. A superb bouquet of Zinfandel and Port-like aromas—baking spice, über-ripe dark fruit with fig and raisin—mingle with pipe tobacco making way for a medium-weight, smooth-as-silk river of dark berry fruit and piquant spice with roasted herbs draped in good balancing acidity and touches of elegance. The lengthy finish layers on black licorice and hints of ripe, soft tannin. Drink now after a two-hour aeration/decant and over the next 4 to 5 years. (Vic Harradine)

San Felici ‘Il Grigio’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2011
DOCG Chianti Classico $27.95 (716266) 14.5% alcohol
Cedar, truffles and tobacco aromas on the nose, this svelte, mid-weight Riserva skates across the palate with black currant and pie cherry garnished with savoury herbs and peppery spice. The finish and aftertaste showcase replays bolstered by good acidity and tang along with a pungent bite on the aftertaste. It’s good to go now and pours well with Osso Bucco. (Vic Harradine)

Michele Castellani ‘Colle Cristi’ Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2010
DOCG Valpolicella Classico $44.95 (222109) 15.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of dark chocolate, cigar box and earthy bits provide entry for a smooth and balanced wash of red cherry, black berry and blueberry interlaced with dark bittersweet chocolate extending through the long finish. This is medium bodied with good texture and plenty of reasons to pick up a bottle or two. It pours particularly well with shards of Parmigiano Reggiano or well-aged Cheddar. (Vic Harradine)

Stefano Accordini ‘Acinatico’ Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2013
DOC Valpolicella Classico Superiore $22.95 (85159) 14.0% alcohol
This is rich and ripe with a full-textured, fully flavoured stream of ripe berry fruit on the palate and lengthy aftertaste. Wood smoke and black briary berry on the nose, it coats the palate with a textured river of black currant and ripe mulberry mingling with wisps of mocha, spice and dried fruit. According to the winery website, this was aged in French oak barriques for 12 months, then six months in bottle and it’s paired for cellar-door tastings with salami and cheese. It’s a cut above most Ripasso and highly recommended. (Vic Harradine)

Upstream in winecurrent

Vintages Release: April 30, 2016

Cloudline Pinot Gris 2014
Willamette Valley $21.95 (159988) 13.9% alcohol
Highly expressive and fragrant aromas burst from the glass—honeysuckle, honeydew melon, nectarine, delicate spice and a whiff of mineral. Dry, medium bodied, clean yet lush with ripe fruit and refreshing Meyer lemon flavours, the wine finds balance in a clean backbone of well-defined acidity. Tangy and juicy through the lasting finish, it’s delicious on its own or may be paired with shellfish or soft cheeses. (Susan Desjardins)

Vintages Release: May 14, 2016

• The following Rosewood Riesling has an addition of Süssreserve. This method, accredited to German winemakers, refers to the addition of non-fermented grape juice held back and added after all fermentation has ceased—adding texture, natural acidity and sweetness to the fermented wine. This particular Riesling is incredible value and a dazzling example of a wine with Süssreserve.

 
Rosewood Estates ‘Süssreserve’ Riesling 2015

VQA Niagara Peninsula $14.95 (258806) 10.1% alcohol
Aromas of honeyed nectarine and lemon zest herald a full-flavoured, fully textured river of peel marmalade, lemon pie filling with wisps of minerality and baked apple. This is balanced on a pin with a lingering sweet and tang aftertaste. It’s this yin and yang that make it so versatile at the table—pour as an aperitif or with spicy Asian dishes or green salad under crumbled chèvre or blue cheese. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: May 28, 2016

William Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
North Coast $21.95 (453647) 13.9% alcohol
A spicy, floral fragrance precedes ripe dark fruit, cedar and forest floor aromas. There’s terrific value in this deftly balanced, medium-full bodied red crafted from fruit of four counties influenced by cooling breezes of the Pacific ocean. Defined by a focused core of plush cassis, black plum and berry, the velvety texture pairs with ripe, perceptible tannin and well-integrated oak manifesting in notes of cedar and cocoa. The intensity and depth of fruit is offset by pleasing freshness, the finish lingering, dry and spicy. Savour with herbed roast leg of lamb, or mature hard cheeses and charcuterie. (Susan Desjardins)

