****1/2 cellar
Rust En Vrede Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
WO Stellenbosch, South Africa $24.95 (921767) 14.5% alcohol
This is rich and luscious with excellent structure and a long life ahead of it. Aromas of cedar, eucalyptus, graphite and black currant segue a focused stream of mouth-watering, palate-coating cassis, briary berry and spice mingling with black licorice and espresso roast. It’s mid-full weight with good mouth feel and a lengthy finish of chocolate, cherry and still-resolving tannin. Six clones of Cab Sauvignon were fermented and aged separately for 18 months in French oak, one-third new, then blended, bottled and held an additional nine months before release. Enough tannin here to warrant a three-hour decant
or three additional years in the cellar. (Vic Harradine)

**** drink now
Domaine J. Laurens ‘le Moulin’ Blanquette de Limoux Brut Non-vintage
AOC Blanquette de Limoux, France $16.95 (180323) $16.95 12.0% alcohol
This sparkling wine does just that, dishing up a nose of yeasty notes, citrus and peach before unleashing a profusion of glorious bubbles riding a wave of flavour—succulent white peach, racy lemon yoghurt and zesty pineapple. The crisp, refreshing aftertaste makes its mark as this pours well as an aperitif or alongside roast fowl or seafood. It has the oomph and charm to handle both. (Vic Harradine)