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Château des Charmes Gamay Noir ‘Droit’ 2017
VQA St. David’s Bench $19.95 (346742) 13.7% alcohol
This gamay noir ‘droit’ is from the first vinifera vine born in Canada about 40 years ago. This is quite different from a Beaujolais-styled red with a lovely mix of dark and red fruit aromas, a whisper of dry rose petal, sweet smoke and a hint of spice, all without any oak contact. A palate-bathing fresh and smooth wash of dark cherry and blackberry flavours meet mushroom, kirsch notes and a melange of dry herb to frame the savoury dry medium-long finish. This intriguing red is worth every penny for its singular story and enjoyment when paired with roast duck or mushroom risotto. (Louise Boutin)