Winecurrent
September 29, 2015 Newsletter

Newsletter highlights include:

Recently launched –When you need a phone number or address – 411.com comes to the rescue. When you need information on Canadian wineries – now WINE411.ca is a click away. Do you think there’s not one winery in Saskatchewan? You’re correct… there are two! With over 800 listings of grape and fruit wineries plus cideries and meaderies, it covers Canada from coast to coast. Check this out here then bookmark it… WINE411.ca.

  • Exceptional value wine Exceptional Value!  – 6 of 51 wines reviewed meet the strict quality-price guidelines, all identified throughout the newsletter—one following the Vintages release—priced between $13.95 and $30.00. What strict guidelines?  Click here.
  • 5-star Wine – one wine rang the 5-star bell - 2027 Cellars ‘Wismer Vineyard-Fox Croft Block’ Chardonnay 2012 @ $30.00 under Ontario: White Wine also earning ‘exceptional-value’ status.
  • Finding Waldo – an Appassimento-styled wine earning 4 stars that’s terrific value at $15.95. 
  • Julie’s Jewel – Viña San Estaban ‘In Situ - Reserva’ Carmenère 2012 earning 4½ stars @ $14.95 under Chile: Red Wine also earning ‘exceptional-value’ status.
  • Vic Picks – Rosewood Estates ‘Harvest Gold - Dry Mead’ 2013 earned 4 stars @ $14.95 under ‘Specialty Wine’; 2027 Cellars ‘Wismer Vineyard-Fox Croft Block’ Chardonnay 2012 earned 5 stars @ $30.00 under Ontario: White Wine; Rosewood Estates ‘Select Series’ Pinot Noir 2012 earned 4½ stars @ $21.95 under Ontario: Red Wine; Escorihuela Gascón ‘1884 Estate Grown’ Malbec 2013 earned 4½ stars @ $16.95 under Argentina: Red Wine.

Access the LCBO store nearest you with stock of any wine with an LCBO product number by clicking on the number shown in brackets in wine reviews then clicking on select stores and entering your postal code. The number of bottles available in each store near you is displayed. For Vintages Release wines, stock should be displayed the Friday before a Saturday release, some stores post earlier. For LCBO wines, it should closely reflect stock in stores, updated every 24 hours. It’s always best to phone first.

October 3, 2015 Vintages Release

Feature: Bordeaux

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Donissan 2011
AOC Listrac-Médoc $19.95 (365874) 12.5% alcohol
This cooler, elevated AOC is known as the roof of the Médoc. Wood smoke, earthy notes and dark berry fruit aromas set the table for a spice-laden, tangy surge of red and black currant and black juicy cherry washing over the palate in waves. It’s stylish and structured, medium-plus weight and creamy smooth with a long finish showcasing more that its fair share of charm. It’s value packed and simply scrumptious. (Vic Harradine)

**** cellar
Château Le Caillou 2009
AOC Pomerol $52.95 (45682) 13.5% alcohol
Ripe berry fruit, rosewood and spice box aromas beguile the olfactories before enveloping the palate with a tang-laden river of concentrated dark berry fruit, black cherry and toasty bits. This is medium bodied with good mouth feel and a long drying finish underpinned by a solid base of tannin. Tuck away and open 2017 – 2022 pouring with a grilled rack of Australian lamb. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Vieux Château Gachet 2000
AOC Lalande-de-Pomerol $29.95 (191023) 13.0% alcohol
From a vintage that started out poorly, but surprised when perfect harvest conditions presented, this shows well except for a solid whack of tannin—careful cellaring to 2017 may move this up a notch or two. An involved nose of camp coffee, cola and dark berry fruit uncovers a tapestry of flavour with red berry acidity—currant, cranberry and raspberry—to the fore. It’s medium-plus bodied with a cloak of still evolving tannin on the finish and aftertaste. Decant/aerate for three hours pouring with well-seasoned grilled steak. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 cellar
Château Lagrange 2011
AOC Lussac Saint-Émilion $18.95 (230391) 13.0% alcohol
Aromas of charred toast and truffles open the door for a teeth-staining wash of currant and cherry mingling with spice and still-resolving, grippy tannin. It’s medium-full bodied with oodles of mouth feel and a drying finish and aftertaste. Pop corks 2017 to 2021. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Guiraud 2011
AOC Sauternes, 1er Cru Classé en 1855 $39.85 375 mL (298943) 13.5% alcohol
Grapes are hand picked in successive triages over many weeks picking only grapes affected by botrytis cinera, a.k.a. noble rot. The blend at Guiraud differs slightly each vintage, but follows their 35 – 40-year-old vine plantings of 65% Sémillon, 35% Sauvignon Blanc. Aromas of orange zest and honeysuckle precede an unctuous, palate-coating river of über-sweet nectar—honey-soaked apricot, peel marmalade and sugared, desiccated fruit. Pour with pan-seared foie gras or sweet fruit desserts. (Vic Harradine)

