Wolf Blass 'Gold Label' Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
Coonawarra, South Australia $29.95 (589945)

Sweet coconut, mint and cassis aromatics emanate from the generous nose. This a fruit bomb with a touch of elegance. The flavours are predominantly pure, rich, dark fruit while the lengthy and luxurious finish blasts away with more of the same layering on chocolate and coffee notes. It has good structure and fine balance, is not the least bit jammy or over-oaked and would be a proud partner to backstraps of rare grilled lamb from now to 2015. (VH)




Peter Lehmann 'Mentor' 2000
Barossa Valley, South Australia $39.95 (724336)

The iconic 'Baron of the Barossa' still has lots of life in him and his wines. This 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Malbec, 4% Merlot blend is like all Lehmann wines, meticulously balanced, not over-oaked, reasonable alcohol (only 13%) and not at all jammy. Look for herbaceous minty notes overlaid with cassis and licorice on the nose and full flavour profile of ripe, black berry fruit, plus fine, ripe tannins and a fruit-driven finish that is awesome in its strength and length. (VH)



De Bartoli 'Black Noble' Multi-Vintage
Riverina, New South Wales $36.95 (677104) 375 ml

A stunning fortified (17.5%) dessert wine that is unique and irresistible. As the dark brown viscous liquid stains your glass, glorious aromas of treacle, soy sauce and toffee drift from the lifted nose. The flavour profile is more of the same (toffee, mocha and sweet molasses) whilst the unctuous mouth feel is balanced off nicely so not the least bit cloying. Made similar to PX Sherry, and not totally unlike in taste and texture, it is derived from a solera of Semillon dating back to 1972 with an average age of 8 years in your glass. Serve chilled on its own, with chocolate or spiced Xmas cake. An Aussie treasure (VH)



Tyrell's 'Rufus Stone' Shiraz
McLaren Vale, South Australia $19.95 (542100)

This stalwart, still family-owned, Hunter Valley winery has branched out into SA. Look for a bold and super delicious red that has a touch of 5% Malbec, but is all Shiraz (black pepper, spice and smoky cherries) on the aromatic nose. It is full-bodied and gushing with black, ripe fruit flavours and wisely sealed under screw cap to seal them in. The lengthy, well balanced, fruit-driven finish suggests some life (now to 2010) and a pairing with all manner of grilled lamb or pork. (VH)




Parker Coonawarra Estate 'Terra Rossa' Merlot 2001
Coonawarra, South Australia $37.95

Unfortunately, John Parker passed away in 2002 and the winery has subsequently been sold, but not before he produced this medium to full-bodied treasure. It has been richly enhanced by 15% Cabernet Sauvignon as it lifts the nose (minty, spiced black plums, leather and toasty oak) and assists in providing a concentrated flavour profile of dark chocolate, black cherries and plums. New French oak, low yield from near-20 year old vines, egg white fining and a master's touch coalesce in this elegant wine. The lengthy fruit-forward finish portends ageing potential. Drink 2007 to 2012. (VH)



Don Maximiano "Founder's Reserve" 2000
Aconcagua Valley, Chile $69.00

The latest Don Max is from the cooler 2000 vintage and shows a touch more complexity and a little restraint on the fruit. But there's no change in the quality that makes this a perennial favourite. This is one big Cabernet, with luxurious texture and astonishing complexity. The flavours swirl in intertwining layers, as concentrated dark tree and berry fruit vie for attention with notes of spice, black pepper, coffee, herbs, and chocolate. No surprise that this is from low-yield vines and hand-sorted grapes. The 18 months in new French barrels is handled so well that it adds to the complexity, texture, and fine tannic structure, without overlaying the fruit. You can drink this now (it'll be six years old by the time it's offered) with red meat, or stash it away for another five to ten years. (RP)



Rockford Wines 'Basket Press' Shiraz 2001
South Australia $74.95 (736488)

Brilliant winemaker Chris Ringland uses gently-pressed grapes from the Barossa and close-by Eden Valley to fashion this opulent red. He also makes minuscule amounts of wine under his own label, garnering 100 points from Parker, but this is as close as you will get to that. Eucalyptus and spicy, black peppered cassis aromatics form the generous nose. The flavour profile (sweet Bing cherry and ripe bramble berry) are gorgeously wrapped around ripe tannins that fashion a supple texture. The luxuriously lengthy finish is powered by gobs of fruit and a cleansing zest that provides interest and balance. (VH)



DeBortoli Noble One 2003
New South Wales $28.00/375ml

This is the latest vintage of a popular entry in Vintages and Australia's best-known dessert wine. Made from botrytis-affected Semillon from the extra dry 2002-2003 growing season, this has pungent super-ripe fruit (peach, apricot tart, kumquat). It's quite viscous, but has just enough acidity to keep it on this side of cloying. Drink it now with rich fruit-filled desserts or with baklava or cellar up to ten years. (RP)