Wolf Blass Shiraz 2001
South Australia $24.95 (348540)
Eucalyptus and black currant aromas gush from the glass. There are gobs
of rich black cherries, tar and peppery plums on the palate plus good
grip from ripe, but perceptible tannins. Yes, its a hedonistic fruit
explosion, but it also displays some elegance, good structure and
wonderful balance. No wild boar on hand? Rack of lamb or grilled pepper
steak should work well. (VH/RP)
Castello di Querceto Chianti Classico Reserva 1999
DOCG Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy $32.95 (650754)
Aromatics suggestive of blueberries, currants and leather provide a
smooth entry into the deep rich flavours of cassis laced with black
pepper. The structure is somewhat taut and brisk suggesting it would
marry extremely well with pasta and a bolognaise sauce. Well priced.
(VH)
Dufouleur Père et Fils Clos du Chapitre Fixin 1er Cru 2000
AOC Fixin 1er Cru, Burgundy, France $57.95 (641746)
Fixin (pronounced fee-sung) is a small commune, in the northern half
of Burgundys famed Côte de Nuits, that produces well-structured,
well-focused Pinot Noirs. This one is very elegant, with characteristic
ripe cherry and plum flavours with light spice, and earthy/gamey notes.
The fruit forms a pure core thats lifted by good acidity, the tannins
are light and fine, and the finish is good. This is for drinking now
(with duck breast, I think) and over the next three or four years. (RP)
Eos Estate The French Connection 2001
Paso Robles, California $23.95 (642256)
A lovely, elegant blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (52%), Cabernet Franc
(30%) and Merlot (18%), which is probably the French connection. (You
cant mention the word Bordeaux now.). Its full-on complex dark
fruit, with a generous texture, drying tannins, and a long finish. Very
well made and a good partner for nothing less than rich red meat
dishes. (RP)
Henry of Pelham Unfiltered Pinot Noir 2002
VQA Niagara Peninsula $19.95 (28391)
Another elegant red from this highly-regarded Niagara winery. This
Pinot Noir has lovely flavours of sweet, ripe cherries, set of with
spicy, earthy notes. Its medium bodied and the fruit is lifted by good
acidity. Well-made and well-priced, this calls out for flavourful food,
and goes very well with medium-rare grilled lamb. (RP)
Ironstone Leaping Horse Vineyards Chardonnay 2003
Lodi, California $13.05 (909796)
Growers for almost 50 years and owning 5000 acres in Lodi, puts these
folks at the top of the heap in this AVA. Intriguing aromatics of apple
compote, poached pear and vanilla segue into huge Granny Smith apple
and peel marmalade flavours. A likeable medium-bodied white with a
scrumptious finish that is well made, well balanced and well
incredible value. (VH)
Ironstone Leaping Horse Vineyards Merlot 2002
Lodi, California $13.05 (909812)
A robust nose of raspberry jam and black plums leads the way to a
concentrated fruit bomb of flavours including cassis, mocha and
licorice. This crowd pleaser has silky tannins and a lengthy warm
finish reminiscent of dark spiced fruit cake. Is alluring enough to sip
on its own, yet has enough character to match spiced and herbed red
meat. Superb value. (VH/RP)
Jackson-Triggs Proprietors Grand Reserve 2001
VQA Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (587691)
A classy sparkling wine displaying quite forward aromatics of brioche
and apple dumpling underpinned by leesy nuances. Strong attack of
mousse characterized by lemon zest and bracing acidity. Elegant and
extremely well balanced, this Méthode Classique (made in the manner of
Champagne ) is vinified using Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes. (VH)
Jacuzzi Family Vineyard Merlot 2002
Los Carneros, California $36.95 (958819)
A delicious Merlot with concentrated, dense dark fruit (crushed berries
and plum to the fore) with complex notes of spice, pepper, coffee and
chocolate. Its full bodied, generous, and has a long, long finish.
Pair this with hefty food, like grilled rack of lamb and a berry salsa.
(RP)
Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages 2003
AOC Beaujolais-Villages, France $15.95 (365924)
Gamay at its best in a Beaujolais with breeding. Red currant, cranberry
and grapey aromatics set up this light-to-medium-bodied, well
structured red. From select vineyards, the fruit yields lovely red
currant and cranberry flavours plus good acidity, making it a natural
for fowl with cranberry sauce. Serve slightly chilled. (VH)
Matakana Estate Pinot Gris 2003
Auckland, New Zealand $23.95 (904243)
One of the foremost wineries in the emerging region north of Auckland,
Matakana Estate has quickly established a reputation for doing things
right. This is a luscious, mouth-filling Pinot Gris, with pungent peach
and apricot flavours in elegant equilibrium with the acidity. Its
screwcap-sealed for freshness. Im always fascinated by the detailed
food-pairings on Matakanas back labels. This one suggests Golden Bay
scallops wrapped in prosciutto, lightly sautéed and served on a bed of
lime-scented cous-cous or a salmon and crayfish terrine. Either sounds
good to me. (RP)
Perrin & Fils Rasteau 2002
AOC Rasteau, Côtes du Rhône Villages, France $16.95 (976845)
An extremely perfumed nose of, well... perfume. This is a guaranteed
crowd pleaser from the musky, floral nose through to the lengthy
luxuriating finish of plums with a good dollop of balancing acidity. It
offers a generous helping of full fruit flavours (raspberry jam, black
cherries and plums) in a beautifully textured delivery. Great to quaff
or try with Shepherds Pie. Well priced. (VH)
Cesar Pisano RPF Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
Coastal Region, Uruguay $24.95 (642231)
Is Uruguay the next Chile for wine lovers? With fruit sourced near
Montevideo, this red is quite aromatic and typicity abounds with cassis
and mint wafting from the glass. The palate is quite warm and sweet,
but there is considerable structure along with perceptible, smooth,
ripe tannins. Its about what youd pay for a decent California Cab and
although it is a nuance or two behind in overall delivery, it is a
unique experience and worth every penny. (VH)
Rocca delle Macie Riserva di Fizzano Chianti Classico 1998
DOCG Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy $42.95 (650564)
You will have to wait a bit for this one as the firm, dusty tannins
will take time to smooth out. The bramble-fruit lifted nose includes
tar and leather. There is a hint of the future is in this hugely
textured fruit friendly bruiser. The long rustic finish is a great
sign. Fairly pricey, but priced fairly. (VH)
Bodega Salentein Malbec 2002
Alto Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina $16.95 (640854)
Smoke and oak are the first aromas up before the cherries and red
licorice kick in. Originally from Bordeaux, Malbec has certainly found
its niche in Argentina . This medium-bodied offering has no angles or
corners with its smooth, creamy texture, soft pit fruit flavours and
silky finish. This fruity red would be a wonderful entry point for a
novice Malbec imbiber. (VH)