Feature: Spain

**** drink or cellar
Viña Real ‘Gran Reserva’ 2008
DOCa Rioja $36.95 (280545) 13.5% alcohol
Aromas of wood smoke, earthy notes and dark cherry/berry fruit waft from this mid-weight, Tempranillo-dominant red. Red cherry, passion fruit and cranberry streak over the palate and through the tang-laden finish and aftertaste mingling with toasty oak—this aged 24 months in French and American oak. Pour alongside pasta puttanesca or spiced gourmet sausage. (Vic Harradine)

The Main Release

Specialty Wine

**** drink now Oh Canada!
Rosewood Estates ‘Harvest Gold - Dry Mead’ 2013

Product of Canada Niagara Escarpment $14.95 (346767) 500mL 11.0% alcohol 

This offers very good value and a golden opportunity to try Mead. A lighter-styled, honey-wine offering from Rosewood, this offers up aromas of yellow peach, talcum powder and hints of guava. Bathing the palate with honeyed tones—melon and a salad bowl of tropical fruit, it’s light on its feet with a delicate touch throughout. It finishes with brushstrokes of buckwheat honey and musk melon. (Vic Harradine) 

Champagne

**** drink now
Georges Gardet ‘Cuvée Saint Flavy’ Brut Non-Vintage

AOC Champagne $41.95 (924654) 12.0% alcohol

This has an attractive nose of mineral, floral and heady citrus notes. There’s a lovely attack on the palate with a rush of white grapefruit and green apple flavours infused with spice and mineral nuances. It’s medium in weight and texture and offers a lingering finish that’s zesty and clean. There’s enough oomph for it to be paired with light appetizers and the attractive price, as Champagne goes, allow it to be served as the welcoming wine at any, upscale gathering—including a special evening for two. (Vic Harradine)

Sparkling Wine

**** drink now
Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs Non-Vintage

Carneros $29.95 (925735) 12.5% alcohol

Lovely and intricate aromas of apricot pit, almond, yeast, red berry and citrus tantalize the nose. Peach hued, dry, medium bodied, with a fine persistent mousse and silky texture, this is a fine fresh wine that replays red fruit on the palate, with notes of citrus and toasted nut. A real delight, it would pair well with turkey dinner! (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink now
Charles Duret ‘Brut’ Crémant de Bourgogne Non-Vintage

AOC Burgundy $19.95 (185694) 12.0% alcohol

A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Gamay, this sparkler has bright aromas of orchard fruit, white flowers and citrus. Dry, lively and fresh with a lasting effervescence, it’s medium bodied and minerally with tangy flavours of green apple and citrus. There’s an elusive nuttiness on the persistent, refreshing finish. Good value and a good choice to serve as an aperitif. (Susan Desjardins) 

Ontario: White Wine

***** drink now Oh Canada! Exceptional Value!

2027 Cellars ‘Wismer Vineyard-Fox Croft Block’ Chardonnay 2012 

VQA Twenty Mile Bench $30.00 (421362)13.0% alcohol 

Delicate, alluring aromas of buttered toast, mineral notes and green apple presage a glorious, creamy mouthful of tang-laden flavour with peach, pear and lemon citrus to the fore. It’s medium weight, deftly balanced and stylish, even at this early stage. Flavours persist through the lingering aftertaste, focused and pure. Drinks beautifully now, will improve in bottle—consummate food wine, pour with pan-seared scallops or tuna, roast pork and more. Owner/winemaker Kevin Panagapka adds to his sterling reputation. (Vic Harradine) 