Vintages Release: June 11, 2016

The following Francis Coppola beauty is a dazzling example of California Chardonnay showcasing very good value, tropical fruit, well-integrated oak and wonderful balancing acidity. There’s an added 8% ladle of Viognier for its floral notes and a 2% spoonful of Riesling for finesse and elegance. It spent 9 months maturing in well-seasoned French oak barrel that’s now completely integrated.

Francis Coppola ‘Diamond Collection - Gold Label’ Chardonnay 2014

Monterey County $22.95 (708305) 13.5% alcohol
This is balanced and delicious with purity of fruit, depth and complexity. Baking spice, tropical fruit and citrus aromas set the table for a smorgasbord of flavour with melon, grilled pineapple and white nectarine showing the way entwined with apple pie spice and tangy lemon curd. It’s medium weight with creamy-smooth mouth feel and a crisp refreshing finish and aftertaste. Pick up a few before it disappears. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: June 25, 2016

• The unique, gorgeously fashioned bottle of the following Francis Coppola Rosé should jump off shelves given the rich fruit flavour and mouth-watering tang to be found in this medium-bodied, creamy-textured, Syrah/Grenache/Pinot Noir red blend Rosé. One might confuse this with a premium Tavel.

Francis Coppola ‘Sofia’ Rosé 2015

Monterey County $24.95 (284943) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of red berry fruit, spice and floral notes herald a delicious stream of freshly picked strawberry, red cherry and ruby red grapefruit tang on the palate then amplified with great élan on the dry, spicy, lip-smacking finish. Pour on its own as an aperitif or alongside pan-seared salmon or with olive-oiled mesclun salad and crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: August 2016

Duckhorn Vineyards ‘Goldeneye’ Pinot Noir 2013
Anderson Valley, California $70.00 14.5% alcohol
From the cool Anderson Valley of Mendocino County, this suave Pinot Noir aged sixteen months in French oak, 70% new. Semi-transparent ruby, the bright, lifted multifaceted aromas hurtle from the glass—red cherry, red and black berry, hints of smoke and earth, notions of spice and dried herbs. Dry, medium bodied with an attractive touch of warmth on the palate, it’s laden with ripe flavours of cherries, berry and plum garnished with a dash of white pepper, cinnamon and nutmeg. The velvety texture and refined supple tannin play off the lively acidity delivering a smooth, fresh, lasting finish. Pour with duck confit. (Susan Desjardins)

Vintages Release: September 3, 2016

• The following Sauvignon Blanc from Joel Gott was sourced from three prime California AVAs providing excellent balance between ripe fruit and fresh, juicy acidity then fermented and aged in stainless steel tank and stainless steel barrel, the latter providing terrific mouth feel and complexity as this portion of the juice was matured sur lie—on spent yeast cells—and stirred—a.k.a. batonage—while aging.

Joel Gott Sauvignon Blanc 2014
California $19.95 13.9% alcohol
Nuanced aromas of tropical fruit, apple and notions of grassy/nettles introduce a crisp refreshing wave of lemon curd and Key lime pie entwining with notes of white peach and Granny Smith apple. This is medium bodied with excellent texture and a clean, crisp and mouth-watering aftertaste. Pour with crumbled, grilled goat cheese over green salad dressed with olive oil and a dribble of red wine vinegar. (Vic Harradine)

Vintages Release: Fall 2016

Paul Hobbs ‘Crossbarn’ Pinot Noir 2013
Sonoma Coast $49.95 (118696) 14.1% alcohol
Ruby hued with a violet note, the lovely ripe aromas of red berry and black cherry tantalize the nose mingling with classic aromas of vanilla, dried herbs and spice. Dry and mid-weight, there’s lively red fruit on the palate—cherry, raspberry—spicy toasty notes and an earthy quality, all underpinned by supple tannin and fine acidity that deliver an appealing velvety texture. Showing great balance, concentration and freshness, this is a versatile wine that will pair with pork, duck or veal. (Susan Desjardins)

New in Vintages

• The following 13th Street Winery sparkling wine is a Vintages Essentials product and is always stocked and available in select stores.

