California

****1/2 drink or cellar
Sterling Vineyards Napa Valley Merlot 2002
Napa Valley $28.95 330241
There are two major styles of New World Merlot. There's the dull, generic-red-wine style I'm surprised hasn't generated a Merlot equivalent to Anything But Chardonnay (I suppose it doesn't work because the military have already grabbed ABM as an acronym). Then there's a intensely-flavoured, complex, spicy style that verges toward Carmenère. This is one of those. It's quite delicious and succeeds on all fronts: flavour, balance, complexity, interest and finish. Great stuff for a meal of richly-flavoured red meat. (RP)

**** drink or cellar
Cline Syrah 2002
California $17.95 (733758) Vintages Essential
This is a very well-made New World Syrah that draws on two warm California regions (Lodi and Contra Costa County) and one cool climate (Sonoma County). It makes for a quite typical Syrah with good cherry and ripe strawberry flavours with spicy and black pepper notes. Medium-bodied with good balance and a good spicy finish, this is a natural for well-seasoned grilled lamb. (RP)

France

**** drink or cellar
Christian Moueix Pomerol 2000
Pomerol, Bordeaux $31.95 (903013)
From the highly-reputed 2000 vintage comes this well-priced, very good value Pomerol from the Christian Moueix portfolio. Merlot-dominant, it shows good flavour typicity, with plum and berry to the fore, with good complexity in the spicy notes. It's all elegance on the texture, silky smooth with ripe tannins, and a long spicy fruit finish. Well made, and it's a good match for grilled game or lamb. (RP)