****1/2 drink now Oh Canada!
Angels Gate ‘Mountainview’ Chardonnay 2010 

VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (116384) 13.5% alcohol 

Lifted and lovely aromas of mixed baking spice, orchard fruit and floral notes abound. It’s medium bodied with a textured, persistent river of rich, succulent yellow peach and apple torte linking up with toasty notes and nuances of almonds. There’s complexity, structure and no shortage of charm in this well-paced, well-made gem. (Vic Harradine) 

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada! Exceptional Value!
Coffin Ridge ‘Bone Dry’ Riesling 2014
VQA Ontario $17.00 (232744) 11.5% alcohol
Overlooking Georgian Bay, Coffin Ridge is Grey County’s initial winery and processes primarily hand-planted, hand-harvested, sustainably farmed fruit. This opens with aromas of floral notes, Granny Smith apple and notes of minerality. It streaks across the palate in a blaze of tang with racy lemon-lime and mineral notes—nicely structured and lip-smacking delicious. It finishes with green apple, lemon curd and notions of smoky bits. Give it a go with a baguette and plate of charcuterie. (Vic Harradine)

Ontario: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Henry of Pelham ‘Reserve’ Baco Noir 2012

VQA Ontario $24.95 (461699) 14.0% alcohol

H of P Baco is always a highly anticipated release, especially the ‘Reserve’—this won’t disappoint; it’s brooding, rich and complex with oodles of fruit and spice. Pipe tobacco and piquant spice aromas—black pepper and cinnamon—herald a gusher of tang-laden dark berry fruit and black Bing cherry garnished with baking spice and earthy notes. It’s full bodied, fully textured and good to go now with hearty red meats, grilled or roasted, drinking well now to 2020, perhaps beyond. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now Oh Canada!
Rosewood Estates ‘Select Series’ Pinot Noir 2012

VQA Niagara Escarpment $21.95 (112177) 13.0% alcohol 

A quiet nose of delicate spice, red berry fruit and earthy notes introduces a balanced and beautiful wash of tangy sour cherry and ripe bramble berry interlaced with beetroot and spice. It’s medium bodied with creamy smooth mouth feel, stylish and structured with purity of fruit throughout. It finishes balanced and fruity, dry and refreshing. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Tawse ‘Sketches’ Cabernet/Merlot 2011 

VQA Niagara Peninsula $20.95 (130252) 13.0% alcohol 

Pick up a few bottles of this well-crafted blend of the Cabernets and Merlot to enjoy with barbeques. A beautiful ruby tone, the wine marries ripe black cherries, berries, cassis, sweet spice and a whiff of milk chocolate with fine-grained tannin and lively acidity. It’s dry yet approachable, mid-weight and skillfully balanced, leaving a hint of well-integrated oak on the persistent, fruit-filled finish. (Susan Desjardins)  

California: White Wine

**** drink or cellar
Folie à Deux Chardonnay 2013
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County $21.95 (146951) 13.9% alcohol
This American Viticulture Area, a.k.a. AVA, is well known for cooling fog reducing night temperature 30 to 40° F, allowing for longer hang time while retaining good acidity. Floral, green apple and citrus aromas kick off a river of tropical fruit, lemon chiffon pie and toasty oak flavour. It bathes the palate, medium bodied, nicely textured with a balanced, lengthy finish and aftertaste. Pour with roast chicken or turkey. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Paul Hobbs Chardonnay 2013
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County $54.95 (119073) 14.1% alcohol
Meticulous vineyard management and handling of fruit mark all Paul Hobbs wines. This was hand-harvested at night, whole-cluster pressed, barrel fermented with wild yeast then aged sur lie 12 months in French oak barrel, 47% new and bottled January 2015 unfined and unfiltered. It’s full bodied, fully textured and bursting with flavour. Toasty buttery notes interlace with racy citrus, baking spice and caramel aromas. This replays on the palate garnished by more racy acidity and discernible oak on the lengthy finish—another 6 months in bottle will be handsomely rewarded. (Vic Harradine)