 
13th Street Winery Cuvée Brut Rosé Non-Vintage
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (147504) 12.5% alcohol
This ‘traditional method’ sparkling Rosé underwent its second fermentation in the bottle and is a blend of 56% Pinot Noir, 45% Chardonnay and a splash of Gamay. Aromas of strawberry, baking bread and red licorice introduce an elegant mousse of fine-bead bubbles infused with an array of racy flavour—red currant and cranberry mingle with peach skin and grilled, lightly sugared pink grapefruit. All in all, balanced and crisp, good value and lip-smacking delicious. (Vic Harradine)

Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Blancs Non-Vintage
Carneros $28.75 (223792) 12.5% alcohol
Produced from 100% Chardonnay, this is a classic, delivering lovely aromas of brioche, citrus and orchard fruit. Dry, mid-weight, the vibrant acidity and finely-wrought creamy mousse accent the flavours of citrus, green apple and pear. Showing good length in the clean, slightly pithy finish, it’s just delightful. (Susan Desjardins)

• Receive 12 Bonus AirMiles on the purchase of each bottle of Mumm ‘Cuvée Napa’ Brut Prestige Non-Vintage from now until April 23, 2016.

Mumm ‘Cuvée Napa’ Brut Prestige Non-Vintage
Carneros $25.95 (217273) 13.0% alcohol
An equal blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, aged 12 months on the lees, this tantalizing Methode Traditionelle sparkling wine shows a complex nose reminiscent of rising bread, toasted nut, clover honey, citrus and pear. Dry, medium bodied, with a vibrant presence and creamy fine-beaded mousse, it’s zesty with citrus flavours and tangy apple skin, long and clean with a replay of toasted nut on the finish. Sip and savour or serve with light appetizers. (Susan Desjardins)

New in LCBO Portfolio

• The following Cassilero del Diable is $3.00 off the price shown below, now until April 24, 2016—stock up for summer barbecues at that exceptional price.

Casillero del Diablo ‘Devil’s Collection - Reserva’ 2104
DO Rapel Valley, Chile $14.90 (436956) 13.5%
This proprietary red blend dishes up aromas and flavours of ripe dark fruit, peppery spice and espresso roast. It coats the palate with a medium-full bodied, well-textured river of bramble berry and red currant tang mingling with spice underpinned by firm, fine-grained tannin. Aerare/decant a couple of hours serving with burgers, steaks or beef fajitas. This is very good value. (Vic Harradine)

• The following fabulous Rioja Bordòn is $3.00 off the price shown below, now to April 24, 2016. It’s quite special in the manner in which it’s evolved for over a decade while still retaining its freshness and lively flavour.

Rioja Bordòn Rioja 2005
DOCa Rioja, Spain $23.85 (428060) 13.5% alcohol
An alluring bouquet of briary berry and red cherry aromas entwine with notes of baking spice, cedar and dark chocolate on the nose of this luscious Tempranillo. It bathes the palate with a seamless stream of medium-full weight, lively, fresh, red and black berry fruit robed in excellent acidity underpinned by a supple tannin structure. It showcases persistent purity of fruit from first sip to final lingering aftertaste—seamless and delectable. It flirted with 5-stars and is great value. (Vic Harradine)