California: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
PlumpJack Winery ‘Adaptation’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Napa Valley $59.95 (353102) 15.2% alcohol
Inky, opaque in the glass, aromas of piquant spice and red berry fruit fill the room. It’s rich and lively on the palate, sporting a medium bodied, satin-smooth textured wave of red currant and black cherry interwoven with cassis, black licorice and earthy notes. It finishes with more of the same, balanced, lengthy and lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Cannonball Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
California $24.95 (291666) 13.8% alcohol
Despite the explosive nature of the name, this is no fruit bomb—it’s structured with depth and balance. Aromas of toasty oak and espresso roast mingle with dark berry fruit. There’s a complex array of dark juicy fruit on the palate with cherry and plum to the fore interlaced with dark bittersweet chocolate and savory bits. There’s good weight and texture and a lingering, tangy aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink or cellar
Frank Family Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Napa Valley $53.95 (246900) 14.5% alcohol
This family-owned/managed winery is ensconced in the historic 1884 Larkmead Winery. Their Reserve Cab Sauv is highly sought after and a 50% price premium to this gem. Dark fruit and baking spice provide segue to a dense, palate-coating river of bramble berry, cassis, espresso roast and black licorice. It’s full bodied and fully textured with a lingering, balanced and beautiful finish. As premium Napa Cab goes, this is quite good value. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
J. Lohr ‘Los Osos’ Merlot 2013

Paso Robles $20.95 (27516) 13.5% alcohol

From a stellar vintage, this was whole-berry fermented with full malolactic conversion, aged 12 months in American oak barrel, 22% new. This Merlot has a 14% splash of Malbec adding to the fruit and long finish. Aromas of peppery notes, espresso roast and red berry fruit open this medium-full bodied, fully textured gem. A juicy, balanced wave of red currant, pie cherry and ripe sweet mulberry meld on the palate and replay on the dry, lip-smacking aftertaste. Pair with slow-roast pork and root veggies. (Vic Harradine)

Oregon: Red Wine

**** drink now
Acrobat Pinot Noir 2013

Oregon $24.95 (421149) 2013

Savoury-tinged aromas of wild berry fruit and red cherry make way for a balanced, tangy river of passion fruit, red currant and cranberry. It’s persistent and purposeful replaying flavour throughout the lip-smacking finish and aftertaste. Light-medium bodied with good mouth feel, it’s lively and smooth drinking well on its own pouring perfectly with grilled smoked duck breast or liver pâté. (Vic Harradine) 

Argentina: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Alamos Syrah 2013
Mendoza $14.95 (183848) 13.5%alcohol
This Syrah is consistently good and very good-value. The vineyards are located at the foothills of the Andes receiving an optimum amount of brilliant sunshine during the day moderated by cool nights. Rich, smooth and fruity, there are luscious, ripe, berry flavours on the palate with soft tannin and slightly peppery finish. If you’re having a crowd, this is a versatile, crowd pleaser with ribs, lamb, burgers, sausages or just about any grilled meat. (Julie Stock)

***1/2 drink or cellar
Altos Las Hormigas ‘Terroir’ Malbec 2012
Mendoza $19.95 (366005) 14.5% alcohol
Heady, earthy aromas start you off and the black berry, currant and Bing cherry flavours aren’t far behind. This is medium-bodied and juicy with a little mint and smoky dried herb notes on the finish. This pours and pairs well with a simple juicy pork chop and grilled veggies. (Julie Stock)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Escorihuela Gascón ‘1884 Estate Grown’ Malbec 2013
Mendoza $16.95 (375444) 14.0% alcohol
It’s generally accepted the first bottle of single-varietal Malbec in Argentina was bottled at this estate in the 1940s. This is 100% Malbec; hand harvested from three distinct hi-altitude plots and aged eight months in 50% French and 50% American oak. Heady aromas of spice box, cola and dark berry fruit abound. It captures the palate with a fruit-forward river of juicy black cherry and bramble berry robed in grilled herbs, piquant spice and delectable red berry tang. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and lengthy, balanced, delicious finish. There’s good structure, purity of fruit and dark bittersweet chocolate persisting through the aftertaste. Pour with grilled steak, rack of lamb or gourmet sausage—exceptional value at this price. (Vic Harradine)

Chile: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Arboleda ‘Single Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

Aconcagua Valley $19.95 (606764) 14.0% alcohol

You can rely on Arboleda for well-crafted, high-value wine. This opaque, purple Cabernet is a good example, offering lifted, layered aromas of dark fruits, herbs, smoke and cedar. Medium-full bodied, it nicely balances fresh texture, firm structure, a subtle earthy character and plush mouth-filling fruit. Attractive notes of cocoa, spice and toast add complexity and panache through the lengthy dry finish. Serve with roast beef and grilled vegetables. (Susan Desjardins)