 
Girl’s Night Out ‘BFF – Red’ 2014
VQA Ontario $12.95 (415299) 13.0% alcohol
Red wine at a wonderful price—it’s light-mid weight with no rough edges and pronounced red fruit with oodles of spice. Aromas of Piquant/peppery spice, red licoroice and cherry/berry fruit precede a light-on-its-feet stream of red cherry and red currant underlined with spice and racy tang. There’s sweetness for balance on the finish. Pour with comfort food—pizza, ribs, wings or pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Blackstone ‘Winemaker’s Select’ Merlot 2014
California $15.95 (363333) 13.5% alcohol
This is smooth and creamy on the palate with great balance and loads of fruit—the price-quality balance tilts well in your favour. Aromas of black plum, baking spice and smoky notes set the table for a medium-plus bodied flow of rich luscious flavour with dried cherry and black berry to the fore robed in lip-smacking red berry tang and good structure. It’s good to go now, particularly with barbecued red meat and gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)

• The following Pelee Island Chardonnay is $1.50 per bottle off the price shown below now to April 24, 2016 making it one of the best buys on LCBO shelves.

 
Pelee Island ‘Reserve’ Chardonnay 2014
VQA Ontario $11.95 (216044) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of pit fruit, pear and apple introduce a balanced, crisp, refreshing flow of nectarine and green apple mingling with lemon curd tang coating the palate infusing the lengthy finish and lip-smacking aftertaste. This was barrel fermented and gently aged in seasoned oak. It’s medium bodied with creamy-smooth texture and showcases delightful baking spice throughout. Its delicious now and pairs well with chicken, pork or veal as well as sea food. (Vic Harradine)

 
Sprucewood Shores Pinot Grigio 2015
VQA Ontario $14.95 (426577) 12.0% alcohol
In a wine world awash with insipid Pinot Grigio, this stands head and shoulders above most with creamy-smooth texture and rich fruit flavour—it’s also very good value. Aromas and flavours abound with honey, tropical fruit and lemon pie filling. It’s clean and refreshing and nicely balanced, Pour with lighter-styled appetizers and mains. (Vic Harradine)

New in Ontario Wineries

• Order for daily home, office or restaurant delivery from Pelee Island Winery.

  
Pelee Island ‘Vinedresser’ Cabernet Sauvignon – Petit Verdot 2014
VQA Ontario $19.95 13.0% alcohol
This 85% Cabernet Sauvignon / 15% Petit Verdot red blend rips from the glass with peppery spice and grilled herbs drenched in fresh red berry fruit aromas. It dazzles the palate with a firm and balanced wash of tang-laced red currant and pie cherry with wisps of kirsch liqueur and blueberry appearing on the dry aftertaste. Medium-plus bodied and nicely textured, it benefits from a two-hour decant served alongside grilled beef tenderloin. (Vic Harradine)

• Rosehall Run is one of the original County wineries with vines now more than a decade old. They’ve been consistent with quality and value and they’ve excelled with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the get go. The quality-value proposition is in your favour right across the impressive portfolio with winemaker Dan Sullivan guiding impressive results with a steady hand and impeccable vine management and winemaking expertise. The following Unoaked Chardonnay is a prime example.

• Order the following by the case for daily office or home delivery direct from the winery using this link - Rosehall Run - or pick it up from the cellar door on your next visit to the winery in Prince Edward County. It’s just two-plus hours drive from the GTA or Ottawa via the 401. Here’s a map. 

 
Rosehall Run ‘Hungry Point - Unoaked’ Chardonnay’ 2015

VQA Prince Edward County $19.95 13.0% alcohol
This value-laden, dry-farmed Chardonnay saw not a splinter of oak. It showcases creamy-smooth mouth feel and gorgeous fruit flavour that’s pure and persistent from cork pop to last drop. Aromas of orchard fruit—peach, pear and apple—and floral notes morph into fresh lively flavour with crisp green apple balanced with white nectarine, yellow plum and flinty/mineral notes. Its medium weight with gorgeous texture and lip-smacking aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

New in Private Order

• Order the following wines—plus those in many previous newsletters—by the case (some in cases of six) for home, restaurant or office delivery in Ontario from VinoLuna wine agency. Contact via website, VinoLuna, by Email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it., or in the GTA phone 416 587-6691.

Bodegas Martínez Lacuesta ‘Reserva’ Rioja 2007
DOCa Rioja, Spain $28.95 13.5% alcohol
This near decade-old red blend—Tempranillo, Graciano, Mazuelo—has matured gracefully, now showcasing a bouquet of exotic spice, leather, berry fruit and mocha. It bathes the palate, mid weight and smooth as silk with a gentle, balanced stream of lively fresh red cherry interlaced with spice, cassis and hints of bramble berry pie. The finish lingers replaying delicious flavours. Here’s a unique opportunity to taste an aged Rioja—still with life and freshness—at a very attractive price. (Vic Harradine)

Domaine de Vervine Vacqueyras 2014
AOP Vacqueyras, France $27.20 13.5% alcohol
This red blend is primarily Grenache with Syrah and a spoonful of Mourvèdre sourced from vines averaging 55 years of age. Aromas of fresh red berries, piquant spice and black plum provide segue for a juicy, fresh stream of tangy pie cherry, racy red currant and notions of red licorice and ripe strawberry. It’s medium weight and nicely textured with still-evolving tannin showing on the palate and mid-length aftertaste. This really soars with pasta in tomato sauce. (Vic Harradine)

Bodegas Vegamar ‘Vinos de Autor - Crianza’ 2013
DO Valencia, Spain $21.90 13.5% alcohol
This Tempranillo/Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot red blend has pure fruit flavours complexity and depth. It offers alluring aromas of incense, floral notes, cedar and red cherry. Waves of creamy-smooth, fruit-laden ripe mulberry and sweet black Bing cherry flow over the palate, deftly blanced and interwoven with sweet vanilla, spice and excellent tangy acidity. It finishes lengthy and luscious with replays and offers terrific value. (Vic Harradine)

Bodegas Vegamar ‘Vinos de Autor - Reserva’ 2012
DO Valencia, Spain $27.35 13.5% alcohol
This is an elegant red blend—Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot—that’s intensely scented and creamy smooth delivering persistent purity of fruit and a lingering, luscious aftertaste. Rose petals, exotic incense and sprigs of herbs and spice open this medium-full bodied gem. It bathes the palate with a balanced and beautiful surge of ripe red cherry, bramble berry pie and piquant spice bathing the palate persisting through the long lip-smacking finish. Quite special, especially at this more than reasonable price. (Vic Harradine)

Dezzani ‘La Luna e Le Stelle’ Barbera d’Asti Superiore 2013

DOCG Barbera d’Asti, Italy $16.05 13.5% alcohol 
The low-yielding hand-harvested, 100% Barbera fruit underwent lengthy maceration before spending 12-14 months in barriques and bottle prior to release. Charred toast, espresso roast and dusty cocoa aromas set up a lively gusher of red and black cherry and tangy cranberry robed in excellent acidity. It’s bolstered by soft, ripe tannin adding structure and interest. This is nicely textured with good weight and focus along with a lengthy dry finish layering on a delightful Amarone-like bite on the aftertaste. Pour with pasta puttanesca or grilled rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

Bodegas y viñedos Familia Conesa ‘Finca La Sabina’ Merlot Crianza 2011
D.O Pago Guijoso, Spain $23.85 13.0% alcohol
The hand-harvested fruit for this red blend—85% Merlot/15% Syrah—was sourced at 1100 m and aged 12 months in French oak. Fresh lively aromas of red cherry and currant mingle with spice on the nose of this medium-bodied, creamy-smooth red. It bathes the palate with waves of red and dark berry fruit and savoury herbs garnished with licorice and tangy cranberry while the dry finish lingers, balanced and mouth-watering. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers, Vic and Susan