****1/2 drink or cellar Exceptional Value!
Viña San Estaban ‘In Situ - Reserva’ Carmenère 2012
Aconcagua Valley $14.95 (37952) 14.5% alcohol
This was a Gold-medal winner at the 2014 Concours Mondial de Bruxelles competition. With its origins in Bordeaux, Carmenère has now become Chile’s go-to, red grape. It’s full bodied and rich with loads of blueberry, plum, liquorice on the palate garnished with wisps of menthol. Delicious and easy drinking, it shows soft tannin and finishes on cocoa and spice. This is at a great price point; suggest you try hearty beef stews to match. (Julie Stock)

Australia: Red Wine

****1/2 drink now
Wit’s End ‘Luna’ Shiraz 2013
McLaren Vale $18.95 (9480) 15.0% alcohol
Velvety luscious and smooth, it’s loaded with red rose aromas and blackberry/blueberry flavour. There was a small parcel of Barbera grapes added to the Shiraz boosting colour and acidity. A soft seam of tannin adds depth and it’s slightly peppery with thyme and rosemary on the finish. You’ll love this with grilled lamb chops. This is excellent value and a wonderful addition to your cart. (Julie Stock)

New Zealand: White Wine

**** drink now
Jules Taylor Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Marlborough, South Island $19.95 (224428) 13.0% alcohol
Heady aromas of orange zest, savoury herbs and piquant spice herald a complex wash of green apple, white peach, quince jelly and hints of passion fruit. It’s mid weight with good mouth feel and a lengthy, mouth-watering finish and aftertaste layering on notions of lime and crisp green apple. Pour with olive-oiled arugula topped with crumbled chèvre. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Seresin Chardonnay 2012
Marlborough, South Island $24.95 (19190) 14.0% alcohol
Organic and biodynamic grown, hand-picked, hand-sorted fruit was whole-bunch pressed then wild-yeast fermented and aged 11 months in French oak, 20% new. Gun flint and mineral/saline aromas dominate the nose. It drives over the palate with great sense of purpose, good structure and minimal fruit—tangy acidity and savory herbs interlace with notions of ripe apple and leesy notes. It’s unique and mid weight with a long, crisp and refreshing aftertaste. It should age well, drinking now to 2019. (Vic Harradine)

New Zealand: Red Wine

**** drink now
Spy Valley Pinot Noir 2012

Marlborough, South Island $24.95 (734681) 13.5% alcohol

Wine lovers don’t always think of Marlborough when seeking Pinot Noir… pity. This is a must-try for those who enjoy aromas of barnyard. There are plenty of dried and stewed plums mixed with cherry flavours and savory herbs lingering on the palate. Look for lip-smacking acidity, supple tannin and a garland of spice on the finish. This is an ideal candidate for roast duck. (Julie Stock)

France: White Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Nicolas Potel Montagny 1er Cru 2010
AOC Montagny $28.95 (127431) 13.0% alcohol
Lovely aromas of mixed spice, pit fruit and salinity introduce a medium-bodied nicely textured flow of crisp Granny Smith apple and tangy citrus. It’s straightforward and uncomplicated with good tang on the mid-length aftertaste. Pour alongside grilled or pan-seared fish or seafood. (Vic Harradine)

France: Red Wine

****1/2 drink or cellar
Château Saint-Roch Chimères 2013
AOP Côtes du Roussillon-Villages $19.95 (119354) 15.0% alcohol
Campfire smoke, exotic spice and dark cherry aromas open this delicious, value-packed red blend—60% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10% Carignan. Rich, ripe flavours flow over the palate—bramble berry and cassis—garnished with sprigs of herbs and notes of forest floor. The soft tannin underpinning adds structure while tangy acidity provides balance. It’s mid-plus bodied and creamy smooth persisting through the lingering aftertaste. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 cellar
Perrin ‘Nature’ Côtes du Rhône 2014
AOC Côtes du Rhône $16.95 (948059) 13.5% alcohol
Floral notes, grilled herbs and piquant spice aromas precede a savory-tinged flow of red currant and cranberry interweaving with baking spice and still-resolving tannin. Pop corks in 2017 pouring with spicy pastitsio or spaghetti Bolognese with spicy Italian sausage. (Vic Harradine)

****1/2 drink now Exceptional Value!
Gassier ‘Sables d’Azur’ Rosé 2014
AOC Côtes de Provence $15.95 (33621) 13.0% alcohol
Rose petals and fresh sliced strawberry aromas abound on the nose. A dry, tangy surge of strawberry/rhubarb tart and grilled, sugared grapefruit bathe the palate, balanced, stylish and delicious. This sustainably farmed blend of 34% Grenache, 33% Syrah, 33% Cinsault finishes in a blaze of red grapefruit tang and a mouth-watering aftertaste. Pour with baked Brie marinated in olive oil and garlic, topped with grilled red peppers. (Vic Harradine)

Germany: White Wine

***1/2 drink or cellar
Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier Dom Riesling 2013
Qba Mosel $17.95 (359596) 9.5% alcohol
Floral notes and notions of minerality on the nose, this dishes up a sweet flow of lemon chiffon pie and lime cordial mingling with grilled pineapple on the palate and persisting through the sweet-tinged finish and aftertaste. Pair with fruit flan. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: White Wine

**** drink now
Donnachiara Fiano Di Avellino 2013
DOCG Fiano Di Avellino $17.95 (372482) 13.0% alcohol
The small, thick-skinned berries of the indigenous Fiano grape give little juice; along with the vines propensity for low yields, it’s an expensive proposition for producers—this is 100% Fiano. Yellow peach, mint and nutty aromas—said to originate from nearby ubiquitous hazelnut orchards—are precursor to a lively citrus attack on the palate—lime, lemon, pineapple—supported by tropical fruit and peach skin pith. It’s medium bodied with generous texture and lengthy refreshing finish. Pour with pan-seared freshwater trout or pickerel. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Duca Catemario ‘Collezione Privata’ Pinot Grigio 2014
DOC Collio $14.95 (120782) 12.5% alcohol
This dishes up a mouthful of flavour and, in a wine world awash with watery Pinot Grigio, it delivers a world of value. Floral notes, citrus zest and mixed spice on the nose, it graces the palate with a complex tangy river of sweet-tinged citrus, ginger and nutty notes persisting through the balanced and refreshing finish. Sip on its own or pour with chicken, veal or pork. (Vic Harradine)

Italy: Red Wine

***1/2 drink now
Cavino ‘Grande Reserve’ 2008
PDO Nemea $17.95 (295618) 13.5% alcohol
This aged 100% Agiorgitiko aged gracefully in French oak barrel for 18 months then a further 12 months in bottle before release. Spice cake and dark berry fruit aromas dominate the nose. A medium-bodied, nicely textured flow of red and dark berry fruit adorned with wisps of mocha bathe the palate persisting through the aftertaste. This is good to go now and pours well with meat lasagna. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Cusumano ‘Noà’ 2012
IGT Sicilia $22.95 (109512) 15.0% alcohol
Lively spice, grilled herbs and tar aromas herald a dense, rich, fruit-laden river of palate-coating black currant, ripe mulberry and juicy black raspberry flavour. It’s medium-full bodied with a solid tannin underpinning and a touch rustic on the lengthy aftertaste—a two-hour aeration/decant smooths everything out. Good to go now; pours well with pasta arrabbiata. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Leonardo Chianti Riserva 2011
DOCG Chianti Riserva $19.95 (164707) 13.0% alcohol
Involved aromas of forest floor, dark coffee, cocoa and black berry are precursors to a tangy, lively stream of red currant and pie cherry streaking across the palate mingling with wisps of drying tannin on the finish. This red blend—85% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot and 5% other red grapes—aged ten months in French oak casks. Aerate/decant a couple of hours pouring with your favourite pasta in tomato sauce recipe. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Ruffino ‘Lodola Nuova’ Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano 2011
DOCG Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano $24.95 (332411) 14.0% alcohol
The hand-harvested Prugnolo Gentile grapes, along with a splash or two of international varieties, are pressed and fermented, left on skins for seven days, then aged 18 months in oak. This property has been producing wine since the 15th C. Toasty oak, savory herbs and spice on the nose, it unleashes a rich and structured wash of tangy red currant interlaced with ripe mulberry and cassis. It dishes up a lively, tangy mouth-watering finish. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Tommasi ‘Poggio Al Tufo’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
IGT Maremma Toscana $17.95 (203927) 13.0% alcohol
Charred toast and woodsy aromas open this value-packed gem. It’s medium-plus weight with good structure and purity of fruit—red and black cherry and black currant galore. It’s creamy smooth, nicely balanced and ready to roll now with a long finish that’s lip-smacking good. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Villa Cafaggio Chianti Classico 2011

DOCG Chianti Classico $21.95 (176776) 14.0% alcohol

This is truly classic Chianti, from its subtle aromas of red fruit, delicate spice and earth to the refined, silky texture and outstanding balance. Dry, medium bodied, it offers great harmony, pleasantly warm, ripe, spiced fruit flavours and a dry, lingering finish. It’s elegant and beautifully crafted. Serve with Osso buco. (Susan Desjardins)

**** drink or cellar
Tommasi Graticcio Appassionato 2013
Product of Italy $15.95 (338939) 13.0% alcohol
Heady aromas of spice box and cassis pave the way to a smooth and mellow flow of ripe, fruit flavour—black plum, mulberry and cherry—replaying and persisting through the lingering aftertaste. It has good weight and texture with balance and charm. This was fashioned in the image of Appassimento wine by drying grapes before pressing—the price-quality balance tips in your favour. Pour with osso buco. (Vic Harradine)

Portugal: Red Wine

**** drink or cellar
Herdade Do Sobroso ‘Sobro Red’ 2013
Vinho Regional Alentejano $15.95 (306563) 14.0% alcohol
This red blend jumps from the glass with aromas of red cherry, lively spice and mocha. There’s a medium-bodied, generously textured stream that bathes the palate with pie cherry and black plum compote garnished with dark chocolate and wisps of tar. It’s bistro-styled, straightforward and a bargain at this price. Pour with grilled steak, roast beef or rack of lamb. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink or cellar
Quinta Do Portal 2012
DOC Douro $18.95 (190769) 14.0% alcohol
This is a blend of premium Port grapes—Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa—requiring patience; Port grapes have plenty of tannin. Aromas of dark toast, dark berry fruit and spice cake introduce a firm and focused stream of black currant entwined with pie cherry, baking spice and bittersweet chocolate. For now, this has perceptible tannin—aerate/decant for three hours to ameliorate their effect before serving… or pop corks in 2017 rewardng your patience. (Vic Harradine)

New in LCBO

**** drink or cellar
Chateau Canteloup Médoc 2012

AOC Médoc, France $19.65 (420000) 13.5% alcohol

There’s a world of value in this Bordeaux beauty; aromas of charred toast and exotic incense open the floodgates to a creamy smooth mid-weight river of black currant and black raspberry entwined with dark bittersweet chocolate and bits of tar. This left bank, 55% Merlot/45% Cabernet Sauvignon blend is a bit of an anomaly—left bank wines are usually Cabernet Sauvignon dominant, we’ll mark this ambidextrous. It finishes balanced and lengthy. (Vic Harradine)

***1/2 drink or cellar Oh Canada!
Sprucewood Shores ‘Lady in Red’ 2013
VQA Ontario $14.95 (266486) $14.95 13.0% alcohol
This red blend— 35% Cabernet Franc, 35% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Pinot Noir—won Silver Medal at the recent 2015 All Canadian Wine Championships. Winemaker, Tanya Mitchell, describes it as having, ‘nice nose, good legs, great body’. Über-fruity aromas of fresh-pressed grapes mingle with fennel and wisps or dark fruitcake spice. It’s light on its feet racing over the palate with piquant spice, tangy red currant and passion fruit to the fore. Pour with pasta in tomato sauce, wings, tacos or enchiladas. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now Oh Canada! Exceptional Value!
Sprucewood Shores Riesling 2014
VQA Ontario $13.95 (326249) $14.95 12.0% alcohol
This won Silver Medal at the recent 2015 All Canadian Wine Championships and once you pick up a few bottles and taste, you’ll probably agree. Perfumed aromas of floral notes, peach and citrus herald an off-dry surge of honeyed white nectarine and crisp green apple juxtaposed to a tangy line of lemon curd and lime cordial. The sweet and tang are just the yin and yang required to pour well with spicy Asian cuisine. It also sips well solo. (Vic Harradine)

Cheers! Vic, Susan, Julie